Do-it-yourself wood-fired brick oven. Scheme of a brick oven for a private wood-burning house. How does a wood-burning brick oven work?

07.05.2020

Brick ovens for a house or a summer residence, which use solid fuel as an energy source, are quite a necessary thing in country houses. If you know a few nuances, heater can be easily built by hand. The advantage of this unit is the ability to use it for cooking.

Types of furnaces

Different stoves for one family

Brick ovens for giving or at home are divided into the following types depending on their functions:
heating - designed to heat residential premises.

Can be used in combination with other heaters:

cooking - used for cooking;
cooking and heating - are used both for heating the building and for cooking;
Russians - a special type of wood-burning stove, which is equipped with a stove bench;
fireplace stoves - combine the functions of a closed stove and an open fireplace in one unit;
specific devices - designed for drying clothes, berries, for heating a large volume of water.

Structural elements of brick ovens

Any stoves for home or summer cottages, regardless of their functionality, consist of the following elements:

the combustion chamber, where the process of burning firewood takes place;
the foundation is an obligatory part if the furnace is massive and produces a load of more than 250 kg / m2;
grate - designed to accommodate solid fuel in the furnace and free movement of ash into the ash pan;
ashpit - a small chamber where ash accumulates;
chimney - designed to remove carbon monoxide from the heating system;
blower - provides the system with fresh air.

Brick ovens for cooking are also equipped with a hob. Additionally, an oven, a drying chamber, a water heating tank and other devices can be installed to increase the functionality of the heater.

Brick pyrolysis oven

brick oven long burning Outwardly, it is no different from a conventional stove. It can be used to heat a house or cottage. The long-burning unit has a peculiar design. Inside a conventional combustion chamber there is a special shaft. It is connected to an intermediate hood, where the afterburning of gases from the furnace takes place.

Advantages of long-burning wood burning stoves:

high efficiency - when using the same volume of firewood, you can get much
more thermal energy;
high efficiency - in some devices this figure reaches 85%;
a long-burning stove can be used as the only source of heat for the house;
the gas that exits through the chimney has almost no harmful substances;
it is necessary to lay additional firewood only after 5-6 hours.

When installing a long-burning unit, it must be taken into account that the firewood used for heating must be dry. If their humidity is increased, this will significantly reduce the productivity of the heater. The chimney for a long-burning stove should be as vertical as possible.

It also needs to be cleaned frequently, because due to the low temperature of the exhaust gases, a large amount of soot accumulates on the inner surface of the smoke channel.

swedish stove

The Swedish stove, which is equipped with a hob, is one of the most successful models of brick heating appliances. It is equipped with an oven with a duct convector and a dryer.

Advantages of the Swedish stove:

sufficiently high efficiency - 60%;
the convector and the oven do not have feedback from the firebox, which allows you to choose different layouts for their placement;
the convector can be built from ordinary brick and cement-sand mortar;
this heater allows you to evenly heat the room over the entire height;
the design of the stove allows you to vary its size and configuration.

The main disadvantage of the Swedish stove is the high quality requirements for its installation.

What will be needed to build a stove?

To build a stove for heating a house with your own hands, you need to stock up on the following tools:

trowel;
building level;
plumb;
rule;
a hammer;
roulette;
shovel.

To build a firebox for a heater with your own hands, use refractory fireclay bricks. For the construction of elements that are not exposed to high temperatures, you can use ordinary red brick. For the solution, take sand and clay of medium fat content. You can also buy special blend, which is designed for stoves and fireplaces.

Stove heating of country houses today is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, given the special atmosphere and homely warmth that a simple brick stove can create, even made by your own hands. Often it is installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, trying to get a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will talk about the most popular models brick ovens and share the secrets of the oven craft.

Features and secrets of the popularity of brick ovens

A brick oven is not only a functional heating device, but also a stylish interior element.

Probably, there is no such person who would not like a living hearth with crackling firewood and especially comfortable warmth. But the good old brick oven will be able to please not only with this, but also with the ability to create the most favorable atmosphere for health. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, brick emits water vapor into the air when heated, and absorbs it back when it cools. The stove, as it were, “breathes”, thanks to which it is installed in the room optimal humidity. It is also important that the heat becomes already at a temperature of 18–19 ° C, while when using other types of heating, the comfort level starts from 20–21 ° C. In addition, being made of clay, brick is an environmentally friendly material, which means that during the operation of the heater, you can not worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.

Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, they are all similar to each other in terms of arranging the furnace and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary furnace of this type has:

foundation, which serves as the base of the heater and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
a furnace that simultaneously acts as a firebox and a combustion chamber;
a grate that allows for the lower air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to adjust the intensity of fuel combustion;
ash chamber, which facilitates the cleaning of the furnace;
a chimney that creates the necessary draft and emits exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

Design brick oven channel type

In addition to their main purpose, wood-burning heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging an additional place of rest. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, barbecue or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to a visual and image component.

The advantages of brick ovens include:

rapid heating of the surface;
the possibility of using several types of fuel;
low operating costs;
the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heater is eliminated;
especially soft, comfortable warmth;
the air in the room is not dehydrated;
ample opportunities in terms of interior decoration.

The units under consideration also have disadvantages. The most significant of these is the potential danger of poisoning. carbon monoxide, which appears in case of improper operation. Another - large dimensions and weight. That, perhaps, is all. As you can see, equipment of this type has solid advantages and the almost complete absence of negative aspects, which, however, determines its high popularity.

Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design

All existing models of brick ovens can be divided into several types:

heating devices;
cooking units;
combined ovens;

Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that you can fold yourself. In order not to consider the whole variety of stationary units, let's focus on the most popular options:

Dutch stoves. Thanks to channel design they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in the mode of slow burning or smoldering, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of the "Dutch" rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many fans, partly because of the low cost and ease of construction.
The classic "Dutch" is an extremely compact structure
Swedish wood stoves have a chamber-channel layout, which allows you to increase the efficiency up to 50%. Just like the "Dutch", the "Swedes" take up little space, but require a more careful approach when choosing materials and are a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of this type of heat generators.
The Swedish stove will please its owner with high efficiency and functionality.
have a unique layout, due to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the features of operation. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the oven. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs that increase the cost of an already not the cheapest design.
The Russian stove can completely transform the interior, but it will require a lot of space for installation.
Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that contributes to the most complete combustion of fuel and maximum heat transfer. A feature of the "blacksmiths" is an extremely clean "exhaust" and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on caring for the heater. As for the minuses, they include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the latter disadvantage is compensated by the fact that much less brick is required for the construction of a “cap” than for any other furnace.
Unlike canonical bell-type stoves, modified units can have a hob and oven

Step-by-step instructions for laying the Kuznetsov stove with orders can be found in our next article:.

Having considered everything possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heater that can meet all the requirements for it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first is not difficult, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the closest attention. We will tell you more about how to choose a stove in accordance with the type of building.

House designed for permanent residence. If stove heating will be used as the main one, then there is no better option than "Swede" or "cap". In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily supplemented with other elements - a hob, a water circuit, an oven, drying niches or a bench. If the functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a “Dutch woman” that heats several adjacent rooms is a good option.
Country house "weekend" or cottage. Since these buildings involve irregular residence, it will be enough to install a small heater equipped with a hob. The ideal option are fireplace stoves with an open hearth, since they can be used to heat the room in the shortest possible time. Such an advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when the air temperature in the room drops to sub-zero temperatures.
oven in country house with water or other type of heating. In this case, the heater serves to create a special atmosphere. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or a unit with a firebox, a fireplace and a stove bench.
Bath heater. For this case, the simplest stove-heater is suitable, in which a container is built in to obtain hot water. If the bath is attached to the house, then instead of the tank, you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
Furnaces for open areas. Most often, such heaters are installed on open verandas, in summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For these purposes, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.

The barbecue oven will decorate the site and fill the resting place with functionality

Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heater to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.

Calculation of the main parameters

Before choosing a working project of a heating device, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is to determine the dimensions based on the heat transfer of the furnace. In order not to go into complex calculations, for well-insulated houses they use a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. This method uses an average thermal power taken from one square meter of unit surface (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take a value of 0.5 kW / sq. m, and if necessary, intensive heating, which occurs during severe cooling - up to 0.76 kW / sq. m.

When determining the thermal power of the furnace, only those of its surfaces that participate in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in the "Dutch" sections of the walls located near the floor, below the horizontal sections of the flue, are not excluded from the calculations.

In principle, already these values are enough to select a suitable project from those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.

Drawings and diagrams of brick ovens

Sauna stove
Fireplace stove Classic "Dutch" Bell stove

Firebox

The dimensions of the furnace are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel bookmark. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity, focusing on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2-3 times greater than the obtained value, which will allow the furnace to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the furnace part, it must be taken into account that the maximum bookmark should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the furnace and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the furnace. In your calculations, you can use special tables designed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various quadratures.

Table of calculations of the main elements of a brick oven

Ash pan

The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low-ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove will be fired with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.

Chimney

When calculating the chimney, it should be taken into account that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP

Unlike gas heating equipment, wood-burning stoves do not require much draft, so a rectangle is the best shape for the smoke channel. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the cross section of the blower should not exceed the area of \u200b\u200bits flue, while all values \u200b\u200bare adjusted to the dimensions of a standard brick. Since precise design requires a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. Nevertheless, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical stroke, rectangular section, height from 4 to 12 m), you can use the average values for furnaces with a power of up to 14 kW:

Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
5 - 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
5 - 14 kW - 200x270 mm.

The recommended sizes are the minimum. And yet, there is no need to excessively increase the cross-section of the smoke channel, since cold air will fall into the furnace through a too wide chimney. Backflow, or “whistling” in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only to degrade performance, but also to more serious problems.

To calculate the amount of material needed, it is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.

Calculation of the number of bricks

You should not worry if the chimney calculated “offhand” occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be built up with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or several more rows of bricks can be laid. Often, such events are carried out with the changed aerodynamics of the area. For example, after growing trees or erecting taller buildings in the neighborhood.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for construction includes several stages:

selection of tools and necessary materials;
determination of the optimal place for mounting the heater;
arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
production of oven bricks (if necessary) and preparation of masonry mortar.

Necessary materials and tools

Stovemaker's tools

For laying a brick oven you will need:

Mason's hammer (with striker and pick).
Panicle for mopping laid rows.
Corner, plumb and level to control the geometric parameters of the masonry.
Pliers.
Rubber hammer (mallet).
Trowel (trowel).
Rule and tamper for arranging the foundation.
Lead scribbler.
Spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
Stitching.
Buckets and other containers for bulk substances and liquids.
Sieve.
Bulgarian (angle grinder) with a circle on the stone.

Despite the fact that brick ovens differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains almost unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:

Brick - red, silicate, refractory and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
Building mixture for laying furnaces. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
A set of furnace castings - blower, furnace and cleaning doors, valves, stove, oven, etc.
Grate.
Wire for fixing cast iron.
Asbestos or basalt cord.
Steel strips and corners for arranging ceilings and niches.
Heat-resistant plates for protective thermal insulation.

Chamotte brick SHB No. 22

Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight, which requires a major foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for the construction of the foundation:

Sand.
Rubble.
Reinforcement mesh.
Boards and nails for the construction of formwork.
Cement.
Waterproofing.

In addition, if the project provides for external wall decoration, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for these works.

Features of choosing a place for installing a heater

Most often, a brick oven is installed near one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available area in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used for heating several rooms, then it is located in the center of the house, orienting the firebox and hob to the kitchen, and the other faces to the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows the benefits right choice places.

The right choice of location is able to solve the problem of heating all the premises of a country house

When installing a heater, one should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum allowable distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal gaps and distances, which are determined by the current SNiP:

from brick chimney there must be at least 130 mm of free space to the wooden elements of the floor or roof. If uninsulated ceramic or steel pipe, then the gap is increased to 250 mm;
between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the furnace leave a gap of at least 100 mm;
the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation will be used. With a protective screen, the minimum clearance is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
a gap of at least 0.35 m must be left from the ceiling to the ceiling of the furnace. When installing compact units with low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.

Foundation construction

It is best if the base of the brick oven is formed simultaneously with the common house foundation. At the same time, both structures are performed separately, otherwise the subsidence of the walls of the building will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, and even damage to the heater. If the stove will be built in a finished house, then the first thing they pay attention to is the distance of the chimney from the elements of the roof covering, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they start marking and building the foundation.

Given the weight of the stove, the foundation must be solid.

If wooden floors are equipped in the house, then they are cut out at the place where the furnace is installed, departing from the outer contour of 10–15 cm. After that, they dig a foundation pit, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For the middle lane, it is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After that, its bottom is covered with a 15-cm layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick is poured, which is also carefully rammed. After that, wooden pegs are driven into the corners of the structure, to which the crate boards are attached. To prevent the leakage of cement milk through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered with a plastic film. At a distance of 5-10 cm from the floor, a reinforcing mesh is installed, for which they use both metal rods hammered into the bottom of the pit and brick fragments.

The foundation for a brick oven is made of reinforced concrete

Mixing cement M-400, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the foundation surface is leveled using the rule. Note that the upper level of the base of the furnace should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours have passed, necessary for the preliminary setting of the solution, the structure is covered with a film and left for several weeks until completely dry.

Before laying the brick, the foundation must be waterproofed with a roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Solution preparation

Now, when you can find ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves in the distribution network, there are practically no problems with preparing a working solution. All that is required for this is to mix the components with water using a wooden spatula or a construction mixer. Nevertheless, you can make a masonry mortar on your own - this will additionally save. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the building.

You can prepare a building mixture with your own hands from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the last component. To choose the optimal composition, conduct a small experiment, mixing bulk materials in different proportions. After that, balls with a diameter of 5-6 cm are rolled out of the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best composition the one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third is considered.

There are several ways to check the quality of clay

Another way to determine the correct ratio of components is to lower the spatula into the prepared mixture. Adhesion of the solution less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is required to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates the fat content of the mixture, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.

Clay must be soaked in water for a day before use. If it is required to increase its fat content, then the grinding method is used, which consists in settling the clay solution and removing its middle part.

How to properly fold a brick oven. Instructions for the progress of work

Deciding on the type of heater, making preliminary calculations and preparing everything for the start of construction is only half the battle. In order to properly fold the oven, it is necessary to find the layout of the bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared some of the most popular options that can be used as working projects. If for some reason they do not suit you, then you can search turnkey solutions on the Web or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.

Schemes for ordering furnaces in the photo

Orders of the Swedish oven Orders of the "Dutch" Orders of the Russian oven
Orders of the heating and cooking furnace
Orders of the stove for a bath
Orders of the Kuznetsov bell-type furnace

Today we propose to fold a compact, but very productive and functional brick oven. Despite the apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove-makers and give the necessary recommendations during the construction process.

Stove orders with a hob and niches for drying

On the presented ordering scheme, you can see a heating unit equipped with a convenient hob and a drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to a classic Swedish stove. We recommend first laying out the structure dry, without the use of mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare the necessary elements of the structure. Further work is done in this order:

To the floor level, the bricks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar solid. At this stage, you should be especially attentive to geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry in terms of level and plumb. From the careful execution of the work depends on how smooth and stable the oven will be.
The first row of the furnace body begins to form a blowing chamber.
Installing a blower door
Before starting laying the second row, install the blower door. To do this, steel wire is threaded into specially cast ears on its body, which is laid in masonry joints. To prevent displacement and overturning of the door, it is temporarily supported by bricks.
In the fourth row, two channels are brought out to clean the furnace from soot. Each of them has a separate door.
The grate is not attached in any other way than by very precise laying.
In the fifth row, a grate is installed. Correctly laying the cast iron will help the recesses made in the bricks of the bottom row. Hereinafter, the combustion chamber is laid out exclusively with refractory bricks.
In the furnace, the grate is laid on a refractory brick
Before laying the sixth row, a furnace door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a stack of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, the part is supported from the outside with a metal corner or a wooden lath.
Furnace door installation
Starting from the seventh row, they begin to equip the gas ducts of the furnace. The vertical walls of the firebox are laid out with fireclay bricks installed on the edge.
To ensure the durability of the structure, the outer masonry is separated from the combustion chamber with a layer of basalt cardboard.

Laying vertical channels
Before starting the laying of the ninth row, a quarter is selected in the bricks with which the furnace door will overlap. Thanks to this, the design will look even and aesthetically pleasing. Here, the cast-iron part is finally fixed, laying the wire in the seam of the ninth row.
For an exact fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place
In the 11th row, a hob is placed on the upper opening of the fuel chamber. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front part of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.
The furnace is separated from external walls basalt cardboard or other refractory material
From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron stove.
Before overlapping the cooking niche, steel strips are laid on its side walls, which will serve as a support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
The 18th and 19th rows are laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are built up.
In the 20th row, they equip a horizontal channel and a door for cleaning soot and soot, and they also begin to form a drying chamber.
The masonry of the 22nd row covers the door.
On the 23rd row, the horizontal gas duct is covered. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open.
Before laying the 24th row above drying chamber lay steel strips.
From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the oven niche is blocked.
In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical gas ducts. To do this, first mount their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.
Installation of furnace valves
From the 31st to the 35th row lay out the transition section of the chimney.
From the 36th to the 38th row, fluff is constructed.

In the place where the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is isolated from the ceiling non-combustible materials. For this, both mineral heaters and expanded clay are used. It is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.

Here's a beauty you can fold with your own hands

Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register

Earlier, we considered how oven doors are mounted and fixed. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.

Mounting Features oven

If the design of the furnace provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes the largest possible surface area. Most often, these conditions correspond to the section of the transition from the furnace to the heat exchanger. Preliminarily, metal corners are laid on the side walls of the horizontal flue, and the places of contact between the cabinet and the outer wall of the furnace are sealed with basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.

The hot water boiler or liquid heat exchanger is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place can be located at the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the gas flue or under the hood of non-revolving units. If you plan to use the hob and water heater at the same time, then it upper part are made in the form of transversely arranged metal pipes, which are welded into side tanks made of furnace steel. A compensation gap of 5-15 mm is left between the water-heating boiler and the furnace walls. Of course, it is necessary to foresee how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For channel and chamber furnaces, this can be done through the opening of the firebox, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.

Features of operation and cleaning of the furnace

It is impossible to immediately test the furnace at maximum modes; it is necessary to wait for its walls to dry. That is why it is recommended to build a heater in the warm season. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one to two weeks. If it becomes necessary to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.

After the specified period, the oven is heated for 5-7 days 2-3 times a day, each time using a small amount of firewood. The complete drying of the walls is indicated by the absence of condensate on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after that, the stove is not heated "to the fullest." Operation at maximum power is checked only after several days of regular use.

If the unit is heated exclusively with firewood, then it is not necessary to clean it from ash every time. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is freed from ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for cleaning the internal channels and chimney from soot, this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For this purpose, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After that, the soot is raked out of the gas ducts with a metal scoop and a poker.

Choosing the right fuel will help reduce soot formation. The best firewood is hardwood - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen practically do not leave soot. By the way, experienced stove-makers recommend that every tenth firebox be carried out with aspen logs, arguing that this helps to remove soot from the channels and chimney.

It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning it using flammable liquids, smoke powder (yes, you can find such “useful” tips), naphthalene, etc. A good effect from this can hardly be achieved, but nearby buildings and your own health can cause significant damage.

It often causes difficulties to kindle the stove after a long cooling, for example, in a cottage or in a country house. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the furnace channels, forming hard-to-remove gas plugs. A proven method will help resume cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, lay it closer to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the heater's performance.

You will also need material with instructions for cleaning and minor repairs of brick ovens:.

Video: Compact brick oven of the original design

A brick oven will be able to create a particularly warm atmosphere in the room, it will become a highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Folding the unit is within the power of not only experienced craftsmen, but also green beginners. Of course, one must be scrupulous and as attentive as possible. And then the heater will repay not only cozy warmth and comfort, but also safe operation for many years of operation.

Thanks to my versatile hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorite ones are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

In winter, the house needs heating. Although current technology offers different variants to create comfort and coziness, maintain a stable temperature, classical type is in considerable demand not only for country houses, but also for permanent housing. A brick oven for summer cottages and dwellings can not only emphasize the originality of style, but also be a functional element of decor.

Such a stove has several sides for evaluation, and it can heat, and it looks beautiful

Options for the home

cooking systems;
heating structures.

You can also find multifunctional options that combine a classic fireplace, a water circuit and additional fans to increase traction and better warm rooms. The cooking type is used if you need to make a brick oven for giving on summer time. Masters combine it with a tank for heating water. It will not work to talk about full heating of the house, but you can cook dinner on such a stove.

In this video you will learn how cooking ovens work:

As standard, it is combined with gas or electric heating. The design consists of several elements. These include:

hob (occupies most of the structure);
water heating tank;
small oven.

The traction power depends on the depth of the device and the parameters of the case. The material from which the lining is made depends on the heat transfer and the ability to heat the room. A standard sized oven can maintain a temperature of small room often the kitchen. It is there that a functional design for cooking is installed.

The heating and cooking type is multifunctional due to the combination of the hob, oven, fireplace. In most cases, a shelf for drying things and other elements that contribute to maximum use stoves. Dimensions and functionality depend on the parameters of the room in which the structure will be installed.

Such a design consists of at least 3 elements

The heating furnace is used for space heating. It consists of a large chamber, an ash pan, which is located under it, a chimney. The design resembles a stove with a fireplace and performs not only a decorative function, but also a practical heating of the room.

Types by type of construction

Depending on what elements are included in the process of creating a stove, experts distinguish several types. Each of them has its own functionality and capabilities. Brick stove may be:

Russian;
Dutch;
Swedish.

The first option is considered a classic, because it combines practicality and functionality in terms of heating the room, the possibility of cooking, there is a shelf for lying and a place for drying things. If the house is used by tenants all year round, then the version of the Russian stove will be ideal in terms of application. As for the appearance, thanks to the original ceramic combinations, you can make a real masterpiece out of an ordinary old stove.

For summer cottage this type is not suitable, because due to the large dimensions, the stove will need a lot of firewood, respectively, enough heat will be released to heat the room. For cooking, a small cooking option is enough.

In addition, if the stove is put into operation, then it must be actively used, otherwise it can absorb moisture from the air, which will worsen the combustion process and heat generation. In appearance, this is a huge structure, to find a place for it on small dacha it will be hard.

dutch oven It is considered a good option for heating several rooms at once. It does not take up much space, but at the same time it generates enough heat for a comfortable stay in the house in the winter. Fuel consumption is low here, and the level Efficiency is high. The disadvantages of the furnace include the requirements for the type of fuel and the quality of the material from which the lining for the structure will be made.

The stove must be heated for a long time, if it is cold outside, so that it warms up well, it begins to give off heat to other rooms. It also requires regular use, otherwise the soot in the smoke channel begins to mold inside the structure.

The Dutch oven is a practical option, as it covers several rooms at once

swedish oven considered the most popular and popular, it was developed for a cold harsh climate, so the main goal - fast heating of the room - is achieved quickly. The external parameters are compact, but this does not affect the high heat output and the ability to heat several rooms at once.

It heats up quickly due to the design features. The back side with a fireplace almost always opens into the living room or bedroom, and you can cook food on the hob. For giving, as well as for everyday use, this option is considered ideal. You can heat in the stove with any materials, this will not affect the level of efficiency.

"Swede" warms up very quickly

Functionality and configuration

The implementation of a brick oven for a summer residence implies the presence of certain functions. The main ones include cooking, space heating, heating of places to lie, the opportunity to admire the open flame on long winter evenings.

Before choosing the type of stove, you need to decide not only functionality, but also with configuration and arrangement options. The shape of brick stoves for summer cottages can be different. Not only the appearance depends on this, but also the functionality. Masters distinguish:

rectangular heating structures;
T-shaped options;
round ovens;
Russians;
babies.

The ability to heat a large area depends on the size. Small options are used more often for decoration and creating comfort in the room than for some functionality. For large structures, it is necessary to prepare firewood in advance, because in order for the temperature in the room to be constant, it is often necessary to heat it.

If the stove will be used exclusively for heating, then experts advise paying attention to fireplace structures, this will help save materials and money for construction and get the same result.

According to the principle of creation, channel options with forced movement of gases and furnaces with free movement are distinguished. The first option includes the Dutch and Swedish type. The fuel burns in the furnace, after which the smoke breaks through a special channel, and the heat is distributed over the surface of the display. Due to the powerful draft, combustion products are removed by the smoke channel.

The task of the design is to maximize the heating of the walls of the stove, and from here the heat will be distributed throughout the room for a long time. Furnaces with free movement of gases in terms of heat release behave differently.

Here, hot air gradually rises, displacing cold air down, where it is heated. Thanks to the free transition from one chamber to another, the heating process is fast, the temperature after that remains stable much longer than from the classic version.

As a standard, two or three chambers can be distinguished in stoves, which are interconnected by a dry seam, which is located below. The principle of operation of the bell-type furnace is simple, due to this the design is popular not only in dacha arrangement, but also in houses designed for living all year round.

Advantages and disadvantages

In channel devices with forced movement of gases, a number of flaws stand out. It creates difficulties during installation and operation of the structure:

The heating rate of the room depends on the traction force. If it is humid or bad weather outside, then this reduces traction, firewood starts to burn more slowly. To enhance the masters are advised to make a high chimney to overcome resistance. If the house is with a low ceiling, then this type of stove will not work.
Hot air is concentrated at the top of the oven, which can make the floor quite cold.
The efficiency is low, even with a high chimney and additional fans to disperse heat, the figure will not exceed 55-60%. Standard thrust gives even less efficiency - approximately 40%.
A large structure slows down the heating process, which means that the stove needs to be heated longer so that the heat is evenly distributed over the surface and begins to be distributed in the room.

There are no significant drawbacks in stoves with free movement of gases, and due to the presence of several chambers, the air flow increases, the heating process is accelerated several times. You can use different design options in everyday life, but you must definitely take into account the features of their work and efficiency.

Do-it-yourself masonry features

In order for the stove to serve for a long time, it is necessary to create a powerful and reliable foundation for it. It is impossible to connect the foundation for the stove with the foundation for the house, since the latter shrinks over time, which can negatively affect the stove itself. To create the foundation, cement or concrete mortar can be used. You can create a base from special blocks, this also guarantees quality and endurance.

For the construction, several types of bricks can be used: ordinary ceramics and fireclay (refractory), from which the base of the stove is laid out. A solution of oven clay is used, it withstands high temperatures well, practically does not crack during operation.

When inserting a door for a firebox or an ash pan, it is imperative to tie it with burnt steel wire to increase strength. If the firebox is cast iron or another chamber made of this material, then an asbestos cord must be additionally used, which compensates for different temperature conditions elements.

For facing the finished structure, both ceramic elements and clinker bricks, decorative tiles can be used. Choice finishing material depends on the type of stove and design style. For process may need the following components:

ceramic full-bodied and fireclay bricks, masonry mortar;
roofing material, asbestos cord, formwork boards;
hob, ash pan, door elements.

In addition, special tools may be needed: a level, a construction marker, a shovel for mixing the solution, a protractor, a tape and a plumb line. If follow step by step instructions and fulfill all the requirements in the process of work, then the created stove will be not only functional, but also of high quality.

You can make a brick stove for a wood-fired cottage on your own, but you need to remember a few tricks. Thanks to this, the creation process will be fast and productive:

The thickness of the seam should not exceed 5 mm, the accuracy and evenness of the masonry depends on this.
Each layer must be checked not only building level, but also with a special plumb line to compare both the thickness and the width of the row. Only after measuring the created layer, you can proceed to work on the next one.
To create good traction, it is necessary to make a short way for the gas to escape, the so-called summer move.
In each row, the brick should overlap the joints of the previous one, it is necessary to start the layer from the corner.

In the process, it is necessary to monitor the consistency of the solution: if you place bricks on the surface for a long time, then the cement may dry out, then the procedure will become more complicated. To prevent this from happening, the masters advise creating a little mixture and finishing it already in the process of work. An interesting do-it-yourself stove can decorate any interior design, turn a house into a real work of art.

The stove personifies the hearth, warming all loved ones. Therefore, for the home, they choose such a device with a firebox that would warm up the room well and not fail during operation. The wood-burning stove is characterized by special strength and reliability. If desired, you can build it yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages of a wood-burning stove

If firewood is taken as fuel, then the stove in the house, garage or country house must meet a number of requirements. Both the firebox and chimney devices are constructed so that during operation they are not destroyed.

The laying of brick wood-burning stoves is carried out according to a special scheme that ensures structural strength and maximum surface heat transfer

Thanks to the special manufacturing technology, a wood-burning stove has many advantages:

Efficiency. The stove, in the furnace of which firewood is laid, easily heats the air into a room with an area of at least 4 m².
A pleasant aroma emanating from the wood in flames.
The possibility of using not only firewood, but also coal.
Long service life with timely repairs.
Small cost for the purchase of fuel.

However, it is worth paying attention to some disadvantages of a wood-burning stove:

The need to control the process of fuel combustion every 15 minutes, adding new batches in time.
The requirement to remove ash from the furnace, the accumulation of which impairs draft.

Types of wood stoves

Furnaces in which wood is burned are classified into the following types:

A cast-iron wood-burning stove is a room heating device used as an additional heat source. Smoke and gases are removed from it through a corrugated chimney or sleeve. The cast iron stove heats the air in the house very quickly and is mounted in any area of the house. Equipped with a blower, it allows room temperature stay comfortable for long hours.
A cast iron stove heats up very quickly, but it cannot hold heat for as long as a brick.
A metal wood stove is a structure capable of heating the air in a room in an amazingly short time, since it is made of steel that retains heat. But the effect of the metal furnace disappears quickly, because its walls are made of thin material. Therefore, in order to avoid an instant drop in temperature in the house, the stove should be constructed from stainless steel sheets, creating thick seams that will protect the structure from cracking.
The metal oven heats up quickly, but cools down just as quickly.
A brick wood-burning stove is the most reliable device for heating a room, requiring high construction costs. The brick oven is equipped with a serpentine-shaped chimney, so that the received heat does not leave the house for a long time. True, this device is to be created comfortable temperature it takes a lot of time, which distinguishes it from a metal furnace. But the room heated brick building, does not cool down for a long time, and the oven itself can be used for cooking.
A brick oven is the most difficult to build, but it keeps heat best of all

AT wooden house it is more reasonable to install a compact oven made of heating and cooking type bricks. And the heat capacity of the device should be medium.

The design and principle of operation of a brick wood-burning stove

Each stove in which firewood is laid has the following structural elements:

Burning wood in a furnace leads to the formation of gases heated to a high temperature. These substances pass through the pipe, making the walls of the furnace hot. As a result, heat is transferred to the air in the room. How quickly the air temperature rises in the house depends on the thickness of the furnace wall material. Usually, it takes about 5 hours to heat the rooms of a private house.

To keep the fire in the furnace, it is necessary to regulate the traction force. To do this, open the blower door less or more and the smoke damper located in the chimney. At the same time, it is important to prevent excess or lack of oxygen in the chamber for laying firewood. Excess air lowers the temperature in the furnace, and insufficient air causes the formation of products of incomplete combustion. Because of this, the heat transfer of the furnace deteriorates significantly, and accelerated soot formation occurs in the chimney.

Video: all about the brick oven

Making a brick wood-burning stove with your own hands

Calculation of the parameters of a wood stove

To determine what size furnace you need to build, you should take into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. The square of the building is obtained by multiplying the outer perimeter by 21 (the amount of heat required to heat 1 m³ of area to 18 degrees).

You can find out what a wood-burning stove should be according to a table that reflects the dimensions of the surface of the equipment, depending on its location and room parameters. The data presented should be used if the height of the house is 3 meters, and the temperature outside the window is not lower than 25 degrees below zero.

Table: recommended oven surface depending on its location

Let's say the stove is going to be built between the kitchen and the hallway. When calculating the area of \u200b\u200bthe equipment, it is necessary to proceed as follows:

Add the volume of the kitchen with the volume of the hallway (let, for example, it will be 54.39 m³ + 18.87 m³ = 73.26 m³).
Find out the value of the return of thermal energy - 73.26 x 21 \u003d 1,538 kcal / h.
Determine the heating area of the furnace, given that a square meter of the furnace gives off 300 kcal / h - 1,538 kcal / h: 300 \u003d 5.1 m².
Divide the furnace heating area by its active height (heated height) and get the active surface perimeter - 5.1: 2.2 = 2.3 m.
Determine the sum of the two sides of the furnace - 2.3: 2 = 1.15 m.
Ask for some width and find the length (for example, if the width of the oven is 510 mm, the length will be 640 mm).

List of materials and tools

Starting the construction of a wood-burning brick oven, it is necessary to prepare the following building materials:

fireclay bricks of the Sh8 brand (for the furnace), since they easily tolerate high temperatures, retain heat and do not collapse for a long time;
Fireclay bricks tolerate temperatures over 1,000 degrees, so it is used to lay out the furnace part of the furnace
red refractory bricks, which are immune to intense heat, but are fragile and therefore require extreme care when laying;
Red refractory brick has a high heat transfer, therefore, the main parts of the furnace are built from it, giving off heat to the room and removing combustion products
mastic used as an adhesive for bricklaying;
furnace door;
a sash for a blower;
cast iron hob;
cast-iron grates mounted between the firewood combustion chamber and the blower;
The cast-iron grate of the grate is installed between the firebox and the blower
chimney valve.

The construction of a brick oven is carried out using the following tools:

electric saw with a metal disc;
grindstone, eliminating the irregularities of bricks;
hammer;
spatulas with plates of various widths and lengths;
level and plumb for construction control;
drill, functioning from the mains.

Finding a place to install the furnace

A brick structure for heating a house is supposed to be installed so that it does not cause a fire in the house. For furnace equipment, it is necessary to find a place that would allow the maximum use of its power.

The installation of a brick oven should be done in one of the following areas:

the center of the room, where the air heating equipment will divide the room into sectors;
a niche in the wall located between two or three rooms;
a place against the wall (further by about 30 cm), if you want to raise the air temperature in only one room.

Having decided on the site for the furnace, markup is performed. To draw lines that define the contours of the manufactured furnace equipment, start from the ceiling. At the same time, they use a plumb line, since it is very important to make sure that the chimney passes through the attic floors at a distance of 15 cm from the rafter legs.

When looking for a suitable site for the furnace, it must be borne in mind that a lot of space is needed to build the foundation. Therefore, the area where the stove will be located in the future needs to be increased by 10 or 15 cm on each side.

When looking for a place to install the stove, it is necessary to find a reasonable compromise between the distances from the walls and rafters and the availability of free space for a strong foundation.

Before laying the bricks, a stand is placed on the floor, which will protect the area under the furnace from the pressure of a heavy structure and overheating. The device must be multi-layered, that is, it must consist of plywood coated with a composition that protects the material from decay, dense basalt cardboard, aceite 8 mm thick and galvanized.

A sheet is also nailed to the wall, which will be located next to the stove, to protect it from strong heat. It is customary to create this heat shield from pieces of basalt cardboard and aceite coated with molten zinc.

Options and schemes for the manufacture of wood-burning stoves

According to which scheme the oven should be built from bricks, depends on the type of equipment. For example, a Swedish oven is laid out as follows:

1 row - a piece of roofing material is placed on the bottom of the future furnace, which is sprinkled with sand, forming a layer of 1 cm. At the same time, the horizontalness of the base is kept under control, otherwise the furnace will turn out to be a curve. Having created a platform, lay out the first row of bricks, thereby obtaining the corners of the structure.
The first row of masonry sets the corners of the future structure
2nd row - with the help of wire and cement composition, the blower door is mounted.
3rd row - when placing a line of bricks, make sure that the blocks of the next row overlap the joints of the bricks laid out earlier. A metal strip 4 cm wide, 40 cm long and 4 mm thick is placed on the right.
4th row - several metal corners are mounted with vertical elements facing down and inserted into the brick joints. Then a cast-iron grate is put in place.
The grate is laid on metal corners immured in masonry
5 row - the corners of the brick blocks are leveled, eliminating roughness. We are talking about those bricks that are adjacent to the grate. It is supposed to cut off 7–8 cm.
6th row - put cast iron doors for the combustion chamber. The element is fixed in place using steel wire and cement mortar. So that the brick structure does not become brittle due to the strong heating of the cast iron, the area around the door is wrapped with asbestos cord.
The firebox door is fastened with steel wire
Rows 7, 8 and 9 are formed by lining the door of the fuel combustion chamber. At the same time, horizontal seams are made thin (no more than 5 mm). This will lay out the ninth row at the level of the upper edge of the frame from the furnace door.
10th row - the joints of previously built blocks are covered with a new line of bricks.
11 row - two steel plates 4.5 cm wide, more than 4 cm long and about 4 mm thick are placed on the laid out line of bricks.
12 row - on left side structures place strips of steel, and whole bricks are placed on it. After that, they work on the right side of the structure, put two bricks, reduced by ¼. When laying out whole bricks, it will not be possible to make an opening corresponding in size to a hob with one burner. An asbestos cord soaked in water is laid along the edge of the created window. cement mortar. The hob is fixed using steel wire and a level that allows you to evaluate the horizontalness of the structure.
On the twelfth row of masonry, a hob or heating panel without burners is mounted
13 row - a line of bricks is laid out behind the hob, leaving a space of 1 cm for the passage of heat. Later, this gap is covered with sand.
14-17 rows are created as required by the ordering scheme. The height of the wall to the left of the hob is adjusted, focusing on the size of the entire masonry. To mount the floors above the hob, the 17th line of bricks is supplemented with three corners 60 cm long and three strips of dense steel 30 cm long.
18 row - they perform the installation of the ceiling of the cooking chamber, taking care of the complete filling of the joints with mortar.
The first row of overlap above the hob is laid on metal corners and plates
19 row - on right side brickwork leave a void the size of half a brick. This space will later serve as an opening for cleaning the oven.
20 row - laying out the next line, a brick is laid in the opening left earlier, which can be easily pulled out. A steel strip is mounted on the laid bricks, the length and width of which is 1.4 cm. The plate will ensure the zigzag movement of gases through the chimney, which means it will contribute to uniform heating of all zones of the furnace.
21st row - create partitions that will separate the lowering and lifting channels for removing combustion products from each other.
22nd row - during the laying out of the next line of bricks, another steel plate is installed.
23 row - act according to the ordering scheme.
24th row - having laid out a new line of bricks, they lay the last steel strip, the task of which is to make the smoke move zigzag through the pipe.
25 row - a piece of sheet steel with an even hole at the chimney passage is attached to the laid bricks with steel strips.
26 row - continue to create brickwork, focusing on the ordering scheme, and install a valve for the chimney.
Gate valve allows you to adjust the draft of the chimney and block the smoke channel after the complete extinction of the coals
27 row - lay out a continuous line of bricks with a gap for holding the pipe.
28 row - the walls of the furnace are supplemented with the last line of bricks, after which they check how well all the seams are sealed.
29 row - lay out the design of the pipe going through the roof.

Each row of a brick oven has a clear laying pattern.

If you want to build a small stove that will consume little firewood, despite the high heat transfer, then you should give preference to the following option for assembling a brick structure:

1st row or base for the oven. A blower door with a gap and an asbestos-cement cord is also installed here.
Bricks are placed close to each other
2-3 rows. The walls of the ash chamber and one cleaning are laid out, which is closed with a dry half of the brick.
4th row. It partially covers the ash chamber and begins to form smoke channels.
5th row. It involves the installation of a grate. The holes are located along the fuel chamber. The laying of the walls of the channels continues.
6–8 row. Form a furnace. Here, at the same time, a firebox door with a gap (3–5 mm) is installed, into which an asbestos cord is laid.
9 row. Forms the walls of the furnace and channels according to the orders.
Warm air ducts run next to the furnace
10 row. Continues the construction of the walls of the furnace and channels according to the order.
11th row. A single-burner stove is installed, a niche frame is laid, and the laying of the furnace wall and channels continues.
12-18 row. A hob niche and channels are laid out. On the thirteenth row, a valve for kindling is installed.
19th row. The second half of the stove with a valve is installed on the metal frame of the cooking niche and on the bricks and the nineteenth row is laid out.
In the first row after overlapping hob it is necessary to make triangular cuts in bricks
20th row. It involves the installation of an oven and further laying of channels according to the orders.
21–22 row. Continue laying around the oven and laying channels.
23rd row. Supports are installed to cover the oven chamber.
24–26 row. The laying of channels is done according to the orders.
In the twenty-sixth row, a gate valve is installed
27–28 row. The channels overlap, leaving one pipe channel 140x140 mm according to the order.
Next is laying the chimney pipe.

Video: do-it-yourself stove laying for the home

Wood stove operation

To keep the oven safe, you need to take care of the following:

nail a sheet of steel 30 cm long and 2 mm thick to the floor from the side of the combustion chamber, which would extend 15 cm beyond the brick structure;
use a chimney (if it is not brick) made of acid-resistant material that can dissipate smoke well.

The firebox of the stove will not create problems if, during its operation, the rule is followed - to lay in the chamber only those firewood that is stored in a covered woodpile that protects the fuel from dampness.

Operating a wood-burning stove is a real craft. In order for it to bring pleasure and benefit, you should listen to some tips:

firewood is laid in the firebox more tightly, with gaps that were left in the woodpile;
it is more reasonable to put thick firewood on top, and thin firewood on the bottom;
under the vault of the firebox, it is supposed to leave a gap of 1/5 of its height;
after laying the first batch of firewood, the firebox door must not be opened for an hour.

Video: how to properly heat the stove

At the end of the work, it will become clear that the construction of a wood-burning stove is not burdensome as it seems at first. Although it takes a lot of effort and hours to complete this task, the result will not make you regret what you have done.

The history of the wood stove goes back centuries, if not millennia. AT different countries the best models have received well-deserved distribution.

Such designs are used today, both in the classical form and with some additions.

Dutch

This design was created by Russian craftsmen. The design is not complicated and does not require much space. But this does not prevent her from giving off the accumulated heat well.

Russian oven

Large-sized and multifunctional oven. But its size justifies the presence - free space where you can relax. Under the bed there is a firebox, you can cook food in it. There is a stove next to the firebox, and a blower a little lower, which supports the fire. There is also a niche for freshly prepared food.

A Russian stove can easily warm up a room whose size exceeds 40 square meters. But for a full-fledged robot, a lot of raw materials will be required.

Swede

Relate to compact options. Length and width - 1 meter. The main function is to heat the room, but you can also cook food on it. The unusualness of such a stove is that a stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest will be in another part of the house.

This design is flammable. But the risk of fire is reduced by dampers.

Fireplaces and combined fireplace stoves

Scheme of the device of the furnace

If we talk about stoves-fireplaces, then a certain brick building immediately appears, which serves as an decoration for the apartment. However decorative fireplace and a fireplace stove are not the same thing. Considering the devices associated with the word "fireplace", the following varieties can be distinguished: a decorative (artificial) fireplace, a working fireplace and a fireplace stove. An artificial hearth is a design element, not an equipment for heating a dwelling. A real fireplace consists of a portal, a firebox and a chimney. Putting it together won't be too hard. Depending on the installation method, there are 3 main types:

corner fireplace. It is installed in the corner of the room. This arrangement allows you to heat several rooms at once.
closed fireplace. It takes up very little space, as it is located in the wall of the house. Installation of the furnace is carried out during the construction of the building.
open fireplace. Usually it is arranged in the middle of the room in a large area. In this case, the chimney is suspended using special chain fasteners.

Brick stoves-fireplaces can have various shapes according to the chosen style. The classic version is a U-shaped design with decorative elements. D-shaped building is typical for country style. The hearth of a rectangular or semicircular shape reflects the Art Nouveau style.

A fireplace stove is a kind of hybrid of a household stove and a fireplace. The device quickly heats up the room and is suitable for cooking any dishes, heating water and food, drying mushrooms and fruits. Masters of furnace art offer a number of different designs that are conveniently placed in a house of any layout (Fig. 6). In inclement weather, a brick stove creates a special comfort in the house.

Finnish stove

Finnish brick kilns got their name because of the wide application in Scandinavian countries. Their popularity in Russia is explained by the similarity of the climate and requirements for heating products. They belong to the bell type, the heating of the room is carried out due to the transfer of heat from the massive body of the stove.

The advantages of this type can be called:

The ease of the device of this design;
Light weight;
The cost of such a model is quite budgetary;
It has good heat dissipation, traction and has a high efficiency;
Due to the presence of a large firebox, it heats up quickly;
Properly folded design is very aesthetic.

Brick oven "finca"

Drawing of a Finnish stove

Finnish stove has a very large furnace compartment

Usually such products are installed in the center of the room.

Classification of brick ovens

From the very name of heating stoves, it becomes clear that these stoves are designed for heating premises, both residential and non-residential (garage, hangar, greenhouse, etc.).

– How are brick ovens arranged?
– What types of brick ovens are there?
– What are once-through or bell-type furnaces? What is the difference?

In this article, we'll look at options. heating stoves made of bricks. The variety of such furnaces is great and they differ primarily in the internal structure of the smoke channels.

Furnace with horizontal channels

In such a system, a cleaning door must be placed on each horizontal channel to remove ash and soot that settles on the horizontal surface of the channels. In such a furnace, hot gases do not linger in the furnace itself, but give off heat only in the direction of the chimney.

Furnace with horizontal channels and heat pockets

In this design of the furnace, there are thermal pockets in the channels, in which heat is accumulated. The average cross section of the channel along the entire length became larger, which led to a decrease in the velocity of gases. At a lower speed of movement of gases, heat transfer from hot gases to the body of the furnace itself increases. This design of the furnace is more heat-consuming, respectively, with a higher efficiency.

Vertical channel oven

Such a system of channels creates more resistance for the movement of gases, which is both a plus and a minus of this system. Minus - you need a higher chimney to pull gases through the furnace channels. Plus - such a furnace is less blown out due to the greater resistance in the channels. Accordingly, this system is more heat-intensive than the first option. The second drawback is the overheating of the first channel, and as a result, the occurrence of serious internal stresses. (read-cracking of the masonry of the furnace body).

Counter current furnace

This system differs from the system with vertical channels (option 2) in that the downcomer channel in it is wider. This leads to the fact that the speed of movement of gases in it decreases and the heat exchange between hot gases and the walls of the furnace itself increases. This option is more preferable than option 2.

Bell-type furnace

This system is based on the principle of free movement of gases. It does not have thermal channels through which gases move, but there is a cap. Hot gases, having risen to the top, cool down the bell (giving off their heat to the furnace), go down and exit into the chimney. After all the wood in the stove burns out, hot gases remain in the bell, continuing to give off their heat. Such a stove does not need a high chimney. Such an oven is practically not blown out. The hood or hoods can be of different shapes and sizes, which allows you to make an oven of any shape and size. In bell-type furnaces, any fuel can be used - even gas and electric heaters. In bell-type furnaces, efficiency is higher and they are more economical. This system is more advantageous than options 1 2 3.

The use of combined smoke circulation systems in furnaces is allowed. The combinations are different and there are a lot of them. When designing, it is possible to combine vertical, horizontal turns and caps in different versions.

Furnace with combined smoke recovery system

As an example, a combination of horizontal channels with a countercurrent system. There is also a forward flow system.

Furnace smoke circulation with direct flow system

Smoke recovery oven with co-current system and slits

Such a system is not suitable for a heating stove, but is suitable for fireplaces, barbecues, Russian stoves and, in some cases, sauna stoves. You can of course improve this scheme by adding to it heat load with cuts, but still, such a system is not suitable for space heating. Heating stoves allow the use of additional functions. Common options for such furnaces:

Heating stove with hob. Such an oven not only heats the room, but also allows you to cook or heat something on the stove. The disadvantage of this furnace: low firebox, lower heat capacity of the furnace itself, relatively rapid cooling of the furnace through the stove.
Heating oven with bread chamber (oven). Such a furnace is more heat-intensive and significantly outperforms the furnace with a welding plate. There are two options for such an oven:
- permanent action. Hot gases do not pass through the oven itself, but heat it only from below or from all sides. The so-called clean bread chamber.
– intermittent action. Hot gases pass through the oven, heating it from the inside. Cooking in such a stove is possible only after the complete combustion of firewood in the firebox.
Heating furnace with water register. This stove allows you to heat water radiators (batteries) and distribute heat throughout the room. But it is better to use a specialized furnace-boiler for this purpose.

Heating stoves can be combined. You can put the stove and oven, the register and the oven at the same time, etc. You can make a stove with two fireboxes. Each firebox works for its own load (which is more correct). Such heating stoves can be combined with a fireplace (open or closed). Also, such stoves can be made with a stove bench and or with a heating shield on the second floor.

There are a lot of options for heating stoves. You can always choose for yourself the furnace that best meets your requirements.

Forms of brick ovens for the home

In addition to the specifics of functions, other parameters can be used to classify brick ovens.

In form, the following options for stoves for a brick house are found:

Rectangular. It is easiest to build such structures.
Square. They have the most compact dimensions.
corner. A great option for small spaces and rooms with a complex configuration.
Round. Very exotic and beautiful.
T-shaped. The most traditional kind of brick ovens for the home.

The shape of the stove is usually chosen based on the specifics of the installation site and the preferences of the owners of the house.

There are also varieties of stoves for the home according to the furnace model, where the main parameter is the wall thickness:

thick-walled. Differ in the highest efficiency.
Thin-walled. They are completed only with cooking varieties of brick ovens.
Combined. Usually used in heating and cooking types of stoves for the home.

As a rule, the finished brick structure of the furnace is additionally finished in one way or another.

For these purposes can be used:

Plaster.
Decorative brick.
Tiles or stove tiles.
Special metal case.

The choice of finishing option mainly depends on the overall interior of the home and the type of brick oven. The first three options will require the use of a special heat-resistant solution based on high-quality clay. In principle, for this you can use the same mixture on which the masonry was carried out. Dry powders of factory packaging are especially good in this regard: to prepare the finished solution, they must be diluted in water, in the proportions indicated on the package. In the case of plaster, an additional reinforcing steel mesh is usually used, which is fixed to the brick walls. Plaster work it is allowed to carry out only after the masonry has completely dried.

As for facing with decorative bricks or tiles, only special heat-resistant samples that tolerate significant temperature fluctuations can be used for these purposes. In some cases, brick walls are left without any finishing, however, for this, the masonry must be done with the highest quality. This is also allowed in cases where there are no special requirements for the external design of the furnace. This happens, for example, if heating structure built somewhere in a garage, shed or greenhouse.

Types of chimneys

An additional parameter when choosing a furnace design is the shape of the chimney.

She may be:

Direct-flow.
Countercurrent with vertical or horizontal channels.
Single turn or multi turn.
No channels.
With bottom heat.

Structural elements of furnaces

Illustrations	Description of elements
	Foundation. This structural element takes on the load from the entire structure. That is, the foundation is the base on which the weight of the firebox, chimney and other massive and heavy parts is transferred. The foundation is laid directly on the ground and repeats the design of the foundation on which the house is built. The furnace foundation is built separately from bearing walls, from the foundation of the house, etc. If the wall is located nearby, a gap of 3-5 mm is maintained during the construction of the foundation. The gap is needed so that the base under the heavy brick structure is independently movable relative to the elements in the house structure.
	Shantsy. These are the first few rows in the design of the furnace, starting from the foundation. The use of trenches allows you to increase the heat transfer to the room. The best option is 2-3 rows of brickwork, starting from the foundation.
	Blower (ash chamber). This constructive element performs two functions: Provides air supply to the furnace, which is necessary for creating thrust and for combustion. It accumulates ash, which, as the fuel burns out, falls down from the furnace through the grate. In order for the blower to perform the listed tasks, a door is installed in it. By opening the door to the desired width, you can control the draft. Again, accumulated ash can be removed through this door. The instruction for using the blower is simple - after the fuel has burned out, the door must be completely closed. As a result, warm air stays in the furnace and does not go up the chimney
	Firebox (firebox). A firebox is a chamber designed for burning coal, firewood or other types of solid fuels. When building a firebox, refractory fireclay bricks are used. To protect the room from sparks and hot coals, a furnace door is installed at the entrance to the furnace. The traditional Russian stove is made with an open firebox, that is, it does not have a door. At the bottom of the firebox is a grate. In the part of the furnace farthest from the door, at the top there is a hole (hailo) designed to remove smoke. So that during the operation of the furnace, ash and hot coals do not fall out through the open door of the furnace, in the lower part of the furnace, before installing the door, the level rises slightly to get a kind of step
	Smoke channels (smoke rotations). These elements simultaneously remove smoke from the firebox to the chimney and take away heat. In order for the smoke to give up its heat, the smoke channels are made as long as possible. As a result, the temperature at the inlet to the channel and at the outlet can differ significantly. But the smoke circulation device is planned in such a way that these channels can be cleaned from accumulated soot from time to time. Improperly designed chimneys cause the stove to cool down quickly, as most of the heat goes into the chimney. Otherwise, the incorrect design of the smoke channels makes draft difficult, which also reduces the heating efficiency.
	Chimney (chimney). This element is directly related to smoke channels and is designed to generate traction. The draft is created due to the pressure difference in the furnace and at the exit from the chimney; Accordingly, the higher the pipe, the more thrust.

How to choose a stove for a brick house

When choosing a brick oven in the house, you should decide on the functions that it should perform. In addition to the presence of a cooking panel, it is worth noting the following criteria:

If it is intended to use the stove as a heating device, it must be economical;
We decided to lay out the oven on our own - make sure that the design has a simple appearance, this will allow you to easily cope with subsequent installation;
The oven must have a water circuit;

Many owners country cottages prefer to install decorative stoves to give a special design to the room. In this case, the classic Russian stove will be the best option; ease of use.

Important! Choosing a stove for a brick house should be with a professional stove-maker. He will help you choose best option, will tell you what material to use and how to carry out the laying.

How to choose a place for the oven

The stove can be installed in different places in the room, but its most optimal location will be embedding into walls between adjacent rooms. In this case, with a small area of \u200b\u200bthe house, one heating structure can be dispensed with if the heat-releasing surface is proportional to the size of the rooms into which they go.

It is very important to correctly determine the place of construction of a brick oven

The place chosen for the construction must be well measured and take into account some points:

The height of the ceiling of the room is important, since the brick oven must fit well into the space in its height.
The foundation for the furnace must be 110 ÷ 120 mm larger than its base, and for it it is also necessary to provide for a suitable area.
The chimney pipe, when laid up, should not stumble on the floor beams and on the rafter legs of the roof structure.

Features of laying a brick oven with your own hands

What are the nuances you need to know before proceeding with the laying of the furnace?