Do-it-yourself insulation of an iron front door. How to insulate a metal door: step by step instructions. New door trim

06.03.2020

The metal door is an absolute favorite entrance group. Whatever beautiful tree, neat - metal-plastic and stylish - glass, in terms of quality, reliability and strength, iron has no competitors. But there is one significant drawback - thermal conductivity. In this article we will tell you how to insulate the entrance metal door, using the most common tools and those materials that can be bought at any hardware store. But most importantly, we will tell you how you can insulate to make it beautiful.

The main requirement for the quality of the canvas is a snug fit to the box, as a result of which cold, noise and smells do not penetrate from the outside and inside. The canvas itself should not contain cold bridges and be evenly insulated, since heat can leave the house even through separate zones.

Choice of method

The entrance iron door is insulated in two main ways:

internal filling with a heat insulator, when steel sheets (panels) are attached separately to the frame;
external insulation- if the canvas is monolithic and it is impossible to disassemble it into its constituent elements.

The first method is more preferable from the point of view of aesthetics. In this case, insulated metal entrance doors for the house in the apartment will look as beautiful as from the inside. The second option - with external works - is rather a measure of necessity, although they can be decorated beautifully. To do this, use an additional finish - wooden or plastic planks, nonwovens etc.

Materials and tools

Regardless of whether you decide to insulate the front door from the inside or from both sides, you will need:

screwdriver (you can stop on a screwdriver, but with a power tool faster);
drill with a drill for metal;
stationery knife;
hacksaw with the smallest teeth;
awl;
sandpaper of small and medium grit.

Mineral wool

The porous structure of the material retains heat well, does not give condensation, that is, the metal does not rust on the inside, but gradually knocks down, due to which voids form. In order to avoid such a "drain" down, it is necessary to fill grates with a side of 15-20 cm on the canvas and fill the mineral wool there.

The advantage of this material is the stability of the structure, it retains its shape even after 10 years, and does not emit toxic substances when ignited.

It costs a little more than polystyrene foam, but at the output it gives an excellent thermal break, as it has zero thermal conductivity. A door with a thermal break is, in fact, a thermal bridge that reliably separates both layers of the door and completely isolates the access of cold.

You can mention synthetic winterizer, foam rubber or woolen batting as a heater, but these are, say, exotic options that give a minimal effect. It is pointless to disassemble the door in order to insulate it with synthetic winterizer. In extreme cases, this material can be upholstered from the inside, but, we repeat, this will not fundamentally solve the problem of heat loss.

Additional materials:

sheet DSV or fiberboard for the design of the inner canvas;
strips of isolon 7-10 cm wide;
liquid nails for fixing the insulator;
screws;
one bottle with mounting foam;
sealant.

How to make the insulation of the entrance metal door

Here we will tell you how to insulate a metal collapsible front door.

To do this, it is first removed from the hinges, laid horizontally and the sheet is unscrewed from the inside (usually it is fixed with screws).

If the screws are not unscrewed due to the prescription of time, put a drop of machine oil on them, after which the process will go much easier. It’s not worth picking off the hats, then you have to drill out the body.

If it is impossible to remove from the hinges, the sheet is unscrewed gradually, starting from the lower side and gradually rising up. The order of work will be exactly the same, you just need another person who will support and help.

Next, cut the insulation to size. If it is polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam, it is better to cut it with a hacksaw with fine teeth. Mineral wool or basalt slabs are cut with a clerical knife.

Entrance door filled with mineral wool

Mineral wool is cut out 3-4 mm more than required in size - it is literally pushed inward so that it closes the corners perfectly.

Apply liquid nails to the inside of the canvas and the insulation around the perimeter and lay it tightly in the frame, simultaneously pressing the edges and the central part.

When preparing the insulator, consider the need for space for the bolt system and the lock - this part does not close and remains free.

All voids and irregularities are blown out with mounting foam. But again, pay attention not to touch the working space of the crossbar system. When squeezed out, the foam expands greatly and can move the working mechanism, and at the same time squeeze out part of the insulation. After hardening, cut off any excess with a knife.

Degrease the edge along the perimeter, squeeze out liquid nails or sealant and glue the isolon to move the dew point inward.

Next, mark out the size of the canvas and cut off the desired part of the fiberboard or laminate sheet, depending on what exactly the canvas will be decorated from the inside. Make holes with a thin drill in the same place where the screws were previously attached.
Degrease the surface again and “sit down” the laminate on the sealant. Screw loosely around the entire perimeter.
Return the metal door to the opening on the hinges and tighten all the screws. Separately, the edge should be treated with an adhesive-based rubber sealant. This is a guarantee that the door will close softly, tightly and not let in the cold.

This is the simplest and convenient way, for which you will spend at most 2 hours, and as a result you will get a metal entrance street insulated door.

VIDEO: It is clearly shown how exactly the front door is insulated from the inside

The situation is somewhat different with a non-separable structure, but even here you can manage on your own in a few hours.

How to properly insulate a non-separable structure

In this case, you can choose one of two options:

backfilling of dry insulator into the cavity.
external internal or external insulation;

For the first option, granular foam will do just fine - it is sold in most hardware stores. This method cannot be called ideal, since a private house needs a door with a thermal break, and in this case cold bridges are preserved, but in any case it is better than just an empty canvas.

Filling the dry insulator into the cavity

To fill the granular foam inside, 1-2 holes are drilled in the upper part, large enough so that the material can be poured through the funnel. In order for the granules to be evenly distributed inside, you need to periodically tap on the canvas or pull sharply towards yourself / away from you to push out the air. This is done quickly.

This method has one huge minus - the working space of the bolt lock is washed down with dry granules, and it simply stops working.

For other types of locking devices, there are no problems with granules. After the cavity is filled to the top, close the holes with plugs to match the color of the base and you're done.

It is a completely different matter if you are interested in how to insulate a metal box front door- Here, granules alone are indispensable.

External work on sheet insulation

For work, you will need all the same materials that we listed in the "Materials and Tools" section, plus wooden planks to strengthen the frame for the insulator. The easiest way to work with strips is 300x200 mm, but you can also use metal strips.

So, how to make the insulation yourself from the outside:

Planks and slats are cut around the perimeter and screwed with self-tapping screws to use as a frame.

Sealant can also be used, but not INSTEAD OF self-tapping screws, but together with them to ensure maximum fit.

Any selected insulating material is attached to the frame (polystyrene foam is the easiest and best quality). If you decide to isolate the door with your own hands, then it’s better not to mess with mineral wool - without a crate it long time won't last. Liquid nails are used for fastening.

After the glue has dried, a fiberboard or laminate sheet is screwed on top. You can use leatherette or leatherette, which are also fixed in the center and edges on the sealant.

metal box

In order to completely block access to cold air, it is not enough to work only with the canvas. It is also necessary to further figure out how to insulate the metal frame of the front door.

Often there is a loose fit, which is usually covered with a rubber or foam seal. Such a tape is made out mainly with an adhesive base, so it is easy to work with it.

The surface by gluing must be degreased so that in the future the material does not lag behind.

Pay special attention to the gaps between the wall and the box. This space is sealed with mounting foam, and after drying, the remains are cut off. In order to hide the junction, dobros are installed.

After the slots are closed and the seal is glued, you need to check the quality of the insulation. To do this, open a window on the opposite side and evaluate whether there is a draft and how strong. If such a flaw is found, they look where it blows from in order to close up these cracks.

VIDEO: Thermal break door. Installation. secrets

- This best protection from theft and breaking, but not from the cold. The disadvantage can be corrected if you insulate the iron front door with your own hands.

Three reasons to insulate the door

In the cold season, it's so nice when it's warm at home! It is important not only to get it, but also to keep it, and for this it is necessary to make housing as airtight as possible. A significant part of the heat is lost due to non-insulated doors, and metal structures are no exception.

There are three reasons to insulate a door:

drafts. To avoid jamming, a gap must be made between the canvas and the box, the width of which is 5-8 mm. Cold air easily penetrates through it into the room.
Condensate. Metal is a good conductor, so in cold weather, the inside of the structure is almost the same temperature as the outside. From contact with warm air room, condensation forms on its surface. Over time, it will corrode and ruin appearance doors.
Soundproofing. Much calmer when you do not hear the sounds of the street or the entrance. Unlike multi-layer doors, homogeneous iron structure amplifies the noise, which even at night is 30 dB. Insulating doors will increase sound insulation.

You can insulate the safe door with various materials. They are similar in characteristics and which one is chosen, the sequence and order of work will not change.

material for insulation

Even 20 years ago, the entrance would have been insulated with sawdust or felt. Modern thermal insulation materials practical, easy to use and do not support combustion. Common heaters are polystyrene foam, polypropylene foam, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, cork insulation.

Styrofoam is the general name for foamed polymers, the cells of which are filled with air or gas. It has sound and heat insulating properties. Little weight allows for quick installation. In addition, the foam is non-toxic, does not support combustion, and is also not afraid of moisture. This must be taken into account when insulating the door facing the street.

This class of materials includes polypropylene, polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam. The thickness of the plates is different, easy to choose best option for each design. In terms of thermal conductivity, 3 cm of polystyrene is equivalent to 15 cm of wood.

Mineral wool - fibrous tile or roll material. Depending on the composition, it can be stone, glass, slag. It is convenient to fix or lay mineral wool, it does not burn, but has one drawback: after getting wet, it decreases in volume and loses its thermal insulation properties. If at the entrance), mineral wool will get wet from condensate and will be useless. In addition, she will have bad smell and cause corrosion.
Cork agglomerate is a natural material made from the bark of an expensive cork tree. Expensive type of insulation. A layer of agglomerate 3 cm thick retains heat no worse than Brick wall 40 cm thick. The agglomerate does not support combustion, is not afraid of moisture, is not affected by mold and fungi. Cork insulation is often used in combination with other materials.

A piece of plasticine wrapped in a plastic bag will help facilitate the measurement. Press the plasticine with the door, and you will see how thick the seal you need.

It is better to choose a black seal, because the dye reduces its service life.

Applying the seal is easy. One side of the gum is covered with a sticky compound, from which the protective strip is removed and glued. After that, the canvas is insulated.

Sequence of work

In order to insulate the front metal door, you will need the following tool:

tape measure and pencil;
screwdriver;
electric jigsaw;
self-tapping screws;
mounting foam;
universal glue.

Let's take a closer look at all the steps:

The design is removed from the hinges for greater convenience.
handle with a screwdriver or screwdriver.
Remove the inner sheet of decorative trim. To use a screwdriver or a regular knife. This applies only to units with a split design.
With a knife, cut out pieces of foam of the required configuration so that they fit snugly between the stiffeners.
The resulting foam blocks are smeared with glue and glued to the canvas.
The gaps remaining between the insulation and the ribs are filled with mounting foam.
After the foam has dried, the cladding is re-installed.
They put the lock, the handle in place and hang the canvas on the loops.

The task will become more complicated if the block is one-piece, for example, made in China. In this case, a metal door can only be insulated with the help of an outer skin, which is mounted directly on top of the metal sheet.

The canvas is removed from the hinges, the lock and handle are dismantled.
An electric jigsaw saws off slats, of which. The width of the rails is 3 cm, the thickness is 2 cm.
screwed wooden structure to the metal panel with self-tapping screws.
Insulation blocks cut to size are glued to the canvas and wooden frame.
Slots and empty spaces not filled with polystyrene foam are filled with polyurethane foam.
After the foam has completely dried, a sheet of fiberboard or MDF, pre-cut, is screwed to the wooden frame with self-tapping screws. To make it lie more evenly, it is better to start screwing from above.
The inner lining is sanded and decorated oil paint or in another way.

Having completed the work consistently and accurately, as a result you will receive insulated iron entrance doors.

How to choose a metal door correctly

You have to buy wisely. Right choice a metal door will save you from many problems in the future. Here are some tips to help you figure out what it is worth overpaying for when buying an iron door.

Reliability. 90% of people choose metal structures not for aesthetic reasons. To protect yourself, loved ones and property from encroachment. Decide in advance how much protective devices you will need. Perhaps a safe door would be more suitable. Often too complex locks break, after which a new door has to be installed.
Strength. The metal from which the entrance structures are made can be hot-rolled and cold-rolled. The first has a dark tint, which is not always visible under the decor. It is less moisture resistant and quickly destroyed by corrosion. GOST 19903 number means that it is not best material. Cold rolled steel is more expensive, but also stronger than the previous version. Has a lighter shade. It can easily withstand weather changes. Number GOST 19904.
Thickness. The degree of protection is proportional to the thickness of the structure and ranges from 0.8 to 4 mm. Doors with an indicator of 0.8 are suitable for protecting something not very valuable. The door from the entrance to the apartment should be at least 2-2.5 mm, for a room where the owners rarely appear - up to 4 mm thick.
Design. The most reliable frame is monolithic, with one seam. A less durable design consists of four or eight segments. That is, the fewer seams, the better. This requirement also applies to the front of the structure.
The minimum number of stiffeners is three: one horizontal and two vertical. A larger number will add reliability, but will significantly increase the weight of the steel block.
Hinges and locks. For a 70-kilogram canvas, two loops are enough. If the door is used too often or is heavy, at least 3-4 hinges.
The optimal number of locks is also two. One, equipped with crossbars, will be protection in the long absence of the owners. The second locking device is for daily use.
Thermal insulation. Of course, you can do it yourself, but it’s more pleasant if it is already with thermal insulation.

We hope you find this guide useful.

Warmth and comfort in the house are the main tasks facing every owner of their own living space. Particular attention is paid to the front door, as it is in direct contact with the street. And in the cold season, heat is able to leave the room through the doorway. To avoid unpleasant consequences, the front door should be insulated. You can do this work yourself. But before insulating a wooden door in a private house, you should prepare everything you need for this.

How to insulate the front door

The guarantee of future comfort depends on the chosen material, for the sake of which the insulation was started. And if a few decades ago only felt, foam rubber and dermantin were available, today the choice is much greater. And here is what the manufacturers offer:

mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
Styrofoam.

Mineral wool, like polystyrene, is most often taken as the basis for insulation for metal door panels.. Both materials perfectly retain heat indoors and are not affected by microorganisms. Mineral wool is also worth noting because no rodents will spoil this insulation.

Mineral wool absorbs moisture

But these materials have some restrictions on their use.

Styrofoam belongs to the category of combustible insulation, so its use for working with wood is possible only when processed with special compounds. And "disease" mineral wool is subsidence. Over time, the skin may be at the bottom of the canvas and stop retaining heat. In addition, mineral wool accumulates moisture inside itself, which adds weight to the entire structure. Therefore, such material should not be used for warming a bath or sauna.

The use of isolon is more justified to achieve the goal of retaining heat. This material is made on the basis of foamed polyethylene, which gives it a minimum thermal conductivity. The advantages of the material include the fact that a canvas with a thickness of 10 - 15 mm will be enough for work. This allows you to keep an attractive appearance. door leaf without thickening it or making it bulky.

Izolon has low thermal conductivity

Expanded polystyrene has excellent performance. The door insulated in this way will become a reliable and safe barrier between warm home and cold street. Among the advantages of expanded polystyrene, its incombustibility should be highlighted. When a flame occurs, it will gradually disappear on the surface of this material.

For inexpensive insulation, you can always use foam rubber.. The material is convenient in all respects and will be a real find for a novice home master. Foam rubber will forgive the mistakes made and allow them to be painlessly corrected.

Tool

It is impossible to get the job done without the right set of tools. To create insulated entrance wooden doors will need:

Roulette and pencil;
Stationery knife;
Hacksaw;
A hammer;
Screwdriver;
Smooth rail or metal meter;
Mounter or nail puller;
Construction stapler.

It is necessary to prepare tools and sheathing material

If necessary, this set can be expanded, but for most operations it will be enough. It should be noted that the hacksaw is easily replaced by an electric jigsaw. This tool allows you to complete the work with the same quality, but much faster. And if the house does not have a screwdriver, then you can take a simple drill. The main thing is that it has a reverse, which will allow, if necessary, to unscrew any self-tapping screw or screw.

In addition to the tool, it is necessary to prepare the sheathing material. For most door panels, it will be enough to use a leatherette that has an attractive appearance. This material has good characteristics and wear resistance, so the canvas does not need to be repaired for a long time.

And if you like to do everything with your own hands, then we recommend you instructions on how to

Preparatory work

To perform the insulation of the door leaf, you should go step by step, stage by stage. This approach allows you to achieve good results and eliminate errors. And first you have to do the preparatory work.

In order for nothing to interfere with work, it is required to remove the door leaf. This is done with a rig or a nail puller. It is enough to pry the canvas from below and it will rise from the hinges. If the swivel axle is a little rusty, then it must be lubricated with machine oil. After that, with small translational movements, you can stir up the hinge and remove the door leaf.

When the door is outside the box, it is necessary to remove all existing elements from it. Hinges, handles, peephole and lock are carefully unscrewed and removed to the side. If the door is not made only of wood, then it is necessary to remove the inner lining sheet in order to gain access to the inner space of the door leaf.

Cutting and laying insulation

The next step in warming the door leaf will be laying material that will make it warmer.. To do this, you need to arm yourself with a clerical knife. Thermal insulation is cut along the length and width of the canvas so that there is no empty space left. If the door is a frame with voids, then they need to be filled with insulation.

The insulation is tightly inserted between the bars

All pieces must be tightly inserted between the bars to prevent the formation of cold bridges. At the same time, the material should not bubble, which will indicate an excessively large stock. In this case, it is worth cutting off the excess material a little. Once everything is adjusted, you need to fix the insulation with staples. Quickly and efficiently, this allows you to make a construction stapler.

New door trim

The next step will be the upholstery of the prepared wooden doors.. For this purpose, you can use soft materials such as leather substitute or leatherette. The upholstery fabric is cut off with a margin of length and width of at least 10 cm. This is necessary for bending the material, which should have some thickening around the entire perimeter of the door leaf.

As finishing material you can use dermantin

It is best to fasten dermantin on special nails. They have a large decorative cap, which gives the skin a more attractive look. You can also run copper wire over the nails. If you pull it, you get an additional mount for both insulation and exterior decoration.

analogue soft materials stands for MDF. This type of finish is used for frame canvases. In this case, each panel is attached to the kleimer, and nailed along the perimeter.

Installation of hinges and fittings

When the canvas gets a new look, it is necessary to install the removed fittings in place. The hinges must take their nests exactly as they were installed before work began. The seat for the lock must be carefully cut out so that there is no damage to the upholstery of the door leaf around it.

If necessary, insulation can be combined with.

The insulated door is mounted back

Mounting the seal

Installing frost-resistant insulation on the door leaf is only half the battle to eliminate the penetration of cold air into the living space. Even with the door closed, there is a small gap between it and the box, through which the cold will penetrate. Eliminating drafts is the next task for the home master.

To make this work, you need to choose optimal type sealant. Today, manufacturers can offer the following types of this material:

foam seals;
Silicone seals;
Rubber seals.

The first type of seal allows you to quickly and inexpensively solve the problem of drafts. It is ideal for doorway such a structure as a summer house, where there is no great intensity of opening and closing doors.

Foam seal - inexpensive, but also short-lived

The use of a silicone door seal will allow you to get rid of a draft for a longer time than a foam analog can do. The shape of the product guarantees a tight pressing of the canvas to the box, which will not allow air masses to move inside the room.

The best option is rubber compressor. Due to its characteristics, it allows you to get a warm opening for a long time even with the most intensive use. In addition, the variety of forms of this product makes it possible to install it on all types of door blocks.

With intensive use of doors, a rubber seal is used.

Having chosen the desired version of the seal, it remains only to install it in place. There are two main mounting options:

With adhesive strip.
With a harpoon in the groove.

The fastest way to install a new seal on the door is when using self-adhesive products. But this type cannot please with durability, so many experts recommend a harpoon mount in a groove.

It will be quite difficult to choose a small groove in a quarter without disassembling the boxes. Therefore, it is allowed to carefully nail the sealant with small carnations. Fastening must be done in the very corner of the quarter. This will allow the leaf to take its position in the door block without difficulty and provide reliable protection against drafts.

heavy steel doors will become very neat and warm, if you are puzzled by the manufacture of a decorative lining and honeycomb insulation. Today we will talk about the refinement of a simple metal door to obtain high aesthetic qualities, insulation, elimination of condensation and freezing of ice on the door leaf.

door design requirements

In an attempt to keep warm in housing, they often resort to methods that do not give a tangible effect, or even carry negative consequences. When we talk about the insulation of the front door, we mean a rather thin partition, it is almost impossible to completely eliminate the outflow of heat through it. Therefore, insulation should be as effective as possible.

Immediately make a reservation that it will not be possible to insulate well any door. The standard design of the web - sheet iron and a frame made of steel angle - is ideal for insulation. It is only important that the corners of this frame be located without spatial distortion: the edges of the shelves should lie in the same plane, without level differences of more than 1-1.5 mm. Technological clearances must be provided at fillet welds, especially the lower ones.

Particular attention should be paid to ensure that there are no additional structures. If the intermediate crossbars are an attempt to improve the strength characteristics of the canvas, nothing can be done. But the insulation will suffer greatly from this - steel stiffeners are stable cold bridges.

Fastener system development

Door insulation includes filler and decorative overlay. There will be no difficulties with fixing the filler if materials are chosen that retain their shape well and with a sufficiently high density. Such an insert, sandwiched between a steel sheet and an overlay, will stand intact and safe for decades. It is more difficult to develop a high-quality system for attaching the lining to the steel structure.

Here you will need to add an inner perimeter to the frame, made up of four wooden planks 40 wide and 20-25 mm thick, preferably calibrated. The door leaf must be removed and put inside out, make sure that the edges of the frame are flat, if necessary, grind the protruding parts. Do not be lazy - carry out the restoration and apply a protective coating on the metal. Since the back surface will remain unattended, do everything according to the rules: cleaning, converter, degreasing, priming and a couple of layers of nitro enamel.

From the inside, along the contour of the corners, apply mounting foam with a sufficiently thick layer. Having pressed an even rail against the steel frame, drown the wooden planks into the foam so that their upper edges are flush with the frame of the canvas, and a layer of foam of about 2-3 mm is preserved between the rail and the corner. Then drown the wooden frame another 1.5-2 mm deeper by inserting chips under the rail-rule.

When the foam dries, drill holes on the outside of the corner and attach the wood to the frame with self-tapping screws or bolts. For reference: in the production of doors, studs are welded in advance to hide the attachment points. To insulate the lock area, insert a sleeve from a 50 mm sewer pipe between the lock body and the leaf and fill the space with mounting foam. On the inside, the lock can be covered with an EPS or PUR overlay. It remains only to cut off the excess foam and the door will be ready for further work.

Where and what kind of lining to get

The best option for the interior lining of the front door is an MDF plate with a texture and color matched to the plinth in the hallway. You can make such an overlay to order in most furniture enterprises, the average price is 1-5 thousand rubles per m 2. It will cost a little more to apply a pattern with a cutter or cover with an acrylic film.

The overlay is made in such a way that its edges are flush with the framing steel corner, in other words, the MDF covers the edges of the corners completely. It is desirable that the overlay has a turn of the decorative coating inside out, and the edges are smoothed with a chamfer.

Any interior siding system can be used in place of the overlay. A plastic sandwich with a polyurethane core is well suited - it, like MDF, is a good insulation in itself.

In this case, you will have to place the overlay completely inside the framing frame, and this is the main drawback of the method. The edges of the corners will be visible, the junction will have to be sealed, and the fastening strips will additionally be sunk to the thickness of the starting profile.

You will also need to add several embedded crossbeams for attaching the sandwich and arrange a mortgage for attaching the lock fittings. Usually two slats 65 cm from the bottom and top of the door are sufficient, fixed flush with the wooden frame with steel corners. In doors with a width of more than a meter, you will need to install intermediate brackets for attaching additional frame rails. In the simplest case, these are ordinary short pieces of a corner welded to the canvas from the inside. The fastening of the planks to them is carried out in the same way as for a wooden frame - with self-tapping screws with a preliminary landing on the foam.

Materials for insulation

The main problem with door insulation is the formation of condensate on the canvas. For painted steel, moisture is relatively harmless, but with loose insulation it can play a cruel joke. Usually, at least some sense from periodically soaking mineral wool is preserved only in the first 2-3 years of operation, then the filler has to be changed.

To avoid the influence of condensate, polymeric materials can be used - polyurethane foam, PIR or extruded polystyrene foam. Cheaper foam is not suitable - it tends to absorb moisture, giving a chance for mold and mildew to develop.

The plate heater is very convenient in work. It is glued in separate fragments on a small amount of polyurethane foam. There can be several layers with any stacking order. Only two things are important:

The insulation should not protrude above the wooden slats.
All voids must be carefully filled with mounting foam.

With the same success, you can use mineral heaters, if they are properly prepared. Usually, two rectangular mats are cut out for one door with overall dimensions of 20-30 mm more than the internal space. Each block of insulation is wrapped in an envelope made of polyamide film, the seams are carefully tucked up and glued with adhesive tape. Inside, 2-3 bags of silica gel should be laid out to absorb moisture residues that have penetrated into the cotton wool during packaging.

Fitting, assembly, insertion of fittings

To mount the lining, you need to orient it on the frame, achieving the same indents on all sides. Having crushed the plate with oppression, drill a 4 mm hole in diagonally opposite corners, then make a countersink for a furniture confirmation. After fixing the trim to the wood frame in two places, drill the remaining corners and tighten them, then remove the oppression and add fasteners around the perimeter in 40 mm increments.

Now the junction of the lining needs to be sealed, this is done as follows: the confirmations are unscrewed, the MDF is removed, a foam cutout of appropriate sizes is placed inside the frame on wooden slats. Then the plate must be returned to its place and the fasteners screwed back.

For the manufacture of technological holes for the installation of a peephole, handles and decorative overlays for locks, their centers are marked from the street side with a long drill through. A hole is drilled under the peephole with a crown, then screw the mounting sleeve, and the peephole itself into it.

Cutouts for locks can be made by attaching a decorative overlay from the wrong side - usually it is wide enough so that the hole can be made with a margin. The same principle applies to the handle and the larvae of pin locks, but with a small caveat: the larva will still have to be temporarily pulled out, while the lever lock has a fairly wide hole in the very center.

We eliminate blowing

One small touch remains - to eliminate the blowing of the door by sealing the porch. Self-adhesive sealing strips are used for it, it is desirable that they be rubber and two-row. Optimal scheme stickers with the formation of a double porch is as follows:

The back of the canvas is cleaned and degreased.
One two-row strip is glued around the perimeter.
An opposite strip is attached to it on small balls of plasticine so that one of the sides is oriented just between the two opposite ones.

After the simulated surfaces of the door frame are also cleaned and degreased, protective films are removed from the adhesive surface. The door now needs to be softly closed and pressed, while the oncoming strips will stick thoroughly, and the plasticine balls will easily fall behind.

Metal doors- a reliable means of protecting the premises from intrusion from the outside. But it happens that the insulating characteristics of such a device leave much to be desired. Fortunately, this problem can be solved using Additional materials. Detailed information on how to insulate a metal door is contained in the article.

The choice of insulation

When deciding on the choice of insulation, users have several options for which tool to use:

Mineral wool

It got its name due to the fact that it is made from fusible natural minerals. In the process of exposure to high temperatures, the structure of the source material becomes ductile. It is transformed into the thinnest threads that are woven together, forming a thick web. The resulting mass really looks like cotton wool.

The value of the final product depends on how valuable and quality material used for its production.

Pros:

Excellent insulating properties.
High resistance to temperature changes, humidity change, chemical composition air, etc.
This heater is considered safe in the event of a fire. Its properties contribute to the fact that the flame, colliding with a layer of mineral wool, will not be able to pass into the next room.

Minuses:

Although the material is resistant to external factors , over time, it begins to sag under its own weight. Accordingly, their functions will not perform so well.

Styrofoam

It is a lightweight material widely used in construction as an insulator. The composition is unique: it is almost 100% air. To obtain it, polystyrene granules are foamed several times alternately, then doused with a jet of hot air. This technology allows you to make the weight of the finished material minimal, while it has good insulating properties.

Having obtained the desired consistency, the foam is left to dry to get rid of excess moisture.

Pros:

The structure of the insulation withstands external influences while maintaining the given shape.
Foam is easy to work with, easily cutting out elements of the required size and shape.
Holds up well, does not move.
Low cost.

Minuses:

Insulation performance is very mediocre. In particular, this is due to the fact that the foam is not able to hermetically contact with another material, so loopholes for cold and extraneous sounds remain in the smallest cracks.
The structure collapses under the influence of hot water.
Unfortunately, foam also cannot boast of a high level of fire safety.

It is the result of the activity of the pulp industry. These are dense sheets of cardboard, glued and stacked in such a way that the structure is multi-layered and cellular.

Pros:

Low cost.
Ease of installation.
Light weight.

Minuses:

The insulating properties are even lower than those of polystyrene.
Can respond to humidity levels, over time, the structure under the influence of moisture can condense, which will worsen the insulation.
Low level of fire safety.

This is essentially plastic, which, being inside a special device, looks like a liquid. At the time of application under pressure, this liquid foams and becomes voluminous at the exit. Within a short time, the mass hardens, creating a reliable protective barrier.

Pros:

It is considered today the best heater.
Resistant to changes in temperature and humidity, exposure to chemicals.
Mold and the development of pathogens are not terrible for this material.
Safe for residents.
Fire resistant.

Minuses:

Requires careful professional application.

Necessary materials and tools

So, to perform work on the insulation of a metal door, you will need the following tools:

putty knife;
screwdriver;
jigsaw (preferably electronic);
construction knife;

Materials:

directly the heater itself;
building foam to perform installation work;
universal glue (insulation material will be attached to it), or liquid nails;
sealant;
putty;
plywood, some wood to create the inner frame of the door;

Insulation options

Depending on the location of the material, the following insulation options are possible:

From within.
Outside.

The first method is suitable if the inner door leaf is collapsible. In this case, simply remove it and fill the space with the selected type of insulation. The only thing you need to make sure that access to moisture is closed to the material. To do this, a waterproof film is usually applied over the insulation.

The second method is most often chosen in cases where the door frame is non-separable.

There are two options here:

Bulk. Several holes are made in the door leaf with a drill, through which the interior space is filled with granular foam. Possible cons:
- Insufficient insulation if there is not enough material or it is unevenly distributed.
- May negatively affect performance locking mechanism.
- Holes, even closed with plugs, can spoil the appearance of the canvas.
Create an outer frame. The method is more painstaking and requires some skill. Most often, to create an additional layer between the leaf and the door, are used wooden bars or plywood. They are sawn in accordance with the parameters of the source material, and a frame is formed from them, the cavity of which is filled with insulation.

Do-it-yourself warming

Door leaf

Before choosing a method for self-insulating a door, you need to study its design: whether the canvas is disassembled or not, how the locking mechanism works, etc. You can increase the insulation of the leaf or door frame.

Canvas:

If the canvas can be disassembled, then it is best to place the insulation material inside. To do this, it is cut to the desired size depending on the parameters of the canvas (if a solid is laid). So that the insulation does not move, it is fixed with spacers. It is easier to work with soft, only if the chosen product is not moisture resistant, after installation it must be covered with a special film.
If the canvas is not separable, then you can apply the bulk method described in the previous section.

Warming the box is a time-consuming method, but the high-quality result is worth it.

So how should you proceed:

Remove the fabric from the hinges.
Take out the door peephole, locking system.
Remove screws, with which the finishing panel is attached to the door frame.
If the insulation is solid, it must be cut so that it completely occupies the internal cavities in size. You can fasten it universal glue or liquid nails. All, even the smallest gaps left between the material and the door body, should be filled with construction foam, otherwise, paths for cold air flows will remain.
soft material, It is also fixed on an adhesive base and, if necessary, additionally covered with a protective film.

After the completion of the installation work, the outer panel is fixed back, the peephole and locks are returned, the door is installed in its place.

The presence of the smallest gaps between the joints can become a source of tangible drafts. This problem can be easily solved with a sealing tape. It can be made of rubber or foam rubber. The main thing is to choose the right thickness (usually the choice is made in favor of the minimum) in order to exclude obstruction of the normal closing of the door.

Sealing material is glued over the joints around the entire perimeter of the door.

Finished insulated metal doors

The tightness and insulating characteristics of the door should be taken care of even at the stage of its acquisition. Having bought an already insulated copy, you will not have to subsequently look for ways to improve it with your own hands.

Even at the production stage, one or another type of insulation is laid in the door cavity. Maximum tightness is achieved by gluing the entire perimeter of the box with a sealant.

Price finished product depends on the quality of the materials used in production, the manufacturer, the cost of insulation, the type of lining and burglary resistance. The range of prices for insulated doors is quite large - from 12,000 to 70,000 rubles.

So, when planning to insulate a metal door, you should remember the following:

Knowledge design features doors will allow you to choose the most suitable method of insulation.
It is better not to save on insulation material, because the higher cost is due not only to insulating parameters, but also to fire resistance, independence from the influence of environmental factors, as well as environmental safety.
When mounting solid material care must be taken to ensure that all joints are filled with construction foam, otherwise drafts cannot be avoided.
If the inner surface of the door consists of stiffeners, they also need to be filled with foam by drilling several holes in them, since at their core they are small hollow pipes that will let cold air into the living space.
By purchasing a door that is already initially insulated, you can save yourself the trouble of making structural changes. Besides, industrial plant insulation is usually made of better quality than hand-made, and therefore its service life is much longer.