Do-it-yourself oak door. A proven way to make doors yourself. wooden door design

31.10.2019

03.09.2016 37876

After erecting the walls of an apartment or private house, the builders move on to the stage of finishing the premises. Already at this stage of construction, it becomes necessary to install an entrance door to protect interior spaces from the negative impact external factors. We also need internal interroom first of all for bathrooms.

What kind of doors can you make yourself

Most homeowners prefer to contact specialized organizations, ordering door structures there or purchasing them in hardware stores. However, there are situations when do it yourself.

Entrance or internal country house and bath.
Temporary entrance door private house.
All in a situation where the budget does not allow you to turn to professionals.
This is an option for people who know how to handle tools and wood.

The best material for making your own door is wood. Such structures can be frame or solid wood.

Advantages and disadvantages

Durability, environmental friendliness, reliability, good material processing ability - these are positive traits these devices.

The negative sides include - high hygroscopicity, as a result of which swelling of the material and warpage of the frame are possible, as well as the need for constant care to maintain a good presentation.

What kind of wood is used as raw material

Having made a decision on independent production building element, the master chooses the material suitable for a particular design.

pine is one of the cheapest materials that can be processed well, but can dry out over time;
alder is also an affordable, light and soft wood, but its ability to dry out must be taken into account;
birch - it combines density and sufficient hardness with viscosity and a beautiful texture, but this material can also deteriorate over time;
oak boards - characterized by high strength and durability, requires skills in woodworking;
beech - it also belongs to hardwoods, and due to its ability to absorb moisture, it requires additional processing;
larch, walnut and maple - the ideal material for a beautiful door, durable and resistant to all influences;
in the premises of expensive apartments or cottages for interior doors use mahogany in the form of veneer.

Door making tool

If you are going to make a door yourself, you need to think about what tool to prepare for this work. There are several options for do-it-yourself products, and each needs its own set of devices. However, there are always necessary sets:

roulette;
chisel;
hacksaw;
a square and a long rigid ruler;
drill;
screwdriver and a set of screwdrivers;
grinding devices;
strong sharp knife for woodworking.

manual circular;
milling machine with manual control;
grinder with grinding wheels for wood.

Door in a budget "shield" design

You can make it yourself from boards with a thickness of 50 mm, without using the special skills of a cabinetmaker. Such a door can be attributed to the budget option, among experts it is called - "with dowels". This may be a temporary structure if it is planned to install a more expensive option at this place in the future. At the same time, she is good for country house or baths suburban area. Its advantage is durability and high strength. In this case, pine doors are the cheapest option.

The size of the door is determined by the opening made during construction. A box is installed in it and after that the necessary parameters of the future door structure are measured.

In width and along the upper edge, it should be 10-15 mm smaller than the size of the box, and along the lower edge, it should be 15-20 mm from the threshold.

On a sheet of fiberboard, laid on a flat surface, the outline of the intended door is applied. Particular attention should be paid to maintaining 90 degrees at all corners of the contour.

For such a design, it is necessary to prepare boards 50 mm thick, pre-treated with a planer. A quarter is selected on both sides of them so that during assembly there are no gaps between the boards.

The width of the boards is calculated in such a way that a multiple number of elements of the same size fit into the selected contour. In this case, the design will look neat.

Having prepared the boards of the required size, it is required to lay them in the contour drawn on the fiberboard sheet, securing the resulting shield with temporary brackets. Then, with the help of an electric saw, cuts are made at the top and bottom of the shield under the dowels prepared in advance. To do this, the saw is set at an angle of 60 degrees. The unnecessary part of the wood is knocked out with a chisel.

The dowels are made from bars and in the standard version have the following dimensions:

on the bottom of the bar on one side 50 mm, on the other 45 mm;
on the upper part - on one side 35 mm, on the other 30 mm.

Thus, a kind of trapezoidal wedge is obtained in profile.

These dowels are inserted into the prepared grooves. The final fastening is done with wooden spikes or glue.

A brace is installed from the right edge of the top key to the left edge of the bottom key. Previously, oblique cuts are made on it for tight installation to the keys. The slope is fastened with spikes or wood screws.

Budget door made of wood and fiberboard

You can make a simple wooden door from a wood frame, filler and fiberboard. For this you will need the following materials.

50mm thick board to make the frame.
Fiberboard sheet - shields for the outer surface are cut out of it.
The filler of the inner surface - it can be a heater from stone wool, pressed corrugated board or other suitable material.

To begin with, a sheet of fiberboard is laid out on a flat surface. After that, the contours of the door are applied to it, clearly maintaining 90-degree angles.

On this contour, a frame is assembled from a fifty-millimeter board. It is assembled in the "thorn - groove" variant, when a through groove is cut in one board, and a spike in the other, suitable in size to the prepared groove. Another option is to select a quarter at the ends of the boards, followed by laying one inside the other.

When assembling the "thorn - groove" fastening is carried out with the help of glue and wooden round spikes. When assembling "in the overlay" - it is better to fix the boards with wood screws.

A wooden plank is inserted in the middle of the door rectangle to ensure the rigidity of the frame. So that the frame does not change the geometry during the further assembly of the door partition, it is necessary to fix it with temporary brackets.

Two sheets are cut out of fiberboard according to the size of the door contour. One sheet is attached with screws to the prepared frame.

The resulting internal voids are filled with the selected filler. After that, the second sheet is attached to the frame on the other side.

If necessary, fittings are installed in the prepared door - handles and latches.

Such a homemade wooden door is installed at the entrance to the bath and toilet, or as another interior partition.

Paneled door structure

Production is possible in paneled execution. It's over hard way. The person who undertakes such work must have certain skills in woodworking.

Pine panel doors are best option at homemade. Pine - more cheap material, at the same time, the board from it is easy to process and is durable.

Components of a paneled canvas: frame or strapping, mullions, panels.

made of wood with your own hands begins with the manufacture of the strapping, which is the frame of the entire structure. Strapping bars come in different thicknesses. If their thickness is about 44 mm, then they are connected using the tongue and groove method into one spike. With a thickness of the frame bars up to 54 mm - pairing in two spikes, and with thicker bars - in three. The fastening of the bars is done on glue using round wooden spikes.
Centerpieces are bars of the same thickness as the strapping. Their number depends on the design of the canvas and can be from one to three. In some cases, in addition to the transverse mullions, a longitudinal mullion is installed. These elements strengthen the door system and in addition, panels are fixed in them. The mullions are connected to the strapping also in the "thorn - groove" variant.
Panels are made of solid wood, plywood, and special reinforced glass. You can fasten the panels in the strapping and mullions different ways- in a quarter without layouts, with the help of self-tapping screws; in a deeper quarter with layouts that hold the panel in the web structure, the layouts are fixed with self-tapping screws; into a blind groove.

This is done due to the fact that the wooden door leaf can absorb moisture or dry out, depending on the season.

If the master has artistic skills, then panels can be made with patterns.

After final assembly paneled door leaf he must be given a few days to "lie down" so that possible errors in the assembly can be identified. Then the canvas is painted or decorated in another accessible way.

Attention! When painting, you need to pay attention to one feature. After applying the first coat of paint or varnish, fluff appears on the wooden surface, forming a surface roughness. When the paint dries, a fine-grained sandpaper must be passed over the wooden surface. The door becomes smooth and you can safely apply the second layer.

So, it is quite possible to make a wooden door with your own hands. The main thing is to correctly assess the abilities and capabilities, correctly choose the raw materials, and in the manufacture of the door structure, exercise accuracy and safety precautions. Anyway, wood soft material, and the tool for its processing is used especially sharp.

Any home requires protection from the outside world with its views, cold, noise. This task is performed by a metal or wooden front door. The modern market offers various models, but many men can do it themselves without spending a lot of money.

Any room should be equipped with a high-quality entrance door. The photo shows a version of the wooden model.

Do-it-yourself entrance wooden door is the topic of our article. Is it possible to make a high-quality door construction at home? What is required for this? Is it good for home protection?

Do-it-yourself entrance wooden door: different technologies

It is installed on any building, even utility rooms. It can be a gate, wooden in a bathhouse, a barn and, of course, in a house. Facades from the array are panel or solid (paneled). Each structure is made of solid or prefabricated wood.

Panel doors are the easiest to make with your own hands. Having in stock:

carpenter's tools;
several boards of the same size;
bars;
nails;
loops;
self-tapping screws.

You can assemble the product in a couple of hours. Consider design features shield input model.

Shield front door: different ways of making your own hands

The design is pretty simple. At the heart is a shield assembled from boards of equal width, length, thickness. The blanks must be processed so as not to splinter hands during manufacture and use. If there are boards of different lengths, they must be sawn to the desired size. For the shield, you can use a solid sheet of plywood or chipboard, if the block is further ennobled.

The panel door can be assembled in different ways. Dowels and strut - one of the options for attaching the canvas.

For assembly, you will need a beam, which will be sawn into parts for strapping: dowels, strut.

Dowels are horizontal elements to which the shield is attached. There should be two dowels for the top and bottom of the shield.
The strut is a connecting element that is installed against the dowels diagonally. If the entrance wooden door is made of boards, the brace will ensure that the proportions of the structure are preserved. The canvas will not lead and will not warp.
If you use only dowels to stiffen the door, they will have to be installed around the perimeter of the shield, which will increase the load on the hinges and the frame.

Choose the right loops. Their range is quite large. Consider the opening method (right or left) and the weight of the canvas. The hinges must be secure.

Prepare the lock and handle for installation on the canvas after assembling the structure. The choice depends on its functionality. She will protect the house, bathhouse, barn, garage.

We prepare the material according to previously made measurements of the entrance opening.

Pick up boards of the same size, lay them out on the floor and connect them into a single sheet with dowels and a strut.

We lay out the parts on the floor and proceed to assembly.

The traditional way to assemble a panel door is to connect the elements with nails and a hammer.
Modern technologies make it possible to speed up the process and ensure better adhesion of the boards to the bars. Take a drill, screwdriver and wood screws of the right size. Assemble the shield into a single door, checking all the stages with a level and a tape measure.
In the old days, experienced carpenters assembled the product without nails, making a special gash in the boards for installing dowels in the recess. This technology requires experience in handling locksmith items and a good eye.

Do-it-yourself entrance construction from solid sheets

Panel types of facades also include sets assembled from solid sheets. Let's take plywood as an example.

We cut sheets and timber according to the dimensions of the opening.
We do the strapping of dowels around the perimeter.
By surprise, we fix the strut diagonally of the box.
We fix the outer sheet of plywood to the frame.
We lay the insulation, the insulating layer inside the future door.
We sew the frame with a second sheet of plywood. The whole panel structure is ready.

The facing material can be any building sheet that can give an aesthetic appearance.

A panel door can be assembled without nails if you know how to handle milling tools and have a good eye.

A wooden panel door requires treatment with agents against rot and moisture. After all, the tree, in its properties, is influenced environment from which must be protected in order to prolong the service life. You can use colorless varnish or special paint for wood.

After the assembly is finished. You can safely make installation in the opening. (see Installing a wooden door).

Such a door structure is not reliable due to the weakness of the facade. For a thorough protection of the house from strangers, a more modern and durable wooden entrance door is required. It can also be made with your own hands, but with more effort and using a stronger array. Consider a panel door.

DIY paneled door

A paneled door is a more serious design for an entrance opening. It can be installed both in a private house and in an apartment.

Paneled doors are more reliable for the entrance opening. May have different appearance.

It consists of a bar around the entire perimeter, called the strapping. It has a special groove on one inner side, a profile for insertion. The inner part of the canvas is a panel made of solid wood, plywood, thin chipboard. The insert may be;

whole / composite;
smooth/convex;
deaf / with glass.

It is placed in the groove of the box or using a special decorative overlay, which is attached with glue (mainly used in construction with glass).

When making a paneled door, use quality wood.

When producing a paneled facade with your own hands, take a tree of a denser texture so that the door does not lead over time, it does not swell or crack due to temperature changes. Pine is often used as more available material, but it is advisable to take oak, cedar, larch.

Having decided on what it will be, we buy everything you need:

timber for horizontal and vertical strapping racks;
insert in accordance with the desired facade pattern;
accessories;
fasteners;
finishing materials and means.

Let's start assembling with our own hands.

Wooden paneled door assembled. The matter remains with the processing of wood with special compounds, varnish or paint.

Works with glass insert and typesetting panels

Choosing an entrance wooden door with glass or a complex panel pattern, the assembly process can become a little more complicated.

The glass needs an additional frame, which will ensure the stability of the glass in the frame. You can fix it in the old-fashioned way, using glazing beads, small nails or glue. But it is better to use the inner crate, which has a different pattern of openings.

The glass insert requires additional lathing so as not to fall out of the profile when strong blow.

The crate is made of thin bars, fixed to the main harness. Next comes the glass. The edge can be additionally treated with silicone to make it more reliable. From above, the glass is closed with a symmetrical overlay, which is attached to liquid nails or silicone.

A special approach is also necessary for paneled doors, the insert of which is assembled from separate planks into a special lock. Drawing can be varied. It is better to buy such blanks in ready-made than to customize each groove and profile by yourself. Usually, when assembling, it is necessary to add a central vertical beam into which the inlaid elements of the insert will be inserted.

For the rest, the production of a panel-type wooden entrance door with your own hands is carried out according to the algorithm described above.

Any wooden door can be assembled with your own hands, if you have a great desire and ability to use tools.

It is especially worth noting that we manufacture the front door, which should reliably protect against cold and noise. When designing a door block, consider the thickness of the beam so that two panels (external and internal), an insulating layer, and a heater can enter the groove. So you provide the house with a quality door.

If the wooden entrance door is too thin, the canvas must be insulated, to hide the cracks from the penetration of drafts. If there is a desire to preserve the appearance of the door from the outside, we produce insulation from the inside in any convenient way:

sheathe with leather;
lay a layer of thermal insulation inside the strapping and cover it with a sheet of plywood or thin chipboard on top (use the tips from our article “How to insulate the front door”).

Having considered several production methods, a do-it-yourself wooden entrance door becomes available to any man who wants to create comfort in the house on his own. Additionally, we recommend watching a video instruction on how to make a wooden entrance door at home.

Construction of residential or country house is always associated with high material costs. To save money, many types construction works trying to do it by hand. How realistic is the independent production of street entrance doors? In today's article - a master class on making a wooden outer door with your own hands. To help the master, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with photos and videos on this topic.

Exterior doors made of wood - do-it-yourself production

To begin with, it is worth recalling that a wooden door consists of two main elements: the door leaf and. In addition to the basic structures made of wood, for normal functioning doors required: handles, hinges, metal fasteners.

For the manufacture of a wooden front door, lumber will be required: timber for tying the box; boards; bars; wide board for the threshold (if provided); platbands. To insulate the door leaf, a heater may be required. It is necessary to carry out work on the manufacture of doors using various tools:

roulette;
construction level;
hacksaw, a set of chisels;
sandpaper for grinding;
fixture.

Carpentry glue, fittings, chipboard - these materials should be prepared in advance before starting work on the door.

Advice! When choosing lumber for the manufacture of a door block, you should pay close attention to the quality of the wood, the presence of knots, the degree of humidity, and geometric dimensions. The wood must be dried, otherwise deformation changes are possible after the door is made.

Panel door panels

These are fairly simple structures, assembled from separate boards, equal in parameters: length, thickness, width. After carrying out the mandatory measurements to determine the dimensions of the door leaf, you should proceed to the preparation of boards for the door. The material is sawn to the desired size, processed with sandpaper. If the shield door from individual boards is finished with chipboard, then a blank of the required size is cut out of the sheet.

To assemble the door leaf, strapping bars should be prepared - dowels and a strut. The dowels are used to secure the shield assembled from the boards, they are installed at the bottom and top of the door leaf. In total, 2 dowels are required. The brace is installed diagonally of the door, the part prevents premature distortions and deformations of the door structure.

Then the plank blank is sheathed with chipboard, if provided additional finishing door leafs.
To hang the door, it is necessary to choose reliable, durable hinges that can withstand the weight of the leaf and multiple openings of the door leaf.

Advice! When choosing hinges, it is necessary to take into account the direction of opening the door (to the left or to the right).

Assembling a panel wooden door from pre-prepared boards is as follows:

Cut and sanded parts are laid out on the floor.
With the help of a hammer and nails (self-tapping screws and a screwdriver), the boards are assembled into a shield, at the same time they strengthen the canvas with dowels and a strut.

Advice! When assembling a shield door, it is necessary to carry out control measurements with a level and a tape measure.

Panel doors include structures assembled from whole sheets of plywood or chipboard, with a gasket inside the insulation layer.

Chipboard sheets prepared to size, timber, dowels and struts are connected in the following sequence:

A frame is assembled from beams.
Dowels are installed along the perimeter of the box, diagonally a brace beam.
The outer sheet of plywood or ICE is fixed on the frame, a heater is inserted inside, the second side of the door is closed with a prepared chipboard sheet.
After completing the assembly of the door leaf, hinges are hung on the door structure and door fittings are mounted.

Paneled doors

Paneled doors are more reliable designs of entrance doors, while they have a high degree of decorativeness. The base of the door consists of a high-quality timber, which is called a strapping. The central part of the door is an insert made of wood, plywood, chipboard (actually a panel). The paneled insert is strengthened in the strapping grooves, which are provided for when cutting the timber.

Panels can be solid or composite, while they can have decorative elements or glass inserts. Carpenter's glue is used to securely fasten the panel in the grooves.

Advice! In the manufacture of a paneled door, preference should be given to coniferous wood (pine, cedar, larch). Oak board is great for making panel doors, only the cost of oak wood is very high.

For the manufacture of a paneled door, you should prepare:

timber for strapping racks;
panel;
accessories;
fixture.

The tools needed are the same as in the case of the manufacture of a panel door.

The bars pre-cut to size are connected into a single frame: grooves are provided in the strapping bars to strengthen the panel. Places for strengthening hinges, door handles, locking devices can be strengthened by setting additional bars.

The assembled paneled part is strengthened in the grooves, fixed with glue. It is allowed to strengthen the panel by installing glazing beads, although this method does not guarantee a strong and durable connection. The finished door leaf is hung in the door frame in the same way as a panel door.

Exterior doors with glass inserts - it is allowed to insert glass inserts into the entrance doors. To do this, you should carefully measure the dimensions of the insert, and cut the sheet of glass in accordance with these dimensions. For the installation of glass inserts, it is required to perform additional framing of the frame for the installation of glass, and also use glazing beads to strengthen it.

With minimal woodworking skills, you can save a lot of money by making your own front door.

Making wooden entrance doors: video

Do-it-yourself wooden door for a house: photo

The modern market offers doors from various materials, but wooden ones are still the most popular. They are installed in residential premises and outbuildings. There are a variety of options, differing in complexity and method of manufacture. For a bathhouse and a barn, ordinary panel boards are suitable, and the entrances are made with panels.

Homemade doors are available for execution at home. Should have quality material and necessary tools. They make simple drawings and get to work. The process takes place step by step, in which the instructions will help beginners.

Features of products of different types

The wooden door does not lose its popularity due to the warmth of the material, environmental friendliness and amazing natural beauty. Elite specimens and the simplest ones are made from boards, but of different quality and purity of processing. Each type of wood also has certain properties.

Starting to manufacture, it is determined where the product will be installed. Door leaves have different types of construction, each of which is most suitable for specific purposes. You should familiarize yourself with what each type is.

From solid wood

The material is thick tongue-and-groove or planed boards, which are connected in one plane, forming a flat surface. It turns out a shield, the individual elements of which are fastened together by horizontal or inclined jumpers, which makes the structure more rigid.

Use a wood of uniform quality, considering the place of installation. For the front door to the house choose a dense, with a beautiful textured pattern.

It has these qualities:

1. Oak - the most durable, heavy and durable products are obtained from it. The material is difficult to process, but is little affected by changes in humidity and temperature.
2. Walnut - inexpensive wood with a beautiful original structure, which is given any shade. Perfectly polished, in which no other breed can be compared.
3. Ash - has a wide range of shades. The strength is not inferior to oak, very elastic.
4. Cherry - much softer, easy to process. A beautiful pinkish-brown color that darkens over time.

For interior doors, boards from the same species, as well as less valuable ones, are used. Operating conditions are much easier, so pine is often used. It is affordable, but very sensitive to changes in humidity and temperature. Products made from it often dry out or swell, but in a stable microclimate it is quite an acceptable material.

Alder has excellent qualities. It is resistant to water, but these are not all the advantages - wood contains many tannins that have a beneficial effect on human health, and there are no resins at all. This has long been appreciated, the doors from it are excellent for baths and in all places where high humidity. In addition to the listed breeds, others are also used, but they always take into account the properties and conditions so that high-quality products come out.

Panel models

For the manufacture of doors with their own hands, boards or timber are used, but in modern conditions, material obtained by gluing lamellas is often used. After finishing with veneer, it acquires the texture of natural wood. It is quite difficult to visually distinguish from an array with high-quality performance.

The design has a rigid frame made of glued laminated timber or thick floorboards. Separate elements are fastened with spikes, but now dowels are used more. When creating a door, consider important points:

the strength of the canvas depends on the number of transverse parts;
panels are installed in the frames, which are two-thirds thinner;
the material is boards, plastic, MDF, plywood, glass;
fixed with natural or veneered glazing beads, which gives the product a finished aesthetic appearance.

Ways to design paneled doors are practically unlimited. Their design is the most diverse, able to decorate any apartment. The canvas in the main part is of small thickness, so the most rational application is installation between rooms.

Durable materials are used for manufacturing, products serve no less than from an array. Of particular value are specimens made of one natural tree or decorated with the same veneer.

Panel structures

This is a budget option with a low price, which is due to the use of low-value wood species, fiberboard, laminate. If made qualitatively, the products have a completely acceptable appearance, which depends to a large extent on the lining. There are three types of construction:

solid ones are completely filled with timber, which are fastened together;
hollow ones consist of a frame, cross members sheathed with sheet material;
low-hollow - an intermediate option between the previous two.

The appearance is drastically improved by the use of linden or alder plywood for covering. Requires two layers of 24 mm. This is good foundation for decorative finishes that do not deform. The cladding is supplemented with profile overlays.

The ends are made neat and solid, using a smooth, well-finished timber, the color and texture of which corresponds external design. If natural veneer is used, its layers are laid perpendicular to each other. Decorative plywood fibers are also arranged in a similar way.

Depending on the quality of the finish, panel doors are installed as interior doors, in a wardrobe, a bathroom, and a utility room. They are easily hacked, so they can only be used as input temporarily.

Preparation for work - materials, tools

The first step is choosing the right wood. It must meet the requirements:

have no knots at all or very few;
be well dried, with a residual moisture content of 12-15%;
flat surface - check the fit of the sidewalls;
optimal thickness - 50 mm for the front door, from 25 - interior.

Boards are sanded before use. Deciduous and conifers. For front doors, hard ones are used - oak, beech, walnut, in other cases - mostly soft ones.

Surface finishing is carried out different ways: natural, artificial material, varnishes and paints are used.

Of the tools you will need:

Manual frezer. They are given a profile look to the elements, grooved joints are made.
Portable circular saw. She cut the bars into blanks of the required size.
Bulgarian with a grinding wheel. You can use a drill with a nozzle for this purpose, but the processing is of less quality.
Screwdriver for assembling the door leaf.
Carpenter's hand tools - measuring, mallet, hammer, chisel, square and more.

Production of solid wood doors

At the heart of any model is a shield made of boards, properly assembled so that it does not lead. Various types of strapping are used: Z- or X-shaped, double, triple. Scope of application is different: front door, interroom, for utility rooms. If it is intended for an apartment, grooved boards are used, they achieve a perfectly flat and smooth surface. A drawing is applied to the canvas, a relief is cut out with a router. For the bath and in the barn, they simply adjust the elements, fix the crossbars in the form of the letter Z at the back.

Getting started, mark the material and cut off the workpieces of the required length. Then they are placed in a shield, placing them so that the annual rings are directed in one direction. For grooved boards, a spike is cut off in the extreme element, the end is processed. Connect with wood glue and a lock. The assembled product is clamped with clamps and left to dry. After a few days, sand to a perfectly smooth surface.

If desired, the door is made up of several layers of boards, gluing each next perpendicular to the previous one. In this way, a massive structure is obtained, suitable for entering the house. The thickness allows you to choose a deep embossed pattern with a cutter that will decorate the product.

Next, you need to fasten the shield with strapping. The simplest type is three crossbars. Cut off bars equal in length to the width of the door. On the canvas, on the reverse side, places are marked for the grooves - finished parts are applied and outlined with a pencil. Mark the depth, which is chosen in ½ or ⅟3 of the thickness of the board. According to the marks, grooves are selected with a milling cutter. It makes them perfectly even, the bars will fit into place easily, but tightly. They move, tapping with a mallet. Apply glue first.

front side if desired, decorate with a relief pattern. It is applied with a pencil, you can use templates. They use knives of various configurations, which are alternately installed on the tool, slowly choosing a pattern.

The door leaf is treated with antiseptic agents. If it is installed outdoors, it is additionally used with a water-repellent effect. When you want to change the color, artificially age, use a stain. It is applied to the tree until the desired darkening appears. Extra cover clear varnish.

Ready product hung on loops. From the array, it is heavy, third-party help will be needed. When installing in a doorway, leave gaps as shown in the figure. The parameters apply to any type of canvas.

Products with panels - an affordable way

These are the most complex designs, but if you use ready-made panels-inserts from laminated chipboard, the process will be simplified. It is easy to make such doors with your own hands step by step, guided by the recommendations. But first, drawings of individual elements are prepared indicating the exact dimensions. Using them, there will be no problems with the installation of individual parts into a single whole.

Such models are most suitable as interior. They buy boards with a thickness of 25 mm or more, high-quality, but the breed is not necessarily expensive. Budget pine will serve well indoors, because the climate here is constant.

1. Armed with a grinder with a grinding wheel and carefully polish the material. Only a wide surface is processed, the sidewalls will subsequently be formed by the cutter. She cut off the sharp edges of the corners, but quite a bit, giving a beautiful look.
2. Change the knife and select a groove along the entire length of the board on one side. Its width is equal to the thickness of the chipboard, usually 16 mm. Strictly adhere to the size and center of the butt. The optimal depth is 15–20 mm.
3. With a hand saw, cut the ends at 45 ° on all four boards. You should be very careful about two things: accurately adhere to the size and angle of cutting. The side racks of the frame, according to the standard, have a height of 200 cm, and the upper and lower crossbars correspond to the width of the web.
4. Cut out the chipboard for the panel. Its dimensions are calculated according to internal size opening to which double the depth of the groove is added. If desired, intermediate partitions are installed, in which recesses are also selected along the entire length, and small spikes are made at the ends.
5. The assembly is very simple: boards are stuffed onto the stove with a mallet, no glue is used. They are convinced that everything has fallen into place, there are no gaps, deviations from the parameters, distortions. Holes are drilled and confirmations are installed - a special metal mount, which is located below and above.

The door with panels is ready, you can start finishing. But all fittings are installed in front of it - locks, handles, hinges, so as not to damage the decorative coating later.

Panel variant for various applications

The most simple design within the power of almost everyone who has necessary material and a good tool. The scope of work depends on the chosen model and purpose. If this sliding door coupe type, special attention is paid to the quality of finishes and materials. Work begins with the frame, then the interior space is filled - all or partly. For the frame, blanks are cut from boards 30 × 120 mm. Their dimensions correspond to the future canvas.

To connect, use the simple half-tree method. At the edges on each side, mark the width of the parts, make cuts with a hand saw to half the thickness. Wood is carefully selected with a chisel. Work is performed on a flat surface, check the corners. The grooves are smeared with glue and connected, left without shifting. After drying, they are fastened with dowels, drilling holes of 8 mm.

One side is covered with sheet material. Cheap fiberboard is suitable for the first layer. A frame is laid on it, marked and cut off. The frame is removed, glue is applied to the panel, both parts are pressed and left to dry. For strength, you can insert additional partitions. After drying inner part fill with various waste - pieces of wood, MDF and the like. All are glued together, a second sheet is installed on the reverse side.

decorative trim It is applied taking into account where the door will be used. If it is interior, decorate with veneer, laminate or use other available options. The trim cut to size is glued to the fiberboard. It is desirable to lay a press on top, for example, sandbags, tiles. Sliding structures are made hollow so as not to weigh them down. They require special hardware to install.

Another way is to use racks. They are fixed with self-tapping screws, the hats are hidden under sawdust mixed with glue. Polished after drying. The ends and corners are also paid attention - they are processed with a cutter to give a finished look.

If you need to install handles, locks, think about it in advance. Perhaps the body of the side frame bar is not enough. Then, at the place where the fittings are inserted, a good quality wooden piece is glued.

Entrance wooden door to a private house, photo

The entrance wooden door can be made by anyone with the right hands. Doors are one of the main elements for the interiors of most buildings.

They have certain functions: protection from unwanted visitors, heat preservation, protection from unnecessary noise, etc. Such structures are now increasingly made of metal, but the internal ones are almost always wooden.

Let's take a closer look at the manufacturing process itself.

Briefly what will be discussed:

Dowels
Paneled
Blocks
Block mount
platbands
Pins
Hinge installation
Types of loops
gaps
Regulation
Locks

Dowels

how to do

The main structural elements for doors are boards that form a panel, dowels in the amount of two pieces and a strut. It is located diagonally and serves as protection against distortions.

Usually the slope and dowels are knocked out on the panel. For this, bars are used. In more complex cases, the dowels cut directly into the boards. For these purposes, the keys are made according to the dimensions as in the figure.

Cuts are made with circular electric saws, exposing them under necessary slope(about 60 degrees).

Paneled

The outer side can be either simple or embossed. The corners of the platbands form a "mustache" at 45 degrees. At the beginning, vertical platbands are sawn and leveled.

Then a casing (horizontal) is substituted under their upper part. The angle is marked with a pencil on one side, sawed off. Then, too, is done with a different angle.

Do-it-yourself wooden entrance doors are fastened with trim nails or self-tapping screws.

Pins

The most common defects are buckling due to dry material. If there are pins, then in case of warping, it will not crumble. The absence of pins is unacceptable.

loops

Making entrance wooden doors with your own hands, you can not do without hinges. There are more than 20 types of loops (see). The height of the hinges can vary from 30 to 40 cm. For home doors, 75-150 cm is enough.

The most common are semi-hinged removable ones, consisting of two cards (one with a rod, the other without). Sometimes hinged hinges are used. Loops can be left and right, as well as universal.

gaps

Before installing the hinges, the panel is laid so that there is no gap between the opening and it along the hinge line. To do this, use scraps of hardboard or identical slats, placing them so as to have a uniform gap.

The hinges cut at a distance equal to their height, measured from inner corner framework. If there are spikes in that place, you need to step back 1 cm from them.

After installing the gaskets, measuring the distance at which the loops will be, the cards are outlined with a pencil along the contour. Nests for loops are selected with a chisel based on the depth of thickness. The surface of the hinges should be flush with the door panel, as well as the bar of the rack.

Helpful advice! Door hinges are attached with self-tapping screws. If colored self-tapping screws are used, then you need to know that they are fragile. Black wood screws are better hardened, more durable.

Door adjustment

If they eventually begin to close loosely or creak with a creak, they need to be adjusted. Adjustment (see) consists of lubricating the loop, tightening the screws, replacing them with longer ones, installing the wedges in the holes (if they are loose).

Lubricants are thick and solid consistency: pieces of graphite rod, grease, lubricants. After removal or as a result of lifting it, it is necessary to push grease into the loop hole in a certain amount. If after a while the grease begins to stand out from the loops, then it was put too much.

Sometimes they sag a lot, clinging to the floorboards. In order to eliminate this, it is necessary to place washers of a certain thickness of the inner and outer diameter between the loop cards.

You can also rearrange the hinges higher, or plan the lower end of the door leaf. Planing should be done moderately in order to maintain a minimum gap with the allowable humidity of the room.

When making entrance wooden doors with your own hands, you need to keep in mind that if gaps have formed between the panels of the panel, they need to be glued and puttied, or sorted out, or covered with planks.

Helpful advice! To avoid hitting the door with a door leaf or handle against the wall when opening, a buffer (stop) must be fixed to the floor. The farther it is from the hinges, the better.

About door locks

It is better if there is no lock, but there is. If properly fitted, the handle will be enough to close the door with a good tightness. If the door opens a little, a leather heel is stuffed on it.

The heel is stuffed with the required thickness on the panel closer to the handle, or on the upper end. The handle must be attached to the harness, but not to the panel board, as this will be stronger. When installing the handle, it is taken away from the opening so as not to injure the hand.

Locks are installed on the outer doors. The most commonly used are padlocks with eyelets, as well as overhead and mortise locks. The easiest option is hanging, but they are less reliable.

Also, chains, closers, hecks, bolts, eyes and other elements can be installed on external doors.

Assembling a wooden door with your own hands

Choice of door material

Before you make a wooden door with your own hands, you need to choose the material. For these purposes, it is best to use wood species that are durable, but at the same time easily processed. These include:

type of wood	Peculiarities
Pine	Among the advantages, one can single out such points as: Low price; Ease of processing; Light weight; Moisture resistant. The only thing to note is that pine can dry out over time, so it is not always appropriate.
Alder	It is also easy to handle and light in weight. The only thing is that alder must be carefully treated with antiseptic compounds, as it is highly susceptible to decay.
Birch	Sufficiently hard and dense wood with a beautiful texture.
Oak	It is a very strong and durable wood, however, difficult to work with. In addition, oak is quite expensive.
Beech	Strong and durable rock, resistant to mechanical stress. The only thing when making doors from beech, it should be borne in mind that this wood is susceptible to moisture. Therefore, it requires special processing.
Larch	It is a strong and durable material, resistant to moisture. The only drawback of larch is the rather high cost.
Maple	It has good strength and is easy to process. Among other advantages of maple, moisture resistance can be distinguished.

Note!
If you want to make wooden doors to the bathhouse with your own hands, then it is better to use linden, since this wood does not emit resin when heated.

I must say that special impregnations allow changing certain qualities of wood.

Therefore, the main selection criteria are usually:

First of all, you need to cut a sheet of fiberboard, which should fit the door frame in size.
Along the perimeter, the sheet is sheathed with boards. If a milling cutter is available, profiles should be made to connect the boards to each other according to the tenon / groove principle. You can attach the boards to the chipboard with self-tapping screws and wood glue.
Then stiffening ribs are mounted in the center in the same way.
Further, on both sides, the product is sheathed with plywood and veneer as a finishing coating..

There is another technology for the manufacture of a panel structure that uses insulation. For its manufacture, you will need boards 25 mm thick and at least 50 mm wide, as well as plywood sheets.

Production of insulated doors

So, a warm wooden door with your own hands is made in the following sequence:

First, from the boards you need to make a frame, which is a frame and crossbars in the middle. Braces can also be used to give more rigidity.
Further, plywood is attached to the frame on one side.
Then a heat insulator is placed in the frame, and the product, on the other hand, is sheathed with sheet material.

The panel structure is much more difficult to implement, as it consists of many parts. Therefore, it is better to take up its manufacture after gaining experience in the manufacture of simpler products. True, after the manufacture of all the elements, the paneled door is assembled as a designer, without any difficulties.

Panel door design diagram

According to the device, it resembles a window frame, as it consists of a frame (strapping) and panels that fill the space of the frame.

Advice!
Since the door is a collapsible structure, when any part of it becomes unusable, repairs can be made wooden doors with your own hands, replacing the damaged element with a new one.

So, the process of its manufacture is as follows:

Mounting

measurements. Before buying products, measure the width and height of the opening (see). If the finish flooring missing, add its planned height to the calculations.
. After laying out the details of the box on the floor, view the presence of everything you need. Take measurements again. Don't forget, one mistake and the job will go down the drain. Glue the parts at the corners, securing them with self-tapping screws.
Foaming. Place the box in the opening. Fix the frame with wedges at the corners and in the center. Check the level of the installed frame. Install rigid spacers opposite the wedges. Then fill the gaps between the wall and the box with foam.
Mounting. Wait for the foam to dry, after 12 hours you need to remove its protruding pieces. Then remove the wedges, remove the spacers. Now it's the turn of the platbands. Saw down the pre-required length at an angle of forty-five degrees, drill holes for the nails. Attach the platband to the opening, fix it with finishing nails. The door can be hinged.
Pens. After completing all the work, it remains to fasten the handles. better in advance.