Fistula in the pipe: repair without welding, how to fix it on a hot water pipe, in a plumbing pipeline, what is it. How to close a fistula in a pipe - possible options proven by practice Bandage for a hot water pipe

01.06.2020

Method number 1, the surest is to install a clamp.

One of the oldest, proven and reliable means of eliminating leaks in a pipe is a clamp. A small car clamp will do if the diameter of the fistula is less than 0.5 mm, like a needle. For the clamp, you need to cut a rubber strip a few millimeters wider than the clamp itself. The length of the rubber strip should be equal to the girth of the pipe, minus 1 cm. Open and put the clamp on the pipe, fixing it slightly. Place a cut-out rubber gasket under the clamp and cover the fistula with a clamp with a gasket. Then tighten the clamp either with a screwdriver or a special key, depending on the design of the clamp.

If the fistula is large in diameter, it should have a collar at the ready, wider and more powerful. The surface of the fistula should be smooth, so it must be cleaned with sandpaper. If this is not done, the water will ooze in places of irregularities around the fistula. The rubber gasket is cut out and the clamp is installed in the same way as in the first case.

The clamp should be 7-15 mm larger than the diameter of the pipe. This difference also depends on the thickness of the rubber gasket.

Method number 2, temporary. Cold welding - "ambulance" for small fistulas.

One option to seal a fistula in a pipe is to do it with cold welding. The method is easier, but not always justified. Suitable only for sealing the smallest fistulas and is more of a temporary solution. If you are not going to take more serious measures, then you must constantly monitor the condition of the pipe in this place. Cold welding, over time, due to temperature, can flake off the pipe and leak. There are times when cold welding is at the ready, we open the growths, and the fistula turns out to be much larger than expected. Therefore, even when working with cold welding, it does not hurt to have a clamp on hand.

Despite the fragility of this repair method, many are interested in how to seal a fistula in a pipe using cold welding.

If you chose this method to fix a leak, you should clean the problematic part of the pipe with sandpaper and dry it. It is better to apply cold welding not pointwise, but in a thick and wide layer around the entire circumference of the pipe. Then the repair of the pipe will be more reliable.

Method number 3, folk.

There is another way to eliminate fistulas, which refers more to folk remedies than to professional advice. Craftsmen do this with a bandage and epoxy. The pipe at the site of the fistula is wrapped with a bandage and epoxy is applied over it. The pipe must be dry. As a temporary remedy for pipes where there is no high pressure this option might work. But I am inclined to believe that this remedy is from the series of “need for invention is cunning” and, as a way to eliminate a fistula in water supply pipes, I do not recommend using it.

If you have had to fix leaks in water pipes more than once and they are all in clamps, it makes sense to seriously think about the issue. It is worth allocating funds for this even from the most modest family budget, because the flooding of your apartment and neighbors will still cost more in the end.

The formation of a fistula in a heating or water supply riser mounted from metal pipes, is not uncommon. The situation needs to be corrected as soon as possible. Therefore, information on how to close a fistula in the pipe and what methods are available to eliminate it will not be superfluous.

The presence of a reddish-colored build-up on the pipe, which is called pitting, indicates a problem and that the pipeline can break through at any time (read also: "What to do if a pipe breaks and how to prevent it"). Damage occurs as a result of partial destruction or general wear of the line, or under the influence of stray currents. When a fistula is detected, the reason for its appearance no longer matters, the main thing is to eliminate it as soon as possible.

with a bolt;
using a temporary bandage;
with the use of adhesive bandage;
cold welding method.

Seal the hole with a bolt

Expand the fistula in the pipe with a drill.
Cut the thread with a tap.
Screw the bolt into the hole formed.

tourniquet medical;
thick glove;
bicycle tire;
boot shaft, etc.

Seal with adhesive bandage

Clean the pipeline from dirt with a metal brush, treat its surface with acetone or gasoline and take 15 minutes to dry.
Tapes are cut from fiberglass, the length of which depends on the diameter of the pipe - it is necessary that the winding has at least 6 layers. The width of the material must exceed the cross section of the pipeline by at least a third.
BF-2 glue is applied to the edges of the tape, then one side of it is covered with an epoxy adhesive with a spatula.
The tool is pressed firmly against the fiberglass so that it is well saturated with glue.
Then the tape is tightly wound on a previously prepared surface so that its center covers the problem area.
The bandage is fastened with a metal tape.
After 24 hours, it is allowed to use the repaired pipeline.

Cold welding method

The hole is enlarged with a drill.
The surface of the pipeline is degreased and cleaned with acetone.
When the pipe dries, a product called "cold welding" is applied to it and waited for it to completely harden - usually it takes about 10 minutes.

hole filling process

A thin tape is cut from a piece of rubber - its width should be 2-4 millimeters more than the same parameter for the clamp. The length of the cut is measured by wrapping the material around the pipe. The excess piece of tape is cut off.
The clamp is opened and placed on the pipe, then it is not strongly grabbed.
A rubber gasket is placed under the clamp and carefully advanced to the place where the hole appears.
After covering the fistula, the clamp is tightened with a screwdriver or wrench, depending on the features of the device of the protracted product.

First of all, turn off the water and drain it from the pipeline.
Before installing the clamp, carefully inspect the pipe. When its surface is uneven, it should be smoothed out with sandpaper to prevent fluid from flowing through the roughness.
A rubber lining is cut out under the clamp and placed on the hole.

tubespec.com

Different ways to seal a fistula in a pipeline - SamStroy

The formation of a fistula in a heating or plumbing riser mounted from metal pipes is not uncommon. The situation needs to be corrected as soon as possible. Therefore, information on how to close a fistula in the pipe and what methods are available to eliminate it will not be superfluous.

The presence of a reddish-colored build-up on the pipe, which is called pitting corrosion, indicates a problem and that the pipeline can break through at any time. Damage occurs as a result of partial destruction or general wear of the line, or under the influence of stray currents. When a fistula is detected, the reason for its appearance no longer matters, the main thing is to eliminate it as soon as possible.

A variety of ways to close the fistula

In order to properly deal with the problem, first of all, you should figure out what a fistula in the pipeline is. This is a hole in the pipe through which water flows out.

You can fix it in several ways:

With bolt;

With the use of a temporary bandage;

With the use of adhesive bandage;

cold welding method.

But at the same time, it is imperative to drain the water from the system by closing the valves and opening all available taps.

Seal the hole with a bolt

This option involves a number of steps:

1. Expand the fistula in the pipe with a drill.

2. Cut the thread with a tap.

3. Screw the bolt into the hole formed.

This method cannot be used when the pipes are too old, since it will be impossible to thread them, and attempts to do this usually end in an increase in the size of the leak.

Repair with temporary bandage

This method is used when the fistula on the pipeline has an oblong, elongated appearance.

A bandage is applied to the hole using sealing gaskets, which can be made from such products:

Tourniquet medical;

Thick glove;

Bicycle tire;

Boot shaft, etc.

The main thing is that the size of the rubber gasket significantly exceeds the size of the hole. To fix the bandage on the pipeline, clamps or bolts are used.

Seal with adhesive bandage

The elimination of the fistula by this method is carried out in stages:

1. Clean the pipeline from dirt with a metal brush, treat its surface with acetone or gasoline and take 15 minutes to dry.

2. Tapes are cut from fiberglass, the length of which depends on the diameter of the pipe - it is necessary that the winding has at least 6 layers. The width of the material must exceed the cross section of the pipeline by at least a third.

3. BF-2 glue is applied to the edges of the tape, then one side of it is covered with an epoxy adhesive with a spatula.

4. The tool is pressed firmly against the fiberglass so that it is well saturated with glue.

5. Then the tape is tightly wound on a previously prepared surface so that its center covers the problem area.

6. The bandage is fastened with a metal tape.

7. After 24 hours, it is allowed to use the repaired pipeline.

In the case when the system is laid in an unheated room, where the temperature does not exceed 17 degrees, the pipeline can be used only after 4 days.

Cold welding method

Repair water pipes without welding produced using a special composition:

1. The hole is expanded with a drill.

2. The surface of the pipeline is degreased and cleaned with acetone.

3. When the pipe dries, apply a product called "cold welding" to it and wait until it is completely cured - usually it takes about 10 minutes.

When using "cold welding" or epoxy adhesive, rubber gloves must be used. If the glue gets on the skin, it must be removed with cotton wool and acetone, and then wash your hands. warm water with soap.

hole filling process

When the system is worn out, it is advisable to prepare several clamps having the same diameter as the pipeline. In addition, you need to stock up on rubber under them. In the event that the fistula of the water pipe appears at night, such preparation will not be superfluous, since the emergency team is unlikely to arrive in a matter of minutes.

If the hole is small, it can be sealed using a conventional vehicle clamp:

1. A thin tape is cut from a piece of rubber - its width should be 2-4 millimeters more than the same parameter for the clamp. The length of the cut is measured by wrapping the material around the pipe. The excess piece of tape is cut off.

2. The clamp is opened and placed on the pipe, then it is not strongly grabbed.

3. A rubber gasket is placed under the clamp and carefully advanced to the place where the hole appears.

4. After covering the fistula, the clamp is tightened with a screwdriver or wrench, depending on the features of the device of the protracted product.

When a fistula is found at all small size and the absence of a clamp at hand, the hole can be closed with the end of a match. But this method is rarely used, since it is rarely possible to eliminate a leak in old pipelines - it only increases in size. Even if the gap is successfully sealed with a match, it must be repaired as soon as possible with a clamp.

To eliminate a serious fistula on the pipe hot water, you will need a more powerful clamp:

1. First of all, turn off the water and drain it from the pipeline.

2. Before mounting the clamp, carefully inspect the pipe. When its surface is uneven, it should be smoothed out with sandpaper to prevent fluid from flowing through the roughness.

3. Under the clamp, cut out the rubber lining and place it on the hole.

From the above information, it is clear that it is quite possible to eliminate the fistula in the pipe with your own hands - neither special tools nor special skills are required. If there are metal risers, you need to prepare several clamps and rubber gaskets.

samstroy.com

The formation of fistulas in the pipe

Sometimes it happens that in DHW pipes that have worked out a short service life (a year and a half, sometimes less), microscopic holes are already formed, the so-called. "fistulas" through which water begins to break out under pressure. What could be the reason? Two factors can influence the formation of fistulas.

Firstly, the quality of the pipe itself plays an important role, whether it is made in accordance with GOST (in our case, in accordance with GOST 3262-75 "STEEL PIPES FOR WATER AND GAS. TECHNICAL CONDITIONS"), here, most importantly, chem. steel composition with inclusions harmful impurities and compliance with the pipe wall thickness. On the inner surface of defective pipes, there are sometimes mushroom-shaped influxes of metal, which, under the pressure of water, can break off and form cavities and holes.

Secondly, internal corrosion has an impact, protection against which must initially be given close attention, because. DHW hot water is a weak but aggressive medium. According to clause 13.1. SNiP 41-02-2003 " Heating network", when choosing pipe protection methods, it is necessary to take into account the main parameters of network water, such as: water hardness, ph, the content of sulfates and chlorides in water, organic impurities, oxygen and free carbonic acid.

13.1 When choosing a protection method steel pipes heating networks from internal corrosion and make-up water treatment schemes, the following main parameters of network water should be taken into account: water hardness; pH value; oxygen and free carbonic acid content in water; sulfate and chloride content; content of organic impurities in water (water oxidizability).

This must be taken into account when operating heating networks, protecting pipes from internal corrosion, in accordance with clause 13.2. SNiP 41-02-2003 "Heat networks". Can be done by increasing the pH (within the recommendations of the PTE), reducing the oxygen content in the network water, coating the inner surface of steel pipes with anti-corrosion compounds or using corrosion-resistant steels, using a reagent-free electrochemical water treatment method, using water treatment and deaeration of make-up water, using corrosion inhibitors .

13.2 Protection of pipes from internal corrosion should be carried out by: increasing the pH, within the limits of the PTE recommendations; reducing the oxygen content in network water; coating the inner surface of steel pipes with anti-corrosion compounds or using corrosion-resistant steels; using a reagent-free electrochemical method of water treatment; using water treatment and deaeration make-up water; the use of corrosion inhibitors.

With increased corrosion, pits will form, first of all, in places where there is a local decrease in wall thickness or depression, and in places with a heterogeneous chemical. composition. To control internal corrosion, according to SNiP 41-02-2003 "Heat Networks" p.13.3. corrosion indicators should be provided.

13.3 To control internal corrosion on the supply and return pipelines of water heating networks, at the outlets from the heat source, and, in the most typical places, installation of corrosion indicators should be provided.

It should be noted that, although rare, stray currents that somehow pass through the pipe can lead to an increased degree of corrosion.

sklerometr.ru

How to close a fistula in a pipe under pressure in the plumbing and heating system

The article below will help you independently resolve the issue of sealing fistulas on pipes. The problem of how to close a fistula in a pipe under pressure is really very relevant.

After all, a leak in the pipes of the water supply, heating, drain can occur at the most inopportune moment, and it must be solved quickly and efficiently.

First of all, it is necessary to understand that all the proposed tips are interesting, but, unfortunately, they are not long-term, and the results in the future can be much “deplorable”.

Not only are they not expensive, but they are also easy to install. Their installation is not complicated, and it is easy to do it yourself.

When talking about methods of sealing leaks, a "breakthrough" of a small scale is meant. If water breaks through with a fountain, then there is only one way out - replacing the pipeline.

A fistula is called pitting corrosion, which is formed from partial destruction of the material, or from general old age. The result is a hole through which the liquid flows out.

The external visual manifestation of the fistula is swollen paint and rust outgrowths. Seeing such a growth, one should not rush to rip it off, because the size of the damage under it is not predictable.

In general, fixing pitting is not a difficult job, but, nevertheless, it also needs to be seriously prepared.

For such events you will need (experts say that you must always have on hand):

Clamp (a couple of pieces).
Rubber pads (these are easy to make from any materials at hand such as old boots, thick rubber gloves, a bicycle tire, and so on).
Screwdriver and bolts.
Epoxy materials.
Degreasing fluid.
Emery.
Cold welding.

See also - how to close a leak in the heating pipeline: methods of elimination

Causes of fistulas

The reasons for the appearance of fistulas on a water pipe are most often reduced to one denominator. This is the effect of corrosion.

The most suitable temperature indicator for corrosive formations is +15 degrees. Most often, pipe-rolling materials in this mode are in the spring, summer and autumn periods.

It also accelerates corrosion damage and water located in the system. Over time, inside metal pipelines grow rust.

The metal in such products becomes thinner every year. And here comes the moment when corrosion breaks through the wall completely. As a result, a leak is formed.

When a small fistula occurs, the water slowly flows down the pipeline, where a puddle subsequently forms.

It is necessary to eliminate this problem immediately, without waiting until it turns into a big nuisance. If the leak is small, then it can be sealed under pressure without turning off the water supply.

Leaks in various systems

A fistula in a hot water pipe or any other system that consists of metal pipes can be quickly repaired in the following ways:

Option 1. Medical bandage and cement solution. It is cut into pieces, soaked in a previously prepared cement mortar. These bandages are wound around the leakage zone, forming a cocoon-like structure.

In conclusion, the resulting structure is also covered with a cement mortar. It dries out in about one day.

Option 2. Pieces of rubber. The rubber is cut into strips. Each of them should be slightly longer than the circumference of the pipe.

Option 3. Edible salt and bandage. As a rule, this method is used to seal leaks under pressure in couplings, elbows, etc. The leaking area is wrapped with a bandage mixed with salt.

When dissolved, the salt fixes a microleakage. If we compare this method of sealing under pressure, then it is immediately worth noting that it is not as reliable as the first two.

Option 4. Bandage. This method can be used for pressure pipes. The bandage is one of the oldest and most proven options. A small car clamp can be applied to a fistula with a volume of up to 0.005 cm3.

For the clamp, a strip of rubber is cut out, a couple of millimeters wider than the clamp itself. The length of the strip must be one centimeter shorter than the circumference of the pipeline. The clamp is put on the pipeline, and a rubber gasket is placed under it.

All this construction is obliged to completely cover the fistula. Next, the clamp is tightened. With these measures, the surface at the site of corrosion must be cleaned.

Video: ways to close a fistula

It should not contain irregularities. If this is not done, then the liquid will pass through the bandage in the area of uneven zones.

Seal fistula in plastic pipelines

How to eliminate a fistula in a water pipe if it is made of plastic. Plastic pipe materials have been used very often recently.

They quickly replaced the usual steel products, thanks to a wide range of positive characteristics. These materials are not only easy to install, but also easy to repair when fistulas appear.

You can repair a leak on a plastic workpiece by using couplings and fittings (they change part of the line). At the same time, a new piece of pipe with threaded threads is prepared.

By means of connecting elements, it is installed in place of the site that has become unusable. If you are not sure that all the actions were performed correctly, then you can seek the advice of a professional master.

He, after inspecting the structure, will give an accurate answer whether it is suitable for operation, or advise a complete replacement of the damaged pipe.

This method can be applied not only to plastic pipes, but also to metal ones. Only to eliminate the fistula in this way under pressure will not work. You will have to worry about turning off the water in the plumbing system.

In order for the water pressure (find out the optimal values for the plumbing system) not to interfere with repairs, it is necessary to close the main valve. It is usually installed in the toilet.

Video: fixing water leaks in affordable ways

How to brew a fistula in a pipeline with water

How to brew a fistula in plastic pipe with water can be learned from the method that is attached below.

Unlike the previous option, which could be used not only for plastic products, this method is only suitable for working with PP pipe materials.

Actions are carried out using a special tool for soldering plastic - an iron. This tool melts the prepared components, and fixes them after cooling.

To seal minor damage to the site, all elimination measures can be carried out under pressure.

But, for an entity of considerable size, plumbing system will have to be closed, since it will be impossible to weld the defect under pressure.

Anyone can work with an iron. You don't need any special experience for this. Instructions are attached to such devices, where the whole process of work is described step by step.

After carefully reading it, you can safely proceed to the repair of the PP pipeline. It is not difficult to weld a leak in this way.

Features of hot water supply

A fistula in the DHW pipe appears more often than in other places. The place that is most prone to this phenomenon is the riser. The first signs of danger in such a system are a rusty growth.

Video: how to close a leak on the slope

It has already been written above that if a decision is made to close the leak, then this build-up cannot be torn off. In the case of hot water, such actions can cause serious burns.

It is possible to close up such a fistula on the pipeline using a bolt or a temporary bandage. Both in the first and in the second case it is impossible to act under pressure. The water supply must be shut off, only after that you can do the work.

A small leak can be sealed under pressure using an adhesive bandage. The edges of the fiberglass coated with BF-2 glue are applied to the damaged area (the tape is applied very tightly). At the end, the tape must be pulled off with a metal tape. Such a section will be able to function under pressure only after 24 hours.

Also in this situation, you can close the leak with "cold welding". Under pressure, it is better not to do such work. The resulting hole is slightly enlarged with a drill, and the area is degreased.

When everything dries up, a composition is applied to the leaking gap. It must completely freeze. This takes approximately ten minutes.

If we consider the sources of water supply in private areas, then wells can be called the most promising. Compared to wells, they contain higher quality water. It practically does not need cleaning and additional filtration.

During well operation, the pump and water-lifting pipelines vibrate. This leads to weakening of the joints on the water-lifting mains, and, accordingly, leaks (fistulas) appear. Often this ends in serious accidents.

The well works with vibration of the lifting pipe due to pumping equipment, and this provokes loosening of the joints. As a result of the appearance of a fistula, the functioning of the well can be completely disrupted.

Many owners of private houses try to carry out repairs and fix such leaks on their own, but experts strongly recommend trusting this to professionals.

Such repairs cost a lot of money, but they are fully justified. Repair work on wells involves a number of complex operations that require special equipment.

For non-professional craftsmen, this work may not be possible. You can clean the well yourself, replace the pump. And holding these events will also require some skill in this matter.

Also, for craftsmen without experience and knowledge, who decide to close the "hole", you need to keep in mind the following information.

Illiterately carried out work can end in fatal results for the well. For example, it is impossible to extract scrap that was accidentally lowered when embedded in a well. And such a loss for amateurs who decide to do everything on their own is very common.

Video: replacement faucet under pressure

IMPORTANT! Well servicemen say that well flushing is a mandatory annual event. It can be omitted only for wells that are constantly operated.

No less important is the fact that specialists will immediately install true reason Problems. And this will make it possible to close leaks and avoid unnecessary extra costs. Plus, all the work will be done in the shortest possible time.

Now how to close a fistula in a pipe under pressure is clear. Having carefully studied the proposed options, you can quickly fix this unpleasant problem.

A variety of ways to close the fistula

In order to properly deal with the problem, first of all, you should figure out what a fistula in the pipeline is. This is a hole in the pipe through which water flows out.

You can fix it in several ways:

With bolt;

With the use of a temporary bandage;

With the use of adhesive bandage;

cold welding method.

But at the same time, it is imperative to drain the water from the system by closing the valves and opening all available taps.

Seal the hole with a bolt

This option involves a number of steps:

1. Expand the fistula in the pipe with a drill.

2. Cut the thread with a tap.

3. Screw the bolt into the hole formed.

This method cannot be used when the pipes are too old, since it will be impossible to thread them, and attempts to do this usually end in an increase in the size of the leak.

Repair with temporary bandage

This method is used when the fistula on the pipeline has an oblong, elongated appearance.

A bandage is applied to the hole using sealing gaskets, which can be made from such products:

Tourniquet medical;

Thick glove;

Bicycle tire;

Boot shaft, etc.

The main thing is that the size of the rubber gasket significantly exceeds the size of the hole. To fix the bandage on the pipeline, clamps or bolts are used.

Seal with adhesive bandage

The elimination of the fistula by this method is carried out in stages:

1. Clean the pipeline from dirt with a metal brush, treat its surface with acetone or gasoline and take 15 minutes to dry.

3. BF-2 glue is applied to the edges of the tape, then one side of it is covered with an epoxy adhesive with a spatula.

4. The tool is pressed firmly against the fiberglass so that it is well saturated with glue.

5. Then the tape is tightly wound on a previously prepared surface so that its center covers the problem area.

6. The bandage is fastened with a metal tape.

7. After 24 hours, it is allowed to use the repaired pipeline.

In the case when the system is laid in an unheated room, where the temperature does not exceed 17 degrees, the pipeline can be used only after 4 days.

Cold welding method

Repair of water pipes without welding is carried out using a special composition:

1. The hole is expanded with a drill.

2. The surface of the pipeline is degreased and cleaned with acetone.

3. When the pipe dries, apply a product called "cold welding" to it and wait until it is completely cured - usually it takes about 10 minutes.

When using "cold welding" or epoxy adhesive, rubber gloves must be used. If the glue gets on the skin, it must be removed with cotton wool and acetone, and then washed with warm water and soap.

hole filling process

If the hole is small, it can be sealed using a conventional vehicle clamp:

2. The clamp is opened and placed on the pipe, then it is not strongly grabbed.

3. A rubber gasket is placed under the clamp and carefully advanced to the place where the hole appears.

4. After covering the fistula, the clamp is tightened with a screwdriver or wrench, depending on the features of the device of the protracted product.

If a fistula of a very small size is found and there is no clamp at hand, the hole can be closed with the end of a match. But this method is rarely used, since it is rarely possible to eliminate a leak in old pipelines - it only increases in size. Even if the gap is successfully sealed with a match, it must be repaired as soon as possible with a clamp.

To eliminate a serious fistula on the hot water pipe, you will need a more powerful clamp:

1. First of all, turn off the water and drain it from the pipeline.

2. Before mounting the clamp, carefully inspect the pipe. When its surface is uneven, it should be smoothed out with sandpaper to prevent fluid from flowing through the roughness.

3. Under the clamp, cut out the rubber lining and place it on the hole.

Leakage of the heating system is not uncommon, and in most cases it happens unexpectedly, except for test runs of equipment at the beginning of the heating season. What caused the leak is not always possible to determine reliably, and it is not always important, since in the foreground in such situations is the restoration of the tightness of the heating circuit. As a rule, a thorough repair is postponed for the warm season, and if a leak is detected, they choose how to cover up the leak in the heating pipe temporarily.

Factors characterizing system depressurization

The heating system consists of the following main elements:

heating boiler;
pipeline;
radiators;
control and measuring and shut-off valves.

All of the listed elements are mounted in a heating circuit, the tightness of which depends on the integrity of the constituent elements and their connections.

The choice of method for restoring the integrity of the heating system depends on the following factors:

accessibility of the damage site;
leakage status (fistula, loss of tightness of a threaded connection, etc.);
the material of manufacture of the damaged element;
the possibility of shutting down the system.

Based on the combination of the above circumstances, a method is chosen how to most effectively close the leak in the heating pipe in the current situation.

Preparatory work

When spot repairing the heating system, first of all, it is necessary to establish a specific place for the leakage of the coolant. If the pipeline is laid hidden (in the wall, in the floor), lined decorative elements or equipped with thermal insulation, the task becomes more complicated.

Important! In a situation where a pipe or a joint embedded in a wall has leaked, it is advisable to consider the possibility of installing a new section of the pipeline, since it does not make sense to spoil the finish of the room for repairing a pipe with a high degree of wear.

On the alleged emergency section of the circuit, they are dismantled decorative trim and thermal insulation, the place of leakage is found, after which the nature and extent of damage, as well as its accessibility to repair, are assessed.

Spot repair of the heating system can be of three types:

mechanical - with the use of compressing and tightening devices, electric welding and other means not based on the use of sealing solutions;
chemical - using various kinds of sealing compounds that harden as a result of chemical reactions or drying;
combined - sealing the circuit using a combination of mechanical and chemical methods.

If a mechanical method of repair is chosen, and the damage is not significant (needle fistula or drip leak), the heating system can be left in operation before starting work to eliminate the leak. If the damage is more serious, then the heating must be turned off:

the autonomous boiler is turned off, the coolant is drained;
in system central heating it is necessary to close the valve of the common riser and hang a warning sign on it, and then also drain the water from the system.

The technology of processing the base before sealing the contour depends on the material of the pipeline, the status of the leak and the type of repair, but, in any case, the final result of the work is largely due to the quality of the surface preparation.

Methods for performing repairs with reference to the place of leakage

In most cases, it is possible to eliminate the leakage of the heating system on your own, without the involvement of professionals. To do this, consider the methods for producing spot repair of the contour with the most common damage.

Elimination of a fistula in a straight section of a steel pipeline by mechanical means

On a horizontal or vertical section of a solid steel pipe, due to a number of factors (wear, corrosion, material defect), a leak often occurs that can be eliminated independently and without significant costs.

If a fistula with a jet cross section of approximately a match has formed in a steel pipe with a diameter of up to 50 mm, then it can be eliminated even without special preparation of the base, but the thickness of the pipeline wall must be at least 3 mm. The area around the damage is cleaned of rust and scale with a file or grinder, after which a self-drilling screw with a sealing rubber washer is screwed into the hole with a drill. The length of the screw is selected in such a way that it protrudes minimally at the exit from the hole inside the pipe and in no case rests against the opposite wall.

Important! When using an electric drill, the coolant in the pipe must not be under pressure so that the water jet does not hit the tool and cause an electrical injury or breakage of the drill. For safety reasons, it is better to use a drill with a built-in 12 V battery, wrapped in a plastic bag with a slot for a chuck.

It is also better to know in advance how to close a hole in a heating pipe with a diameter of 50 mm or more and with a larger fistula cross section, since the consequences of damage to such a heat pipe are more serious, and the probability of an accident is no less.

The hole of the fistula is driven with a drill of a slightly larger diameter in such a way that then a bolt thread can be cut in it. The wall thickness must also be sufficient for threading. The table shows the correspondence of drills and threads (tap).

Hole diameters metric thread with normal pace

After cutting the thread, a bolt with a washer and a rubber seal is screwed into the hole. The length of the bolt is selected depending on the wall thickness - the part after screwing should not block the pipe lumen or rest against the opposite wall.

It is possible to eliminate the leakage of a steel heating pipe without threaded elements - by caulking and electric welding. The hole is reamed to the nearest diameter, after which a cone (chop) machined from steel is driven into it with a hammer. right size. The part of the chop remaining outside is ground down by a grinder to such an extent that a small protruding hat remains, which is then scalded by electric welding. This method of eliminating leakage is reliable and durable, but it should be remembered that rutile-coated electrodes must be used for welding galvanized pipes, and the pipe wall thickness must be sufficient (3 mm).

A single hole in the wall of a steel pipe can also be plugged with a narrow clamp.

Such a clamp can also be made independently from strip steel, but there is a large assortment of these devices on sale, the aesthetics of which are much higher. The clamp is selected according to the diameter of the pipe and, if there is no gasket included with it, such a sealing strip is cut out of rubber or paronite with a thickness of at least 3 mm. The device is put on the pipe, the gasket is combined with the fistula, and the clamp is crimped with the necessary force. This method of eliminating leakage is also applicable to pipelines made of copper or polymeric materials.

In a situation where several fistulas have formed on a small area, it is impossible to use the above repair methods - the pipe section is weakened, and it is not effective to repair leaks individually and even fraught with the destruction of the entire contour fragment. For damage to an oblong shape (crack), a narrow clamp, like a chop, cannot be installed.

If at the moment it is not possible to replace the entire emergency section, then clips are used to restore the tightness of the heating pipeline - wide clamps, the principle of operation of which is the same as that of narrow devices.

Repair of a pipeline in a straight section or a turn by chemical and combined methods

To eliminate the leakage of the heating pipeline, different kinds heat-resistant one- and two-component sealants used on both steel and polymer pipes. The most widespread are high-temperature silicone-based compounds, characterized by a high degree of adhesion, plasticity and the ability to withstand temperatures up to 350 degrees. These sealant mixtures differ from other types of silicone adhesives by having a reddish or brown tint.

Each of these compositions has its own instructions for use, set out on the packaging and providing for the use of joints and mates for sealing. But, if reinforcement is applied, they can also be used on a plane, that is, on the surface of a pipeline, both steel and polymer.

Before starting work, the coolant is drained from the heating system, and the area around the damage is cleaned of paint, degreased and dried.

Important! Adhesion silicone sealants to smooth surfaces is stronger than to rough ones, therefore, the repaired section of the pipe should not be treated with abrasives.

Reinforcement of the silicone sealing coating is made to increase the tensile strength of the shell and its resistance to mechanical damage. Serpyanka is used as reinforcement - fiberglass masking tape.

A sealant is applied to the prepared surface of the heating pipe in a continuous layer 2-3 mm thick, on top of which a sickle is screwed - in butt turns. A layer of sealant is again applied over the first layer of the mesh, and then a sickle again, but with 5 mm overlapping turns on each other. In total, there should be 4 or 5 layers of mesh with layers of silicone. It is necessary that the turns fit into an interference fit, without folds with voids, like bandaging - with the tape turning around the axis at the end of each layer to return in the opposite direction. Such bandaging should capture sections of the pipeline 10-20 cm in both directions from the damage. The last layer on the pipe is made of sealant, which is smoothed out with a hand dipped in soapy water. The end of the sickle is temporarily attached to the pipe with a nylon clamp away from the repaired area - after the composition has cured, it is cut off flush with the surface of the sealant.

Depending on the type of adhesive and the total thickness of the sealing layer, curing, which occurs from the contact of the composition with atmospheric moisture, requires from several hours to a day.

Using the same technology, using sickle reinforcement, they repair the heating system using heat-resistant rubber sealants - also durable, but elastic compounds that are successfully used both in everyday life and in production.

It should be borne in mind that silicone and rubber sealants are commercially available for use in automotive engines. If the performance characteristics of such compositions meet the requirements heating system, then the auto-sealant, designed for use in the repair of an internal combustion engine, will cope even more with the sealing of the heat pipe in everyday life.

To fix a leaking pipe in a domestic heating system, ready-made repair kits are often used, which include everything necessary for sealing. An example of such tools is the Siloplast repair kit, even equipped with protective rubber gloves. The main element of the leak elimination in the kit is a tape with special impregnation, which, upon contact with water (wetting during installation), hardens and forms a strong hermetic shell on the pipe, which does not need to be additionally coated with anything.

The method of application of Siloplast is described in detail on the packaging, and the success of the repair depends on the observance of this technology, as well as the quality of the base preparation. The repair kit can be used not only on straight, but also on curved sections of the pipe, as well as over threaded connections, the sealing material of which has lost its properties.

The material is produced for various areas of production, so when buying, you need to choose exactly the type of repair kit you need, one of them is Siloplast "For Home".

To restore the tightness of the heating system, special two-component compositions called “cold welding” are also used - mixtures based on epoxy resins with the addition of metal filler and additives that are responsible for the specific characteristics of the adhesive under certain conditions.

The resin in the composition ensures the plasticity of the material after curing, and the metal-containing component increases the strength and hardness of the binder. Cold welding is produced in liquid and plastic form. Specifications, including operating temperature and method of application, are indicated on the packaging. It remains only to choose the right type of sealant that corresponds to the operating conditions and the material of manufacture of the thermal circuit.

If the heating pipe does not leak significantly, then the question of how to cover the circuit in a straight section or a joint of a threaded connection can also be solved with improvised means, for example, using Minutka glue or identical in action. To do this, the repaired surface or crack must be cleaned of paint, degreased and dried. Then the prepared area is wrapped with a layer of serpyanka end-to-end and rubbed into the mesh cells with a regular baking soda(previously, the first turn is pointwise attached to the pipe with glue). Then another layer of mesh coils, already overlapped, is applied to the pipe, and the cells are again filled with soda. After laying the third layer of sickle with soda, the last turn of the tape is fixed with a nylon clamp, and glue from a tube is applied to the resulting clutch, starting from the site of damage. The glue is instantly absorbed into the soda and, reacting with it, also instantly hardens, forming a strong shell. It is necessary to apply glue to the entire surface of the winding, the tubes are squeezed out one by one as they are emptied, the number of tubes depends on the area of the repaired area.

If the damage to the pipe is a crack, then it is also stuffed with soda and glue is dripped on top, instantly sealing the damage. A sickle bandage is applied over the crack in the manner described above.

The method is applicable for the repair of both steel and polymer pipes.

There is another way to seal coolant leaks on a straight or oval section of a steel heating pipeline, as well as on top of a threaded connection - using a reinforced cement mortar bandage. To do this, the system is depressurized so that water does not ooze from the damage site, and the repaired area is cleaned of paint and rust. Then, an aqueous solution of the consistency of sour cream is prepared from cement grade 400 or 500, and the problematic section of the pipeline is bandaged in layers with a strip of canvas fabric that passes liquid well through itself (you can use a sickle or an ordinary medical bandage). Bandaging is carried out with coating of each layer cement mortar. As a result, a sleeve with a wall thickness of at least 2 cm should form on the pipe, which is covered with the last layer of the same solution.

The effectiveness of the method can be increased if, for mixing cement, not water is used, but PVA glue, but not its pasty variety, but emulsion. In addition, instead of cement, you can use coating waterproofing cement-based

Ceresit CR 65, designed specifically for the installation of waterproof coatings.

Important! The use of a cement bandage for sealing the heating pipeline is a temporary measure, since the cement is not plastic and poorly resists the tensile forces that will affect it during the thermal expansion of the pipes, so even reinforcement with sickle will not save from the occurrence of microcracks in the repair shell over time.

Elimination of leakage in places of threaded connections

If the coolant flows at the junction of pipe sections made by the threaded method, or at the points of connection to the heating radiator, shutoff valves, then the best action would be to dismantle the threaded connection to diagnose the cause of depressurization. This refers to the situation when, during the installation of the heating system, fittings designed for adjustment - adjustment with a seal were not used. The dismantling of the threaded connection, which is carried out after the coolant is drained from the system, will show the cause of the leak - thread wear or loss of sealant qualities.

In the first case, the thread profile is refreshed by passing a lerki (die) along it with cutting an additional 2-3 turns. If the thread is significantly destroyed, then you will have to insert a new pipeline fragment by welding or, again, a threaded connection (drive).

If the thread is in satisfactory condition, the sealing material is replaced. To do this, the threads are cleaned of the remnants of the old sealant and a new one is applied to it. For reliable sealing, it is recommended to use a combination of a fiber sealant (linen strand) and one of the types of sealant for threaded joints, including anaerobic ones, designed for independent use.

You can simplify this procedure by using a special universal impregnated sealing thread. The material of the thread can be natural or synthetic, impregnation is most often silicone. Such a thread is attractive by its ease of use, versatility and affordability, which allows you to carry out repairs yourself and without significant costs.

FUM tape is widely used as a sealant for a threaded connection - synthetic material, thanks to the content of fluorine resistant to high temperatures and chemicals.

FUM tape is produced in three types:

FUM-1 - with vaseline-based lubricant, for use in industrial pipelines, including those with aggressive media;
FUM-2 - does not contain lubricant, suitable for environments with oxidizing agents;
FUM-3 - for pipelines with non-aggressive media.

All three types of FUM tape are suitable for use in domestic heating systems and are quite effective when properly applied to the thread.

In cases where the leakage intensity is not significant, the dismantling of the threaded connection can be postponed until the end of the heating season, and the tightness of the connection can be restored by applying a reinforced bandage over the joint using one of the sealing compounds described above - silicone, rubber, cold welding.

Conclusion

When fixing a leak in a heating system, the effectiveness and longevity potential of the repair should be objectively assessed. Most of the means offered by manufacturers to eliminate leakage are designed to temporarily eliminate an emergency until drastic measures are taken, including production overhaul heating systems. Therefore, after diagnosing the causes of the leak and choosing how to cover up the damage, it is necessary to consult with professionals, not relying only on marketing advice in the store, sometimes provided by workers without experience in repair and construction activities. This will allow you to get an objective assessment of the situation and correctly plan repair activities at the end of the heating season in order to avoid aggravating the situation in the cold season.

Welding steel pipes is a responsible business, after which they are expected to work under pressure for a long time, and provide an uninterrupted supply of fluid for water supply or heating. Therefore, all seams must be performed with high quality, in compliance with the correct welding modes for specific situation. How water pipes are welded to minimize repair work? What to do if you need to weld a pipe in which there is already water?

The technology of welding pipelines, produced in accordance with the basic provisions, ensures the long-term operation of the entire system. To do this, it is important to observe slopes for the natural movement of the coolant. So, you do not have to redo the work twice.

It is also worth keeping a sufficient distance from the walls and between the pipes so that it is convenient for the welder to weld the joints with high quality. For more reliable penetration, a gap of 1-2 mm is left between the sides, where the molten metal flows.

Welding of main pipelines is carried out in several passes to ensure tightness. The gas pipeline is also installed according to the same principle. The welder performs the root seam by electric welding. It is important to achieve the formation of a reverse bead, which indicates good penetration of the sides. Subsequent layers are applied by automatic machines with filler wire and flux layer.

For more quality installation of the main pipeline, laser welding is used in the workshops, and only the last joints are made on site. Manual welding on pipes starts from the lowest part of the circle (in the horizontal position of the pipeline) and goes up. The weld metal is applied in “shelves” and raises the weld along the circumference to the highest point. This is done on both sides. It is necessary to finish the seam on solid metal. This prevents pores and fistulas.

When you may need to weld a pipe with water

Unfortunately, even if all the above rules are observed, welding work may be required on a pipeline that has already been put into operation. Most often this is due to mistakes made by previous welders. Perhaps poor eyesight did not allow the specialist to weld the joint with high quality, and the site began to leak. If water is supplied through this pipeline to a large area, which is already long time was disabled, then disabling it again can cause a lot of complaints. Therefore, it becomes necessary to carry out welding under pressure.

Welding a pipe with liquid may also be required in the event of an emergency tie-in, when there is no time to drain the system, and all that can be done is to turn off the pumps to reduce the pressure in the system. Either the area of all communications with water is so large that it will take too long to empty it, or it is too expensive (drain 20,000 liters of water for one seam). Welded connections of pipelines can be complicated by the presence of liquid in the work area due to a special slope, which is provided for natural gravity. In this case, even after draining the system, water will continue to drain and interfere with welding work.

Why is it difficult

Many welders are afraid of welding pipes with water because it is a difficult task, fraught with long anguish and no guarantee of a successful outcome. The imposition of molten particles of filler metal on a pore or fistula can lead to “fouling” of a problem area with a whole slide of seams, from under which liquid will seep in all directions. Instead of one leak, there are many streams.

Why is it so difficult to weld a pipeline under pressure? There are several reasons for this:

The pressure of water constantly cools the weld pool, preventing the deposited metal from fully adhering to the base metal.
The process is complicated by the constantly formed steam from the contact of the liquid with the heated iron. This makes it difficult to see the junction. The welder's mask often fogs up on the outside.
If the joint is ceiling, then the problem is aggravated by the fact that water flows onto the worker. The gloves and jacket are impregnated. Since the welder has an electrode holder in his hands, and he himself stands on the ground (or holds on to the pipe with his second hand), this can provoke small electric shocks (safe, but unpleasant to feel voltage up to 48V ). Cooking is very inconvenient.

How to weld a pipe with water

The pressurized pipeline, as can be seen in the video, is successfully welded by electric welding. For this, certain modes and parameters are selected, which are described below. But there are also small tricks, as well as technologies that help to perform this process correctly. Different approaches are taken depending on the type of work required.

Fistula control

Due to non-compliance with welding conditions or a corrosive environment, a fistula may form in the pipeline. This is a small round hole from which water flows. The pipe may be mechanically damaged due to impact, resulting in a crack.

To successfully weld a problem area with electric welding, you need to stand opposite the problem area. This will make it easier to see all the borders of the hole. To prevent water from running down the electrode (in the case of a vertical or horizontal weld), you need to hold it perpendicular to the surface to be welded. The welding process is carried out from top to bottom. The goal is to narrow the fistula until it is completely closed.

For this you need:

Apply a few drops of metal to the upper side of the edge of the hole.
Hit once or twice with a hammer immediately after the arc stops burning. This allows the deposited metal to penetrate deeper into the structure of the base metal, preventing the appearance of new pores. Additionally, flattened ridges cover a large area of the fistula.
Apply a few more drops of metal, moving down.
Tap again with a hammer.
If the lateral edges of the fistula have thin walls, they must be reinforced in the same way.
After the complete cessation of steam seepage to the outside, it is necessary to build up the pipe wall. This is done vice versa, from the bottom up, at a low current, so as not to burn through the thin metal. "Crescents" are superimposed with an intermittent arc until a complete passage to the upper point of the problem area.
It is desirable to tap the passed seam for forging and sealing.

Solid joint

In the case of connecting two sides of a pipe, one of which is still flowing water, a special approach can be used. This applies especially to pipelines that run close to the floor or the ground.

To successfully complete the work, a “window” is cut out in the upper part of the pipe, which is in a horizontal position. This is a rectangular or oval hole in one side of the joint. This will help in the case when the pressure is turned off and the bulk of the liquid is discharged, but the water continues to leak. A rag is laid in the pipe, absorbing moisture and freeing the bottom for unhindered dry welding.

The seam is superimposed from the inside through the cut out window. It is important to weld the bottom and raise the edges of the seam to the walls. For greater reliability, it is worth performing several passes. Then the rag is removed (this is extremely important to do right away, otherwise all the work will be in vain if you forget it and weld the joint in a hurry), and the water flows along the already welded bottom without interfering with the process. Side seams are applied from the outside. The window closes last. This is done using a pre-prepared "patch" that is appropriate in size. Since the seam consists of several segments, all endings need to be covered, and the last crater must be led out onto a solid section of the pipe and welded with surfacing.

If cutting is needed

With the welding of high pressure pipelines can be performed in case of need for an additional channel for the removal of liquid. For example, another container has been added where water supply is required, or another heating branch has been built in the annex, and a coolant supply is required. If a tie-in is needed, but it is impossible to stop the system, then welding of a spur or a ball valve is used.

This happens according to the following scheme:

A branch pipe with a thread and a ball valve is fitted to the selected section of the pipe.
Without violating the integrity of the pipeline, the superimposed element is welded.
After that, the valve is placed in the open position and a hole is drilled through it in the main pipe.
Next, you need to act quickly. Through the newly formed exit, water rushes out. The drill is quickly removed and the valve is closed.
A winding with a winding is connected to the return thread of the crane and a new branch is closed.
The faucet opens and the liquid supply starts.

This operation can be carried out at any pressure. It is important to weld the branch pipe with a tap at a low current so as not to burn through the main pipe. The diameter of the drill must be large enough to transfer the volume and required pressure so that the new branch is fully functional.

Little tricks

To successfully weld fistulas and cracks with water, you need to know a few secrets that experienced welders use. Since water constantly interferes with the formation of the weld pool, it is important to reduce its impact. This is achieved in several ways.

First, you can drive a bolt into the resulting fistula. For this, the appropriate diameter of the rod is selected. As a result, instead of a hole from which water flows, a clogged hole is formed with a cap convenient for welding. Of course, the liquid is not completely isolated, but its influence is reduced. It is necessary to gradually connect the walls of the base metal with the bolt head. The method is applicable in all spatial positions.

Secondly, the fistula can be repaired by welding a large-diameter nut in its place. The latter is superimposed on the problem area and scalded. The liquid does not interfere with this, because it continues to flow freely through the hole in the nut. After welding is completed, a bolt with tightly wound tow is screwed into the nut. This seals the place. The method has one drawback - the appearance of the repaired area is not very presentable (with a protruding bolt), but this allows you to quickly close the leak and strengthen the thinned place.

The third trick is to increase the filler material. Since the size of the superimposed "pea" of molten metal at one time can cover a certain area of \u200b\u200bthe hole, it is important to apply as much additive as possible to the weld pool. This is controlled by the diameter of the electrode. But you can also use the second electrode, having previously beaten off the coating on it. The first electrode heats up the place, and when liquid metal appears, a second rod is added to it. This increases the amount of surfacing and promotes rapid closure of the water hole.

Modes

For welding work on a pipeline in which liquid is present, it is important to set the amperage higher than normal for this position. This will allow you to hold the arc more stable. The electrode will not stick due to rapid water cooling.

Filler materials are important to ignite well. Of the common models, UONI 13/55 is suitable. They excel in these conditions. It is desirable to warm the place with a burner in order to evaporate the leaking water. This will have a more favorable effect on the penetration of the filler metal.

The type of voltage also plays a role. It all depends on the personal preferences of the welder. Alternating current holds the arc well. They can be boiled under a large layer of water. But the quality of the seam itself is worse. DC voltage is less stable when operating in a humid environment, but the degree of penetration of molten material is higher.

Proper installation of the pipeline allows you to immediately get a quality system. But if a marriage was made or the material was leaky, and repairs are required without draining the liquid, then the tips in the article will help to cope with the problem.