Finishing a balcony or loggia with drywall with your own hands - step by step instructions with photos and descriptions. Balcony finishing with plasterboard: step by step instructions Balcony insulation and plasterboard lining

06.03.2020

If you are in doubt whether it is worth sheathing the balcony with drywall (gypsum plasterboard), and at the same time insulating it, read this article. She will help you make a choice. After all, a balcony or loggia trimmed with such material, firstly, looks much more aesthetically pleasing. And secondly, a layer of thermal insulation hidden behind the cladding will allow you to get a room where you can have a good time in any weather and season.

Pros and cons of drywall

Advantages:

Finishing balconies and loggias with plasterboard is carried out quickly.
Plasterboard cladding makes load-bearing structures stronger and more durable.
GKL is a fire-resistant material (due to gypsum), which in the event of a fire will prevent the spread of fire.
This is budget stuff.
Sheathing a loggia or balcony with drywall allows you to insulate it.
GKL can be used for cladding or arranging walls, ceilings, and also as partitions. With it, you can close large defects, or you can get different design forms.
Sheathing the balcony with drywall allows you to mount spectacular built-in lighting.

Disadvantages:

As a rule, GKL is not waterproof. When installed in bathrooms, basements, open balconies or other areas with high humidity, it can adversely affect his condition. And wet material is affected by mold. After getting wet, the material must be changed.
GKL can be easily damaged, as it is not resistant to impact. Thus, you may have problems with holes, damaged corners, peeling tapes, cracked joints.
Although the drywall is quite easy to install, the craftsmen must be experienced, because the finishing of the loggias with drywall must be done correctly, otherwise you will have connection problems.

When installed, this material creates a lot of dust that can easily spread throughout the house. The disadvantages of the GKL are actually quite solvable problems.

Types of drywall

Normal. It is white on one side and brown on the other. This is probably the most economical type of drywall, repair and finishing with such drywall is carried out everywhere. Available in thicknesses from 3/8 to 1 inch (1-2.5 cm). This is the most common type, usually sold in 1.2 by 2.4 m (3 square meters) panels.
Green (Moisture resistant). It has a green coating, which makes it more resistant to moisture. It is somewhat more expensive than the usual GKL. Used in wet areas: in the walls of bathrooms, basements, kitchens, laundries, utility rooms. But it is not waterproof, so it is not suitable for places where it will be in direct contact with water.
Blue (Moisture resistant). It is used for wood cladding, because. has special absorbent properties, and wood finishing requires fewer steps. It is highly resistant to water and mildew. Worked great in bathrooms and other wet areas. In addition, this type significantly reduces noise, and also produces little dust when working with it. This is great choice for loggias and balconies.
Paperless. Coated with fiberglass rather than paper, which protects the material from rot and provides excellent mold resistance. The structure is a little more complex than regular drywall, but it is easier to cut. Remember that you need to protect yourself when working with fiberglass materials.
Violet. This is superior moisture resistant material, which has the same advantages as conventional gypsum board, but with superior moisture and mildew resistance. It can be installed on all walls along with the ceiling. Suitable for areas where required increased stability to moisture and mold. If the surface will be in contact with water, this is the material to use.
Type X. This is the so-called fire-resistant drywall. Multiple layers can be used to achieve higher fire resistance. Finishing the loggia with such drywall will allow you to get a room where you can smoke without fear. But cutting and processing such a GKL is more difficult than a conventional panel. It is commonly used in garages where special fire regulations are required.
Soundproof. It is a laminated material from a mixture of wood fibers, gypsum and polymers that increase the STC (sound transmission class). This material is denser than regular drywall, so it can be a little more difficult to work with than other types. Finishing the loggia with such drywall with insulation will allow you to get a quiet, comfortable room.

Tools and materials for installation

materials

Plasterboard panels.
To fill gaps between sheets special blend(most often it is acrylic putty).
Paper or fiberglass (serpyanka) tape for processing joints.
Plasterboard profiles.
Corner made of metal or paper, for drawing.
Internal, external corners from metal profiles.
Nails, drywall screws.
Grinding mesh or sandpaper.

Instruments

Knife for cutting plates.
Nozzle for a drill for cutting holes in sheets.
Metal scissors.
Spatulas 13 (15) and 25 cm wide for finishing seams.
Trowel angular plasterboard.
Container for putty.
Drywall lift, T-jack, or Dtrywall T-square. Used for lifting and then holding drywall sheets on the ceiling.
Electric screw gun, or screwdriver.
Drill.
Mount damper. Used to prevent twisting of screws.
Measuring tape (roulette).
Sanding block.
Vacuum cleaner.
Mop.
Protective glasses.
A hammer.
Marking pencil.

Do-it-yourself installation technology

It begins with the fact that the old interior decoration on the balcony is completely dismantled, if necessary, the surfaces are protected by a grinder. Identified cracks and recesses should be plastered so that the wind does not blow into them. The floor of the balcony must be waterproofed, this can be done with ordinary roofing material or mastic. Further, all drywall surfaces on the balcony are treated with an antiseptic primer to prevent the development of mold. After the primer dries, the balcony is insulated with foam plastic or foam plastic. If the balcony is closed, you can use glass wool. Balcony insulation with one drywall is ineffective. After sealing the seams of the insulation mounting foam or with special glue, foil insulation is mounted on it. After all these works, you can proceed to the device of the crate.

Lathing design

The first step is to install a UD profile on the ceiling. It is attached to the dowels, then the position of the UD profile on the floor is marked strictly vertically under it along the plumb line. The ceiling and floor profiles are screwed with screws in increments of 20-30 cm. Then guide profiles are installed in the corners of the balcony, ideally using a laser building level. The elements are connected by cutters.

Then the rack profiles are set in increments of no more than 60 cm. They are attached to the ceiling and floor rails with self-tapping screws. The guides are attached to the wall with perforated brackets in increments of 40-50 cm. Final stage crates - installation of transverse elements in increments of 40 cm. They are connected to the guides through "crabs", i.e. cross fittings. After the installation of the crate, engineering communications are carried out behind it, incl. wiring. It should be laid in special fire-prevention channels made of polymers.

Installation of drywall sheets

First, drywall boards are marked, then cut. In this case, a carpenter's knife is used. They make an incision on one side, then the sheet breaks, after which it is cut from the opposite side. It must be remembered that the material in order to avoid getting wet should not touch the floor. The distance from the sheet to the floor should be at least 1 cm.

The next step is cutting holes for electrical appliances. You can use a drill with a special nozzle "skirt".

This stage ends with the fastening of the cut GKL to the profiles with self-tapping screws, in increments of 20 cm. The fastener caps must be recessed into the plaster. The cut edges of the sheets are set close to each other, and the unedged edges of the sheets must be set at a distance of about 5 mm between them.

Finishing

General tips for finishing for painting.

Keep your spatula and other tools as clean as possible. Remove the excess layer of putty after each pass of the spatula.
Never mix dried putty with fresh putty. The dried composition will leave an uneven surface. Remove completely dried composition from the mixing container.
For better mixing of the mixture, use the mixing attachment attached to an electric drill.

So, make sure that ALL screws are installed correctly, i.e. embedded in the material. You must run the spatula over all the screws - if the spatula touches the head, then the screw should be tightened more.

For grouting, use a quick-drying gypsum plaster or putty with low shrinkage, preferably acrylic. Do not draw too much on the spatula. This will minimize waste.

Use flexible spatulas. Joints and holes are sealed in two movements: first, the seam is filled with the compound by moving the spatula across, and then the excess is removed by moving the spatula along the seam. Start by patching the butt joints at the ends of the cut drywall sheets.

After completing all butt joints, move on to conical joints. Conical - these are not cut seams along the edges of drywall sheets.

The last areas to be machined are the inside corners, followed by outside corners. When finishing internal corners drywall joints, work one side at a time.

Once the butt joint is filled with putty, cut off a piece of tape and stick it over the joint. The tape should be stuck in the center of the seam. Cut the tape to the length of all the seams that you will finish before starting. Important advice: Soak the reinforcing tape in a bucket of water before sticking.

Once the tape is in place and smoothed out, cover the entire joint with more putty, this time using a wide spatula. Wipe off any excess that is squeezed out of the joints. It is best to leave the compound for 24 hours before applying a second coat.

After processing the joints, the fastener heads are also closed with putty, all excess is scraped off with a spatula.

After the two layers of putty at the joints have completely dried, the surface is polished as necessary with a sheet of fine sandpaper. After removal of dust from the surface, possible detected defects are smeared for the third time.

Drywall painting. How to paint?

Finishing the balcony with any drywall ends more often with painting than with wallpapering.

Before painting, carefully inspect the surfaces with a flashlight. Sand the imperfections with 150 grit sandpaper.
Sweep the dust off the walls and let it settle.
Sweep and then mop the floor.
Wipe the walls with a barely damp sponge.
Treat the surface to be painted with a special primer, especially carefully - at the corners and joints.
After the primer dries, apply 2 coats of paint. More than 2 coats may be needed, each applied after the previous has dried. First, the corners are painted with a brush, then the rest of the surface is painted with a roller. The paint is applied with a roller in two directions: first along, then across.

Drywall 6 Mistakes Everyone Should Know!

Sooner or later, thoughts about repairing a balcony visit each of us. Along with such important components as glazing, heat and vapor barrier, wall and ceiling cladding plays a special role. Because this stage is business card"balcony, his" face ". And what it will be depends on the choice facing material. At the same time, one of the most popular options is finishing the balcony with drywall. In all the subtleties of this issue, we will try to figure it out today.

Pros and cons of drywall

Drywall is a layer of gypsum covered with cardboard on the outside. It is used for covering the ceiling and walls in the house. The flexibility of the material makes it possible to carry out wall and ceiling structures of almost any complexity on its basis. Sheathing a balcony with drywall has the following advantages:

Leveling the surface of any degree of curvature. While plaster (the main "competitor" of drywall) can level a maximum wall with a 1.5-centimeter thickness of curvature;
Cleanliness of work, because of which this material is also called "dry plaster";
The ability to hide small pipes and electrical wiring under the interior plasterboard;
Soundproofing;
Simplicity and speed of work, the ability to create multi-tiered suspended ceilings;
Possibility of placement on the balcony under plasterboard sheathing of steam and heat insulation;
Hygroscopicity, due to which air exchange is maintained between the wall and the balcony;
Availability due to low price;
Multivariate lighting: the use of built-in lamps, ice lighting.

There are many advantages to cladding a balcony with drywall.

But, like all materials, drywall is not alien to shortcomings. These include low resistance to mechanical stress.

Important!
Therefore, covering the balcony with drywall does not imply further attachment of heavy objects to the walls, since under their weight the material can simply collapse.

Also, the casing is located at a certain distance from the wall, which as a result reduces the volume of an already small room. Well, ordinary drywall is not resistant to moisture. But this shortcoming is easy to fix. It is enough to choose waterproof drywall for covering the balcony. How is it different from the usual? Now we'll find out.

Types of drywall

Not every drywall on the loggia, with its high humidity and temperature changes, will behave properly. The industry produces several types of this material, which differ primarily in their characteristics. Let's list them:

GKL - ordinary drywall;
GKLV - moisture-resistant material contains fungicidal and hydrophobic additives, it is allowed to work in such wet areas as a bathroom, kitchen, balcony, including on the floor;
GKLO - fire-resistant drywall with fiberglass reinforcement;
Vinyl (laminated) coated with PVC film, ready for finishing without prior puttying;
Restoration plasterboard - a thinner sheet designed for the restoration of old plasterboard and wooden structures;
Arched thin flexible drywall: finishing balconies inside with this material is used when it is planned to make an arch instead of a door.

In addition to the composition of drywall, the dimensions of its sheet also vary. It is produced with a width of 0.6 - 1.2 m, a length of 2-4 m and a thickness of 6-12.5 mm. Sheets of smaller sizes are suitable for working on small balconies, larger ones - on spacious long loggias.

Material happens different types, depending on resistance to fire and moisture

For the installation of massive drywall sheets, remarkable physical strength and the help of a partner are required. It is almost impossible to do this work alone. If the installation specifications are not observed, cracks may appear on the skin over time. What are these conditions, and in what order are the works performed? Read below.

Step-by-step instructions for facing a balcony or loggia with drywall
Finishing the loggia with drywall is done after its glazing. First, a crate is made on the ceiling and walls. Then - directly sheathe. But first of all, you need to stock up on the necessary materials and tools.

Materials and tools

To work, you need a standard set of tools, which is usually in the house of every master or repair enthusiast. If something is still missing, then it is better to take care of its acquisition in advance, so as not to waste your time on it later. So, to finish the loggia with drywall, you will need the following tools and materials:

water or laser level;
waterproofing and vapor barrier film;
insulation (ecothermix, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene);
roulette;
dowel-screws or dowel-nails;
hacksaw for metal;
wood saw;
rule 2-2.5 m;
single-level profile connectors (the so-called "crabs");
a hammer;
ceiling profiles and guides;
stationery knife;
wood scissors;
screwdriver;
perforator;
drill;
stapler for furniture;
electric jigsaw.
drywall;
mounting foam;
putty for sealing joints.

Installation of guide profiles and frame

The interior decoration of the balcony with drywall begins with the manufacture of a frame on the ceiling and walls, on which the finishing material itself will subsequently be attached.

First, the crate of the balcony is performed, on which sheets of drywall will be attached.

The preparatory stage is carried out in this order.

Remove the old finish from the ceiling and walls, clean from dirt.
Blow out the cracks with mounting foam, apply an antiseptic against fungus and mold.
Mark the ceiling, for which draw a center line in the center of the room, perpendicular to which to make the rest of the line.
Step back from the joint with the ceiling 3-5 cm and draw one line along the entire perimeter along the walls (the lower border of the frame).
Make marks on the ceiling at intervals equal to 1/3 of the length of the drywall sheet.
Cut the profile to the desired length with metal shears.
Fasten the guide profiles to the wall. To do this, attach the profile to the line planned in advance and mark the places for drilling through the holes.
Drill holes in the wall with a hammer drill.
Fix the profile with dowels.
Attach the profiles to the ceiling with anchors along the edges and in the middle, starting from the corners of the balcony for subsequent plasterboard sheathing. It is advisable to do this with a partner, since bending or breaking the profile in this case is unacceptable.
With a step of 40 cm, fix the second profile. Do the same on the other side of the balcony.
If the length of one profile is not enough, then cut another of the required length, and connect their joints with crabs to self-tapping screws.
After the ceiling, carry out the crate of the walls. To do this, mark lines with an interval of 0.6 m, attach a profile and mark the places for drilling holes.
Drill holes, attach profiles and fix them with dowels.
In the place where the joint of drywall sheets is supposed to be, lay a double crate.
Cut sheets of insulation of the desired size with a margin. Attach them to the wall between the crate, cover with vapor barrier roll foil on top, which is attached to the frame with brackets using a mounting stapler.

Plasterboard ceiling sheathing

Drywall installation

The cladding is installed in the same order as the crate: first we perform work on the ceiling, then on the walls. In this case, a step-by-step list of actions is as follows.

Prepare drywall. Cut out sheets of the required size. Make holes in them for the lamps.
Remove an edge (chamfer) from a sheet of drywall at an angle, so that later it will be easier to putty the joints of two sheets. Tight joints are not allowed due to the possible deformation of the sheet in the future. They are filled with a special putty.
Fix the first sheet on the ceiling with a self-tapping screw at a distance of 15-20 cm from the corner of the wall in increments of 20 cm. It is better to drown the screw head.
Start finishing the walls with the largest of them, where a whole drywall sheet is placed. Similarly to the ceiling, fix the sheet with self-tapping screws every 20-25 cm, sinking the caps.
After the interior plasterboard finish is finished, you need to prime the walls and ceiling.
Lay a sickle (reinforcing tape) along the seams between the sheets.
Putty surfaces, paying special attention to seams and joints.
Repeat the priming procedure, thereby preparing the walls and ceiling for subsequent painting or wallpapering.

Putty joints of sheets and places of fastening with screws

During installation, some difficulties may arise that cannot always be foreseen in advance. To avoid common mistakes beginners, we recommend that you listen to the advice of experienced craftsmen and follow the instructions clearly.

To create comfort in the house, it is important to pay attention to every part of it. Finishing the balcony with drywall will allow you to insulate, as well as make it more attractive without serious financial costs.

photos

Pros and cons of drywall

Drywall appeared at the end of the last century and immediately became popular due to its practicality and functionality.

Pros:

Environmental friendliness. The material is absolutely harmless to humans and environment does not emit any hazardous substances.
Providing excellent sound insulation. This is not so important for finishing a balcony, but due to this property, the material is often used to create interior partitions.
Thermal insulation. Despite the small thickness, drywall reliably retains heat indoors.
Plastic. The material is easily cut with a regular knife, which allows it to be used in any repair.
Fire resistance. Previously, the material was considered low-combustible. Now it has become absolutely non-combustible, as it meets certain requirements of GOST and SNIP standards.
Light weight. This quality of drywall makes finishing much easier for workers.
Ease of installation. Working with the material is so simple that it is ideal for amateur DIY repairs.
However, drywall is not ideal in the world. building materials. It also has disadvantages.
Fragility. When transporting and installing the material, it is important to be careful. With significant mechanical pressure, its deformation is possible.
Hygroscopicity. Non-moisture resistant drywall tends to easily absorb moisture. Therefore, before work, it must be left open for a couple of days. Moisture-resistant type of material does not need preliminary "airing". You can determine the resistance of the material to moisture by the green marking on the back of the sheets.
Reducing the floor space. A feature of the installation of drywall is the reduction of space. This is due to the thickness of the sheets of material, putty and frame.
Additional processing of sheets. So far, there is no such material with a finished coating on sale. With any repair involving drywall, finishing is required.

Kinds

This material has several varieties that differ in their characteristics.

Normal. Such material has White color. Suitable for rooms with moderate temperature regime and humidity.
Fire resistant. This species is painted in reddish or pinkish tones. Ideal for areas with a high level of fire safety control.
Moisture resistant. This material is green or blue color. Can be used in bathrooms and other areas with high humidity. It weighs a little more than usual.

What option to choose for cladding balcony walls from the inside? Undoubtedly, a moisture-resistant type of drywall is needed here. Its sheets have a special coating that protects the material from wetting and deformation. A special antifungal impregnation will prevent possible negative processes in the wall.

These factors are important to consider. After all, even when the balcony is insulated, temperature changes and changes in humidity create special conditions in this space that require the necessary care.

Preparation for work

If you decide to sheathe the balcony with drywall, you will need to carry out preparatory measures. Prepare everything you need for work.

Bring the drywall itself, an electric drill, a screwdriver and a hammer drill. To mount the frame, you will need UD and CD profiles. You will connect profiles with the help of crabs. You will also need suspensions, a level, a plumb line. Don't forget the metal screws. And of course, materials for insulation and vapor barrier.

Equally important is the preparation of the room. If you plan to change double-glazed windows, then do it before starting work. It is also necessary to check the integrity of the surface of the walls.

If cracks are found, clean them with a grinder and putty with a moisture-resistant material. Then prime the walls and ceiling. It is better to repeat this several times. Excellent for these purposes, a reliable and wear-resistant primer with PVA is suitable.

For maximum protection walls from unwanted influences external factors you can cover them with an antifungal and water-repellent agent.

After preliminary work, wait 13-15 hours until the sheathing itself.

Stages of work on fixing drywall:

lathing installation
insulation and creation of a vapor barrier
attaching the material to finished construction

Lathing installation

Measure the area of the walls. Then cut the UD and CD metal profiles. UD - guides. They are required for installation. CD - rack. They will help create a frame.
Fix the UD to the ceiling. Maintain a step of 40-50 cm. Take a building level or plumb line and draw lines from the UD. This will help ensure that the bottom guide is installed evenly.
Also install the bottom UD and corner rails. A cutter will help connect the UD to each other. Side UDs are fixed with screws.
Then install the CD. Cut the profile to the desired length and insert into the "frame" between the upper and lower UD. Here, fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws at two points (top and bottom). Fasten the other longitudinal CDs in the same way.
Fix vertical profiles with hangers. They make the structure more durable. Fasten them in 40-50 cm increments along the length of each CD. For absolute fixation, use self-tapping screws.
Then combine the hangers with the profile. Screws and metal "paws" come in handy here. Installation step transverse profiles calculated by the height of the walls. Usually it is 40-50 cm.
Places in which vertical and horizontal profiles are combined with each other put "crabs". Fix them with screws.
It must be remembered that for proper wall cladding, vertical frame profiles must be fixed in increments of 60 cm.

Warming and vapor barrier

Lay the insulation between the profiles. When sheathing a balcony, this necessary condition. The type of insulation is determined by the master. It can be penoplex, mineral wool or something else.

Cut the insulation into equal parts. The size of the segments is determined by the size of the "cells" in which you will install the insulation. To fix it, use a special adhesive mixture. Fixation is carried out with dish-shaped dowels.

Lay a vapor barrier on top of the insulation. To fix it, use glue and a mounting stapler. On the drywall, draw marks for fastening to the profiles. Then cut out the necessary part of the sheet and attach it to the frame with the back side of the green color.

Make holes according to the markup. Use an electric drill. A step of 30-40 cm is needed here. Insert self-tapping screws into the holes and tighten them with a screwdriver carefully and not to the very end. Remember that excessive pressure on drywall can deform it. Install all sheets in the same way.

photos

Final finish

At the end, preparation for cladding is carried out. Coat the drywall surface with a primer. Place paper tape over the seams between the sheets of material. In its absence, you can use a special grid. Then apply 2 layers of putty.

Finishing the balcony with drywall - easy and affordable

Drywall on the balcony: the pros and cons

The balcony is a great place in the apartment: it is convenient to store old things, bicycles, strollers, cribs and other unused interior items here. But sooner or later, each of us thinks about converting this room from a warehouse into a usable area. Hence the question arises: How to sheathe a balcony and what materials should be used correctly?

This can be done with plastic clapboard, profiled sheet, PVC panels, drywall, or simply apply plaster to the walls and ceiling, and then cover them with fine putty and paint. However, the repair does not mean cosmetic corrections of the general appearance of the room, but a complete change in interior design. Therefore, the option with plaster immediately disappears. PVC panels and plastic lining cause a lot of trouble with installation, and for many, the installation of these materials is not at all possible.

Drywall allows you to realize interesting design solutions

There are two options left. Usually, the outer part of the balcony is sheathed with a professional sheet, because this material has excellent anti-corrosion properties and an ergonomic appearance. Agree, it is difficult to imagine a balcony sheathed with a profiled sheet from the inside. However, with the right interior layout, this type of material can successfully fit into the overall picture. balcony room. Some craftsmen sheathe the inner window sill with a profiled sheet, first insulating it. We come to the conclusion that it is best to sheathe the balcony with drywall from the inside - perfect option for any interior solutions. In addition, this material can be easily mounted with your own hands.

What is drywall and how to sheathe a balcony with this material with your own hands? This is a kind of sandwich, in the middle of which there is a layer of gypsum, and cardboard plays the role of rolls.

Sheathe the balcony with drywall from the inside - ideal for any interior solutions

The main advantages of the material include:

The durable properties of the material allow you to perform various interior designs on the ceiling and walls with any level of complexity.
With the help of drywall, you can even out any curvature of the wall.
While working with this material, workplace always stays dry. Hence the second name "dry plaster".
The method of installing drywall allows you to remove small housing communications under the inner lining.
Excellent soundproofing.
Convenient and fast way mount.
Low price for material.
Possibility of installation of built-in lamps, as well as illuminating devices.

It seems that such material simply cannot have flaws.

Drywall is afraid of moisture

Unfortunately, nothing in this world is perfect, and drywall has the following disadvantages:

The material is afraid of moisture.
It is unable to withstand sudden temperature fluctuations.
Weak resistance to mechanical stress.

Therefore, if you decide to sheathe the balcony with drywall, then immediately exclude the possibility of installing any heavy objects on the wall, since under their influence the structure may not withstand and, as a result, collapse.

Preparing for sheathing

The answer to the question: how to sheathe a balcony is received. Now we find out - how to sheathe a balcony? Everyone knows that on the balcony there is always an increased level of humidity and constant temperature changes. Therefore, instead of conventional drywall, it is necessary to use moisture resistant.

Moisture resistant drywall

Dimensions of produced sheets:

Width from 0.6 to 1.2 m
Length from 2 to 4 m
Thickness from 6 to 12 mm

The choice of appropriate drywall parameters depends on the dimensions of the balconies.

For small areas, smaller sheets are suitable, and for spacious loggias, it is advisable to select larger sheets.

Before sheathing the balcony, it is necessary to install the battens (guide profiles, frame), insulate it and only then mount the drywall sheets. But more on that later, but now let's decide on the materials and tools. To update appearance do-it-yourself balcony, you need to prepare a standard set of tools and a few more specialized devices to simplify do-it-yourself work.

It is necessary to prepare a standard set of tools and a few more specialized devices to simplify the work

So, it is better to prepare in advance:

Float level, tape measure, screwdrivers, stationery knife, hammer, metal scissors, mounting stapler.
Film for hydro and vapor barrier.
Insulation: foam plastic, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, foam plastic - to choose from.
Hacksaws for metal and wood (can be replaced with a grinder with appropriate discs).
Dowel screws, self-tapping screws (it is better to take with a margin).
Ceiling and guide profiles (the number is determined based on the parameters of the room).
Electrical engineering: puncher or drill, screwdriver and jigsaw.
Sheets of drywall (we also proceed from the parameters of the room).
Mounting foam.
Rule for 2 or 2.5 m.
1 bag of putty (we will seal the joints with it).

At the first stage, it is necessary to prepare a site for the installation of drywall sheets. It is called a crate or frame. It is made of ceiling and guide profiles, on which plasterboard sheets will be attached using self-tapping screws.

Using a wooden crate to fix drywall

The sequence of actions in the manufacture of crates with your own hands:

We clean the walls and ceiling from the old putty, and then blow out the visible cracks with mounting foam.
Now we draw a central strip in the middle of the balcony ceiling with a pencil, and draw the rest of the lines perpendicular to it at equal distances.
We cut the guide profile to the desired size and, attaching it to the marked line, fasten it to the wall. To do this, we drill holes at equal intervals and screw self-tapping screws into the profile.
It is better to fix the ceiling profile along the edges and in the middle with anchors.
Perform similar actions around the entire perimeter of the balcony with an interval of 40 cm. If it is necessary to increase the length of the profile, the joints are connected by crabs and fastened with self-tapping screws.
After the ceiling, we proceed to the installation of the wall lathing, but here it is better to mark the lines at an interval of 60 cm. The principle of attaching the profile to the wall is similar to the ceiling.
Be sure to provide a double crate at future joints of drywall sheets.
Now you need to insert the selected insulation into the free cells of the frame. After that, we cover each sheet of insulation with foil for waterproofing and attach them to the elements of the crate using a mounting stapler.

Sheathing the balcony with drywall

The installation of drywall sheets is carried out according to the principle of manufacturing the crate: first, all work is carried out on the ceiling, then we move on to the walls!

Installation of drywall sheets is carried out according to the principle of manufacturing crates

So, the do-it-yourself installation procedure is as follows:

We prepare the working material: we cut out the components from the sheets according to the dimensions measured earlier, if necessary, leave space for highlighting.
Modern drywall has a chamfer (sanded edges at a slight angle), but in the absence of it, we do it ourselves. This will be needed for the subsequent puttying of the junction of two sheets.
The first sheet is attached to the ceiling crate with self-tapping screws. It is advisable to drown the hat inside the drywall. Each subsequent self-tapping screw is screwed in after 20-25 cm.
For the installation of large sheets, you will need the help of a partner, since the material can break under the weight of its weight.
Similarly, we fasten the remaining sheets of drywall.
At the end installation work, seal the joints and seams with putty.
Now you can coat the walls of the balcony with a primer, and then cover with paint or wallpaper.

The sequence of work and the choice of materials for interior decoration do-it-yourself balconies

Ease of installation, safety and durability are the main advantages of drywall. This building material is suitable for interior cladding. Finishing the balcony with drywall is practical, has high aesthetic characteristics, you can do it yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages

Drywall is popular with professional builders and beginners alike. It is easy to use, suitable for decoration different surfaces and has a large number positive properties. The material consists of a solid panel glued on both sides with construction paper.

Distinctive features of drywall:

Light weight. The panels are easy to transport due to their compactness. Also, this property simplifies the installation of parts.
Environmental friendliness. The absence of harmful emissions makes the material safe for human health.
Ease of processing. Drywall is easy to cut, so you can get parts of any size. This is especially important when sheathing rooms with a non-standard area.
Fire resistance. The material is resistant to high temperatures, almost does not burn.
Thermal insulation. This feature allows you to create a comfortable microclimate on the balcony and maintain a comfortable temperature for a person.
Soundproofing. On the balcony, sheathed with drywall, it will be quiet, it will not hear noise from the street and from the apartment.
Affordable price. Drywall costs less than natural wood panels, however, it is of high quality and has a decent appearance.

Despite the high functionality, the material has a number of disadvantages. Drywall is fragile and can be damaged by external mechanical stress, so care must be taken when transporting and storing panels. It easily absorbs moisture, not very well suited for use in places with high humidity. To eliminate this minute, it is recommended to leave the drywall open for several days before repairing.

Kinds

Modern drywall has improved performance. Depending on its properties, there are several types of materials used for finishing different rooms.

Normal. cheap material, which has no additional properties. It usually has a neutral color scheme and is used when sheathing rooms with a stable temperature regime and low humidity.
Fire resistant. The composition of drywall includes flame retardants, making the material less combustible. Such panels fully comply with fire safety requirements and are suitable for finishing almost any room.
Moisture resistant. Most suitable option for the balcony due to precipitation and temperature fluctuations. The sheets are covered with a special coating that absorbs moisture, and antifungal solutions are also applied to them to prevent mold.

The panels differ from each other in dimensions, which is also taken into account when buying building materials. Before proceeding with the repair, calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, the required number of drywall sheets. To do this, you need to know in advance the dimensions of the sheets, which can be clarified on the manufacturers website or directly in the store.

Required Tools

Repair work do not require professional knowledge, and standard equipment is sufficient for their implementation. Its preparation or acquisition is one of the stages of preparation for repair. What tools are needed:

Perforator. Used for direct mounting of panels.
Drill, screwdriver. Needed when installing self-tapping screws, dowels and other fasteners.
Building level, plumb. They are used to align the panels relative to each other and the surfaces located on the balcony.
Putty knife. Required for applying putty on walls.
Roulette and pencil. They are taken during the measurement work.

In addition to the listed equipment, you must purchase the drywall itself and the following materials:

Insulation - to prepare surfaces for installation.
Hydro and vapor barrier. Required for insulation.
profiles. Needed to install the crate.
Dowels, self-tapping screws. Fasteners are required at all stages of work.
Primer, putty. They are used to process joints between foam sheets.
Hacksaw for wood and metal. If necessary, it can be replaced with a grinder. It is required for processing the details of the crate.

If additional processing of materials is required, paint is purchased separately. It is suitable both for a radical change in the color of drywall, and for emphasizing the natural shade of the panels. At the stage of final finishing, impregnations are applied to protect against high humidity, high temperatures.

Preparatory stages

The balcony is finished with drywall only after the room is glazed, otherwise the panels will not hold and may be deformed due to precipitation or excessively high temperatures. Here are some other steps to prepare:

Before sheathing, all objects are removed from the loggia, the walls are freed from traces of the old finish.
Further, it is recommended to install steam and moisture protection. For this purpose, foil or polyethylene film is suitable, acting as a barrier. In addition, special membranes can be used.
Insulation is necessary not only to maintain a comfortable microclimate and constant temperature, but also to extend the life of the panels. Therefore, this procedure is also required before sheathing.

It should be borne in mind that you need to process all surfaces on the balcony: not only walls, but also the floor and ceiling. The insulation must be resistant to rot, moisture and pathogenic microorganisms.

Materials used for warming the loggia:

glass wool;
mineral wool;
expanded polystyrene.

The thickness of the material must be at least 50 mm so that there is no draft on the balcony. When operating in difficult climatic conditions, the insulation is additionally processed to increase resistance to high and low temperatures. It is laid between the elements of the crate, previously covered with foil for waterproofing. For installation, a construction stapler is used.

Sheathing the balcony with drywall requires the installation of a crate on which the panels will be attached. The frame is made of horizontal and vertical profiles, which are both wooden and metal. The latter are characterized by increased strength and ease of installation, therefore they are used more often.

When using wood, the bars are additionally processed.

Stages of installation of the crate:

Creating a drawing and marking the walls in accordance with it. Thanks to this, the profiles will be located evenly, which means they will last longer.
Installation of support profiles. The first bars are installed near the floor, the following elements are aligned along them.
Installation of parts in accordance with the markup. To make them as even as possible, it is recommended to use the building level.
Fastener parts. For these purposes, dowels or self-tapping screws are used, they are installed every 25 cm.
Installation of cross jumpers. They are made from rack profiles and are positioned taking into account the workload of the walls. If it is necessary that the crate can withstand a lot of weight, the jumpers are fixed as often as possible.

Mounting hangers will make the frame more durable and rigid. A heater can be located between the cells of the crate; it is recommended to arrange a double crate at the site of future joints. At the next stage, drywall is directly attached to the crate.

In the next video, we suggest that you visually view all the above steps using the example of a ceiling crate.

How to sheathe with your own hands: a sequence of work

Sheathing starts from the ceiling, after which they move to the walls. First of all, you need to cut drywall panels of the right size, if necessary, leave room for lighting.

Simplicity of puttying of joints between panels is ensured by beveled edges - chamfers. If it is not, the surfaces are prepared independently.

The first plasterboard panels are installed on the ceiling. It is most convenient to use self-tapping screws as fasteners - their hats are recommended to be drowned inside the material. The distance between the elements is 20-25 cm, for convenience, before work, marks are made for future holes. The remaining panels are installed in the same way. If necessary, the last details are cut.

What is considered when sheathing a balcony:

Wiring and screws must not touch.
Metal framing is most effective in humid climates.
wooden bars polished, covered with protective solutions.
Fasteners cannot be twisted very tightly: the material is fragile and can be deformed.
When installing ceiling profiles at the edges and in the middle, it is recommended to use anchors.