How to build a cellar for storing vegetables. Do-it-yourself cellar in the country (56 photos): materials, stages. Construction and waterproofing of walls

The cellar (storage) in the country is a necessary and obligatory premise, the construction of which can be done with your own hands, while the main condition is to perform all the steps step by step, according to the instructions.

What requirements must the cellar meet?

The direct purpose of the cellar in the country is the storage of grown crops and various canned products in it. It is because of this that many confuse it with a basement.

Although there is much in common between these premises, there is also a significant difference - this is their location. The basement is located in the basement of a private house, while the cellar is a separate building. It can be arranged in such a way that it will be invisible on the site, but there are also varieties that, after erection, will become an integral part of landscape design.

In order for the storage shed to be fully consistent with its intended purpose, this room should be built in the country, taking into account some features:

• enough low temperature– within the range from +4℃ to +7℃;
• high air humidity - 80% - 90%;
• lack of windows to prevent sunlight from entering;
• natural circulation of fresh air.

Thanks to the constant maintenance of such conditions, vegetables and fruits in the cellar will retain their beneficial properties for a long period.

Storage types

Depending on the location on the plot, there are several types of cellars. At the same time, the type of future construction will have to be chosen not only based on the personal preferences of the owner, but also on how close groundwater passes to the soil surface.

Ground storage

Ground (in some sources - above ground) - the most common type of cellar, since such a structure can be erected even in a site subject to frequent waterlogging or located in a lowland. In addition, the ground storage has distinguishing feature- this building does not provide for overlap, which makes it simple and quite economical when building with your own hands.

Some cellar owners still put a gable wooden roof on the building. Often you can find a ground cellar, built by yourself, which looks like a small wooden house.

For reference! Most often, the structure is disguised under a thick layer of earth, where only the entrance door remains. Lawn grass or other types of plants are planted upstairs, the roots of which keep the soil from sprinkling.

Semi-recessed design

This type of structure is the most optimal for the construction of a storage facility for fruits and vegetables. Outwardly, it is similar to the ground structure, but differs in that only part of the structure protrudes above the soil surface, while the other is located below it. As a rule, the depth of the pit into which the structure goes is no more than 1.5 meters.

The door to the semi-buried storage is installed below the soil surface and is carefully insulated. In addition, choosing this type of storage shed for construction, it is necessary to provide a system for draining melt and rainwater.

Buried storehouse

This type of cellar is most suitable for construction on a site with not large sizes. In this case, the main condition is a low location ground water. This type of construction is being built at a depth of about 2 meters from the surface of the earth, but before starting construction, it is imperative to invite specialists to inspect the site selected for the cellar.

Stages of building a storehouse

In order to understand how to build a cellar with your own hands, you should disassemble phased construction the most difficult of the presented types of storehouse - recessed. At the same time, materials and individual structural elements, depending on the preference of the owner, can be changed, but the very essence of the construction will be the same.

Pit construction

The construction of the cellar should begin with the preparation of the foundation pit, the size of which will depend on the dimensions of the future premises. In addition, approximately 0.5 meters are added to them on each side for the construction of walls.

To properly dig a pit, you must first put the markup. To do this, wooden stakes are driven into the corners of the future recess, onto which a cord is pulled.

After that, the top layer of turf is removed along the entire perimeter of the marking, which can later be useful for masking the storehouse, and a hole of the required depth is dug. Then all the sides of the pit should be leveled, and its bottom should be carefully tamped.

Foundation laying

Depending on how close the groundwater passes to the future structure, the question will be decided how to cover the bottom of the pit. If they are located much lower than the cellar, compacted sand or gravel can serve as the base of the room.

Attention! If the danger of flooding of the storehouse still exists, it is necessary to cover the inner sides of the pit with a layer of waterproofing material, on top of which the foundation is laid.

In order to make it, it is necessary to tie a frame from reinforcement rods, which rises with the help of bricks. Next, beacons are installed around the entire perimeter of the lower part of the pit, and its bottom is poured cement mortar, the thickness of which should be approximately 0.04 meters. Then you should wait a few weeks until the foundation is completely dry.

The erection of the walls of the storehouse

After the foundation has hardened and the sides of the pit have been previously covered with a layer of waterproofing material, you can begin to build the walls of the future cellar. Most often, bricks, cinder blocks or concrete blocks are used for this.

The walls begin to fold from the corners to the sides. For fixing, cement mortar or clay is used, while the thickness of the seams should not exceed 12 mm. In order for the walls to be even and strong, steel bars are embedded in the solution every 3 rows of material and measurements are taken using building level and plumb.

If the building provides for an entrance not through a hatch hole, but through a door, then one of the walls leaves room for a doorway.

Floor construction

One of the most common flooring options for a summer cottage is a wooden frame. It can be assembled from boards (section 50x00 mm) and pieces of plywood (thickness 10 mm) in such a way that a domed shape is obtained.

The finished frame is installed on the walls of the building and covered with plywood sheets. A mesh of reinforcement bars is knitted over them, which is lifted with the help of small bars. After that, the entire floor area is poured with concrete mortar, and no work is performed until it is completely solidified.

Entry-exit arrangement

To equip the entrance to the vault, two brick walls are laid out from the doorway left during the construction so that they go up. The result should be a descent that resembles a corridor. After that, you can start building.

Important! Since the room must constantly maintain a high level of humidity, it is not quite suitable for its intended use. In this case, it is better to give preference to metal structures or lay out concrete steps.

Most often, cellar doors are made of wooden planks, having previously treated them with an antiseptic. They are mounted on metal hinges that are fixed to a frame built into the doorway.

Insulation and waterproofing from the outside

After the concrete on the floor of the storage shed has completely hardened, it is necessary to thoroughly insulate it. For this, sheet polystyrene foam is most suitable, but you can pick up more cheap option, for example, clay with sawdust or straw.

Before the concrete floor is insulated, it should be covered with sheets of waterproofing material. Then, a layer of clay mixture is tightly applied to the entire surface of the roof, preferably at least 0.1 meters thick.

After the mortar hardens, the overlap should be covered again with water-repellent materials - roofing material or a dense film - in several layers. Then the whole structure is covered from above with fertile turf, on which you can land lawn grass or ornamental plants.

Interior decoration

A self-built cellar must be finished from the inside. The material for this should also be selected taking into account the location of groundwater. Most often, the walls and floor of the room remain intact after construction, but it is necessary to ensure the circulation of fresh air and conduct electricity in the storehouse.

To always be present in the repository Fresh air and there was no dampness, 2 pipes are installed - supply and exhaust. At the same time, in a self-built ground cellar-house, the supply pipe is located at the bottom, and the exhaust pipe is at the top of the building. In a recessed storehouse, the entire ventilation system is installed at the top.

Regardless of the type of cellar, electricity is provided in the room with additional precautions.

Attention! All wiring must be wrapped in two layers of insulation, and light sources are covered with special caps. At the same time, it is highly undesirable to install sockets inside the storage.

A visual aid for building a cellar with your own hands

As practice shows, it is not difficult to build a cellar on your own. At the same time, the material can be selected from improvised means, which will significantly reduce construction costs.

For example, you can build a cellar with your own hands from brick, which remained after the dismantling of a building. Also, many owners of summer cottages are building ground sheds from old boards.

How to build a cellar with your own hands, you can watch the video:

2018-03-14

Increasing interest in the construction of cellars, in particular ground ones, is shown by the owners of summer cottages and country houses. A city dweller under the word "cellar" certainly represents a deep hole in the ground. While in the countryside it is not at all uncommon to find a ground cellar - great alternative traditional underground storage.

Such a structure is distinguished not only by its large capacity, but also by the optimal microclimate, which allows you to keep food fresh for several months. Yes, and build it yourself is quite simple. The cost of construction is also quite low compared to the underground option.

A ground or riding cellar can be built on any site, including those with a high level of groundwater. At the same time, the cellar, like any other outbuilding, can be beautifully decorated, and thereby make your site even more attractive. But first things first.

Site selection

The durability of the ground cellar and the safety of products in it depends precisely on the correctly chosen location of the building. Construction should be carried out on a dry (preferably elevated) place so that the groundwater level is 50-60 cm below the bottom of the storage.

It is better to choose a place for construction on a hillock.

If the water is very close, you should first create a pillow of sand and gravel under the bottom of the storage. It is also easy to do it yourself. Due to the drainage, it will be possible to avoid water seepage into the room.

Well, now it's time to decide on the type of this repository itself.

Surface storage features

The main difference between the cellars from each other lies in the only indicator - the location relative to the level of the soil. The ground cellar is built completely on the surface, in contrast to the underground ones, which are buried half or completely in the ground.

Ground cellars are:

1. Separate, that is, erected as an autonomous structure.
2. Wall-mounted. In this case, the wall of an existing building acts as one of the walls of the cellar: barn houses, etc. The ground wall cellar will not be discordant with the surrounding landscape.

Despite external differences, both construction options have undeniable advantages:

• They occupy a small area.
• They completely prevent flooding.
• Excellent functionality at any time of the year with absolute energy independence.
• Ease of use, due to the relatively large size of the cellar, in contrast to the usual household refrigerators.

But, of course, as in any other structure, here you can notice some drawbacks:

There are three main types of above ground storage structures.

Ordinary storage shed with bunding

This is the simplest building. It is more like a hut, and for its construction boards or logs are used. Moreover, it is not at all necessary to buy new ones, because at each site there are previously used building materials.

Scheme for the construction of a vegetable storehouse.

To build such a cellar with your own hands, you need to perform only a few operations:

1. Sanded logs with a diameter of not more than 25 cm, cover with bitumen or burn to a height of 50-60 cm, which will double their service life.
2. Along the perimeter of the future building, dig the blanks with a machined edge into the ground. Tie the upper ends tightly together with long poles. Thus, a holistic design is obtained.
3. Make a crate from the "croaker" and a roof from the boards.
4. Cover the structure with roofing material, that is, create the necessary waterproofing.
5. Arrange thermal insulation: sew up the end side in 2 rows with boards and lay a layer of roofing material between them.
6. Fall asleep (dump) with peat soil, which perfectly retains heat. Sow any undersized or creeping plants.
7. On the north side, make an entrance with an insulated door and a canopy above it.
8. Dig a not very deep ditch around the entire perimeter of the constructed cellar - to create protection against the approach of water.
9. Arrange ventilation: a wooden box equipped with a control valve and a pair of pipes will serve as an exhaust hood: an exhaust pipe (under the ceiling) and a flow pipe located 50 cm above the floor level.

This is what the storehouse might look like from the outside.

The optimal dimensions of the storehouse are 4x8 meters. Its service life is about 10 years.

Important! The edges of the roof should hang almost to the ground. Thus, the built cellar should externally imitate a hut. And the snow that has fallen in winter will act as a natural insulation.

There is also a collapsible storage shed model - for those who do not want to annually clean their vegetable store. As a rule, it is erected in early autumn, and dismantled in spring. However, after that, the soil should be dug up to the depth of the shovel bayonet and treated with a 5% solution of copper sulphate. That is, to disinfect the soil. The service life of such a cellar can also reach 10-12 years.

Cellar without bunding

A cellar built entirely above ground level, like a regular outbuilding.

Building such a storage facility with your own hands, with some building skills, is quite simple. You just need to follow the sequence of work:

1. Make a marking of the future ground cellar and remove the sod. Dig a hole no more than 50-60 cm deep, and collect the earth in a pile (it will still be needed). Then, level and tamp the prepared area well.
2. Arrange a drainage cushion made of expanded clay, fine gravel or coarse sand, that is, equip the cellar with the necessary waterproofing.
3. To create a reliable protection against rodents: put a layer of 10-12 cm of well-soaked and mashed clay on the prepared pillow.
4. Lay (drown) red bricks flat in it. Moreover, the gap between them should be minimal.
5. Lay out the side walls with a brick (put on the edge). The binding solution is a mixture of sand, clay and lime. In this case, the masonry should rise above ground level on the bayonet of the shovel.
6. Make a ceiling and walls: to build a ground cellar, you will need fairly thick boards (magpies or fifty). They should be sewn in 2 rows, laying each heat-insulating material(expanded clay, polystyrene foam, moss and others).
7. To sheathe finished walls with roofing material - this will avoid the occurrence of unwanted drafts in the vegetable store.
8. On one of the end sides of a self-built ground cellar, arrange a manhole with inner and outer doors. With the onset of severe cold weather, insulation must be laid between them. It is also necessary to build a small vestibule, which contributes to more reliable thermal insulation of the storage. Install a ventilation pipe on the same side.
9. Build a roof: it can be single or gable. Any material will serve as a material for it. roofing material: slate or roofing felt.
10. Dig a drainage ditch up to 50 cm deep along the perimeter of a self-built ground cellar and equip a blind area (width 1 m) with a slight slope from the storage. This will protect it from flooding.

Surface wall cellar

A good solution that saves land area is to build a cellar at bearing wall Houses. Moreover, with minimal material costs (provided that the work is done by hand).

Scheme of construction of a wall storage.

The order of work is as follows:

1. Designate the perimeter of the future building (its size is chosen individually).
2. Lay out the walls of the vault: the material can be fired brick or monolithic concrete; masonry is carried out in 1 brick using a sand-cement mortar in a ratio of 3x1. Internal and external walls must be carefully plastered with cement mortar.
3. Outside the cellar, apply 2 layers of bitumen grease, that is, create a reliable waterproofing.
4. To make a floor - to properly level the earthen surface, clean it and make a concrete substrate with a thickness of no more than 20 cm.
5. After the concrete has completely hardened (after 7-10 days), pour a cement-sand mortar 5-6 cm thick, that is, finally create a floor in the cellar. At the same time, in order to avoid the occurrence of excessive stresses of the building, all concrete work should be carried out in one day. So the mass will harden evenly over the entire area.
6. Build a multi-layer roof using slab, clay and 2 layers of roofing material.
7. Perform an embankment with dry (preferably fertile) soil and sow it with undersized perennials.
8. Along the entire perimeter of a self-built ground cellar, make a blind area with a slight slope away from the building and dig a shallow (20-25 cm) groove to drain rain or melt water.
9. Equip with shelves and all kinds of necessary containers for storing vegetables and home preservation.

Important! Do not neglect any of the systems (waterproofing, ventilation, insulation, drainage), as they are all equally important, interconnected and support each other.

Any outbuilding can be beautifully decorated.

At the same time, it should be remembered that the best time for the construction of a cellar, this is summer, when the level of groundwater (underground) water is the lowest.

Thus, a ground cellar built according to all the rules with your own hands will bring only benefit and satisfaction to its owners for many years.

From this article, you will understand what types of cellars exist, how to build it yourself in the country with your own hands, and we will analyze some of the features and tricks of such a structure during its arrangement.

One of the ancient types of construction, invisible to the surrounding eye, but allowing you to always keep food fresh and in the cold, is a cellar. Now no one will say who was its creator, and it doesn’t matter, because, despite huge selection refrigeration equipment, cellars continue to be in great demand, especially in private and suburban areas.

What is a tomb? This is, in fact, a recess in the ground, with good heat and waterproofing, which allows you to keep a constant temperature and prevent excess moisture from entering the room, while keeping all the contents in optimal conditions for long-term storage.

Types of cellars

The best one is with a canopy built over it. Feel free to store homemade blanks inside, and under, i.e. on the cellar you can keep whatever your heart desires. The advantage of such a canopy is that it protects the entire structure from all kinds of precipitation and other influences from intruders.

Cellar with cellar:
a - general view;
b - incision;
c - plan;
1 - insulation; 2 - lime whitewash; 3 - blind area; 4 - hot coating bituminous mastic; 5 - clay castle; 6 - rubble concrete.

Themselves in our room can be made of red brick, concrete or logs and boards. If the cellar will be built with your own hands in a humid area, then it is necessary to create drainage, this is necessary so that moisture does not enter the cellar.

The simplest cellar is earthen, it is quickly built and inexpensively. It is advisable to build it on a dry (where only to find such a place) and a high place. This cellar usually has the most uncomplicated design and such structures are made of any materials.

It is built like an ordinary pit, from 2 meters to 2.5 meters high, depending on your area of ​​\u200b\u200bresidence and the walls of which are made at an angle to the floor. The slope for the walls is needed so that they do not crumble. Also, such a cellar from above needs to be insulated against frost. Well, they build the roof, at their own discretion.

Earth cellar:
1 - bins; 2 - drainage ditch; 3 - roof slope; 4 - shelves; 5 - floor

A completely different view is a semi-buried cellar. During its construction with their own hands, they deepen about a meter into the ground, and the other part of the structure rises above the ground.

Walls can be made of concrete and brick, waterproofing is also required between different parts premises. it is allowed, both pasting and coating, these cellars can be built everywhere, even in areas with a high occurrence of groundwater.

And to find out the level of groundwater in any area is simple, you should look into the well in the spring.

Cellar under the garage also became quite popular.

Its advantages are obvious:

• construction is cheaper because there is already a built canopy on top.
• And also, the pit of the garage cellar can be used as viewing hole, when repairing a car. Very comfortably.

How to build a cellar with your own hands

For all its usefulness and functionality, the cellar is quite simple to build even alone. Naturally, the building itself should begin with the search for a place to build a cellar. It is advisable to choose a place on a hill so that rainwater can drain and not accumulate above the cellar. If the place is still low, then you need to make a pillow - sand and gravel.

After you have decided on the place of construction, you need to start digging a pit. The pit should be dug carefully, preferably by hand, avoiding landslides. Also, it is necessary to make the walls of the cellar slightly inclined in order to avoid collapses in the future.

When the pit is dug, you need to build a floor. It must be well compacted so that in the future the shelves with the contents do not fall into the ground. After ramming, lay the bottom with clay in several layers, the thickness of the clay should be 15-20 cm more than the wall. Such a thing has a name - a clay castle (so rarely, who does it, it is very labor-intensive).

This castle has an excellent property - it is the ability to absorb and retain water. Further, to level the floor, it is necessary to lay concrete with a layer of 15 cm or wet soil, it is necessary to completely cover the clay layer.

Waterproofing

Let's look at an important stage in the construction of the cellar with our own hands - this is waterproofing. After all, you do not need dampness in the room, just the same. The weakest points are the joints of the walls and the floor, for them there are such locks that consist of tow with bitumen. There is a good way from flood waters, the essence of it is that the walls and floor are poured with dense waterproof concrete.

Another method is used if water does not enter the cellar in the spring, its essence is that in the cellar all walls must be treated with hot bitumen and, in addition, sprinkled with coarse sand.

Video: waterproofing the cellar in the garage.

Walls

There are several options, but in any case, the walls must be strengthened without fail. After that, they can be sheathed with boards or build a brick wall for which the best option is red brick.

The walls can be laid out in or even half a brick (for the economical ones). The mortar is made from sand, water, lime and cement. Here I can add that when laying walls, you must have the skills of a bricklayer or know how to lay a brick.

If the walls are equipped with boards, then it is necessary to make this lining collapsible in order to be able to take out wooden material for ventilation.

Do-it-yourself cellar - photos of walls made of different materials:

Cellar ceiling

The overlap can be done as follows: lay wooden beams on the foundation pit, the minimum thickness is 15 cm.

1. Put several layers of slabs or boards on the beams and each layer of this flooring should be insulated with clay, the minimum thickness of which is 5 cm.
2. The total thickness of the insulation should be more than 40 cm, you also need to build a hatch, which also needs to be insulated.

Ventilation

Ventilation occupies an important place in the construction of the cellar with your own hands. Usually it is made of two pipes, one for air inlet, and the second for outlet. It is desirable that the pipes have embedded valves and they must be located at different angles, the supply pipe is 50 cm from the floor, and the exhaust pipe is under the ceiling.

It happens that they use one pipe, but there are rules, the diameter must be more than 10 cm, and the air inlet goes through a hatch or doors, depending on the design of the cellar.

You can check the hood like this: put a bucket of burning coal in the cellar and see where the smoke goes.

Useful tips for those whose ventilation is not properly installed:

• when the humidity is high, it is necessary to open the hatch or door, you can put a box with quicklime in the cellar.
• If the room, on the contrary, is very dry, then you need to spray water or scatter wet sawdust on the floor.

If the cellar needs finishing work, then you can plaster the walls. For the floor, you can apply the so-called ironing process - this is on top of fresh concrete, a small layer of dry cement is poured and smoothed.

Video: cellar construction in high groundwater conditions.

The final stage in the construction of the cellar with your own hands is:

• to do interior design;
• place shelves;
• conduct electricity, etc. .

Of course, the arrangement of internal comfort depends on the desire of the builder himself. But, in any case, this wakes up to serve for a long time, keeping your home preservation fresh and cool.

Basement not: if the latter is necessarily located away from the house, then the basement is under it or in close proximity; most often, the basement as a building structure is also the foundation of the house. The basement is necessarily buried below the standard freezing depth of the soil (NGP); the cellar can also be bulk surface. The basement floor is often located below the groundwater level (GWL). All this makes the basement and the house on it especially sensitive to ground movements and the action of groundwater. Moreover, the basement can exacerbate the influence of both of these factors. All this makes the construction of the basement almost the most difficult and responsible task of the entire cycle. construction works. When built to order on a turnkey basis, a house with a basement costs 30-100% more than the same basementless one. However, the basement in the house provides a lot of conveniences and benefits, and it is quite possible to build a basement with your own hands and save a large amount. Let's try to figure out how.

What does the basement provide?

The traditional use of the basement as food storage is already more useful than cellars: the microclimate in it is more stable, easier to regulate, and it is much more difficult for pests to get into the basement than into the cellar. The basement is also more suitable for a workshop and other utility rooms: it is electrified, gasified and heated along with the house.

The basement in a private house is especially beneficial as a center for the concentration of life support systems (LSS): all equipment can be located safely, compactly and conveniently for current maintenance and repair, on the left in Fig. And that's not all: a boiler or heating stove with a water circuit, transferred in the same house from the boiler room (furnace) upstairs to the basement, it turns out, they begin to consume 3-5% less fuel due to the same stable basement microclimate. The savings for the heating season in material terms are quite tangible.

Another advantage of a house with a basement in our area is still little known, but in the countries of Southern Europe, the demand for houses with a residential basement (on the right in the figure) steadily exceeds supply. The point here is survival, but not in case of war or some fantastic cataclysms. There are also enough real ones: due to global warming, the Sahara will “spit” hot air every summer for a long time to come. Surcharges, special or "environmental" tariffs, penalties, etc. requisitions for overexpenditure of electricity in countries that are provided with their own energy resources - mother, do not worry! When it stays + (40-45) in the yard for weeks and months, it is impossible to live normally, and energy bills for air conditioning the whole house come in such that ... think better about democratic values, they are enduring. Moving to a residential basement for the summer either reduces the cost of air conditioning to an acceptable level, or allows you to do without it altogether.

Waterproofing: the beginning

The basement under the house will only be a boon when it is dry and does not violate the stability of the entire structure. Both of these factors are interrelated, because. a house with a basement often begins to lean and / or settle just as a result of a violation of the underground flow by a rigid box deeply buried in the ground: the natural movement of groundwater is disturbed, see Fig .:

As a consequence, the mobility and bearing properties of the soil also change. There are cases when a house with a basement, built on dry dense loam, had to be abandoned - a quicksand crawled under it due to the influence of an improperly built basement.

The ways of penetration of soil moisture into the basement are varied, and 100% effective ways drain the stale basement no. Basement dampness and the whole house will make uncomfortable and unhealthy. But you also need to think about the effect of the basement on the underground runoff. The only way to prevent such a Gordian knot from tying is the correct design of the basement and its reliable external waterproofing. The choice of design is directly related to the properties of the structural material. Therefore, in order to properly build a house with a basement, its development must be carried out in the following sequence:

• Choice of construction material;
• Choice of power circuits in plan and section;
• The choice of method and scheme of waterproofing;
• Determining the composition of the basement arrangement;
• Choice of construction technique.

Note: if the basement gets wet, but the house with it still stands, then there are ways to dry the basement, see below. Such a basement will not be suitable for housing and stationary electrification, drying will have to be repeated every 3-5 years, but as a food storage and / or location of non-volatile heating appliances serve.

materials

It is possible to make a basement from materials capable of withstanding a lateral soil pressure of 20 bar (2 kgf / sq. cm or 20 tf / sq. m) and a pressure of formation water of 10 bar (1 kgf / sq. cm or 10 tf / sq. m) .m). These conditions correspond to the strength grade from M200 and the water resistance grade from W10. Of course, the greater the margin for both parameters, the more reliable the basement will be.

Independent developers usually build basements with reinforced concrete monolithic (pos. 1 in the figure), prefabricated from concrete foundation blocks with a monolithic base (pos. 2), brick (pos. 3), monolithic with a brick plinth (pos. 4) or from cinder blocks, pos. 5.

The “brick on concrete” option is durable enough if the base is made of burnt iron brick or clinker brick: the front outer brick is not designed to carry the weight load from the building; its service life is up to 40 years, and a house with a basement is built for generations. The red working brick in the immediate vicinity of the ground begins to crumble within 25 years, and completely loses its load-bearing properties in 50-60 years. Iron ore and clinker will stand in the plinth of the century, but they are not aesthetic. In general, the basement at pos. 4 is not an option. For beauty, it would be easier, more reliable and cheaper to fill in a monolith and veneer it to taste.

The suitability of certain materials for building a basement is shown in the figure:

As you can see, they can be divided into 3 groups:

1. Unsuitable.
2. Conditionally suitable for structured soils (dense sandy loam, light loam), if the GWL does not rise closer than 0.2 m to the bottom of the basement floor.
3. Suitable.

I group

Unambiguous "losers" - foam and aerated concrete, and their low bearing capacity is not the most important thing here. Let's say the natural wear of concrete is 0.01 mm per year. This is an insignificant amount; in the ground it is much more. The minimum layer of concrete over the reinforcement is 40 mm. In order for the reinforcement to begin to be massively exposed and thus the structure required a major overhaul, in the absence of other destructive factors, 4000 years must pass. We also assume that the bridges between the pores of foam and aerated concrete are thick, 1 mm; they are usually thinner. With the same wear in 25 years, the material will lose 50% of its strength (the lintels are destroyed from 2 sides) - major repairs are impossible, the structure has become unusable. After another 10-15 years, it will begin to spontaneously collapse without the possibility of recovery. For this reason, in Southern Europe (most of all in Spain), thousands of houses, once built for seasonal rental, are now being sold “for how much they will give”. Their appearance is still chic, but their lifespan is ending, and there is no way to restore it.

This also includes silicate brick and expanded clay concrete. The first one in the ground crumbles literally before our eyes, it is expensive and requires quite high skills to work with it. The second one is cheap, it is easier to work with it, but, alas, it gets wet through, and it is impossible to isolate it reliably, there are no such methods and compositions.

II group

From this group, it is better not to use red brick and poor concrete for the foundation under the house: they crumble in the ground and repair is often impossible. Clinker bricks are quite reliable, durable up to 150 years or more, easily insulated, but expensive. Burnt brick-iron ore is a little inferior to it and is cheap, but it does not go on sale regularly, because. is a manufacturing defect. But a cinder block basement, due to its cheapness and ease of working with it, is quite common, see video:

Video: building a “box” of a cinder block basement

An important advantage of the cinder block basement is that it is light and the house with it gives a normal draft on rather weak soils with a bearing capacity of> 0.7 kgf / sq. see It is possible to build a basement from a cinder block not only on dry ground. It can be quite suitable for economic purposes if the soil water is above the level of the basement floor for no more than 6 months. per year, and the formation pressure does not exceed 10 bar; in most cases of self-building, these conditions are met. But, firstly, measures for waterproofing the walls of the basement must begin to be carried out already at the stage of their construction, steadily observing all the rules of cinder block masonry, see the video:

Video: cinder block masonry basics

Secondly, waterproofing must be done the same as for walls made of bricks or foundation blocks, but reinforced: both paint with bituminous compounds, and pasting, see below. And instead of gluing materials on a textile basis, use roofing paper on cellulose (cardboard). Looking ahead, the principle of operation of insulation based on natural bitumen is as follows: if, after many years, the structure isolated by it is dismantled, not a trace of the original insulator is found. Bitumen from it is pressed into concrete, on which a waterproof crust has formed. The pores of the cinder block are much wider than in concrete, and the cellulose fibers from the base of the roofing sheet will become a reinforcing filling for the bitumen in them.

How to isolate cinder block

How the cinder block basement waterproofing is arranged is shown in fig. on right. Since there is no and cannot be any guarantee for the level of standing groundwater, it is better to replace backfilling with soil with a clay castle (highlighted in color) with a removal at the top of 0.5 m beyond the contour of the blind area. Its presence around the house, as well as heels with a removal of 0.4 m under the foundation tape, is an indispensable condition for the reliability of waterproofing a cinder block basement.

Pasting (sheet) insulation in this case is applied in the reverse order to the generally accepted one - from top to bottom. It is more convenient to work this way, using a device in the form of a tragus with a stick or a piece of pipe laid in it, on which a roll of roofing is put on. The tragus is placed on the foundation tape, and then:

1. A section of the wall is painted over to a width of a roll + (15-20) cm with liquid bituminous mastic-prime (primary) on a gasoline thinner. It is better to apply prime mastic with a wide, hard brush, pressing into the wall material;
2. They smear the same area with bituminous mastic on anthracene oil - it is thicker, stickier and dries more slowly than on gasoline. Layer - 3-4 mm;
3. A piece of roofing sheet is wound from the roll to the bottom with a small margin;
4. The insulator is rolled to the coating, going from bottom to top and squeezing out bubbles;
5. The cut is cut with some margin;
6. The tragus is rearranged so that the overlap of the cuts is 20-25 cm;
7. Repeat paragraphs. 1-6 on a new section of the wall with an offset of 15-20 cm beyond the width of the roofing strip;
8. The joint of the sheets is heated gas burner and rolled according to paragraph 4;
9. Repeat paragraphs. 1-8 until they reach the corner;
10. At the corner, they paint over and coat the adjacent wall, the removal of the roofing around the corner is cut across at the top and bottom;
11. The wing of the insulator is not very warm from the outside and softly wrapped around the corner;
12. The wrapping is heated and rolled according to clause 4;
13. Repeat the work cycle until the entire building is bypassed;
14. Apply the 2nd layer of adhesive insulation in a similar way;
15. An external safety layer of paint insulation is applied from the same mastic;
16. They backfill the soil or put a clay castle.

To a beginner, this whole procedure will seem very laborious, but any reliable pressure-proof insulation is no easier to do. But a cinder block basement will cost 1.5-2.5 times cheaper than concrete or brick.

At the same time about the brick

The insulation described above does not provide 100% protection of the brick basement from dampness - the pores of the brick are thinner than the cinder block, and the bitumen is pressed into them poorly. It is better to insulate the walls of a brick basement with modern penetrating materials with the effect deep penetration(see below). Typical scheme their insulation of a brick wall is given in Fig.:

Plastering the wall on the mesh for insulation is mandatory: penetrates reliably fill cracks up to 0.4 mm, and in brick wall may become wider. The role of a clay lock, which does not let capillary moisture into the concrete-brick seam, is played by plugs from Penekrit in a strobe 25x50 mm and Penekrit with Penetron in the holes of the concrete heel. The disadvantage of this scheme is that penetrates are not eternal, like natural bitumen; after 10-30 years, the insulation will have to be replaced.

Repair of a damp concrete basement with deep penetration compounds

Note 2: if a previously dry concrete basement began to dampen with a drop on the walls and floor (the underground drain has changed), it can be repaired with Penekrit with Penetron for 5-20 years, see fig. on right. Shtroba - 25X25 mm. The insulation is plastered with moisture-resistant plaster in 2 layers of 15-20 mm each with a reinforcing mesh (see above) to avoid swelling of the insulating layer by capillary pressure. Work is carried out during the driest time of the year. The basement is pre-dried, see below, and immediately before applying the insulation it is wetted twice with a wide soft brush.

III group

AT Materials III groups by a wide margin is high-strength moisture-resistant concrete. Only from it can you build a dry basement on watered soil, without doing such a complex and technically not always feasible thing as site drainage. It is enough to apply inexpensive (and very durable) bituminous insulation, see next. fig., and the basement will not dampen the generations of residents, no matter how the groundwater “walks”.

A big minus of the concrete basement is the emergency work on pouring and technical breaks for the monolith to gain strength; building on your own, you can simply not be in time for the season. In addition, concrete M400 W>10 is not cheap, and the concrete truck will not arrive exactly at the time you set. Most likely, it will be assigned to you, and even you will have to wait.

The way out is the construction of a basement from ready-made foundation blocks. 2-3% by volume of liquid glass is added to the water for masonry mortar. It is better to buy ready-made blocks, they are already M (400-600) W (20-3). Block 200x200x400 is turned by one person. The laying is then carried out in 2 blocks with dressing of the seams and alternating spoon rows with bonder rows, like a brick wall. Corner "semi-blocks" are not chipped or cut off - let them stick out half into the ground, the whole structure will only be more stable. If there are 2-3 strong assistants and at least a hoist, it is even better to purchase blocks of 400x400x800 - they are with a tooth and the masonry will be very strong. In this case, it is led into one block with dressing of the seams in rows.

Foundation blocks on reinforced concrete structures undergo steaming, which is not feasible at home. But, let it be known to you that the exposure is from 3 months. blocks that have gained 25% strength in a stack under the film completely replaces it. The rows in the stack must be shifted with pieces of wood so that there are gaps of 20-30 mm between them; in hot, dry weather, the stack is wrapped in damp burlap. And do-it-yourself high-strength concrete can also be prepared by hand kneading, see the plot:

Video: manual concrete production

The construction of a basement, especially in an existing house, can generally be considered the third thing that does not tolerate haste. Then - the first year we are preparing slowly the required number of blocks; next summer we are building again without rush work. Blocks can be cast not typical, within one's strength and with a tooth - the finished masonry will withstand a pressure of more than 30 bar. What about W? In production, liquid glass is mixed into the concrete mass in special devices, which, again, cannot be done at home. But self-builders successfully prepare moisture-resistant concrete at W (10-15) with the well-known repair compound Dehydrol, see the video:

Video: how to make hydraulic concrete

Note: self-made hydroconcrete does not guarantee against the penetration of capillary moisture, therefore, external anti-pressure insulation must be supplemented with internal anti-capillary insulation from the same Dehydrol, see fig. Also, inside the entire basement is plastered with armoring insulation made of cement-sand plaster, see above.

Power Circuits

The basement waterproofing scheme is tied to its general power (carrier) scheme. It is also developed, depending on local conditions, first in section and then in plan.

Possible power circuits of makeshift basements in the context are given in the figure:

A basement on a slab is built on weak homogeneous soils: a large bearing area gives a low specific pressure on the soil and distributes the weight load more evenly over it. In fact, the entire building in this case stands on a deeply buried slab foundation. The removal of the slab along the contour is needed no less than the thickness of the basement walls (foundation tape), otherwise weight loads will be concentrated on the edge of the slab, it will crumble over time, and the whole house will sag crookedly. Also, basements on soft soils float more easily, see below; "side hook" counteracts this. The slab is poured with the onset of stable warm weather, withstands up to 50% strength (at least 20 days) and is built on it from any other suitable material. If the seasonal standing of groundwater is possible above 0.6 m above the level of the sole (not the floor!) Of the basement, the slab is poured one and a half thickness (from 300 mm) with a tooth a third of the height, see below.

A basement on a tape is built, on the contrary, on dense, well-bearing (from 1.7 kgf / sq. Cm), and, possibly, heterogeneous soils: a slab from a boulder that fell at an angle to it during precipitation will dangerously tilt; the tape will either push it down or push it to the side. On dense homogeneous non-rocky or slightly heaving soils, if the house has been established without disturbance for at least 3-5 years, it is possible to build a foundation on a tape in an existing house. A typical scheme is given in fig. on the right, but in each case the construction is carried out according to an individual project based on on-site research.

If the basement on the tape is being built at the same time as the house, then the emergency concreting cycles are not tied to each other: the pouring of the permanent floor can and even needs to be (see below) postponed until next year. In any case, the removal of the heel of the tape to the side must be at least 0.6 m in order to "disperse" the load from the force of soil resistance to the settling building (shown in red dotted line), otherwise the floor can simply be squeezed up.

Temporary floor

It is advisable to leave the basement on the tape without a floor for a year, if the groundwater level does not rise above 0.2 m under the basement base, so that the building gives an initial draft and the permanent floor does not exactly kick out. In the meantime, you can lay a temporary floor, like laying floors on the ground.

Schemes for flooring on the ground are given on the left in the figure:

Pos. A is applicable if the soil water does not rise above 0.6 m to the basement basement; pos. B - if they reach 0.2 m below it. In the case when the utility cellar on the tape remains dry for more than 3 years, a warm dirt floor is often laid in it, on the right in rice: this way vegetables and fruits are stored longer and spoil less. Plant products in storage release ethylene, which stimulates their ripening; without ethylene, products "sleep". Ethylene is slightly heavier than air and is not completely removed by normal basement ventilation (see below); there are many cases of ethylene poisoning of people who have been in food cellars for a long time. Ethylene, on the contrary, eagerly absorbs, you just need to make the bins ventilated and on stands from 15-20 cm. In addition, homemade kvass, liqueurs, wine, beer, mead in a basement with a dirt floor ripen better and turn out to be much tastier.

Note: basements on slab and tape are suitable for installation of boiler equipment and electrification for housing only after at least 3 years after the completion of the construction of the entire house, if during this time there were no signs of dampness of the basement and / or uneven settlement of the building.

A basement-caisson made of moisture-resistant concrete with external anti-pressure insulation will be dry on any soil, even if it floats in water - during the Second World War, even sea ships were built from reinforced concrete. The coffered basement is also compatible with any building, see below. But its construction is a continuous complex emergency job, see below. And on light, loose, heavily watered soils, the basement-caisson can suddenly emerge. Basements on the slab and the tape let you know about the unfavorable underground runoff by dampening in spite of any insulation - the working and masonry seams are torn - and the caisson can literally float up and fall on its side along with the house in just a week. Therefore, caisson basements are not recommended to be built at the highest groundwater level of more than 0.6 m above the basement floor, and the box should be taken out from 0.6 m on medium and dense soils and from 0.8 m on light ones.

The power scheme of the basement in the plan is already linked not only with the ground, but also with the structure of the building. Its possible options for self-building are shown in Fig. below. The basement floor (pos. 1) is the only one that allows you to immediately equip a boiler room and a house communications wiring unit in the basement (on the left in the figure at the beginning); in this case, it is built coffered. The important thing here is that there must be a window in the boiler room, and the walls of the caisson and the basement of the building are a single monolith.

An incomplete basement floor is built less frequently - savings on earthworks are more than eaten up by an excess of concrete. Typical justified cases are heavy, complex and expensive soil to develop (pos. 1a) or a light loose spot is found on heavy soil, suitable in size for a basement, pos. 1b. In this case, on the contrary, it is in no way possible to build a basement-caisson or on a slab, only on a tape! The caisson is not recommended for pos. 1a, so you will have to wait several years before moving the boiler house to the basement or equipping it for housing.

Note: an incomplete basement floor and a basement mezzanine are two different things. In the basement mezzanine, it is possible to install an external entrance door, buried in the pit by no more than 3-4 steps.

Even less often, basements are built adjacent to the foundation of an existing house (item 2 in the figure above) - there is a high risk of a new uneven settlement of the building. If the pros are building according to the project, then the owner and operator give a subscription that the damage from all possible consequences take over. In an existing house, it is better to build a “floating” basement, at least 1 m away from the foundation tape of the house, pos. 3. Its power circuit in the section is possible in any way, however, you will have to spend money on a separate basement floor, between which and the floor floor of the house you need a free clearance of 0.3 m, i.e. and the basement pit needs to be dug deeper. The reason is the difference in the speed and magnitude of the draft of 2 separate buildings nested one into the other.

Get by with a smaller total volume of earth and concrete work, as well as a common overlap, you can build a connected basement - connected to the foundation of the house with rigid reinforced concrete lintels the width of the foundation tape. They are buried, like the tape of the foundation of the house, but the norm, > 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth (NGP), and the basement walls - as needed so that you can walk in it to your full height (1.9-2.2 m + floor thickness + cushion thickness under the floor). As a result, the difference in specific pressures on the soil of the foundation of the house and the walls of the basement turns out to be a value that jumpers up to 1-1.5 m long can accept.

The T-shaped scheme (pos. 4) is used on light pliable homogeneous soils; H-shaped (pos. 5) on light heterogeneous and medium, and cellular (pos. 6) - on medium heterogeneous and heavy homogeneous. In any case, a connected basement is built only and only on a tape - on a slab or a caisson, it will tear the lintels and destroy the foundation of the building. Common Mistakes when developing schemes of connections between the foundation and the basement are as follows:

• The corners of the basement adjacent to the connected corners are left hanging (pos. 7).
• The connection scheme is made asymmetrical with respect to both axes of the foundation plan (pos. 8) or centrally symmetrical (pos. 9).
• The corner of the basement box is connected to the corner of the foundation, pos. ten.

The latter is especially dangerous for the integrity and stability of the entire structure. In the case, as in pos. 10, it would be necessary either to change the layout of the house with a basement to symmetry at least along one axis, pos. 11, or, better, without changing the plan, tie internal corners foundation with a lintel, and make the basement an incomplete basement floor, pos. 12.

Waterproofing

In the process of developing basement waterproofing, its scheme is first selected in relation to a given structure in given specific conditions, and then suitable materials. Water is an insidious element and it is impossible to protect yourself from its penetration for decades with a single obstacle. A typical case in individual construction is when, at the seasonal peak of dryness, the GWL drops below the basement floor by 0.2 m or more, and at the peak of moisture rises to the level of the humus layer; the most fertile soil layer is considered to be constantly moistened, but does not create any significant flow and pressure of moisture on the structure.

Under these conditions, the only reliable is the external anti-pressure waterproofing. Non-pressure only from surface runoff does not guarantee the dryness of the basement, because, firstly, in rainy years, the pressure of surface water can become significant. Secondly, the most underground flow under the building may change, see above. Internal anti-capillary insulation and armor holding it may be required for a stable lower standing of the groundwater level at the level of the basement floor and above, see below.

External waterproofing of the basement is carried out in general in 2 ways: cut-off (cut-off), on the left in the figure, and diverting (outlet), on the right:

If a building with a basement stands on permeable soil (pebbles, gravel, cartilage, sand, sandy loam, loose loam), then cut-off insulation can be made without drainage; in this case, the clay castle is continued down to a level of -(0.25-0.3) m below the base of the basement floor cushion. This is its great advantage - it does not need expensive and laborious drainage system. If the basement is built of hydroconcrete, then the walls are plastered on the outside with cement-sand plaster for insulation, and instead of a clay castle, backfilling is carried out with excavated soil. This is the second advantage of cut-off insulation - self-digging clay is not suitable for a lock, you need to buy construction, and a lot.

Disadvantages of cut-off insulation, firstly, a large amount of excavation. Secondly, they are not always technically feasible - nearby buildings may not allow choosing a pit of the desired profile (see below). Thirdly, clay is an obstacle for moisture, but not a deaf barrier. It reduces the flow and pressure of water on the wall, but does not stop it completely. Therefore, external insulation is needed full-fledged (prime + coating + flooring), and if the basement is cinder block or brick, then reinforced, see above. Fourthly, cut-off insulation is applied only in its entirety, at least within the wall, since the joints of the flooring sheets need to be glued and heated, so arranging it on an existing house is very problematic - it is impossible to dig out any of its walls completely without risking the stability of the entire structure.

Drainage insulation works only in conjunction with drainage: its basis is a membrane with a reverse capillary effect that collects moisture and removes it to the drainage. The membrane itself is glued to the wall instead of the cut-off insulation sheeting and is protected from rapid soil clogging with geotextiles. The main advantage of diversion insulation is minimal or no impact on the underground runoff under the house; cut-off insulation even with drainage changes it, therefore it is recommended to isolate the basements of houses on soils with complex unstable hydrology with a membrane. Additional, firstly, a pit for cut-off insulation is needed with a width less than the removal of the blind area (practically 0.6-0.8 m is enough, if only the worker could squeeze into it). Secondly, it is possible to isolate in pieces with a width of about 1.5 membrane panels. Therefore, the basements of existing houses can almost always be insulated only by a diversion method.

The disadvantages of drainage waterproofing are also very serious. The first is an even greater volume and complexity of earthworks, only related. Building a site drainage is a serious matter, and finding a place under the drainage discharge field is also far from always possible. Second, the best membranes last up to 20 years; more often - 10-12 years, and on heavily watered loose soils for 3-7 years. If you intend to insulate the basement with a membrane, be prepared to dig the house and change it at such intervals.

When needed inside

If UGV is more than 3 months. in a year it is flush with the basement floor or rises higher, the external anti-pressure waterproofing is supplemented by the internal anti-capillary. Concrete, not to mention brick, is not a solid monolith. Its microstructure is the smallest grains of cement, similar to sea urchins, the needles of which are silicate crystals. These “needles” cement grains are linked together, and the gaps are filled with sand and, in hydro concrete, hardened liquid glass (which is also silicate), and in moisture-resistant polymer additives. In both cases, micropores remain; the polymer also decomposes in 3-15 years, and under pressure, concrete passes moisture a little. It is imperceptible in the hydroelectric dam, but very much in the basement.

Options for internal anti-capillary waterproofing of the basement are shown in fig. on pos. In and D, external insulation is conditionally not shown, but it is needed here as well. Seam insulation on pos. B - at least 4 layers of roofing material, glued with prime liquid mastic and heated with a burner. It is impossible to isolate the seam with a thin solution - it will leak. Tolem or roofing bituminous insulation (hydrobutyl, etc.) is also impossible - the wall will squeeze and squeeze out of it. Steklorubit, etc. based on fiberglass, the weight of the wall, on the contrary, will not crush - the base will remain uncrushed and capillary moisture will go through it, so it’s also impossible. Pressure wall on pos. B - plastering on the grid with a cement-sand mortar, see above.

Insulating materials

Roof and wall waterproofers are not suitable for the basement - they are not designed to withstand the pressure of the soil and the pressure of formation waters. According to the method of application and purpose, materials for basement waterproofing are divided into:

• Primary, or primes, or impregnating - liquid mastics applied to a prepared surface (see below) to create a base for coating with other materials.
• Painting or coating - more viscous adhesive compositions, used either separately, or as a base holding overhead sheet insulation, or, again together with prime, for anti-capillary lubrication inside. In the latter case, after plastering, the walls are plastered over the mesh with any moisture-resistant plaster in one layer.
• Cement-filled thick-layer mastics - designed for coating up to 20 mm thick only on the sides facing the pressure. They are used instead of overhead materials in cases where the groundwater level does not reach the basement floor for more than 9 months. in a year.
• Overhead or pasting - sheet flexible or soft materials on a woven or fibrous base, impregnated with the insulator itself. The most versatile and most reliable insulator. They are also superimposed only on the sides facing the pressure water.
• Capillary membranes - a special coating with a reverse capillary effect is applied to the waterproof plastic base, see above.

The insulating beginning of these materials, except for membrane ones, can be as follows:

1. Bitumen - still unsurpassed in durability, but difficult to work with. How bituminous waterproofing works, see above. It is produced in the form of primary mastics on a gasoline diluent (primes), coating mastics, thick-layer mastics and overhead materials. Armor insulation is almost never required; if yes, then cement-sand plaster. Holds on any wall (concrete, brick). Penetration into concrete up to 30 mm (more often - 7-15 mm), so the treated surface loses its water resistance in case of mechanical damage.
2. Bitumen-nairite mastics are frost-resistant, can be applied at temperatures down to -(15-25) degrees. Layer - up to 6 mm. Tighten cracks up to 30-50 mm wide, because they foam in the air, so the opened package must be worked out within the period indicated on it (or in the instructions). The coating retains plasticity up to -(45-60) degrees. Service life - 10-25 years. A specific material for northern construction or complex repairs of very dilapidated buildings.
3. Epoxy, epoxy-tar and epoxy-furan mastics are an even more specific material for waterproofing building structures that are regularly flooded up to full immersion in water, freezing and icing unheated. Fragile, after 3-5 years require a complete replacement. In the work are complex, toxic, carcinogenic.
4. natural elastomers ( liquid rubber) - it is easy to work with them, but they are applicable only as repairs for internal insulation. Only brick and cinder block fit well. The term for updating waterproofing with natural elastomers is 1-5 years, depending on local conditions. Mandatory armor insulation of at least 2 layers of cement-sand plaster on the grid, because. easily swell and exfoliate by capillary pressure. In general, an ambulance to a damp basement, until the hands and wallet reach a more serious repair.
5. Synthetic elastomers - polyurethane, silicone, MS-plastics. They act similarly to bitumen, but penetrate deeper into concrete, up to 100 mm. After 7-20 years, the insulation needs to be renewed. For repairs from the inside, they are applied to a dried and abundantly moistened surface immediately before processing, see below.
6. Penetrating (deeply penetrating) compositions - synthetic elastomers + cement + polymer additives. Produced in the form of mastics for painting with a thick layer. The work is simple. They are used for external insulation only. They are pressed into gaps up to 0.4 mm (polyurethane) or up to 10 mm (on silicone or MS) to a depth of 100 mm and clog them with cement that recrystallizes under the action of moisture. The surface to be applied must be leveled to +/-(2 mm) and thoroughly free from dust. Bituminous pasting materials do not hold on to themselves. Reservation insulation, if required - cement-sand plaster on the grid. Service life - 10-30 years. Capillary moisture is not cut off 100%, therefore, bituminous anti-capillary insulation inside is almost always needed.

What if he got wet?

Since we are talking about repairing an existing damp basement, it would be appropriate to mention sets of compositions for it. Their components are prepared, as a rule, on a different basis, but are coordinated among themselves in terms of physicochemical properties. Therefore, the repair of a damp basement from the inside must be done with compositions from one reputable manufacturer.

For an example in fig. it is shown how basements of various designs are insulated inside with compounds from the well-known Dehydrol kit. Shtroba wherever needed - 25x25 mm. Surface preparation - according to the instructions for acc. composition. Dehydrol 10-2 is also successfully used to make homemade waterproof concrete, see above.

How to dry a basement

Bituminous waterproofing mastics are applied to a dry surface. When they write that penetrating compounds must be applied to wet, this is correct. But when they add that it is better for freshly poured concrete, this is fundamentally wrong. Capillary moisture in the wall, prepared for processing with penetrates, should go deep into the dry mass and, as it were, pull the insulator along with it. If the mass of concrete is saturated with water, it will flow out through the capillaries and, conversely, squeeze out the insulator. The depth of its penetration into the wall will be, at best, much less than the calculated one; resp. the service life will also decrease, tk. the destruction of the composition is outside under the action of air.

A damp basement must be thoroughly dried before repair, and immediately before processing, moisten the walls and floor several times with water using a soft plaster brush. Wetting with a roller gives the worst effect, and spraying is even worse, because. the air is excessively moistened and capillary moisture no longer actively seeks to go into the concrete mass.

Dry the basement with a stream warm air useless - it will not dry until it starts to “sweat” again in the fall. It is necessary to dry with thermal (infrared, IR) radiation. But not “far” from an electric fireplace or a nichrome “goat” (which is dangerous), but “nearby” - incandescent lamps give it in excess, which is why they go out of use. Near infrared penetrates deeply into concrete and brick, almost not being absorbed in the air. Bulbs need to be hung with more garlands at the rate of 60-100 W per 1 cubic meter. m basement. If a control pit is hammered near its wall, then most often after 10-12 days of continuous drying of the IR, it turns out that the soil around has already begun to dry. In any case, after a week it is already possible to apply penetrates or smear with bitumen. In no case will it hurt to dry longer - how much patience is enough to watch how the electricity meter winds.

Repair not for your hands

Sometimes it is possible to dry a damp basement only by injecting special compounds into the surrounding soil, see fig. on right. For example, if a quicksand crawled under the house, then the whole structure must be saved. But in this case, an irregularly shaped body is formed in the ground, and it is definitely impossible to predict the further settlement of the structure. Therefore, only specialized organizations are engaged in injections into the soil based on the results of on-site research, and they take a subscription from the customer and the owner of the building that they take on any consequences.

Arrangement

This section is not about 3D wallpaper, bar, HD TV, jacuzzi or 3-bed under a mirror on the ceiling. All this and more is up to you. Mandatory and, for residential and technical, desirable arrangement of the basement consists of:

• Ventilation is a must.
• Entrance with stairs is a must.
• Entrance hatch - if the staircase is steep.
• Insulation - for residential and technical basement.
• Surface drainage - in areas with heavy rainfall in the warm season.

Ventilation

Ventilation is vital for any basement. almost all harmful, poisonous and many explosive gases are heavier than air and flow down. For the same reason, basements are built with non-volatile natural supply and exhaust ventilation.

The basement ventilation device under the house is quite simple, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig.:

The cross-sectional area of ​​the lumen of the branch pipes is 5 sq. cm for each cubic meter of basement volume, but its diameter in any case is from 60 mm. Instead of a mesh from rodents, it is better to put a filter on the inlet pipe, on the right in Fig. Flow-through with filter media (pos. 3) protects, in addition to dust, from insects, but requires regular inspection and replacement of the media. Aerodynamic (pos. 4) is cleaned as needed, you only need to attach a strip of newsprint, etc., to the mouth of the inlet pipe in the basement. flow indicator: when the air filter is clogged, the air flow stops very abruptly. But especially harmful and cunning mosquitoes with flies make their way through it.

If the basement is next to the house, then make it high exhaust pipe difficult and not always possible. In this case, the basement ventilation is built according to the scheme in Fig. on right. Minimum nozzle diameter 100 mm; for a basement of more than 10 cubic meters, a cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200b10 square meters. see per cubic meter of volume. In the basement, between the supply and exhaust pipes, there should be no obstacles to the movement of air. The upper ends of the pipes are bent with a goose from rain and snow.

Stairs

The staircase to the basement is one of the most common causes of domestic injuries, so the most careful attention should be paid to its design. From this point of view, stairs are divided into ascending and steeply inclined. On the first one, you can climb / lower with a load in your hands, without holding on to the railing, and it’s generally undesirable to walk along steeply inclined ones - awkwardly stepping or swaying, you can crash, leaning back. With a load in one hand, they generally climb a steeply inclined staircase, grabbing the railing or upper steps with the other.

The design of the stairs can be any of those shown on the left in Fig. The most convenient in terms of saving usable space are highlighted in color:

On the right in fig. the calculated ratios for them are given, and here there is a nuance: since the height of the ascent and descent into the basement is small, a staircase with an inclination of up to 50 degrees will be quite comfortable. tg 50 is almost exactly equal to 1.2, which makes it easier to calculate, based on the fact that the minimum width of the tread of the stairs is 180 mm, and the maximum allowable height is 230 mm. Let's say the height of the descent to the basement is 2.2 m, counting from the top of the ceiling (see below). At this height, an integer number of steps should fit, we take 10. The height of the step is then 220 mm. Divide by 1.2, we get 183 mm - suitable. The removal of the stairs in the plan will be 183x10 = 1.83 m, which is also not bad. The area under the stairs, with a minimum allowable width of 0.8 m - 1.83X0.8 = 1.464 sq. m.

About erroneous stairs

What you don’t have to be smart with the basement staircase is, firstly, to do it on a string (one stringer) with hanging steps, pos. 1 in the figure, such stairs are extremely traumatic:

Secondly, pour the concrete stairs in place, pos. 2. Ready-made concrete stairs are a real monolith, they are poured entirely into a detachable form. There are no working concreting joints in them, and when pouring with a “self-made” they are inevitable: the upper stage cannot be poured until the lower one has seized. The seams are weak, in the basement they soon crack, and as a result, homemade concrete staircase in the basement serves less wood.

Basement stairs

In a dry basement, a wooden staircase serves no less than himself. A properly made wooden staircase does not suddenly collapse, and before the steps begin to rot, it lets you know about the violation of the structure by creaking.

The device of a wooden ladder for the basement is shown in the figure:

Instead of cutouts in the inner bowstring, you can fill it with fillies from a board or, better, thick plywood under the treads of steps, pos. a. However, the collapse of rotten wooden basement stairs in a damp basement is also common in domestic injuries, so it is better to attach the treads to steel or concrete stringer beams. The cross-sectional dimensions of the concrete stringer are from 100 mm wide and from 150 mm high. Steel - channel from 100 mm or I-beam from 80 mm.

Methods for attaching wooden treads to steel and concrete stringers are shown in the figure:

Dowels for fastening to concrete are made from pieces of 8-18 mm corrugated rebar. Deepening in concrete from 60 mm; in a tree from 30 mm. Holes in fillies for landing on dowels are drilled 2-2.5 mm narrower; fillies are impaled with blows of a mallet. Mounting the treads on the legs allows you to simply arrange the railing: the reinforcements are released upwards to the height of the railing, and for the supports of the treads and balusters, pipe sections are put on them; can be plastic. It is best to attach the treads to the strip - they will not rot even in a damp basement.

In the case when there is not even one and a half squares under the stairs, here in fig there are drawings of a wooden steep staircase for the basement. It will definitely need a hatch, see below.

Note: all details wooden stairs to the basement, before assembly into the product, they must be impregnated with an oily water-repellent composition (it can be worked off), and the finished staircase is varnished with acrylic varnish for outdoor use or painted with moisture-resistant paint. The best thing - acrylic enamel for baths.

Entrance and hatch

There is often no place for a climbing staircase to the basement under a private house, and then the entrance to it is made from the outside. So it is generally necessary if a ready-made concrete staircase is purchased for the basement - they are not made with a slope of more than 40 degrees. Then, firstly, the entrance to the basement must be protected from precipitation by a canopy, see fig. on right. The overhang of the roof of the canopy should protrude forward above the edge of the upper step by less than 30 cm, and on the sides and rear - from 15 cm. Secondly, the upper step should protrude above the ground or blind area by at least 70 mm, and the opening of the basement door should be with a threshold of 90 mm. Both are necessary so that rain and melt water does not penetrate into the basement. It is better to make a threshold with a height of 120-130 mm, attaching ramps with a width of 400 mm or more to it on both sides.

The hatch to the basement is also a thing not so simple. “Lada” from boards with a rope now, probably, no one is doing anymore - there is a wide range of ready-made basement hatches on sale. In the ceiling (see below), they are immured with a cement-sand mortar, and the price is next. way:

• Non-automatic with a mechanical stop, sort of like the old sofa beds: pulled, raised - snapped into place. It is necessary to close - pulled up, snapped off, lowered.
• Semi-automatic in a spring-lever mechanism - pulled all the way, kept open. It is necessary to close - pushed down, sank.
• Semi-automatic with a pneumatic lift - pulled a little up, opened. It is necessary to close - pushed down, he smoothly closed.
• Automatic with a pneumatic lift - stepped firmly on the edge of the lid, removed his foot - it opened. To close, lightly push the lid down, closes.

In terms of ease of use, both semi-automatics are equivalent, but automatic ones are nothing more than a marketing gimmick without regard for safety. Let's imagine that furniture is brought into the house. The riggers (or you and an assistant) are carrying a closet. The front one steps on the hatch, it opens. The rear one does not see what is under his feet, and he is not up to it - he falls through, is crippled. If you really want to fork out for the steepness of the basement, take an auto hatch with remote control from the remote control, these are also sold.

Warming

Insulation is necessary for a residential and technical basement. The last - so that the water in the pipes does not freeze, and fuel savings are noted only in insulated bulk boilers. It is also desirable to insulate the basement storage near the house: building structures are good cold bridges in winter, and warm in summer.

The basement must be insulated with sand backfill, see Fig., So that seasonal soil movements do not tear the insulation.

Mineral wool and cellulose insulation, which is excellent in all other respects, are not suitable for basement walls: they cake and collapse under the ground. Granular foam is also bad: under the pressure of soil and formation water, it quickly crumbles into granules. Extruded polyethylene foam (EPS) is more or less stable in the ground; spray applied polyurethane coating lasts more than 10-15 years. They are insulated with one and the other in the usual ways, and before filling the sand cushion, they are protected with cement-sand plaster.

Drainage

In places with heavy rainfall in the warm season, no basement without surface contour drainage at home will always be dry. In other cases, drainage is also useful: it reduces the range of GWL fluctuations, which makes it possible to simplify basement waterproofing and / or increase its effectiveness. Equally important, the impact of a drained house with a basement on underground runoff is reduced significantly. Irregular settlement of such buildings is extremely rare as a result of gross violations of construction. The scheme of the contour surface drainage of a residential building is shown in fig. on right. The discharge field can be placed under a garden or, better, a garden: almost the same atmospheric precipitation is collected in drains, quite suitable for irrigation.

Basement under the garage

The basement in the garage is attractive in that it does not require the withdrawal of land or the complexity of the design of a newly built house. The basement under the existing garage is being built without demolishing the housing. But there are special requirements for the equipment of the basement under the garage, because. explosive vapors of fuels and oils heavier than air; much heavier - in the cold, when they thicken.

Firstly, the hood of the garage basement must be high, rising above the roof by at least 1.5 m, on the left in the figure:

It is unacceptable to display “geese” near the ground! Secondly, the exhaust duct needs an increased cross section, from 15 sq. cm per cube of basement volume or at least 120 mm in diameter. Thirdly, the hood must have an aerodynamically closed type deflector that provides some “cold” draft and in complete calm, for example. TsAGI or Khonzhenkov deflector. Fourthly, in winter, the basement should be warmer than an unheated garage, so that air is taken into the ventilation only from the outside. Therefore, they insulate the basement under the garage from above, like the attic floor of the house, on the right in Fig.

Drivers, of course, will ask: but the machine will not push through this feather bed? More and how. Therefore, in the insulation, it is necessary to provide gaps along the length and lay the ruts in them flush with the floor. It will be necessary to drive into the garage carefully so as not to move out of them. In general, the basement in the garage is not all that attractive; there is a place for a repair pit.

Construction

Building a basement on your own is possible only in dry or seasonally dry soil. In the latter case, all the work of this year must be fully completed before the rise of the GWL. Groundwater pumping is so complicated and expensive that it is rarely used in large-scale construction. The exception is the basement-caisson, which is built upstairs to the side and installed in the pit, but if it is concrete, you need a crane from 20 tons and a team of experienced slingers-riggers. There is, however, an exception to the exception, see at the end. In general, the construction of the basement includes the following. work stages:

• Excavation of the pit;
• Filling the base - slabs or soles of the tape;
• Installation of communication input channels;
• Walling;
• Floor device - on dense ground when the GWL is above its level for no more than 3 months. after at least 6 months. at the end of the annual cycle of work;
• Cover installation;
• Basement equipment, see above.

foundation pit

Build a basement in a pit with vertical walls blunder- it is impossible to make high-quality waterproofing. When insulating an existing basement, the house is dug in pieces, and the finished area is covered before choosing the next one. A typical excavation profile for the construction of a basement is shown in fig. on right. The width of the passage outside of the future wall is at least 75 cm along the bottom. The slope angle is acceptable for this soil.

Base

At this stage, you need to order a concrete truck with reinforced concrete. It's not about the quality of self-mixing, it can be better than the factory one, but in its volume. The working seams of concreting on the base of the basement are highly undesirable, so you need to fill in one bay. It is also wrong to lay the reinforcing cage directly on the sand-gravel pillow - lean preparation is needed for crushed stone, see below. Before pouring, insulation is applied to the preparation with lapels on the sides of the pit 150-200 mm above the thickness of the slab / sole. Concrete is poured into the resulting bowl. Thus, direct contact of concrete with soil is excluded, which, in turn, excludes the formation of holes in the monolith. The fistula may not lead to dampness of the basement, but it will let moisture through to the fittings, and in fact keep the base of the basement on itself and the whole house. After pouring the concrete mass, it is deaerated (deaerated) by piercing each cell of the reinforcement cage in the middle with a rod. After the monolith has set, it is covered with wet burlap, which is kept moist until the base reaches 25% strength; in a typical summer in the Russian Federation, this is approx. a week.

Walls

Basement walls are built according to the usual building technology for this material. If a basement-caisson is being built (see below), the walls are built along with the base. Door and window openings are reinforced with concrete lintels with a height of 80 mm or more with a laying of 120 mm in concrete walls and from 200 mm into brick and cinder blocks. It is impossible to strengthen the openings in the basement with steel or wooden mortgages! Remember again: the basement supports the whole house! When light dry spots appear on the cured drying concrete of the walls, anti-capillary insulation can be applied. On brick and block walls - after 3-4 days of erection to the top.

permanent floor

The permanent floor in the basement on the tape is immediately poured during the construction process after the walls have set at least 25% strength. Under a permanent floor, crushed stone backfill is poured over sand with a lean liquid cement mortar: cement from M400: sand 1:3 - 1:4. Pour to a level of 40-50 mm above the tops of the pebbles. When the filling sets, insulation is applied and the cement:sand:crushed stone 1:3:2 screed is poured with a layer of 70-80 mm. It is possible to lay a clean floor and finish the walls in 2 weeks - a month.

overlap

Ceilings from hollow or box-shaped ready-made slabs of the road and require for the installation of lifting mechanisms with qualified operators. Self-made monolithic overlap is laborious and technologically difficult. He, like the ceilings from hollow core slabs, has a clearly excessive bearing capacity for a private house. Is it possible, having sacrificed it within reasonable limits, to cover the basement with something moderate in price and easier to work with?

In modern individual construction, prefabricated block floors, designed specifically for such a case, are becoming more common. You can compare a monolith with a prefabricated block structure according to the figure:

Insulation of the floor of the house above the basement under the prefabricated block floor in normal climatic conditions is not required or a simplified one is required. Bearing beams are poured together with the bearing belt (see below) in grooved formwork on supports, which are much easier and simpler to make than solid hanging under a monolith.

Laying and belt

It is impossible to build a house with a “box-on-box” basement: at the top of the basement walls you need a large strobe, into which a monolithic ceiling enters, slabs are laid or the supporting belt of a prefabricated block ceiling is poured. In all cases, the minimum wall thickness and the laying of the ceiling in it are different for walls made of different materials.

How much overlap is laid in a wall of concrete or brick is shown in the figure:

Waterproofing is shown conditionally, in the case when the basement ends with the basement of the building with its ceilings. For a cinder wall, the laying is the same as for a brick one, but its distance from the top is at least 2 rows of masonry.

How to build a caisson

The reinforcement cage of the basement caisson is assembled at the top as a whole and installed in the prepared pit (see below) by a crane. It is impossible to assemble the entire frame by welding - the reinforcement will weaken due to metal tempering. Therefore, the frame is first knitted with wire as usual, and then individual joints are welded: at the bottom at the corners of the cells 3x3 or 4x4 cells of the frame, and on the walls in each 3rd or 4th belt.

A pit for a caisson is prepared as for other basements, see above. Further construction goes in the following sequence (see also Fig.):

Note: the concrete walls of the basements on the slab and the tape are also poured according to paragraphs. 7 and 8. Pouring between the boards and the ground is a mistake - what kind of reliable anti-pressure insulation is there.

Couldn't it be sooner?

A very valid question. The construction of an eternally dry, reliable basement is difficult for the inexperienced to eerily in the knees, and even the experienced ones have a headache. The answer is positive: you can buy a ready-made basement-caisson, put it in a pit on a sand and gravel pillow and fill a clay castle (necessarily, otherwise it will pop up). If he (the basement) is needed not under the house, not residential and not technical. Vegetables in the bins will have to be sorted out from time to time, but suppliers optionally offer delivery to the place and installation in the finished pit.

Caissons for basements are produced as steel welded insulated ones with a hatch, stairs, ventilation and fittings for concreting (optional), on the left in fig. Plastic ones are also on sale, but don’t take them - 100% pop up. Caissons for cellars are also cooked by individuals from steel from 8 mm. For a hook on the ground from floating, staples are welded from a strip of 12 mm or more (on the right in the figure), but this is less reliable, and you have to isolate the caisson from corrosion yourself.

It is possible, by the way, to do even cheaper - to make a basement-caisson from a used shipping container. If you cover it with a thick layer of bitumen-cement mastic, it will last at least 100 years in the ground. For a hook on the ground, pipes are threaded into the eyes of the rigging paws at the bottom and an anchor frame is welded to them. Container width - auto dimension 9 feet (2.7 m). Length - 12-70 feet (3.6-21 m); the most running 20 and 40 feet (6 and 12 m). It’s enough for a basement, and how savvy lovers make basements from shipping containers, see the video.

The value of the crop harvested in the country, directly depends on its safety. To insure the family budget from unnecessary expenses and to serve a fresh vitamin crop to the table all winter - these are the main tasks that the cellar performs. No home refrigerator, even the size of a linen closet, can replace it.

The word cellar is most often associated with country house. Here on the veranda or in the kitchen there is a hatch leading to the basement or a shallow pit.

Free-standing cellars outside the house for storing vegetables, fruits and conservation are less common and many summer residents are practically unfamiliar with them. This article will help you evaluate the benefits, study the varieties and understand the features of the construction of such structures.

The difference between a cellar and a cellar

Despite the same purpose, a detached cellar is structurally different from the basement. Placing storage in the open air requires a reliable roof and powerful insulation.

The need to build a cellar on the territory of the cottage arises in two cases:

• With a high level of groundwater.
• For storage of a large volume of fruits and vegetables.

The type of structure depends on the water saturation of the soil. Surface storage is built in cases where it is impossible to go deeper into the ground by more than two or three “bayonets” of a shovel.

If the maximum level of soil water rise is at a depth of 1.5-2.0 meters, then the structure is buried in the ground at half its height. With a deep aquifer, the repository can be completely dug into the ground, leaving a sloping roof covered with sod on the surface.

Entrance to a semi-buried cellar

Someone may say why should I make a cellar in the yard when I can dig it under the floor of the kitchen or veranda? There are several serious objections to this argument.

First. The cellar under the house is best dug during the construction of the building. In the existing dacha, it will be necessary to dismantle the floors, after which, in cramped conditions, manually remove tons of earth.

Second. The construction of a bulk storage under the house can disturb the soil conditions of the foundation and cause the building to settle.

Third. The ground may contain radioactive gas, radon, which will enter living quarters.

Fourth. The dimensions of the basement are limited by the size of the room in which it is arranged. For a street cellar (storage) there are no such limits.

Fifth. In winter, the heat from the house significantly increases the temperature and humidity in the basement, worsening storage conditions and activating the process of potato growth.

General information on the device of the cellar

As we said above, deciding which cellar is better to do depends on the level of groundwater. If they are close to the surface of the earth, then the only way out is ground storage.

Ground cellar - best option for wet ground

Original appearance the ground cellar is liked by lovers of rock gardens and other miniature "mountain ranges" created in the country.

As the “top water” moves away from the surface of the earth, the storage for vegetables and fruits can be lowered deeper.

The lower the water, the deeper the vault

Along with the increase in the depth of the summer cottage, the problems inherent in all underground structures are exacerbated: the need for high-quality drainage, waterproofing of walls and ceilings. To solve them, a trench is dug along the perimeter of the pit, filled with rubble and sand. This reserve "pocket" will collect excess moisture that has fallen into the ground after melting snow or heavy rains. The walls are backfilled not with earth, but with a gravel-sand mixture that drains water into a drainage trench.

Regardless of the quality of the drainage, an outdoor cellar needs waterproofing. Today it is easy to make it. On the market you can find many hydrophobic impregnations and mastics that protect the bottom and walls of the building from soil moisture.

Water protection is needed inside and out

Any summer resident knows that a certain temperature and humidity is required for long-term storage of the crop. In winter, the temperature in the country cellar should be from +2 to + 4C with an air humidity of 80 to 90%. It is easy to control it using a thermometer and a hygrometer. But how to ensure that the room is warm enough and not too damp?

The first problem is solved by warming. In surface and semi-buried storages, this role is played by the soil, with which the walls are lined.

The best natural heat insulator is peat. Unfortunately, it is quite rare. Therefore, having decided to build a cellar in the country house with your own hands, buy polystyrene foam plates 5 or 10 cm thick to insulate the floors and walls. They are covered with earth from above, and fixed to the walls with glue or bituminous mastic. To prevent erosion of the embankment soil, it is sown with grass or covered with layers of turf cut from the soil.

Humidity in storage is regulated by a simple system natural ventilation. It consists of a long supply pipe and a short exhaust pipe.

Pipe A - supply, pipe B - exhaust

There is a very effective and cheap way of accumulating cold in storage - a glacier. Our great-grandfathers successfully used it to store meat and dairy products. This is a shallow pit with ice (in our time, its walls are made not of wood, but of concrete). There is nothing tricky in the design of the glacier, but the return of cold from ice blocks is very impressive and lasts for several months.

What are the cellars?

The simplest cellar is a wooden frame made of logs, on which a slab reel rests. A layer of roofing material is laid on it and soil is poured.

It looks like a wooden vegetable cellar

Wood, even antiseptic, will not stand in a deep storage for more than 15 years. Therefore, most often the walls of the cellars are built of brick, cinder blocks or monolithic reinforced concrete. The ceiling is made from standard hollow core slabs or concrete pouring over the reinforcing cage is used.

Sometimes wooden beams are used for overlapping, between which expanded clay insulation is poured or mineral wool is laid.

Overlapping of a concrete storage from wooden beams

Ceiling insulation with expanded clay

For an in-ground storage of vegetables, in addition to concrete and brick, metal or plastic can be used. A ready-made cellar for a summer residence is a container with stiffeners, which is buried in the ground to a predetermined depth. The metal is treated with bituminous coating before installation. Plastic does not need additional protection.

Metal cellar in the process of installation

During the period of the seasonal rise of the “perch water”, a powerful buoyant force acts on the cellar-caisson (the law of Archimedes). Therefore, a prerequisite for its trouble-free operation is the use of ballast - a monolithic or prefabricated concrete slab. It is placed with a crane or poured at the bottom of the pit before mounting the tank and attached to it with anchors.

When considering purchasing pre-fabricated plastic or metal storage, the following considerations should be taken into account:

• The price of a container for storing fruits and vegetables (with installation) is higher than the cost of building a structure made of concrete or brick.
• Despite the high factory readiness of the caisson, you will not be able to completely abandon earthwork and concrete work (a pit and a ballast plate are necessary).
• Drive the crane onto the equipped country cottage area to install the plate and container without damaging green spaces, paths and fences is problematic.

The only real advantage of plastic and steel construction is absolute tightness - an important factor for a buried cellar.

The average cost of a 5 cubic meter plastic cellar (without installation) is 95 thousand rubles. Installation work will cost 50 thousand rubles.

The estimated price of a metal storage of the same volume (walls made of steel sheet 5 mm thick) is 85 thousand rubles. For installation, you will have to pay at least 45,000 rubles.

Looking for inexpensive option street vegetable store, pay attention to the concrete rings. They are used for septic tanks and other underground structures. Having done concrete base and by installing several rings on it, you will get a reliable shelter for the grown crop.

Factories make not only round, but also rectangular concrete sections

The floor in the cellar of prefabricated rings and its walls must be treated inside and out with a waterproofing compound (coating or impregnation). A prerequisite for tightness is the presence of docking locks on concrete sections.

Underground storage nearing completion

You do not have to manually cast a concrete cover for such a cellar. It can be bought with rings.

If the old slate is lying idle on the farm, then the problem with the cellar can be considered solved. Having made a frame from a corner or pipes, it is lowered into a prepared pit. After that, the slate sheets are fixed with self-tapping screws to the profile.

A slate cellar on a metal frame is a simple and inexpensive option

Having made sand and gravel preparation and installing a reinforcing mesh, the bottom is poured with concrete. The next stage is the laying of electrical wiring, coating the slate and frame with bituminous mastic. The work is completed by concreting the ceiling and backfilling.

Monolithic slate roof

Regardless of the type of material used to build the walls, a well-executed cellar floor design includes several layers indicated in the diagram.

floor construction

In conclusion of our review, we will consider two options for ground-based mini-storages. The first of them is a “box” made of boards with a gable roof and a door. By insulating the space between its outer and inner lining with mineral wool (at least 150 mm thick), you will get an inexpensive and functional storage.

The second version of the ground mini-cellar is a structure attached to the wall of the house. The benefit of this solution is twofold: saving space and one finished wall.

The ceiling here is made of boards covered with crumpled clay and a layer of roofing material. The embankment is made with soil, which, after laying, is moistened, rammed and lined with turf.