How to make a potbelly stove in the garage: we make a potbelly stove with our own hands correctly. Stove for a garage (photo, drawings, video) Drawings of home-made metal wood-burning stoves for a garage

29.09.2021

The easiest and most convenient way to heat the garage in winter is to install some kind of electric heater. Many car enthusiasts do this, but then they have to deal with electricity bills that are not comparable to the received heat due to the high tariff. On the other hand, a wood-burning or mining garage stove is not so comfortable to use, but it will certainly cost less. This material will outline how to save even more and make such a stove yourself.

Wood burning stove

There are very few requirements for such stoves:

to give off heat well;
was suitable for burning any wood;
fit on the patch allocated for her.

Since simple garage ovens do not really need aesthetics, they are usually welded by home craftsmen from what comes to hand or can be found on scrap metal. So the shape of the body can be arbitrary, I found a piece of a large pipe - the stove will be round, sheet metal caught - we will make it rectangular. By and large, it does not matter much, the design itself is much more important.

The Internet is full of drawings of various stoves, but they are all derived from the traditional metal potbelly stove. The body of the heater can be oriented in a horizontal or vertical plane, this has almost no effect on the efficiency of work. The fact is that a do-it-yourself vertical homemade garage oven takes up less space. While long logs are placed in the horizontal one, it burns longer with one load. Choose which option suits you best.

There is no grate in traditional potbelly stoves, this stove is a hearth. The chimney is located at the rear and is supplied from above, as shown in the drawing:

In a garage where flammable liquids and oils are stored, the lack of an ash pan is not the best option. When cleaning the hearth, hot coals can crumble, which is inconvenient to perform the procedure. For this reason, a simple wood-burning stove received grates, an ash pan and a cleaning door, and even a drawer. As for the pipe, it is boiled in the usual place or on the back wall.

But the improved two-way potbelly stove has a pipe in the front. The design of the furnace contributes to increased heat transfer, since the flue gases inside it make two passes in different directions, intensively exchanging heat with the metal walls.

The last course of gases ends at the front wall, so the pipe is in front. Such a furnace in the garage is very effective, it can be made according to the drawing presented above:

An increase in the exchange surface will additionally increase heat transfer. Craftsmen have long resolved this issue by welding 4-5 mm thick strip steel ribs to the body, as shown in the photo:

Without going into details and a description of the production of welding, we will give a few general recommendations:

try to take thicker metal, if possible, then 4-5 mm. Then the wood stove will last longer;
when attaching the chimney from above, it is better to strengthen the wall, this joint burns out most often;
external ribs significantly improve heat exchange, they can be welded to any stove;
inside you can install at least one partition, like a two-way furnace;
it is better to make many small holes in the grate than large holes where unburned coals will wake up.

Waste oil furnace

The simplest used oil garage stove is well known to everyone. And, although her drawing is not difficult to find in RuNet, just in case, we will present it again:

As you can see, such a heater is not difficult to manufacture, but there are nuances in operation. The main enemy of such stoves is water, which, due to various circumstances, got into the used oil. A very small amount of it causes strong pops in the perforated afterburner (vertical pipe with holes), which can lead to a fire. It turns out that before use, the fuel must be defended in order to separate the water.

Important. Any mining stove, as well as a wood-burning stove, requires a chimney with good draft for stable operation, so it is recommended to raise it to a height of at least 4 m.

The second drawback of the heater is a pungent smell at the stage of ignition and heating. Otherwise, the use of a miracle furnace, as it is called on specialized forums, does not cause any particular complaints. She heats pretty well. But on the same forums, craftsmen have long proposed a more reliable and efficient design. And not as flammable. The principle by which such an oil stove functions is shown in the figure:

The fuel burns in a metal bowl located at the bottom of a vertically standing pipe (or gas cylinder). It is fed into the bowl in drops from a dosing device. Thanks to this scheme, if necessary, the oil-fired oven can also burn diesel fuel, you just need to adjust the air supply and dosage. Part of the oil vapor burns out inside a vertical perforated pipe - afterburner when secondary air is supplied. The furnace device is shown in the drawing:

As a housing, you can use a thick-walled steel pipe or a propane tank. The range of the rest of the metal is indicated on the drawing, we will not list it again. Instead, let's focus on the method of air supply, it can be of two types:

natural, due to chimney draft;
forced blowing by the fan.

A homemade drip stove from a pipe can also work at low traction if there is no way to raise the chimney higher. This is facilitated by the installation of a fan that blows air into the afterburner. Then, looking into the working furnace from above, we can observe the following picture:

The method is considered more effective and quite reliable, proven by more than one garage owner. If desired, such a diesel stove is enclosed in a water jacket, turning into a hot water boiler. This will allow you to arrange radiator heating in the garage and significantly increase comfort during a long stay indoors in winter. The caveat for oil heaters is the same as for wood-burning ones: if there is a high-rise apartment building in the immediate vicinity, then you will have to return to the idea of heating with electricity.

Self-installation of the stove in the garage must be carried out according to certain rules. Firstly, it is necessary to ensure the operability of the heater, and secondly, to take measures for fire safety. As for the first point, it concerns the correct installation of the chimney, which must create normal draft. Here are the recommendations:

pipe height - at least 4 m, counting from the grate;
turns - no more than 3, while avoiding the installation of 90º elbows, try to use 45 or 30º;
if there is a horizontal section, then its length is not more than 1 m;
it is better to insulate the pipe section on the street with basalt wool to prevent condensation;
fasten the chimney to the wall so that it does not load the body of the furnace.

During the installation of a wood or oil stove with your own hands, observe fire safety requirements. Here is their list:

on the floors under the stove, lay a sheet of metal protruding from the side of the door by 1 m;
combustible wall structures near the stove must be protected with metal or brick screens;
passing a wooden floor through the chimney, ensure a gap between it and the pipe of 250 mm, filling it with basalt fiber;
in order to protect the flue from wind blowing, install a deflector or a special nozzle on it;
natural supply and exhaust ventilation should function in the garage.

Conclusion

Compared to electric furnace garage heating is much more economical, and sometimes more efficient. But in the installation and operation of oil and solid fuel heaters, there are some peculiarities that must be taken into account. Making stoves with your own hands will not present much difficulty for a person who has the necessary skills. In extreme cases, the manufacture can be entrusted to a familiar master by choosing a suitable design.

Garage stove (photo, drawings, video)

The issues of heating garages in winter have to be solved by the owners of buildings that are not connected to a centralized network or are not built into a single heating system of a suburban area. Often, an additional garage heater saves motorists whose individual car parking is heated with insufficient efficiency. The cold, which adversely affects the car, preventing the owner from working in the garage, can be dealt with in several ways. The choice of an appropriate option depends on the economic condition of the owner of the car and the type of building for its storage.

Why do you need garage heating?

The standards regulate a temperature indicator that is favorable for storing a car, it is 5 ° C and allows deviations of one degree. What happens to a car at a lower temperature is probably known to every motorist. Most of them, without a doubt, managed to face the laborious starting of the engine in cold weather, especially noticeable after a long parking of the car.

Even antifreeze can freeze from exposure to low temperatures. Car enthusiasts who use plain water for cooling and drain it daily at night cannot fill the radiator with hot water. From this, the cylinder block frozen from frost and the head of this unit can burst. Getting into a very chilled environment, boiling water freezes in a couple of moments and clogs the channels with ice plugs.

A primitive expensive method of preventing these troubles is the round-the-clock operation of the engine, which reduces the life of the motor and entails high costs. Moreover, the owner of the car will still need to heat up the transmission with a blowtorch or an elementary fire. After reviewing the list of threats and gaining practical experience, the owner of the garage comes to a natural conclusion: he needs a factory heater or a home-made garage stove that maintains a constant temperature regime with parameters dictated by the standards.

Types of furnaces for garages

The choice of the optimal heating method is influenced by two main aspects:
the period of time during which it will be necessary to heat the garage;
the size of the amount that the owner is able to invest in the device of the furnace.

If the garage is a household extension to a residential building, it makes sense to equip it with heating devices and then connect it to the public network. In an autonomous garage located far from residential buildings with communications, you will need to make an individual system.

All garage heating units used in our time are classified based on the difference in the principle of operation of the energy source. You can equip the building by installing in the garage:

Gas heating boiler. Sufficiently productive equipment is distinguished by an affordable price, independence from power supplies. However, in areas that do not have access to central gas supply networks, this heating method is not possible. Explosiveness is classified as a disadvantage.

Units supplying thermal energy through the combustion of solid fuels. You can buy a factory-made stove of foreign or domestic production, you can make a simple stove for a garage with your own hands. This is the most rational method of heating in terms of costs and the effect obtained.

Electric heaters, the attractive side of which is the ability to choose equipment with exactly the power needed. The negative quality of systems powered by the mains, energy consumption with a rather big payment.

Furnaces operating on used engine oil.

Heating electrical equipment is now represented by a wide range of factory products. The main argument in their favor is mobility, which allows the units to be installed in areas that require high heating rates to the maximum extent. Garage owners who are not too concerned about energy consumption can purchase infrared systems, oil coolers or heat guns in stores.

The equipment produced by manufacturers is equipped with devices with which you can set the direction of the heat flow, adjust the power. There are wheels for easy movement of equipment, systems that provide users with safety, preventing premature wear and breakdown of units. Heat guns and infrared heaters are also available in the range of gas systems.

An extensive range of factory garage ovens allows you to choose and buy a unit with any capacity that processes the type of fuel that is optimal for the owner.

Productivity and economy combine equipment that runs on standard solid fuels, which are used as coal, special pallets, firewood. They are produced in a wide range of industries.

Heating systems made of heat-resistant materials from manufacturers are installed in the places specified by the manufacturers in the simplest way described in the instructions. However, an elementary do-it-yourself wood-fired garage stove will be just as productive, only it will cost ten times cheaper.

Benefits of a wood stove

An economical DIY wood burning stove is easy to maintain and is considered by many to be the best option for setting up freestanding garages. The most common design is a potbelly stove, the installation of which requires compliance with two dominant rules:

The potbelly stove can only be used in rooms that have openings that provide air flow and pipelines through which exhaust ventilation is carried out.

It is necessary to install the heating structure in the garage area, remote from flammable objects, wood elements, from the places where lubricants, combustible consumables are located.

One of the options for a potbelly stove can only be installed in garages with natural or artificial ventilation.

In addition to cost-effectiveness and operational rates of space heating, the popularity of this design is substantiated by the following convincing advantages:

extremely low cost of equipment and affordable price of fuel required for its functionality;
the ability to independently mount a productive, durable furnace at minimal financial cost;
excellent efficiency with small unit sizes;
cheap installation;
not laborious maintenance;
no need to build a special foundation for the stove;
the ability to use a hand-made product for heating and cooking.

This method also has disadvantages. The main among them is a rather large consumption of inexpensive, but taking away a certain amount of fuel. Firewood is consumed quickly, because the metal structure is not able to accumulate the generated heat. The energy obtained as a result of the combustion of firewood is immediately transferred to the air mass, but after the stove stops heating, the metal case cools down very quickly.

There is a method to reduce fuel costs, which consists in upgrading the design. A potbelly stove will require significantly less firewood if the pipe is built into the body almost above the door, and not traditionally near the back wall.

By moving the position of the pipe, the walls of the stove will be heated first of all, and only then the combustion products will enter the pipe. At the same time, the time for the release of thermal energy will increase, since the clay concrete, insulated metal or brick pipeline cools more slowly than the body metal. In addition, the period required for heating the interior space in the garage will be reduced.

Structural components of the potbelly stove

The variability of the designs of stoves of the "potbelly stove" type predetermines the absence of clear regulations. Each master makes it at his own discretion, in accordance with personal preferences. But regardless of which scheme the manufacturer preferred, all heating units of this variety have common structural elements, these are:

Structural diagram of the simplest potbelly stove

a firebox, which is a standard combustion chamber, its configuration and dimensions are not declared by strict canons;
a grate installed at the base of the structure, it is needed to create traction and to place firewood;
chimney pipeline, it can be curved or spiral, in the case of using a standard straight pipe, it should be noted that the length of straight horizontally installed sections of the chimney, according to building codes, should not exceed 1 meter.
an ash pan located under the grate, which is a device for collecting ash.

The simplest "bourgeois" stove consists of a metal case, equipped with a door for supplying fuel, and a branch pipe, the location of which is determined by the manufacturer. As a blower, you can make small holes in the bottom, they will help create good traction. The tortuosity of the chimney is dictated by the need to reduce the speed of movement of hot air through the pipe. Smoke, lingering in the chimney, will give off thermal energy to the room, and not “fly out the chimney” with undesirable swiftness.

Furnace working on "working out"

The main advantage of this heating equipment is the use of the cheapest, often free fuel. A simple reliable unit operates without a nozzle and a dropper. This is an extremely cheap stove - it’s easy to make it in the garage with your own hands, and it’s also not problematic to always find fuel for it.

The standard scheme of a garage stove operating on waste oil, the master can choose his own dimensions.

Structurally, the waste oil processing furnace consists of two containers connected by a perforated pipe. The lower element with a volume of 12 liters performs the function of a furnace and a fuel tank. On the upper plane of the lower part of the stove there should be a hole equipped with a lid. The hole is needed to fill the fuel, the cover is needed to control the operation of home-made equipment. By opening and closing the lid, the owner will control the supply of oxygen required for combustion, on which heating productivity depends.

The upper container and the pipe connecting the two main parts play the role of heating elements of the furnace. This home-made device can heat up to 800-900 ° C. To prevent the containers from burning out, sheet iron with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm is used for their manufacture. A branch pipe is welded to the top of the stove, on which a chimney made of galvanized steel alloy is installed. The entire furnace structure should not be monolithic, since the upper container will need to be removed to remove soot from the burner.

Structural components of a future garage stove that recycles used oil.

How to make a stove with your own hands

For the manufacture of such a device, drawings, any in-depth technical knowledge, and professional skills are not required. The unit will consume up to one and a half liters per hour, the entire system weighs no more than 30 kg. Standard dimensions that do not take into account the exhaust pipe vary from 35 to 70 cm. Most often, a pipe with a cross section of 105 mm is used to make the hood.

For those who want to learn how to make a stove in the garage correctly, and how to ensure that the operation of a homemade product does not cause problems, there are several important recommendations:

The preferred height of the chimney is about 4 meters, which is necessary for the formation of good draft.
The stove, which functions in mining, needs to be cleaned every ten days.
There will be much less soot if the diameter of the top pipe is larger than the dimensions of the exhaust element.
The unit must be installed in the garage area so that there are no nearby explosive substances, flammable objects.

Oil with any degree of purification is suitable for the operation of the stove. An unpurified composition is quite suitable. If you agree with the owners of nearby garages and put some kind of tank to drain the oil, the fuel for the stove will be generally free. You can use transmission, transformer, machine oil, diesel, any heating oil to heat the garage.

A huge number of stoves for mining, having a similar design and working on a single principle.

Such a home-made stove is ignited with the help of paper inserted into the lower tank, a newspaper, on top of which fuel is poured. The contents will begin to boil in about ten minutes, the combustion process is initiated due to the ability of the oil to ignite spontaneously. Fuel is added in portions of 5 liters. When using purified compositions, it will be possible to take care of structural elements less frequently, which will also be facilitated by an increase in the cross section of the chimney.

Video: manufacturing and operating tips:

A functional, efficient oven for a garage building can be made with your own hands at minimal cost. Without any problems, exorbitant labor costs and professional skills, a novice master can make it. Homemade stoves are easy to use, productive, and safe if the rules are followed.

Unfortunately, heating is not provided for garages (although, perhaps, fortunately, given the current tariffs), therefore, you have to heat yourself. Well, any heating is a stove. In this case, it should be small, but effective - you need to quickly move the room from a “minus” to a good “plus”. So when choosing a design, do not forget that the garage oven should ignite quickly and easily. It is also desirable that it could be heated with waste - it is very non-budgetary to buy good firewood, and there is nowhere to store it. Well, one more requirement - the design should be simple so that you can easily do it yourself.

What stoves can be made for a garage

In a cold garage in winter is very unpleasant. That is why heating is required. Garage stoves are usually small steel potbelly stoves. They are made from thick-walled barrels, pipe sections or from gas cylinders. Such garage ovens are simpler in execution, require only minor modifications, because the body, and sometimes the bottom, is already there. Furnaces are also made from sheet metal, but these are options for those who are closely friends with. Brick stoves in garages are not very common - they are still larger, they heat up less, which is not entirely suitable for this case.

The most common potbelly stoves that work on wood, everything that burns is laid in them. Such omnivorousness and fast heating are their main advantages. They also have many shortcomings, and one of them is gluttony, therefore, more economical long-burning stoves have recently begun to be made. Usually the top burning principle is used. They are good because one full bookmark (an oven from a 50 liter propane cylinder) can burn up to 8 hours. All this time it is warm in the garage.

They go separately. There is enough similar fuel in garages, but you need to be careful with mining - heavy metals are contained there and excellent traction is required so that they do not get inside.

Potbelly stoves - proven and simple designs

Potbelly stoves - a hit of the 20s of the last century. Then these stoves competed with brick ones and stood everywhere, even in apartments. Later, with the advent of centralized heating, they lost their relevance, but are used in garages, summer cottages, and for heating utility or outbuildings.

Potbelly stoves from a cylinder, barrel or pipe

The most suitable material for making a potbelly stove for a garage is propane tanks or a thick-walled pipe. Barrels are also suitable, but you need to look for a not very large volume and with a thick wall. In any case, the minimum wall thickness is 2-3 mm, the optimal one is 5 mm. Such a stove will serve for more than one year.

By design, they are vertical and horizontal. It is more convenient to heat a horizontal one with firewood - longer logs fit. It is easier to make it elongated upwards, but the firebox is small in size, you will have to cut firewood finely.

vertical

First, how to make a vertical garage oven from a cylinder or pipe. Divide the selected segment into two unequal parts. Below is a smaller one for collecting ashes, above is the main one for laying firewood. The following is the order of work:

All in all, that's all. It remains to assemble the chimney and you can test a new stove for the garage.

Horizontal

If the body is horizontal, the ash drawer is usually welded on from below. It can be welded to the required dimensions from sheet steel or a suitable sized piece of channel can be used. In the part of the body that will be directed downward, holes are made. It is better to cut something like a grate.

Then in the upper part of the body we make a pipe for the chimney. To do this, you can weld a cut piece from a pipe of a suitable diameter. After a piece of pipe is installed and the seam checked, the metal inside the ring is cut out.

The next step is to install the doors. On the blower, you can cut a piece of metal, attach loops and constipation. Here without any problems. The gaps along the edges do not interfere - air for combustion will flow through them.

There will be no difficulties even if you make a metal door - welding the hinges is not a problem. Only here, in order to be able to at least slightly regulate combustion, the door needs to be made a little larger - so that the perimeter of the opening is closed.

It is problematic to install furnace casting. Suddenly someone wants to have not a steel door, but a cast-iron one. Then it is necessary to weld a frame from a steel corner, attach a casting to it with bolts, and weld this entire structure to the body.

From two barrels

Everyone who used a potbelly stove knows that very hard radiation comes from its body. Often the walls are heated to a red glow. Then next to her is impossible. The problem is solved by an interesting design: two barrels of different diameters are inserted one into the other. The gaps between the walls are covered with pebbles, clay mixed with sand (calcined on fire, covered only when it has cooled down). The inner barrel acts as a firebox, and the outer one is only the body.

This stove will take longer to heat up. It will not immediately begin to give off heat, but it will be more comfortable in the garage and after the fuel burns out, it will warm the room for a couple more hours - giving off the heat accumulated in the tab.

Long burning garage oven

All from the same gas cylinder, you can make a stove for a long-burning garage. There are different designs, but the most proven and stable one is called Bubafonya - after the nickname of the author who invented it and posted it on one of the forums. It was about 5-6 years ago. Since then, many have had this miracle - a simple and original design, high efficiency and the fact that you can lay not only firewood, but also shavings and even sawdust. You can even modify Bubafonya for water heating in the garage, which has been done more than once (a water jacket around the body).

Wood-burning stove in a long-burning garage (diagram and photo)

This homemade wood-burning stove has only one drawback - in order to remove the ashes, you will have to turn the body upside down. True, there are already improvements that eliminate this shortcoming. With a welding machine, you can make such a stove in the garage with your own hands in a few hours - it is very easy to manufacture.

Design

This stove uses the principle of top combustion: firewood burns from above, the flame spreads down as the upper layers burn through. This explains the long period of time for combustion - the flame spreads down much more slowly. However, the heating is effective. Already in the first minutes, a sufficient amount of heat begins to be released.

This stove is traditionally round, vertical. The body is an ordinary cylinder with a bottom without a welded cover. The main focus is in the shape and structure of the moving part. It is often called "cargo", but this is only one of the functions. This part also brings air into the combustion zone. She represents a metal circle to which a pipe is welded in the middle. On the back side of the metal circle - from the center to the edges - corners or pieces of a small channel are welded. These are air ducts through which air enters the periphery of the combustion area. There is also a cover with a hole cut out in the center through which the cargo pipe is passed. The smoke pipe is welded almost at the very top of the body. Its horizontal part should not be more than 40 cm, then the pipe rises. The height of the chimney is at least 2-3 meters, but it must be determined by the draft - so that in any weather the smoke does not go into the garage.

Principle of operation

Having filled the body with firewood interspersed with shavings and sawdust, the bookmark is kindled. A lid is put on the pipe and, when the flame flares up, the lid is placed on top. Since the pipe is hollow, air is supplied through it to the combustion zone, which supports combustion.

The diameter of the “load” circle is slightly smaller than the diameter of the body - through this slot, combustion products enter the upper part (in the figure it is signed as a “secondary combustion chamber”). As you know, they are combustible themselves and can give off a large amount of heat. In this zone, with a well-heated furnace, these gases ignite. Combustion air comes from a slot in the cover in the area of the pipe passage. Something can “pull up” in a circle. It's not that important. It is important that the lid should not be made airtight, and also that because of this, the draft in the pipe should be excellent.

The gases ignited in the upper part give no less heat than burning wood. This explains the heating efficiency when using this design. Burnt gases exit into the chimney. As it burns, the load sinks lower and lower until the entire bookmark burns out. After the stove goes out and cools down, you can lay a new batch of firewood and start the process all over again. It is necessary to take out the ashes after several fireboxes - the firewood burns out completely, only a small pile of ash remains from the bookmark and a couple of coals from the lowest firewood.

This oven for the garage is heated with such "wood"

Here is a brief summary of the principle of operation of this unit. As you can see, there is not only upper combustion, but also afterburning of gases. Very simple and really works well.

Manufacturing process

Most likely you have already understood how to do everything, but we will briefly describe the process. First, let's talk about the materials that are needed for this stove. Most often, 50-liter propane tanks are used. A barrel with thick walls and a piece of pipe with a diameter of 300 mm to 600 mm will do. The height of the case in finished form is from 110 cm to 200 cm. In addition, you will need:

These are all the necessary materials. Now actually about what and how to do. We will proceed from the fact that we make a garage stove from a gas cylinder.

That's all. Do-it-yourself garage oven made.

Improvements

Design improvements swing ease of use. The most inconvenient thing is the need to turn over a heavy body in order to shake out the ashes. To get rid of this, an ash pan and traditional grates are made in the lower part. The solution is understandable, but this innovation can lead to the fact that the firewood will burn faster - air will be sucked through the door slots. If there is a lot of oxygen in the lower part, the firewood will burn quickly, and not in smoldering mode, as happens in the original design. The way out is to make the door airtight, with sides and a seal.

Efficient and economical garage oven - dimensional drawing

The second improvement concerns the number and shape of the ribs on the air duct disk. They are made not from corners or a channel, but from steel strips. They are bent and slightly displaced, so that passing the air, as it were, twists. 6-8 pieces are welded instead of the original 4. This alteration gives only pluses - air is more evenly distributed over the combustion zone, firewood burns evenly over the entire area.

Brick ovens give softer heat, but until they heat up themselves, they will not heat the garage. If you are going to heat daily, this option is good. If the garage will be heated periodically, it is better to make a metal stove - it is long and dreary to disperse a frozen brick stove, and it will start heating in two hours.

For those who decide to put a brick oven in the garage, we will lay out the order of a small (relatively) oven with a heating panel and a hob (just in case).

A stove made of solid ceramic bricks (not burnt). Without taking into account the battle, 290 pieces are required. Laying is carried out on a clay mortar, the thickness of the seams is about 0.5-1.8 cm.

A separate foundation is needed for this furnace - the mass will be under 500 kg. Its dimensions are larger than the dimensions of the oven by 15-20 cm.

Furnace lining is desirable (laying fireclay bricks on fireclay mortar). Bricks are undermined for furnace casting. The dimensions of the bed for the grate, stove and doors should be larger than the dimensions of the casting. The gap is necessary to compensate for thermal expansion and also for laying a heat-insulating layer around the doors. This will reduce the formation of cracks next to them (due to different thermal expansion).

Asbestos cord has traditionally been used as a heat-insulating material. If you don't want to deal with asbestos, you can cut mineral wool cardboard into strips. Only it must withstand very high temperatures - up to 1200 ° C (minimum 850 ° C).

Installed in the 6th row, the valve allows you to switch the furnace into winter and summer modes. This is convenient in the off-season, when full power is not required, but it is already damp.

The height of the furnace can be increased by repeating the 14th and 15th rows.

See the video for the process of pre-laying a furnace without mortar (recommended in order to pick up bricks and understand what's what).

Drawings and diagrams

Describe all the designs for a long time. Much can be understood from the drawings.

We make a stove in the garage with our own hands

Unlike electric heaters, garage stoves are cheaper to operate - depending on the design, they can be heated with firewood and wood waste, woodworking waste, used engine oil, etc. To minimize financial investments in organizing heating, craftsmen make a garage oven with their own hands.

A homemade stove in the garage is made mainly of sheet iron, thick-walled barrels or pipes. There are also compact brick stoves. The design is selected based on the availability of materials and fuel, the requirements for the functionality of a garage oven - for example, it can be equipped with a hob.

A homemade stove has an open combustion chamber, which means that oxygen for combustion comes from the room. In addition, part of the flue gases enter the air. For this reason, exhaust ventilation must be provided in the garage. The stove is installed away from flammable objects, the wall and floor finishes must be resistant to combustion.

Consider how to make a furnace in the garage, using the example of the most common designs that have proven their effectiveness and ease of use.

Potbelly stove

The metal wood burning stove for the garage is characterized by:

high level of heating with compact dimensions;
"omnivorous" - the use of various types of solid fuel is allowed;
light weight - installation of the foundation is not required;
the ability to use for heating water and food;
a simple design that you can do yourself, having the skill of welding.

Metal stove-stove for the garage

Wood-burning home-made potbelly stoves, despite external differences, consist of the following elements:

firebox (the size of the firewood and the volume of a serving of fuel depend on the dimensions of the firebox, which affects the burn-through time of one bookmark);
grates (a grate on which fuel is placed) necessary to create traction;
ash pan (compartment where ash from burnt fuel gets into);
chimney (a pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm, which serves to remove flue gases).

Attention! When planning to install a potbelly stove in the garage, decide in advance on the choice of fuel. If, in addition to firewood, it is planned to use coal, sawdust and other types of fine-grained fuel, the size of the holes or the distance between the bars of the grate should be reduced to 15 mm. For wood-burning stoves, this figure can be 40 mm.

The disadvantage of wood-burning stoves is the high rate of fuel burnout, as a result of which a significant part of the thermal energy escapes along with the flue gases. A metal furnace for heating a garage is equipped with a chimney that leads through a wall or ceiling to the street. If the chimney pipe is mounted from several bends located at an angle relative to each other, the air in the room will additionally warm up. If there is free space, a long inclined chimney is installed for the same purpose.

Scheme for mounting the chimney in the stove

For the manufacture of a cylindrical body of the simplest potbelly stove, a 40-liter propane cylinder, a pipe or a metal barrel with a thickness of at least 2 mm is suitable. Sheet iron allows you to make a rectangular stove.

The cylindrical body can be positioned vertically or horizontally, depending on the available space in the room. The vertical stove is more compact, but the size of the firebox greatly limits the size of the firewood.

The branch pipe for the chimney is welded into the hole on the side or lid of the stove. At the gas cylinder, a hole for the pipe can be cut in the center of the upper rounded part, but in this case the stove remains without a hob. To create a more practical unit in a vertical design, a convex cover is cut off from the cylinder and replaced with a piece of sheet metal.

Cylindrical horizontal gas cylinder furnace

If the cylindrical body is horizontal, to create a hob, a steel sheet is welded to the top and its edges are provided with supports for rigidity. Or a metal burner is welded into the body.

A hole for the firebox is cut in the side of the vertically located cylindrical body and below for the ash pan, metal doors are installed on them - ready-made or made from a cut-out piece of metal with welded hinges and a valve. A round grate is laid on the corners welded inside the body.

If the body is located horizontally, it can be divided by a rectangular grate into a furnace compartment and an ash pan, while the corresponding doors are installed at the end of the body. The second option is to weld a rectangular box made of sheet iron to the bottom of the body, in which holes are drilled or a grate is welded.

Do-it-yourself cylindrical vertical oven

Potbelly stove with increased efficiency

To increase the heat transfer of an iron stove, it is recommended to make it two-way - that is, to force the hot gas to pass through special channels inside the case, actively giving off heat to the room.

The two-way heater is made of mild steel sheet. It is important to use steel grade St10 or St20, since the construction of high-carbon or alloy steel is less reliable - when heated to high temperatures, the metal hardens, which causes cracking of the welds.

Dimensional diagram for the manufacture of a stove in the garage

Two-way wood-burning garage oven requires the use of:

sheet steel 4-5 mm thick (for the body, chimneys, firebox and ash pan doors);
sheet steel 6 mm thick (for the roof of the firebox, which experiences the maximum thermal load);
pipes with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney pipe;
corrugated reinforcing rods with a diameter of 16-18 mm for grate grate;
rolled metal for the manufacture of legs (profile pipe 40x40 mm, corner with a shelf 40 mm, etc.);
metal latches, hinges and handles for doors.

The above drawings will help determine the basic dimensions of the elements of the stove. To make it, you need to know how to weld metal with a continuous seam. All seams are checked for strength and tightness.

Increasing the efficiency of iron stoves

A potbelly stove of standard configuration or a two-way stove will be improved in order to increase heat transfer. The easiest way to do this is to weld metal corners or pipes to the body, which perform the function of convective fins. The total heat transfer area increases, plus the intensity of air exchange increases, due to which the room warms up noticeably faster.

A rectangular potbelly stove can be bricked on one or more sides - the masonry will serve as a heat accumulator, and the stove will continue to heat the garage even after the firewood has completely burned out. If the furnace body is cylindrical, a barrel-in-barrel construction is made for the same purpose. In this case, a special backfill between the furnace body and the outer shell serves as a heat accumulator.

The design of the furnace "barrel in a barrel" for heating the garage

The furnace in the garage is made from two barrels of different diameters. At the one that will serve as a casing, cut off the lid, cut a hole for the furnace door in the side part, placing it at least 12 cm from the bottom. The edges of the hole are bent inward, as is the upper edge of the barrel itself. The door is made of sheet iron, several holes are drilled in the lower part for air inflow, hinges, a handle and a valve are welded.

The made casing with an attached door is installed on a channel or brick base (it is important to leave an air gap between the bottom of the stove and the floor, so the base should not be solid). A layer of pebbles mixed with sand, dry clay or soil (not peaty) is poured on the bottom of the casing. The backfill is pre-calcined. Do not use stones of rocks that crack when heated or emit harmful substances.

The backfill layer at the bottom is lightly tamped so that there are no voids left. In the barrel, which will serve as the inner body of the stove, a hole is cut corresponding to the hole in the casing, its edges are also bent inward. In the upper end part of the body, closer to the edge, a hole for the chimney is drilled and a pipe is welded in. The rest of the lid space can be used as a hob if necessary.

The inner casing must be installed along the same axis as the casing so that the backfill layer is the same around the entire circumference. Tiles of brick or stone hewn to size are fixed around the holes for the firebox, they are attached to clay mortar. The rest of the space between the housing and the casing is filled with backfill.

Another improvement option is the creation of a heat gun based on a simple vertical-type potbelly stove from a gas cylinder or a pipe with a wall thickness of 4 mm or more. A detailed diagram gives an idea of the device of the heating unit.

Diagram of the device of the heating unit: front view, top view

Sectional view of the heating device

The lower part of the furnace from a gas cylinder is made according to standard technology. The future heat gun needs to equip a compartment for heating the air. For this purpose, the upper part of the body is cut off, a horizontal round plate is welded in, the diameter of which corresponds to the inner diameter of the cylinder. Strips of steel are pre-welded onto the upper part of the plate - they serve as air exchanger fins and increase the heating efficiency.

Air heating compartment with steel fins

From opposite sides of the cover of the resulting air chamber, holes are drilled and branch pipes are welded. On the supply side, a small fan is required to increase the intensity of the air flow. Fan power depends on the size of the room. The chimney pipe is welded below the air chamber.

Homemade oven for heating a garage from a gas cylinder

Such a garage oven is convenient to use and has a high efficiency, but its disadvantages include energy dependence, since electricity is required to operate the fan. The second drawback is that the homemade product does not have a hob.

Heater in operation

A stove in a garage for mining is a convenient option if it is possible to extract liquid fuel inexpensively or for free (such units can run on other oils, diesel fuel). The heater is a fire hazard - it is important to ensure that the fuel does not contain water, otherwise splashes of burning oil will fly out through the holes in the afterburner (perforated pipe).

A do-it-yourself heater is made on used oil from sheet metal, pipes or barrels. The fuel tank and upper chamber may be cylindrical or rectangular.

Waste oil stove design

Guided by the proposed drawing, you can make a classic furnace for testing in the garage. Fuel is poured into the lower tank, a combustible liquid is used to ignite it. The released pyrolysis gases in the perforated afterburner are mixed with air and burn out already in the upper chamber, equipped with an internal partition.

Such a garage stove is easy to assemble, but not very economical - about 2 liters of mining is required per hour of work. During its operation, the smell of burning and fuel is noticeable, the room should be well ventilated.

Dimensional diagram of a homemade waste oil stove

A furnace for working out in a garage can be a design with drip fuel supply. This is a safer option for garage use. There are several options for such heaters, but the principle of the device is general: it is necessary to provide a metered supply of fuel and air flow to the combustion chamber.

Furnace for testing with drip fuel supply

Since the oil pipeline runs along the afterburner pipe, the fuel has time to heat up and evaporate more actively, once it enters the combustion chamber. The walls of a working furnace are red-hot, so the craftsmen from the dropper stove at working out with their own hands create a full-fledged liquid fuel boiler, equipping a water jacket around the body. The water circuit makes it possible to fully warm up your large garage.

A universal option can be called a wood-fired oven and mining. Usually this is a hybrid of a small wood-burning stove, the body of which, if necessary, can serve as the upper chamber of a classic heater for testing. The reservoir for liquid fuel is located outside the body of the potbelly stove and is connected to it by a straight or curved perforated afterburner.

Another option for a hybrid stove:

the lower part of the body is a classic wood stove;
the upper part of the housing is removable, it consists of a cover, an afterburner and an upper combustion chamber;
the afterburner is equipped with a removable casing that turns it into a chimney when the stove is running on wood;
inside the housing there is a reservoir for liquid fuel, which is removed or inserted depending on the type of energy carrier used.

Hybrid stove for garage heating

When making such a unit, it is required to qualitatively adjust the size and weld all the elements. The convenience of universal stoves lies in the wide choice of fuel.

Conclusion

Having figured out how to make a stove of one type or another, you can choose the best option, taking into account the complexity of the design and efficiency. Making a heating unit in a garage with your own hands makes it possible to optimize the costs of creating a comfortable environment for car repair and maintenance work.

Video on the manufacture of a stove for working out for heating a garage:

A private garage is a specific space and is usually very cold in winter. Such a microclimate is absolutely not useful either for a person or for a car. At the same time, the use of standard electric heaters is often too expensive and inefficient.

It remains to make a garage oven with your own hands, choosing one of the appropriate options. We offer for consideration four ways of arranging stove heating, each of which has its own characteristics in the creation and operation.

Visual diagrams and video instructions will help you decide on the design of the furnace, assemble and connect the unit yourself.

A capital garage with insulation is not available to every car owner. Most often, at the disposal of the owner of the vehicle is a metal structure, devoid of any insulation. Any thermal energy leaves such a structure almost instantly.

When solving the problem of heating a garage space, you should not evaluate its need for heat based on a similar experience with a residential building. And it's not just the lack of insulation.

There is a so-called square-cube law, which states that when the dimensions of a geometric body decrease, the ratio of the surface area of this body to its volume increases.

For normal storage of the car in the garage, the temperature inside the box should not fall below +5º and rise above +18º during the presence of the owners and the performance of repair work. Requirements are regulated by SP 113.13330.2012

This affects the size of the heat loss of the object, therefore, to heat one cubic meter of a small room, for example, a garage, more heat is needed than when heating a large house.

If a 10 kW heater may be enough for a two-story building, then a much smaller garage will need a unit with a capacity of about 2-2.5 kW of thermal energy.

To maintain a very modest operating temperature at 16 ° C, a 1.8 kW stove is enough. If you need to maintain only the optimum temperature for storing the car in the parking lot - 8 ° C - a 1.2 kW unit is suitable.

It turns out that the fuel consumption for heating a unit volume of garage space can be twice as high as for a residential building.

To thoroughly warm the entire garage, its walls and floor, even more heat energy is needed, i.e. more powerful heater. But even with insulation, heat will leave the room too quickly. Therefore, it is recommended not to heat the entire garage, but only the so-called workspace.

The use of heaters: pros and cons

Economy class garages are almost never insulated from the outside for a very simple reason - it is too expensive for a room that is not constantly used. Yes, this is not always possible, for example, in garage cooperatives, buildings are placed very close to each other, the gap does not allow installation of insulation.

To insulate the garage, you can use materials such as fiberboard, which die out when ignited. The use of plastic in such a room is unacceptable.

But the internal thermal insulation of the garage space can be problematic. When installing insulation material directly on metal walls, the so-called dew point occurs at the point of their contact, i.e. place for condensation. Almost always, when in contact with moisture, the insulation becomes unusable quite quickly.

And for the structure itself, such a situation can be disastrous. In a metal garage, insulation can be installed, but it is better to install a suitable material at a certain distance from the wall, about 20-50 mm.

From the floor should retreat 50-70 mm. It is best to use washers as a profile to avoid creating closed contours under the coating.

With this installation option, condensate will also appear, but due to air circulation under the insulation layer, moisture will gradually evaporate without causing any significant damage to the structure.

However, for a garage that is constantly heated, this option is not suitable, since the humidity inside the room will be excessively high most of the time. This will put at risk both the health of people and the condition of the car.

When insulating a metal structure between it and the insulating material, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap for regular condensate drainage

As a material for such “ventilated” insulation, it is recommended to use boards, for example, fiberboard, chipboard, that is, wood materials that are self-extinguishing when ignited. The recommended thickness is about 5 mm.

Flat ondulin or its analogues are perfect. These materials have the ability to reflect infrared radiation, which provides efficient heating.

But plastic, even with attenuation properties, is categorically not recommended to put in the garage. Such materials, when ignited, emit toxic fumes, due to which people who escaped the fire can simply get poisoned. It is also forbidden to use plates containing asbestos as insulation.

When insulating a cold brick garage, it is recommended that you first plaster the walls with a vermiculite compound to protect them from moisture. The walls of a metal garage should be painted in two layers, after pre-priming the base.

The walls of the insulated garage must be treated with a water-repellent compound to protect the building from the damaging effects of condensate

Overview of options

For the garage, the following options for home-made stoves are most often used:

brick wood stove;
potbelly stove;
long burning stove;
working furnace.

Each of these do-it-yourself garage stove options has certain advantages and disadvantages. Some units can be combined to expand the possibilities for heating the garage and make this process more convenient and profitable.

In the construction of a small stove in the garage, you can actually use junk handy tools and materials, these are:

Image gallery

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Video presentation of the device in the garage of an autonomous heating system based on the stove:

The options for home-made stoves are quite diverse, and the designs of such devices are not particularly complicated. You will need skills in working with metal, a welding machine and quite affordable materials. A properly made oven works efficiently and lasts a long time.

Looking for an efficient way to heat your garage? Or do you have experience in making and using a stove? Please leave comments on the article and ask questions on the topic.