List of compounds of metals and plastics of heating pipes. Do-it-yourself welding of metal and plastic heating pipes. Docking pipes using press fittings

18.10.2019

During a major or current repair the question often arises - how to connect a plastic pipe with a metal one, which is associated with the need to replace worn-out sections of communications of various lengths. A similar problem may also appear during the construction of a private household - when connected to centralized engineering systems. Correct joining of pipes made of various materials, is not inferior in reliability to the connections of identical pipes, so it is important to find out in advance how to connect dissimilar sections.

Before you connect a plastic pipe to an iron one, you need to know that both metal and plastic pipes can be made of different materials. Differences in their specifications ah should be taken into account when connecting.

metal pipes are made from:

copper,
cast iron
become.

Plastic - from:

polyethylene,
polypropylene,
metal-plastic.

Cases of connecting dissimilar pipes

Some of the cases where a connection is needed plastic pipes with metal, described above. In most cases, systems installed a certain time ago turn out to be metal. Currently, plastic is chosen not only because of its reasonable price and good technical characteristics, but also because of the large selection of pipe and fitting sizes that make it easy to find components of any configuration for replacement.

Sometimes pipes made of various materials (metal and plastic) are used when installing the system from scratch. For example, when laying an outdoor section of water supply or sewerage of a private house, sometimes it is necessary to lay pipelines under a car entrance or parking lot. The dynamic load on the soil surface during the movement of vehicles will be transferred to communications located in the ground. It is recommended to install metal pipes in these areas, however, the use of metal for the installation of the entire system is not economically feasible and less practical.

Methods for connecting metal pipes with plastic

There are two ways to connect plastic pipes with metal pipes that are used for steel pipelines.

Threaded connection used in cases where the diameter of the connected pipes does not exceed 40 mm.
Flange connections are optimal for large diameters, since it is difficult to tighten the thread in such cases.

Features of threaded connections

In order to understand how to connect a plastic pipe to a metal pipe using a thread, you should study the fittings used for this purpose. They are adapters, on the one hand, on which there is a thread for connecting a metal pipeline and a smooth sleeve for soldering plastic pipes on the other. There are also models for connecting more dissimilar lines, as well as fittings for making turns and bends.

The threaded connection of steel and plastic (polypropylene) pipes is carried out in a certain sequence.

The junction is being prepared from the side of the existing metal communications. If there was already a threaded connection in this place, it is untwisted. If the pipes were welded or the place of installation of the plastic insert is the middle of the whole steel pipe, the latter is cut, after which lubricant is applied to the edge and thread is made using a thread cutter.
The end of the threaded steel pipe is cleaned and a sealing material is applied to it: tow or fum-tape with silicone grease. In order to eliminate the possibility of leaks, it is important to properly seal - lay no more than 1-2 turns of winding with the direction along the thread.
The threaded edge of the fitting connects to the metal thread. In this case, you should not only not use special tools, but also do not over-tighten the connection manually. Excessive force may cause the fittings to crack. It will not be difficult to additionally tighten the thread if, after installation, a leak is detected during a test filling of the system.
After completion of work with the threaded part of the connection, a plastic pipe is fixed on the smooth coupling of the fitting by welding.

Fitting for polyethylene pipes(HDPE) at one end has a thread for connecting to metal, and at the other end there is a compression retainer for the HDPE pipe - in contrast to polypropylene pipes no welding required

Making flange connections

The connection of a plastic pipe with a metal pipe without a thread is carried out using flanges. Its advantage is the ease of dismantling for repair or cleaning of communications.

The connecting elements for detachable connections of dissimilar pipelines are flanges of various types.

Light structures with a diameter not exceeding 300 mm, as well as medium and heavy pipes up to 150 mm, are connected using free flanges, with a straight shoulder for support. Such modifications are the most common when installing communications in private households and high-rise apartments.
For pipes of any type with a diameter of up to 200 mm, loose flanges with a conical shoulder can be used.
A shaped flange and a steel ledge using a wedge type connection is a universal option.
Maximum strength can be achieved with a straight collar with a tapered transition.

As preparatory work before mounting the flange connection, it is important to carefully inspect the prepared flanges. On them there should be no burrs which, when installed, may damage the plastic part of the connection. In most cases, these burrs are relatively easy to remove.

The assembly order of the node with flange connection next:

The steel pipe is cut off at the intended tie-in. At the same time, it is important to make the cut line evenly and accurately.
The flange is put on the pipe.
For the tightness of the connection, a rubber gasket is installed, the size of which must be such that it does not extend beyond the cut line by more than 10 mm.
The main elements of the assembly are connected - the flange put on the pipe is combined with the gasket and fastened to the second flange with bolts.

Tightening should be done by turning the threads of the fastener evenly around the entire circumference and avoiding excessive force.

If you are wondering what is better to make country water supply, then we recommend that you read our article. Types and tips for installation.

For the installation of HDPE pipes, it is easiest to use fittings. We have another article about it.

If you need to choose press tongs for the installation of pipes made of metal-plastic, then useful information.

Features of the connection of sewer pipes

When installing a sewer, a connection of a cast-iron pipe with a plastic one is often required, which is structurally different from the joints of steel and plastic pipes. For such connections, special components are required:

cuffs,
corrugations,
seals.

In most cases, picking up and purchasing components is not difficult. At the same time, and in those rare cases when it is not possible to find a suitable sealant, the problem can be solved with the help of improvised materials. A seal of the required size can be cut from microporous rubber, for example, from an old car mat. A long narrow tape is placed in the gap between the connected elements and sealed with a blunt wide screwdriver. Sealing is done without excessive force, so as not to damage the plastic. If a leak is detected during the test filling of the system, additional sealing of the connection can be made.

Sealing the connection by embossing or cement mortar not acceptable.

When chasing, the plastic plastic pipe is deformed, the joint will not be tight, and there is a high probability of leakage.
Cement mortar will not last long. Due big difference between the coefficients of thermal expansion of materials, the seam at each drain hot water will loosen. In the near future, the cemented joint of the plastic and cast iron sections of the pipeline will crack and cease to be airtight.

The connection of plastic pipes with copper is extremely rare, however, special fittings for such connections can also be found on sale. They have two smooth sleeves - one for soldering copper pipeline, the other - for connection with a plastic pipe.

The cosiness and comfort of the house depends on many factors. One of the main ones is home heating. Do-it-yourself installation of a heating system is quite possible. But in order to avoid mistakes and get a quality result, you need to understand the basics of the installation process and decide on the type and method of heating.

First of all, you need to calculate such parameters as the area and number of rooms, the amount of time during which you need to turn on the heating. And he will decide on the choice of radiators, pipes and make a list of the necessary tools and materials.

Required Tools

First, consider a number of tools for the job. Some of them are quite specific and will be needed only once, so look around, ask your friends so as not to waste money.

Hammer, ruler, tape measure, pencil;
Fum tape, paste for sealing threaded joints;
Sandpaper, hedgehog;
Level (can be laser - saves time);
Adjustable and wrench (preferably small and large of each type);
or set ;
, in some cases ;
Pipe cutter manual or electrically driven;

For plastic pipes:

Apparatus for soldering plastic pipes with various nozzles;

For copper pipes:

soldering torch copper pipes;
Solder for copper pipes, flux paste;

Types of radiators

This is one of the most important points. It is through the heating of the air and the room itself. be guided not only by the appearance and aesthetics, but also by its main characteristics: power, working and maximum pressure and working temperature. This is especially important if you plan to connect it to a centralized heating system, where 4-10 atmospheres is the usual operating pressure. And with the onset of the heating period, it increases one and a half times (to check the tightness).

But if the plans heating system– then these nuances disappear. A radiator operating under pressure up to 6 atmospheres is enough for you.

The most popular today are 4 types: aluminum, steel, bimetallic and cast iron radiators.

Aluminum radiators

Aluminum radiators are considered very efficient due to the high heat transfer of the material. After turning on, these radiators heat up the room pretty quickly and cool down just as quickly if you turn off the heating. This is also due to the small volume of the device.

Very often, aluminum radiators are installed together with a thermostatic head to automatically increase or decrease the hot water supply.

From the outside, aluminum radiators are very aesthetically pleasing. Rectangular plates, mostly white color covered with a special heat-resistant enamel, which is resistant to high temperatures. This is another plus, since it will not need to be renewed every year. Like cast iron radiators, aluminum can increase power by changing the number of sections. They are resistant to condensation and humid air, so they can be safely used in the bathroom and kitchen.

If the advantages of this type of radiators are low weight, high operating pressure and compactness, then of the minuses is the possibility of corrosion. Aluminum easily reacts with copper parts, and it also does not tolerate a high pH level (permissible 7.5). For this reason, for centralized system heating them is better not to use.

Due to possible chemical reactions, aluminum radiators are mounted together with a Mayevsky valve to remove the resulting gas.

Another disadvantage when used in the CSO is the operating temperature. At aluminum radiators it is 45-60 degrees, and in the CSO it can reach 85 degrees.

Steel radiators

Modern steel radiators have a very attractive design. Like aluminum, they are covered with a special paint, mostly white, but can be painted in any shade at the request of the customer. The advantage of such radiators is their relatively low price and high heat transfer. Also, this type of radiator is one of the most hygienic.

There are two types of steel radiators - panel and tubular.

Speaking about the inertia of cast-iron radiators as a bad side in terms of adjusting the temperature in the room, do not forget that this has its pluses. When other types of radiators are turned off, they immediately cool down, while the cast iron one continues to radiate heat.

Another plus, which many consider a minus: slow air heating and section power of about 100 W, which is 1.5 times less than other radiators. Here is your focus. The fact is that cast iron, unlike other radiators, have a radial type of heating. This fully compensates for the shortcomings, since, in addition to air, walls and objects that themselves begin to radiate heat are heated from cast-iron radiators.

The weight of the cast-iron radiator is the largest of all (one empty section weighs 5-6 kg), but this is not a very significant minus. Another disadvantage was appearance standard radiators. But with the development of technology, today such beautiful radiators are being created that you can equate them with works of art. Well, such a thing is not cheap, so the choice is yours.

There are 3 types of these pipes - brazed, seam, seamless. For home heating the best option will, of course, be seamless, the risk of leakage of which is many times less. Diameter from 10 to 25 mm.

Of the minuses of these pipes the following can be distinguished:

Low resistance to aggressive environment in comparison with other pipes; 6-7 years - this is how long the pipe will last before corrosion begins.
Poorly withstands a pressure surge;
Outwardly, they are very poorly combined with the interior of the room;
High price;
Low throughput;

There is an important point to be aware of when buying steel pipes. Sometimes they are coated with zinc to avoid corrosion. In such cases, never use welding to connect pipes. The zinc coating will simply burn out, and the welding site will turn into the weakest link in the heating system.

Copper pipes

The first and most important quality of copper pipes is that they are almost resistant to corrosion. The only thing that can seriously harm copper pipes is the galvanic couple formed as a result of a chemical reaction with other metals. Therefore, you need to carefully monitor. In some cases, manufacturers can cover the pipes with a layer of polyethylene, which improves the appearance and protects against external moisture and condensation.

Copper pipes with a diameter of 10-54 mm are produced. There are two types - soft and hard. Of the other advantages, it should be noted the working temperature limits from -200 to + 200 ° and bactericidal action. Copper pipes withstand pressure surges better, and the service life is up to 100 years. The price, of course, is far from average and high thermal conductivity is also a significant minus.

Pipes can be connected in 3 ways:

Coupling;
Thread cutting;
Spike;

Stainless steel pipes

Another type of pipe, characterized by high resistance to any type of corrosion. There are two types: seamless and electrowelded. The first are 5 - 126 mm in diameter, the second - 6 - 1420 mm. As in previous cases, it is recommended to use the seamless option.

Pros:

Large throughput;
Withstanding pressure surges;
The service life reaches 100 years.

A significant disadvantage for most buyers is the high price. Yes, and high thermal conductivity will have a bad effect on the temperature of the heater. Stainless steel pipes are also connected using couplings, threads or welding.

plastic pipes

One of the most popular pipes today is plastic. The most important advantage of these pipes, which makes them so popular, is absolute resistance to favorite types of corrosion. Plastic pipes will last at least 50 years. An important point is the absence of noise from the flow of water through them.

An important factor is the lowest thermal conductivity among all types of pipes. This will save some heat. Also, plastic pipes withstand great pressure and its jumps, they are the cheapest and easiest to install. Below we consider the varieties of plastic pipes.

Metal-plastic pipes

The design of these pipes is made up of an outer and inner layer of plastic and aluminum foil 0.2-0.3 mm thick between them. The polyethylene itself is very strong, has a roughness of about 0.004, a break limit of 70 bar, and operating temperature up to 95°.

The aluminum ball plays a very important role in the construction of the pipe. Thin and elastic, it is at the same time durable, prevents the pipe from deforming and elongating when exposed to temperature.

Withstand pressure up to 10 bar at 95 degrees. For some time they can tolerate an increase in temperature up to 130 °. The service life of pipes reaches 50 years.

Polyethylene pipes

Polyethylene pipes are environmentally friendly, they also do not give in to corrosion and are resistant to abrasion. Also, the advantages include light weight, strength and flexibility, ease of installation.

Features of polyethylene pipes:
Service life 60-100 years;
Withstand very low temperatures;
Withstand pressure drops and mechanical impact, due to which they are used in seismically active zones;
Working pressure at 0-25° reaches 25 bar;
A short period of time are able to work at a temperature of 100 °;

Polypropylene pipes

This type is more rigid than the others, because they are bent under a large radius. Also for these pipes you need more corner fittings. The installation process itself is more time-consuming and costly than the same metal-plastic pipes.

Characteristics:

Operating temperature = 70°;
Working pressure 10-25 bar;
Service term 50 years;

PVC (polyvinyl chloride) pipes

PVC pipes They are made from thermoplastic polymer. The operating temperature of these pipes is the lowest of the plastic family - 70-90 °. A feature of PVC pipes is chemical resistance and low flammability. Like other plastic pipes, they are characterized by corrosion resistance, strength, low price, high working pressure.

Heating system installation

This process involves disconnecting and dismantling old radiators and pipes. Selection of new radiators by calculating and determining the type of pipes to be used in the heating system. Soldering pipes and fastening pipes and radiators to walls. Connection of all elements of the system and connection to a heat source.

Small calculations

In order to choose the right radiators for your heating system, you need at least to determine the place where it will be installed, the number of windows and the number of external walls.

To heat a room with 1 window and 1 outer wall, up to 3 meters high, you need about 100 watts. Then just add power based on the following calculations:

+1 outer wall +20% power;
+1 outer wall and 1 window +30% power;
+1 north-facing window +10% power;
If the radiator is closed with a panel, then + 15%, and if it is in a niche, then + 5% to power;

When summing up several points, additional percentages of power are added up.

The approximate dimensions of the radiator are determined using some rules:

The distance from the window sill to the radiator is at least 10 cm, from the radiator to the ceiling 6 cm. The width of the radiator should occupy at least half the width of the window, and preferably 75%.

Water supply shutdown

Very often there are problems with disconnecting the riser, to replace or repair the heating system. The stand is public property. The municipal service has access to it. If you receive a refusal to turn off the riser for the duration of the work, be sure to require that the refusal be submitted in writing. Then you will have something to go to court. Everyone understands this very well and in most cases it does not come to this. Management Company simply obligatory to fulfill the requirements of the tenant. But this service (disabling the riser) is paid. The price varies from 500 to 1500 rubles per hour in different areas.

There is another pitfall in the process of replacement or repair - neighbors. There are situations when you need access to neighboring apartments, and "friendly" neighbors refuse to provide it. Of course, this is their private territory, but there are regulations (housing code, art. 3, 8, 36, 37, 129), according to which permanent access to a public riser can be provided even without their consent. Therefore, you again have the opportunity to go to court. Having explained this well to the neighbors, you can get by with just one conversation.

Radiator preparation

Before installing the radiator, you need to pack it. This is the name of the process of installing plugs, fittings and the Mayevsky crane into the radiator holes.

To begin with, we take the futorki and screw in 4 places. Usually there are 2 with left and 2 with right threads, we tighten them with an adjustable wrench with medium force. They already come with a silicone gasket, so there is no need to seal them with anything else. Next we find front side radiator and determine from the old radiator which side the eyeliner comes from. For example, on the left. Then we screw the plug on the right from the bottom, and the Mayevsky crane on top. It is needed to vent air when filling the radiator with water.

Now, on the left side, below and above, we install 2 fittings with an external thread and a crimp for supplying pipes to the radiator. We take a fum tape, wrap it around the external thread of the fitting and apply a paste to seal the threaded connections. The layer of paste should be approximately 2-3 mm. This paste will dry out during the cold season during the heating period and additionally make the connection more reliable. We put the fittings on the thread and tighten with an adjustable wrench until the futorka begins to unscrew, then with the same key we pull the futorka back. Remove excess paste with a towel. Actually, this completes the preparation of the radiator.

Dismantling of the old heating system

After the water in the riser is blocked, you need to drain the water from the radiators. To do this, connect the hose to the radiator drain valve, and let the other end out into the street through the balcony or into the sewer. Substitute an empty container under the place where the hose and valve are connected in case of a leak. If there are air valves in the system, open them to speed up the process of draining water. Then you can proceed to the next step.

Using a grinder, make two cuts on the pipe you plan to replace. The incisions are made at a distance of 5-15 cm from each other, deep, almost completely cutting the pipe. Now we take the gas key and, holding the place between the cuts, we break out this section. It is not worth cutting the pipe completely, this is fraught with jamming of the grinder disk and even traumatic.

Removing as much area as possible old pipe. It all depends on specific situation. In most cases, this is the distance from the radiator to the riser wiring or to the swivel fitting or plug of the adjacent radiator. Next, remove the old radiator from the wall. Here we either remove from the loops, or together with them, if they are “grown together” for long time. If the loops remain in the wall, they can be unscrewed, but sometimes they hold very firmly then, just saw off these loops with a grinder near the wall itself.

Next, using a gas wrench, unscrew the remaining parts of the old pipes. This must be done carefully so as not to damage or break the rest of the pipes and connections. If the thread does not lend itself, you can tap on it. In especially severe cases, heating the problem area with a blowtorch helps.

Now you can proceed to the installation of the radiator itself.

Radiator installation

Take a level to make marks. We put it against the wall opposite the thread of the eyeliner, from where a piece of the old pipe was unscrewed. Place marks at the level of the middle of the supply and return holes. In this way we reach the radiator holes. Now you need to substitute something under the radiator so that the middle of its threaded holes coincides with the marks, and makes notches on the wall for fastening.

Assembly of pipelines

So far, work with the radiator is finished. We pass to the eyeliners from the riser. They need to screw two ball valves. To do this, the valve must be with an external thread on one side and an internal thread on the other. If you have a faucet with two internal ones, then simply screw a special nipple on one side. All diameters are selected based on those that are already in the eyeliners. Usually it is ¾ inch or 20 mm. It is necessary to screw in the taps by wrapping the threaded area with fum tape and lubricating it with paste; you can also use tow and linen. Now put the tap on the thread and tighten with an adjustable wrench, remove the remaining remaining paste with a towel.

Tip: try to screw in the taps so that the valve handle is at the bottom. This will prevent accidental opening or closing of the faucet if you catch them with something. It is very important if there are children in the house.

Pipe diameters in most cases take 20 mm for the distribution of apartment heating and 25-32 mm for the riser.

We take adapter fittings for soldering a copper pipe or plastic pipe and screw it into the wiring. It all depends on what type of pipes you choose. Next, we consider in detail 2 ways to install a pipeline for copper and plastic pipes.

Copper pipes

If there will be copper pipes, then screw the fittings only to try them on, then unscrew them back. Measure the desired length of pipe to the swivel fitting. Take the pipe and cut off the desired piece. After that, we clean the edges with the help of the same grinder. Place it lying down and drive the end of the tube in a rotating circle. Prepare your blowtorch. Preferably with a narrow end of the flame, but these are a little more expensive, so if it is not possible, then you can get by with the simplest one for 150-200 rubles. We prepare solder. You need to solder the transition fitting (from the riser wiring) to the tube separately, and then screw the fitting with the tube into place. If you do the opposite, there is a risk of burning the valve in the ball valve.

The end of the tube that we will solder needs to be cleaned. Ordinary sandpaper is suitable for this, you just need to wrap the tube with it and rotate it in one or different directions until the end becomes noticeably lighter. Next, with the help of a hedgehog, we clean inner part fitting. Lubricate the end of the tube with flux paste and insert into the fitting until it stops. Remove excess paste with a towel. Now we heat the place of soldering with a soldering iron and for 30-40 seconds (the paste starts to turn white) and lower the solder. We repeat the same with another tube (we need 2 of them) and wait until it cools down.

Now we solder in the same way, just starting from the radiator. First, insert the tubes into the radiator and fix with clamps. In these places it is better to use this type of connection, since in the future it may be necessary to remove the radiator. Next comes the soldering of all connections in turn. Last, we weld the tube from the riser to the swivel fitting, after connecting the entire system together and adjusting it by moving the radiator left and right. That's all, the heating system using copper pipes is ready.

plastic pipes

Plastic pipes expand noticeably when heated, so they cannot be cemented in ceilings or walls, and during installation, you need to leave some space for their “movement”.

By analogy with the previous option, all sections are measured and pipes are cut. It should be noted that for soldering plastic pipes, about 15 mm will go inside the fitting. Here we need a soldering iron with removable nozzles. Turn on the device and wait until it is fully warmed up (the indicator will turn red). Next, the tube is inserted into the soldering iron sleeve, and the fitting is put on the mandrel nozzle.

Pipe heating time:

20 mm - 4-5 seconds;
25 mm - 7-8 seconds;
32 mm - 10-12 seconds;

At a low temperature in the room where the work is carried out (+5 ° C and below), it is necessary to increase the warm-up time by 50%. Pipe manufacturers recommend a machine temperature of 250-300°C. It is undesirable to solder two tubes of different materials and manufacturers. If it is slightly heated, then the connection will not be strong, and if it is overheated, the permeability may significantly decrease or even the tube will completely stick together. The surfaces to be soldered must be dry and clean.

Having endured both halves of the specified time, pull out from the apparatus and connect them together, then hold motionless for 5-6 seconds. To avoid deflection when welding perpendicular or corner parts, make notches on both halves. At the same time, retreat at least 15 mm so that the notches can be seen when connecting pipes.

Always draw a schematic diagram of pipes and elbows where you will mount them (on the wall or floor). It is not always necessary to weld the elements in a strict order, it is better to assemble several large segments and then connect them into a whole system.

If the sections are long and the system itself ends up being large, then use special fasteners for plastic pipes (if the installation is done on the wall). This moment should be determined before starting the soldering of pipes in order to mark and drill places for dowels in the wall.

On sale you can find many different materials that are designed to seal the joints of pipelines. The question arises - which of the materials in which cases should be used? And also, how to use this or that sealant correctly?

It is often possible to apply two or more thread seals at once, then clarification is required - what to prefer. The recommendations given should help to understand these issues and find a solution that will ensure sufficient reliability of the connection of pipes and fittings on the thread for the entire period of operation.

Linen winder

Linen - cheap material for threaded joints, creating a very high quality seal. The only thing is that it can not be applied in all cases.

It is designed for joining metal parts, as it creates a significant density. It is very durable, the efforts applied by the keys to the two parts to be connected require significant.

Therefore, flax is not compacted:

plastic parts - the tightening torque exceeds the strength of the material, the parts will be crushed, destroyed, at least the thread.
parts in which a metal sleeve with a thread is embedded in a plastic (polypropylene) shell, due to the risk of rotation (disconnection).

For all metal products, flax is the No. 1 material for winding threaded joints.

Linen "dry" is not used, it must be lubricated with a special sanitary paste. It is applied either directly to the thread or to wound flax.

Popular experience also suggests that sunflower oil can be used instead of pasta, while the quality of docking does not decrease, at least there is no such information.

A strand is separated from the linen and wound along the thread in each stream. Winding is done tightly and neatly. There should be no protruding hairs. The first two turns are not filled, and a shoulder is made at the end of the thread.

Special plumbing thread

A special thread for seals, high strength (cannot be torn by hand) wound on spools, sold in stores. Its main drawback is its high price, otherwise it has solid advantages.

It can be used on any parts, the tightening torque is less compared to flax, so plastic can also be wound.
It seals very well and can be used even on torn threads.

If it were not for the cost of this material, then only such a plumbing thread would be used for joints.

Winding is carried out in the same way as with flax - the first two turns of the thread remain empty so that the parts can be joined, and then winding is carried out along each thread stream, at the end of the winding - a double layer, i.e. shoulder.

fum tape

Fum tape is not very suitable for creating reliable connections on pipelines. The material is not very strong, there is no sufficient density in the threaded connection of metal products with it. But for plastic joints that will be dismantled, for example, a summer irrigation pipeline, fum-tape is the most suitable sealant.

With fum tape, the parts to be joined can be wrapped by hand. In this case, a small density of the joint along the thread occurs, so that no leaks occur for some time. A slight twisting force does not provide sufficient tightness, does not guarantee that this joint will not leak. For fixed connections, especially if they are inaccessible during operation, it is recommended to use other materials.

If there is a rotation of the connection with the fum-tape, which is already in operation, then most likely there will be a leak. This is a serious drawback, given that rotation does not require much effort.

At the household level, fum tape can be used (and is popular due to its cheapness, ease of use, and low effort) for connections that are in plain sight - when connecting showers, faucets, etc.

Plumbing adhesive sealant for threaded connections

The material is special, not quite cheap, it seals well, there are no cases of leakage after its correct use. But only after the wrong….

The obvious disadvantage of sealant glue is that the quality of the joint will depend on the "human factor" more than with windings. The fact is that glue does not work normally on greasy surfaces.

Where will greasy surfaces come from? It may just be carelessness - they dropped oil on the thread or rubbed the part in oil with their hands. Parts can be stored in a lubricated state (primarily for steel). But the main thing is that lubricant is used when threading. After such an operation on steel parts, adhesive sealant is completely unsuitable.

It should be noted that there are glue samples with which the undocking of pipes requires heating over 100 degrees. Such heating is often difficult, not safe, plastic can be damaged, etc. Therefore, the adhesive-sealant is still selected according to the circumstances.

The glue is easy to apply. It is applied only immediately before joining, squeezed out of the tube onto the thread and smeared with a finger over the entire thread without gaps.

In what cases should glue be preferred?

When connected plastic parts with metal, glue would be preferable. But such a connection is not common.
The second case is when access to the docking point will be difficult. It is better to put such a connection on glue, and lubrication is carried out abundantly without saving, on both joined parts.

Winding features

Thread winding requires great accuracy of execution. The thread must be filled with an even layer without gaps, there must be a sealing material in each stream. It is laid to the end of the thread, where a shoulder is formed from it.

The main seal of threaded connections occurs on the last two threads. On the details, more often, the last two turns of the thread are not cut to the full depth. Therefore, in this place the material is wedged between the two parts very tightly.

It is not bad if, during the performance of work, additional (cross) quality control of the winding with flax is organized. This is especially true when several dozens of such connections are performed at once.

findings

For those who are constantly engaged in installation, it is recommended to always have flax, plumbing thread and adhesive sealant with you in order to quickly and efficiently complete any connection. It is recommended to apply all this in accordance with the tips above.
When doing work at home with your own hands, when something simple and visible is being done, you can use a cheap fum tape, but you need to wind more. When installing entire systems with your own hands, it is better to use linen (with vegetable oil) on metal, and for small amounts of work it is even better to use a thread. Maximum attention should be paid to the quality of winding on the thread.

What should never be used to seal threaded connections:

It is not necessary to use plain silicone, it is intended for flange connections.
No need to use paints, whitewash, red lead, which give a little sense, but make the connections semi-collapsible - this is long outdated.

Sometimes when installing communication systems you have to combine elements made of different materials. Especially often in construction practice there is a connection of plastic pipes with metal pipes, for which you can use different methods.

We will tell you how to connect with maximum reliability plastic patch piping to an existing steel or cast iron system. We have described in detail the technologies that make it possible to ensure tightness during docking. The article shows the fixtures and tools necessary for the job.

Usually, when laying plumbing, sewer or other systems, builders try to use the same material. However, in some cases, you can not do without combined designs. Most common causes are the following.

Planned replacement and urgent repair work . Pig-iron communications, which are equipped with houses built several decades ago, are gradually failing. Over time, metal elements corrode or become clogged, which requires their scheduled or emergency replacement.

It is quite natural that in this case, old cast-iron or steel pipes are replaced with polymer pipes, which are less expensive and easier to install.

In old houses with long-established communications, modern polymer pipes are often connected to metal (usually cast iron) risers.

Construction. The process of individual or public construction of houses is associated with the laying of heating mains, sewerage, water supply. Often, different organizations are involved in the installation of various systems, due to the inconsistent work of which several types of pipes are supplied to the construction site - both from metal and from plastic.

Special cases. In some situations, the combination of dissimilar materials is an urgent need, for example:

pipeline connection to technological equipment, high temperature which fusible plastic products cannot withstand;
laying the highway in areas subject to increased loads, for example, under busy roads or at the exit of a garage. In this case, on difficult areas more durable metal elements are laid, and on the rest - polymer ones.

As we can see, the need to combine different types pipes occur quite often.

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2003-11-19

SN and P 2.04.05-91*“Heating, ventilation and air conditioning” allow (p. 6) “pipelines of heating systems ... to be designed from steel, copper, brass pipes, heat-resistant pipes made of polymeric materials (including metal-polymeric ones) approved for use in construction. In a set with pipes, fittings and products corresponding to the type of pipes used should be used. At the same time, regarding steel pipes, it is said (notes to Appendix 13): “the thickness of the pipe wall should be taken as the minimum according to GOST for the estimated diameter of the pipe, taking into account the connection on the thread or welding”, and also “electrically welded steel pipes should be connected by welding”. As for plastic pipes, apart from the instructions (clause 4 of Appendix 26): “the thread on the connecting parts must be of a full profile without torn and underformed threads and ensure screwing by at least one or two threads by hand” there are no other recommendations.

Regarding copper and brass pipes, no information is given at all. In this regard, an acute problem arises. It seems to us that it is dictated by the fact that the data given in the SNiP is not enough for high-quality and productive work on the installation, design and, of course, operation of heating systems. Indeed, today, in addition to threaded and welded joints, many other methods of assembling steel pipes are known. Plastic pipes made of PES - cross-linked polyethylene, PP-3 - polypropylene, X PVC - additionally chlorinated polyvinyl chloride and MP - metal polymer, approved for use (Appendix 25) for these purposes, differ from each other not only in a large spread of physical and mechanical parameters, but also ways of connecting. As for copper pipes, they also have their own connection specifics. In addition, if we take into account the fact that today these types of work are carried out by tens of thousands of organizations, numbering from a few people to hundreds or more workers and engineers, and sometimes there are no professionals among them - plumbers or heaters, the severity of the problem increases even more.

In this regard, consideration of the features of connecting pipes approved by the Building Regulations and Rules for use in water heating systems should somehow reduce the severity of this problem.

To make it clearer distinctive features connections of all the listed pipes with each other and with connecting parts, let's start with the steel pipeline connections that have long been used in heating systems.

Steel pipe connection

Large construction organizations most often use welding (~2~) to assemble steel pipelines.

In this case, both gas welding and electric welding are used. These high-performance methods of connecting steel pipelines are very widely used in pipeline construction. However, they require highly qualified technical personnel performing installation work, and special welding equipment, which in modern conditions of sanitary work is available only to large specialized organizations.

Therefore, small enterprises prefer to use for the same purposes standard fittings on short (~3~, a) and long (~3~, b) threads.

The main requirement for pipe threads is that the cut surface of the pipe is clean and free of burrs. When assembling pipes on a thread, it is necessary to ensure their alignment, as well as the strength and tightness of the joints. The tightness of threaded joints of steel pipes is achieved mainly by filling the gap between the internal and external threads with a sealing material along their entire length. The connecting parts or fittings must be screwed onto the pipe with some force, otherwise other connecting parts must be selected. If it is not possible to select the connecting parts, then you should replace the pipe or cut a fuller thread on it. Connecting parts or fittings must be screwed onto the pipe to failure, i.e. before jamming on the run. At the end of rolling, the threads should be cleaned, and the remains of the sealing strand should be removed from the surface of the pipe and connecting parts. Sealing materials used in the assembly of threaded connections must not be destroyed when fittings or fittings are screwed onto pipes, must harden in the gap between the threads without air access during operation and must be plastic during the entire service life heating system. When using cone-to-cone connections (see ~ 3 ~, c), the threads are lubricated with mineral oil or oxol drying oil before connection, the use of an additional sealant is not required. Long-term practice has shown that as a sealing material for threaded connections of pipelines of heating systems at a coolant temperature of up to 100 ° C, it is good to use linen strand impregnated with red lead or whitewash mixed with natural drying oil. It is not allowed to use hemp and substitutes for natural drying oil. The use of flax as a sealant for threaded connections of another type (see ~ 3 ~, a and b) is explained by the fact that its fibers are long, thin and at the same time strong, therefore flax fits tightly in the thread recesses and does not collapse when screwing the connecting parts or fittings. Recently, other sealing materials have appeared and are used (Table 1 ~5~). It is possible to effectively and reliably connect steel pipes by soldering, both simple and magnetic. The essence of the latter is that by pointing magnetic field it is possible to keep solid ferromagnetic particles in the gap between the pipes during the entire soldering cycle. When connecting pipelines to the socket by magnetic soldering, a magnet (~ 4 ~, a) is installed on the connected elements of the pipeline, which creates a magnetic field between the socket and the pipe inserted into it.

In this case, the magnetic field lines of the magnetic field are directed across the joint. This allows the gap between the pipes to be filled with iron powder. The magnetic field, holding the filler in the gap, forms a porous ring. When applied on top of the joint (with a vertical arrangement of pipelines) or next to it (with a horizontal arrangement of pipelines) and heating until the paste-like solder is melted, it is possible, using capillary forces due to the small gap between the particles of iron powder, to keep the molten solder in the gap between the pipes. It impregnates the entire porous ring. And after cooling, it forms a strong brazed joint of steel pipes. A multi-flame annular burner is used to provide the necessary heating. It must move along the axis of the joined pipes. Particular attention should be paid to heating the inner tube. It can be controlled visually by the degree of luminescence of its surface. After the shrinkage of the solder begins, the burner is removed. As studies of the Research Institute of Mosstoroy show, the solder strength largely depends on the correct choice of the gap between the pipes to be soldered and the length of the solder joint (~4~, b). The use of magnetic soldering makes it possible to reduce the weight of the pipeline by tens of percent due to the use of thin-walled pipes.

Copper pipe connection

This seems to be one of the reasons why brazing is one of the main ways to connect copper pipes to each other and to the fittings. True, in this case, a permanent connection (~ 13 ~, a) of copper pipes is obtained by capillary soldering, which is normalized in the corresponding set of rules. Unfortunately, there are still no codes of practice that would regulate the connections of plastic pipelines in relation to heating systems in Russia. Therefore, the available literature data should be used.

Compound polymer pipes

Pipes made of polypropylene are connected by socket welding, and pipes made of additionally chlorinated polyvinyl chloride are joined by gluing.

PP pipe connection

Socket welding is based on the conjugation of the melted surfaces of the parts to be welded by quickly pushing the end of one pipe into the socket of another (~6~).

For this, thin layers are simultaneously melted on the indicated surfaces with a heating tool: the inner surface of the socket is melted with a mandrel, and the outer surface with a sleeve. To create pressure on the mating surfaces of the pipes, the inner diameter of the sleeve is taken to be 0.2-0.7 mm larger than the outer diameter of the mandrel. The same ratio is recommended for the outer diameter of the pipe and the inner diameter of the socket (coupling). Therefore, in a cold state, the end of the pipe cannot be pushed into the socket of the fitting. When pushing the parts onto the heating tool, the excess material is removed by the edges of this tool. The removal of a small surface layer is a positive fact, since this reduces the risk of contaminants from the surface of the part entering the weld and destroys the oxidized surface layer of the part. When removing a layer of considerable thickness, the duration of heating of the parts above the permissible limits increases, which can lead to a loss of their dimensional stability, as well as to the formation of beads of melted material inside the pipeline, which worsen its hydraulic characteristics. Welding is carried out at a temperature on the heating surfaces of approximately 270°C. In this case, the main welding parameters must be strictly observed (Table 2 ~9~).

Connection of pipes made of metal-polymer and cross-linked polyethylene

Metal-polymer pipes, like cross-linked polyethylene, are not welded or glued. However, this does not mean that they can be assembled using only one type of connection, as follows from the Code of Practice for the design and installation of heating systems from MPT. To connect pipes made of metal-polymer and cross-linked polyethylene to each other, with fittings, devices and pipes made of other materials, they are used mechanical connections in the form of clamping sleeves of various designs (they are manufactured and supplied to Russian market approximately 50 manufacturers, each of which produces them practically according to their own technology).

In Russia, there is no regulatory document on technical requirements to mechanical connections of plastic pipes. This circumstance imposes on the consumer a special responsibility for choosing connections from the whole variety of proposed designs.

A common element of all mechanical connections of these pipes is a fitting. A pipe is put on it, and the other end of the fitting is threaded for connection to a fitting, manifold or device. The outer surface of the fitting has annular protrusions - for connecting pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene, and for connecting metal-polymer pipes, annular grooves are also provided for laying sealing rings of a circular cross section made of elastomers in them.

~7~ shows a PEX a XLPE pipe joint used by the Swedish company Wirsbo.

For the installation of this type of connection, a pipe cutter (scissors) is used for cutting pipes, a tool for removing internal chamfers and burrs, pliers for expanding the crimp collar and spanners for screwing a nut onto a bolt.

To connect pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene PEX a, the German company REHAU offers a one-piece connection, in which the pipe is crimped on the fitting by a tension brass sleeve (Fig. 7).

A pre-expanded pipe is put on a fitting with annular protrusions, after which, using a special device, the coupling is pushed all the way into the side of the fitting.

A similar push-on coupling is used by the German company IVT to connect both XLPE and metal-polymer pipes. For metal-polymer pipes, a slip-on coupling with large inner and outer diameters is used.

In a one-piece connection of pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene by the Swedish company Wirsbo, of an identical design, a white heat-shrinkable polyethylene sleeve is used instead of a brass compression sleeve.

Many companies use a design with a steel compression sleeve for the permanent connection of metal-polymer pipes (Fig. 8).

An internal chamfer is removed from the end of the cut MPT, a gauge is inserted inside it to straighten the ovality formed during cutting. A fitting with rubber sealing rings put on it is inserted into the calibrated pipe. To avoid electrocorrosion, a dielectric gasket is installed at the point of contact between the end of the metal-polymer pipe (aluminum) and the metal connecting part. To compress a steel coupling, standard pressing tongs are used with a set of inserts with dimensions corresponding to the existing pipe diameters.

Various companies offer mechanical connections with union nuts (Fig. 9).

Connections (see Fig. 9, a-c) as an element that compresses the pipe have a split metal ring in their design, and in the connection (see Fig. 9, d) the constricting element is a continuous ring - a sleeve. Connections (Fig. 9, a and d) are manufactured by the Moscow enterprise ZAO Trubmetallokomplekt.

When using the connections discussed above, you should make sure that they are compatible, since for different manufacturers, the outer diameters and wall thicknesses of the pipes (even for the same nominal pressure) rarely coincide within the tolerances from the nominal dimensions. The paper also notes that there are many ways to connect heating pipelines. One of the highly reliable and progressive is the method of connecting metal-polymer, polymer, copper and stainless pipes using press fittings of two main types, differing in the type of pipes being connected. Metal pipes (copper and stainless steel) are connected using a fitting fitted on the pipe with an internal sealing ring. As a rule, this type of fitting is made of the same material as the pipe. Metal-polymer and polymer pipes are connected using structurally more complex fittings. Depending on the method of connecting metal-plastic pipes, the author divides all fittings into threaded (compression) and press fittings. When using threaded fittings, the pipe is fixed by squeezing it with a split ring and a tightening nut. When assembling the connection, wrenches, a pipe cutter, a pipe bender and a bevel calibrator are required. The disadvantages of threaded connections are possible mistakes during installation (insufficiently tightened thread) and more, compared to press fittings, the number of parts for assembling the pipeline. The installation of such fittings requires more time, as well as careful monitoring and maintenance during operation, since the tightening of the compression nuts weakens over time and depressurization of the connection may occur.

Press fittings for metal-plastic pipes usually consist of several parts: the fitting body itself with a fitting inserted into the pipe, having from 1 to 3 sealing rings, a compression sleeve and an insulating ring. The body of the fitting is made from heat-treated special brass with a low zinc content or from a special polymer, which guarantees high corrosion resistance and mechanical strength. The crimp sleeve is made of high alloy steel. Some fittings, such as Geberit Mepla, do not have a compression sleeve and the pipe itself performs its function. An insulating ring, usually made of Teflon, is installed between the fitting body and the end of the pipe and serves to galvanically isolate the pipe and fitting, which prevents the occurrence of thermoelectric corrosion.

What are the advantages of press connections over other connections?

Press connections are one-piece connections. This means that they do not need regular tightening and control during operation, unlike threaded fittings. Hidden laying, pouring into concrete is allowed. Permissible working pressure at the joints up to 1 MPa. Many manufacturers of press fittings give a guarantee on the connection up to 50 years. Quick and easy installation with a high degree of reliability without soldering, welding or threading. All this, according to the author, ultimately reduces the cost of the project and installation time, which is important for design and installation organizations, and high strength and reliability of connections significantly reduce operating costs and increase the service life of the system. Today there are more than a hundred manufacturers of press fittings and pipes, but this does not mean that there are as many press circuits. There is some unification, i.e. fittings of a number of manufacturers are crimped with the same contours.

The paper notes that TECEflex metal-polymer pipes are connected without any additional sealing. In a pipe-fitting connection, the seal is the pipe itself. As a result, the durability and reliability of the connection is in no way related to the characteristics of the seal material. Convenient and fast installation is one of the main advantages of TECEflex pipes. Used for installation hand tool which allows you to work even in hard-to-reach places. With the TECEflex tool there is no need for an electrical connection or compressed air, as is often the case with many other systems. A special connection technique with axial sliding sleeves greatly simplifies the installation process. There is no need to cut threads, use welding or soldering. Each connection can be completed in less than 1 minute. It does not require any special skills. The design of the connection allows, after assembly and pressure testing, to lay the TECEflex system into a monolith, since, unlike most known pipe systems, TECEflex connections are guaranteed not to require maintenance (covering) during the entire service life. Thanks to the original connection technique using axial movable bushings, the nominal bore of the fitting is comparable to the nominal bore of the pipe (the fitting is full bore). Thanks to this, the use of TECEflex greatly simplifies the work of planners and installers. This also significantly extends the service life of the TECEflex system, because it is precisely in the places where nominal diameters change that intensive wear of the inner surface of the pipe occurs. The minimum service life of the TECEflex system is 50 years. The TECEflex system uses universal fittings, a large selection of which makes work easier. Fittings are made of corrosion-resistant brass. The metal fittings of the TECEflex system can be reused many times. To do this, the connection must first be simply heated with a building hair dryer, after which it can be easily disassembled. To reduce the cost of construction, there are also plastic fittings made of PPSU. TECEflex fittings made of PPSU plastic have the same scope, thanks to the special qualities of the materials included in their composition. PPSU fittings are as durable as brass fittings. The difference is that they cannot be reused.

As noted in the work, metal-polymer pipes manufactured by REHAU are interconnected without the use of sealing rings made of elastomers using a fitting by radial crimping with a metal sleeve.

The paper describes connections for PEX pipes, which can be used for 50 years at an operating temperature of 95°C and a pressure of 1 MPa. Wirsbo considers the simplicity of their installation to the undoubted advantages of these connections. Connections are made without gluing, welding, heating, soldering or threading. Ways of connecting pipes and fittings in Wirsbo systems can be described as mechanical with compression nuts (collet clamps) or with compression clamps (WIPEX connections) and self-crimping Wirsbo Quick&Easy. Wirsbo Quick&Easy couplings are designed for the installation of Wirsbo-PEX and Wirsbo-evalPEX pipes with a diameter of 16-40 mm in collector and tee radiator heating systems. The connection kit includes fittings made of high quality dezincification resistant brass and ferrules made from the same material as Wirsbo-PEX and Wirsbo-evalPEX pipes. In radiator heating systems, white rings are used for all pipes. The outer diameter of the fittings is greater than the inner diameter of the pipes, and the inner diameter of the rings is equal to the outer diameter of the pipes.

The Quick&Easy connection is made by flaring the pipe together with the ferrule put on its end using an expanding manual or hydraulic tool, inserting the fitting into the expanded pipe and then spontaneously crimping the ferrule around the pipe. This procedure takes no more than 15 seconds, during which a reliable, tight and durable connection is created with a service life equal to half a century. This technology is based on the fact that PEX-a polyethylene has molecular shape memory, high elasticity and the ability to return to its original state even after prolonged expansion. The Quick&Easy connection is one-piece, but unlike metal ring technologies, it can be easily dismantled. The indisputable advantage of the Quick&Easy connection is the smaller number of parts used in the connections. All of these factors, together with the speed, ease and ease of implementation, contribute to reducing labor costs, and therefore, total cost work to improve the reliability of the system. WIPEX connections are designed for the installation of systems central heating from Wirsbo-PEX and Wirsbo-evalPEX pipes with a diameter of 32-110 mm. WIPEX connections consist of a crimp collar that seals a round cross section rings, bolts, washers and nuts. The selection of materials for joints, taking into account their industrial purpose, guarantees high mechanical strength and good anti-corrosion resistance. So, the inner surface of the fittings, which is in direct contact with water, is made of dezincification-resistant brass, and the outer surface is either made of acid-resistant stainless steel or bronze. Silicone rings are used to seal the mating parts of WIPEX. They are placed in a special groove made in the crimp clamp. The WIPEX design connection ensures a perfect pipe crimp and guarantees a reliable and durable connection. The breaking resistance of a WIPEX pipe connection is higher than the resistance of the pipe itself, and therefore temperature fluctuations do not affect its tightness. WIPEX couplings are strong and simple in design, they also allow you to work even in hard-to-reach places. Clamps are tightened with easy-to-use small ring wrenches or wrenches.

Wirsbo collets (clamps) are screwed-in mechanical connections consisting of 3 elements: a sealing sleeve, a split sealing ring and a captive compression nut with internal thread made from dezincification resistant brass. They are used to connect pipes with a diameter of 16, 20 and 25 mm with manifolds in radiator and floor heating. When selecting a connection kit with a compression nut, it should be taken into account that the split sealing ring and the nut for Wirsbo-PEX and Wirsbo-evalPEX pipes have the same dimensions, but the sealing sleeves are different. To avoid confusion, the outer side of each sealing sleeve is marked with the size of the pipe for which it is used. In connections of this type with original Wirsbo elements, sealing occurs by contact metal surfaces(metal-to-metal) without the use of rubber gaskets. These connections will remain airtight regardless of temperature fluctuations and length of service.

X PVC pipe connection

According to the work, gluing X PVC pipes should include the following technological processes.

Pipe cutting: it is necessary to cut the pipe perpendicular to its axis, using special scissors or a hacksaw for this.
Pipe end processing: burrs are removed using a special scraper or a carpenter's knife.
Fitting of connected elements: to check whether the elements to be glued fit well, it is necessary to insert the end of one pipe into the socket of another pipe (sleeve) without glue (dry). The pipe should freely enter 2/3 of the depth of the socket, and then closely with resistance. (It is impossible to agree with such recommendations, since it will not be possible to do this with a certain tightness. In such cases, a measuring tool should be used.)
Surface preparation for the bonding process: for cleaning and pre-softening, it is necessary to clean the surfaces to be joined with a special solvent, using a clean rag.
Glue application: it is necessary to apply glue evenly on the outer surface of the end of one pipe, using a special swab. The remaining amount of glue that remained on the swab should be evenly smeared on the inner surface of the socket on the other pipe (coupling).
Bonding process: after applying glue to both connected elements, it is necessary to immediately insert the pipe into the socket (coupling) until it stops, then, in order to obtain better contact between the surfaces, turn it 1/4 turn. The elements to be joined must be pressed and kept in this state for one minute (~12~). With proper bonding, an extruded thin bead of glue should appear around the joint.
Tests: after installation of the equipment, it is necessary to test the connections for tightness at a pressure 1.5 times higher than the operating pressure in the heating system, up to 0.9 MPa. The water pump should be installed at the lowest point in the system. It is necessary to remove air from the system. Then, filling the system with water, see if there are any leaks in it. At the first stage, the test should be carried out three times, increasing and decreasing the pressure from the minimum to the maximum test pressure. The test pressure in the system must not decrease by more than 0.6 bar (below 0.84 MPa) for each subsequent 10 minutes. If the system has passed the first tests, they should be repeated at a pressure p = 0.9 MPa. If during the 72 hours of testing the addition of water does not exceed 0.1%, we can assume that the heating system has successfully passed the tests.

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