How to upholster a door with your own hands. How to sheathe a door made of wood, metal How to properly upholster a door with vinyl leather

Sooner or later, but any apartment owner comes to the conclusion that insulation front door is a necessity. Covering the door with leatherette with your own hands will help solve several important problems - these are its thermal and sound insulation and decorative design.

The fact that the door should be insulated usually comes in the cold season, when, it would seem, a draft begins to blow into very small cracks. But is it worth waiting for winter? Wouldn't it be better to do something like this beforehand?

When deciding on the transformation of the door leaf, you can turn to yourself easy way sheathing - even stretching of leatherette, and you can use more complex options when several pieces of material are used.

In any case, all the nuances need to be thought out in advance and prepare the necessary tools and materials for work.

Preparing for the door trim

So that nothing distracts the master directly in the process of work, you need to do the following in advance:

1. Prepare a sketch of the future skin, if it has any pattern. This may be a carefully crafted drawing or, in case of emergency, even a simple pencil sketch.

2. Based on the drawn up drawing, you can make a list of the necessary materials that will be needed for work:

• Leatherette or artificial leather can be purchased at specialized stores, where a large selection of this material is presented. There you can choose it not only by thickness, but also by color and texture pattern on the surface. The standard width of leatherette is 1100 ÷ 1400 mm - it is just right for the door leaf in the apartment. 200 ÷ 250 mm are added to the length of the door leaf.

If, however, a door is sheathed in a private house, which has two leaves, then to the dimensions obtained during measurement, you need to add 100 ÷ 150 mm, both in length and in width of the material.

Leatherette is also needed for the manufacture of rollers framing the door leaf. They are strips of material that have a length equal to the height of the door and a width of 130 ÷ 170 mm. These elements will need three pieces.

If the door leaf is sheathed with individual elements of leatherette, then more will be needed. When calculating the material in this case, it is necessary to take into account its inward bending on each individual element by 50 ÷ 100 mm from all sides.

Another option for sheathing with a pattern can be to remove it with separate strips of leatherette. Their number is calculated depending on the selected decorative design.

• Insulating material will help to achieve thermal and sound insulation.

Sheet foam rubber is well suited for insulation and sound insulation.

For these purposes, use a dense synthetic winterizer, felt or foam rubber. The material must have a thickness of at least 10 ÷ 25 mm, depending on its density and on the expected volume (embossment) of the pattern, which will be displayed using banners or decorative nails.

If it is insulated, then it is necessary to purchase foam sheets of the required thickness.

• In the event that it is planned to use nails covered with leatherette or artificial leather for decoration, then it is worth choosing the color of their hats so that the whole composition looks harmonious.

The sheathing will look more presentable if the nail heads are large enough and the same color as the canvas of the entire sheathing.

Another option would be metal-headed nails that mimic the color and texture of the handles and locks.

• To finish a metal door, you will need glue, since leatherette and a thin layer of insulation will be glued to its front side. For this purpose, the universal "Moment" or "88" glue is well suited.
• For the manufacture of sealing rollers, it is best to purchase a ready-made round insulation with a diameter of 10 ÷ 20 mm. It is sold by the meter in hardware stores. Such material will give the roller a neat, uniform rounded shape.

3. For work, you also need to prepare some tools:

• A small hammer for driving nails.
• Stapler with staples for fixing the material to the surface before driving decorative nails. Optimal size staples - 8 ÷ 10 mm.
• Scissors and a construction knife for cutting and cutting materials.
• To dismantle the locks and handles and then install them back to their original place, you will need a screwdriver or a screwdriver with different nozzles (bits).
• It will be nice to have pliers and a nail puller on hand, they can be useful for removing old trim and removing nails that have entered the door leaf incorrectly.

4. Having bought all the necessary tools and materials, you can begin the preparatory work.

• First, from the door you need to remove all installed on it elements - locks, handles and viewing eye.
• If a door is being sheathed, on which there is already an old finishing material, it must be removed. The nailed material can be bent with a nail puller, separating the leatherette from the surface, and then, hooking the nails with the tool, carefully remove the canvas completely.

If the insulation is not glued to the door, the old trim will come off easily. The thin layer of material remaining on the surface does not fit the new finish.

• Further, some masters remove the door from its hinges and, for the convenience of further work, lay it on several chairs or on a fairly large table. Before removing the door from the hinges, it is imperative to make lines on the door leaf along the contour of the door frame.
• In most cases, the skin is carried out in its vertical position, without removing it from the hinges.

Leatherette door trim process

As you know, the door is usually sheathed on both sides - from the outside and the inside, there are some differences in these processes that you need to know about when starting work. In addition, there is a significant difference in the technology of finishing wood and metal doors.

And, of course, there are different ones that also need to be considered before starting work.

Paneling inside a wooden door

Getting started, you need to immediately pay attention to where the door opens - towards the entrance or into the apartment, since the location and size of the rollers will depend on this.

This publication will consider the option when the door opens inside the apartment.

• The first step is the installation of the sealing rollers. They are made from prepared strips of leatherette and ready-made foam rollers or strips of other insulating material.

Leatherette is folded in half and a strip of insulation is put inside. Then, a roller is placed around the perimeter of the door, so that it protrudes 4 ÷ 7 mm beyond the canvas, since it must cover the gap between the jamb of the door frame and the door, which is formed after it is closed. On the hinge side, the roller should completely cover the door jamb. The roller is fixed with stapler and staples, starting at the top right corner. From there they go to the upper left corner, then frame the sides with it. It is fixed to the bottom part last.

• The next step is cutting out the insulation. The size of the cut strip should be 8 ÷ 10 mm smaller than the door leaf.

It is also fixed with brackets to the door plane, leaving 20 ÷ 30 mm free at the edges so that you can wrap a decorative one between the insulation and the door. material - leatherette.

• Next, you need to correctly place the main canvas of leatherette. The main thing is to prevent distortions, otherwise the work will look sloppy.

When installing the main upholstery, it is very important not to make a mistake with the exact direction of the leatherette strip and its uniform tension.

First, the top of the canvas is fixed. It is bent under the insulation and nailed with decorative nails, placing them at a distance of 80 ÷ 100 mm from each other.

After the top edge is fixed and the correct direction is checked again, it is nailed left-hand side and then right. In the course of fastening, the material is stretched. The bottom edge of the material is nailed last.

• Then, it is very important to precisely mark and cut the holes for the locks and the peephole.
• If there is a desire to make a drawing on the surface, then you first need to mark it, and then fill it with decorative carnations according to the marking, starting from the center of the canvas. At the same time, you need to try not to pull the leatherette too much so that sagging does not appear.

Video: a lesson on sheathing a wooden door from the inside

Wooden door - outer skin

The door trim, which opens inside the apartment, from the side of the entrance is produced as follows:

• Before starting work, you need to close the door, and outline the opening of the door frame on the door leaf. This line will determine the location of the trim on the door leaf. If leatherette is nailed to the entire surface, then both the door and the lock will not close.
• The insulation is cut out 10 mm smaller than the outlined area, and fixed with brackets.

• Further, with tucking behind the insulation, leatherette is stuffed along the marked line, in the same order as on the inside of the door - first from above, then on the sides. The bottom edge remains free for now - it will be attached later.

• In this case, the insulation roller is fixed to the outside of the door frame jamb from three sides, and it is not installed on the threshold. This element, when fixed, should close the gaps, being on the door leaf by 20 ÷ 25 mm. But the keyhole must be free, and this must be foreseen in advance.
• The bottom roller should not be made voluminous, as it will simply be erased over time, and will look sloppy.

It is fixed along the bottom of the door itself, and its edge should not go beyond the marked line by a single millimeter, since in this case the door will not be able to close. This element, when closing the door, should fit snugly against the sill from above, that is, as it were, on it.

• On the roller nailed to the door, they pull and nail the lower part of the main fabric of leatherette, or, as shown in the photo, you can hide the lower edge in the fixed roller.
• Further, holes are made in the leatherette sheathing for door accessories - locks, peepholes and handles. They need to be cut very carefully, without expanding more than necessary.

Video: how to sheathe a wooden door with leatherette from the outside

Metal door - leatherette finish

AT last years in apartments of high-rise buildings, a second door made of metal is increasingly being installed, in addition to the wooden one. It is good if it is possible to immediately purchase insulated and, but very often it consists only of a metal sheet and a frame made of a corner or a profile pipe. In this case, the owner of the apartment picks up the tools and independently brings the door into proper shape.

The inner and outer sides of the metal door leaf also have their own characteristics in their sheathing.

The inside of a metal door

If an unsightly metal frame without insulation and decorative materials, this can be easily fixed by installing foam sheets of suitable thickness and covering it all with a decorative panel. To work, you will need materials that are somewhat different from the sheathing of a wooden door.

• Styrofoam with a thickness equal to the depth of the frame frame.
• Mounting foam will be needed to seal the seams between the installed foam and the metal frame.
• Wooden slats for fixing on the inside sides of the frame - they will be needed as a basis for attaching a decorative panel.
• Self-tapping screws and drills for metal - they will drill holes in the corners ( profile pipe) for screwing wooden slats to the metal frame.
• Decorative nails for fixing leatherette on the plywood surface.
• Wood screws for screwing plywood sheet to wooden slats.
• A sheet of plywood, in shape and area equal to the door frame, not more than 10 mm thick.
• Decorative leatherette and a thin sheet of foam rubber, 10 ÷ 15 mm thick.
• Glue or double-sided tape to secure the insulation to the plywood.

The work on finishing the inner surface of the door is as follows:

• Wooden slats are screwed to the inner ribs of the metal frame. It is first necessary to drill through holes through the rails and metal frame elements.

• After fixing the rails, gaps may form between them and the metal sheet, which will become cold bridges, so they are sealed with mounting foam. It will contribute, in addition, to the rigidity of the fastening of the rails.

• Further, a foam plastic is installed between the fixed and insulated rails, around which foam is also passed. Such processing will also help to securely fix the foam in the cells and close the last paths of possible cold penetration.

• On the plywood sheet, you need to mark the location of the wooden slats in the frame, since they will have to be screwed to them.
• If you need to hide the caps of the self-tapping screws under the cladding, then the plywood must be screwed to its sheathing.
• First, the sheet is twisted to the middle rails, so that all edges remain free to put leatherette behind them.
• Foam rubber is fixed on the installed plywood with glue, or better - with double-sided masking tape.
• Leatherette is stretched from above, tucked over the edges of the plywood, and in the corners and along the edges in the middle of the sheet it is screwed through with self-tapping screws, the heads of which are sunk into the plywood. The resulting holes can be carefully sealed with a piece of material, and next to drive a carnation with a decorative hat.
• Further, leatherette is stretched and nailed around the entire perimeter with carnations. Since the nails are quite hard to drive into plywood, you need to choose durable, made of high-quality metal that will not bend.
• Thus, the decorative panel will be well fixed to the frame.
• Then, on it it is necessary to outline location lock, cut leatherette and insulation, and then carefully drill holes in plywood.

It must be said that instead of plywood and leatherette, you can use laminated lining to decorate the inner surface of the door. Its installation is carried out from below and gradually rise to the top, and the sides of the lining are closed with a special corner.

The outer side of the metal door

When decorating the outer side of a metal door, for laying under leatherette, you can use not too thick felt, which is glued to a metal surface.

• The insulation is cut out less than the size of the door leaf by 7 ÷ 10 mm, and the leatherette is larger than this size by 60 ÷ 80 mm. This extra section will go to the edge of the bend on the other side of the sheet.
• A polymer adhesive is applied to the surface of the metal sheet in strips.
• Next, a heater is applied to it and pressed. It is necessary to give time for the glue to grab and dry.
• Leatherette is stretched on top of the insulation, bent over the edges of the metal door panel and glued on the other side. It is best to use a quick-drying universal adhesive for this purpose.

First, the top edge of the material is glued. Further, it is stretched and fixed to the side of the door. When excess material is formed on the inversions, it is best to cut it off, otherwise it may interfere with the free closing of the door leaf.

If the finishing material is very dense, and too thick a fold is obtained at the corners, then it is better to cut off some of the leatherette in these places.

• If you do all the work slowly, then the door will turn out neat and respectable.

• At the end, door panels are installed and screwed onto the door. accessories - locks with handles and a peephole, if provided for installation.

Video: finishing a metal door with leatherette

"Carriage" trim

"Carriage" sheathing or screed is quite popular, since the door after it looks aesthetically pleasing and respectable. However, not every apartment owner can afford this, since the work on its implementation is quite painstaking and requires skill.

"Carriage" trim looks very impressive

Such sheathing is performed in two different ways - from solid material or from pre-cut pieces of leatherette. Both methods are risky, since in both the first and second versions the material can be damaged, and the door is not sheathed if there is no experience in performing such a “filigree” work.

... however, not everyone can do such a difficult job.

Therefore, for starters, you can practice and sheathe in this way, for example, the surface of a stool. Any fabric can be used for training.

For all the work to be successful, you need to carry out a number of preparatory activities. It is very important not to neglect the careful markup - only in this case you can get geometrically even shapes of squares or rhombuses.

• For marking, you need to take a sheet of thin plywood, the same size as the door leaf. It must be drawn into even squares or rectangles.
• At the intersections of the lines, round holes are marked and then drilled so that they form rhombuses or squares with their corners.
• Plywood is superimposed on a foam rubber mat and through the holes on it, places are marked where decorative nails will be hammered.

Preliminary marking for "carriage" upholstery

• Further, the marked foam rubber is transferred to a wooden base. If it is too thick, then round holes can be cut into it for driving nails.
• A stapler is passed around the holes or drawn circles, nailing the insulation to the base and outlining the recesses.
• Leatherette is drawn from the wrong side into even squares, which should be 8 ÷ 10 mm larger on each side than the figures drawn on the foam rubber. These extra millimeters are needed to bend the edges of the material when it is nailed.
• Then, the material is cut into lined fragments, and you can proceed to fix it on the door leaf.
• The pieces are superimposed on the foam rubber according to the markup and nailed. You can first outline them with a stapler, and then nail them with decorative carnations.

Each fragment is stacked and fastened separately - extreme accuracy is needed

• It is necessary to ensure that the pieces of leatherette overlap each other in one direction, otherwise the harmony of the pattern will be disturbed.
• Without proper experience, the work will seem rather complicated and long, however, if you have patience, you can gradually complete it successfully.

It is much more difficult to derive a carriage pattern from a solid canvas, since it is very difficult to accurately measure and capture the same strips that will serve as a foam rubber screed between the nails.

Prices for various types of door upholstery kits

door upholstery kit

Video: one of the options for the "carriage" door trim leatherette

There are other ways to upholster the door using thin strips of leatherette or fishing line, but in order to achieve the desired success, first, in all cases, careful marking of the door leaf is necessary.

If this work is done independently, then not only will there be experience and skill in its implementation, but also a significant amount will be saved. Therefore, if there is a desire to try yourself in this kind of wallpaper art, then it is worth taking a chance by training to start on small planes.

TOP-12 best entrance door manufacturers

	A photo	Name	Rating	Price
Best Budget Entry Doors
#1		Became	⭐ 100 / 100
#2		Neman	⭐ 99 / 100
#3		Outpost	⭐ 98 / 100
#4		Bravo	⭐ 97 / 100
#5		Groff	⭐ 96 / 100
The best elite entrance doors
#1		Torex	⭐ 99 / 100
#2		Elbor	⭐ 98 / 100
#3		Dierre	⭐ 97 / 100
#4		Fortus	⭐ 96 / 100
#5		Legrand	⭐ 95 / 100
#6		Bastion	⭐ 94 / 100
#7		guardian	⭐ 93 / 100

Became

Entrance doors under the Stal brand perfectly combine affordability and excellent quality. The manufacturer managed to achieve balance in different parameters due to a complex design that provides high strength. Reinforced doors with armored inserts are made to order. System protection is provided to prevent unauthorized opening. The lineup of Steel is constantly updated. The customer can choose from powder coated, wood, veneer or laminated panel finishes. The catalog contains both models of classic design and exclusive design developments.

• wide range of;
• value for money.

budget doors are weak.

Outpost

In order to successfully compete in the domestic market, the Russian company Forpost had to launch door production in China. Since 2009, the products have become in great demand among Russians, and sales volumes have reached 500,000 doors per year. In general, ordinary users are satisfied with the products. They celebrate good quality assembly, rich model range, developed service network. Not without doors and some shortcomings. The most unpleasant of them is the appearance on the market of low-quality fakes.

• affordable price for prestigious models;
• wide service network;
• rich range.

• counterfeit products appeared;
• poor sound insulation in budget models;
• Fittings fit only original.

Bravo

Today, the manufacturer boasts model range in 350 units. Here the buyer has a lot to choose from. The catalog contains the most modern types of doors, from veneered models to 3D-Graf finishing. Doors also differ structurally, in the range there are sliding, folding and special models. Door leafs under such brands as Bravo, Bravo Lux, Groff and Belarusian Doors are also widely represented on the market. All products are made from environmentally friendly materials, they meet the stringent requirements of international standards.

• a wide range of products;
• affordable price;
• a wide variety of designs and finishes.

• thin metal;
• bad soundproofing.

Entrance door Bravo

Groff

Groff entrance doors are produced by the domestic manufacturer Bravo. They are a premium line. For the manufacture of canvases, thick steel is used, fire-resistant Knauf mineral wool as a heater. Structurally, the doors are reinforced with stiffeners, equipped with reliable locks. As a result, the products correspond to the fourth class of burglary resistance. Entrance doors of this series are not only distinguished by strength and durability. They have exceptionally high aesthetic properties. For finishing, the manufacturer used wide range decorative panels.

• massiveness and good quality;
• good heat and sound insulation;
• anti-slip pins.

• warped after six months of operation;
• high price.

Entrance door Groff

Torex

Torex entrance doors are manufactured in accordance with the most advanced developments. Today the company boasts a wide distribution network in the CIS. Production facilities are now fully loaded, and the annual production of doors has reached 10,000 units. The manufacturer does not stop there, new developments appear on the market with enviable constancy. It is possible to ensure maximum strength and reliability of products through the use of two steel sheets. The role of the base is played by a one-piece bent profile 2 mm thick. Designers from Italy often take part in the design of doors.

no models available.

Dierre

Italian door manufacturer Dierre needs no introduction. The products of this company are known in different countries world, as evidenced by the annual sales of 200 thousand products. In Russia, production facilities have been created that provide the domestic market with products with the Dierre trademark. The company independently develops new designs, introducing the latest achievements in the field of locking. So, "smart" entrance doors are equipped with a system remote control, the role of the key is played by a chip with 128-bit encryption. A solid design is considered a chip of Italians. Under the chosen style, unique fittings are also made.

• innovative approach;
• unique design;
• a large assortment.

• there is no choice of accessories;
• high price.

Fortus

Door blocks Fortus favorably differ from competitors in their design. They resemble the famous Lego toy, allowing the customer to assemble on their own suitable model. The choice is given the type of door (single- or double-leaf, combined), fittings, locking mechanism. The consumer determines the number of locks, the degree of secrecy, the color of the canvas, the shape of the handles, the method of finishing. Thanks to the extensive Fortus catalog, the total number of variants reaches four figures. The manufacturer goes to meet its customers, making entrance doors of non-standard sizes in accordance with the proposed project. When creating door blocks, only high-quality materials are used, as well as reliable locks from Cisa, Esety, Mul-T-Lock and Mottura.

• quality assembly;
• you can realize any idea;
• smooth move.

• there is no choice of accessories.

Legrand

The original quality of finishing Legrand entrance doors was to the taste of domestic consumers. As a finishing material, the manufacturer used MDF panels, which are processed on modern CNC machines. To increase the service life, a polymer coating is used that protects the canvas from atmospheric influences. A wide range of colors adds variety to the range. Some collections are finished with natural wood, which gives the doors aristocracy and exclusivity. Buyers have a wide choice, from basic equipment to modified equipment. For easy movement, the door hinges are equipped with bearings.

• original finish;
• a diverse range of models;
• hinges on bearings.

• unreliable protection against corrosion;
• bad soundproofing.

Bastion

One of the flagships in the production of entrance doors is the Bastion brand. Products are made according to the standard scheme, first a frame is formed from a square metal profile. Then steel sheets are welded to it. The void is filled with basalt wool, which, in addition to good insulating properties, has fire resistance. When choosing a model, the buyer is given the opportunity to independently determine the type of anti-burglary system and anti-removable loops. The finish can also be changed according to the client's requests. Glass or wooden elements, as well as forged inserts, are capable of decorating the door.

• high build quality;
• a wide range in different price segments;
• beautiful finish.

• unreliable fittings;
• not the most efficient service.

Additional advantages of leatherette-covered doors are improved sound and heat insulation.

The appearance of entrance and interior doors, even with good care, deteriorates noticeably during operation. If the product is still durable and able to last for a long time, then upholstery of doors with dermantine will help to correct its aesthetic properties. This long-known option for finishing the door leaf has additional advantages in the form of increased sound and heat insulation.

Dermantin has a rich color range

What special qualities does the material have that allow the door to be covered with leatherette for both street and interior structures? In fact, the list of positive qualities of leatherette looks impressive:

• Humidity resistance. street door, upholstered in leatherette, you will not have to suffer from rain: water drops easily roll off the surface of the material. With the same success, its waterproofing properties keep the insulation layer intact.
• Immunity to ultraviolet radiation. While most paints and varnishes fade mercilessly under the sun, leatherette retains its decorative qualities unchanged.
• Frost-resistant properties protect door upholstery from deformation.
• Resistance to harmful microflora. Sheathing dermantin is not subject to rot, mold, or mites.
• Neutral attitude towards chemical cleaners. If the front door upholstery is heavily soiled with leatherette, it can be cleaned with any means.
• Large variety of colors. The material is presented in such a wide range of shades that it will not be difficult not to choose an option that is in harmony with the interior.
• Durability. Leatherette retains its performance properties for 7-10 years.
• Affordable price- not the most important, but still a pleasant fact, which only increases the popularity of the material.

When all are listed positive properties upholstery material, it would be dishonest to remain silent about its shortcomings. Although they are few, they are still there:

• Relatively low strength. It cannot be said that leatherette needs very careful handling, but, by and large, it is a fabric, albeit a very dense one. You can cut it without much effort, and with very rough handling there is a chance to tear the upholstery.
• Problematic repair. Cuts or tears on such a surface cannot be fixed, therefore, if the material is damaged, there is nothing left but to sheathe the door with leatherette again.
• Fire susceptibility. In case of fire, it ignites easily, and since the door is upholstered with leatherette, this can lead to blocking the exit from the burning room.

What to look for when choosing a door upholstery kit

For the upholstery of the door, you need to prepare tools.

The standard set for upholstery of doors consists of leatherette, insulation and decorative nails. How to choose right stuff to make sure it lasts for a long time?

Leatherette should have a high density and have elastic properties. Be sure to pay attention to its smell - if it is sharp, gross violations of technology are not excluded. Such material can evaporate harmful substances, which means that it is not suitable for interior decoration in residential premises.

Heaters - isolon, batting, foam rubber. If you choose based on the lowest cost, this is foam rubber. It has a low density, therefore, during the finishing decorative finish, it forms a beautiful pronounced relief. If the insulation must provide heat and sound insulation, isolon is best suited for this task.

Upholstery of an external or interior door with leatherette

Sheathing a door with dermantine with your own hands is not a very difficult task. First you need to prepare the necessary material and tools. This list is compiled depending on how the door will be upholstered. But the required components of the list will be:

• leatherette;
• insulation;
• scissors, sharp construction knife;
• a hammer;
• construction stapler;
• roulette;
• decorative nails.

Traditional door trim

The door leaf is laid on a flat horizontal surface.

First you need to prepare the door leaf. It is removed from the hinges, the fittings are unscrewed, dust is swept away, dirt and grease are cleaned. Before starting the main work, you can immediately prepare the rollers, which will further ensure the insulation of the doorway. For a door that opens into the room, 3 rollers are required, and if outside, then 4. The length of the roller must correspond to the parameters of the part of the door where it will be located, and the width is such that it is possible to lay the insulation roller inside and fold the tape in half lengthwise. To attach the roller to a wooden door, it will be convenient to use a construction stapler. The roller will have to be glued to the iron door. Insulation is laid in the same way: the canvas cut to size is glued or shot with staples.

Then comes the turn of leatherette. The method of its installation depends on the door.

• Metal doors need glue. First, it is evenly distributed with a brush along the perimeter of the door leaf and a lining is glued to this line, on top of which leatherette is laid on a new layer of glue.
• Leatherette is attached to a wooden door with a decorative nail.

The final stage of work includes the installation of fittings.

A special way for the lazy

Covering the door with leatherette, without removing the door from the hinges.

This method is called so because the upholstery of the door with dermantine is carried out without removing the door from the hinges. This is especially convenient if the weight of the door is large, which makes it difficult to remove. At the same time, sheathing the door with leatherette on weight is a very inconvenient task.

The beginning of work looks the same as in the previous case: the fittings are removed from the door and cleaned. Then the roller is mounted: the prepared leatherette tape is laid along the edge of the door leaf and fixed with a construction stapler or nails every 15 cm. At the next stage, a sheet of foam rubber is shot with a stapler. The leatherette sheet should have reserves of 3 cm on all sides. They begin to fasten it from the center line of the top of the door. Carefully stretching, it is nailed around the entire perimeter. Now it's the turn to return to the formation of rollers, the blanks for which we had nailed at the very beginning. To do this, roll up a long roller, lay it along the edge of the door leaf, wrap a strip of leatherette and, twisting the edge inward, nail it with decorative nails every 10 cm. After the fittings are installed, the work is over.

Door upholstery with dermantine using a frame profile

Door trim materials

This method allows you to create almost any, even the most intricate pattern on the upholstery, since the markings for placing decorative nails are made directly on the surface of the door.

Additional details should be included in the door upholstery kit: a one-sided frame profile, which will ensure uniform tension of the fabric, and decorative furniture buttons with a top trimmed with leatherette. These buttons are unscrewed into two separate parts, one of which will be on the door leaf, and the second on top of the leatherette.

After dismantling the fittings and cleaning the door leaf, it is necessary to start marking the lines on which the lower elements of the furniture buttons will be located. With the help of a ruler and a square, we determine the necessary points and generously drip assembly glue on them. Glue the threaded button elements to the surface. We measure the sides of the door and cut the profile according to the measurements obtained. We put it on construction glue around the perimeter of the door leaf. Now you have to wait until the glue dries - it will take about a day. In order not to waste time, we are preparing the insulation: we need to prepare the holes for the buttons.

After a day, we continue the upholstery of the door: we lay the insulation in such a way as to align the holes with the threads of the buttons. If there is excess material that protrudes beyond the edges, they must be cut off. Now it's dermantin's turn. We carry out exactly the same procedure. Now, when all the threaded pins are located in their sockets, you can screw on the decorative hats, after which the leatherette, evenly pulling, is tucked into the profile.

This completes the door trim. After installing the fittings, the canvas is hung in a permanent place.

Tiled upholstery method

Door upholstery with chopped leatherette

Fine painstaking work, but the result looks amazing. It is made from dermantin cut into rhombuses. As a rule, the door is sheathed in a single color scheme, but this method is good because creative people can experiment and create interesting ornaments on the surface of the door.

For this option, you will have to perform more complex markings on the surface of the door: draw them into diamonds of the same size. In the corner of each rhombus, we put the lower element of the furniture button on the glue and set the door leaf aside for a day. Like last time, we make cuts on the insulation, cut the leatherette into rhombuses slightly larger than the markup. A day later we return to the door. We lay the foam rubber in accordance with the prepared cuts, perform additional fastening with a stapler along the edge and door leaf (3-4 brackets around each pin). We start laying out rhombuses around the perimeter. We bend the edges of the blanks and shoot them with a stapler. It is necessary to ensure that in the process of upholstery on the dermantine there are no distortions.

How to sheathe a door with dermantine so that it is not only durable, but also beautiful? We have offered several options, choose your own, which you can implement, and the result will be stunning.

Material such as dermantin is very popular because of its technical properties and ease of maintenance. So, leatherette is able to withstand harsh conditions of cold and moisture, is stable and durable, easy to clean and withstands high temperatures. Also dermantin is known because of its low cost. Of the minuses, the impossibility of restoring the material is noted: despite the resistance to mechanical stress, after damage to any area, the entire leaf will need to be replaced, because the door will lose its aesthetic appearance even after gluing the gaps.

Step-by-step guide to upholstery of iron and other doors with dermantine

Upholstery of doors with leatherette is an easy and inexpensive way to decorate and insulate a home, which begins with the entrance to a house or apartment.

To perform this work, you will need to know some of the features of the door trim. Namely: the properties and characteristics of leatherette, the lining material used, tools when working with wood or metal, decorative, fasteners and more.

Dermantine (from ancient Greek leather) is a type of artificial leather made from cotton fabric and a layer of nitrocellulose covering the fabric on one or both sides.

Leatherette for door upholstery is positioned on the market as a substitute for expensive genuine leather, which is not inferior to it in individual characteristics. It is also used for furniture upholstery, book pieces, bags, wallets and car interiors.

Dermantin is a finishing material that has the following advantages:

• Not subject to rotting and decomposition, resistant to various microorganisms;
• Moisture resistant, does not allow moisture to penetrate into the layer of lining material, protecting it from mold and bad smell;
• Relatively durable material that can last ten years with proper care;
• Resistant to abrasion and chemical reagents (acids and alkalis);
• Easy to wash and clean with conventional detergents: soap and powder;
• Frost-resistant, able to withstand temperatures up to minus 35 degrees (depending on the type of leatherette).

Despite all the positive properties of dermantin, many are not satisfied with its shortcomings, namely: with the slightest damage (cut or rupture), the leather substitute cannot be repaired and a separate part replaced, thus full door upholstery with dermantin is required.

When burning, the leather substitute emits harmful substances that are unsafe for human health and contributes to the rapid spread of fire, as it is combustible and fire hazardous. These disadvantages are not so important, given that dermantin has a lot of useful consumer qualities, some of which are described above.

The distinctive properties of leatherette include the fact that leatherette can be easily and simply cut, it does not crumple, does not wrinkle and does not shrink. In addition, there is a fairly wide selection of material colors on the market from gray to red. So you can choose what will most harmoniously fit into the interior of the apartment.

What characteristics should be considered when buying leatherette? When buying leatherette for upholstery, you should pay attention to how the material stretches, whether it forms cracks when stretched. Also look at such a parameter as wear resistance, it should be at least 30,000, and preferably all 50,000 cycles. The greater the number of cycles, the stronger the fabric is to abrasion.

Leatherette should be resistant to kinks from bending the material and scratches. Also consider leatherette's UV resistance characteristics if your door is exposed to direct sunlight most of the time.

The surface of the leatherette can be smooth or matte, imitate aged leather, etc. Pay attention to the color scheme of the artificial turf, what color and texture will best harmonize with the design of handles and hinges, a peephole and other fittings.

Regular and decorative upholstery

When choosing material for upholstery in a store, take into account the type of door constriction. There are two types of screed: regular and decorative.

Conventional upholstery includes a simple trim of the door leaf with a smooth sheet of leatherette, which is attached to the base only at the edges. A decorative tape is also attached around the perimeter, fixed to the door every 10 cm.

Decorative or carriage upholstery of doors with dermantine is a kind of decoration performed on a base of wood or MDF - panels nailed to the door leaf.

First, the fabric is stretched over the entire door leaf, and then in some places it is fixed with buttons or nails with leather caps. In this case, the pattern on the canvas from the buttons can be diamond-shaped or square, depending on the preferences of the owner of the premises.

Sheathing elements for a wooden door: rollers, lining material, nails

When preparing for a hauling, it is important to know about the basic materials and elements due to which the door sheathing process takes place.

rollers

When upholstering doors with dermantine, rollers are used. A roller is a special element that serves to protect the house from drafts and cold. It forms a tube of lining and leatherette, nailed around the entire perimeter of the entrance to the door leaf or to the door frame.

The method of placement depends on the type of door opening. If it opens into the room, then the roller is placed on the back side of the entrance to the house. The roller should extend beyond the box by a few millimeters. In this case, the distance between the canvas and the roller should be such that the roller "slows down" the opening of the door and it slams shut with little effort.

Upholstery of doors with dermantine is carried out without a roller in only one case: if the metal structure is installed without special bars that allow rollers to be attached to them.

backing material

Upholstery lining is most often used foam rubber or isolon with the addition of batting. It is not excluded the use of one batting or synthetic winterizer. When using the latter, a more rigid and ribbed structure is obtained.

Foam rubber allows you to achieve softer and smoother surface drops. It has better sound insulation properties than batting and synthetic winterizer, and isolon boasts the most outstanding thermal insulation.

Isolon is a new lining material made of polyethylene, more expensive, but also more perfect. He doesn't miss cold air and absorbs noise, being an environmentally friendly material.

Nails

Upholstery of doors with dermantine is carried out using special nails with wide hats. Sheathing nails can be either metal or leather (leatherette). Steel nails come in silver and gold.

Leather nails are made by hand, so their cost may be slightly higher than usual. In addition, there are special decorative nails that serve as door decoration.

To give the door leaf a beautiful and modern look, it is not at all necessary to spend huge sums on paying for hauling masters. Do-it-yourself door upholstery with dermantine is easy and simple, you only need proper preparation doors to the hauling and tools with materials.

Preparing the door for reupholstering

How to determine the dimensions of the material required for upholstery of doors with dermantine, given the dimensions of the door leaf?

The leatherette should be equal to the area of ​​the door plus 15 cm on each side.

For rollers, one cut 14-15 cm wide and equal to the height of the door and two cuts cut along the width of the door leaf are required. The number of rollers is increased if the door opens outwards (all four sides are upholstered). Foam rubber or isolon is cut out the size of a door leaf, the thickness of the insulation should be no more than 2 cm.

Let's count the number of nails. It depends on the pattern and the distance between the nails. For a standard door, you may need somewhere around 50-60 pieces, excluding the pattern.

Tools for work: hammer, stapler, knife, pliers, scissors, nails. For metal doors, upholstery is carried out without nails, on an adhesive basis. Glue will need at least 100 ml.

door technology

We free the door from everything superfluous: from handles, hinges, old upholstery, etc. At the first stage, they will only interfere. The methods of fastening the leatherette to the door leaf differ depending on the material of the door.

Wood

We make rollers: right on the door we fix strips of leatherette face down with a stapler. We lay the tubes of insulation and tuck, closing the foam rubber. We clog with a stapler or nails. At the bottom of the door leaf, the material must be hammered so that the distance between the roller and the floor is 1-2 cm, otherwise the roller will simply rub off at the points of contact with the floor.

We strengthen the lining: we fix the foam rubber with a stapler starting from the middle of the door leaf (so the likelihood that the material will warp will be reduced to zero). We fix the lining so that the distance to the edge of the door is 1-2 cm. We fix the batting on the foam rubber layer (it protects the foam rubber from damage).

We fasten the dermantin: first, we turn it 6-8 cm from above and fix it with nails, making sure that there are no folds and creases. Then, straightening, we stretch on the sides and hammer with nails around the perimeter of the door. Properly stretched material does not wrinkle or form folds. The distance between the nails is a maximum of 10 cm, a minimum of 5 cm.

Metal

The door is removed and placed on a flat base, for example, on four stools. Lubricate with glue around the perimeter of the canvas and in the center, fix the insulation. Press the foam rubber to the surface and leave to dry a little.

Then the main cut of the leather substitute is glued starting from the top, just like with a wooden structure, moving to the sides and ending at the bottom.

Source: http://o-dveryah.ru/remont/obivka-dermantinom/

Sheathe the door with dermantine

If you want to update the entrance to your house without significant costs, there is a great way out of the situation - do-it-yourself upholstery of the door with dermantine.

To do this work is actually very simple, but you must first clarify all the nuances. Depending on the material from which the door leaf is made and the direction in which the door opens, there are certain differences in the principle of fastening the new upholstery.

Leatherette sheathing is a great way to update the door

Preparatory work

Among all the things that can sheathe an old wooden or metal door, dermantin is certainly the best option, it is quite affordable, looks good and is easy to work with.

First of all, you need to buy everything necessary materials:

• dermantin (should be 10 cm more than the door leaf on each side);
• lining material;
• furniture nails;
• thin decorative cord;
• glue;
• furniture stapler.

It is better to remove the door leaf from the hinges, so it will be easier to work. Then remove all fittings, remove the old coating and clean the door of dust and grease.

In order to sheathe the door with dermantine as correctly as possible, it is necessary to pay attention to the direction in which it opens, this is necessary in order to use the number of rollers required in each case, if outwards - you need four pieces for each side, inside - three are enough. These rollers will contribute to better insulation of the opening.

The upholstery of the front door carries a high mechanical load - this must be taken into account when choosing leatherette

For each roller, you will need a strip of leatherette 10-15 cm wide and a piece of lining, for example, a synthetic winterizer. Fasten one edge of the strip along one of the sides of the door face down, then roll up the padding polyester and wrap it with the second end of the dermantine. The work can be done with a stapler, nails or glue in the case of a metal sheet.

Attaching the backing material

Before sheathing the front door with dermantine, you should take care of its heat and sound insulation.

If you use foam rubber, the effect will be minimal, it is better to purchase more modern material- isolon, it is quite dense and copes well with these tasks. The lining should completely cover the door leaf; on the side of the hinges, when opening it externally, it is necessary to leave a small indent.

Foam rubber is most often used as a lining material.

If you are working with a wooden door, the lining is fixed with a furniture stapler, placing staples every 15-20 cm along the perimeter of the canvas. If it is required to sheathe a metal door, the canvas is covered with a layer of glue, a heater is laid on top and gently pressed.

Working with dermantine

Now let's figure out how to wrap a metal door directly with dermantine. To neatly draw the edges, it is necessary to tuck the dermantine and, with the help of staples, fix its edge from the inside, then we glue the hem, the edge of the material with glue and press it. You need to move gradually in one direction.

The upholstery of the door is made using the simplest tools.

It is much easier to upholster a wooden door with dermantine with your own hands - we tuck the edges of the material and nail it with furniture studs with a wide hat in increments of 10-15 cm.

When doing this work, it is necessary to ensure that the places of fastening of the insulating rollers do not look out from under the bent edge of the leatherette, in addition, it is necessary to step back a few millimeters from the edge so that the new upholstery does not interfere with the free movement of the canvas.

Final design

The last step is the installation of accessories. In the new upholstery, it is necessary to make cuts in the holes slightly smaller than the holes in the canvas, this is very simple, since they are well felt through the leatherette and the substrate.

Reinstall the handle and lock, peephole, hinges. Then you can proceed with the installation of the canvas in the opening, put it on the hinges and you can enjoy the work done.

In order to make the final result look a little more interesting, you can not only sheathe the front door from the inside, but add a few curly elements to its surface. To do this, you can use the remaining furniture nails.

Carefully mark the places for their installation on the surface of the dermantine, after you hammer in the nails, you can tuck a decorative lace under them. Leatherette and soft lining will change: the contours will be pressed through and a peculiar pattern will appear on the surface of the door. Usually rhombuses are made in this way, but other schemes can be used.

The easiest way to work with a wooden door, but with a sufficiently thick and dense layer of the substrate, you can make such a decor on an iron door. To do this, you need to fasten the nails or buttons with a strong thread on the reverse side before sheathing the fabric, connecting the foam rubber and dermantin.

Do-it-yourself door trimming with dermantine is quite simple and interesting, besides, it allows you not only to save on buying a new door, but also gives unique opportunity create your own custom finish. When done correctly, it will look no worse than the industrial version.

Source: http://dvervdome.ru/remont/obivka-dveri-dermantinom.html

Features of door upholstery with MDF panels and dermantine step by step

Overhaul of a worn out metal door is possible in several finishes. In this case, door upholstery is most often chosen, especially if we are talking about economy class models.

Many owners decide to sheathe an iron door on their own. An additional decorative layer will also become a good sound insulation. How the repair will be made depends primarily on the material of the canvas and the exposure of the structure to the environment.

Finishing the front door using MDF

The most common type of finishing of entrance doors is "tuning" with MDF panels. Such material is made of wood fiber and is divided into:

• Painted MDF. It is better not to use it for finishing metal entrance doors, since such canvases do not have high strength properties. With MDF panels of this type, it is better to finish from the inside.
• Laminated panels. Sufficiently durable and resistant to moisture cloth. Smooth surface completely imitates natural wood. It has moderate strength properties, and is resistant to moisture. Such panels can also sheathe the opening.
• Veneered MDF. Such upholstery for metal doors is the highest quality and durable option. The most commonly used veneer is oak or birch. In order not to increase the cost of the canvas, panels of expensive woods are rarely used: beech, mahogany or ash.

When repairing an MDF door with panels, it is necessary to prepare not only the main material, but also a number of additional ones, including for cleaning and removing grease from metal surface.

If you plan to sheathe the opening, then you need to prepare wooden lintels to which MDF strips will be attached.

Of the tools, the following must be prepared in advance: a hammer, a screwdriver, self-tapping screws for attaching the canvas.

Installation work

Before starting the installation, you must be prepared for the fact that after the door trim is replaced, it will become wider. You will need to replace the lock, ties and handles. You may need to adjust the opening a little.

The installation process of MDF panels is divided into several main stages:

• Preliminary surface preparation. Before fixing MDF, a complete cleaning and degreasing is carried out. To improve the quality of adhesion of the web and panels, painting and pasting with a vinyl film is recommended.
• When the preparation process is over, the doors are upholstered with panels. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws in holes with an interval of 10-12 centimeters. So that the caps of the self-tapping screws do not stand out on the surface, a special sweat is performed.
• First, the inner lining is fastened to the screws, and the outer lining is already attached above it. If the doors are opened inside the housing, then the fastening of the panels is carried out in the reverse order.

• The repair with MDF panels is completed by the installation of door fittings. These are locks, handles and more.

When the installation is completed, it remains only to check the performance of the doors and all structural elements.

Having finished with the door with panels, you can sheathe the opening, both from the inside and outside of the room, if the quality of the material allows it.

Features of upholstery with dermantin and the choice of material

• A material such as dermantin is resistant to any temperature changes.
• With the ability to breathe, the material has the ability to repel moisture.
• Resistance to tearing and damage allows dermantine upholstery to serve for a long time.
• Ease of care. After a certain period, only light treatment with special impregnation is required. Any contamination is quite simply removed with soap suds, ammonia or ordinary.
• Relatively low cost.
• Self-constriction with dermantine does not require additional hands.
• This is an environmentally friendly material.
• Excellent indicators of sound and thermal insulation.

When buying leatherette for door upholstery, you should pay attention to the thickness of the fabric that will serve as the basis, as well as the quality of the top coating. Preference should be given to a durable material that slightly springs when stretched.

High-quality dermantin will not have stains from paint, and when held over it with a fingernail, it will not leave marks. You do not need to buy material with a pungent odor, as it does not weather well, and will be felt in the room for a long time.

Buying dermantin costs 15-20 cm more than the door leaf.

Padding with dermantine

The easiest way to haul dermantin will be on the removed doors. The door fittings, the old coating are also removed, and all dirt and dust is cleaned.

Before starting the upholstery of doors with dermantin, sound and heat insulation is carried out. Previously, foam rubber was used, but today it is best to purchase isolon for such purposes, which is denser and better copes with the task. A layer of isolon should cover the canvas of the entrance doors, and a small indent is left on the side of the hinges.

The insulation is glued to the metal door with a special glue, which is applied in a thin layer around the perimeter of the canvas.

You can enhance sound insulation by creating rollers along the edging. To create them, you will need a piece of lining and a strip of leatherette 10-15 cm long. The roller is glued to the canvas.

The next step will be the hauling of the doors with dermantin. For a neat design of the edges, the dermantine is tucked up and, using staples, is fixed from the inside. The bend is smeared with glue and pressed. All actions are performed strictly in one direction.

When the hauling is completed, the fittings are installed. The holes in the upholstery are made a little smaller than in the canvas. Handles and locks are installed. It remains only to install the doors on the hinges and you can enjoy the work.

To make the result more interesting, you can add several curly elements. For such purposes, the remaining door nails are suitable. According to the dermantin, the places for their installation are outlined, and then the nails are hammered. Under them, you can tuck a decorative cord, which will make the door more interesting. In this way, you can make rhombuses and other patterns.

A doorway with such a sheathing is adjusted to the general interior of the room.

Source: https://golddveri.ru/vxodnye-dveri/obivka-dverej.html

How to sheathe a door with dermantine

Entrance doors are, of course, first of all, protection from unexpected guests, as well as from the penetration of cold air into the room, extraneous sounds, and so on. However, its functionality does not end there.

The door leaf is also, one might say, a business card or face of a house or apartment. After all, when visiting someone, the first thing we see is, of course, the front door. That's why appearance door leaf is quite an important aspect.

The most popular and cost-effective method of improving the appearance of this element of the house is its sheathing with materials intended for this purpose. Probably the most used of them is dermantin. How to sheathe a door with dermantin with your own hands will be discussed in this publication.

Advantages of dermantin

This sheathing material has a number of advantages compared to other similar materials:

• High quality at low cost. Modern views of this sheathing material practically do not differ from natural types of skin. However, it is many times cheaper than genuine leather. Therefore, upholstery of the door with dermantine is also economically beneficial;
• This upholstery does not shrink. Its dimensions do not change under the influence of ambient temperatures, and it is not afraid of exposure to moisture, while not losing its qualities;
• It is an excellent heat and sound insulator. The canvas, sheathed with leatherette, retain even more heat and prevent the penetration of extraneous sounds into the room. Therefore, door insulation with dermantin is often used along with sheathing;
• Easy care. To maintain a decent appearance of the door leaf sheathed with this material, it is enough to wipe the surface of the sheathing from time to time with a damp cloth, it is possible using degreasing detergents;
• Excellent decorative properties. Due to the variety of textures and color solutions, covering the front doors with leatherette can give it a completely different, modern and stylish look.

How to choose material

When choosing the material that will be used for thermal insulation and upholstery of the front door with leatherette, you should pay special attention to its base, as well as to the quality of its coating. Most preferred is a dense, slightly springy material when stretched.

The absence of stains from paint indicates the high quality of this material. Good and high quality leatherette is scratch resistant.

When choosing the material that will be used for thermal insulation and upholstery of the front door with leatherette, you should pay special attention to its base, as well as to the quality of its coating.

To check its quality, it is enough to run a fingernail over its surface - on quality material no trace should be left. And finally, about one more important nuance when choosing high-quality leatherette: pay attention to the smell of this material.

Cheap and low-quality, it tends to exude a specific "ambre" with chemical undertones. This can be a very serious problem, especially if the door trim is on the inside.

Required Tools

Before sheathing the doors with dermantin, it is necessary to prepare the necessary tools. This list is quite short:

• Nails with wide (better decorated) hats;
• Sandpaper. Preferably fine-grained;
• A hammer;
• Scissors or sharpened penknife;
• A screwdriver and a Phillips screwdriver (needed to dismantle existing fittings);
• Pliers and pliers. In case, when cleaning the door leaf, you have to remove old nails;
• Construction stapler.

Preparing for sheathing

In order for the upholstery to lie on the door leaf evenly, beautifully, without distortions, the latter must be prepared for the sheathing process. Consider how to sheathe the door step by step:

Having removed the canvas from the hinges, we dismantle all the fittings on it (latches, locks, handles, viewing eye, and so on).

1. We release it from the old skin, if any.
2. If there are any significant irregularities on the canvas, for example, residues old paint, then, before sheathing the door with dermantine with our own hands, we clean it all with fine-grained sandpaper.

After all the preparatory operations done, it is possible, as an additional protection for the door leaf, to degrease its surface with any degreasing agent and cover it with some kind of antiseptic. After that, the canvas should dry a little.

Sheathing process

If it is planned to lay insulation and lining materials, they should be prepared and marked out in advance. Then begins, in fact, do-it-yourself upholstery of doors with dermantine.

1. We measure the height and width of the door leaf.
2. We mark and cut the leatherette according to the measurements obtained, not forgetting to make 10-15 cm allowances for each side.
3. On a pre-prepared door leaf, we evenly spread the marked and cut out sheathing material.
4. On one of the edges of the canvas, we tuck it in and fasten it on the other side of the door with staplers. It will not work to sheathe an iron door with such brackets, therefore such canvases are sheathed using special self-tapping screws.
5. We smooth the upholstery by pulling it over the surface of the door leaf, starting from the fixed edge to the opposite end. After that, we perform step 4 on all other ends. As a result, we get a surface completely covered with dermantin.
6. The final step of the sheathing is the final fixing of the leatherette sheathing with curly nails with wide hats.

At the final step of the sheathing, when the finishing is almost completed, there is an opportunity to give free rein to your own imagination. To decorate a sheathed door with dermantine with your own hands, you can use a variety of decorative corners, slats, curly elements, and so on.

Everything is limited only by the imagination and financial capabilities of the owner. If desired, sheathing the door with your own hands with dermantine and decorating it, you can get your own exclusive design of the "gate" of your house.

Source: https://uteplix.com/obyekty/dver/kak-obshit-dveri-dermantinom.html

How to sheathe a door made of wood, metal - video

The easiest and most popular way to give the door an attractive appearance is to upholster or sheathe it with some material. This can be done both from the premises and outside, you only have to use different materials and different technologies. But in any case, the process is called "door upholstery." About all the subtleties and nuances - below.

How can you beat the door

There are two types of door upholstery - soft and hard. Soft is made of two materials - leatherette (leatherette) and vinyl leather. Leatherette is a woven cotton base coated with a film of nitrocellulose. This material was popular in the 40-60s of the last century, as it was practical and inexpensive.

A little later, vinyl artificial leather appeared. This material is made on different bases - woven and non-woven, stretching and not. Accordingly, artificial leather has different properties. A layer of polyvinyl chloride (PVC or PVC) is applied to the base. It is more durable, chemically neutral.

It has only one significant drawback - it reacts poorly to ultraviolet rays - it loses elasticity, changes color, and may crack. Therefore, the upholstery of doors that go directly to the street is undesirable with vinyl leather.

Leatherette door upholstery: several options

Now about a little confusion in terminology. Dermantine in its pure form, as it was in the last century, has not been produced for quite a long time. Instead, there are different types of vinyl faux leather.

There are also materials coated with other polymers, but not so many. Here they are, according to old memory, and are called dermantin or leatherette (although it is correct, by the way, to say “dermatin” without “n”).

Despite the fact that the material is essentially the same, it has different characteristics and appearance. There are elastic types that stretch well, there are hard ones that are difficult to stretch. In addition, modern artificial leather has many colors and shades, it can have a different surface structure:

• smooth - shiny and matte, there is even a metallic effect;
• porous;
• structured, imitating different types skin (snake, crocodile, etc.).
• under crocodile skin

So the choice of soft upholstery materials for the door is extensive. Apparently, this is the determining factor in the popularity of this type of door upholstery.

There are more hard upholstery materials for doors, although they are used less often:

• MDF panels with a thickness of 8 mm to 18 mm;
• natural wood - fragments, array;
• veneer;
• laminate;
• plastic;
• postforming.

From this list, most often the doors are trimmed with MDF overlays / panels. Such upholstery is especially popular for decorating metal doors, including home-made ones. The panels are made according to the dimensions of a particular door leaf, after which they are installed on glue or mounting foam into fixed starting bars. In this case, it makes sense to make slopes from MDF.

From the catalog - options for MDF overlays, and all this is still in different colors ...

In practice, the door trim is also covered with other materials - laminate, plastic, postforming. Starting profiles are installed along the perimeter of the door, into which fragments of trim trimmed “to size” are inserted. Everything is simple, if you have basic skills in working with a drill, saw and hammer, you can do it yourself in a few hours.

Door upholstery with dermantine

The most popular way to trim a door is with artificial leather. Such a department allows, simultaneously with improving the appearance, to increase the indicators of heat and sound insulation. But this type of door upholstery also has disadvantages - this is the most complex technological process, requiring at least a general idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe procedure.

Upholstery methods

We will talk about the technology of upholstery of doors with dermantine. You can attach it in two ways: with a roller around the perimeter of the door leaf and without it. Depending on this, the order of actions changes (more on that later).

For banners, you can use the same material that upholstered the doors. It is cut into strips 2.5-3 cm wide, attached to the upper nails, and then pulled and fixed by the next nails, a pattern is formed.

To secure the strip, it can be wrapped around a nail that is not completely driven in, which is then hammered. But this option is suitable if the decorative nails have large hats.

If the hats are small, the strips are nailed.

Also, a pattern can be formed using a thin metal flexible cable, but it is more difficult to fix it - it bends worse.

How and how to attach leatherette to the door leaf

If upholstery of a wooden door is necessary, there are usually no questions - they are fastened with staples from a stapler, then nailed along the contour with decorative nails. Only here there are nuances: the staples should be with a wide back (at least 1 mm), and the nails should be wallpaper, with a wide hat. Fastener installation step - from 2.5 to 7 cm, as desired.

More questions arise when it is necessary to cover an iron door with leatherette. There is only one way out - to put on glue. Glue is usually used "Moment", but you can use any other universal glue that can be used to glue both metal and leatherette.

They lubricate the flashing from the inside (a bar that goes along the perimeter of the door and closes the junction of the canvas with the door frame). When fixing vinyl artificial leather, it is cut out with a margin of 15 cm, just for the hem from both sides to the wrong side.

Materials for heat and noise insulation

Most often, foam rubber is used to insulate the door. It is inexpensive, if desired, allows you to form a three-dimensional convex pattern. The most common case is two layers of foam rubber 1 cm each.

This option is not the best - foam rubber has almost no effect on the soundproof properties of the door, and this is sometimes very important.

In addition, after 3-4 years, it loses elasticity, begins to stick together, you have to re-upholster the door, although the appearance of the leatherette is still quite decent.

It is used for heat and sound insulation of cars. Sold in small sheets, the back side is coated with an adhesive, protected by a plastic film. So there will be no problems with installation. Of the minuses - the price and the rather large weight of the material.

To avoid problems, it is worth replacing the loops with more powerful ones.

There are two other materials used in the automotive industry with similar properties. These are "Splen" and "Vibrofilter". All of them are made on an adhesive basis, can be used to improve the characteristics of the door.

How to beat a wooden door

It is more convenient to work on the removed door, but if this is a problem, you can upholster it right on the spot. First you need to remove all fittings from the door leaf - locks, latches, door peephole.

If there is old upholstery, it is carefully removed. If a part of the door needs repair, the damaged fragments are removed and replaced with cut-to-size wooden ones.

Slots can be covered with putty or foamed with mounting foam with a low coefficient of expansion.

With their help, then we will break through the foam rubber and upholstery in the right places (just press with your fingers, all layers will push through). We will pull out ordinary nails, install decorative ones in their place, and with the help of tape we will form a pattern.

The procedure is simple.

with roller

To make the end of the door look no worse than the rest of the plane, we start with it. If you are not going to finish one of the sides, skip this step, just paint the end with paint to match the finish on one or the other side.

If we upholster the doors on both sides, we cut out a strip of material about 10 cm wide. More precisely, look at your door, since the thickness of the canvas is different. The strip should cover the end and go to one and the other side by 3-4 cm.

Lay the strip, fasten along the edge with staples from a stapler (faster and easier) or nails with a large flat head.

To form a roller, a strip of material is also needed. Width - 10-15 cm depending on how wide you want the roller. Next, there are two options:

• Immediately form a roller. To do this, a tourniquet of foam rubber or batting is laid in the middle of the strip, crimped in the middle. In this form, it is fixed around the perimeter of the door. After, from above, foam rubber and material are laid. To form a neat edge, the material is tucked inward.
• The roller is formed immediately, in ready-made attached around the perimeter of the canvas
• The roller is formed later, after the vinyl is laid on the canvas. Here the technology is different - the strip is attached around the perimeter, face down. Then foam rubber and upholstery are attached. The edges are not tucked, just cut to size. After the end, the strip is wrapped on the front side (you can put a strip of foam rubber into it), folded over and fastened with wallpaper nails.
• The strip for the roller is fixed in advance, it itself is formed after the upholstery is fixed

The difference between these two methods is only in appearance: in the first case, the nails are nailed along the edge of the upholstery, in the second - along the edge of the cushion. Choose whichever you like best. For example, it seems to me that the first option (on the right) looks better - more neat. But this is just a personal opinion.

What is this roller for? In order to cover possible gaps between the canvas and the jamb. Thus, we avoid the appearance of drafts and reduce heat loss.

But you can make a roller only if the doors are upholstered from the opening side (the doors open into the apartment, so we upholster them from the inside). If, on the other hand, this focus does not pass, it will not close.

Then you have to do without a roller.

without roller

In this case, everything is simple: the canvas is evenly tucked up, fixed with nails or staples - as it suits you best.

door upholstery process

To reduce the noise level, the doors are upholstered with one layer of sound insulation and one layer of foam rubber. The option with preliminary production of the roller is chosen. First, they removed the old fittings, cut in a new lock. The lining and handle were removed, the internal parts remained in place. Let's move on to the door trim.

We immediately form a roller - we put narrow foam rubber in a strip of dermantine, fasten it along the perimeter of the door. It is more convenient to do this with staples from a stapler.

The next step is to fix the soundproofing. It is on an adhesive basis, so there are no problems - they cut it to size, carefully removing the film and glued it. When gluing, we try to squeeze out all the air, for this we tear off the film gradually, ironing the material from edge to edge.

We glue soundproofing

We lay and fix the foam rubber

The foam rubber is cut out with a small margin, after installation, the excess is cut off.

We tuck the upper edge by 2-3 cm, we begin to fasten from the upper left corner. There we hammer in the first nail, then we straighten the material and nail the second one at the top right. Then, in increments of 3-4 cm, we nail the upholstery from one edge to the other with finishing nails.

We fasten from the side of the loops, tucking the edge inward. Straighten evenly so that there are no creases at the top.

We nail from the side of the loops

Install locks and hardware

How to upholster metal doors

The front part of metal doors is rarely upholstered - it already has a very attractive appearance. Suffer more often inner part. That's what we'll talk about.

On the inside of the iron door there is a frame. In some models it is metal, in others it is wooden. Thermal insulation material is laid between the slats of the frame. It can be foam or mineral wool boards. They are attached to mounting foam, which has a very small coefficient of expansion (mandatory!). From above, everything is closed with a sheet of plywood or OSB.

This is the standard option. If the planks are wooden, everything is fine, there are no problems - the doors will not freeze through. But if the frame inside the door is metal, in good frosts everything will freeze through - through cold bridges, which are metal ribs.

The remaining processes for upholstery of a metal door are very similar to those described above. All the difference is in the method of fixation: the upholstery is glued to a suitable high-quality glue. The excess is immediately cut off at the junction using a sharp wallpaper knife.

This is where the classic mistake was made - there is no layer that cuts off the bridges of cold. Everything else is shown well.

How to sheathe a door - choose the material and do the work yourself

Sooner or later there comes a moment when the front door loses its presentable appearance during operation. Of course, you can replace it with a new one, but if the structure itself is still strong and reliable, it is better to get by with cosmetic repairs, especially since covering the door with a finishing material will cost much less.

If you follow the technology, it will not be difficult to sheathe the doors yourself. Consider the features of finishing wooden and metal doors, as well as the nuances of choosing materials for them.

Choosing a material

The range of finishing materials for doors is large and they all have their pros and cons. In order not to get confused and choose the right one, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the brief characteristics of the most popular of them.

Vinyl leather

This material is one of the varieties of artificial leather. It is a film applied on top of a fibrous web. The basis for vinyl artificial leather can be paper, knitwear or other fabric, which is usually impregnated with special polymer compounds to increase strength.

The material can have different colors and textures, in addition, it has an affordable price and is practical to use. Therefore, vinyl leather sheathing is a good replacement for natural, very expensive material.

clapboard

Lining - these are slats made of wood, MDF or plastic, equipped with special grooves that make it easy to assemble them into a single canvas. It is suitable for finishing both wooden and metal structures, however, it is much more difficult to mount it on the latter.

For the outer part of the door, it is preferable to use a material resistant to external influences, for example, larch.

But keep in mind that such panels can fade in the sun, so upholstery of doors with plastic clapboard will be unprofitable if they are often exposed to direct sunlight.

Faux leather

Leatherette is an artificial material that mimics the structure of natural leather. In addition to its attractive appearance, it has other advantages:

• strength;
• profitability;
• simple care.

The disadvantage is sensitivity to temperature extremes and high humidity, which leads to cracking and thus reduces the life of the coating.

Leatherette

The name of this material comes from the Greek word "derma", which means skin. In construction terminology, dermatin is usually called leather imitation. Surely many have heard of him. But why is this material so popular?

The prevalence of leatherette for various finishing works is explained by its positive qualities, such as:

• Affordable price. Although you need to understand, Leatherette is a popular material for sheathing, which is too cheap material, most likely will not be of high quality, so it is better to choose trusted manufacturers, even if the cost of their products is slightly higher.
• Presentable appearance and variety of shades.
• High strength and wear resistance.
• Noise isolation properties.
• Preservation of heat in the house.
• Easy care (the material is well cleaned and is not afraid of moisture).

Also, leatherette is easy to process and stack, which allows you to work even without special skills. An additional plus of this coating is vapor permeability, which means that the door under the skin will be able to "breathe", which means that the wood under it will not become damp and moldy.

Leather

The door, upholstered in genuine leather, looks luxurious and emphasizes the viability of the owners, which is appreciated in some circles of society. In favor of the leather coating is also evidenced by:

• material durability;
• good sound insulation;
• additional protection against heat leakage.

But the price of such upholstery will be several times higher than that of various substitutes. Another nuance to consider is the need for careful skin care using special means to maintain its elasticity.

PVC film

Polyvinyl chloride film, which usually has a self-adhesive backing, is very practical and inexpensive material. The top layer of this coating can imitate various textures: stone, wood, velor, metal, etc. Such a film is sold in rolls and is a good way to update the surface of a metal or plastic door. Its main advantages:

• undemanding to care;
• small price;
• simple installation;
• moisture resistance;
• no damage during installation on the glued surface.

True, there are several disadvantages - the inability to hide serious defects in the door leaf and a relatively short service life.

The listed materials are the most commonly used for upholstery and among them there is sure to be a solution suitable for your home.

Of course, the final choice depends on your preferences, financial capabilities, the condition of the door and the material from which it is made.

Given that correct installation coatings are no less important than the right material, below we will consider several ways of sheathing metal and wooden doors using the example of lining and leatherette.

Leather upholstery

So, how to sheathe the door with leatherette with your own hands? The process has some differences for wooden and metal structures, however, the preparation stage and the necessary tools in both cases are almost identical.

Upholstery preparation

To independently carry out the installation of the coating, you will need the following tools:

• sharp stationery knife and large scissors;
• industrial stapler;
• a hammer;
• pliers;
• screwdriver;
• brush.

Before starting work, you will need to dismantle all fittings from the door (peephole, handles, lock). Then the structure is removed from the hinges and inspected for any defects, if any, they must be eliminated.

Next, the leatherette should be cut to the size of the door, making an allowance of 10-15 cm on all sides. In addition, you can not do without cushioning material, which will give the upholstery the desired volume. If the door is not located inside the dressing room, but goes outside, then it is advisable to take care of its insulation. This function can be performed by the following materials:

• isolon tape - has a long service life (about 70 years), is effective, but quite expensive;
• foam rubber - can last about 15 years and has average heat retention;
• batting - the service life is 30 years, it has good performance, but somewhat makes the door structure heavier.

Wooden door upholstery

The upholstery process begins with laying a heater cut to the size of the structure on the prepared door leaf. The material must be fixed with a construction stapler or nails; before that, it is worth lubricating the surface of the door with glue for a stronger fixation.

The upholstery fabric is laid in such a way that the overlap on all sides is the same. Then the edges are folded inward, monitoring the uniformity of the fold of the fabric and its tension.

After the fabric is securely fastened, you can give the coating a pattern using decorative tape and upholstery nails. Ready-made patterns of the pattern are shown below, but you can also invent something new, focusing on your taste and imagination.

Upholstery of a metal door

The upholstery of a metal door is made a little differently, but this process is even simpler than in the case of a tree. After all, you don’t have to nail leatherette to the metal, and it is this part of the work that is the most time-consuming.

After preparing the canvas, which is identical to that described above, the door is removed from the hinges and placed in a horizontal position.

The insulation is attached to the metal with glue, trying to lay it correctly the first time in order to avoid further displacements.

Then, leatherette itself (part of the material with an overlap) is attached to the ends of the door, smeared with glue. It is better to start from the top, then fix the material from the side of the hinges and the lock, and complete the installation with the bottom end. In this case, it is important to avoid the occurrence of folds and distortions.

After the glue dries, use a sharp clerical knife to remove excess material and install the fittings back.

This completes the work, and your front door not only looks updated, but also provides additional heat retention in the house.

Clapboard door lining

Another way to inexpensively and tastefully update the door structure is to make doors from lining with your own hands.

Where to start? For wooden panels, the following advice is relevant: if the finishing material you have stored outside the house, but will be used for interior cladding, then a few hours before the start of work, it is worth bringing it inside the room in which the decoration is planned. This will allow the wood to adapt to the humidity and temperature.

Wooden door

For sheathing a wooden door, you will need the following materials and tools:

• panels of the selected material;
• measuring instruments (tape measure, level);
• pencil;
• suitable cutting tool;
• screwdriver;
• planer and sandpaper;
• screws or nails;
• varnish and brushes.

Preparatory work is similar to that performed when sheathing leatherette. The door leaf will also need to be dismantled, cleaned and removed fittings. Then you need to decide on the direction of the skin - it will be horizontal or vertical.

The lining begins to be mounted from the lower edge of the door, checking the accuracy of its location with a level. It is better to fasten the material with special finishing nails, which will stand out less against the background of the coating, but self-tapping screws can also be used.

During installation, the panels are fixed closely, inserting each subsequent one into the connector of the previous one, and the sides are closed with special corners. After the completion of the main work, the lining can be varnished. Then, after waiting for it to dry completely, fittings are installed on the door, and the structure itself is returned to its place.

Metal door with clapboard trim

Metal doors sheathed with clapboard, in view of the strength of the metal, will be a little more difficult to make. To fix the panels, you will have to build wooden frame attached to the door structure, and already mount the finishing material on it.

To make a frame you need:

• bars or slats made of wood;
• drill and screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws;
• saw;
• pencil and tape measure.

The slats need to be adjusted to the dimensions of the door (length and width). Then drill holes in them for the diameter of the self-tapping screws, attach the components of the frame to the surface of the door and through these holes put marks on the metal. In the intended places, the metal structure will also need to be drilled.

Further, the frame elements are attached to the door leaf with self-tapping screws. The resulting design can perform another function - to serve as the basis for laying insulation. If you want to reduce heat loss, the selected heat-insulating material is placed between the frame rails.

The next stage of work is finishing. The panels are mounted in the same way as described for a wooden door and using similar materials.

Clapboard panels are a good solution for finishing and simultaneously insulating the door

Decorating a door is a fascinating and creative process, but a responsible one.

A serious approach and a little training before finishing work will allow you to turn your ideas into reality, and the result will be a reason for pride.

metal door trim

Any front door is calling card of your house, and all the tenants of the apartment certainly want the entrance to the dwelling, from the side, to seem solid and beautiful.

Because it often fully characterizes the owner of the apartment. With a wooden door, everything is very simple and easy - after installing it, you will need to slightly treat the surface with stain or varnish.

Not only an angry dog, but also an iron door will help you protect your home from unfamiliar guests.

All entrance doors, most often, are purchased with a ready-made finish. But the door trim is so primitive and easy to perform, this is especially noticeable on inexpensive types front doors that most buyers will immediately want to remake it in their own way.

For these purposes, it is necessary to use a variety of materials, which are divided into groups according to the type of installation and methods of application.

MDF

MDF metal door sheathing is the most common and well-known way of processing the door leaf. This wood fiber material can be divided into the following types:

1. colored.
2. veneered.
3. laminated.

Painted MDF - this type of material, in the case of our canvas, it is advisable not to use, because its painted surface lacks high strength properties. It is best used for indoor work.

Laminated MDF panels are moderately moisture resistant and have a large margin of safety. The first layer of the panel consists of PVC and has an excellent decorative property: it has a smooth surface and a variety of textures, imitating natural wood.

Sheathing metal MDF doors with overlays is what is really used as upholstery for the door leaf.

Very rarely, veneer from expensive tree species is used - ash, beech or mahogany. Accordingly, the cost of canvas with MDF increases.

Laminate

Also, the sheathing of metal doors is upholstered with a laminate, which is used, as a rule, as a floor covering. It differs slightly in composition from laminated MDF, but it has a relatively large margin of safety.

As a basis for a laminate, a fibreboard with a significant density is used. It is bonded together with paper layers, and treated with melamine or acrylic resin, resulting in a material that resembles a "layer cake" in shape.

Since the laminate is not affected by ultraviolet rays, fluctuations temperature regime and high humidity, then it is easy for them to beat not only the entrance to the housing, but also the entrance to the cottage, which is located on the street.

powder coating

Sheathing of metal doors with powder coating is made in a special way, in the conditions of the factory.

This coating method is the highest quality, while applying special technology painting powder paint on the surface of the door leaf, which is applied using the electrostatic spraying method, and then the metal is baked in an industrial oven at high temperature.

Spraying with a special powder is not subject to mechanical stress, has dielectric and antistatic characteristics.

A huge selection of colors will help update the look of your door and pick up any imitation - leather, granite or gold.

Coating with such paint is the most expensive type of finish. If you wish to decorate a metal sheet with forged elements, then the price will directly consist of the complexity of making such elements.

Sheathing of metal fabric clapboard

Sheathing of a metal sheet is usually sheathed with a wooden lining.

This type of boards is made from various types of wood, for this reason, the consumer will be able to choose and purchase really high-quality and relatively inexpensive finishing material.

If you sheathe a door using lining, then here you can become a real designer. Laths can be distributed at different angles, as well as decorative strips, carved, burned out, or simply painted.

You already have a question: “How to sheathe a metal door with a wooden clapboard?”. After all, a tree cannot be nailed to a metal surface.

For the manufacture of a noise-suppressing layer, it is recommended to fill the cavity inside the structure with a heater.

We have shared with you the most famous upholstery methods. There are other types, these are: vinyl, leatherette and leather.

In the 90s, the sheathing of a metal door with dermantine was very popular among the people. This type of upholstery is the most economical, but it has also proven to be the most impractical.

The most expensive finish of the door leaf is considered to be the finish of solid oak. This method is uneconomical, due to the fact that this finishing technology can only be applied in production - it is quite difficult to work with this tree at home.

How to attach cladding panels?

The solution to this issue depends entirely on the condition of the canvas itself and right choice upholstery material and method.

• If the cladding is made of MDF or laminate, then these panels must be attached with metal glue:
• For good adhesion of materials, it will be necessary to prime the surface of the door leaf. This is a necessary measure; without it, the connection of metal and panels may be short-lived.
• Liquid nails can be used to attach trim parts. For durable fastening of the decorative layer, it can be fixed using metal corners.
• The lining can also be fixed in the same way. But panels made of natural wood are much heavier in weight than a panel made of MDF, so if it is nailed, then its fixation will be much stronger.
• In other cases, fastening with glue is much more convenient and practical, since nails can only spoil the cladding.

As you have already seen, replacing the skin is not such a difficult job that a beginner and a professional can handle.

And finally, the most important thing - slopes

If you decide to install the door yourself, or improve the appearance of the old one, then this work cannot be completed if the slopes are not plastered correctly. A slope is such a part of the wall structure that frames the door leaf around the entire perimeter.

When dismantling the door leaf, the slopes may have a defect, both cosmetic and structural. Their finishing is carried out immediately after the installation of your door, while the assembly seam is strengthened. There are several finishing options available. A mini-instruction, which indicates the methods by which the slope is finished, is given below in the article:

• The simplest and most economical option is surface plastering. To do this, you need a special tool - a template.
• A template will be needed so that the angles at the slopes are accurate and even.
• First of all, the slope is plastered from above, and then the sides. When the work is finished, it will take time for the plaster to dry completely, and after that you can walk on its surface with sandpaper. And finally, cover it with a primer - and then paint it, or stick wallpaper.
• If there is no desire to deal with plaster, then you can finish the slopes with sheets of plastic or use drywall.

The choice of material for them is selected based on the type of door leaf finish or the nature of the adjoining wall to it.

• If we talk about the side of the slope that goes to the entrance, then we will need to either plaster the slope, or use drywall, and then paint it with a water-based emulsion. Plastic slopes can be used in the decoration of those parts that are located in the apartment itself or the hallway.
• In order for the slopes to look harmonious after the installation of the door leaf, it is necessary to use the materials with which you finished it. Laminate and MDF panels, in their structure, resemble the texture of wood, in this case, you can trim the slopes using these materials, after selecting the material by color.
• To make the slopes of wood on your canvas look elegant, you need to remember about mounting seams. They will need to be sealed with foam, and cut off its excess.
• At the very beginning, the upper slope is set. It must be fixed with self-tapping screws or glued - the caps of the self-tapping screws will need to be hidden under decorative caps. The seams at the slopes are treated with transparent silicone sealant and then install plastic corners or trim.

In this article, we shared with you how easy it is to beat your own front door and let it gain a second life. Repairing metal door trim is not the worst thing to do in your apartment.

Upholstery of metal doors - a detailed analysis of the most popular options

Suppose you decide to do steel door do it yourself or want to buy it, but the upholstery of metal doors in the store leaves much to be desired. Don’t be discouraged, it’s not so difficult to sheathe a metal door yourself, and then we will tell you in detail how to sheathe the front door and the slopes to it on both sides, with all the pros and cons of the options that exist today.

The upholstery of the entrance metal door speaks of the status of the owner of the house.

How are the doors trimmed now?

First of all, remember that the sheathing of a metal door from the outside and decorative trim from the inside it's not the same at all. Even if visually the materials look the same, their characteristics or at least the level of processing are completely different.

After all, do not forget, we are talking about entrance doors, where the outer lining is regularly watered with rain, freezes and roasts in the sun, and from the inside, the finishing of metal doors is in the comfortable conditions of a residential building. By the way, at this address you can learn about the insulation of iron doors with your own hands.

Laminate

Finishing metal doors with laminate flooring has long ceased to be a curiosity. After all, the flooring was originally designed for quite serious loads:

Finishing an iron door with laminate flooring is a good and inexpensive option.

• It will not be difficult to wash an iron door finished with a whitewash laminate, to clean it from dirt or footprints, because this coating is subjected to even greater tests on the floor;
• Any laminate can easily withstand the claws of pets, even a large dog is not able to scratch such a coating;
• A big plus in terms of design is the same finish of the floor, slopes and door leaf;
• The thickness of the planks ranges from 6 to 12 mm, the weight of the cladding is also not large, which is an additional plus when choosing;
• The planks are connected according to the thorn-groove principle, and after splicing they form a smooth monolithic surface, in which even the seams are palpable with difficulty;
• To fix it on the canvas, it is enough to clean and prime the steel sheet, after which you can safely glue the planks, for example, on liquid nails;
• If the doors are not sheathed from the inside with a solid steel sheet, then the laminate planks are attached to the bars of the inner crate, and in order to hide the hard-hitting cut and self-tapping screws, a plastic U-shaped profile is glued along the edge.

Finishing the door from the inside with a floor laminate for an amateur is quite realistic.

Now let's move on to the "pitfalls" there are also enough of them here. Let's begin with floor laminate, no matter how expensive and elegant it is, it was originally created as an internal coating, which means that it is not designed for sudden changes in temperature, frost and excessive humidity.

Accordingly, they can only finish the doors from the inside. Exterior decoration is possible only in multi-storey buildings with relatively warm entrances.

If you decide to opt for a laminate, then keep in mind: this material is divided into 7 classes. If the marking starts with 2, then this material is made for apartments and private houses (21,22,23). Everything that starts with a three (31,32,33,34) is designed for commercial organizations, offices and shopping centers.

The classification of floor laminate depends on the level of wear resistance.

When buying, you do not need to listen to the persuasions of the consultant. The fact is that visually grades 21 and 34 may not differ in any way, and if you are not going to dance on your doors or wash them with a fire hose, then take the twenty-first grade, and the thinnest strips (6 mm), the price will please you.

MDF panels

MDF panels are solid large door linings; professionals call these panels cards. Now the upholstery of a metal door with such cards occupies almost half of the market.

Finishing metal entrance doors with MDF panels is now considered the most popular.

The material itself is made from wood dust and, according to the manufacturers, does not contain any harmful additives.

Wood dust is poured into molds, pressed and fried under high pressure, as a result, natural glue lignin is released from it, which turns the pressed mass into a monolithic sheet.

Before sheathing the canvas, you need to decide which panel you want to see. Sheathing the entrance metal door can be pure MDF, laminated or veneered.

To be honest, clean MDF sheets are not suitable for ennobling the door leaf. The top layer of the sheet is practically not protected, its appearance is rather mediocre and the maximum that can be done is to paint it with something, while you will not achieve special beauty.

The most common is laminated MDF, such cards have quite a few advantages:

• The laminated MDF card is resistant to fading;
• Finishing a metal door with your own hands will not be difficult for you, and both exterior and interior decoration are equally simple;
• For finishing work you need a minimum of tools. If you veneer only the door leaf, without slopes, then a drill and a screwdriver are enough;
• Washing an MDF card from stains and other troubles is as easy as a floor laminate;
• The door lining does not require additional adjustment and refinement, the product is immediately sold with fixed dimensions according to door standards. If your canvas is not standard, then you can use several small cards or order a panel according to your size;
• In serial factory doors, MDF panels are inserted into special grooves, so before you disassemble the old door, see if you have such grooves. The principle is simple, the side clip is removed, after which the old panel is moved to the side and pulled out, and the new one is inserted into its place.

Decor options for MDF door cards. The result of an incorrect choice of MDF cards.

In the elite sector, MDF panels covered with natural wood veneer are used to finish the entrance doors. Veneer is a thin slice of wood, respectively, if pasted over with it MDF panel, then it will not differ in any way from a natural board.

It turns out that for reasonable money you will make yourself elite wooden doors, for example, from oak. Of course, a veneered card is not cheap, but compared to a natural array, the difference will be at least 2 times.

Veneered MDF panels are practically no different from natural wood.

Most European companies produce cards covered with so-called eco veneer. If you do not go into details and brush off advertising tinsel, then eco veneer is just high-quality plastic, which contains a certain percentage of wood.

About the same story with multi-veneer, but it can be seen with the naked eye. The drawing there is quite abstract, cubes, waves, mugs and a lot of other options, but this is natural wood, only pressed, glued and cut, here it’s already an amateur.

Leather upholstery

For many people, quilted door trim is associated with Soviet design. Indeed, if you take cheap leatherette and upholster the doors with it, then the view will not be the best, but do not rush to discard this option, with a reasonable approach, quilted upholstery can look luxurious.

Now you will not find doors trimmed with natural soft leather because it is very expensive. For sheathing, a new material called eco-leather is used, this material is a synthetic coating that visually and to the touch is no different from real leather.

In addition to a solid appearance, quilted lining has 2 tangible advantages: firstly, it is additional insulation, and secondly, serious sound insulation. For indoor cats and dogs, though, quilted upholstery is first in line for tearing.

The carriage coupler belongs to the elite finishing of the entrance doors.

The easiest way is to take eco-leather and sheathe a sheet of plywood with it, and use foam rubber as a filler. If you want to get a really luxurious door, then there is a carriage coupler for this, it is more difficult to make it, but the result is worth it.

If you decide to buy soft panels for doors, then keep in mind: high-quality upholstery is made from solid canvas. If you are offered a quilted panel sewn from pieces, then know that this is a cheap low-quality product.

Powder coating

Powder coating doors can not be done at home with your own hands. This is a high-tech process, the metal is cleaned, processed and a special paint is applied, after which the door is “roasted” in ovens, as a result, the surface acquires a unique protection.

A fine-grained film forms on the metal surface, which is easy to clean and reliably protects doors from corrosion. Manufacturers claim that such lining cannot be scratched, we do not know if these assurances are true, but powder paint withstands animal claws without problems.

Hammer paint is a good alternative to powder coating.

Hammer paint can be a good alternative to powder coating, you can paint doors with your own hands and at the same time the look will be no worse than that of powder coating. At "this address" you will learn how to correctly disassemble doors, how to wash metal from rust, and most importantly, how to paint the doors yourself.

clapboard

Lining for various types of finishes has been used for about 100 years and despite such an advanced age, it is still in the lead. Neat wooden planks are connected using tongue and groove technology. There are quite a few advantages to lining.

• Clapboard can be used for both exterior and interior door trim, though for exterior finish the tree will have to be treated with a complex primer and varnished for outdoor use;
• The material is 100% environmentally friendly;
• Natural wood will never go out of fashion; with proper care, such doors will always look fresh and original;
• The lining installation technology is quite simple and accessible to any home master, we can assure you that even if you have never dealt with lining, during the day you will trim your front door with it;
• The slats can be combined as you like, as a result your door will have an original pattern.

trimming iron doors clapboard novice craftsmen often do not know how to fix the slats on the metal. So from the inside, the lining is hemmed to a pre-fixed wooden crate, which in turn is attached to the stiffeners and the inner frame of the doors.

The outer cladding is prepared separately, first the lining is screwed with small screws to the plywood sheet, and then this shield is attached to the metal sheet. In order to securely fasten the facade shield, it will be necessary to drill about a dozen holes in the metal sheet and fasten it with self-tapping screws from the inside.

By the way, lining is not only wooden, now they produce many options plastic lining. Theoretically, it is possible to sheathe doors with plastic, but not everyone likes such a lining, plus the strength of the plastic is not high.

A few words about finishing slopes

Slopes are called the part of the wall that frames the doors or windows, respectively, until the slopes are made, the door lining cannot be considered finished. In this case, experts identify 4 running options for facing slopes.

1. Plastering is considered the most reliable and durable. Such a slope will stand for more than a dozen years, but plastering work not everyone can do it, plus it's a rather messy process;
2. No less reliable is the sheathing of slopes with drywall. GKL sheets can be either mounted on a crate or glued to a special building mixture, but after installation, drywall must be puttied;
3. Another popular finish door slopes is mounting on the crate. Everything is simple, the crate is stuffed on the slope, and already on the crate you can fasten everything you see fit - plastic, MDF, GKL, plywood, lining, etc.
4. But the most popular option now is telescopic slopes made of MDF. They are a kind of constructor. Depending on the thickness of the wall, the width of the additional plank is selected and the entire structure is installed in a couple of hours, the only problem is that telescopic slopes are much more expensive than the others.

The choice of upholstery for metal doors is a responsible matter, because it largely indicates the status of the owner. When making a decision, carefully weigh all the pros and especially the cons of the materials described above and let your door be the most beautiful in the area.

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The front door not only protects the house from burglary, but also keeps it cozy and warm. Upholstery of the front door will help increase its functionality, and in some cases even avoid replacement (if there are only cosmetic defects).

The modern construction market offers a lot of variations of upholstery materials of different prices: leatherette, vinyl leather, genuine leather, special fabric. The choice depends not only on the budget, but also on the type of door leaf, its quality, and the preferences of the owner.

Benefits of front door upholstery

1. Increasing the level of sound insulation, moisture resistance.
2. Improves an esthetic look, does imperceptible defects.
3. Keeps the heat in the room.
4. Protects steel sheet from corrosion, and wood from the effects of temperature changes.

But it is also important to take into account that the upholstery is sensitive to sudden changes in temperature and is practically unsuitable for restoration after mechanical damage.

How to upholster a wooden door

Upholstery will extend the life of the wood, prevent it from drying out. In the process of work, materials such as:

• dermantin;
• vinyl leather (, beautiful appearance);
• felt;
• plastic-foam;
• bologna fabric

When choosing a material, take into account in which direction. The way of working with sealing rollers and fixing the upholstery boards depends on this:

• opens outward (the rollers are fixed to the ends of the door frame);
• opens inwards (rollers are attached to the door frame).

To make the upholstery process quick and convenient, the master needs to prepare in advance: material, insulation (batting, synthetic winterizer, isolon, foam rubber at least 2 cm thick), repair tools (special nails, tape measure, scissors, hammer, screwdriver, stapler). For 1 m² of area, you will need 50 g of construction nails and 75 g of decorative ones.

Upholstery kit soundproofing, but also additionally insulate the room.

Upholstery: work algorithm

1. Measuring the door leaf, preparing it and segments to mask the edges. Measurements are taken with a tape measure. To create blanks from the material, two strips are cut equal to the width of the door and one equal to the length. The width in both versions is 14 cm. Then the canvas is cut along the perimeter 10 cm larger than the measurements of the door. It must be removed from the hinges and the fittings dismantled.
2. Removal of old material, surface cleaning (with special washes, spatula).
3. A heater is placed on the door leaf, the upholstery material is fixed with decorative nails, a special band for the edges. First, the side segments are fixed with nails with an edge (wrong side out). The lower part is nailed no less than 2 cm from the edge so that the material does not rub off too quickly. Each step of the sheathing of the canvas is 10 cm.
4. To provide additional noise and heat insulation, in addition to standard upholstery, it is recommended to install a sealing roller around the perimeter of the box, an additional layer of foam rubber, padding polyester on both sides. Sealing rollers are placed on the side segments of the material, the edges are tightly wrapped inside. On the edge of the fold they come with decorative nails. If the product opens inward, the rollers are attached to the ends of the door frame.
5. They make holes for locks, eyes, bend the edges and fasten them with nails.
6. The product is hung on loops.

The upholstery is stretched so that there are no folds or wrinkles. To do this, the material is fixed with a nail, first from above, then from below, carefully straightening, and only then the side part is fixed.

For decorative design, a silk cord, wire is used, special nails are stuffed in the form of a pattern.

If plastic (fabric) is used, then another technology is used. The main tool in the process of upholstery with this material is rectangular profile strips with a special slot. A decorative baguette frame is inserted into it and its coals are sawn off at 45 °. The frame is fixed with nails (indentation 7-10 cm), insulation is placed and covered with plastic, which is fixed with nails at a step of 4 mm.

Metal front door upholstery: process specifics

The upholstery is made using laminated fiberboard (for interior decoration), vinyl leather, leatherette.

For work you will need:

• upholstery;
• plywood;
• stapler, scissors;
• insulation (the thickness should be 10 cm more than that of the door leaf);
• plywood;
• liquid Nails.

Sequence of steps

1. First you need to remove the fittings, for convenience, the door leaf is placed horizontally on a hard, flat surface.
2. Plywood blanks are attached to the surface using epoxy glue. Complete drying is expected for at least a day.
3. To prepare the fasteners for the sealing rollers, first cut blanks (10 cm wide and length according to the door parameters) from the selected material. They are folded in half, fixed with nails or a stapler at a step of 10-15 cm.
4. To upholster the door and prevent heat loss, foam rubber is placed on the canvas, 2 layers of batting (attached with liquid nails).
5. The upholstery material is cut with a margin of 3 cm on each side, fixed above the insulation, first from above, and then from below with furniture nails.
6. Fix the edges of the sealing roller filled with batting.

Upholstery without interior trim requires additional manipulation. The workpiece is cut out from a solid fiberboard, holes are made for the peephole, a lock and placed on the insulation blocks. The panel is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

The upholstery is economically beneficial and in terms of the functionality of the door (the material will last a long period of time, save the room from noise and cold, beautifully decorate the canvas).

If the product is one-piece, and the sheets of the inner and outer skin are welded to the frame, then the foam rubber is fixed on the sheet of the inner skin. A frame of slats is attached to it with screws, between which foam rubber or batting is placed, covered with a fiberboard panel. It should be borne in mind that with this upholstery method, the thickness of the fabric will increase significantly.

Dermantin is recommended primarily to those who want to increase the level of heat in the house, to ensure good sound insulation. It is better to use its modern analogue - vinyl leather. It has properties that are useful in terms of functionality and care: it is not afraid of frost, practically does not fade, has an elastic and at the same time strong texture, and high wear resistance. There are many models and colors of this upholstery material on the market. But the owner must also remember about the shortcomings: sensitivity to mechanical damage, temperature change.

Door upholstery cost

Replacing the upholstery of a metal door costs about 1500 rubles. for one side, wooden - about the same. The material is paid and purchased separately. The cost of working with doors of a non-standard size (not in the format of 200 by 80 cm) must be specified individually. Finishing with laminated panels is estimated at an order of magnitude more expensive - 4500 rubles.

The price largely depends on the materials used, the range of additional work, adjusting the locks, adjusting the doors). For example, the average cost of a standard set: dark-colored leatherette, synthetic winterizer or foam rubber, decorative nails, glue is 1000 rubles, and the departure of the master is 500-800 rubles. On average, he spends 2-4 hours at work. But on sale there are ready-made kits for upholstery of entrance doors with your own hands from 200 rubles. Upholstery of doors with leather will not only decorate them, but also allow you to keep the room warm and quiet.

It is important to remember that upholstery of entrance doors with leatherette, for example, in most firms, provides only for fixing the material itself. And the installation of a sealing, decorative roller, insulation with an additional layer of foam rubber, batting, isolon, vibration isolation must be paid separately (from 200 to 1500 rubles, depending on the type of work, materials used).

In addition, they require a fee for the preliminary departure of the master to measure and select the material, dismantle the old coating, install and remove locks. It is much more profitable to change the upholstery of the front door on your own, especially since this process is not very complicated.

Underwater rocks

1. When pulling the material, you need to carefully monitor that it is fixed correctly, without wrinkles and folds. If there is no experience in this kind of work, you can spoil the material or carry out this stage of poor quality.
2. It is not necessary to insulate with materials popular among the people (paper, felt). They do not retain heat well and contribute to the appearance of pests.
3. Cutouts under the eye, the lock should be smaller than the fittings.
4. When working with the upholstery of a metal product, it is important to ensure that the material of the inner and outer upholstery does not overlap at the gluing points. Otherwise, the fastener will be of poor quality.
5. It is better not to use rubber gaskets for sealing joints, this will interfere with the quality closing of the door.

Upholstering the front door is much cheaper and easier than replacing it, and the alternative in the form of installing decorative MFD panels is not cheap (about 3500 without a specialist leaving for measurement). Another plus of this design is warming and positive changes in the interior.

Do-it-yourself upholstery of doors will save money and be sure of the quality of the work performed.

The entrance door group is now mostly made of metal, so they primarily perform a security function. But budget options have some drawbacks. These include poor heat and noise insulation. The easiest and most affordable way to compensate for these shortcomings is to upholster metal doors with dermantine. Before ready-made entrance groups appeared on the market, they were often ordered individually and made from sheet steel.

An example of upholstery of metal doors with leatherette

They were distinguished by a sufficient degree of reliability, but did not have a very presentable appearance, therefore they required additional finishing different materials.
Finishing options were:

1. The most common is the upholstery of a metal door with dermantine.
2. Wooden overlays.
3. We also used MDF panels and laminated canvas.

Finishing the front door with leatherette, as a more expensive option with natural leather, was the most popular.

Existing leatherette colors

This is due not only to the aesthetic appeal that the door acquired after finishing. entrance group but also practicality. Increased sound absorption, thermal insulation. The most used material to this day is vinyl leather (leatherette). If earlier its range was not too wide, now you can choose a finish that will satisfy every taste. They will fit into diverse interiors.

An example of leatherette door trim

From the side of the street it is finished, for example, with wooden slips, MDF slips, and the inner side of the canvas is upholstered and insulated with leatherette. This type of design is more suitable for private houses. In apartment buildings, both sides of the canvas are more often covered with leatherette. Exterior finish can be made in one color, vinyl leather texture, the interior is decorated with a different type of material, more suitable for this interior.


The upholstery of metal doors is somewhat different from the upholstery of a wooden box, but in general the same technique is used.

How to sheathe a door with dermantine with your own hands

Do not rush to purchase a kit for sheathing fabrics in a building supermarket. Ready-made kits may have different configurations. It is necessary to decide not only on the type of vinyl leather, but also on the purpose of finishing. Usually, in addition to the decorative effect, the door is additionally insulated and soundproofed.

Options for sheathing metal doors with leatherette

What materials and what are they used for?

1. Iron sheathing has such a drawback as increased vibration, this primarily applies to thin steel sheets. To compensate for this flaw, vibration filters are installed. These are mastic-bitumen gaskets that neutralize vibration, no more than 2.3 mm thick.
   
2. The second problem is that metal does not absorb noise well. It is for this reason that sounds from the entrance enter the apartment, and vice versa, the neighbors can hear what is happening in the apartment. For these purposes, experts recommend using isolon (polyethylene foam, consisting of closed cells with air). A layer of 5-8 mm will be enough to significantly increase the sound insulation. Isolon is used in car tuning.

   

   The process of installing isolon on a metal door

3. Weak thermal insulation should also be attributed to the disadvantages sheet metal. At the best options finished door panels, a heater is installed inside. In Chinese, many budget options there may be corrugated cardboard. But even in the case when the door was insulated, for example, mineral wool, it shrinks over time, soaked with moisture. This increases the thermal conductivity of the insulation, it is better to change it.

   

   Example of metal door insulation

   In combination with foam upholstery, under leatherette, insulation will be as effective as possible. The size of the insulation inside is chosen based on the thickness of the web, outside it can vary from 10 to 20 mm. For the inner part of the insulation, it is recommended to use insulation made of dense mats, it does not settle as much as mineral wool. It is this “pie” that will help eliminate the shortcomings of metal sheets.
   

4. Upholstery in vinyl leather, the final stage of finishing the canvases. It is a practical, aesthetically pleasing material. Today the market offers the widest range, from inexpensive leatherette, the price of which is 200 rubles per square meter, to eco-leather and genuine leather, where the cost will vary from 700 rubles to several thousand.