Repair 

How to make a cement floor with your own hands. Self-leveling floor on a cement basis: tips for choosing. Step-by-step technology for pouring a self-leveling floor

With a slight difference in the floor, from about 2 mm to 2 cm, it is more expedient to use a self-leveling floor to level the base. The polymer mixture dries faster than a conventional screed, and it is much easier to work with it. You can verify this for yourself by carefully reading the step by step instructions work with a self-leveling floor, save time and effort to work with long-drying cement-sand and concrete screeds.

The bulk floor is a self-leveling polymer mixture based on cement or gypsum, which allows you to fully prepare the floor for the next stage of work. Depending on the ultimate goal, the self-leveling floor can act as level ground for further finishing (tiles, parquet, laminate, etc.) and finishing. In an apartment, it is quite rare to find a self-leveling floor in its pure form, since the thermal insulation and aesthetic qualities of such a floor are not too high. Although the variety of colorful colors of modern mixtures helps to solve an aesthetic problem, however, more often a self-leveling floor in its pure form is found in production workshops and large trading floors. But the home filling of the self-leveling floor with a 3D effect will look very impressive.

Self-levelling compound for high quality results with minimal effort

Compared to screeds, the self-leveling floor has greater wear resistance. Lay flooring on the frozen floor is possible only after 7-10 days. This time is specially allotted so that all the particles of the binder materials are connected to each other, the coating is completely hardened, and it is possible to work calmly with the finish. As for the hardening of the self-leveling mixture, it occurs 4–6 hours after pouring. At the end of this time, you can safely walk on the floor in soft shoes. That is why it is important to work quickly with the mixture, so that each subsequent portion of the fill has time to grab from the previous one, to form a monolithic and uniform coating.

Gypsum self-leveling compounds are warmer than concrete, ideal for laying under parquet. Such a finish and a self-leveling floor equally absorb excess moist air and give it back. The self-leveling floor can withstand high loads - about 800 kg per 1 cm 2. Among other advantages of using this leveling technology, one can note the convenience of working with the mixture, the formation of a durable monolithic and seamless coating, and the waterproofing properties of the material. After hardening, the self-leveling floor can withstand a wide range of temperatures equally well. Therefore, it can be poured both in wet warehouses, and in saunas with dry and hot air. The only drawback of this floor leveling method is the high price, but it pays for itself if you look closely at all the advantages.

The screed and self-leveling floor have one similar feature - both mixtures are designed to level the floor for further finishing. However, this is where their similarities end. Different degrees of graininess of materials affect the technology of pouring mixtures, preparatory work and the characteristics of the finished coating. So, if the cement screed needs to be leveled manually, then with a self-leveling floor everything is different. No wonder it is also called a self-leveling mixture. Polymer binders and a less viscous consistency allow the material to spread over the surface and fill all the cavities on its own. The composition also affects the hardening time and the quality characteristics of the coating. It will take at least a day to polymerize the screed before it can be walked on, while the self-leveling floor will take only 4 hours. Complete drying of the screed can take a month or more. Prolonged drying and slow evaporation of moisture leads to a height difference in different parts of the floor.

The small granularity of the bulk mixture indicates its use at the final stage of flooring

Filling the self-leveling floor avoids all these problems. However, for good adhesion of the material to the base, it must be carefully prepared (sanded, removed oil traces, coated with a primer), which is absolutely not required for a screed. It will also require constant maintenance of room temperature in the room, and quick work with the prepared working mixture. Self-leveling floor consumption square meter less concrete and cement screed.

Before pouring the self-leveling floor with your own hands, you need to carefully prepare the surface, get rid of all irregularities and traces of paint, solutions. For this you can use manual method- hammer and spatula. However, for more effective work We recommend using a vibro-sanding or conventional sanding machine. When working on large areas for grinding the surface, we use more overall equipment - a mosaic grinder. Bumps and bumps will create unnecessary problems and differences in the base, so you need to get rid of them. Just like from chips, cracks on the surface. If there are any, seal them with putty. In order to less have to bother with the removal of oil stains, paint and all kinds of solutions, we recommend that you fill the floor even before the start of the painting work. In addition to cracks on the base of the floor, do not forget about the seams near the wall. They also need to be cleaned and sealed with putty or foamed so that the mixture does not leak through the cracks.

The mixture is perfectly absorbed into the primed surface and the risk of delamination is minimized.

When the initial preparation of the base is completed, let the putty dry, and proceed to the next step - priming the floor. This moment is mandatory. It allows not only to improve the adhesion of the material to the floor, but also prevents excessive absorption of moisture from the self-leveling floor into the base. The mixture spreads better on a primed surface. For priming the floor, it is preferable to use a primer deep penetration than concrete contact. The presence of quartz sand in it gives the surface a roughness, due to which the self-leveling floor can spread unevenly. We need to achieve a smooth surface. We do not regret the primer. The more evenly and thicker it is applied, the better the final result will be. Ideally, we recommend going through the primer 2 times. Now we are waiting for the primer to dry.

Another point to be taken into account preparatory stage works, installation of a damper or edge tape. It is mounted at the bottom along the entire perimeter of the junction of the floor to the wall and does not allow the flooded floor to expand during curing. However, if the thickness of the tape alignment layer is a couple of millimeters, the installation of the damper tape can be neglected. In all other cases, when the alignment thickness is 1 cm or more, the installation of a damper tape is mandatory.

To determine the thickness of the pouring layer of the self-leveling floor, you need to find the zero level. It is more convenient and faster to carry out this procedure using a laser level. It is installed in the middle of the room and beats off a straight line around the entire perimeter of the room for further measurements. Unfortunately, not everyone has a laser level, so we use a regular level and a pencil as an alternative. At any height from the floor, for example 1 m, with a pencil and a level, we draw a line around the entire perimeter of the room. For convenience, you can use a chopping thread. With a tape measure we find the zero mark, the highest point of the subfloor. This will be our difference, by which we need to raise the entire floor in order to level it.

We achieve maximum measurement accuracy with the help of laser technology

If there are more significant differences in the middle of the base, we increase the thickness of the layer in order to surely equalize all the unevenness of the floor into one plane. We mark the thickness of the zero floor at the bottom of the wall on the damper tape. The resulting size is transferred to various points on the walls. We connect the marks in a single line. Depending on the thickness of the layer, we select the appropriate quick-hardening mixture for tiles or other floor coverings. The minimum and maximum thickness of the floor leveling is indicated on the packaging. We purchase the required number of packages, focusing on the layer thickness and material consumption indicated by the manufacturer of the self-leveling floor.

Knead the mixture strictly according to the instructions. Otherwise, it will lead to loss of strength. It is especially important to add as much water as indicated on the package. Some beginners and even experienced craftsmen neglect this rule and add more liquid than expected. What does this lead to? Excess water does not allow to achieve a uniform structure. When pouring the floor, nothing is noticeable, but after hardening, the first flaws are visible. This is due to the fact that excess water remains on the surface, and the dispersion sags.

The texture of the mixture for pouring the floor should be smooth and uniform.

The temperature of the preparation and pouring of the mixture is one more important point, which affects the set of strength and quality of work. The manufacturer also indicates these temperature limits on the packaging. The optimal indicators are room temperature in the range of 18–25°С. Low temperatures, below 5 ° C, will lead to the destruction of polymers and loss of strength, the water will begin to solidify, the mixture will not harden. High temperature, above 30°C, contributes to the rapid evaporation of water, which prevents the mixture from spreading

Before pouring, the mixture must be pre-infused for 3-5 minutes. This is important, otherwise bumps may form on the surface. The recommended period for using the working mixture after preparation is also indicated by the manufacturer. As a rule, it is from 40 minutes to 1 hour. We recommend that you pre-prepare several containers with the working mixture. While we are filling the first portion, the rest will already ripen. After settling, mix the mixture again with a construction mixer.

In order not to be afraid to step on and leave marks on a fresh bulk field, we put paint shoes on our feet (shoes with spikes). Such shoes will allow you to safely move around the fresh floor and trim undisclosed areas if necessary.

Now we recommend dividing the room into several zones. So that the self-leveling floor does not go beyond the boundaries of the room, we block the threshold with a metal profile, fixing it to the floor. We take the first container and evenly distribute the mixture. Although the self-leveling floor is considered to be self-leveling, it is not worth pouring it at one point and waiting for it to spread over the surface. Poured and distributed the mixture, connect the needle roller. It helps spread the mixture and expel air bubbles. During leveling, we adhere to the level height drawn on the damper tape. After pouring, it should completely overlap the line around the perimeter. If the difference is only a few millimeters and you did not mount the damper tape, level the self-leveling floor evenly with a spiked roller towards you. We do this to the end of the room. Pour the mixture from the window and gradually move to the door.

Let the floor dry and harden. The next day, we check the quality of work using the level and the rule. If everything is smooth, there are no gaps, you can be congratulated on successful work. Now we wait 7-10 days for the floor to finally set and shrink, and then we start laying tiles, parquet or other flooring.

Installing a self-leveling floor only at first glance seems not to be a very complicated procedure. However, a frivolous attitude to the pouring process threatens with the appearance of significant defects - cracks, delaminations and extra air bubbles in the new coating. These problems can be avoided by observing certain installation rules and then the finished floor will delight you for more than one year.

What mixes are best to use

Hardware stores offer just huge selection self-leveling floors, so you need to immediately decide which floors you want. Budget options are usually used as a base for other flooring. Decorative self-leveling floors will cost significantly more.

The offered types of ready-made mixtures have their own characteristics and differ significantly in price. It takes some effort to choose the best option among such a variety.

To calculate the required amount of dry mix, you need to multiply the height of the future floor by its area. It is also necessary to carefully read the instructions for the selected mixture - it may contain information about the need for special tools or additional processing of the base.

Preliminary work

  • construction mixer;
  • electric drill;
  • rollers and spatulas;
  • special shoes that allow you to move on the floor without damaging the surface.

From building materials, prepare the mixture itself for the self-leveling floor, a primer and a suitable container for diluting the mixture.

The need for additional operations before installing a self-leveling floor is determined by the distance between the concrete base and the intended level of coverage. Usually the height of the floor is made the same as in the neighboring rooms.

At the same time, the coating should not interfere with opening and closing doors. If the distance from the base to the future floor is more than 4 cm, then it is better to first pour the screed, and then mount it bulk coating up to 1.5 cm high. Otherwise, the repair will cost a pretty penny.

Foundation preparation

Before priming the base, it is necessary to carefully putty all the bumps, cracks and chips. After the putty has dried, a primer can be applied. The number of layers will depend on how quickly the base absorbs the composition. If the primer is completely absorbed, then you need to apply more, not forgetting to dry each layer. The result should be an even base that does not allow moisture, vapors and gases to pass through.

The level of future flooring is marked on the walls, taking into account the height of the floors in neighboring rooms. Do not forget about the door - it should open and close freely. For special strength of the screed, a reinforcing mesh is laid on the base of the floor.

Solution preparation

According to the instructions, the dry mixture is diluted with water and mixed with a construction mixer. Some mixtures are stirred at certain time intervals, others are diluted in the usual way.

Only strict adherence to the instructions guarantees the quality of the self-leveling floor, and vice versa, deviation from the manufacturer's instructions often leads to undesirable consequences. For example, an excess of liquid reduces the strength of the coating, and its lack leads to a loss of plasticity of the mixture.

To make the solution homogeneous, first pour water, and then pour the mixture into it. Not the last role is played by the cleanliness of the container. In the absence of a construction mixer, you can mix the composition using an electric drill with a special nozzle.

The resulting mixture is used immediately after preparation, following the instructions on the package. It is important to meet the time specified by the manufacturer, since the thickened solution can no longer be diluted with water without loss of coating strength.

Self-levelling floor technology

The prepared mixture is gradually poured onto a concrete base, starting from the recesses (if any). The mixture is then spread with a notched trowel and leveled with a notched roller.

After pouring, the coating must be compacted, removing air from it. For this procedure, special shoes are used - “cats”. You can use the new floor only after it has completely dried (the time is determined according to the instructions).

Common Mistakes

  • The bulk floor is called self-leveling because the plastic mixture spreads, forming a perfectly flat surface. But sometimes mixtures need help. When the spilled solution does not reach the corner, it is stretched there with a notched trowel.
  • An incorrectly selected roller can move the mixture too much, or not move it at all. The needles of the "correct" roller should be 1-2 mm higher than the fill level.
  • It's best to have dampers in advance and take into account the height of the threshold, even if it seems that the threshold is high enough to keep the spilled mixture in the room. However, the slope of the room can be deceiving. In any case, the installed dampers will not interfere, but they will eliminate the need to urgently look for suitable materials to create a barrier to the flowing mixture.
  • Do not save time and make a preliminary measurement of the heights of the room. There are cases when, before pouring the mixture, some irregularities are not visible to the eye. And after the completion of the work, the protruding hillock will ruin the entire repair and require additional costs.

Despite some features and nuances, floor screed with a self-leveling ready-made mixture is a fairly simple and very interesting process that does not require professional skills and provides an excellent result.

How to pour self-leveling floor

Many of us are a bit of a perfectionist. We want everything to meet certain standards. This also applies to repairs in the house, and in particular, floors, which in this article will be a key element. There is a huge amount of floor materials. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. However, especially against the background of the rest, the self-leveling floor is different. Its main advantage is that it perfectly levels the surface. And also it is suitable as a topcoat. Such a floor can be made in any color or even have a complex pattern. And the main design novelty is 3D floors.

With design, everything is clear. There are no limits to colors and patterns. Therefore, let's get straight to the point and find out how to fill the self-leveling floor with your own hands.

Beginning of work

All construction works begin with preparation, the application of the filler floor is no exception. The first step is to inspect the surface for the presence of serious height differences. If there are any, they should be dealt with with a jackhammer.

Done? Fine. We move on, but the inspection is not over yet. Now we are looking for cracks. And if even a small gap was found, it should be repaired with special dry mixtures. You can also make a new concrete screed, which is then processed with a primer and other by special means. This will give the coating additional strength.

At the same time, do not forget that with temperature and humidity changes, the screed can be deformed. To minimize this effect, a foamed deformation tape should be glued around the entire perimeter of the room. At the end, when the self-leveling floor is already dry, this tape will need to be cut off. And seal the formed cracks with sealant.

Conditions for filling

During the pouring of the floor, certain conditions must be observed. First of all, it concerns temperature. The thermometer should not fall below +15 degrees. If the temperature is lower, then the consumption of material increases significantly. However, high temperatures also provide Negative influence. They speed up the hardening process, so you will have less time to work.

All windows and doors in the room must be closed so that there is no draft in the room. However, this is not all. The humidity level of the concrete base should not exceed 4%. If the indicator deviates upwards, the surface should be treated with a second layer of waterproofing.

Everyone knows the role of the primer? If not, read the next sentence. Primer for cement or concrete substrate is designed to increase adhesion. If you are using a cement-sand screed, a regular primer will do just fine. But with a concrete base, it will no longer “roll”, you will need to buy a special primer. It can be applied with a roller and brush (in hard-to-reach places). If the screed is too porous and dry, the procedure should be repeated. But only after the first layer has completely dried.

But now a very useful feature will be “burned”. The fact is that most of the above procedures can be dispensed with. No, this does not mean that you can pour polymer floors on an unprepared base with cracks, pits and bumps. By no means! However, a self-levelling concrete screed can be used. After drying, the floor will be perfectly flat. Another advantage of such a base leveling system is that the floor practically ceases to absorb moisture. In the case of self-leveling floors, this especially plays into the hands. But it still needs to be primed.

Necessary materials

By filling the self-leveling floor should be approached fully armed. A couple of brushes are indispensable here, however, you should not be afraid, since the set is quite standard. So, you will need:

  • Wide spatula. It will be required for the preliminary distribution of the total poured mass.
  • Needle roller, which will remove any air bubbles that have appeared.
  • Construction mixer for mixing the mixture.
  • Materials for preliminary repair.

Also, do not forget about the special sole, which is attached to the shoe. It is made in the form of high spikes. Thanks to her, footprints do not remain on the floor, and shoes do not have to be thrown away.

Carrying out the main work

So your floor is perfectly level and your tools are neatly stacked and ready to go? Fine! Let's get to work. You are unlikely to find a self-leveling floor from two different manufacturers with an absolutely identical composition. Therefore, giving universal advice on mixing components is meaningless. Therefore, to begin with, you should carefully read the instructions attached to the product, so as not to spoil everything at the very beginning.

When the mixture is successfully prepared, pour it on the floor. But only without sudden movements. If the liquid gets on the wallpaper, the wall covering will have to be changed along with the floor. It is easier to remove traces from the tile, but also very problematic. Therefore, we do everything calmly.

Further, using a spatula, the mixture should be evenly distributed throughout the room. By the way, the future floor should be poured near the far wall from the door. Also, don't forget the studded tips for your boots. If this is your first time experiencing this type of renovation experience, it's best to get a notched trowel. With it, you can more evenly distribute the composition.

Distributed? See the air bubbles? So, they shouldn't be. To get rid of them, you need to walk around the room with a needle roller.

The floor is almost ready. Now we just have to wait for it to dry. Usually you can walk on it in ordinary shoes in a day. However, you should not rush with the arrangement of furniture. The coating will be able to fully withstand serious loads only after 3 days. But it is worth considering that these terms are conditional. As already mentioned, the composition of the material is always different. And not only the mixing method depends on this, but also the solidification time.

How to make 3D floors

If a plain options self-leveling floors do not suit you, make them in 3D format. Of course, this option will give the design of the room originality and uniqueness. However, it is worth stocking up on forces, because the process of their installation is more painstaking. If you are not afraid of difficulties, read on.

To make a 3D floor, you need to do the same manipulations as when applying a conventional material. That is, pour out the liquid, distribute it around the room, remove air bubbles and wait until it dries completely. However, this is only part of the job.

Next, you will need a special large-format print that will be glued to the floor. The procedure is somewhat reminiscent of sticking wallpaper, since it is important that in the end there is not a single fold and not a single air pocket left. Instead of printing, you can also use various items, such as coins.

Now remains final stage- applying varnish. It will extend the life of the floor and protect the pattern from erasure. And if any are used decorative elements, the varnish will securely fix them.

Regardless of what kind of floors you make, 3D or regular, the result will be beautiful. However, if the whole process described seemed complicated to you, use the services of a specialist.

Video: self-leveling floor - the secrets of craftsmanship

Step-by-step technology for pouring a self-leveling floor

The technology of pouring a self-leveling floor compares favorably with concreting a screed with high productivity and low labor intensity. It is not necessary to set beacons and level the mixture, it is enough to distribute it evenly in separate parts of the room. In a single horizontal level, self-leveling compounds will spread on their own, the master will only have to expel air bubbles with a spiked roller.

Classification of self-leveling floors

The industry produces self-levelling mixtures based on organic resins (epoxy, polymer) and mineral binders (gypsum, cement). Polymer self-leveling floors are:

  • epoxy-urethane - a rational combination of plasticity and rigidity of the layer;
  • methyl methacrylate - an expensive product for outdoor use and unheated premises;
  • epoxy - prohibited in living rooms, are moisture resistant, but are destroyed by shock and vibration loads;
  • polyurethane - vibration and shock resistant, are very expensive.

Classification of polymer self-leveling floors.

Mineral self-leveling floor is more often classified by layer thickness:

  • starting - 5 - 10 cm, dry 6 - 12 hours;
  • medium thickness - 2 - 5 cm - dry for 3 hours;
  • finishing - allow you to bring horizontal surfaces to zero.

Depending on the operating conditions, self-levelling compounds are recommended for use indoors:

  • bathrooms - epoxy compounds;
  • balconies, outdoor stairs - polymer mixtures;
  • living rooms - cement and gypsum leveling or polyurethane floors;

Important! If we talk about polymer bulk compositions, then in residential premises it is recommended to use only polyurethane floors, because. only they meet all environmental and sanitary standards.

All of these materials are included in the self-leveling floor category, since they almost do not need to be leveled. However, modifications based on a mineral binder have a rough surface, are not strong enough (they emit dust when walking, although there are modifications with sufficient wear resistance), the surface does not have the necessary aesthetics of perception. They are used as perfectly even, quick-drying screeds for flooring, or as a finishing coat for industrial and warehouse premises.

The self-leveling polymeric floor has a self-sufficient design and wear resistance, therefore it is used as an independent finishing coating.

Self-leveling floor manufacturing technology

Unlike screeds, self-leveling mixtures are capricious about the quality of the base, it is forbidden to lay waterproofing and insulation under them (except for starting compounds), since adhesion to the bearing surface is sharply reduced. Self-leveling floors are very expensive, they are usually used for a thin layer, they are combined with cement-sand screeds, so it is necessary to choose a rational manufacturing technology.

Pulling the self-leveling floor to zero.

Self-leveling mortars have a high linear expansion, therefore they are cut off from the walls with a damping layer, they are never rigidly bound to the building envelope and are not reinforced with wire mesh.

Requirements for grounds

The budget for interior decoration dictates the main condition - efficiency. Self-leveling floors are applied in a thin layer, so it is extremely important to fulfill the following requirements:


Important! The self-leveling floor should be distributed only on concrete surfaces that have gained strength and have minimal moisture.

Since mineral mixtures are used for leveling and are not a decorative coating, the requirements for bases are less stringent. For a polymer self-leveling floor, even fine dust, moisture and the master's lush hair are dangerous. Therefore, professional vacuum cleaners are used, finishers work in disposable suits with elastic bands on cuffs, hats and respirators.

Damper layer and expansion joints

In contrast to the floor on the ground and concrete screed, the damper layer on the walls of the room along its perimeter is made exclusively from damper tape. Pieces of extruded polystyrene foam are not suitable for this technology. In addition to vertical load-bearing surfaces, over the entire height of the self-leveling floor with a margin of 2–3 cm, communications passing through the floor / ceiling (cold water / hot water risers, heating, sewerage) are pasted over with tape.

Damper tape sticker.

The horizontal level is marked along the tape, taking into account the highest point inside the room and the general level of all the premises of the apartment.

Breaking the horizontal level.

In large-sized premises (hozblok, garage, terrace, studio room), individual sections larger than 50 m 2 are separated by a special profile (corner) to create temperature (compensation) seams. AT small rooms temperature seam runs along the bottom doorways, decorated with finishing trim strips.

Compensation seam of a self-leveling floor.

Economical screed schemes

The main secrets of choosing economical schemes for manufacturing self-leveling floors are:

    underestimation of the level - if the highest horizontal mark of "zero" is inside the apartment, at the door in the hallway a layer of self-leveling floor will inevitably create a step that is not comfortable during the operation of the dwelling, so you can deliberately underestimate the zero level, but only within 2 cm, which will be imperceptible even in rooms 10 m 2 or less;

Lowering the floor level.

With small height differences, the required amount of self-leveling floor without concrete screed is used.

Mixing the solution

Since it is preferable to fill in one step, and the life of the solution is not too high, the technology for mixing the self-leveling floor has the following nuances:


Advice! If the ratios of the components are indicated by the manufacturer incorrectly (range ±1 l per bag of product), it is recommended to measure the spreadability yourself to select the optimal amount of liquid.

To check the spreadability, the following method is used:

  • a ring is cut out of a 5 l plastic bottle;
  • installed on a smooth slippery surface (tile, glass);
  • filled with mortar completely and carefully removed through the top.

The ideal spreadability is considered to be spreading of the solution after removing the ring to a diameter three times the size of the bottle (60 cm spot for a 20 cm cylinder).

Laying the mixture

The finished mortar is applied to separate sections of the base, taking into account the spreadability of 1/3 and the thickness of the layer along the horizontal marks on the damper tape. If necessary, the redistribution of the mixture is carried out with a spatula / trowel 20 - 30 cm from the dumped heap of the solution.

Laying begins from the corner farthest from the entrance opening of the room, the master moves inside the room on special paint shoes, periodically expels air from the solution with a spiked roller.

Cutting damper tape

Removal of excess damping material along the height is carried out with a clerical knife after the mixture has hardened. Walking is possible after 3 - 12 hours depending on the composition, full set strength takes longer.

Cutting damper tape.

If the self-leveling floor is intended as a finishing layer, additional sanding and varnishing may be required. Finishing coatings are mounted on the starting bulk floors that do not reach the walls along the perimeter of the room. The remaining gap is decorated with platbands, which are fixed to the walls, and not to the screed.

Thus, the method of pouring the self-leveling floor is much simpler and more economical. Than traditional cement-sand screed. The technology is available to a home craftsman with minimal finishing skills and a small arsenal of tools.

How to fill the self-leveling floor on the screed

Since a do-it-yourself self-leveling self-leveling floor is suitable as a quick-hardening screed and an independent topcoat, the technologies are somewhat different. AT this manual only the nuances of a self-levelling self-leveling floor under the finishing coating are considered.

Varieties of self-leveling floors

When installing a self-leveling screed, it is not enough to know how much the material dries. It is necessary to take into account all the features of self-leveling floors (NP) in the complex:

  • Base material:

On floor slabs and concrete screeds, you can pour the mixture on any binder material. If there are underfloor heating circuits in the design, dry mixes based on a mineral binder are recommended.

Before pouring, it is necessary to remove porcelain stoneware (tiles and mosaics), hardboard (hardboard), and bituminous waterproofing materials from the surface. When installing a screed on extruded polystyrene foam, plywood and other wooden coverings you will first have to pour a 4 cm floating screed reinforced with wire mesh.

There are options for coarse (10 - 100 mm), fine (1 - 10 mm) leveling. Most mixtures cannot be brought "to zero", so you have to increase the height of the floor in all areas.

Consumption of the mixture depending on the thickness of the screed.

  • Operating conditions:

For terraces, balconies, verandas, loggias and other rooms without heating, frost-resistant NP is required - acrylic-cement, cement or polyurethane, MMA. In apartments, cement, gypsum and methyl methacrylate floors are usually used. For bathrooms, a quick-drying composition of the mixture is preferable; the floors of the warehouse and garage should have high wear resistance.

Bulk floor on the balcony.

  • Finish coat:

Under linoleum and laminate is preferable budget options based on gypsum or cement. Under porcelain stoneware and tiles in a dry room, any mineral mixture is suitable, in bathrooms it is better to use a complex binder or cement base.

The gypsum is quick drying (2 - 5 hours) but not strong enough for the topcoat and pass-through areas. The cement screed is high-strength, but it hardens for a long time (more than 2 days) and does not have decorative properties. Therefore, polyurethane-cement mixtures (abrasion resistance, strength) and acrylic-cement compositions (frost resistance and lack of delamination) are produced.

Epoxy resins are prohibited in residential areas, are used for garages and industrial facilities, freeze in a day. Polyurethane self-leveling floor is expensive, but has no drawbacks, dries 12 - 20 hours. The only disadvantage of MMA binder is the unpleasant smell of the material and very fast setting (30 minutes).

Manufacturing technology

It is possible to pour correctly a screed from self-leveling mixtures inside heated and cold rooms. The technology is more expensive, but allows you to save money in the finishing process due to less consumption of tile adhesive. The frost-resistant self-leveling floor does not require additional cladding, unlike a concrete screed. The design withstands similar loads, but already has a decorative finish layer by default.

Foundation preparation

The device of a screed with self-leveling dry mixes under its own weight is much more expensive than the use of ready-mixed concrete. Therefore, the requirements of the LP technology should be observed in order not to waste the repair/finishing budget in vain and not to correct one's own mistakes. The main requirements for a cement or concrete base are:

  • absence of defective areas - cracks are embroidered with a spatula (chamfer at the edges at 45 degrees), puttied, loose surfaces are removed or treated with hardening compounds;
  • dust removal - the composition of the self-leveling floor is balanced by the manufacturer, therefore third-party inclusions, inevitably mixed with the components of the NP, reduce strength and adhesion to the base material;

Pasting the walls with damper tape.

Filling NP refers to wet technologies, since when the self-leveling screed dries, the humidity in the premises increases. Therefore, the preparatory operations for finishing or repairing can also include the partial installation of false panels and partitions made of plasterboard. Plasterboard constructions contraindicated contact with wet screeds. Therefore, the technology is applied:

  • the frame of partitions and false panels is mounted before pouring;
  • two-sided sheathing of the crate is made with narrow strips of drywall near the floor;
  • a damper tape is glued to the gypsum board.

Framework for a partition before filling of a self-leveling floor.

After pouring and drying, NP is produced finishing GKL systems. At the same time, drywall will not pick up moisture, retain strength and rigidity.

Advice! Painting work in the rooms is best done after curling the NP, so as not to scrape paint stains from the base, which reduce the adhesion of materials.

Preparing the mixture

In order to fill in the NP correctly, it is necessary to comply with the conditions indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging of the dry mix:

  • the material is added to the container with water, and not vice versa;
  • bags with OP should be in close proximity to the workplace, since the life of the solution is usually limited to 30 - 120 minutes;
  • the cement self-leveling floor traditionally includes a filler - fine sand, therefore it is forbidden to stretch the solution further than 30 - 50 cm from the place of pouring;
  • after the initial mixing with a mixer, the product must settle (5-15 minutes for different manufacturers, depending on the type of binder), since chemical hydration processes begin inside it, then it is re-mixed and poured onto the base.

Some companies indicate the ratio of NP components in a fairly wide range (for example, 8 - 9 liters of water per bag of mixture). Therefore, when kneading, you can determine the quality yourself. The recommended spreadability is 1/3, i.e.:

  • if you cut off the bottom at the lid of a plastic bottle with a diameter of 5 cm;
  • install the resulting ring on a smooth surface (glass, tile);
  • and fill it with a ready-made solution;
  • after removing the ring, the mixture should spread into a spot with a diameter of about 15 cm.

Checking the spreadability of the solution.

If the spreadability is insufficient, water must be added; if the mortar spot increases more than 15 cm, the content of the dry mixture must be increased.

fill

For walking on a self-leveling floor spilled on the surface of the base, it will be correct to use paint shoes or special soles with spikes that can be fixed with adhesive tape on any shoes.

Kraskostupy for the manufacture of screeds.

Unlike concrete screeds, the mixture is minimally leveled with a spatula, but it is necessary to remove air from it in order to ensure the uniformity of the NP structure without internal cavities. For this, a needle roller is used (issue price 500 rubles), mounted on a long wooden or plastic handle.

An ordinary or frost-resistant self-leveling floor is poured out of the container in which the mixing was carried out, in a small layer and pulled apart over the surface of the floor slab or the existing screed, first with a spatula, then with a needle roller repeatedly.

The device of perfectly flat surfaces with a self-leveling floor has nuances:

  • it is forbidden to pour the solution in one place, since NPs self-level only when applied approximately the same to all areas, so you need to distribute it with a spatula;
  • work begins at the furthest front door into the wall room;
  • due to the variety of mixture compositions, it is necessary to follow the recommendations of a particular manufacturer;
  • after a specified time, you can walk on the floor, but only to perform other operations (for example, cutting the damper tape in height);
  • the laying of the finishing floor covering is carried out after 5 - 7 days, which is also indicated on the packaging of the mixture of a particular manufacturer

If all the above conditions are met, a self-leveling self-leveling floor will provide a perfectly even horizontal level, will have the declared properties, will not crack and will not shrink over time.

Important! Innings hot water in the contours of the warm floor is allowed for 7-8 days after the final drying and hardening of the self-leveling screed.

Thus, pouring a bulk floor with self-leveling properties can be done on your own, even with minimal experience in finishing work. The main requirements are voiced by manufacturers on the packaging of dry mixes, which allows you to avoid mistakes.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there are very convenient service according to their choice. Just send in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and offers with prices from construction teams and firms will come to your mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

Heater from ceramic tiles- cheap and practical

A self-levelling floor is one of the the best options flooring in an apartment or a country house. Self-leveling mortars are used as a base for another material or as an independent coating. The self-leveling floor mixture can be poured in any room from the bedroom to the garage or workshop. The main thing is to choose the right mixtures to use. Their range today is quite wide and combines coatings with different composition, surface structure and layer thickness. Each of the mixtures has its own characteristics, filling technology and recommended area of ​​application.

What is a screed floor made of?


The main characteristic of any mixture for self-leveling floor is its composition. Depending on the components used for the production of flooring, there are four main types of compositions:

  1. The most common are floors with a cement binder. They are quite easy to install, durable and wear-resistant. The relatively low cost and a large selection of manufacturers can be added to the positive characteristics.
  2. Gypsum-based solutions are also quite popular. They are distinguished by high strength and durability, as well as the ability to fill in fairly thick layers. A significant disadvantage of mixtures with a gypsum binder is their rapid wear in rooms with high humidity.
  3. Self-levelling floor compounds based on polymers and polyurethane are the highest quality coatings. They are particularly strong and durable. Laying them will require a lot of effort and experience, but the result is an ultra-thin screed. It is from this type of mixture that it is possible to obtain a floor covering with excellent artistic characteristics. Masters manage to create real masterpieces.
  4. Combined compositions are produced on the basis of cement and polymer resins. Their price is lower than that of polymer mixtures, and the quality is higher than that of cement.

Let's consider each in more detail.

Cement self-levelling mixtures


The composition of the mixture includes three main components: cement, sand and water. Cement is used only high-quality, not containing impurities. Only in this case, the screed, after drying, will acquire the necessary hardness. The second component is pre-cleaned sand. For self-leveling floors, it is recommended to use medium fractions. Mixing water must not contain any chemical impurities. It is desirable that the pH and salt levels are within the normal range.

In addition, the composition includes the following necessary components for self-leveling floors: plasticizers, antifreeze additives, acidity modulators and moisture retaining additives. These chemical substances give the cement mortar plasticity and the ability to spread over the surface of the base.

For your information: Cement self-levelling mortars have the lowest cost among all types of mixtures. To fill such solutions, no special skills are required; even a beginner who is far from construction can do the job. These factors explain the popularity of this type of bulk coatings.

In those rooms where the level of the base has significant drops, depressions and cracks, cement mortars are used as a starting coating, and more expensive polymer mixtures are poured on top. In this way, it is possible to reduce repair costs, and it is much easier to fill on an already prepared base.

Cement-based mixtures are suitable for use in living rooms and various utility rooms.

Gypsum-based mixtures


The components of the self-leveling floor based on gypsum are almost the same as similar cement mixtures. The only difference is that gypsum is used as a binder. All the features of such a self-levelling mixture are associated with the characteristics of the binder component. Thus, gypsum hardens faster and allows you to create a thicker screed. When choosing a composition for pouring, it should be remembered that gypsum is unstable to exposure high humidity.

Tip: In this regard, the gypsum composition of the self-leveling floor is recommended to be used in dry rooms for various purposes with small loads on the floor.

Polymer compounds for pouring floors


A special place among the mixtures is occupied by polymer compositions. What is a polymer-based self-leveling floor made of?

Polyurethane solutions include polyurethane as a binder and various chemical additives, increasing the plasticity and uniformity of the solution. In addition, quartz filler can be added to the composition to increase strength and wear resistance. As a rule, a two-component self-leveling floor with fillers is used in rooms where the floor covering will succumb to regular high loads.

In methyl methacrylate solutions, the resin acts as a binder. Hardening, the floor acquires a high degree of strength and has a perfectly flat surface. To improve the quality of the coating, sand, a plasticizer and various hardeners are added to the floor mixture.

Epoxy self-leveling floors, made on the basis of epoxy resin, are used most often in rooms with a large area, industrial or industrial buildings where the floor covering will regularly experience huge loads.

Tip: Cement-acrylic mortars are suitable for rooms with high humidity, as they are not affected by moisture.

Calculation of the amount of the mixture and its preparation

After you get acquainted with the characteristics, read the reviews and decide which mixtures are most suitable for pouring the floor, you will need to calculate the required amount of composition. The density of the mixture of self-leveling floor is 1.3 kg/l per 1 m 2 . To fill a layer of 1 mm per square meter of floor, you will need 1.3 kg of dry powder, for a floor of 2 mm - 2.6 kg, and so on.

How to make a self-leveling floor compound? There are a few basic rules to keep in mind. The powder should be poured into a container of water, and not vice versa. So you can get a solution uniform consistency. The amount of water is calculated according to the recommendations on the package. It is best to knead the solution with a drill with a special nozzle. Particular attention should also be paid to the time during which the mixture thickens, and all work should be designed so that the prepared mortar is used before it begins to set.

The real owner tries to decorate the house in a stylish and original way. When creating the interior of the room, the elements of the room play their roles, complementing the ensemble. This also applies to floor coverings, which can be the main element of decoration or background, focusing on other designs.

But no matter how beautifully the floors are decorated, no matter how expensive materials are used for decoration, if the base preparation technology is violated, the service life of the floor covering is short, and repairs will have to be started again.

Therefore, consider the question: how to properly prepare the base for laying flooring.

subfloor requirements

For each type of flooring, manufacturers put forward their own requirements. However, there are also general rules.

The floor should be even, without holes and tubercles, cracks and chips. Otherwise, in those places where there will be pits, the finishing material will bend over time, and in places of tubercles it will rise, which will lead to the destruction of the coating in these places.

The base must be strong in compression and not collapse under the influence of interior elements or when people move along the floor covering.

The floor to be laid must be dry. It is not allowed to lay the finish coat on a wet subfloor. Humidity always contributes to the defeat of structures by mold or other types of fungi.

To create an even and durable base, self-leveling compounds based on gypsum or cement are used.

Advantages and disadvantages of cement self-leveling screed

Advantages of cement screed

  • used for leveling floors in dry and wet rooms;
  • it is possible to perform a screed with a thickness of 2 mm to several centimeters;
  • leveling the floor does not cause difficulties and can be performed even if the person performing such work has no experience;
  • the screed is durable and wear-resistant;
Ready poured cement floor
  • the drying time of the solution is reduced;
  • when using ready-made formulations, it is enough to add the right amount of water to the mixture and the solution is ready for use.

Disadvantages of cement screed

  • high price of the mixture;
  • dismantling is more problematic.

Characteristics of the mixture for the cement composition

The mixture consists of three components: water, cement and sand.

Attention! For the preparation of the mixture, only high-quality components are used without additional impurities.

The binder component is Portland cement grades M300 - M500. The filler is pure sand of medium fraction.

Additionally, plasticizers and other chemical additives are introduced that change some properties of the finished solution, for example: hardening time.


Mixture for self-leveling floor

Additives are divided into two classes:

  • polymeric, which include modifiers, plasticizers, inhibitors, etc.;
  • mineral and organic additives, for example: fiberglass, which gives strength to the screed, or lemon acid, which increases the curing time of the solution.

Varieties of cement mixtures for self-leveling floors

Depending on the purpose of the screed, the following types of mixtures are distinguished:

  • Basic, designed for rough leveling of the subfloor. In this case, the thickness of the layer reaches several centimeters.
  • Finishing, designed for finishing surface leveling. It is carried out in a thin layer up to 5 mm.

How to make self-leveling cement floors with your own hands

In order for self-leveling floors to be even, durable and wear-resistant, it is necessary to follow the order of work.

Tools to get the job done

Before pouring, prepare the tools:

  • drill with a nozzle;
  • grinder and grinder;
  • container for mixing the solution;
  • respirator and gloves to protect against exposure to harmful substances;
  • a special construction vacuum cleaner to remove dust from the surface of the base under the self-leveling floor;
  • spatula or rule to create a flat floor surface;
  • needle roller in order to remove air bubbles from the cement screed;
  • paint shoes - shoes for moving on a freshly poured screed.

Shoes for walking on unfrozen self-leveling floors

Preparatory stage

Before starting work, prepare the base for the self-leveling screed.

Repair cracks, large chips and pits with a cement-sand mortar. This will reduce the consumption of mortar for self-leveling floor. Sections of the leveling layer are of different thickness and dry at different times, which leads to the fact that the strength of the screed in different places is different.

Remove bumps with a grinder or grinder.

There should be no greasy stains on the surface of the floors. If there are any, then degrease the floor in this place. If the area of ​​contamination is large, then cover with a special construction lining paper.

The base must be clean. Vacuum the screed before pouring.

The screed must be completely dry.

For good adhesion of the mortar and the base, the floor surface is pre-primed. The choice of primer depends on the base material. If the base is porous, then the primer is applied in several layers. Filling is carried out a few hours after applying the soil.

Then, using a horizontal line, mark the level of the new floor. To do this, measure the desired height on the wall and make marks with a pencil and a level.

Attention! The minimum thickness of the fill is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging of the mixture for leveling the floor.

To make it more convenient to fill, you can install beacons on the base.

Further along the perimeter of the room, a damper tape is laid, which is 1 cm wider than the thickness of the fill. It is also laid if the floor surface is leveled in the house different formulations. Without the use of a tape, due to the different coefficients of thermal expansion of gypsum and cement, the screed in the contact area can be destroyed.

Now knead the mortar for the self-leveling floor. For this in large capacity knead the leveling mixture with the right amount of water. The proportions for the solution are taken from the instructions that manufacturers indicate on the package. To facilitate kneading, use a mixer or a special nozzle on a drill.

How to make a homogeneous solution for self-leveling floor? To do this, first pour water into the container, and then add the mixture. If you do the opposite, then there will be lumps in the finished solution.

When mixing the solution, use gloves and respirators, as some additives can release toxic substances.

First stage. Filling the floor

Start pouring from the far corner of the room and lead towards the exit from the room. Since the solution dries quickly, it is prepared in separate portions. The finished solution is poured onto the floor and leveled.


Leveling the surface of the screed

Then compacted with a spiked roller.


Sealing the screed with a needle roller

Second phase. Drying and sanding

When the mixture has set, the surface is polished with a grinder.

You can move on the screed 2 - 3 hours after pouring. However, laying the flooring or performing further processing is possible only after a day.

In order for the screed to dry evenly, it must be protected from direct sunlight. Do not use heaters to speed up drying.

Despite the emergence of new compounds with high performance characteristics, the traditional concrete floor is unlikely to ever go out of use. The main reason for its popularity is the high strength of surfaces obtained from cement-based materials. Designs from monolithic concrete, reinforced with reinforcement, withstand the highest loads in metallurgical shops, large warehouses, multi-storey buildings.

Inexpensive and high quality

Among the advantages of a concrete floor, its cost is not in the last place. To date, this is one of the most budgetary coatings, it is possible to arrange it even with the most modest income. Therefore, this type of floors, despite the presence in free access new materials, heavy-duty and easy to install, such as epoxy or polymer compounds, a stable level of demand is maintained. Indeed, due to the high cost modern innovations and features of the laying technology, it is almost impossible to make a screed with a thickness of more than 10 mm from them.

Features of the implementation of the screed for different types of coatings

Only after laying the cement screed floor is it possible to make a bulk layer of polymers. This symbiosis results in a durable and decorative floor covering that is resistant to most possible influences. It is not afraid of moisture and temperature changes, aggressive chemical environment and different types loads. Concrete surface before laying bulk polymer or epoxy floors are sanded until a perfectly flat floor is obtained. This is done to avoid the additional cost of filling recesses in uneven concrete with expensive polymers.

Careful leveling of the surface is practiced not only for the installation of self-leveling floors, such a coating is necessary for laying:

  • highly aesthetic laminate;
  • elite parquet;
  • modern PVC tiles;
  • traditional linoleum.

Any materials that require a perfectly even base are laid on the surface of polished concrete. Only after such processing is it possible to perform high-quality work.

The screed as a clean floor is used only in utility rooms, warehouses, garages, basements. Bearing in mind the properties of the top layer of concrete to collapse under the influence of external circumstances, the surface of the screed is painted with special paints or impregnated with hardening compounds. The floor, the top layer of which is protected, lasts much longer, does not dust and does not collapse.

3 ways to install a cement floor

Dry screed - clean and easy installation

In the case of concrete, a dry screed is not made from bulk materials, but from cement-bonded particle boards made from wood chips, Portland cement, hydration additives and water. All materials are mixed into a homogeneous mass under production conditions, pressed into forms provided by GOST. Cement particle board is a material with low thermal conductivity, it is used for construction even in the northern regions. It works well in conditions of high humidity, the substances that make up its composition prevent the formation and development of pathogenic microorganisms on the surface.

When installing the floor, the slabs are laid on a leveling backfill or frame wooden blocks after the installation of a waterproofing layer. To obtain a high-quality base, they are placed in two layers with a seam shift. The wood that is part of the slabs tends to expand, so a gap of 10 mm must be left between them and the walls.

More modern way Dry screed devices are the technology of the world famous company KNAUF. You can read more about it.

Semi-dry screed - a flat floor without effort

Making floors with this method is much easier than the classic one, using the traditional concrete mix. Enough to purchase necessary materials: cement grade M 400, sand, fiber and plasticizing additives, mixed with a small amount of water, and can be laid on the prepared base.

Determining the required degree of moisture content of the mixture is simple. To do this, you need to squeeze a small amount in your fist. If water is released, the addition of dry materials is required, for such a screed the humidity is unnecessarily high. In order not to make a mistake with the concentration, they buy a ready-made solution, mixed and moistened in the right proportions.

For an unprepared beginner, the accuracy of setting beacons is a certain difficulty, but the problem is quickly solved with the acquisition of a laser level. Before laying the mixture, the base is covered with a waterproofing film with a mandatory overlap on the walls. The mixture is poured, leveled by the rule according to the beacons and polished with a special trowel.

Wet screed - the traditional way

This is a process worked out by many generations of builders. Any bases are poured with a cement screed - from the leveling layer lying on the ground to floor slabs. Depending on the purpose of the premises, before starting work, a waterproofing layer, heat and sound insulation are arranged on the base. In order for the screed surface to lie strictly horizontally, the level of the zero mark is beaten off on the walls - the highest point of the floor relief. Focusing on it, the floor is divided into separate sectors with beacon rails. Beacons are installed parallel to each other, carefully aligned to the zero mark and fixed on the base with small portions of cement mortar.

For flooded floors of a large area, a ready-made solution is used, brought by a special machine - a mixer. Its supply to the place of work is carried out by a concrete pump. In industrial premises with high loads on the base concrete work preceded by mandatory reinforcement, performed using metal, polymer, fiberglass meshes, or micro-reinforcement with fiberglass.

How to make a screed with your own hands

Pouring concrete mix

To make a concrete floor screed with your own hands, it is not advisable to order a mixer. Solution in small quantities easier and cheaper to make your own. To arrange a screed of sufficient strength, mix M 400 cement with sifted river sand in a ratio of 1: 3. Thus, 16.7 kg of sand will go to 50 kg of cement. To make the mixture easier to level, a plasticizer is added to it. For the specified amount of cement and sand, it will take 190 g. Water is poured into the container with materials last, the approximate amount is 1/3 of the mass of cement. The consumption of the mixture can be made using.

It is good if the farm has a concrete mixer, with the help of this equipment the solution is prepared quickly and easily. Another way is to mix the mixture with a manual construction mixer. The finished solution is successively placed in the sectors formed by the beacon rails, smoothed out flush with them by the building rule. Lighthouses can be left in the floor screed forever, although some craftsmen, after the mortar has hardened, take them out and fill the resulting cavities with concrete.

The room maintains a constant temperature at a level of 5 to 25°C. To prevent evaporation of moisture and too rapid drying of the screed, its surface is covered with plastic wrap. Full maturation of concrete occurs after 28 days. Now you can lay the finishing floor.

Floor repair

If the concrete floor began to dust, this is an alarm signal. Such phenomena occur as a result of the appearance of microcracks. At their first signs, work should be carried out to strengthen the upper layer, then concrete destruction will not occur and the floor will last as long as possible. When small cracks form, they are puttied with cement mortar.

Another thing is if deep cracks and potholes appear in the surface. This floor is in need of a major overhaul. Potholes are filed with an angle grinder with a diamond wheel, rectangular recesses are formed with a perforator. Cracks are embroidered to obtain notches of a triangular profile. All areas prepared for patching are carefully dedusted and primed. A day later, they are sealed with a cement-sand mixture and leveled with a rule.

Pothole repair

If the sealant poured into the expansion joints ceased to perform its functions, and moisture got into them, the concrete begins to quickly collapse. If repair is necessary, the old sealant is completely removed from the seams, the seams are embroidered with a grinder, the dust is removed from them construction vacuum cleaner. The internal cavity of the joints is primed and filled with fresh polyurethane sealant. After it hardens, the surface is rubbed and painted, you can read more about this.

So that the work does not seem overwhelming, and the process itself proceeds smoothly and without unpleasant nuances, you need to follow the main stages of the pouring technology. This is an important point, since the result will depend on the correct execution of work at each stage.

Preparation of the base for cement pouring

This stage is considered the most important, the final result of your work will depend on it. For example, you were irresponsible about cleaning the surface of construction debris, and you didn’t have enough strength to level it. Get the result you work for. An uneven surface will make itself felt at the stage of pouring concrete - the bulk mass will flow down.

For the most part, a concrete base is chosen for the bulk coating, which is why the requirements for it are quite stringent:

  • the base must be made as even as possible;
  • all cracks and defects must be leveled;
  • before pouring the floor, one should not forget about the waterproofing of the base;
  • clean the floors of various debris and dirt, remove oil stains, if any.

The easiest way to fulfill all these requirements is to perform a concrete screed on the base, trying to level it. This will help hide all the bumps, and everything else on the screed is more convenient to lay the material for waterproofing.

After the screed has dried, it is necessary to carry out priming work. For this, one-component varnish is most often used. It is applied in two layers and each of them is thoroughly dried. With the correct application of the primer on the surface, it will look like a large sandpaper. The purpose of the primer is to create a perfect bond with the base fill material.

If, after application, the primer began to foam and darken, you need to wait a little longer for it to dry completely, up to 24 hours. After the base has dried, puttying works are carried out, which contribute to the maximum leveling of the surface.

Installation of beacons

After carrying out all the preparatory work, you need to take on the fixing of beacons - guides that will contribute to the uniform application of the cement-containing composition. This can be dispensed with if the floor is poured in a small area, but in large rooms beacons cannot be neglected. Otherwise, you will not be able to apply the cement mixture evenly.

Thanks to the installation of beacons, you will get the main area, divided into segments, due to which you can gradually pour the concrete solution. Beacons are fixed with the same concrete mixture that will be used for pouring.

How to prepare a mortar for a cement self-leveling floor?

When the solution completely solidified under the beacons, it was time to prepare the mixture for pouring. When picking up a package with a dry mix, you must carefully study the attached instructions. Pour the required amount of water into a pre-prepared container and pour the contents of the package into it.

In order to obtain a homogeneous mass without lumps, you can stir the solution with a drill with a nozzle. After that, the solution is left for a while, and then another mixing approach is taken. It is not recommended to use the drill at maximum speed, only low speeds will guarantee the highest quality mixture.

The process of pouring cement self-leveling floor

The technology for pouring a cement floor is that for a good result it should be poured in two layers, of which the first layer is called the underlying, and the second is the front or finish.

Filling the underlying layer contributes to the final leveling of the base, removes all minor irregularities. The result is the perfect finish for the final coat. The thickness of the first layer should not exceed 2 millimeters.

Apply finishing layer, aligning it with a rake. After that, it is necessary to carry out a spiked roller over the pouring area, capable of removing all the bubbles that affect the quality of the final result. By means of the same roller, the color can be distributed over the surface. As soon as the self-leveling floor is dry, expansion joints should be sealed with sealant.