Waterproofing for paving slabs. How to make a blind area from paving slabs around a private house - a water protection device. Laying paving slabs on a concrete pavement

29.10.2019

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The blind area is a waterproof stone strip around the building, adjoining the basement at one edge and having a slope in the direction from the house, ensuring the removal of storm and flood waters from the foundation.

blind area device paving slabs enjoys great popularity

Thus, the blind area is an important structural element of the house, the construction of which cannot be neglected. There are several types of blind area, differing from each other in design and execution materials, but performing one task - protecting the foundation of the house from water. However, if the surface of the structure is properly trimmed with paving slabs, the blind area can also serve as a footpath and a decorative element of the interior of the house. Knowing the technology of the device of this design, it is easy to make and equip it with your own hands.

Let's break down the full scope of work on the installation of the blind area into stages and consider the technologies that allow it to be finished with paving slabs:

Markup.
Waterproofing.
Installation of curbs.
Sand pillow.
Gravel preparation.
Reinforcement.
Concrete base.
Laying tiles.
Filling paving stones.

markup

The width of the blind area of the house should be 20-30 cm more than the roof overhang, but not less than 60 cm. Another 30 cm should be added to this value to install curbs or concrete drainage trays.

In order to correctly project the outline of the roof onto the ground with their own hands, a building plumb line is lowered to the ground from the stairs attached to the wall of the house and a peg is driven in at the point of contact. From each straight section of the roof, 2 points are projected. These points are transferred from the walls of the house by another 30 cm, pegs are driven in and a control cord is pulled over them.

First you need to decide on the width of the blind area and make the appropriate markup

A design horizontal line of the upper finishing mark of paving slabs is applied to the basement of the building from the outside along the perimeter. Then, parallel to it, another line is applied below it - the level of pouring the concrete base. The distance between these lines should be equal to the thickness of the tile plus 2-3 cm.

With a bayonet shovel, you need to make an incision in the turf along the control cord and take out the soil to a depth of 25-30 cm around the building from the walls to the incision line.

A trench 25 cm wide and 15 cm deep is dug along the outer perimeter of the resulting new base to install curbs, after which the base surface and the bottom of the trench are leveled and rammed in it.

Stages of preparing the surface for the blind area

Waterproofing construction

Across the dug trench with an overlap of 10 cm, strips of roofing material are laid in such a way that the roofing material repeats the profile of the base - it descends from the ground into the trench, exits it and, passing across the base of the future blind area, forms an overlap 30 cm high on the base. the surfaces of the overlapping strips of roofing material cover bituminous mastic and glued together.

The device of the expansion joint on the plinth

To the plinth along the perimeter, over the roofing material overlaps, with the help of dowels-fungi, do-it-yourself butt strips of extruded polystyrene foam (solid foam, without balls) 2-3 cm thick are attached end-to-end.

The width of the strips must be 30 cm, the upper edge of the strip must pass along the line of the top level of the tile marked on the base. Expanded polystyrene will not only evenly press the roofing material to the surface of the base, but will also take on the stresses that will arise in concrete due to temperature fluctuations.

Insulated blind area

The installation of expanded polystyrene on the base, in addition to the method of damping deformations, is part of the technology for constructing an insulated blind area, which is performed in areas with a high level of soil freezing. The technology for constructing an insulated blind area also includes a number of other works, for example, the production of insulation of the basement to a great depth and the conical filling of expanded clay under it.

The insulated blind area of the house prevents the formation of condensate on the inner surface of the basement, which is important when using the technical underground.

The device of the pavement from paving slabs is made using borders that prevent the paving stones from slipping along an inclined surface and give completeness to the finish of the structure. Curb stone is produced in different sizes. For arranging the blind area, stones of the format 1000x150x300 and 850x150x300 mm (length x width x height) are convenient, requiring the efforts of two people during installation, but providing high structural strength. When arranging a blind area with a curly configuration of the outer edge, the curbs are cut into 2 or 4 parts with a grinder with a dry cutter.

Crushed stone of a fraction of 20-40 mm with a layer of 5-7 cm is poured onto the bottom of the trench on top of the roofing material, leveled and tamped with a rammer made by hand from a piece of log or timber. The border is laid on a layer of cement-sand mortar 5 cm thick, applied to a compacted crushed stone cushion in a trench, and aligned with a control cord and a bubble level.

It is necessary to make a "curb lock" - the solution flush with the soil base of the blind area is laid in a trench on both sides of the curb between the stone and the roofing material.

Curb top level

The design position of the upper plane of the stone can be of two types:

flush with paving slabs;
above the level of paving stones by 5-7 cm (blind area-sidewalk).

In the first case, the curbs are mounted without a gap, with a preliminary application of a continuous layer of mortar on the end of the stone and installing it close to the adjacent product. The top mark of the curb should be 5-7 cm below the mark line of the tile applied on the base. This corresponds to a blind area slope of 5-7%. The excess mortar that has come out is removed with a trowel, and the joints are rubbed.

When installing curbs above the tiles, every second joint is made with a gap of 5 cm for water drainage. The level of the upper edge of the curb in this case should approximately coincide with the level of the edge of the tile adjacent to the basement of the house.

Sand cushion device

On top of the waterproofing, sand is poured and leveled with a layer of 10 cm. It is better if the sand is wet - this will increase the quality of its subsequent compaction with your own hands. The sand will press the roofing material evenly and without damage to the compacted primed base, and will also preliminarily mark the profile of the crushed stone pillow.

To do this, you need to pour a ball of sand and compact it tightly

Construction of a crushed stone pillow

On top of the sand layer, crushed stone of a fraction of 20-40 mm is laid, leveled with a layer of 8-10 cm and compacted. Compaction is carried out so that the subsidence of crushed stone into the hidden cavity does not entail the subsidence of concrete.

The profile of the crushed stone layer should repeat the profile of the sand cushion, that is, it should have a slope of 5-7% away from the building.

The concrete base around the building is reinforced with a flat steel mesh with a mesh size of 15x15 or 20x20 cm from reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm. Pieces of the mesh are sequentially laid in a row with an overlap on each other in 2 cells, fastening the overlaps with a knitting wire with their own hands. The plane of the installed reinforcing mesh should be located so that after the concrete is laid, it is under a mortar layer of at least 3-4 centimeters. The mesh should also not have stressed areas that, after pouring the concrete, will bend outward from it.

Especially on heaving soils: a special cushion and reinforcement is required

The device of transverse expansion joints

Due to temperature changes, the blind area of \u200b\u200bthe house is subject to significant linear changes size, which is fraught with swelling. Therefore, the technology includes not only the arrangement of a longitudinal expansion joint between the basement and the blind area around the house, but also the installation of additional transverse damping joints in the structure.

To do this, on top of the reinforcement perpendicular to the plinth with a step of 1.5-2.0 m around the building, damping partitions-spacers are installed between the curb stone and the building. The same partitions are installed diagonally at the corners of the basement. Spacers can be made with your own hands from strips of extruded polystyrene foam or boards soaked in used engine oil. The thickness of the strip or board should be 3 cm, the width - the thickness concrete pad, and the length - the width of the blind area in the installed location.

Performing concrete preparation

In the compartments between the damping partitions, flush with their upper edge, concrete is laid with a layer of 5-7 cm, made by hand in volume proportions 2: 4: 8: 1 (M500 cement, sand, crushed stone, water).

Only after completing the previous points, you can start preparing the concrete mixture.

The design slope of the solution surface during compaction and leveling must be made equal to 5%.

After a few hours, the cured concrete around the house is covered with plastic wrap to prevent premature evaporation of water and loss of strength of the base. It is correct to start laying paving slabs in a week, when the concrete will gain approximately 70% strength.

The paving stones of the blind area are laid on cement-sand mortar, made in volume proportions 1:3. On a base area of approximately 0.25 sq. m. a layer of mortar is applied with a thickness of 1-2 cm. The tiles around the building are laid from the curb to the base, that is, from the bottom up, so that it does not slide down the slope. Having laid the tile on the mortar, it is slightly pressed to the base and set in place by tapping with a rubber mallet. A fixed gap of 2-3 mm is left between the tiles. Cutting and fitting pavers are done by hand with a grinder with a dry cutter.

The traditional technology of laying paving slabs on sand base provide surface mobility

Filling paving slabs

Three days after the end of laying the paving stones, they fill the seams of the coating with their own hands. To do this, you need to make a dry cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1: 3, which is poured in portions of half a bucket onto the blind area tile. With a hard broom, the mixture is swept along the plinth around the house, filling the tile joints. After filling all the seams, a gentle watering of the surface with water from a garden watering can is carried out in order to only moisten the dry mixture at the joints.

A day later, the procedure is repeated, but without wetting with water. The mixture should not fill the joints flush with the surface, the joints should be clearly marked. The dry mixture, due to its hygroscopicity, will harden in a week, gaining moisture from the air and fresh concrete base.

To remove excess roofing material, it is necessary to make an incision around the building on the waterproofing along the edge of the paving stones adjoining the basement foam polystyrene. In the same way, excess roofing material is removed from the outside of the curbs.

The blind area is not only protection of the foundation from moisture and freezing, but also decorative element building, giving its appearance completeness and charm. In addition, the blind area is often used as a path along the wall of the house, so the blind area made of paving slabs perfectly fulfills its intended functions.

The advantages of a blind area made of paving slabs or paving stones include:

Good waterproofing and thermal insulation of the foundation;
Long service life;
For its implementation, heavy equipment and cubic meters of concrete are not needed, all work can be done by hand;
There is no need to perform a reinforcing frame;
The blind area of paving slabs looks aesthetically pleasing, with right choice tiles or paving stones fit into any building style;
If necessary, the blind area can be partially disassembled, and then put in place. This is important when repairing communications.

To perform the blind area, you can use almost any paving slabs or paving stones. In addition, you will need:

Border for tiles;
Rolled waterproofing dense film;;
Clay for a hydraulic lock;
Sand;
crushed stone;
Geotextile;
A small amount of cement to fix the joints;
In the presence of drains - collectors and pipes.

Do-it-yourself pavement from paving slabs in a private house usually takes several days off, and most of the time is needed for pouring and tamping the layers. The laying of tiles itself does not take much time.

The technology of making a blind area from paving slabs

The width of the blind area is determined based on the width of the selected tile, taking into account the width of the border. Mark the blind area with a tape measure, pegs and twine and remove the soil to a depth of about 40 cm. If the top layer of soil is clay, it is enough to remove 30 cm.
The bottom of the resulting trench is leveled and a ten-centimeter layer of clay is laid, making a slight slope from the foundation walls to the outside. Clay is carefully rammed. On a site with clay soil, this operation can be omitted.
A layer of durable waterproofing film is laid on the bottom of the trench with an overlap on the foundation above the level of the blind area being erected. The joints of the film with the foundation are treated with a sealant for outdoor use.
Sand is poured over the waterproofing with a layer of 5-10 cm. It is leveled and spilled with water to seal, carefully rammed. For better sealing, the pouring can be repeated several times. In this case, you can not use a jet of water - it erodes the sand.
Pipes are laid from the future sewer collector to a common well. Expose the curb according to the markup and level, temporarily fixing it with wooden pegs.
The trench is covered with a layer of crushed stone with a fraction size of 20-30 mm. The layer of crushed stone is about 10 cm. Its purpose is to create an air cushion that improves the hydro and thermal insulation properties of the blind area. The rubble is also rammed, after which the temporary pegs securing the curb are removed.
The crushed stone is covered with a layer of geotextile. This layer is necessary in order to prevent air gaps in the rubble from silting and falling asleep with sand. In addition, geotextiles prevent the growth of plant roots through the blind area, which can cause the tiles to swell.
A layer of sand 7-10 cm thick is poured over the geotextile. The sand is also shed and rammed, after which it is leveled with a rail so as to create a slope to the outside of 3-6 degrees. For convenience, you can fix an auxiliary bar on the foundation using a level, and laying a leveling rail on it and on the curb, level the sand.
Paving stones or tiles are laid, starting from the foundation wall. It is placed on a sand bed, tapped with a wooden mallet and leveled, slightly recessed into the sandy base. Tiles are adjusted to each other, making sure that there are no voids left. Install a water inlet and a collector for the drain.
The space between the tiles is covered with clean sifted sand and spilled with a spray of water. This operation is repeated several times until all the gaps are filled with tightly compacted sand. To avoid sand washout during rain and germination of plant seeds, you can mix dry sand with dry cement in a ratio of 1:8 or 1:6, and make the final layer of backfill using this mixture. When pouring, the cement will seize, and the gaps between the tiles will not be subject to destruction.
The border on the outside of the trench can be covered with crushed stone below the ground level and, to give it greater strength, fasten the joints with a cement-sand mortar.

A blind area made of paving slabs is not the cheapest way, and the main share of the costs in it falls on the purchase of the tile itself. However, if you have free time, you can make a tile yourself, while its price is two to three times lower.

Production of paving stones and paving slabs

Paving slabs consist of high-quality concrete mortar, consisting of M500 cement, sand, fine-grained filler, plasticizer and color. For its manufacture, special molds are required, which can be purchased under the order from the manufacturer of equipment for the manufacture of paving stones. You can also use custom molds. In addition, for the manufacture of tiles, you will need a vibrating table, the role of which can easily be played by the old washing machine-automatic, included in the spin mode.

Production technology of paving stones and tiles:

Forms are prepared: washed from dust, dried, laid out on a vibrating table. The inner surface is treated with a brush with any dishwashing detergent.
The solution is mixed: cement M500, sand, fine crushed stone are mixed in dry form in proportions 2:2:2. For 15 kg of this mixture, add 30 grams of superplasticizer for concrete, dye, if desired, and dilute with water, mixing thoroughly until a rather thick solution is obtained.
The solution is put into the molds by about half, after which vibration is turned on for 0.5-3 minutes. If a washing machine is used, it must be put into the spin mode at high speeds, after putting a heavy unnecessary wet thing, such as a jacket or a blanket, into the drum. After removing air bubbles, the solution is added to the mold to the upper edge and leveled with a trowel, the vibration is repeated.
Forms with a solution are placed to dry in a dark place, covered with plastic wrap so that the moisture does not evaporate too quickly. After two days, the tiles are removed from the molds, immersing them for 10-20 seconds in hot water temperature is about 70 degrees. After this procedure, with a slight impact on the bottom of the mold, the tile easily leaves.
The resulting tiles are stacked on a flat surface and left for the final curing for 3-4 weeks.

Video - laying paving slabs

One of the elements of the external arrangement of the house, installed on a reinforced concrete foundation, is a blind area. It is a flat tape located along the entire house from its outer side. Today we will talk about how to make a blind area from paving slabs with your own hands.

Appointment blind area

It should be noted that the blind area is not a mandatory element of the building. It can be neglected if the base of the house is or. And for her, they are not always satisfied.

The blind area around the house made of paving slabs or any other material solves a whole range of tasks aimed at improving the operational properties of the entire building as a whole and such an important part of it as the foundation, in particular. With this tape, you can achieve the following results:

prevent the destruction of the foundation of the house under the influence of moisture. After all, the blind area of the house made of paving slabs, concrete or asphalt is ultimately used to drain water from precipitation as far as possible from the walls of the house, which will ensure the protection of the foundation.
reduce the heat loss of the building through its lower underground part in the event that an insulated blind area is made of paving slabs.
Create a decorative, exploitable path around the house that combines protective functions and decorates the exterior of the building and the entire site.

Of course, all of the above results can be achieved only if the technology for performing this type of work is observed and the use quality materials. Let us dwell on the features of the process in more detail.

blind area design

Before moving on to detailed description the manufacturing process, consider what parts the construction of the paving slab blind area consists of. In cross section, it is layered cake, consisting of several mandatory layers, arranged from bottom to top in the following sequence:

Clay layer;
layer of sand;
a layer of rubble;
Again a layer of sand or carving;
Paving slabs.

To improve the moisture-proof properties, all of the listed parts must be rammed with high quality. This can be done manually with the simplest device, but it is better to use a special construction tool - a vibrating plate. In addition to the listed materials, a sufficient amount of geotextile or will be required to construct such a blind area.

The sequence of work on the arrangement of the tiled blind area

Starting to work on the manufacture of the blind area at home, you should prepare the necessary tools. You will need:

Spade bayonet;
Shovel shovel;
Rammer or vibrating plate;
Mallet with a rubber striker.

Having prepared everything you need, we begin to make a blind area. Below is the sequence of work performed.

Marking the trench under the blind area

We start work by marking up so that the tile blind area has the correct geometric parameters. As already noted, it is a tape along the entire base of the house. Its width is selected at least 300 mm more than the value of the roof overhanging the walls, but not less than 900 mm. This is done to ensure the drainage of storm water from the foundation and the convenience of walking.

It is convenient to perform marking on the ground using scraps of steel reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm or wooden pegs. They are driven into the corners of the future trench and covered with strong construction twine with sufficient tension to avoid sagging. It is better to choose a white or red rope - they are better visible against the background of the ground.

trench digging

As noted, the pavement of a house made of paving slabs consists of several layers, the thickness of each of which is 10-15 cm. Together, this gives the necessary and desired depth of trench digging. On average, this figure is 400 mm. Approximately the same parameters are followed in the case when the blind area is made not only with paving slabs, but also with asphalt, pebbles, boulders and other materials.

To obtain a trench inside the space from the marking to the foundation of the house, it is necessary to remove the soil layer to the specified depth. The best tool for this is bayonet shovel. Using any construction equipment impractical. Before starting work, it is necessary to consider the issue of further placement of the excavated soil. It can be distributed over the territory of the site, make high beds or flower beds, rock garden.

It is advisable to carefully level the bottom of the recess for the layered pie of the blind area with a shovel and tamp. It is advisable to give the blind area and each of its rows a slope outward from the house at a slight angle. The norm is a bevel of 5 cm per meter of the width of the structure. In the prepared recess we lay all the layers of the blind area.

Making a clay hydraulic lock

The first layer is high-quality clay with a minimum amount of sand. Builders call it "fat". It has the best waterproofing properties. In the event that the soils in the place where the blind area is laid from paving slabs are clayey, the hydraulic lock is made by carefully tamping the bottom of the trench. For all other types of soil, this layer must be additionally poured.

The thickness of the hydraulic lock is about 100-150 mm. Preliminary moistening of the material is allowed - this will facilitate subsequent compaction and improve its quality. The clay should be compacted in compliance with the slope indicated above, which will ensure a more reliable removal of melt and storm water from the house, and the pavement around the house made of paving stones will last longer.

To achieve better waterproofing, lay a 200 micron polyethylene film over the first layer. To prevent slipping, its inner edge is attached to the foundation with the help of a clamping rail, fixed to the dowel of the nail or to a special sealant. The overlap on the wall must be at least 200 mm. The opposite edge should hang over a layer of clay so that the do-it-yourself blind area performs its main function with high quality.

Laying subsequent layers

On top of the hydraulic lock, it is necessary to lay two layers of sand and a layer of crushed stone, alternating with each other. This is necessary to create a solid foundation for paving slabs. Wet sand is poured directly onto the film with a layer of 10 cm and gently rammed. A layer of crushed stone of the middle fraction is laid on top of it and also compacted manually or with a vibrating plate.

Since the blind area of paving slabs does not have a concrete layer, weeds may grow through it during operation, which will not improve the appearance of the coating. To avoid this and to prevent silting of the lower layers on top of the rubble, it is recommended to lay a layer of another roll building material- geotextile.

Next, the last layer of sand is poured onto the artificial canvas substrate. It will be the basis for laying paving slabs. Often, for this purpose, not pure sand is used, but its mixture with cement, used without subsequent moistening. She received the name of the carving. The advantage of its use is the subsequent setting and fixing of the blind area from the tile, which prevents the elements from being removed.

Installation of a drainage system

An important element in protecting the foundation in the manufacture of blind areas from tiles is the diversion storm water outside the site. For this purpose, a system consisting of drainage wells and drainage pipes is used. Mounting elements drainage system must be carried out before laying paving slabs.

Catchment wells are installed directly under the sockets of the drainpipes. This will prevent pressure water from entering the blind area and erosion of the seams, which is fraught with the removal of tiles during operation. Downpipes are installed from the wells at an angle of inclination of the blind area. Usually, orange plastic sewer lines are used for these purposes.

The same pipes or concrete gutters are laid in the ground along the edge of the blind area of paving slabs, closing the channels from above with special gratings that prevent them from clogging. The system is drained into a sewer, into a septic tank or taken out of the land, towards the natural slope of the area.

Installation of paving slabs

It cannot be said that paving slabs are the most accessible material for the layman. The average cost of elements varies in different regions within 10-15 rubles. To make such a blind area less expensive, the details of the coating can be made by hand from a mixture of sand, cement and water. The technology of the process is not complicated, it is enough just to purchase or make from edged boards enough forms.

The sizes of paving slabs are various. The shape also varies from simple rectangular or diamond to more complex. Particular attention should be paid to the thickness of the parts. For arranging footpaths or laying a foundation of paving slabs, a 40 mm thick material is suitable; for paving access roads, parts with a thickness of 60 mm should be used.

The technology of pavement pavement begins with the selection and laying of the material. It is better to lay out the first row of paving slabs with your own hands from the wall of the house, gradually moving to the edge of the blind area. The main styling tool is a mallet with a rubber striker. The use of other impact tools is not recommended as they may damage the paving slabs.

After finishing the work, the finished blind area around the house wakes up with a carving to fill the seams and is spilled with water by sprinkling from a watering can or hose. To get decorative "green seams" at the tile with your own hands, you can sprinkle it with a mixture of sand or soil with lawn grass. But such delights will require additional care in the future.

So, in particular, do-it-yourself blind area is made of tiles. The technology of the process is not complicated and accessible to everyone. If you are not completely confident in your abilities, get acquainted with how professional workers do it in neighboring areas.

If flat concrete pavement around the house you find it too boring, there are no barriers to pave it with paving slabs. Of course, such coverage causes a number of difficulties, but they are all surmountable. We will describe the technical details of the paved blind area in a step-by-step instruction.

Excavation and planning of soil

In order for the blind area not only to serve as an aesthetic addition to the house, but also to protect the supporting layer of soil under the foundation, it should be arranged only after careful preparation of the foundation. An integrated approach at this stage will ensure high durability of the coating, eliminate uneven subsidence and compensate for the effect of frost heaving.

Blind area scheme: 1 - soil; 2 - foundation; 3 - clay castle; 4 - geotextile; 5 - gravel; 6 - waterproofing; 7 - sand preparation; 8 - geotextile; 9 - paving slabs; 10 - curb

The width of the blind area is on average 50% of the depth of the foundation, taking into account the preparatory layer, but not less than 60 cm. Stepping back from the basement to the width of the blind area and about 5 cm more, you need to hammer in wooden pegs and tighten the lacing. A fertile layer of soil is removed along it, then the bottom of the trench is cleaned and leveled so that its total level is 30 cm below the lowest planned point of the finished coating.

Please note that if the blind area is to be sloped, it should be formed by a layer of backfill. Thus, after excavation of the earth, the bottom of the trench should be in a common horizontal plane. When the bulk of the soil is removed, a recess of 10x10 cm should be dug along the outer edge of the blind area.

Substrate under the blind area

The most difficult task is to properly organize the outflow of water and ensure the safety of the waterproof layer. The first layer of preparation is soft oily clay, homogeneous and without inclusions. The bottom of the trench is covered with a layer of up to 50 mm, and the recess along the edge is also filled. Clay does not serve as the main aquiclude, but it prevents water from leaking in the opposite direction. As a result, the surface should have a slope of about 2-3 cm / m to the outside, the clay itself should be carefully tamped, after soaking it with water.

After the clay layer dries, roll out a needle-punched geotextile over it and sprinkle with crushed stone of a fraction of 15-20 mm with a total layer of 7-10 cm. If the blind area requires a longitudinal slope, it is set precisely by a gravel substrate.

Spread another layer of geotextile over the rubble and backfill with washed sand. The final level should be lower than the finished coating by the thickness of the paving slab plus 20-30 mm. With a layer of sand, the longitudinal slope of the blind area is finally removed, plus a transverse slope towards the ground of the order of 3:100 is set.

As the sand is poured, it must be carefully tamped and spilled with water, achieving the greatest possible density. The finished surface must be carefully drawn by the rule, the tolerance is only 3-5 mm.

Installation of curbstones

When the plane of the sand and gravel bed is carefully leveled and compacted, it is necessary to draw the estimated width of the blind area from the base, using a wooden plank with a nail as a thicknesser. Along this line, a layer of sand is cut with a spatula and the unnecessary residue is discarded onto an adjacent piece of soil. The result will be a groove with a depth of 100-150 mm, into which curb stones will be installed.

It is preferable that this stage of work take place in dry weather. When installing curbstones, it is advisable not to walk on the backfill, so as not to bring down the groove undercut. Curbstones are installed along a common cord, indicating both the distance from the building and the height of the installation. Usually, the stones are arranged according to the sidewalk principle, that is, flush with the main surface.

To equalize the height in the curb groove, you need to add fine gravel and carefully tamp it. The indent in width should be such that a gap of 15-20 mm remains between the cut edge of the backfill and the body of the curb.

Paved coatings are not distinguished by absolute water resistance, part of the water inevitably leaks through them. To remove it, it is necessary to carry out the installation of stones with the laying of sleeves from the sewer PVC pipes 50 mm in diameter. At the junction of stones, their edges should be trimmed with an abrasive wheel; when inserted, the sleeve is fixed in place with cement mortar. The installation sites for the sleeves are optimally located below the level of the adjacent soil.

Waterproofing under the blind area

Residual penetration of moisture under the blind area is prevented by the main water-resistant layer, which is made by an impermeable geomembrane. It can also be a dense HDPE film, and an old banner fabric. To Work with roll materials more convenient - they roll out along the bedding and practically do not require docking. When using banner fabric, its seams should have an overlap of 15 cm with sizing bituminous mastic.

The width of the waterproof sheet should be equal to the distance between the wall and the inner edge of the curb stones, plus another 15-20 cm. From the outside, the waterproof film is inserted into the groove between the curb and the backfill, then turns outward. The rest of the gap is tightly clogged with sand.

Then the canvas needs to be transferred to the backfill, trample well and tuck the edge onto the base. In this place, it is desirable to make a tight fit by smearing the base of the base with bituminous sealant and securing the waterproofing with a metal bar and dowels after 50-60 cm. Fastening is performed only last, when the entire canvas is firmly pressed against the base, and all folds and irregularities are smoothed out.

Which tile to choose

Usually, the same tiles are laid on the blind area that were used when laying the yard cover. But not all types of paving stones are optimally suited for blind areas.

It is advisable to avoid highly embossed paving stones and tiles of complex shape with a large number of thick seams, uneven edges and rounded corners. Ideal flat stones with a thickness of 40-50 mm with right angles. It is recommended to use medium-sized tiles: 12-15 pieces/m2, chamfers are welcome. It is very good if the tiles are purchased even before excavation - this way you can correctly calculate the indentation when installing borders and avoid unnecessary undercuts.

The greatest durability is characterized by paving slabs with a "glossy" surface without texture. On the blind area, the coating dries slowly and is more subject to frost erosion, so water absorption should be minimal.

Laying order

Laying tiles should be planned for a period of dry and clear weather. A 2-3 cm layer of finishing leveling is poured over the waterproofing. For him, a dry mixture of sand and cement grade 400 is prepared in advance in a ratio of 5: 1. The layer must be well compacted and leveled with a rule, because the tiles will be laid exclusively “in a set” without additional mechanical action. As the dry mix is laid, small portions of cement mortar will need to be prepared, so prepare the finishing bed with a small margin.

First of all, a series of drainage trays is laid out immediately under the curbstones. The joint between them is recommended to be filled with a wet cement mortar. The side of the tray, located on the inside of the blind area, is aligned along the lacing to the level of the main cover.

Next, the starting row of tiles from the base is laid out. The wall may have irregularities, so the installation is carried out along the cord, the position of which is calculated according to the size and number of stones, taking into account 2 mm joints. When installing the starting row, it is necessary to fill the space between the stones and the plinth with cement mortar.

Filling the middle part of the blind area is done very quickly. For alignment, use a rule or a flat rail that rests on the starter row and tray. When laying the next stone, apply on its lower edges a small amount of wet mortar, then adjust and shrink with light strokes of a rubber mallet.

When the coating is laid, it remains only to carefully sweep the seams with a mixture of sand and cement 3: 1 and pour over the blind area with a hose, simultaneously washing off the remaining cement dust. On the adjacent soil, you need to dig under the curb to the depth of the shells, then fill the groove with gravel. After the blind area has dried, the remnants of the protruding waterproofing underturn are cut off with a mounting knife flush with the coating.

A good owner will definitely take care of protecting the foundation of his home from moisture and make a blind area around it, and there should be no cracks on its surface, otherwise this work will be useless.

The most accessible in terms of labor intensity and financially is a blind area made of asphalt and concrete - such work can be carried out independently. Although such a coating after laying is characterized by solidity, temperature drops from plus to minus and vice versa provoke the formation of cracks, since the depth of soil freezing significantly exceeds the thickness of the blind area.

Recently, to the fore "promoted" paving slabs and a logical question immediately arises: if the main condition for water resistance is the integrity of the coating, then how is the foundation protected when in large numbers butt joints? The trick lies in the technology of laying tiles.

Tile blind area has become very popular. It is only necessary to choose the right way to lay it, and then moisture will not get between the seams.

When choosing the type of paving slabs that is most suitable for the blind area, you should focus on vibrocasting. Such a tile is almost indistinguishable in appearance from vibropressed, but much stronger and contains a minimum number of small pores. This is a very important quality, since the porous tile will absorb water, which, when frozen in winter, will lead to the gradual destruction of the material.

There are several technologies for laying paving stones, but it is not suitable for a blind area traditional way laying only on a sand cushion - this method is used for paving footpaths, and this option is ineffective for a blind area - sand passes water through itself too easily.

If difficulties do not scare you and it is decided to carry out work on your own, then the main helpers are patience and accuracy. Haste is not welcome here, punctual observance of the technological process is much more important.

What materials and tools are needed for work

Since the blind area will take up a significant area, it will be necessary to calculate the required volume of tiles, adding a certain amount for insurance. Let it be better to have a few tiles left in reserve than to stop work later and look for material desired color and forms.

Scroll necessary tools small, in principle, they are always at hand on the farm: a tape measure and a level, a shovel and a trowel, a grinder, a mop with a floor brush, a manual tamper, buckets and a hose with a sprayer will come in handy.

It is even easier with building materials: you will need sand and cement, clay; if there is no reservoir, then a water tank will be needed, sometimes crushed stone is required

Stage 1: preparatory work

At the first stage, earthworks are carried out - you need to dig a trench under the base of the blind area. Having measured the required number of centimeters from the foundation with a tape measure, pegs are dug in, marking the area for the future blind area.

Substrate preparation for tiling. A trench is dug 20-25 cm deep and a layer of waterproofing is laid

The turf must be removed and then dig a trench to a depth of 20-25 cm, adding the thickness of the tile. Next, its bottom is tightly packed so that in the future the blind area does not sink. You also need to take care of the flow of water, for which a small (2 cm) slope is made.

Stage 2: forming the base

There are two options for the bases for the blind area: it can be two- and three-ball. If, in the first method, the lower layer is made of clay, and the upper layer is made of sand, then crushed stone is first poured into the three-ball base, and then pillows made of clay and sand.

The technology is simple: crushed stone is poured into the dug trench with a layer of 5-7 cm and carefully compacted, then the trench is filled with clay so that the layer thickness is 10 cm and compacted with a rammer. This layer becomes the main waterproofing agent. To achieve 100% water tightness, an insulating material, such as a PVC film, is laid on the clay, tucking one edge in and fixing the film on the foundation wall.

Then comes the turn of the sand cushion: the thickness of this layer is 8-10 cm, the surface is well leveled. In the absence of crushed stone, the thickness of the clay layer is increased by 5-7 cm.

Features of laying the blind area

As in every case, here too there are nuances. It is better to spread the paving stones directly on the sand so that the water seeps freely to the waterproofing layer of clay. If you use a cement-sand mixture, then the permeability of the water will decrease, and this threatens the appearance of ice in winter. In addition, this mixture, turning into a monolith, has the same disadvantages as concrete.

To prepare a sand-cement mixture, sand is taken in a ratio of 4: 1 to cement, a layer of 3-4 cm is laid out on a pillow of sand, leveled with a mop and paving stones are laid away from you, according to the principle brickwork. If required, the elements are cut with a grinder.

The paving stones are laid away from themselves. For best quality laying is done like brickwork, with dressing of seams

The gap between the tiles should be minimal, 1-2 cm will be enough to prevent deformation during the expansion of paving slabs, while maintaining the strength of the masonry.

A rubber mallet will help fix individual elements, but it must be used correctly: put a wooden plank on the tile and press it with a mallet - this is done with each tile.
Using a level, the paving stones are leveled in a row, where necessary, sand or a mixture is poured with a trowel, the protruding parts are upset with a mallet, taking into account the slope of the blind area.

To fix the tiles use a rubber mallet. Using a level, align the tiles in a row, while not forgetting to make the correct slope of the blind area

Final works

Sweeping excess sand and sand-cement mixture from the surface of the paving stones, you need to moisten the tiles with a hose with a spray cold water and leave them for two days, eliminating any pressure. Under the influence of water, the cement will get wet and then seize with the tile, fixing it securely.

Thus, all work on the construction of the blind area around the house is quite feasible on its own. It is enough to have free time, patience and clearly follow the instructions and you will get reliable protection for the foundation of your house and, in addition, decorate adjoining territory beautiful blind area of paving slabs.