Adjustable mounts for log. How to adjust floors. Installation of adjustable floors with straightening board

30.10.2019

Adjustable log supports are one of the most simple ways subfloor leveling. Thanks to this technology, it is possible to avoid "wet" work associated with pouring the screed. This allows you to lay the top coat on the subfloor immediately after installing the wooden lathing of logs and chipboards. The article will discuss the main types of supports suitable for adjusting the height of floor beams, as well as the features of their application.

Design features of adjustable logs

To level the subfloor, not so long ago they began to use not only screeds, but also logs on adjustable supports. What is the working principle of this design? Anchor devices with a screw mechanism are attached to the base material, which can be adjusted in height. After that, the floor beams are set so as to achieve the maximum horizontality of the wooden crate.

In the process of leveling floors, supports of various types and materials can be used. They can be attached to the following types of bases:

wooden beams;
concrete plates;
cement screeds;
reinforced concrete monolith.

Do-it-yourself installation of such systems is undesirable, since it involves precise adjustment of the beams in height. A similar effect can only be achieved with the help of professional devices. The unevenness of the floor leads to a violation of the geometry of the finish coating, which is fraught with its deformation.

Benefits of adjustable floors

Compared to other floor leveling methods, lags that can be varied in height have a number of advantages, namely:

This technology eliminates the need for "wet" technical processes associated with pouring self-leveling and cement-sand screeds;
Wooden structures weigh less in comparison with concrete screeds, therefore they can be installed on bases with a low bearing capacity;
After preparing the floors using this technology, almost any type of finishing coating can be applied to the rough base;
The space under the joists, formed with the help of screw anchors, provides sufficient ventilation of the floor, which prevents the accumulation of condensate;
Do-it-yourself installation of adjustable supports takes only a few days. While any cement screed dries for at least 3 weeks;
The space under the floor can be used for laying the necessary communications;
In the process of leveling the floors, the level of the base can be raised by 15-20 cm if necessary;
Laying of finishing materials can be carried out without mounting any additional substrates;
The air layer under the lags provides additional heat and waterproofing of the base.

Types of adjustable structures

When arranging the floor with your own hands, you can use several various designs with adjustable lags. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Among the most popular "jacking" systems include:

Set of threaded plastic posts and fasteners for concrete. In this case, a thread is cut in the beams with their own hands, into which hollow racks are inserted. If necessary, they can be screwed to the desired depth;
Set of fasteners for concrete and plastic bushings. Unlike the previous design, finished bushings with internal rather than external threads are mounted in through holes in the beams, which are additionally fixed with self-tapping screws;
A set of logs, bushings and bolts-racks. In this floor leveling system, the bolts have tapered through holes into which self-tapping screws or other fasteners are inserted to securely connect to concrete.

To buy a quality kit, first of all, you need to check the quality of the supports themselves. The thread on them should be smooth without any damage. Otherwise, it will not be possible to set the desired lag height, which is fraught with distortions.

Plastic metal supports

The arrangement of the subfloor with the help of "jacking" systems involves the use of special threaded supports. They are conventionally divided into two broad categories:

Metal. They are made of galvanized steel, so they are practically not subject to corrosion. Such anchor devices are able to withstand very heavy loads and therefore are used in the arrangement of commercial premises. The only, but significant drawback of such supports is "assistance" in the destruction of the concrete base. Metal pins “dig into” the base over time, which leads to cracking;
Plastic. Unlike metal racks, they are less durable, but completely unaffected by moisture. In the case of installation of rack-bolts with a small pitch, they can withstand loads of more than 300 kg per m 2 of coating. Plastic supports practically do not create a load on concrete floors and therefore do not contribute to their destruction.

Types of supports by type of construction

What types of racks for leveling the floor with a log are best to use? When arranging "jacking" wooden crates can be used Various types anchor devices, namely:

Hairpins. In the process of finishing the subfloor, threaded studs are attached to the base. Two adjustable "plates" are fixed on them, between which there is a beam. By rotating the lower plate, you can adjust the beam in height, and the upper one is fixed to make the structure more rigid;
corners. Metal U-shaped profiles are initially fixed with the base down on the concrete floor. Each side of the corner contains two or three rows of through holes spaced from each other with a small step. After setting the desired level, the logs are fixed in the corners at the desired height;
Racks with automatic height adjustment. Plastic racks with automatic adjustment have a jacking mechanism. Thanks to them, it is possible to carry out automatic correction of the lag in height with a slope of 0 to 5 degrees.

Prices for professional supports

Manufacturers offer a lot of different types of adjustable racks. And it is not always clear why the price of one or another model of supports is formed, when visually some of them are very similar. To buy really high-quality anchor devices, consider the differences between budget and professional series products:

Budget supports. The price of screw anchors of this series varies from 1 to 3 dollars per piece. The low cost is not due to the most best quality the material from which the rack bolts are made, as well as their fragility;
Professional supports. Visually, professional screw racks are similar to budget ones, but they are made of special plastic. It has heat and frost resistance, as well as greater strength. Some of them are equipped with a self-regulation system, so that the procedure for leveling the floors takes a minimum of time. The price of professional supports ranges from 4 to 8 dollars apiece.

How to make screw supports?

To equip floors with adjustable beams, it is not necessary to buy expensive rack bolts. Knowing already some of the features of the system that were discussed above, it will not be difficult to make such devices on your own. To assemble adjustable anchors, you will need:

nuts;
metal plates;
hairpins;
driven anchors;
washers.

Assembling the screw support for leveling the floor:

First of all, it is necessary to fix the metal plate on the stud with a powerful bolt and a suitable nut;
With the help of a nut, the height of the beams will be adjusted in the future;
After adjustment, the logs are fixed with another nut;
So that the top nut does not interfere with the process of laying the finish coating, grooves are made on the wooden beams to completely mask it.

Currently, the main criteria that apply to sexual bases are strength and reliability, since the quality of laying the floor depends on them. finishing material. In order for the floor to be even, experts advise giving preference to adjustable structures that are built along the logs.

What you need to know about adjustable floors

hollow wear-resistant polymer bolts are used as adjusting elements;
the adjustable base is divided into two types: by plates and by logs;
if plywood is used as the base of the adjustable floor, then the bolts should be attached to the underside of the sheets;
when laying insulation between the concrete base and the adjustable floor, metal clamps should be fixed on the inner surface of the log;
logs should be located at a distance of 25-45 centimeters from each other, and the step under the tile should be small;
if there are no hollow polymer bolts, then the fastening mechanism can be made from a threaded anchor. In this case wooden logs or sheets of plywood are clamped on the anchor pin with washers and nuts;
adjustable floors correct installation can last up to 35 years.

Adjustable floor device

An adjustable floor on logs is a floor device located on special boards, under which there is an underground space. Due to this, the floor surface does not need additional leveling with a concrete screed.

A threaded anchor for an adjustable floor is attached to the base, which can be wood, concrete or earth. The height of the floor is adjustable due to the possibility of the latch to rotate around its axis.

Anchors are attached to the base, depending on the type of subfloor:

fastening to a concrete slab occurs with the help of polypropylene needle dowels;
mount to wooden base occurs with the help of self-tapping screws;
fastening to a concrete screed occurs with the help of dowel-nails.

The anchor structure performs the following functions:

adjusts the height of the floor;
provides load separation;
enhances the strength of the connection between the subfloor and the adjustable one.

Benefits of adjustable floors

Adjustable floors have a large number of advantages, among which are:

the ability to use as a basis for any finishing material;
possibility of installation on your own, since the work is quite simple and does not cause any particular difficulties;
ease of construction, due to which it can be used in the arrangement of loggias or balconies;
the possibility of laying communications or an insulating layer in the space between the flooring and the base;
installation of an adjustable floor on logs is a fairly dry and clean type of work, which allows you not to stain the walls during work;
wooden floors are able to cope well with differences exceeding 15 centimeters;
the cost of adjustable floors is more affordable compared to a concrete screed, which makes them more popular;
thanks to modern technologies it becomes possible to arrange a perfectly flat floor that does not create a creak.

DIY adjustable floors

Adjustable indoor floors

To begin with, you need to fix the logs on the base in increments of 30-50 centimeters, using screw-in rack bolts. Then the lags are leveled, for which the strut bolts are rotated along the axis using a special key. In conclusion, plywood is laid on the logs in a double layer, while the thickness of each sheet should be at least 12 millimeters. In the event that in the future it will be laid ceramic tile, for laying the top layer, you need to use moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of about 10-12 millimeters.

During the installation of the adjustable plywood, 16 through holes are made in the plywood using a spade drill. Then plastic bushings are inserted into them, into which bolt-racks are screwed. After that, you can begin to align the sheets by rotating the bolt-racks fixed to the base with dowels.

Attention ! To install the floor, it is necessary to use logs made of durable wood with a moisture content of 12 to 14%. They must be free from cracks or knots, mold or rodent infestation. The length of the lag is usually 2 meters, and the cross section is 4.5 by 4.5 centimeters. Before starting work, the material should be treated with special protective compounds. There must be enough air in the underground for ventilation.

The main advantage of such a floor is that it becomes possible to arrange a perfectly smooth and even subfloor on an unprepared base. Thanks to this, almost any floor covering can be used in the future.

Setting the horizon level with adjustable logs

By erecting a structure of this type, it is possible to mask any systems (ventilation, heating, electrical, etc.). If a “warm floor” system will be installed in the room, then its installation, made according to this design, will significantly reduce heat loss through the floor and, thereby, significantly save electricity.

Despite the fact that such an adjustable design is characterized by a fairly low weight, it is able to withstand heavy loads, which can reach up to 2500 kilograms per 1 square meter. Thanks to this, adjustable floors have found their application not only in the arrangement of living rooms, but also in warehouses, gyms and other premises.

Houses with such a floor construction can be erected even on soils in which heavy loads on the foundation are strictly prohibited. If the floor cannot be raised too high, then you can use a special design for adjustable plywood, in which the rise will reach only three centimeters.

The technology of its installation is almost no different from the installation of a log. The main difference is that instead of lags, naturally, plywood sheets are used.

Plywood is a material used not only in households, but also in aircraft construction, shipbuilding, furniture production and many other industries. With the help of plywood, you can easily replace a damaged area of the floor, because it goes well with floor coverings made of linoleum, laminate, carpet and parquet. But in order to avoid any misunderstandings, you need to know how to properly lay plywood.

Advantages of plywood over other materials:

the strength of the material is the same in all its directions;
sheets are large enough;
the formation of through cracks is completely excluded;
plywood bends easily;
transportation of material does not cause any difficulties;
has a low weight, but high strength;
plywood is characterized by high quality sanding and hard surface;
The material is waterproof and odorless.

Adjustable plywood is great in cases where the floor has distortions exceeding the mark of 15 centimeters, or communications pass through it.

Attention ! When adjusting the floor along the joists, the height of the room usually becomes lower by about 7-8 centimeters, so it is recommended to use it in rooms with high ceilings. In turn, when laying floors on adjustable plywood, the floor rises by no more than 3 centimeters, so the second method is considered more effective.

when choosing materials for leveling floors, you need to look for timber and plywood of the highest quality, since this show significantly affects the result of the whole work as a whole;
for ease of installation, it is recommended to purchase a laser level, which will allow you to achieve more accurate results;
floor slabs and the base must be as strong as possible, not crumble or crumble;
do not forget about the need for ventilation of coatings;
so that the floors do not creak, during the installation process, all surfaces should be cleaned of dust (as soon as the holes are drilled and the bolts are screwed, the surfaces are carefully vacuumed). In addition, the dowel-nails should be nailed as hard as possible so that the racks do not loosen;

When using this method, the logs are replaced with bushings, inside of which there is a thread (for this, special holes are drilled in the plywood). 6 plastic bolts are screwed into the bushings, which later need to be attached to the base with a dowel. A wrench should be used to level the adjustable plywood.

First you need to carefully level the first layer of plywood, then install the next layer and screw it with self-tapping screws. Before laying the second layer, it is necessary to carefully overlap the joints of the previous one, which will avoid the formation of seams. Thanks to the actions taken, the floor surface will become even and smooth.

Reading time ≈ 5 minutes

You can make adjustable floors instead of a concrete screed. The main thing is to know in advance all the features of such structures and their installation.

If you've ever done a major renovation, you know how difficult it can be to level the floor. The solution may be the installation of an adjustable floor. This is affordable alternative concrete screed, the creation of which does not require huge efforts and does not take much time.

What is an adjustable floor?

In the past, floor coverings were laid on logs and concrete screed. However, today more and more builders prefer adjustable floors. This is about draft field, made in the form of plywood flooring or log. The height of the surface can be controlled using special rack blocks.

The essence of the design is to use 18 mm plywood sheets or wood logs. One or the other are supported by bolts made of wear-resistant plastic. Turning around the axis, the bolts change the height of the plywood or log, making it possible to accurately level the subfloors. After the structure is leveled, the bolts are securely fixed to the base with dowel-nails.

The base can be: beam (wooden) or concrete (with screed, hollow, monolithic). On the logs, as a rule, have moisture-resistant plywood. Further - any floor covering (, parquet board, parquet, etc.). In order to better understand what plywood or joist adjustable floors are, you should look at the photos and videos on our website.

It is best to use the design in the following cases:

It is necessary to level the floor covering for fine finishing in the shortest possible time;
It is necessary to raise or level the floors to a significant height (a concrete screed will take a month to lay. An adjustable floor can be mounted in a couple of days);
Space must be left for communication systems;
It is planned to create a multi-level floor;
It is necessary to make a new floor in an old building during a major overhaul or create it in a new building.

Types and features

lags

If you use adjustable supports and logs to create a subfloor, then the structure can rise by at least 5 cm. This height will allow you to find a place for additional sound and heat insulation, as well as for any communication systems.

Assemble the floor adjustable log oh, with your own hands, you can easily. The lags have technological holes into which it will be necessary to screw the rack-bolts. The logs themselves are installed on the base and fixed on it with the help of long self-tapping screws with dowels pre-hammered into them. After that, it is necessary to align the logs in level by tightening the rack bolts. And then lay a fine floor covering.

Choose adjustable floor joists, and you can build a durable and strong structure, even if you work alone.

Plates

If for some reason adjustable joist floors don't suit you, you can create a slab structure. The surface will rise a minimum of 3 cm.

IMPORTANT! In the case of adjustable plywood, there will be enough voids for various wires, not enough for large communications.

Several plywood sheets act as plates. In the lower one, technical holes are made for the bushing with internal thread. On the one hand, the bolted legs are fixed to the floor base with self-tapping screws, on the other hand, they are screwed into the sleeve. Turn the bolts to level the surface.

Arguments against"

There are several drawbacks to adjustable floors that you should be aware of before deciding to install:

The floor will start to creak. Even if every anchor and every screw of the system is of high quality, this problem is not easy to avoid. Only a competent approach will help to cope with it: during installation, get rid of all the dust and dirt remaining after driving the dowels and drilling holes. Before laying the second layer, thoroughly clean the first one. Each nail must be hammered to the maximum. Unfortunately, wood in any case will be deformed from the severity or humidity in the premises. Such a floor will certainly begin to creak;
By raising the floor to a greater height, you will hear additional sounds in the future. For example, women's heels will be heard as drum beats. Additional soundproofing required.

Arguments for"

The list of benefits is longer:

Ease of installation. You can install the structure with your own hands during the day;
Adjustable floor has durability and reliability;
The design allows for additional soundproofing of the premises from the outside;
All communications can be safely and securely hidden from prying eyes in one place;
You can set the horizontal level of the floor surface most accurately;
The system is created from environmentally friendly materials;
Even if the floor does not match by 15 cm, the situation can be corrected in a short time.

Material selection

We have already said that the adjustable floor is created in two stages:

Installation of logs with movable supports;
Floor arrangement.

Which sheets to choose? It depends on what the face covering will be. If you want to lay parquet or lay laminated panels, use moisture resistant plywood. If tile or linoleum, choose moisture-resistant drywall sheets.

For a wooden floor, experts advise taking grooved and smooth boards. The supports may be different, but their difference from each other lies only in the way the height of the flooring is adjusted - floors on the corners or on studs.

We make an adjustable floor on logs instead of a concrete screed

A concrete screed in its structure does not allow the formation of a surface that would be sufficiently even, and now more and more often mixtures of the "Betonit" type or technology are used instead. A good alternative to all these “wet”, and therefore labor-intensive and dirty technologies, is the floor on adjustable joists.

In these designs there are special adjustable supports for the log in the form of plastic bolt-racks. Moreover, adjustable logs can be raised or lowered along the threads of these bolt-racks and thus easily leveled, which guarantees a perfectly even base for finishing, and hence the absence of floor creaking.

Advantages of an adjustable floor on logs

Compared to leveling with a concrete screed, adjustable joists offer the following advantages:

wet and dirty technical processes are excluded;
a wide range of floor elevation levels from 5 to 15 cm and more is provided without any additional material and labor costs;
obtaining cost savings when raising the floor over 7 cm;
speed of the installation process (100 m 2 in two days);
warranty high precision alignment;
increased heat and sound insulation;
placement of all types of communications in the underground space, which makes it easier to access them during repair or replacement;
lightness of the design, which makes it indispensable in houses where a large load on the floors is technologically unacceptable.

The following design options for adjustable logs are possible.

Installation of the floor on adjustable logs (video)

The main stages of installation of an adjustable floor on logs

Preparatory work

The room in which it is planned to carry out work on the installation of adjustable logs is measured. Based on the measurements, the number of beams for the log with a margin for cutting, bolt-racks for installation and dowel-nails for attaching them to concrete is calculated.
The level of the floor slab is checked and the final level of the floor is set, taking into account the height of the flooring (plywood, OSB) and the height of the finish coating.
In logs with the required pitch, through holes are drilled with a pen drill, then, if you do not have threaded bushings, threads are cut into the holes with a tap. If you purchased ready-made plastic bushings, then they are inserted into smooth holes and fastened with self-tapping screws to the logs.
The stand bolts are screwed into the lag holes with a hex key - the extreme screws in each lag are screwed in completely, and the middle ones - to a small depth.

Important! If the surface of the floor slab under the pillar bolt is very uneven, then it should be leveled with a chisel. Stand bolts must be securely fastened to concrete. The minimum distance between the floor slab and the joists must be 10 mm.

Installation lag

First, logs are installed along the perimeter of the room with an indent of 10-70 mm from the walls, the distance between the wall and the ends of the log is 10-30 mm. When choosing a step between lags, the dimensions of the sheets (plates) of the flooring should be taken into account. The edges of the floor slabs should rest on the joists and end near their central axes. The standard step between the lags is 400-600 mm, however, in order to strengthen the structure, this step can be reduced to 300 mm. It is allowed to install log trimmings supported by two stand-bolts.
The first in each lag are the extreme bolts-racks. They are screwed into the log to the required depth, controlling the preliminary position of the log in terms of level, after which all the other bolts-racks are lowered to the level of the plate.
After that, a thin drill is inserted into all the holes of the bolt-racks and holes for the dowel-nails are marked in the concrete.
The lag is removed and the planned holes in the concrete are drilled. The log is re-installed, a dowel-nail is inserted into each bolt-rack, which descends down the cone-shaped hole and falls exactly into the hole drilled in the concrete.
Next, the dowel-nails are slightly recessed in the 2 extreme bolt-racks with the help of a doboynik. The lag is set to the required height by rotating the two extreme bolt-racks with a hexagon, controlling the process by level.
Finally, the extreme dowel-nails are hammered into concrete. Then the remaining stud bolts are screwed into the logs until they rest on the plate, they are sunk and the dowel-nails are driven in each stud bolt.

With a chisel, using a hammer, the protruding ends of the bolts are cut off from the upper plane of the log. They check the rigidity of fastening the bolt-racks to the floor slab by pressing on each log and trying to tear it off (lateral loosening is prohibited).

If some kind of bolt-rack is not well fastened to the floor slab, it is unscrewed. Remove the dowel-nail and increase the depth of the hole in the concrete. The holes are dusted and the bolt-stand is fixed again.

If the required rigidity of fastening to the base is not achieved, then use other fasteners. For example, in the form of RDK - a nylon expansion dowel with a screw. The screws in the RDK dowels are twisted with a long bit with a screwdriver or drill. The screw must not be allowed to be underscrewed or turned in the dowel thread.

Installation of the floor on adjustable logs (video)

Adjustable joists on metal studs

Consider how you can arrange adjustable logs from materials that can be purchased at any building materials store.

Ordinary steel studs can be used as adjustable supports for lags. The design of such adjustable lag on studs is as follows.

A typical dry planed beam with a section of 50x50 mm is taken on the logs. His adjustable support contains an M 6 stud, two nuts, two washers and an anchor sleeve.
A hole is drilled in the concrete floor slab, an anchor sleeve is driven into it for expansion, into which a stud is screwed.
The lower (under the log) nut with a washer is screwed onto the stud. A hole is drilled in the log with a tsikkovka on top.
The lag is put on the stud, so that the nut and washer are on its lower side. By turning this nut, you can adjust the position of the lag. The second nut (upper) is necessary to fix the log at the set level.

As you can see, the modern construction industry offers new alternatives to traditional building technologies. Adjustable is a prime example of such an alternative, which makes it easier and cheaper to install and repair floors.

Floor plates with adjustable legs
Disadvantages of adjustable floors
Characteristics of regulated ground on logs
Choice of regulated soil
Floor types with adjustable brackets
Floor construction with adjustable flags
Floor coverings with adjustable feet
Installation Tips for Adjustable Leg Structures

Contemporary floor options include adjustable floors in the latest design.

The day system, mounted on mobile brackets, makes the floor surface perfectly level with minimal physical effort.

Manufacturers produce several versions of so-called "adjustable floors", depending on the purpose of the particular space, the calculated height of the flooring and the state of the substrate.

If it is necessary to raise the floor level to the desired height so that various utilities can be placed under its surface, a DNT structure with adjustable footrests can be installed. They ensure not only perfect homogeneity of floor coverings of all materials, but also allow the installation of the frame when the floors between the floor in the house are wooden elements.

The top mold is capable of lifting the floor to a height of 5 centimeters or more, depending on cross section logs and sizes having polymer screws. The system can be attached to a wooden or cement floor or to another type of foundation.

When it is necessary to solve the problem of leveling rough ground without losing the height of space, the adjustable bottom structure on the plates can be adjusted.

It is used to prepare the substrate for laying, such as laminate or parquet panels, provided that the difference in height does not exceed 2 mm with 2 linear meters. Max lift amount floor covering in this case does not exceed 5 centimeters, which corresponds to the thickness of a standard concrete screed.

The parameters of the adjustable DNT structures allow for a short time to create a strong and durable floor, characterized by excellent thermal and sound insulation of the room. In this case, there is no need to deal with dusty and wet processes, as in the case of cement sand installation. The costs of a DNT system do not exceed those of traditional leveling options such as semi-dry or concrete screeds and Knauff flooring.

If the soil rises 5 centimeters or more, you can save a large number of when preparing a rough base for finishing.

Disadvantages of adjustable floors

As for the shortcomings of this project, they may arise if the requirements for proper work were not met during installation.

With high-quality installation, DNT adjustable floors become a reliable and durable base for all prefabricated floor materials. It will be not only an opportunity to move on foot, but also to go by car.

If the assembly of the DNT system fails or the type of fasteners for the adjustable flag is incorrect, the soil will become unusable within a short period of time.

Characteristics of regulated ground on logs

The structural solution of such floors has the following characteristics:

It is possible to create adjustable floors on logs with your own hands without experienced craftsmen.
How to make adjustable floors

You just need to buy quality materials and supplies of some tools.
Floors will not exceed one or two days. In exchange for dry concrete, it will take about a month.
The adaptive design allows, if necessary, to install engineering communications in a technologically free space.
This allows you to save space and at the same time impermeable floor coverings.
With the help of an adjustable system, you can significantly increase the sound insulation in the room, so in last years such floors were installed not only in residential buildings, but also in recording studios and concert halls.
Just weigh similar structures to use them successfully in places where they are poorly covered, such as in private homes or on balconies.
In the process of adjusting adjustable floors, there is almost no work associated with dust and dirt.
That is why this option is the ideal solution for areas where cleanliness is required.
As shown in the picture, the adjustable floor system is capable of carrying a load of about 2.5 tons per square meter, which means that it can be installed in offices of various purposes - office, residential, warehouse, commercial.

Choice of regulated soil

While adjustable structures have many benefits, many property owners are hesitant to install them during renovations.

if the rough ground is difficult or impossible to settle, because it has great differences and shortcomings;
when leveling the substrate, for many technical reasons, you cannot use materials with a high weight;
If the flooring is to be created with different heights;
when engineering communications should be placed underground;
if there is a need for additional noise and thermal insulation.

Floor types with adjustable brackets

On the modern market, consumers are offered two types of flooring:

Structure containing adjustable floor coverings;
floor systems with adjustable brackets.

The main difference between these varieties is the difference in height.

When installing systems on logs, the amount of lift is 5 centimeters or more. As for the adjustable design on the plates, it can be raised by a maximum of 3 centimeters.

Installation work related to the installation of adjustable systems on logs and boards is carried out using a similar technology that allows you to do it yourself.

Floor construction with adjustable flags

The seals for them are made from planned beams.

The size of wooden elements usually does not exceed 50 × 50 centimeters. First you need to prepare tools and building materials.

To install the floor, you need:

lags behind the rods;
level;
polymer screws;
nails with dowels;
a hammer;
drilling.

At the first stage, preparatory work is carried out:

Clean the base.
If necessary, build engineering communications.
Tighten the wood screws. If there are threaded holes on the rods in them, the screw is screwed into the stand for adjustable logs.
Otherwise, they must run independently. At least 5 holes must be made at a distance of 2 meters. This simple operation is performed by drilling with an extended top. To make the installation rigid, it is necessary to drill a little less than the diameter of the bolt.
After hand tightening, tighten the screws with a drill and a special nozzle.

During the installation phase, the following steps are taken:

Wooden sticks are scattered on the ground.
In this case, the difference between them depends on the type of floor area. When the floor plan is covered with linoleum or slab, the distance between the beams should be up to 30 centimeters. Leave at least one centimeter between flags and walls to provide adequate ventilation.
When the adjustment of the adjustable logs is completed, proceed to firmly fasten the screws to the rough surface. Take a solid drill and make a hole about 4 centimeters long through the pin in the concrete.
Then the spindle was fixed in it and driven by a hammer, fixing the bolt on the bottom of the floor.
The hole must be securely fastened so that the structure is not mobile.

During surface smoothing:

When adjustable full clamps are installed around the perimeter of the space and securely fastened, they begin to repair them.
This applies the rule and the key to be adapted.
Let's break down to a height that should not exceed 1-2 millimeters. Using the wrench and focusing on the measurements, we start raising or lowering the screws as they strive for perfect alignment.

At the final stage, complete the following tasks:

When the adjustable flags are aligned with their hands, the nails are finally fixed with a hammer.
On racks that are cut with a knife or other tools to cut out unnecessary residue.
Where necessary, sound or thermal insulation materials placed between logs.
On logs, or better on top, fix the floor.
The choice of materials depends on the purchased flooring. Usually the floor is made of slabs made from plywood, rarely using DSP or GVL slabs, on top of which is linoleum or laminate.
Directly on the floor for adjustable installation of the final floor covering.

Floor coverings with adjustable feet

This option is used if the height of the floor surface does not exceed 3 centimeters.

In such a narrow space, it is hardly possible to hide the connection, but telephone cable and Internet wiring will be available. This type of installation technology is similar to the procedure for installing adjustable floors on logs.

It is necessary to prepare a set of adjustable presses on plates, consisting of sheets of plywood (other building material), poles, bushes, self-tapping screws.

You will also need: hammer, drill, level (water or laser).

Work begins with the preparatory stage:

Prepare the work surface, remove debris, dust, dirt. Then separate the posts to be removed underground, remembering that the height of the floor surface should not exceed 3 cm.
The leaves are located along the perimeter of the space at a distance of 2-3 centimeters on each side.
Mark points for drilling holes.
If it has a sheet of 1.5x1.5 meters, it should be approximately 9. One of the holes should be placed in the middle of the plywood or other material. Four holes rotate in each corner and 4 in the middle of the sheet. For this reason, a reliable connection of plywood can be ensured.

The panels must be installed in the following order:

After marking the holes on the plates, they start drilling.
Use a special drill with an extended tip.
There are screws with gaskets in the holes already prepared, and on the underside they attach bushings with self-tapping screws.
As screws are inserted into each of the holes and secured, the sheet is reversed and placed on the structure.
Using the screw holes in the hole, drill holes and insert dowels into them.
They lead them halfway.

During the adaptation phase, the following steps are taken:

When the adjustable support is installed, the sheets are aligned. This work is done using a level and a special key.
After finishing, carefully cut off additional centimeters.
Inch nails are fully driven into the base.

Go to the final stage:

If there is a need to improve the noise and thermal insulation of the soil, suitable materials placed at the top of the sheet.
After the sheets are assembled, the selected flooring is installed.

Installation Tips for Adjustable Leg Structures

To successfully install this type of floor system, you need to:

When the adjustment of the adjustable brackets is completed, the subfloor must be cleaned before laying the floor.
The fact that uncleaned debris, plastic cutouts, sawdust from the last floor covering can lead to pulleys and noise.
All fasteners for the floor structure should be carefully tapped and tightened, as this depends on the strength and reliability of the system.
Experts recommend mounting both the fixing element and the adjustable floor anchor.
This is the same dowel, but stronger. Anchors provide a secure and permanent anchor. They not only hold the stick in place, but at the same time pull it to the ground, which, in addition to stiffness, also transmits stiffness.
When the high floor is arranged, the best solution is to place the wrists in soundproof materials.
During the operation of the coating, there was no noise.
You don't have to keep the quality of the product if you want to create a regulated structure. From the financial point of view, it will be more profitable to immediately buy an expensive component than to process all the work again.

If you need to move the link after installation is complete, a few strips of coverage can be removed and then returned.

Adjustable floors

Often the floors on the logs cause people to associate with something old, creaky, rotting and obsolete.

Of course, at present there are many advanced technologies for floors that allow you to insulate, waterproof and raise the level of the floor to a greater height, if the idea requires it. However, one should not exclude the good old logs - the solution is simple and, with high-quality installation, will eliminate the disadvantages typical of such floors.

Advantages of adjustable logs

The most indisputable advantages of adjustable floors are the ability to raise the floor level to a greater height without weighing the total weight of the structure and the speed of installation, in comparison with various screeds and self-leveling floors.

The big advantage is the absence of wet processes and therefore no need for drying. The insulation of such floors also does not cause any problems - foam plastic, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool, all these materials are acceptable. In comparison with self-leveling, floating screeds, the insulation does not have high requirements for the density of the insulation and it is possible to choose a budget material.

When pouring a screed up to 5-10 centimeters thick, the advantages of the lag are not relevant, however, there are often situations when the floor level needs to be raised by 15 or more centimeters. Such heights may be required with a large difference in floor slabs, with a partial repair of an apartment, where you have to dock with the old floor on the logs.

Of course, there are screeds with the addition of expanded clay, various floating screeds that allow you to raise the level of the floor and at the same time insulate.

As a rule, the cost of materials and work increases, and if a screed of 5 centimeters is 1.5-2 times cheaper than an adjustable floor, then with layers of more than 10 centimeters, the cost of the lag remains the same, which cannot be said about wet screeds.

disadvantages

The disadvantages of joist floors include the risk that the floor will creak; in an aggressive, humid environment, the tree is not so durable. The issue with a creak is practically reduced to zero when choosing high-quality, dried logs and the right fasteners.

Many are confused by the possibility of laying tiles on such floors - this problem is solvable, the logs are set in sufficient quantities to eliminate significant deflections in the canvas, gypsum fiber is laid on top of the canvas.

Gypsum fiber serves as a damper, with a large fluctuation in the size of the canvas due to changes in humidity, GVL is quite stable and does not provoke the tile to snap off.

The material of the canvas laid on the logs is quite diverse: from the most budgetary chipboard and ending with plywood in two layers. Planed boards, lining and OSB - you must admit, a very wide choice for the floor along the logs.

How to make a flat floor on adjustable logs with your own hands

Results

Let's summarize: in repairs, where standard screeds and self-leveling floors do not cause high loads on the floor and the layers are thin enough, adjustable logs are not relevant.

Where you need to raise the floor level by 10+ centimeters, logs become a very practical solution. important quality installation, it will prevent creaking, subsidence and other inherent wooden floors Problems.

Self-assembly of adjustable logs

Adjustable floor companies exaggerate their professionalism and the uniqueness of their technology. I will try to dispel some myths, because I have been working in this area for several years.

Consider important points in installation.

Anchors, fasteners

Anchors are needed to attach the log to a concrete base; plastic dowels are not able to cope with the loads that the logs are subjected to.

The so-called plastic bushings that are screwed into the joist and attached to the concrete are very inconvenient to install, they can only be bought from those who are professionally engaged in the installation of floors. Naturally, very expensive. In addition, they have dubious reliability, the sleeve is attached to the concrete base on a dowel-nail.

The most reliable fasteners can be assembled independently, contrary to the cunning marketing of "sex companies". At the same time, components for the rack are usually available in most stores.

So, homemade fasteners for adjustable logs. The base is an expansion anchor (drive-in), it tightly holds in concrete and is easy to install, it can be steel or brass, the anchor expands due to a screwed bolt.

Brass is preferred. The product is suitable for M10 or M8 thread, in fact, other components are selected based on the selected diameter. The next element is a bolt with a diameter suitable for the anchor and the corresponding length, the higher you need to raise the logs, the longer. Instead of a bolt, you can take long studs and cut them to the desired length, however, you need a special tool to screw in the studs.

Two nuts with washers (preferably reinforced) are screwed onto the bolt, in fact, a lag is clamped between these nuts / washers.

The resulting fastener is very reliable and easy to use.

It does not pull out even if the logs were made of raw wood, the log leads when it dries, and the anchor holds.

lags

Usually a 50 by 40 mm bar is used, but if the height allows, you can take a thicker bar. In thicker bars, fasteners to the base can be used less frequently.

As a standard, a 3-meter lag is attached to 7 anchors. Logs are set in increments of 30-40 cm, depending on the material of the covering sheets.

Logs should be chosen drier and without too much kinks and screws. The worse the lag is dried, the more likely it is to creak in the future. Ideally, dry, planed bars, planed after drying, are suitable, but finding those is not always easy. Usually in stores they sell planed "raw" and then naturally dried bars, they have a bent shape. You can use them, but you should carefully choose those that are smoother.

I note that the logs do not have to be planed and smooth, the priority is straight and not “screw”. Knots should also be avoided, if the hole with the anchor gets on the knot - the lag will significantly lose strength.

Prepared logs can be treated with an antifungal compound, this will not interfere in potentially wet rooms.

How to cover the lags

Materials can be varied, from draft to finishing. Under the subsequent fine finish, you can lay the usual edged board- This option is more suitable for a private house.

Sheet materials are suitable for both private and apartment building. It can be plywood, chipboard, OSB. All these materials are considered draft, followed by the laying of linoleum, laminate and parquet board. With additional flooring of gypsum fiber, tiles are laid.

The finishing coating includes a floorboard, lining.

Their further finishing consists in grinding and painting (although it is often useful to do this before installation).

Of the sheet material, I would like to note plywood - it is strong, durable and tolerates moisture well. Due to the different orientation of the veneer layers, plywood is less prone to “walking” in size.

There is really one unpleasant drawback: in most cases, the thickness of the sheets may differ slightly by 1-2 mm, and the difference may be present at different ends of the same sheet. Because of this difference, for linoleum flooring, for example, you will have to putty the seams. However, despite this, plywood is considered the most best material for adjustable floors - 10 mm plywood in two layers is the most durable solution.

Plywood not thinner than 18 mm is placed in one layer.

Foundation preparation

A concrete base is required to securely fasten the anchors. Usually, in commercials, lag fasteners are installed in a perfectly aligned cement-sand screed (DSP). But the reality is that for real work, leveling the base is not required this time, moreover, usually the screed does not have sufficient strength to securely hold the anchor.

If in your case the installation will be carried out for some reason on the central heating system, then it should be drilled to concrete. Or check the strength of your screed by twisting a test anchor.

Preparation consists in cleaning, foaming and covering various cracks, in order to avoid drafts. You should also mark the location of future logs, this is done on the walls, where the middle of the log will be. When marking, one should take into account the centimeter gaps of the sheets from the walls, so that the seams clearly fall in the middle of the log.

The easiest way to do the markup is this: from the beginning, the logs are marked on which there will be joints of the sheets, and only then the remaining logs are distributed between the seams so that the distance between them does not exceed 30-40 cm.

I want to note: usually all the lags are made parallel, on the seams perpendicular to the lags, additional lags are not required for joining sheets, more on that later. Of course, the logs can be set as you like, there can be both longitudinal and transverse ones, the point is that you don’t need to make extra crosshairs.

Lag installation

From my own experience, I was convinced that it is more convenient to drill holes for bolts and nuts for nuts in place. If you make holes with melts in advance, it is impossible to move the fasteners, this may be necessary when the fastener hits a weak spot in concrete, a smeared void, etc.

This is my personal opinion, you can certainly drill holes in the lags in advance. I will describe my method, and you decide how convenient and practical. This method is not relevant with ready-made fasteners purchased in online stores - there, to fix the anchor, you need to tighten the lowest nut.

The lag is laid on the marked place, with a perforator, a hole is drilled directly through the lag in the concrete base. Having drilled, the anchor is immediately inserted without washers and nuts. This will prevent the lug from moving during further drilling. I want to note that in panel and monolithic houses, in most cases, the thickness of the ceiling is not more than 10 centimeters, so drilling more than 5 cm is highly undesirable, be careful! Having drilled, you need to clean the hole with the same puncher in the drilling mode so that all the crumbs come out.

Thus, all the logs are drilled, the bolts are tightened in the anchors. Fasteners are securely fixed in concrete, however, the logs have free movement up and down.

After tightening the anchors, the bolt heads are sawn off, the logs are pulled off.

One nut is screwed onto each protruding stud and one washer is put on. It is not easy to screw a nut onto a sawn bolt, so it is useful to have a small file on hand, trimming the sawn edges makes it easier to screw the nut. Further, in the lags, holes for the upper nuts are drilled, put back into place, the position of the lag is adjusted with the lower nuts and pulled from above with the second nut with a washer.

It is most convenient to adjust the lag using a laser level. A tubular wrench is convenient for tightening the upper nuts, and an open-end wrench for adjusting the lower ones.

After all the adjustments, the studs sticking out above the lag are cut off. Lag installation completed. If insulation was conceived, the insulation is laid and foamed. Excess foam is cut off and the floor is ready for flooring.

flooring

The most important thing in flooring is to align the sheets so that the seams fall in the middle of the lag. It may happen that the seams will be significantly displaced, if the sheet does not go on the log at least a centimeter, you will have to change the layout of the sheets or do additional seams, twisting the log is much more problematic. The seams running across the lag are pulled together from below with a bar or the same sheet material.

It is important to leave a gap of 5-15 mm from the walls, the canvas will expand in which case, this will in some cases avoid floor creaking.

When laying plywood, an unpleasant phenomenon may occur: self-tapping screws may not sink into the canvas and burst, the result is not a tight attraction, and a creak may appear in this place.

In the place of the burst self-tapping screw, you need to tighten a new one, stepping back a few centimeters. If the self-tapping screws burst too often, there are two ways out: instead of 3mm, take thicker screws, for example 6mm, or, before tightening, make a drill with a drill slightly larger than the diameter of the cap.

That's all, I hope I've given you all the information.

Return to the section "Apartment repair"

Wooden floors are the warmest, most environmentally friendly and beautiful of all types of flooring because:

the tree has a fibrous structure, it has, at the same time, strength and flexibility, as well as relatively low thermal conductivity;
wood is a material that “breathes”, that is, it absorbs moisture from environment and gives it back, optimizing the humidity in the room;
has a unique texture, which "plays" with skillful processing: due to the difference in density, color and pattern.

There are certain design features plank flooring.

This is laying lag - wooden beams- on the supporting structure with a certain step. To understand how to make a floor on logs and choose the most suitable option for specific conditions, you need to find out what types of wooden floor structures are.

In private housing construction are used various materials load-bearing and enclosing structures, they are built on different types soils, which determines the choice of foundation.

Once the house is erected, the question is how to install the logs so that the floor is strong and stable. This will depend on the size of the room, because even for a room with an area of 1x1 m, you need support for the logs in the middle. Therefore, you need to decide whether to choose supporting pillars or the foundation of intermediate walls as the base for the logs.

Installation of the floor on the logs along the beams and supporting pillars

As a support for the log, a strapping of beams is arranged along the inner perimeter of the foundation.

For support between the beams, intermediate posts are arranged every 500-600 mm. Technically it looks like this:

A pit is being dug, it will also serve as a formwork: 400x400 mm and 400 mm deep.
First, sand is rammed in it - a layer of 10 cm, then crushed stone - 10 cm.
Then a solution is poured in a layer of 20 cm.
When the foundation is ready, a column of ceramic bricks is laid out on it to the level of the lag.
From above, under the logs, waterproofing is laid on the pole.

The logs are laid, relying on the bars along the perimeter and the pillars between them, so that their ends do not reach the basement wall or grillage by 2-3 cm (this is necessary to expand the tree).

The joists must overlap the support by at least 10 cm.

Rostverk is top part foundation of the house. It can be "low" - somewhat recessed relative to the "zero mark" - ground level. Or "high" - raised above the ground. If the foundation is piled, the grillage is made to link individual columns - piles into a single structure and in order to serve as a foundation for the intermediate walls of the house.

The cross section of the log, depending on the load exerted on the floor, will be 10x20 or 15x20 cm.

Their length, preferably, should be enough from one to the other wall of the room.

The step between the lags will depend on the width of the insulation used - this will make the installation process more convenient ( optimal size 1m).

There is an opinion that the logs before fastening should lie in the room for several days and only then they can be fixed.

Before you make the floor on the logs, communications can be laid between them.

It is necessary that the insulation be 5-7 cm below the lag level.

This is necessary so that there is a gap between the insulation and the finishing floor layer for ventilation. It is better to calculate the dimensions of the insulation and the log immediately in order to follow the technology when laying (the insulation layer can be 10-15 cm).

If, nevertheless, the height of the lag is not enough for the ventilation device, counter-rails can be stuffed on them, which should have the same width as the lags.

Floor device algorithm

First, the beams, then the logs are attached to the base with perforated (anchor) corners, and are laid on them.
For fastening, self-tapping screws 3-4 cm long are used.
Along the log, attached to their lower edge cranial bars with a section of 4x4 cm. They serve as a support for boards or plywood (subfloor) on which insulation will be laid.
Before laying the insulation, boards and logs must be covered with a layer of high-quality waterproofing, with access to the walls, to a level above the finished floor, so that moisture from the underground space does not get into the insulation. The waterproofing is fastened with a stapler to the tree.
A layer of vapor barrier is laid over the laid insulation and the log, which must also be removed to the level of the baseboards.
It is tightly pressed against the insulation and fixed with a stapler to the sidewalls of the log.
A finishing floor is laid on the logs. It can be plank and will be laid across the log. If you plan to lay parquet, laminate or other sectional flooring, you should lay a substrate under it: particle boards, OSB or cement chipboard (DSP), having sound and heat insulating properties.

Between the ends of the finished floor and the wall, you need to leave a gap of 1-2 cm, left for the thermal expansion of the wood, which will then be closed with a plinth.

To ventilate the underground space with an uninsulated basement, holes are left in it for ventilation, which

b. covered with protective nets, from rodents. In summer, the goal of airing and drying is achieved, but in cold weather, the underground cools down a lot, cooling the floor too. Therefore, it is recommended to close the vents for the winter.

A more suitable option is when the basement is insulated from the inside or outside, and the ventilation is arranged internally - the channels are brought out into the room and hidden behind the baseboards.

Installation of the floor on the logs along the intermediate walls

It differs from mounting on pillars by the design of the foundation.

The strip foundation is arranged under each wall and, thus, divides the entire basement space into separate rooms.

All installation steps are repeated, only the logs will rest on the foundations of the intermediate walls or beams attached to them.

Since air is needed to ventilate the underground, it is difficult to organize it in intermediate rooms.

Through holes are made in the walls for free passage of air, and ventilation ducts are laid in the design of the enclosing walls, which take air from the room.

Installation of the floor on the logs on the floor slab

It is clear that in this case it is not necessary to ventilate the floor from below, as well as laying a subfloor as a substrate for insulation.

DIY adjustable floors

But it is still necessary to arrange sound insulation and, at the same time, insulate. The better this is done, the warmer the floor will be and the less voices and the sound of the perforator coming from the lower floor will be heard.

Logs are laid parallel to the short side of the room. Their size depends on the layer of insulation that is supposed to be laid under the floor.

If the floor slabs are not completely even, the horizontal lag can be achieved using a level and placing pieces of plywood under the joists.

The cavities between the lags are laid with insulation or covered, for example, with expanded clay.

A sheet of polyethylene or penofol type insulation is laid on top of the insulation, which will reflect heat inwards and is fastened with a stapler to the sidewalls of the log. The remaining space of 1.5-2 cm will serve to ventilate the space below them.

Then, a finishing floor is arranged along the logs, with the obligatory arrangement of gaps between the coating and the wall.

01/18/2014 at 20:01

Fastening the lag to the floor: pros and cons
Log laying technology
Fastening the lag with self-tapping screws
Use of anchors
Fastening lag corners
Mounting adjustable logs

Quite often, a floor on logs is organized in residential premises, which allows the use of any type of insulation and sound insulation, various materials for the subfloor.

Thus, it is possible to make any surface even and lay the necessary communications under the floor. Installation of this floor is quite simple, and from an economic point of view, it is not very expensive.

The result is a structure with a small load on the base. And of course, when installing such a floor, the question arises whether it is necessary to attach the logs to the floor and, if necessary, how to attach the logs to concrete floor.

In this article, we will provide answers to these questions.

Fastening the lag to the floor: pros and cons

According to the assurances of the opponents of fastening, these actions can destroy the screed, and where the bars and the base are connected, the sound insulation is broken, and sound bridges are formed, which the neighbors from below will not be happy about.

And those who believe that fixing is necessary share their experience: all the work done to repair the floor was in vain due to the deformation of the lag.

Is everything really as they say? Regarding the destruction of the screed, if the screed is quite strong, then it will not be possible to break it with a drill when drilling a hole.

And to make repairs to the floor is possible only if there is a solid foundation. If the old screed began to collapse, then it must be removed.

The problem of sound insulation violations remains controversial.

Rigid structures can actually transmit sound. However, insulating material is placed in the space between the lags, which has soundproofing characteristics. Under the logs, a gasket is placed that has shock-absorbing properties, which also prevents the spread of sound.

The sound bridge, which is formed at the attachment point, transmits vibrations to concrete, and it is a fairly dense material and, unlike wood, does not conduct sound well.

Therefore, for the neighbors below, there will be no noticeable changes in the noise level before and after the repair.

The floor on the logs is constructed from beams, fasteners, rough flooring. When all the components are displaced relative to each other, a creak occurs, which is unlikely to please the neighbors. You can prevent the appearance of an unpleasant sound if you firmly fix the logs to the floor.

Another argument speaks in favor of fastening - fixing the lag. When it comes to the degree of wood drying, buyers are forced to believe the words of the seller, since it is impossible to find out by simple inspection.

Over time, poorly dried bars can warp, as a result, the coating will move, and the entire complex floor structure will be skewed.

For those who are wary of attaching the log to a concrete base, you can organize a floating floor. In this case, the flooring is not attached to the supporting structures. This will provide excellent sound insulation, but well-dried logs must be used.

They won't warp over time.

The bars are fastened to each other in such a way that a lattice is obtained. This design will make the floating floor more stable. Insulation is laid between the bars, a subfloor is built on top.

As a result, the entire structure under its own weight is pressed to the floor. Over time, such a floor will not change its shape and will serve for a long time.

In most cases, the installation of a log on a concrete base is carried out with their fastening to the floor, since there are much more arguments in favor of this than the probable disadvantages.

Log laying technology

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to install logs on a concrete floor:

Quality materials are the key to a successful renovation.
You can use a timber beam conifers. Its humidity should not exceed 18%. Acquired bars must be allowed to acclimatize for several days in the room where it is planned to make the floor. Logs that begin to buckle should be set aside and not used in the floor.

The wooden components of the future structure should be treated with a flame retardant and an antiseptic that will prevent the appearance of mold and insects.
Foundation is being prepared, that is, the surface is cleared of debris, all cracks are rubbed, the protrusions are knocked down.
The tree must be protected from moisture., that is, it is necessary to perform waterproofing.
For this, materials in the form of rolls, hydrophobic mastics, impregnating compounds, and a dense film are used.
Prepare the necessary tools for the job, fasteners and substrates for lifting the log. The substrates must be rigid, which will not sag over time, so that voids do not form at the support points. You can take thin boards, pieces of plywood, or purchase special plastic substrates.
Logs should be laid across the sunlight falling from the window.
Wood can be deformed during temperature changes, and when laid in this way, all logs will warm up evenly. In rooms like a hallway, logs must be laid across the movement. This will give the floor more strength.
Depending on the thickness of the rough flooring, the distance between the bars is selected.
The greater the thickness and the higher the strength, the farther apart the logs are laid. As a rule, the distance is about 40-50 cm.

The logs closest to the wall should be located 2-3 cm from it, and others - depending on the size of the room.
After the complete assembly of the crate, it should be brought to a horizontal plane. It is best to have an even base. There are craftsmen who even make a thin cement screed for this, provided that the floor level difference allows this.
You can not perform a screed, since the use of a log allows you to level even a very uneven floor. If the beam is below the required level, then substrates are placed under it.
To provide cushioning and additional waterproofing to wood it is necessary to lay logs on linoleum, roofing material, polyethylene foam or something else.
It is important that the material used is not soft. Otherwise, after some time, it will sag from the pressure acting on it, as a result, a gap will form, which will eventually lead to the appearance of unpleasant sounds, such as a creak.

After completing the construction of the structure from the log, it remains only to fix them to the floor.

There are the following ways to attach logs to a concrete floor:

using dowels and screws;
anchoring;
use of galvanized corners and self-tapping screws.

The choice of mounting method depends on financial capabilities and personal preferences.

Fastening the lag with self-tapping screws

Such lag fasteners as self-tapping screws are the simplest and most inexpensive option, but at the same time guaranteeing excellent results.

Symmetrical holes must be drilled in the lags and the base. Then dowels are inserted into them and screws are screwed in.

The distance between the holes can vary between 40-80 cm depending on the case.

The length of the self-tapping screw should be equal to the thickness of the beam plus 5-6 cm.

You can use self-tapping screws with a thread that does not reach the cap. They allow you to better press the logs to the floor.

Use of anchors

To obtain a reliable and long-term fastening, you can take an anchor for a log floor. In addition to holding the timber in one place, they also attract it to the surface, giving the entire system additional rigidity.

In essence, the anchor is a dowel, but much more powerful.

Its advantage is a high pull-out resistance, so it is used in the installation of very heavy structures that create a large load on the fasteners. The probability of completely tearing off the floor on the logs from concrete base, approaches zero, therefore, fastening can also be done with self-tapping screws. However, anchors are quite often used for these purposes.

So, how to fix the logs to the concrete floor with anchors? This method is performed similarly to fastening with self-tapping screws.

The same holes are made in the beams and the concrete floor. To prevent the bolt head from sticking out, it must be hidden without damaging the wood; for this, the logs must first be countersunk.

Usually, 3-4 anchors are required to secure one lag within a room.

The locking element of the anchor should be inserted into the hole in the floor, then a bolt should be screwed into it through the beam.

Anchor bolts are produced in various lengths: 45-200 mm. When choosing a length, the thickness of the log plus 6 cm for penetration into the base should be taken into account. It is recommended to purchase anchors with a diameter of 10 mm.

Fastening lag corners

Another fastener for the floor log is used - a galvanized metal corner.

One side of the corner is attached with self-tapping screws to the beam. The self-tapping screw should enter the tree by 3-4 cm and best of all at an angle, this will increase the strength of the connection.

The other side of the corner should rest against the floor.

It should be fixed by the methods described above, that is, using dowels with self-tapping screws or anchors. Instead of corners, you can take a U-shaped profile.

Adjustable floors: do-it-yourself log device technology analysis on supports

Mounting adjustable logs

Installation of an adjustable system is easier and it will be easier to get a perfectly flat surface with it. In this design, instead of anchors, plastic racks are used, which are screwed into wood and fixed to the base with dowels (for more details: “How to make adjustable floors on logs with your own hands”). By rotating the special bolts, you can set the required height. After the lags are adjusted, the protruding part of the bolts must be cut off.

Conclusion

AT wooden house it is not recommended to fix the logs to the floor. And if a concrete screed is used as a base in the room, then in this case it is necessary to fix the logs to the concrete floor or not. In such a situation, fastening will not be superfluous. Everything is done quite simply, the main thing is to use high-quality materials and strictly follow all the rules.

Then the design will turn out to be reliable and will serve for a long time.