The better to insulate the garage inside. Proper insulation of the garage with your own hands. Insulation of garage walls from the outside

Preservation of heat is a prerequisite for any room that will be operated in the winter season. This is especially true for garage buildings that are open to "all winds" and, for the most part, are not suitable for installation. central heating. The adaptation of the garage to winter conditions is carried out by means of internal or external wall insulation, which allows you to keep the positive temperature indoors even in severe frosts.

Where to insulate: inside or outside?

To keep the heat inside the garage, it is necessary to create a screen of insulating material that will not let the cold in from the outside and keep the internal heat. The heat-insulating layer can be located both outside the building and inside - the principle of heat preservation is the same in both cases, however, each of the options has its own nuances that should be taken into account. External thermal insulation is more effective, as it does not allow cold to reach the walls and does not affect inner part garage. But at the same time, this method of insulation is more expensive and time-consuming - the creation of a masking facade that will hide the insulation will be expensive.

Internal insulation reduces the internal area of ​​​​the garage by the thickness of the insulation material, but at the same time it is several times cheaper and does not require special skills for self-assembly. If your main goal is to directly prepare the garage for the cold and you are not planning large-scale construction works, then this method of insulation will be the best solution.

Material selection

As a heater, almost any material with a porous or fibrous structure can be used - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, organic insulation, etc. In general, for the insulation of the garage, it is appropriate to use any of the above items, if you are guided by the principle "it will not get worse." However, if you have a choice, it is better to familiarize yourself with all the advantages and disadvantages various kinds insulation to choose the most suitable for specific situation Name.

Polyfoam - universal insulation for the garage

• Styrofoam. Foam boards are characterized by low cost - this is the cheapest insulation material on the domestic market. Of the advantages of this material, an insignificant mass, moisture resistance and ease of processing stand out. The obvious disadvantages include a high fire hazard and a fragile structure.
• Styrofoam. It has all the technical advantages of polystyrene, but at the same time it is less combustible and more durable material. The price of the insulation is slightly higher than the foam analogue, but it does not go beyond the permissible limits.
• Mineral, basalt wool. A more perfect analogue of glass wool popular in the Soviet Union. Absolutely non-flammable material. The critical disadvantage of mineral wool is the fibrous structure, which absorbs water like a sponge - at high humidity, the insulation gets wet, losing its thermal insulation properties and contributing to the development of the fungus.
• Organic heater. An analogue of mineral wool on an organic basis (linen, cotton, etc.) is an environmentally friendly material of natural origin. Unlike mineral wool, organic insulation is combustible.

Mineral wool is popular, but not reliable in damp

The most suitable material for garage insulation, regardless of the material from which it is made, is a foam or polystyrene foam insulation, due to ease of installation, moisture resistance and reasonable price. Fibrous insulation is less preferred because of its structure, since it is far from always possible to maintain an optimal level of humidity in an unheated room. However, this does not mean that the use of cotton materials is categorically not recommended - their use is also appropriate, although not so preferable.

Important! If there is a stove, heater or other sources of heat in the garage, then the area of ​​\u200b\u200btheir location must be insulated with mineral wool to prevent fire and the release of toxins due to excessive heat.

Material calculation

The calculation of the material is carried out by calculating the quadrature of the insulated area - the length of the wall is multiplied by its height. Thus, you will get the number of square meters that need to be insulated. The thickness of the insulation is directly proportional to its thermal insulation data.

Since the thermal insulation layer needs an outer shell, in addition to insulation, it is also necessary to purchase consumable for the assembly and sheathing of the frame. To form the frame, it is better to use metal profiles that are not afraid of moisture and are quite easy to install. The calculation of the footage of the supporting profile is carried out taking into account the fact that the distance between the supporting elements of the frame should not exceed 50-60 cm. It is also necessary to take into account the presence of intermediate fasteners. The footage of the guides is equal to the perimeter of the room multiplied by 2.

For sheathing the frame, it is best to use moisture-resistant drywall, which includes moisture-repellent impregnation and antifungal additives - an inexpensive, fire-resistant and easy-to-process material. The calculation of the required number of sheets is carried out in the same way as in the case of insulation material.

Important! Focusing on the data obtained, one should be aware of possible unforeseen situations and purchase material with a small margin, which on average is about 10-15% of the initial amount.

Insulation of the walls in the garage from the inside

Frame installation

Installation of the frame is necessary for the subsequent installation of decorative trim, which will hide the insulation from prying eyes. During the installation process, you will need the following tools:

• Hammer drill;
• Screwdriver;
• Scissors for metal;
• Level;

Ready frame for drywall

All fasteners in the wall are pre-drilled with a perforator drill, then dowel-screws are inserted into the holes, which are screwed with a screwdriver. The metal profile is easily cut with scissors for metal, in almost any position. The frame in the garage is assembled as follows:

• First of all, guides are mounted on the ceiling and floor, into which the carrier profile will be inserted. They should be parallel to each other - first, the guide is mounted on the ceiling, and then, using a level or plumb line, the guide on the floor is adjusted. The indentation from the wall should allow the insulation to be placed so that it does not “push” the skin. A sealing tape must be placed between the base and the guide, which will absorb small irregularities and create a tighter connection.

Important! When fastening the profile, it is necessary to take into account the differences in the surface - it should not "lead" from excessive bending. Deep drops, especially if a dowel is clogged in them, must be smoothed out with stands, and the protruding parts must be removed.

• Before installing the supporting profiles, supporting brackets-suspensions are mounted on the wall, which stiffen the entire structure. The bracket is a metal plate with perforated edges - the middle is mounted to the wall, and the edges are bent to form a "P" shaped figure into which the supporting profile will be inserted. Suspensions are located along a strictly vertical line, which is measured by means of a plumb line or level. The step between the vertical lines can be 60, 40 or 30 cm - the larger the step, the weaker the structure.

Important! If necessary, you can choose the step between the guides arbitrarily, within the mentioned values, however, in this case, you will have to constantly adjust the drywall sheets, since their standard width is 140 cm.

• On suspensions, carrier profiles are inserted into the guides. Fixing in guides and suspensions is carried out by means of a screwdriver and small screws for metal. The common plane is adjusted by means of a rule, or along a fishing line stretched between the extreme profiles.
• Between the carriers, with a similar pitch, transverse frame elements are installed, which are made of a profile - they are necessary to strengthen the structure. As a fixing connection, you can use single-level “crab” connectors or simply cut off the sides of the profile, forming a tongue that is attached directly to the surface of the supporting profile.

Attaching the profile to the hanger

Waterproofing

Fibrous insulation is very sensitive to moisture - in this case, waterproofing is indispensable. To avoid getting the cotton wool wet, it is necessary to create an airtight, waterproof layer between the wall and the insulation. For this purpose, a membrane film or any other flexible waterproof material is used. After the frame is fully assembled, it is covered with waterproofing material. The film should not be stretched, it should lie freely, fastening to the profile is carried out by means of brackets. The main thing is to create an airtight barrier for condensate - the overlap between the edges of the strips should be at least 10 cm. The junction is glued with adhesive tape.

Thinking about the need for waterproofing, one should not forget that its main function is to protect the insulation from a small amount of moisture that can seep from the outside. It is insurance against unforeseen situations, and not a panacea - if there is increased humidity in the garage from the side of the walls, it is necessary to carry out comprehensive work on external waterproofing. Internal waterproofing in this case will be a temporary and short-lived solution to the problem.

Insulation installation

Wall insulation with foam

Before proceeding with the insulation, the walls must be cleaned of strongly protruding elements: fittings, metal fasteners, etc. If there are through cracks in the wall, then they must be covered with concrete or plaster mortar(sand 1:2 cement based on the mass of the components) to remove drafts.

The installation process of the insulation largely depends on the structure of the material - polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam with a block form factor can be mounted with glue, while mineral wool is fixed only with the help of self-tapping dowels. Wall insulation with polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene is carried out in the following order:

• The walls are cleaned of dust and primed with a special composition to improve adhesion (degree of "stickiness"). After the primer is completely dry, you can proceed directly to the installation of insulation.
• The insulation is mounted from the bottom up, the sheets must be cut exactly under the opening between the supporting profiles. The adhesive composition is applied to the surface of the insulation using a calibration spatula, after which the block is pressed against the wall. Since the material is very light, there is no need to additionally press or fix the block until the adhesive is completely cured.
• After the glue has set, the blocks can be additionally fixed with self-tapping dowels with wide plastic caps or bolts if the garage is assembled from sheet iron.

Installation of mineral wool or its varieties is carried out by means of self-tapping dowels with wide plastic caps, which fix the block in five places - in the corners and in the center. The warming process is carried out as follows:

• Before installation, in the lower part of the wall, it is necessary to install a profile or rail so that the wool does not touch the floor and does not absorb moisture.
• The insulation is cut so that the width of the strips exceeds the width of the opening between the supporting profiles by 1–2 cm.
• The mats are driven into the openings between the profiles, there should not be any gaps or voids. The insulation is fixed with dowel-screws with plastic caps or bolts, if the garage is made of sheet iron.

In this case, a design is meant in which the profile is pressed tightly or very close to the wall. If the distance between the profile and the wall is large enough, then a solid heat-insulating coating is formed, in which recesses are cut out for fastening the frame.

Sheathing the finished frame with drywall

Drywall sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws 25 mm long. The sheets must be positioned so that the edge falls exactly in the middle of the carrier profile.. The distance between the screws should not exceed 20 cm, while the hats must be sunk into the surface by about 1 mm. First of all, whole sheets are mounted, then inserts. Drywall cutting is carried out using a clerical knife - the sheet is cut deeply on one side, and then simply breaks in the opposite direction from the cut.

Related videos

Do-it-yourself gate insulation

Styrofoam door insulation

The iron gates of the garage let in not only your car, but also the cold outside - the metal instantly freezes through and does not protect against frost. To insulate the gate from the inside, it is necessary to assemble a frame for sheathing. It is most convenient to use wood as a material - a frame is assembled from a bar, reinforced with intermediate inserts. The beam is attached to the gate by means of metal screws.

Wooden frame assembly

Insulation sheets should preferably be glued to the door surface to avoid condensation on the metal surface. In connection with this circumstance, the use of foam or expanded polystyrene is more preferable. After installing the insulation, the frame is sheathed with plywood, tin, etc. In the event that the profile of the gate implies the presence of an internal cavity sufficient for installing a heater, then you can do without installing a frame. Since the sheet insulation has a low weight, if desired, you can simply glue the sheets to the gate without assembling the frame and sheathing. In this case, you will have to be more careful when operating the gate, since unprotected thermal insulation will be easily damaged by careless action.

ceiling queue

Laying insulation on the ceiling of the garage

An uninsulated ceiling is the biggest gap in the thermal insulation of a room. Unlike walls, it is more expedient to insulate the ceiling from the side of the attic - the insulation will be more effective and there is no need to form a decorative sheathing that “eats up” usable space and finances. As a heater, it is better to use polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene, although mineral wool in this case will also be quite appropriate.

The external insulation of the garage is not particularly difficult - waterproofing is laid on the surface of the attic and the insulation sheets are simply laid without cracks and voids. The thickness of the insulation material must be at least 10 cm. In this case, it is important to create a dense heat-insulating layer, without the so-called cold bridges - mounting foam is used to fill joints or hard-to-reach places.

Floor

Expanded clay for floor insulation in the garage

If the floor is formed from monolithic concrete, it also intensively "sucks" the heat from the room. The only rational solution, in this case, is to fill in the heat-insulating material (expanded clay) and form a new concrete screed. Alternative methods of insulation in this case are inappropriate, since the coating must support the weight of the car. Ideally, the thermal insulation of the floor should be carried out at the time of the construction of the building, since in any other case it will either have to break the old coating or form thermal insulation on top of it, which implies raising the floor by 15 - 20 cm.

If the garage has already been built, then you will have to proceed from the already existing circumstances - the best option would be to completely break concrete screed to free up enough space for insulation backfill. However, if the height of the room allows you to raise the floor by 15 cm or more, then you can do without dismantling the old coating. Expanded clay, if possible, it is better to acquire heterogeneous (fine and medium) or medium fractions in order to reduce the likelihood of voids. To form a screed, you will need cement and sand. The order of work is as follows:

• A site is being prepared for filling the insulation. The insulation layer should be at least 10 cm thick, optimally about 20-30 cm. You should also take into account the layer of concrete screed, which is formed at least 5 cm thick. The site should be as flat as possible so that the backfill is uniform.
• A layer of waterproofing is laid on the ground or the old coating so that the expanded clay granules do not absorb moisture. For this purpose, you can use various materials: from roofing material to dense polyethylene film.
• Insulation is poured onto the waterproofing in an even layer. To evenly distribute expanded clay, the surface is leveled with a rule or a long level.
• To strengthen the insulation granules, a fill is applied cement mortar- cement is mixed with water to a homogeneous substance, which should not be too liquid or thick. The resulting mixture is poured over the top layer of expanded clay so that the cement penetrates into the voids between the granules.
• After the cement mixture is completely dry, the concrete screed is poured. The concrete mortar consists of cement and sand, in a ratio of 60/40 based on the mass of the components. In the manufacture of concrete mortar, it is easiest to focus on the color of the mixture, which should have a clear cement shade. A rule is used to level the flooded area. The surface of the screed is smoothed with a spatula or small.

Important! In this case, Portland cement M400 is meant - the lower the grade, the more cement will be required and vice versa. But at the same time, one should not forget that the principle “the more the better” is inappropriate in this case, since an excess of cement will disrupt the structure of the screed.

Alignment of expanded clay by the rule

Since the area of ​​​​the garage is basically not large, it is quite possible to form a screed "by eye". But if you want to get a perfectly flat surface, then you need to install beacons. As beacons, you can use a profile, pipes and any other material with a smooth edge. Beacons are set by means of a level, thus limiting marks are created that indicate the level of a perfectly flat plane.

Installing beacons is quite simple - along the edges of the room, by means of a hydraulic level, extreme profiles are installed, then a fishing line is pulled between them, which determines the level of intermediate elements. The main thing is to firmly fix the beacons so that no displacement occurs during pouring. Concrete mortar with a small addition of alabaster is best suited for this purpose. Lighthouses need to be fixed pointwise, and not along the entire length.

Important! The addition of alabaster to the concrete mortar significantly reduces the period of its solidification - the count can go up to tens of seconds. Should not be diluted too much a large number of, otherwise you will not physically have time to work it out.

Cellar

If there is a cellar in the garage, then its insulation is also a prerequisite for creating good thermal insulation of the room. Installation of insulation in this case is carried out in the same way as in the case of the main room, with the difference that the cellar ceiling is insulated from the inside.

Ceiling insulation procedure:

The floor in the cellar is insulated in accordance with the same recommendations as for floor insulation in the garage. After completion of work in the cellar, the level of humidity will rise greatly, so it is necessary to consider a quality ventilation system.

Garage insulation allows you to keep the positive temperature in the room without central heating. The only thing to remember is that you should not make the room completely airtight in order to prevent an increase in humidity. The garage must have ventilation to remove moisture from melted snow, rain and other things that the car will bring with it during bad weather.

Any motorist knows that garage insulation is not a whim, but a real necessity. If you value your iron horse, then you definitely cannot do without such a procedure. But our world is so arranged that there is not always enough money for expensive heaters, not to mention hiring professionals. This article is written for those ordinary motorists who, for a number of reasons, are forced to install inexpensive garage insulation from the inside with their own hands, and in it I will talk about 3 available insulation options and those materials that are suitable for this.

The owners choose insulation from the inside according to different reasons. For example, in a garage cooperative, people simply have no other choice, the boxes are lined up in a united front, and there are not always good neighbors with warm garages on the sides.

It is practically impossible to equip metal structures from the outside. And finally, the most banal reason, internal insulation is simply cheaper. In addition, it is simply physically impossible to insulate the roof and floor from the outside.

What materials to choose from

Naturally, before you pick up a tool and get to work, you still need to decide how to insulate the house for your car. After all, each material has its own subtleties of installation, and most importantly, the cost of all these materials is different.

It is no secret that each person has his own concept of inexpensive, for one hundred thousand is not money, but for another a dozen for happiness. Therefore, I will briefly go through the entire range, and you already decide.

A short list of thermal insulation materials used for garage insulation
Thermal insulation material	General characteristics
Dense mineral wool boards	Relatively inexpensive material, which has enviable thermal conductivity parameters and excellent vapor permeability. For garages, cotton slabs are suitable for their absolute fire safety. Although cotton slabs are capable of gaining moisture, this indicator is not so high for them.
Glass wool and other types of mineral-based soft mats	In terms of cost, soft mats are one of the most affordable heaters. But that's where all its pluses end. Although on the network you will find a lot of photo and video material, where the merits of such mats are described in colors. I will tell you briefly, such insulation cannot be installed in a garage. These mats quickly gain moisture and after that they are no longer restored, after 2-3 years they will look like an old flannelette blanket, so think about whether you need such savings.
Styrofoam	I am deeply convinced that among inexpensive heaters, foam boards this is the best option, especially for the garage. The price for it is more than affordable, it does not pass or absorb water. Relying on personal experience, I can assure you that mounting the foam with your own hands is the easiest. Plus, this material is suitable for both block and metal structures.
Extruded polystyrene foam or "Penoplex"	Extruded polystyrene foam is made from the same raw material as the foam. But these plates are much stronger, more stable and durable. In almost all characteristics, extruded polystyrene foam and Penoplex, as one of the representatives of this line, are many times ahead of the old foam plastic. Only one thing is bad, such material will cost at least 2 times more expensive than polystyrene.
Soft roll insulation foil coated	As a rule, polyethylene foam, better known as penofol, is taken as the basis here. The foil can be applied to one or both sides of such a "quilt". On average, the thickness of the canvas ranges from 3 - 4 to 20 mm. The material is good, but I'll tell you honestly, as an independent insulation, in our climate it is not very suitable, only as an addition.
Warm plaster	Varieties warm plaster several, but the principle of arrangement is the same everywhere. Some loose porous material, for example, expanded clay sand, perlite or foam balls, is kneaded in the solution as the main filler and the walls are plastered with this solution. Such insulation is not expensive, but one cannot do without the skills of a plasterer, so not everyone is able to do it with their own hands.
Expanded clay	Expanded clay is porous clay balls obtained by firing special types of clay. The price of such a heater is small, but in the garage it can only be used to warm the floor.
Sawdust	This insulating material can be safely called practically free. For garage work, two options for using sawdust are suitable. These are sawdust-based cement boards and the so-called sawdust concrete. I will dwell on the production technology and installation in more detail later.
Penoizol	If you understand chemical composition, then penoizol is actually a liquid foam. Since the material is liquid, it is easier to work with it, but such insulation will cost several times more than styrofoam.
polyurethane foam	I deliberately left polyurethane foam for "dessert". The fact is that in our case it is less suitable than the others. Not only is this liquid insulation expensive in itself, so you still have to hire specialists for application. It is unrealistic to manage here on your own, you need expensive special equipment.

If we analyze all the above options for compliance with price / quality / ease of arrangement, then foam plastic is in the lead, followed by mineral wool slabs and materials made from sawdust close this honorary trio.

As if out of competition, we have expanded clay, among inexpensive heaters it is best suited for arranging the floor.

We decided on the top three leaders, and since our polystyrene turned out to be almost a universal insulation, then I will start the story of how to insulate a garage with my own hands using the foam plastic as an example.

Option number 1: polystyrene as a universal material for garage insulation

Warming the garage from the inside with your own hands can be conditionally divided into 4 stages. You will need to insulate the floor, walls, roof and garage doors, while the sequence of actions of great importance does not have.

Styrofoam insulation for garage walls

Since the walls of the garage have the largest quadrature, it means that they need to pay more attention.

There is little nuance, the arrangement of block and metal structures is different, and so that there is no mess in my head, I will talk about each technique separately and we will start with metal garages.

Styrofoam boards are classified by density. Not only strength, but also price directly depends on it. So, the cheapest foam plastic has a density of 15kg / m³, but it is not suitable for insulation. Remember, you need PSB-S25, it has a density of 25kg / m³. You can take and denser, but it will cost more.

• When insulating the walls of garages welded from sheet metal, it is easiest to put foam plates on glue. As an adhesive, you can use 2 options, the foam is equally well taken on "Liquid Nails" and on mounting foam;
• Personally, I prefer to work with mounting foam. Firstly, it is applied faster, and secondly, in any case, buy foam, since gaps are blown out with it. And in order not to spend money on glue and foam, I glue the foam plastic with mounting foam;
• smooth before gluing sheet metal need to prepare. To do this, the iron is first cleaned. Ideally, you need to strip to bare, shiny metal, but if the old one is holding up well, then you should not be too zealous. You can clean metal with large emery, a manual brush for metal, as well as using a nozzle with a cord brush on an electric drill or grinder. It’s easier for me to work with a nozzle, it’s inexpensive and it takes no more than half an hour for each wall;

• When the walls are cleaned, you will need to dust them off and degrease the metal. You can degrease with any alcohol-containing liquid, as well as kerosene or acetone;
• By the way, if you are dealing with a garage assembled from a profiled sheet, then you don’t need to clean anything there. The profiled sheet can be immediately degreased and pasted over with foam;

• Next, apply an arbitrary pattern of glue or foam to one of the sides of the foam and glue the plate to the wall. You can start from any corner you like, I usually start to the left of the gate and go clockwise;
• The slabs are glued like brickwork, with a shift between the rows. The process of gluing with liquid nails or mounting foam has its own nuances. So liquid nails need to be smeared on a sheet, then attach the foam to the metal, immediately tear off and set aside for about 5 - 7 minutes. Only after that the sheet can be glued and it will take well, otherwise it will “float”;

• Mounting foam has a different technique. As you know, foam after application to any surface begins to expand. Therefore, when you stick foam plastic on it, the sheet itself will need to be pressed against the wall every 10 to 15 minutes, the expansion process lasts about an hour;
• When the walls are pasted over, the gaps between the sheets or any other gaps are blown out with mounting foam, and after it dries, the excess is cut off;
• In principle, this could be the end. But I recommend additionally pasting the walls with foil foam or some other similar blanket;

• The fact is that in our garages there is an acute issue of a shortage of usable space. And where foam plastic with a thickness of 100 mm is required, plates of 50 mm can be glued and covered with foil foam. Accordingly, where the project is supposed to mount a 50 mm foam, you can get by with thirty millimeters. Plus, walls covered with soft foil look much more elegant than bare foam sheets, from the slots of which polyurethane foam peeks out.

The walls of block garages can also be pasted over with foam, but this technology is more used for insulation from the outside, since the insulation is additionally plastered. And from the inside in block structures, the foam is mounted under the crate.

Walls pasted over with foam, and even covered with foil foam, are inexpensive and very effective. But every motorist knows that in a decent garage there should be a lot of shelves, hooks and other attachments. And in order, figuratively speaking, to drive a nail into the wall, it must be strong and one cannot do without the above-mentioned crate.

• The inner crate is best made from bars. The thickness of the bar is selected according to the thickness of the insulation. Block walls are not metal, they already have a certain insulating ability, therefore, almost everywhere up to the northern regions, foam plastic 50 mm thick is used here. Under the crate for foam, I always take a bar of 50x50 mm;
• The direction of laying the crate depends on the type of finishing cladding. If this is some kind of rack finish, for example, lining or plastic panels, then the crate is installed perpendicular to the rails. For sheet sheathing, the direction of installation of the wooden crate does not really matter, but most often the bars are fastened vertically under the sheet;
• The step of fixing the bars on the wall is usually done clearly along the width of the foam sheets. But it is desirable that this step does not exceed 70 cm;

• The bars are mounted on self-tapping screws with plastic dowels "Quick installation" or on an anchor, it already depends on the material from which the walls of your garage are made;
• After the crate is fixed to the wall, foam sheets are inserted between the bars. If they fit tightly, then gluing them is not necessary. That's basically the whole technology, then it is attached to the crate finishing. In my opinion, clapboard, plywood or OSB is best suited for a garage.

Styrofoam insulation for garage ceiling

Styrofoam is best suited for insulation from the inside of ceilings on metal roofs, as well as in block structures, where reinforced concrete floor slabs act as a roof.

In both cases, the technology will be approximately the same. I already described how to prepare metal for mounting foam plastic in the previous chapter. As for reinforced concrete floor slabs, here the preparation is a little different.

To begin with, you will need to seal the seams between the floor slabs, as well as various kinds of defects and chips, if any. Usually, it is recommended to use a cement-based putty for this.

But I prefer to just blow out all the major ceiling defects with mounting foam. Naturally, the excess foam after solidification will need to be carefully cut off. After that, reinforced concrete floor slabs should be covered with soil deep penetration. There are many such compositions now, but in most cases concrete contact is used.

Further, the ceiling is insulated in much the same way as we insulated the walls of the garage. That is, the foam is glued to the metal ceiling with Liquid Nails glue or mounting foam. But if it was more convenient to work with foam on the walls, then Liquid Nails is more suitable here.

Styrofoam is glued to reinforced concrete floor slabs as well as to metal sheets. Although if you plan to continue to sheathe the ceiling with some finishing material, then you will need to attach a wooden crate to the ceiling, lay the foam between the guides and then sew on the lining you have chosen.

Kohl we are talking about how to insulate a garage inexpensively, the best option would be to paste over the ceiling with foam and glue foil foam on the foam. Indeed, on the ceiling you do not need to hang shelves or hammer nails into it, and foil penofol, firstly, looks good, and secondly, it is an additional layer of insulation, plus it creates the effect of a thermos and reflects heat rays inward.

Styrofoam for floor insulation

Styrofoam as a floor insulation is only suitable if you plan to lay wooden floors. Styrofoam cannot be laid in the screed, because it will not withstand such a weight and simply doubt.

Of all the currently existing slab insulation, only extruded polystyrene foam is suitable for laying in a reinforced concrete screed. Roads are insulated with this material, and even runways at modern airfields, so it will certainly withstand your car.

In order for the insulated wooden floors to stand firmly and not sink on the ground, you will have to pour a reinforced concrete screed. Naturally, if reinforced concrete floor slabs are laid on the floor, then no screed is needed anymore.

To equip a reinforced concrete screed, you will need to remove about 25 - 30 cm of soil inside the garage. The bottom of the pit should be well compacted and covered with geotextiles or technical polyethylene.

Then it is filled up, leveled along the horizon and a sand and gravel cushion 50 - 100 mm thick is well rammed. According to the technology, another layer of technical polyethylene must be laid on the sand and gravel cushion.

But, based on experience, in this case, you can deviate from this rule and immediately knit a reinforcing cage on the pillow. For reinforcement, a reinforcing bar with a diameter of about 10 mm (± 2 mm) is used. The frame is knitted in 2 layers with a gap of about 30 - 50 mm between the layers.

To keep the frame in this position until the concrete is poured, I lay out pieces of broken brick in a checkerboard pattern on a sand and gravel pillow and knit the first layer of mesh on it.

The gap between the first and second layer of the reinforcing cage, I again provide by laying out broken bricks on pieces. Special accuracy in observing the gaps is not required here, the main thing is that the grid completely “drowns” in the concrete layer and at the same time there are gaps between the first and second layers, as well as between the pillow and the lower grate.

The thickness of such a concrete slab must be at least 100 mm. Concrete hardens within 28 days. After that, a continuous layer of waterproofing is laid on the concrete screed. The cheapest way to use technical polyethylene.

To insulate wooden floors, foam plastic 50 mm thick will be enough. This means that we use a wooden block 50x50 mm as a load-bearing lag. Logs on the floor are mounted in increments of 30 - 40 cm and no more.

Styrofoam is laid as tightly as possible between the lags, and all gaps are blown out with mounting foam. In the garage, a tongue-and-groove or simply planed board with a thickness of at least 40 mm is laid on the floor.

All wood used for arranging any structures in the garage must be treated with protective impregnations. There are a lot of various universal impregnations on the market now, so there will be no problems with the choice.

From above, the wooden floor in the garage can simply be painted. But in such cases, I recommend laying linoleum. You should not take expensive linoleum based on it, our task is to protect the top layer of wood from abrasion, moisture and mechanical damage.

Styrofoam insulation for garage doors

In the economy version, foam plastic is perhaps the only material that can be used to insulate garage doors with high quality. We will talk about the insulation of standard metal double-leaf garage doors, which are currently used by at least 70 - 80% of motorists in our great country.

Such gates are often welded from a metal sheet with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm, which is based on a frame made of a corner or a profiled pipe. As a rule, a corner is taken with a wing of 45 mm, and a profiled pipe is used with a square or rectangular section of at least 40 mm.

Of course, foam boards, by analogy with the insulation of a metal ceiling and walls, can simply be glued from the inside of the gate. But the gate is not a ceiling, they are constantly in motion, plus there is a high probability of mechanical damage to the insulation.

Therefore, it is better to fix a wooden crate from a 50x50 mm bar on the gate, lay foam plastic in the crate, blow out the gaps with mounting foam and sew everything up, for example, with OSB sheets.

In this case, the wooden crate is not attached to the main surface of the garage door, but to the supporting metal frame. In a corner or in a profiled pipe, a series of holes are drilled on the side and a wooden bar is fastened through them with wood screws.

As an additional thermal screen, a curtain suspended at the top of the garage door opening is sometimes used. On the net, I often met advice to make such a curtain with my own hands from cut strips of technical polyethylene. People just saw something similar at car washes and decided that such a transparent curtain could be made from polyethylene.

So, if you love your car, then I do not advise you to do this. At car washes, such curtains are made of soft transparent plastic and they are quite expensive.

Polyethylene is not suitable for this. One of my neighbors made himself such a polyethylene curtain and he was happy with it for no more than a month. Strange as it may sound, it turns out that polyethylene strips leave micro-scratches on car paint. A month later, the car had to be polished again, and the plastic curtain went to the trash.

If you really want an inexpensive curtain, then install it from above metal pipe or pull a string and hang sliding curtains from an ordinary tarpaulin on it. Naturally, they will have to be pushed apart and pushed in with their own hands, but the car will be intact and it will be warmer in the garage.

Option number 2: insulate the garage with basalt wool

As you probably already understood, polystyrene is perhaps the best option for inexpensive garage insulation from the inside. But of course he's not perfect. Styrofoam has 2 serious drawbacks: firstly, it burns, and secondly, mice start up in it.

Therefore, many owners prefer to use dense mineral wool slabs for insulation. Basalt wool is now considered the best representative of this family. To prevent moisture changes from causing shrinkage, boards must be taken with a density of at least 180 kg / m³.

I will say right away that such plates will cost more than foam. Plus, not every garage can be insulated with cotton wool. So it is categorically not recommended to insulate metal structures with cotton wool.

The fact is that the thermal conductivity of the metal is quite high and if you cover your metal garage with cotton slabs from the inside, then the so-called dew point will be inside the cotton slabs, which means that the condensate will settle there and the waterproofing will be useless here.

Every novice builder knows that cotton wool in any form is afraid of moisture, respectively, such insulation will become unusable very quickly.

As for block structures, it is possible to insulate them with wool from the inside, and the technology of such insulation is not much different from the above installation of foam plastic. But there are still some differences.

• So for gluing cotton slabs on concrete ceiling or walls using construction adhesive, about the same as for laying tiles. Personally, in such cases, I use dry building mixes from the Ceresit brand;
• Foil penofol will no longer stick to cotton slabs. To fix such a blanket through a heater, blind holes with a depth of about 50 mm are drilled in the base and plastic dowel umbrellas are driven into them. Dowels are driven in a checkerboard pattern with an interval of 30 - 40 cm;

• Although wool is an excellent material for insulation gable roofs on wooden rafters, here it is significantly ahead of all heaters, including polystyrene;
• So if the roof is covered with ordinary slate, then a crate is stuffed on top of the wooden rafters and slate is laid on it. To insulate such a roof, from the inside, a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the crate and rafters with a stapler. Further, cotton slabs are tightly inserted between the rafters, after which the slabs are covered with another layer of vapor barrier membrane;
• In principle, you can stop there, but I always recommend additionally lining the inner vapor barrier layer with a lattice of thin wooden planks, for example, 20x30 mm. If you feel sorry for the money for planed planks, then you can use a simple slab, but it will look very mediocre. In addition, the crate of planed wooden planks can be easily sheathed with the same plastic or any other facing material;

The vapor barrier membrane allows steam to flow in only one direction and this must be taken into account when installing it, the vapor-permeable side is marked on the membrane itself. Remember, steam must come out of the garage to the street.

• If you decide to lay cotton slabs in the crate on the walls or between the logs of the wooden floor, then wooden bars should be 20 - 30 mm higher than the cotton slabs. Here the technology is similar to the insulation of a gable roof.

First, a vapor barrier membrane is attached, then the plates are inserted and all this is covered with another layer of vapor barrier. Only between the second layer of vapor barrier and any finishing cladding should there be a ventilation gap, for this the supporting crate is made 20-30 mm higher than the insulation.

Option number 3: insulation of the garage with sawdust

Sawdust is practically a free material and our ancestors used it to insulate houses from time immemorial. But in the case of a garage, there are a number of limitations. So in metal garages, only the floor can be insulated with sawdust. In block buildings, sawdust slabs can be mounted almost everywhere, but only under the crate.

For installation in the crate, you will need to make sawdust slabs with your own hands. Sawdust is taken clean, without inclusions of bark or other debris. Fresh sawdust can not be taken, they must be aged for at least a year in a dry room.

To form the plates, you will have to knock down several wooden molds. Usually slabs are made with a thickness of 100 - 150 mm. The solution is mixed in a proportion of 10 parts of sawdust, 1 part of M500 cement and one part of slaked lime. All this is mixed in a concrete mixer and only after that water is gradually added.

To determine readiness, you need to squeeze the solution in your hand. The solution should stick together, but water should not flow out of it. To protect against mice, 2 - 3% is added to the solution. boric acid, and for the elasticity of the blocks, 1 - 2% gelatin dissolves in water.

The solution must be poured into molds, lightly tamped and wait until it dries. After that, such briquettes are laid in the crate. Only here a rather expensive vapor barrier membrane can be replaced with cheap glassine.

As you can see, there is much more trouble with sawdust than with foam or mineral wool. Therefore, when it comes to sawdust, I recommend only insulating the floor with them. To do this, you will need to mix sawdust concrete.

Below in the table I wrote out the composition of such sawdust concrete.

I have already described the technology for arranging a concrete reinforced screed above. Here it is the same, with the only difference that the thickness of such a reinforced screed is made at least 150 - 200 mm.

A few words about the insulation of the floor in the garage with expanded clay

Expanded clay is a strong, durable, and most importantly inexpensive insulation.

The technology of floor insulation in a garage with expanded clay is somewhat reminiscent of the arrangement of a conventional concrete screed, only the thickness of the layers will be slightly different.

• The pit is dug here with a depth of about 450 mm. After that, the base is rammed and covered to the very top with an overlap on the walls with a continuous layer of waterproofing. Technical polyethylene is the cheapest;
• A sand and gravel cushion with a thickness of about 50 mm is filled up and rammed onto the waterproofing;
• Now, expanded clay of medium and fine fractions is mixed in equal proportions, after which the insulation is filled up with a thickness of 300 mm;
• The top layer is reinforced concrete screed 100 mm thick. I have already talked about this technology above.

Conclusion

As you can see, inexpensive insulation of the garage from the inside with your own hands is possible, the main thing here is not to get hung up on one thing, but to be creative this process. The photo and video in this article shows the nuances of self-insulating a garage. If after studying the material there are questions, welcome to the comments, we will talk.

A garage can protect your car from precipitation, but it will not save you from low temperatures without reliable thermal insulation. Sudden changes in temperature will negatively affect the condition of the car: the metal will begin to rust, and a fungus may appear in the cabin. To create favorable conditions for storing a car, you need to think about how to insulate the garage from the inside, and preferably cheaply.

Garages are mainly built from cinder block, brick and sometimes metal products. The thickness of the walls of cinder block or brick is most often in the range of 120-250 mm. They practically do not protect the room from low temperatures, so for comfortable work they need to be reliably insulated.

With the internal insulation of the garage, it is not necessary to close up all the holes - this will not improve thermal insulation, but can cause certain problems. Without constant ventilation, moisture from the air will condense on the metal and it will begin to rust. In addition, ventilation prevents the accumulation of harmful gases in the garage.

Where is it better to insulate the garage - outside or inside

The internal insulation of the garage is undoubtedly a more advantageous option compared to the external one.

Many garage owners argue that it is better to insulate the outside of the garage, interpreting this as saving internal space. But do not forget that some heaters release substances into the air that can damage health. They should not be used indoors, but for external thermal insulation they fit perfectly.

Another plus for internal insulation– the materials used are less affected Environment. After all, what's the use of a heater if it gets wet? At internal thermal insulation such a development is out of the question.

Choosing the right material

Most insulation materials are made from industrial waste. For this use:

• Cellulose;
• Glass;
• Various chemicals.

The less the heater costs, the more flaws it can find.. There is a large list of common materials. When choosing among them suitable for your conditions, you need to consider both their positive properties and disadvantages.

Mineral wool

Among the many options for mineral wool, it is better to opt for basalt

This material has been used for decades. There are several varieties of mineral wool, the best of which is basalt. It perfectly protects from noise and retains heat, while not compromising the air circulation in the garage.

The material is produced in the form of soft, semi-rigid and rigid mats. The last option is the most preferred. Rigid plates are easy to mount, they have high performance. Rigid mineral wool will not slide off the surface of the walls, unlike soft.

To work with mineral wool, special tools are not needed, so many garage owners choose this material for insulation.

Please note! For mineral wool, even the slightest moisture is unacceptable - raw material does not retain heat well. When calculating the cost of thermal insulation of the garage, you need to add the cost of effective hydro- and vapor barrier materials.

glass wool

In addition to cheapness, glass wool has no special advantages.

This is one of the cheapest insulating materials, and this is its only plus. You need to work with glass wool only using protective equipment, since when it gets into the eyes or on the skin, its particles cause redness, severe itching and even microtrauma.

Glass wool must be reliably protected from moisture, because when wet it loses its heat-insulating properties and crumple. In addition, there is an unpleasant smell in the room where it is used.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam is durable and easy to handle, but does not breathe well

Styrofoam is often used for internal insulation of the garage. This is a cheap and durable thermal insulation material that can protect your garage for several decades. Styrofoam is not afraid of fungus and insects, it does not rot at all, and besides, it is easily cut. You can mount it without assistants, it weighs little and is easy to use.

But polystyrene also has disadvantages. The insulation almost does not let air through, therefore, in the room where it is used, it is necessary to create a good ventilation system, and the areas where individual sheets are joined must be securely sealed, otherwise condensation will begin to accumulate. It will not be damaged by many chemicals, but can be destroyed by the direct rays of the sun. In addition, mice can settle in the foam - without special protective measures rodents are able to destroy it in just a couple of years of service.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is highly valued by garage owners due to its resistance to environmental influences. After application, it expands, eliminating all voids and cracks, and reliably adheres to the wall material, so condensate cannot collect under it. When the polyurethane foam hardens, a dense hydrophobic layer is formed. The material does not burn and is able to serve more than 50 years.

But, like any other material, this heat insulator has disadvantages. The most important of them is the difficulty in applying the material. Installation of polyurethane foam can only be done with the help of special equipment, and it is best that this is done by specialists.

Reflective insulation allows you to direct heat into the room

The advantage of foil insulation is that heat is reflected inside into the room. The thickness of the reflective layer can be up to 50 mm. Such materials significantly reduce the heat loss of the garage, because they occur as a result of infrared radiation losses. But they are not able to affect the induction and convection losses of thermal energy, and this is a serious minus.

Warm plaster

If the walls in your garage are made of brick or cinder block, you can use insulating plaster to insulate it. In its manufacture, the composition includes special additives that retain heat: vermicult, treated sawdust or expanded polystyrene.

This insulation has good thermal insulation properties, but in order for such insulation to be effective, it is necessary to apply a thick layer of material to the surface of the walls, which will increase the load on the garage structure.

Insulation paint

This material is made in the form of liquid polymers, to which synthetic components are added. The resulting coating retains heat well. A layer of warm paint with a thickness of 1 mm retains heat in the same way as a layer of mineral wool with a thickness of 50 mm. When it completely hardens, a dense layer is created.

The coating does not interfere with air circulation and at the same time protects the surface from water penetration. Heat insulating paint can be used to finish metal and wood surfaces. In addition, it is good because it is very easy to apply it to the walls.

When insulating a garage, all surfaces are subject to processing

For reliable thermal insulation of the garage, it is necessary to protect not only the walls, it will also be necessary to insulate the floor, entrance gate, floor surface and ceiling. The range of materials suitable for this is huge, and you can choose what you need for a particular building. Most often they stop at mineral wool or polystyrene, and the floor is mainly insulated with expanded clay.

It makes sense to combine different heat insulators, since building construction built from different materials.

Floor insulation

If you bought a garage with an uninsulated floor, it will be difficult to solve the problem

The floor in the garage is most often made of concrete, so it is advisable to insulate it during pouring.. If you have purchased a ready-made garage, then it will be difficult to protect the floor from the cold, since during work its surface will become much higher. The alternative is to remove some of the soil and lower the floor level.

Work sequence:

• The soil is leveled and well compacted;
• A layer of sand is poured in 10-20 cm, and it is also carefully compacted;
• A concrete screed is made on the finished sand cushion, after which they wait for the solution to set;
• Expanded clay is used as a heat insulator;
• The insulation is mixed with cement and a concrete solution is prepared on this basis;
• Pour the floor with the resulting mixture and wait until the surface hardens;
• At the end of the work, a finishing screed is made.

The finished floor should not be used for about a month - this period is necessary for the high-quality hardening of concrete.

Scheme of the floor arranged on the ground

Ceiling insulation

Warm air, according to the laws of physics, rises, so the ceiling must be insulated. For this, it is best to use foam.

The sequence of work is as follows:

• The choice of mounting method depends on the material of the floor. On the wooden ceiling you can fix the foam with simple nails. On the concrete floor, you must first make a frame in which the heat-insulating material is also placed. In this case, the foam plastic can be fixed with adhesive tape, and then closed with plywood or decorative trim;
• All gaps and cracks are sealed with foam;
• The plywood surface on the ceiling is impregnated with antiseptics, cleaned well and then painted.

Styrofoam is best for insulating the ceiling in the garage

Wall insulation

Walls are usually insulated with mineral wool.

To insulate metal walls, you must first align the bent sections. As a heat insulator, it is desirable to use heat-insulating paint, polyurethane foam or foam plastic. For garages built of brick or cinder block, mineral wool is mainly used.

The sequence of work with mineral wool:

• The walls are cleaned, the frame is prepared;
• Heat-insulating material is placed in the finished frame, fixing it with special hooks;
• The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier material;
• Any decorative finish is suitable, it is mounted after laying the vapor barrier layer.

Styrofoam insulation:

• The surface is leveled and prepared;
• The foam is fixed with glue, pressing evenly over the entire area;
• Sheets must be placed end-to-end, sealing all gaps with foam;
• After the foam has cured, all protruding excess is removed;
• The walls are puttied and covered with a suitable paint.

Attention! Do not forget that the foam in the fire begins to release toxic compounds into the air. It is necessary to follow the safety rules and be sure to have a working fire extinguisher ready in the garage.

Gate insulation

It is convenient to protect metal gate leaves from the cold with the help of foam. Not bad to do thermal curtain, for this, a thick film or dense fabric is hung in front of the gate.

The sequence of work on the insulation of the gate is as follows:

• First of all, a crate is made on the gate, after which sheets of insulation are fixed in it with the help of dowels or glue;
• Any gaps, seams and joints between the sheets are sealed with foam to eliminate cold bridges;
• The foam laid in the crate is leveled with putty, covered with paint or protected with sheets of decorative sheathing;
• After that, polyethylene strips 20-30 cm wide are suspended as a thermal curtain in front of the gate to the entire height of the garage.

Each owner of the garage decides for himself how it is convenient for him to insulate the garage. At the same time, it is important to choose reliable way protection from the cold. It is best to seek advice from professionals who will help you choose suitable materials so that the insulation of the garage will cost you inexpensively, and the thermal insulation will be durable and effective.

15.06.2018

The garage protects the car from direct exposure to rain and snow. But this is not the only thing that affects the state of its mechanisms. Temperature fluctuations lead to condensation. And he, in turn, becomes the cause of rust, fungi and mold, accumulates in body cavities, damages the engine. Therefore, the task of the car owner is to reduce his education to a minimum.

Warm or insulate?

When the temperature in the garage is below zero, the condensate freezes. And when the engine warms up, it starts to melt. Freeze-thaw cycles do not benefit either the metal or the internal mechanisms.

But heating the room is not the best solution. Leaving a warm garage in the cold, we create a situation of a sharp temperature drop. And when returning back to the heated space, we get the formation of condensate even on those parts where moisture does not get when the car is moving.

Experts claim that Better conditions for winter storage, cars are created when the thermometer shows + 5 ° С. The danger of corrosion under such conditions is minimal, and the temperature difference between the street and the room does not have such a detrimental effect on the car.

Accordingly, choosing between connecting to the heating system and insulating the garage with your own hands, it is wiser to stop at the second option. Moreover, it will help save on monthly energy bills.

Basic requirements for garage insulation

When insulating a place to store a car, it is worth remembering a number of key points.

• Can't close up ventilation holes- any thermally insulated building also needs ventilation, as well as a heated one.
• Thermal protection should affect not only walls, but also garage doors, floors, roofs.
• If there is a desire to do everything according to the rules, it would be useful to study the sixth section of SNiP 2.07.01–89. It regulates the requirements for the premises where vehicles are stored. Of course, when it comes to a personal garage, it is not necessary to comply with them. However, standards can help address a number of issues.
• For door insulation, in most cases, internal thermal protection is mounted.

How to insulate: inside or outside

The most desirable type of insulation is external. It protects the walls from freezing and allows them to accumulate heat.

Nevertheless, sometimes they resort to warming the garage from the inside. For example, when there is no indent between the garage boxes or their walls are adjacent.

Overview of the materials market: choosing the best

The first thing to consider when choosing a heat insulator is the type of insulation you have chosen. For example, moisture-permeable materials, when wet, change their properties. Therefore they are not good option for external thermal protection. And for internal thermal insulation, heaters that emit harmful substances in the summer heat or during household heating are not suitable.

The modern market offers several types of garage insulation materials. Consider the main properties and characteristics of the most popular of them.

Mineral wool

Produced in the form of plates and rolls. It retains heat well and has soundproofing properties. However, it easily absorbs moisture. high humidity the main enemy of cotton heaters. And when wet, it completely loses its ability to isolate heat. Therefore, its use requires high-quality hydro- and vapor barrier. It is almost impossible to dry this insulation, it becomes brittle and easily damaged. And when wet during installation, glass wool clumps and becomes unsuitable for further use (cavities appear inside it).

Considering that the outer insulation cake can be damaged or depressurized, it is risky to use this material. Generally for vertical mounting minvata - not the best choice. It has considerable weight and consists of fibers. Under their own weight, over the years, they can sag, and voids will form between them - the so-called cold bridges.

This heat insulator has two advantages: low price and the same low thermal conductivity. But that's all. Then only the disadvantages begin. Once in the lungs, glass particles are no longer excreted from the body. On the skin, they leave itching and irritation. During their installation, a protective suit, a respirator and a mask are required, and after completion of work, a thorough cleaning of the premises. Then a day or two will have to wait until the glass dust settles, not visible to the eye.

If during operation at least partial damage to the protective layer of films or foil material has occurred, you will again need to rent overalls and, after the repair is completed, resort to cleaning.

And finally, the material shrinks and does not differ in durability. Therefore, it does not matter which type of insulation you prefer: internal or external, it is better not to dwell on this option.

Styrofoam

This material is very popular due to its low cost and ease of installation. It retains heat well and lasts for decades. It can be mounted independently, without having at hand any special tools or special building skills. But you still cannot call it an ideal solution. Although not as significant as mineral wool, it absorbs moisture. Very easily damaged and crumbled. Its granules have a low adhesive strength, so over the years they can fly out even with accidental pressure on the material.

But the main thing is not even that. There is a huge amount of uncertified foam on the market due to the high demand for it. Finding a high-quality and safe product for health is not an easy task. And the one that was produced in violation of technology, with an increase in temperature and exposure to sunlight, begins to release toxic substances. Given that the garage is a closed space, this is fraught with serious health problems for the car owner.

PENOPLEX (extruded polystyrene foam)

Perhaps, to insulate the garage from the inside with your own hands is best option. It is affordable, it is even easier to install than polystyrene - the joints do not need to be sealed with foam, because they have L-shaped grooves. It is easy to cut and can be glued directly to the wall.

But the most important, of course, is its ability to thermal insulation - one of the best among modern materials. And it remains the same in all situations. PENOPLEX does not get wet (moisture absorption coefficient is less than 0.4% in 28 days), is not afraid of defrosting-freezing cycles and lasts more than 50 years.

It is resistant to compression, does not shrink, absorbs noise, does not rot, insects do not start in it, and to top it all off, it is a homogeneous mass of polymer without separate granules. This provides him with high strength even after many years after the work carried out.

Summarizing all of the above, we conclude that this material is ideal for both external and internal insulation.

Reflective thermal insulation

It is a foil material, which in itself has rather modest heat-insulating characteristics and a small thickness. It reflects infrared radiation well, which means that it makes sense to use it only for heated rooms. If there is no heat source, there will be little benefit from it. Therefore, as a rule, it is used only as an additional means of thermal protection when using other materials. For example, PENOPLEX.

How to insulate a garage from the outside - step by step instructions

For outdoor work, it is most convenient to use rigid plates. The cheapest option is foam. PENOPLEX is more expensive, but much more effective in terms of moisture resistance, thermal protection, service life and strength. Therefore, we will consider the installation procedure for this particular material. However, it almost does not differ from foam insulation technology.

We will need:

• glue (best of all branded PENOPLEX, since its composition is specially adapted for this insulation and does not destroy it);
• spatula for applying glue or a special gun;
• painting knife or electric jigsaw for cutting sheets;
• fastening disc elements (4 pieces for each plate).

Step 1. Preparing the walls.

We clean them from old paint, dirt, dust, cobwebs and other things. You can walk with a primer so that the glue grabs better. But this is an optional moment.

Step 2 Attach the bottom bar.

It is typical for plates to start installation from the ground. We fix the starting profile on the dowels and proceed to laying the material in a checkerboard pattern.

Step 3 Heater fixture.

This is a simple matter: we apply glue in strips on the plate and apply it to the wall. We connect the L-shaped grooves to each other, due to this, a snug fit of the material without gaps is ensured. When the glue dries, for greater reliability, we fix the sheet with dish-shaped dowels.

Step 4 Final works.

To protect PENOPLEX from ultraviolet radiation and make the facade more aesthetic, we plaster the walls or cover them with siding, DSP, and other materials.

Technology: how to insulate a garage from the inside with your own hands

As we see, with external insulation even an unprepared person can handle it. However, internal work is also not particularly difficult.

Floor insulation

It can be made different ways. One of the simplest and most time-consuming options is PENOPLEX insulation under the screed. To do this, the floor will need to be slightly raised. This will reduce the height of the room, but you won’t have to dig a pit - you can mount a heat insulator on an existing floor. The order of work is simple.

1. We clean the surface, make a cement-sand screed (DSP) or level the coating using building mixtures. It is important that the differences do not exceed 5 mm.

2. At the next stage, we lay PENOPLEX FOUNDATION® directly on the floor without the use of glue and dowels. You can put insulating material in one or more layers.

3. In order to distribute the forthcoming point loads, it is necessary to fill with concrete mortar or self-levelling mixture 40 mm thick. At the same time, the insulation is insulated with a film, and its seams are securely fastened with adhesive tape. Between the wall and the screed, 1–2 cm of empty space is left to take into account thermal expansion and further make sound insulation by filling it with foamed polyethylene.

4. A finishing floor is laid at the finish.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling when insulating the garage from the inside

The order of work is approximately the same as with the walls. We glue the PENOPLEX® COMFORT sheets, fix them with dowels, supplement them with a vapor barrier film, a crate, cover them with a finishing material, and the thermal protection is ready.

Warming the walls of the garage from the inside with your own hands

It can be carried out according to the same principle as for external walls, only using a vapor barrier film that is laid on top of the heat insulator.

Gate protection

Many are faced with the problem of seasonal “walking” of the pillars (the base of the gate), which is why they do not close. The best solution is to protect the base (pillars) from freezing when installing the gate. If you have already installed ordinary iron gates, then they must also be thermally insulated from the inside. If it is possible to attach the sheets to the dowels to the material from which the gate is made, it is worth doing it. If not, the usual glue method will do. Already glued insulation is covered first with a vapor barrier film, then with outer skin. To enhance thermal protection, foil polyethylene can be used.

Thus, right choice thermal insulation material makes the insulation of the garage a fairly simple process, which everyone can do.

Even 10-15 years ago, garages were built without insulation of walls, floors and ceilings. Therefore, in the cold season, use the room in in full was impossible. With the advent of modern and inexpensive heaters, garage construction and finishing technologies have reached a new qualitative level. It became possible to insulate the garage with your own hands.

There are two ways:

• Garage insulation from the outside. This is not always possible in garages where outer wall insulated garage is internal to the neighboring building.
• Warming the walls of the garage from the inside. Can be performed at any location of the building.

Garages are often insulated from the inside. Before you start work, you need to calculate the dew point. If this parameter is not taken into account, then the walls will get wet, a fungus will appear.

Before you insulate the garage from the inside, you need to figure out what materials are used. Find out their positive and negative properties.

The interior space of the garage consists of the floor, walls, ceiling and gate. Each is insulated separately:

• we insulate the walls with foam, mineral wool, plaster, penoizol (liquid foam), polyurethane foam;
• expanded clay is used for the floor, less often polystyrene;
• foam, penoizol or mineral wool is used for the ceiling;
• gates are sheathed with foam.

An important indicator for all materials of this group is thermal conductivity. Below is a summary table of averages:

Insulation of the garage from the inside is not made of blocks. New boxes for cars are being built from them.

Lightweight porous insulation for the floor or foundation of the garage, refers to cheap materials. The thermal conductivity of expanded clay is about 1.5 times higher than that of polystyrene, but 10 times lower than that of brickwork. This puts it in the middle positions in terms of thermal protection. Not used in garage wall insulation.

Burnt expanded clay has a water absorption coefficient of not more than 20%, It is not afraid of sudden changes in temperature, does not burn. Expanded clay is harmless to the body, as it does not emit harmful fumes.

Mineral wool

This is a class of artificial insulation with a fibrous structure. It consists of rocks, glass and slag. Insulation of garage walls from the inside with mineral wool is very common due to its high thermal insulation characteristics. According to this indicator, mineral wool is on par with polystyrene foam. It absorbs sound waves well, practically does not burn. Basalt mineral wool has high compressive strength.

The only negative is the high coefficient of water absorption. It is possible to insulate walls with its help only with the condition of subsequent plastering or other hermetic sealing of the surface.

Styrofoam

The most effective, cheapest and most popular garage insulation. It consists of small granules, reliably and hermetically soldered together. Do-it-yourself garage foam insulation from the inside is the most energy-efficient method.

Styrofoam has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. It does not absorb water and does not pass steam. It is a lightweight material that does not weaken the load-bearing capacity of a wall, ceiling or gate.

Styrofoam enters into a chemical reaction with many chemicals. It cannot be used in aggressive environments. Styrofoam releases hazardous phenolic compounds during combustion.

Styrofoam

According to the installation method, it practically does not differ from polystyrene foam. It has a lower water absorption coefficient, higher density. Insulating a garage from the inside with polystyrene foam is more expensive than a similar operation from polystyrene foam.

Penoizol

This is an analogue of foam for walls, which is applied in liquid form. Penoizol does not differ from polystyrene in heat-conducting characteristics. He has a burning class G-1. It absorbs water well, but does not accumulate in itself, but evaporates into the atmosphere. Penoizol is a hygroscopic vapor-permeable insulation.

Do-it-yourself garage insulation

Most of the garages are built of brick or foam block. Therefore, the question often arises of how to insulate a brick garage, and not a metal one.

The work is divided into several stages:

• walls;
• gates;
• ceiling.

Walls

Do-it-yourself garage insulation is primarily wall cladding. Most of the heat is lost through them. So how to insulate the walls in a brick garage?

Wall cladding with styrofoam sheets

This is the answer to the question of how to insulate a garage cheaply.

• The walls are stripped of old plaster and paint. All irregularities are covered with cement-sand mortar.
• After drying, the walls are impregnated with soil or an antiseptic to kill mold and mildew.
• Then sheets of foam plastic 100 mm thick are glued. To do this, use a notched trowel and special glue.
• After 24 hours, a plaster mesh is attached to the foam. To do this, throw a little solution and press the stack into it.
• Then the surface is plastered and puttied. Can be used ready facade plaster in bags, and cement-sand mortar M150. It is better not to waste energy on independent mixing of the solution, but to buy ready-made dry mixes.

Installation of insulation on the frame

A more expensive, but effective and reliable way to insulate garage walls:

• The surface of the walls is cleaned, all bulges are removed. Potholes and cracks are expanded and sealed with a cement-sand mortar.
• An antiseptic or deep penetration primer is applied to the walls with a roller. Thus, mold and fungus are destroyed.
• After drying, the walls are sheathed with a polyethylene film or membrane vapor barrier.
• Using a laser level, two horizontal guides are installed. One goes along the floor, the other under the ceiling. For this, a wooden beam 100 × 50 mm or a metal profile is used. They are attached to the wall with anchors or self-tapping dowels.
• Vertical guides are installed in increments of 600-800 mm. Absolute precision is not needed here. Therefore, for installation, you can use the usual level or plumb line. Vertical guides are made of timber 100×50 mm or metal profile. They are attached to the wall in the same way as the horizontal rails.
• Insulation sheets are inserted between the bars. If foam is used, then it is attached to the glue. Then additional fixing of the sheets is provided with the help of plastic dowels in the form of a mushroom. The consumption rate per sheet is 5-6 pieces. The seams are sealed with mounting foam.

If dense basalt mineral wool is used, then glue is not required. It is enough to fix with plastic dowels. The seams between the sheets are sealed with pieces of mineral wool.

For walls sheathed with mineral wool, a second layer of waterproofing is required on the side interior. Styrofoam does not need additional protection against moisture.

• For sheathing, lining or profiled sheet is used. Which material to choose, a matter of taste of each person.

More labor and material costs will be required for wall cladding with sheets of drywall or cement-bonded particle board. They are attached to the frame using wood or metal screws 30-40 mm. Then the joints between the sheets are glued with a mesh and puttied. At the final stage, the walls are puttied and painted.

Garage insulation with polyurethane foam requires the involvement of third-party hired construction organizations. It is impossible to do the work with your own hands.

Floor

Basically, the thermal insulation of the garage floor is carried out by two materials: expanded clay or foam. As a coating, a cement-sand screed is used.

Thermal insulation of the floor with expanded clay

• A hole 250-300 mm deep is dug around the perimeter of the garage. The bottom is leveled and beacons are installed in several places. To obtain the mounting horizon, a laser or water level is used.
• The bottom of the pit is covered with roofing material or plastic wrap. A 300 mm bend is made on all sides.
• Expanded clay falls asleep. The thickness of the layer is equal to the depth of the pit. After backfilling, the surface is leveled according to the beacons using the rule. The beacons are then removed.
• A frame made of corrugated reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm is laid on top of the expanded clay. It can be bought or assembled directly at the construction site. To do this, the reinforcing bars are cut to size and laid out crosswise. Cell size 100-150 mm. The rods are connected to each other with a knitting wire.
• A beacon profile is laid on the grid with a step of 600 mm.
• A cement-sand screed is poured. The solution can be ordered or kneaded on site. The fill starts from the far corner. Layer thickness 100-120 mm. After pouring, the floor surface is equal to the rule. After 48 hours, the screed can be wiped off. For this, a trowel is used and a small amount of solution.

The period of complete drying of the screed is 28 days. Work on further insulation can be started 7 days after pouring. To avoid the appearance of cracks, the screed is shed with water every 12 hours for 3 days.

Styrofoam floor insulation

An option when you do not need to dig a pit. Insulation can be laid on the old coating:

• The old coating is cleaned of dirt. If there are large potholes, they are sealed.
• A plastic film or roofing material is laid on the floor. This is a layer of waterproofing.
• Sheets of extruded polystyrene with a density of at least C-25 are laid on the finished base. The thickness of the insulation layer should be 100 mm. It is possible to lay casts in one layer with a thickness of 100 mm. It is much more reliable to use 50 mm foam, laying the sheets in two layers.

All joints are sealed with mounting foam.

• From above, the foam is covered with a layer of waterproofing made of polyethylene film or roofing felt. On each side there is an overlap on the wall of 100 mm.
• A reinforcing mesh with a mesh size of 100-120 mm is laid on the waterproofing. The mesh is laid on small veins, so the solution can flow under it.
• A screed is poured over the grid. The technology of the device of the supporting base is no different.

Gates

Metal garage doors are the main source of heat loss. If you completely insulate the perimeter, but do not touch the gate, then the work will be done in vain. Before starting the insulation, you can build an additional curtain. To do this, you need two wooden slats and dense reinforced polyethylene.

The first rail is attached above the gate. The film is cut into strips 200-300 mm wide and 20 mm long less than the distance from the rail to the floor. Then the strips are nailed overlapping each other. The second rail is stuffed on the first. It turns out a reliable fastening.

The curtain is ready, you can proceed directly to the insulation of the gates:

• The inside of the garage door is covered with plastic wrap.
• A frame is assembled from a wooden beam 50 × 50 mm. It is screwed to the gate leaf with metal screws. Pre wooden bars treated with an antiseptic.

The thickness of the beam for the frame should always correspond to the thickness of the insulation.

• Styrofoam sheets are inserted into the resulting frame. They are glued to the inner surface of the gate with glue. It must be chosen carefully, since the foam can enter into a chemical reaction with the glue and collapse. Sheets are pressed as tightly as possible to the surface of the gate.
• Butt joints are sealed with mounting foam.
• From above, the foam is sewn up with a clapboard or profiled sheet using self-tapping screws with a drill.

Ceiling

According to the production technology, the insulation of the ceiling does not differ from the insulation of the walls. Insulation sheets are attached to the cells of the frame made of wood or metal and sewn up with clapboard, drywall or any other finishing material.

Video: garage insulation

In this article detailed instructions How to properly insulate your garage. How to get the job done cheaply the best materials. The main thing is to follow the advice, take your time and thoughtfully approach each stage of finishing. Then the result will not keep you waiting.