The simplest do-it-yourself log house. Log cabin: building independently of different types (from wild and rounded logs, timber), nuances. Partitions in a log cabin

31.10.2019

Often, people who live in an area with round timber available for sale have an idea to build a house on their own: all the more so since until recently almost all peasants owned this wisdom, not knowing a single letter, not owning construction technology. Building a log house with your own hands is not a great science, but it still requires a deep understanding of the process and the ability to adapt old carpentry technologies to new conditions.

Materials and tools for building a log house

We are in a hurry to dissuade people who want to put up a log house, using modern power tools to save time. Unfortunately, the use of chainsaws and electric planes is not recommended, they can only be used for heavy work. Wood treated with power tools is more susceptible to mold and decay processes. For the construction of log cabins, a special carpentry set is used.
For work, in addition to axes, you will need a standard planer (as well as a sherhebel planer for finishing work) and a scraper (for removing bark), there is also a number of additional carpentry tools for cutting into a cup. To excavate the longitudinal groove, an adze is used - an ax with a rounded blade and an inverted ax handle. When processing wood hand tool wood pores are naturally clogged, as a result, a hand-cut house will last much longer.

Carpenter's ax and its features: where to order and how to make

A round timber house is chopped with several types of axes, professional cutters order axes for cutting houses to order from high-quality hardened steel. In the simplest version, we recommend stocking up with an ax for rough cutting, which without the weight of the ax handle should carry about 1.6 kg, have a sharpening angle of 25 degrees, for convenience, use the length of the ax handle is 60 cm. And the second ax is used for fine cutting with more high precision, such a model will have a sharpening angle of 20 degrees, a mass of 0.9 kg and an ax handle up to 50 cm long.

Many artels in their work use a restoration and carpentry ax, which was restored and made on the basis of old samples by A.V. Popov. There are many modifications of it, which are made by Popov himself. Approximately 90% of carpentry felling can be done with this tool. Popov's ax has a wedge-shaped shape, in fact, this ax is a half-cleaver, since its tasks include not only cutting, but also removing chips during operation. This requirement is achieved with a special tool shape.

High-quality axes for cutting log cabins are produced by a number of Russian forges. One of the most curious is "ToporSib". In this artel you can buy all essential tool for cutting a log house in the form of ready-made sets.

Selection and preparation of logs for the construction of a log house

For the construction of a log house, a round timber is required. The thickness of the frame is selected based on the availability of materials. Usually a house made of round timber with their own hands is cut from the available and inexpensive materials. AT Russian conditions we are talking about the pine tree. There are 4 grades of round timber available for sale, experts recommend the 2nd grade:

Grade 1: butt part, without knots, used for high-quality woodwork;
Grade 2: assortment from the middle and butt of the pine trunk, available a small amount of knots and cracks;
Grade 3: round timber with a large number of knots;
Grade 4: wood with any flaws, except for rot.

Pine for the construction of a log house is chosen for budgetary reasons, in addition, this wood is soft and pliable in processing, has a small number of knots, does not require additional processing, the trunk run-off (difference in diameter) usually does not exceed 1 cm. Pine does not crack as much as spruce in processing, but has softness, so for the lower logs, which are closer to the ground, larch or oak is recommended. In this case, the salary crown can be made of pine, but its diameter should be 5-7 cm larger than the main log. In some cases, a high foundation can save from ground moisture.
Only fresh wood is used for felling a log house, ideally a log cabin is cut in the forest, where you can pick up material, and then transported to the installation site. Fresh material should be stored for no more than 2 weeks, for storage on the construction site, the round is stacked. For northern regions with temperatures reaching -40C in winter period, logs with a diameter of 21-24 cm are used, 15-18 cm is enough for the middle strip.

Project

When building a house, it is better to start with small forms of buildings, for example, build a gazebo or a log cabin with a rest room and a bedroom. You can live in such a house before the construction of the main house, and then use it as a guest house. Usually a forest of maximum length is ordered, while it is possible to make accurate calculations based on the presence of windows, doors, walls and select logs at the sawmill according to the required size.
In order to successfully and quickly build a house for yourself, it is better to get hired by an artel that is engaged in wooden construction, at least for summer time. This will help you understand the main points of manual felling of log cabins.

Foundation works: in the old days and now

The foundation for a wooden frame is made using tape technology or stone. The higher the foundation, the better the wood will be protected from ground moisture. A house made of round timber can be installed on a columnar and pile foundation. In the old days, the first rows of logs, the so-called uterine crown, were installed on stone shafts, they were called ryazhe. Such a decision made it possible to raise the house above the ground and firmly fix it.

We cut a log house with our own hands

Before starting work, prepare additional devices. First of all, the substrates for holding the logs, the fixation of the round timber is provided by cut wedges. Next, you need to prepare logs in size:

when cutting a log house “in the paw”, the logs are prepared according to the design dimensions of the house;
when cutting "into a bowl" 60 cm more.

Next, with the help of a scraper, the bark is removed from the trees, the log can be brought to a smooth state with a planer, but since the top layer of wood will be removed, it is necessary to treat the log with an antiseptic solution or tar oil.

At the next stage, the cutting of the obkladny crown is carried out with the help of log trimming. On the one hand, you should get a perfectly flat surface that will be in contact with the foundation. Next, a harness is constructed, it is done without much difficulty by cutting it into a bowl with your own hands, other technologies require skill.
Here is how to make a log house with your own hands video:

The algorithm for cutting a longitudinal groove can be different; professional craftsmen make it manually. A small graphic instruction will help beginners.

Logging can be carried out in a bowl, as well as using a number of other methods, which are illustrated in the figure.

Please note that there are Russian and Canadian felling technologies. The Canadian way of felling log cabins is better designed for log shrinkage and guarantees better thermal insulation.

Conclusion

Cutting a log house with your own hands is a very real goal, as a result of which you will become the owner of a beautiful and warm home. Construction wooden house will cost you relatively inexpensively, as labor-intensive processes will be performed independently. The house will delight appearance, as well as create a healthy atmosphere inside due to the aroma of pine resins. The key advantage of this construction technology is the fact that cutting wooden house possible at any time of the year. When using high-quality old wood, such a house will last at least 100 years.

Wood, being an environmentally friendly material, not only effectively retains heat, but also gives the air in the room a special aroma.

To build a wooden one, you must first prepare a beam.

Stage 1. Preparation of round timber

Attention! To determine the quality of logs (you can at any time refuse low-grade sawlogs), you need to know about the ideal harvesting conditions, which we will discuss below.

Round timber must be harvested at sub-zero temperatures, that is, in winter. It is at this time that the amount of moisture in the wood is minimized, therefore, during drying, the material will deform and crack less.

In order to ensure the durability of the log house, certain sections of logs are used during construction (the so-called butt logs). These sections start from the rhizome and end at the crown. Such butt logs are denser (which compares favorably with the tops) and there are practically no knots in them. Also, the selection criteria include the round shape and the degree of curvature of the trunk. In both cases, a marriage is an error exceeding 1 cm per linear meter.

Attention! If the length, for example, is 5 m, and the error exceeds 5 cm, then the log can be safely rejected.

The same applies to the diameter. For example, the diameter of the base of a log is 35 cm, while the tops are 25 cm or less. Such round timber is categorically not recommended for use in construction.

Finally, pay attention to the type of wood. Ideally, coniferous trees (spruce, larch, etc.) should be used for the bath. Larch is characterized by resistance to moisture, although in extreme cases, you can resort to a combination of "pine-spruce", in which the first few crowns are erected from pine. And if only spruce is used in construction, then the material must be treated several times with an antiseptic.

Perform further actions in accordance with the previously drawn up project. This can be done by yourself, found on the Internet or ordered from specialists. It is with the help of this document that you can calculate the required amount of consumables, determine the area and shape of the base.

Stage 2. Processing of timber

Step 1. After you have brought consumable(or you cut it down and delivered it yourself), it needs 25-30 days to rest.

Step 3. Then start processing. First, remove the bark from the logs (do this carefully so that they do not crack), leaving it a little on the sides - about a 15-centimeter strip on each side.

Step 4. After processing, store the logs about 25 cm from the ground. You can stack it as you like - in stacks, bundles, etc., the main thing is that the distance between the logs is 7-10 cm.

Video - Preparation of logs

Stage 3. Construction of the foundation

We will immediately make a reservation that massive monolithic ones can be abandoned due to the insignificant weight of the future structure. In order to save money, you can resort to one of two possible lightweight designs, namely:

strip foundation;
columnar.

Let's consider each of the options.

To build such a foundation around the entire perimeter, as well as under future walls, dig a trench 40 cm wide and 50 cm deep, lay a “pillow” of sand and gravel on the bottom. Next, lay the reinforcement, build a formwork 50 cm high and pour the concrete solution. As a result, the height will be approximately 1 m.

Attention! A more specific height depends on the depth of soil freezing in a particular region.

Video - Foundation pouring

Inside the perimeter, pour strips of sand and gravel. In the future, the strips can be filled with concrete or a wooden floor can be built on them. The choice of one or another option depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities.

Column type foundation

If necessary, erect supports. There are two options here:

brick;
from asbestos pipes.

Place the supports at the corners of the perimeter, as well as under all walls in 1.5 m increments. Under each support, pre-lay a concrete "cushion". In each support, fix several reinforcement bars so that the latter protrude at least 30 cm above the surface.

Build a formwork 40 cm high, lay the reinforcement in it and tie it with the rods protruding from the supports. Fill with concrete. After four to five weeks, when the concrete is completely dry, you can proceed to further work.

Stage 4. Base waterproofing

Treat the surface of the foundation with melted and lay a layer of roofing material on top. After the bitumen has completely dried, repeat the procedure. As a result, you will have a reliable two-layer.

Stage 5. Preparation of tools

To work, you will need the following equipment:

We will pay special attention to the last tool - the "line". For the manufacture will require steel wire with sharply sharpened ends. Bend the wire in half so that it takes the form of a compass, you can additionally fasten the handle. This tool will be required when marking logs.

Stage 6. Construction of a log cabin

There are several assembly technologies:

The first option - Russian felling - is the easiest to perform, even an inexperienced carpenter can handle it. Therefore, we will consider this technology.

Step 1. The construction of the log house should be carried out in stages and begin with the crown crown (in other words, from the first). Logs, which will serve as a crown crown, otteshete on the edge for the most snug fit to the foundation.

Step 2 Lay the first pair of logs on top of the waterproofing layer. Lay the next pair at an angle of 90ᵒ relative to the first and connect everything into a “cup”.

Attention! "Cup" is the most simple option connections at construction of a felling of buildings. It is carried out quite simply: at the bottom of the log, the boundaries of the future “cup” are measured, then with the help of the “line” a recess is marked. After re-checking the dimensions, the recess is carefully cut down with an ax.

You can use a chainsaw - it will save a lot of time. Although the final finishing of the “cups” will still have to be done with an ax.

Attention! In the starting crown, the "cups" will not be deep, as a result of which the logs will not come into contact with the base. Therefore, in the gap that appears, lay a lining - a small piece of board of the required thickness, treated with an antiseptic and covered with insulation.

Step 3. Next, lay the second crown, using the thickest possible logs. This is due to the fact that in the future you will cut sexual lags into them. For the purpose of a snug fit, make a longitudinal groove in the upper log, which would be equal to a third of the diameter of the previous log. To draw the boundaries of the groove, lay the upper log on the lower one and mark it with a “line”.

Attention! The longitudinal groove can be semicircular and triangular. If you have a chainsaw available, then you can handle the triangular groove in two to three minutes. But remember: logs with a similar groove will not connect tightly, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of the walls.

It's obvious that the best option is a semicircular groove. Do it with a chainsaw, use a chisel to remove residues.

Step 4. Insulate the log joints, preferably with linen jute. Lay one piece of canvas on the lower crown, seal the longitudinal groove with the second (especially if the latter has a triangular shape).

Step 5. Connect the crowns to each other. Here you can use:

square dowels;
round dowels made of wood.

The second method is preferable, because the dowels can be purchased ready-made and make holes with an electric drill.

Make holes in increments of 1-1.5 m, simultaneously flashing a pair of upper crowns completely and not completely - the third (from below). To avoid distortion, at the end of shrinkage, sink the dowels into the upper crown by at least 6-7 cm.

Step 6. After raising the walls to the desired height, lay the ceiling beams and rafters on top of them. If wet wood was used, then lay sheets of slate instead of rafters and wait for the structure to shrink. Usually, it is enough to spend the winter once, but ideally, shrinkage should last a year and a half.

In the spring, when the shrinkage is completed, proceed to the caulking.

Video - Aspen shingle roof

Stage 7. Door, window openings

We specifically started talking about openings after construction was completed, since there are two options for their arrangement.

Stage 8. Caulking logs

At the end of the shrinkage, the caulking of the log house is performed. To do this, prepare the following equipment:

a hammer;
caulking (wood or metal).

Attention! If you compacted the interventional space with tow or moss, then you can skip this step, since you most likely will not need a caulk. But if you find even the slightest cracks, then the procedure is still better to perform.

Start work only after the insulation has completely dried. First, twist the material (tow or moss) into a bundle, then hammer between the crowns with a hammer and caulk.

You can use tape jute - in this case, the material is simply fixed with nails or a mounting stapler.

Video - Log Caulking

Stage 9. Roof

As soon as the tree shrinks, you can start building. If you do this earlier, then the roof will simply lead.

Step 1. Lay on the wall trim wooden beams(We have already talked about this).

Step 2. Fix the beams and attach the rafter legs to them in 1 m increments. In the ridge part, cut the rafters at an appropriate angle for connection.

Step 3. Nail a solid boardwalk to the rafter legs (if you plan to use rolled roofing material) or make a crate (if you use slate, tiles, etc.).

Step 4. Install roofing according to the instructions for the specific material.

Step 5. Cover the ridge with galvanized sheet steel to protect it from aggressive environmental influences.

Step 6 Sew up the gables of the roof with siding or clapboard.

An example of a log house with a shingle roof

Sometimes, during assembly, it becomes necessary to join the logs. In this case, do not allow the joints to be located on top of each other. Moreover, in the lower crown, docking is unacceptable.
When laying a log house on a finished foundation, you can collect logs even before drying, laying a sealant between them.
It is advisable to equip windows after shrinkage, because otherwise they may warp.

Now you know how to builddo-it-yourself log cabin.

Despite the emergence of new building materials Recently, there has been a growing trend towards the construction of housing from environmentally friendly, natural materials. Returning to the times of grandfathers and great-grandfathers, today many people want to build a log house from a log with their own hands. So you can save a lot of money, and most importantly - personally ensure and control the quality of construction. But before you get started, you should study the theory. Information on how to make a log house on your own will help you do the job efficiently.

Basic information about the design of the log house

A log cabin is a structure consisting of horizontally laid logs that form walls. Each row of logs is called a crown, and the lowest one is a crown crown. A log house consisting of only four outer walls is called a four-wall (the logs are tied at the corners), and if there is one internal partition, it is called a five-wall (in addition to the corner ones, there are also T-shaped joints).

The construction of the log house is a wall consisting of logs laid horizontally. For the manufacture of logs used wood coniferous and hardwood. It is preferable that the trees are freshly cut, and in winter time: this wood contains less moisture. From conifers pine is better suited: logs from it last longer and exude less resin.

Corner dressings of external walls are performed both with and without the remainder: in the first case, the edges of the logs protrude beyond the walls, and in the second, they do not. Ligation is carried out by the method "in the paw", "in the bowl", "in the oblo" and more simple - "in the end tongue".

Preparatory work

Assembling a log house with your own hands begins with the selection of logs of the desired diameter. In areas with cold winters, the outer walls of the log house are built from logs with a diameter of at least 26 cm. For internal walls and for outdoor, built for areas with a warm climate, logs with a diameter of 22 ... 24 cm will suffice. Material with excessive curvature, with rot, with traces of insect damage is not suitable for use. After the bark is removed, the tree trunks must be cut in such a way that the length of the blanks is 70 ... 100 cm longer than the length of the walls. Short logs are spliced using the "comb-and-groove" method, but the first crown must be solid.

For the lower crown, the highest quality logs are selected, preferably from hardwood. In the following, you must select a semicircular groove along the entire length. From the side facing the inside of the house, the logs are cut through. Intended for internal walls (partitions), they are cut through from two sides.

The beginning of the assembly of the log house

Do-it-yourself log houses are assembled after the foundation is ready. over a foundation built of brick or monolithic concrete, lay the board impregnated with bitumen. Its width should be about 150 mm, thickness - 50 mm. The crown crown is hemmed from below and laid on the board, and then, after fitting, the rest of the logs. In this case, it is necessary to orient the butts so that in neighboring crowns they are on opposite sides.

During assembly, it is necessary to control the verticality of the corners and the horizontality of each crown.

The crowns are connected to each other with the help of dowels (pins) in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the pins should be no more than 2 m. In the walls, fastening should be done at least twice and at a distance of 150 ... 200 mm from the edge. Internal partition with outer wall connected with a vertical ridge, expanding towards the end. To do this, special grooves are cut in the outer walls.

In accordance with the project, openings are left for doors and windows. Another method involves cutting openings after assembling the walls (after shrinking the house). The latter method is preferable: it provides a uniform load on the base and prevents the structure from skewing. In both cases, the opening is made in such a way that the ends end in a vertical ridge (it is not needed in the upper and lower parts). Between the overlapping crown and top window and door frames should leave a gap of 4 ... 5 cm - for shrinkage.

The final stage of the assembly of the log house

After the walls are erected, they are caulked with flax, tow, moss, felt or hemp. There are also sealants made on the basis of natural rubber and artificial materials. The caulking material is compacted into the grooves so that there are no gaps left. To do this, use a special tool - a caulk and a hammer. They begin this work with the lower rims around the entire perimeter: processing one wall can lead to a skew of the structure. First, the outer walls are caulked, after which they move inside.

Wood should be treated with antiseptic material and flame retardants: the latter is mandatory in those places where it is planned to install a stove, fireplace, and also where the chimney will pass. This measure can significantly increase the service life of the log house.

After the assembly of the log house is completed, it is covered with waterproofing material and left for at least six months: this is necessary in order for the house to shrink. Then the installation of the roof is carried out and proceed to the interior decoration.

Interior decoration of a wooden house

The walls of a wooden house (log house), if the wood used is of high quality, without defects, does not require special finishing: it is enough to get rid of the roughness and open it with varnish. It can be either colorless or tinted. If the quality of the surface of the walls does not suit you or another stylistic solution is needed, you can use wooden lining or drywall. In this case, you must first install the electrical wiring: from the point of view of fire safety, a cable with copper conductors laid in a corrugated metal pipe is used for this.

The walls of the log house breathe well, so plastic and insulating material, such as polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam, should not be used. If necessary, insulation is used mineral wool. For flooring, boards with a thickness of at least 40 mm are used: they are tightly fitted to each other. A properly assembled log house will last for several decades.

In this article, we will consider the most common way to build a log cabin of a bath - this is a manual cutting into a bowl . Even our ancestors successfully used it, since it is the least laborious and does not require any special tools. It is enough to have an ax and a couple of skillful hands.

Tool for cutting a log house into a bowl

Now we will not dwell on the whole process of cutting the log cabin of a bath, but we will only talk about how to cut a bowl and a longitudinal groove in a log. To begin with, you need to stock up on the following basic tool (we are modern people):

Carpenter's ax.
Chainsaw (or electric saw).
Wood chisel.
A carpenter's (or homemade) trait.
A hammer.

If it is not possible to get a carpenter's line, then you can make it yourself. It is necessary to take a square wooden block with a side of 25-30 mm and a length of 150-200 mm, round off the sharp edges and walk on it with an abrasive sandpaper.

Then you will need two steel strips 3 mm thick, 20 mm wide and 200-300 mm long (the length depends on the diameter of the log and the size of the bowl). Using a hacksaw and a file (preferably emery), we sharpen one end on both strips. With adhesive tape we fix the non-pointed ends of the strips (80-100 mm) to a wooden bar (handle) on opposite longitudinal edges.

Bending the strips to the desired size, we will mark the contours for the bowl and the longitudinal grooves. To prevent the strips from bending during operation, they can be fixed with screws or an M8 threaded stud with four nuts and washers (2 pieces for each strip). To do this, on both strips we make one oval hole each and insert a stud with nuts into them. Adjustment is made by twisting and tightening the nuts. In this way, a tough and reliable homemade "feature" can be obtained.

Note : a welded version can be used. Instead of wooden block take steel pipe and weld strips to it.

Marking and cutting into a bowl for a bathhouse from a log house

First of all, you need to lay the logs so that it is convenient to work with them. The processed log keeps within crosswise in relation to the bottom logs. To give it stability, it can be fixed with brackets - then the log will not spin around its axis.

We pick up the “line” and draw the contours of the bowl and longitudinal grooves, observing the following rules:

Parameter	Meaning	Example for D=200 mm
A	R/2 max
B	Not less than D/2
R	D/2

We looked at how marking and cutting into a bowl is done. To build a hand-cut bathhouse, you will also need to learn how to build a log house using the “paw” method. But this is already in the article about manual.

More articles on how to build a bath with your own hands.

Today there is a lot of interest in the construction wooden houses, including according to the old log house technology. This is due to the desire of people to live in an environmentally friendly home.

Log houses are popular due to their environmental friendliness.

Meanwhile, in order to satisfy such a desire, one has to remember the architectural and construction secrets of their ancestors. There are quite a few of these secrets, and one of them is knowing how to chop a log house into a bowl.

In practice, there is nothing particularly difficult in mastering this technique, although carelessness and arrogance are unacceptable here. It is necessary to carefully understand some of the subtleties and understand what a log house in a bowl is and why it is good.

Cutting a log house into a bowl: its pros and cons

This method of constructing building frames brought into modern times the spirit of an old Russian dwelling, reliable, charming with its folk style coloring. In this technology, the connection of times is very tangible, and today builders who know how, just like their colleagues hundreds of years ago, are actively building houses in this way for permanent residence and Russian baths, beloved by the people.

When logging into a bowl, each upper log fits into a semicircular recess, which is cut out in the lower log lying perpendicular.

The essence of this corner connection processed logs consists in the fact that each upper log is placed in a special semicircular recess cut in the lower perpendicular log. The recess, which is called the bowl, is made of such a size that the top log, after laying, fits snugly enough on the previous log of this wall. Thus, a continuous, without significant gaps, vertical overlap is created.

The centuries-old experience of folk construction and climatic features in a particular area had a certain influence on the development of this technology. The variant of the corner bundle of logs, when the upper log lies in the bowl, was called the "Russian felling" (or "in the oblo"). But there is also a reverse way of how to cut down a log house. It consists in the fact that the bowl is cut in the upper log on its lower part and therefore lies on the lower log. This technique was called "Siberian felling (or "in the okhlop").

The emergence of such technology was due to large, compared with central Russia, problems with cold and precipitation in Siberia. Many experts believe that the Siberian version of felling more reliably protects the log house from all-penetrating moisture and frost.

Choosing the option of cutting a log house using the “into a bowl” method, the master takes on a certain responsibility for the result. Therefore, it is reasonable to know what advantages and disadvantages this technology is characterized by.

Thanks to this connection, the construction of a log building is very strong, with warm corners that are not blown by the wind.

Marking and cutting down the log house “into the bowl”.

A beautiful original house, created with environmentally friendly building materials, looks very harmonious and does not require additional exterior finish walls.

At the same time, the customer may have difficulties if he nevertheless decides to sheathe the log house. This is a minus of this technology. Another disadvantage of a log house in a bowl is a rather large consumption of material compared to other log house technologies. Due to the corners protruding by 50-60 cm, builders lose the useful living space of the house.

How to cut a log house into a bowl: materials and tools

For a comfortable and productive cutting of bowls, you will need the following tools:

carpenter's ax;
chainsaw (electric saw);
chisel;
carpenter's compasses (carpenter's line);
insulation (tow, moss, jute, etc.).

What wood is better to use for the construction of a log house?

In order to successfully cut a log house into a bowl, a good tool and the corresponding skill of a carpenter builder are not enough. It is necessary to determine the best material for this, which will resist infection by fungus and attacks by bark beetles.

Types of cuttings "in okhlop".

Carpenters recognize pine as an almost ideal type of wood for this. It is valued for its smooth, almost knotless trunk, which is distinguished by a high degree of hardness. At the same time, this circumstance does not at all interfere with the convenient processing that distinguishes pine. On the other hand, as an integral element of the building wall, it captivates with its reliability and durability, good resistance to decay and the absence of cracking as a result of drying.

To cut a log house confidently and quickly enough, it is recommended to select logs of approximately the same length and diameter. At the same time, the most practical diameter, according to the experience of using this technology, is 22-24 cm.

As for the time of harvesting logs for a future log house, experts advise doing this in the winter. It is at this time that the tree trunk contains the least juice. Therefore, during the subsequent drying of winter wood, it will be minimally warped, destructive cracks will appear in the trunk.

How to cut a log house: sequence of operations

A good type of wood for building a house from a log house is pine.

The production of any log house, including the “into the bowl” method, begins with the preparation of the site on which the house will be built. By the beginning of the installation of the first, lowest layer of logs, the foundation of the future structure must be mounted in such a way that the strict horizontality of the starting salary is ensured. Before starting the construction of walls, it is imperative to lay a layer of waterproofing material on the foundation.

The device of the crown crown begins with the installation of two logs parallel to each other, which will subsequently become part of the long walls of the future building. There must be a distance between them equal to the length planned cross-beam.

After the first logs take their strictly horizontal and parallel position, 2 perpendicular logs are placed on their edges. According to the crossbars laid out in this way, the markings of future recesses-bowls are made. This operation is carried out with the help of a carpenter's line.

The performer should very carefully mark the semicircles on both logs at the same time, since only the perfect accuracy of calculations and marking ensures the maximum density of the logs to each other. In this case, the depth of the bowl sampling should guarantee such a fit of the upper log in the lower one, so that the upper trunk protrudes from the lower one by half its diameter.

The markup is followed by the actual selection. It is produced with a chainsaw, an ax and a chisel. After removing the wood from the bowl, a trial installation of logs is made to fit them tightly to each other.

To create a snug fit of logs in a vertical plane, a special groove is cut on the upper edge of the lower logs.

In order to create the most snug fit of logs to each other in a vertical plane, a special groove for sealing is cut down on the upper edge of the lower logs along their entire length. Its thickness is influenced by the size of the logs, as well as the climate that prevails in the area where the building will stand. Usually it ranges from 120 mm to 200 mm.

Ideally selected sealing grooves should be free of gaps. Nevertheless, despite such a technological requirement, for additional thermal insulation, before installing each upper log, the groove of the lower log is laid with a heater.

When installing logs in bowls, they are leveled with special dowel pins, for which holes are pre-drilled in blanks to a depth equal to the height of one and a half logs. Laying the logs in this way, they are tapped with a wooden chock. And all this time it is necessary to monitor the strict verticality of the walls.

The nuances of work

To cut down a log house and to make it resistant to bad weather, the logs are oriented with thin annual rings to the street, and thick rings - inside the future house.

To relieve this process, you can build a building in parts. Relays (as these parts are called) are usually tied on the ground, lining up up to the size of human growth. Then each of them is dismantled and re-installed already on the base frame.

The pile option will be the best choice for a foundation for a wooden frame. It is lightweight and fairly easy to install.

In the absence of the necessary experience, it is recommended to start the production of log cabins with the construction of something small and not very significant, for example, from a garden gazebo or a small bathhouse. So experience will come and the skill necessary for building a full-fledged house will develop.

Gradually learning the tricks of building, the master will be able to create something not only suitable for habitation, but also causing enthusiastic responses with its exquisite appearance.