Do-it-yourself bath stove. How to make a stove from a cast-iron bath Stoves for giving from a bathroom

29.04.2020

Sooner or later, but still, there comes a time when you have to change the bathtub for a new one, and the old cast-iron vessel, still Soviet-made, as a rule, is sent to a landfill and to a ferrous metal collection point. However, do not rush - it is quite possible to use it a second time, giving " new life". Some owners of private houses make ponds out of baths, others use them as garden benches, dividing the bowl in half lengthwise, processing the edges and adding legs to each of the halves.

But some craftsmen can make a stove from a cast-iron bath with their own hands, sawing it across. Such an original stove can be installed on a garden plot, or its cast-iron parts can be used for the combustion and cooking chamber of a conventional stove. large sizes or for arranging a fireplace.

If you have the skills to work with locksmith tools, without which in this process not to do, it is quite possible to save on some materials for the construction of the furnace.

Most often, an old cast-iron bath is used to make garden BBQ ovens, which, with the right design, become assistants in cooking for the entire warm season. Cast iron has a high heat capacity, so a chamber made from it will help not only prepare everyday meals, but also bake bread products, as well as make preparations for the winter.

Materials and tools for work

For the manufacture of such a furnace, you need to prepare the necessary tools and materials. Since sawing a cast-iron bath, especially Soviet-made, when metal was really not spared, is not so easy, and “disposable” Chinese appliances may not be able to cope with such a task. For this work, you need a reliable German or Russian tool.

Instruments:

Small angle grinder - "Bulgarian".

"Bulgarian" must be reliable - low quality tool may not even be up to the task.

Circles for cutting on metal, 1 mm thick and 125 mm in diameter, they will need 3 ÷ 4 pieces, depending on the thickness of the cast iron.
Grinding wheels - for processing the cut sides of metal, files.
Electric drill with metal drill Ø 9 or 11 m (depending on the selected bolts). It is necessary for drilling holes in the sides of the bath to connect its two parts with bolts.
Trowel and spatula for bricklaying and finishing work.
Construction gun for sealant.
Plumb and building level.
A hammer.

Prices for angle grinders

Materials:

The cast iron bath.
Sheet metal, at least 5 mm thick.
Cooking two-burner cast-iron stove. Instead, an ordinary metal sheet can be laid.
Brick for erecting walls that will close the lower part of the bath, which will be the combustion chamber, from three or even four sides.
Grate grate placed in the furnace.
Clay and sand for masonry mortar.
Ready-to-use heat-resistant adhesive mixture for exterior walls with ceramic tiles.
Heat-resistant sealant (material -).
Bolts with nuts and washers for fastening the structure.
Metal mesh "chain-link" for reinforcing clay mortar laid on upper part bath, which will act as a cooking chamber.
Ceramic tiles (possibly broken) for decoration.
A metal corner that may be required for the manufacture of brackets - for installing a grate that separates the firebox and blower.
Chimney pipe with a diameter of about 110 ÷ 120 mm.

In order to ensure personal safety, work should be carried out in safety glasses, a respirator and construction gloves.

Prices for heat resistant sealant

heat resistant sealant

Cutting a cast iron bath

The most difficult and responsible process in the manufacture of a furnace is, perhaps, sawing a cast-iron bath, and many even believe that it is almost impossible to carry it out.

Perhaps the most crucial stage is a high-quality cut of a massive cast-iron bath

Masters who have already done this work more than once recommend doing it as follows:

If the cut of the bath will be carried out indoors, then you first need to carry out preparatory work, since cast-iron dust, flying in all directions, can ruin objects and things in it. Therefore, the room must be freed from them. If the apartment is being renovated, and the door from the bathroom has been removed, then the opening must be covered with plastic wrap or an unnecessary cloth (moistened is best), because cast iron dust is quite oily, and it will be extremely difficult to wash it from walls and furniture. It is better to take care in advance that she does not get into the living quarters.
Further, the marking of the future section is carried out on the bath, since it must be divided exactly in half.
The bath is covered with enamel, a layer 1.5 ÷ 2.5 mm thick, and first of all it is necessary to cut it along the entire line of the future cut, otherwise chips will form on the edge of the coating.
Then, the cast iron itself is carefully sawn, with small cuts of 100 ÷ 120 mm. Moreover, it is recommended to cut it at a slight angle so that the reverse motion of the disk does not peel off the enamel. It is necessary to ensure that the "grinder" does not overheat - if necessary, the work is interrupted, and the device is given time to cool down.
Having cut half of the bathtub, under each of the future halves it is necessary to put props, for example, from stacks of bricks. Otherwise, at the final stage of work, the halves of the tub along the sawn line may close, pinch or even break the disc (which is extremely dangerous) or damage the instrument.
With a quality tool, such work can be done in about an hour.

If the bath is taken out to the summer cottage in its entirety, then it is best to cut it on the street, turning it upside down in advance. In this position, work will be much easier.

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How to make a garden stove from a cast-iron bath?

When the cut bath is delivered to the installation site, you can proceed to the process of building the stove.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	At the chosen location of the garden plot, a foundation is laid for the installation of the furnace. It is necessary, since the structure will turn out to be quite heavy, and without a reliable foundation it will constantly shrink, which means that the entire structure can be deformed. Then the lower part of the bath is put on a ready, well-dried foundation. If you want the oven to be a little higher, then it is lifted onto supports and also fixed to the concrete mortar. While the concrete solution under the bottom of the bath will gain strength and mature, you can start preparing the rest of the structural elements. It should be noted here that the oven can be made in two versions, and each master chooses the one that is more suitable for himself. In the first version, the facade of the furnace is completely decorated with metal walls, and in the other case, the firebox and blower are closed with a brick wall, into which cast-iron or metal doors are built. After the solution hardens under the bottom of the furnace, it is best to immediately fix the brackets for installing the grate on the walls of the lower half-cylinder. This structural element separates the firebox and the blower, so it must be raised above the bottom of the bath by about 150 mm. On the marked walls of the bath, metal corners are fixed, on which the grate is laid.
	To assemble the furnace structure, a metal sheet is cut out, which will completely cover the lower furnace section. The chimney can be welded into a metal sheet and led through the cooking chamber, i.e. the top of the tub, to the outside. In order to cut a hole for a pipe in cast iron, first small holes are drilled along the marked contour of the circle, which are then carefully combined with a grinder, and then the resulting opening is brought to the desired configuration with a file. Or you can choose another option, less laborious - this is the installation of a chimney through back wall ovens. In this case, the pipe will have to be connected to the bath hole intended for the "drain-overflow" system.
	The next step is that the furnace part of the furnace is smeared along the contour with a fire-resistant sealant and covered with a sheet of metal with a chimney installed in it. Some craftsmen make a cutout of the right size in a metal sheet and install a cast-iron, more heat-intensive, hob on it.
	Next, you need to install the second part of the bath on top of the metal sheet, which has a hole for the pipe. Before its installation, the sheet of metal in the places of future contact with the side of the bathtub is also smeared with sealant. It turns out that the upper part is put on the pipe, and then the chimney is increased to a height of 1000 ÷ 2500 mm, depending on the openness of the space where the structure is installed.
	The next step is to twist the upper and lower parts of the bath, as well as the metal sheet installed between them, using bolts with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm. To do this, through holes are drilled in the sides of the bathtub with a pitch of 150 ÷ 200 mm, through which all the elements assembled into a single structure are fastened.
	In this figure, you can see how the structure should look from the side after it is fastened.
	Here is a view of the cast-iron furnace body from the facade and it clearly shows how the chimney pipe should be installed in the metal sheet and in the "ceiling" of the combustion chamber.
	Then, the combustion and blower chambers are separated by a grate. The grate is laid on metal corners fixed on the walls. But, in principle, it can be laid in a cylindrical chamber without brackets - if selected suitable size, which provided a clearance at the lower point of the order of 150 mm.
	Next, you can move on to masonry work. As mentioned above, the walls can be erected only on three sides of the structure - on the sides and behind, or around the entire perimeter of the cast-iron chambers. First, the masonry line is marked along the foundation, and then the walls are removed.
	If from the front side the firebox and the blower will be closed with a brick wall, then the blower door is mounted in the wall at the level of the bottom of the lower part of the bath, and the furnace door is at a level just above the grate.
	Having folded the walls to the level of the cooking chamber, it is necessary to expand them inward so that the brick fits snugly against the outside of the bath. Otherwise, the stove will not only look sloppy, but the heat created in the furnace will be blown out by a draft very quickly.
	In this embodiment, to close the cooking chamber, which can serve as an excellent oven, a shutter is made of a metal sheet. This structural element should close the oven as tightly as possible, otherwise it will be problematic to bake bread or a pie in it. In order for the damper to tightly close the chamber, a metal corner must be fixed in front of the latter. The distance between it and the front cut of the bath should be 1 ÷ 2 mm more than the thickness of the metal sheet of the door. The damper handle must be protected from overheating, otherwise you cannot do without burns, so most often its gripping part is made of wood.
	The second design option for the front part is to cover the fuel part of the furnace with a metal sheet in which a hole is cut out for installing the furnace door. To decorate the cooking chamber, a figured element of the desired shape is cut out from the same metal sheet, which is fixed from the outside to the walls of the cast-iron container using corners. It should be noted that this method of closing the furnace chambers is more laborious and less efficient than the first one, and besides, it is unlikely that it will be possible to save money by using metal instead of brick.
	After the lower furnace part of the furnace is partially or completely dressed in brickwork, you can proceed to the insulation of the cooking chamber. Since clay mortar has low thermal conductivity and adheres well to surfaces, it is perfect for creating a "fur coat" for the top of the furnace. For this, a thick and plastic clay mixture is prepared with the addition of sifted sand, in approximate proportions of 1:2 or 1:3, depending on the fat content of the clay. Sometimes, in order for the hardened solution to crack less after drying, a little lime is added to it. While the solution is infused, the outer cast-iron surface of the cooking department is covered metal mesh"netting" with cells 15 ÷ 20 mm - it reinforces the insulation layer well, and will also help retain the solution until it hardens on a fairly smooth surface. The grid is fixed to the brickwork located on the sides and back of the combustion chamber. Then, a clay solution is applied on top of the mesh. You can lay it in two layers, the first of which does not have to be smoothed to perfection, and the second is leveled with a trowel moistened with water, a wide spatula or trowel. AT total the thickness of the layer after drying should be approximately 50÷70 mm.
	When the stove is ready and insulated, it needs to be given the most aesthetic appearance, that is, to make it not only a functional device, but also a decorative decoration. landscape design. Some owners of the plots prefer to leave the brickwork in its natural form, and cover the clay "fur coat" with whitewash in several layers.
	Another option would be to finish the entire structure with ceramic tiles. Moreover, for this case, leftovers and even a battle from tile materials of different colors are suitable, and this will help to significantly save on finishing. If the tiles are broken into small pieces, then they will make an excellent original mosaic. Sometimes finishing is also carried out with natural stone, cut into plates with a thickness of 10 ÷ 12 mm. Finishing material should be laid on a special heat-resistant composition.
	The result is an excellent stove in which you can cook every day in the summer, saving electricity or gas. Moreover, food cooked in the oven is always more aromatic and tasty than food cooked on a gas or electric stove.

Thus, by building a stove from an old bath, you can get several benefits at once:

Attach an old thing with maximum benefit.
Decorate landscape design with an exclusive, and most importantly, a very functional accessory.
Save on building materials, and in the future - and on fuel (energy source) when cooking.
Get the opportunity to cook a variety of, not only tasty, but also healthy dishes every day.

You may be interested in information on how to do with step by step instructions

How to use an old cast-iron bath in a different way?

In addition to a barbecue oven for a summer cottage, an old cast-iron bathtub can also be used to make a few more useful things.

Part of the cast-iron bath will make an excellent firebox for the fireplace. The convenience of such use lies in the fact that it is not necessary to remove complex semicircular shapes of the hearth from the brick. To fold a neat fireplace with a firebox with an arched vault, you will have to make a template from boards or plywood, and then do complex manipulations of lining it with bricks. The cut off part of the old bath already has the desired shape, moreover, it can easily withstand the weight of the masonry. It remains only to make a chimney hole in its “ceiling” and overlay a cast-iron firebox brickwork, and then decorate from the outside with a fireplace portal.

From a sawn cast-iron bath, you can also make a combustion chamber for sauna stove. In this case, it is installed in the same way as in the manufacture of a fireplace - with a dome up. Part of the bath is installed on concrete base located in the steam bath, and the edge where the bathroom cut is located is built into the wall and taken out to another room, from where the furnace will be fired. Then, the cut hole is covered with a brick wall, into which a furnace and blower door is installed.

In the steam room, along the entire perimeter of the bath, at a distance of 80 ÷ 100 mm from it, a wall is also being erected, the height of which should be equal to the height of the cast-iron container. Further, all the resulting space around the bath and the brick wall is filled with stones, which will warm up during the heating of the stove and give the necessary heat to the steam room.

Another area of use of old cast-iron bathtubs is the manufacture garden furniture, reliable and durable, which will last for decades. Carefully cutting the bath along, you can get a comfortable "sofa", which is installed in the gazebo or near the barbecue oven. In this case, you get a whole set to decorate the landscape design of the garden plot. Such a "sofa" is not afraid of rain, snow, high and low temperatures. He does not require special care– just wipe it with a damp and then dry cloth. The smooth surfaces of the sofa are easily painted, both inside and out, and by sewing soft pillows, you can relax on it not only while sitting, but also lying down, stretched out to your full height.

In addition to “sofas”, two comfortable “armchairs” can be made from any bath by cutting it across. Having equipped such “armchairs” with beautiful legs, you can get an exclusive and almost eternal thing. The only drawback of cast-iron "furniture" is its heavy weight, since it will be problematic to move it from place to place.

Some craftsmen manage to make a bath set consisting of a designer chair and an original coffee table with a built-in lamp or even a floor lamp.

Most often, old cast-iron baths, taken out to suburban areas, are used as containers for constructing an artificial pond, which will certainly become an excellent decoration of the territory. The bowl is installed in a prepared pit, to which a sewer pipe is connected, and its ground part is designed to the taste of the owners of the cottage.

Another use case is an artificial pond in the garden.

In this case, you will not have to cut the bath, and the laboriousness of the work will consist only in excavation, lowering the tank into the pit and connecting it to the drain.

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Russian summer residents very often surprise with their ingenuity, and, it would seem, old things that have completely served out on their plots receive a “second life”. Perhaps, having studied the options presented, someone will have the desire and inspiration to come up with their own stove model or other things that are useful in country conditions. There will be slaves if such an inventor shares his achievements on the pages of our portal.

Video: a good example of building a garden stove from an old bath

Evgeny AfanasievChief Editor

Publication author 13.01.2016

When it's time to replace the bathroom, don't rush to throw it away. A cast-iron bath stove will be a worthy continuation of the life of an old Soviet plumbing element.

Advantages

The material from which the bath is poured deserves special attention. Cast iron has always differed from steel in its ability to retain heat during water procedures. This property has not changed over the years. Due to its good thermal conductivity, an old cast iron bath is often used in the construction of a stove.

Cast iron is ideal for building a stove

Cast iron products do not have an expiration date. They are not subject to corrosion, have high strength. Well accumulates and gives off heat. Today industrial enterprises they produce furnaces and grates made of cast iron, because they do not burn through. We're just using old material for new purposes. The only downside to cast iron is its brittleness. This is important to keep in mind when doing any work with this heavy material.

Video "Cast-iron bath furnace"

From this video you will learn how to make a stove from a cast-iron bath with your own hands.

What can be used for

Such material is used in the construction of furnaces for various purposes:

For a bath or sauna. In an inverted form, it will perform the function of a firebox (heater).
For the garden, two transversely cut halves are used: the lower one is used as a firebox, the upper one is a place for cooking food.
For a small room, made in the form of folded two halves, it will be a good fireplace.
Barbecue using one half of the tub upside down.

Preparatory stage

To make a furnace from an old bath, you will need the following materials:

the bath itself
Red brick;
cement, sand, clay;
crushed stone;
steel sheet with a thickness of at least 4 mm;
lattice or notch;
finished door with a frame and hinges for the firebox;
steel pipe for the chimney;
formwork boards;
roofing material or polyethylene for waterproofing.

Cast iron bath for the oven you need to cut in half

Required tool to perform work:

shovel, trowel, spatula;
metalwork tool;
electric drill with drills;
grinder with high-quality cutting discs;
measuring and marking tool;
mounting gun for working with sealant;
welding machine.

In preparation for work, it will be necessary to transport old bath to the place of manufacture of the furnace. Given its large weight and the need to cut in half, it would be more correct to cut it before transportation.

Correct cut

The material of the font, which is to be cut in half, is very fragile. Therefore, it is necessary to be very responsible this stage works:

Turn the tub upside down and secure it in a stable position.
Mark the cutting line taking into account the width of the cutting tool.
Slowly, strictly according to the markup, make an incision along the entire line. This will destroy the protective layer of enamel, and when sawing, it will keep the cut end of the cast-iron font from chipping.
Carefully, slowly, maintaining pauses for the tool and cast iron to cool down, we will cut the bathtub in half. When carrying out such work, it is important to remember the safety measures: use goggles and a respirator or gauze bandage.

It is desirable to install such a heavy building on a monolithic foundation.

Technological process

Now that the source material is ready, we define design features erected furnace, installation site, and proceed to construction.

Creation of the foundation and installation of sheets

To build a furnace, the foundation can be made tape by digging a trench around the perimeter of the future structure. But given the large weight of the font and the bricks that will lay the outer part, it would be better to make a monolithic foundation.

Step-by-step instruction:

Let's mark the chosen place. The marking borders should be 10-15 cm larger than the area of \u200b\u200bthe future structure.
We will dig a pit to a depth of 30–40 cm.
Let's perform the device of the sand and gravel base. To do this, evenly cover the bottom with rubble, then sand. Let's wet it all and tamp it down.
We will build a formwork around the perimeter of the pit. The height of the future foundation is no more than 30 cm from the ground.
Using scrap metal, we reinforce the internal cavity of the pit. We connect metal products inside the pit with wire.
We fill the inner cavity of the pit with concrete. Using the rule with the level, we make the top layer horizontal.
Let the foundation dry completely.

Having poured the foundation with concrete, it is necessary to let it dry for several days

While the core is solidifying, we will select the required sheet profile for the partition. Its thickness must be at least 4 mm. The main requirement for a sheet is its straightness. If it has any defects, then it will be impossible to install the top of the furnace evenly.

Attach the sheet to the contour of the upper part of the sawn bathtub and draw it. Cut out the future partition. Mark and cut a hole for the chimney pipe. It is placed opposite the drain hole of the second half of the font.

After the foundation has solidified, we will prepare a place for installation. To do this, lay out several brick stops that will support the side walls of the bath. We will install the font on the foundation. For the bottom of the oven, you must use the half that does not have a drain hole. If the bath is not very stable, then we will put temporary supports around the perimeter. Let's make them out of timber.

Before installing the sheet, it is necessary to degrease the surfaces that will be in contact. After that, you need to apply sealant to the upper plane of the bath. The sealant used must be heat resistant. The use of other adhesives will call into question the tightness of the connection. It is this surface that will be exposed to high temperatures.

flue pipe

We have already cut a hole in the steel sheet for the chimney. Now let's do the same in the bathroom. Given the high strength and brittleness of cast iron, this work is no less responsible than sawing:

Mark the diameter of the future chimney around the drain hole. On a steel sheet, this size corresponded to the diameter of the pipe. In the upper half of the furnace, a hole for the chimney is cut out 1–2 cm larger than the outer diameter of the pipe.
Carefully drill holes along the marked line of the circle, pausing to cool the cutting surfaces. Drilling should be done as tightly as possible.
Slowly, using quality cutting disc small diameter, connect the holes with slots.
We clean the roughness of the cut line with a file.

It is important to cut the hole for the chimney as accurately as possible.

Now weld the pipe to the sheet. The length of the pipe must exceed the design of the complete furnace by at least 1 m. When carrying out welding work, we control the verticality of the future chimney. It is important to remember safety measures: use a serviceable device, protective clothing and special goggles or a welder's shield.

Before installing the second half of the font, degrease the connection planes and apply a heat-resistant sealant. Raise the top half upside down over the chimney and place it in that position on the steel sheet. Align the edges of the lower and upper parts, remove excess sealant with a rag. Let the assembled structure dry.

To create greater rigidity of the structure, we fasten the two halves of the bathtub in adjacent surfaces with bolted joints. Drill holes for bolts carefully, remember the fragility of the material. Treat the gap between the chimney pipe with the hole in the upper half of the furnace with sealant. With a large gap, make a metal sealing ring.

Lattice

Now we install the grate on the bottom of the future furnace. They are made from cast iron or high carbon steel. The surest solution would be to install a cast-iron grate, which will be slightly larger in width than the bottom of the bath. If necessary, adjust the size of the grate so that the grate is installed at a height of 10–15 cm.

The best solution for the bottom of the furnace is a cast iron grate

In the case when the size of the grate is less than desired, it is necessary to weld a couple of corners at the desired height and install the grate on them. Welding work in the lower part of the furnace is best done before assembling the entire structure. Therefore, make sure that the grate size is suitable for the grate before installing the sheet on the lower half of the tub.

masonry

In this form, the furnace can already fulfill its functional purpose. But a large number of heat is transferred through the outer walls and is not used. In addition, the appearance of such a design does not give positive emotions.

Let's start finishing work. Let's start with bricklaying. The brick must be used solid, full-bodied red. Lay out the bottom row with a brick width. Using the terminology of masons - poke. Then, laying bricks around the perimeter, we will make laying in half a brick. Each subsequent row should be shifted in a checkerboard pattern. The mortar used is supplemented with lime to eliminate the possibility of cracks.

If necessary, we will strengthen the rigidity of the furnace structure with internal brickwork and remove temporary supports. When laying the lower front part of the furnace, we fix the prepared door with a frame into the masonry itself.

For greater functionality, the oven must be bricked

Usually there are two such doors: the upper one is for laying firewood, and the lower one is for adjusting the draft. We will finish the masonry at the height of the first half of the bath.

Registration

To keep the heat in the brazier and improve appearance we will finish the upper part of the structure with several layers of sand-clay mixture. This mixture must be prepared in advance. It is best to soak the clay in a tub two weeks before use. Periodically add water and stir. Add sand before use a small amount of lime.

We will wrap the upper part of the stove with a metal mesh, firmly fixing it around the edges. We apply the first thick layer of the mixture, and after drying - the final one. The resulting thickness should be 6–8 cm. Let's whitewash the top of the structure.

To increase the possibilities of cooking in the new unit, we cut out a damper from metal. Its size should correspond to the end part of the brazier. The thickness of the damper is made small - 0.5–1 mm. We will weld a handle to the damper and paint, together with the doors of the lower half of the furnace, black refractory paint in several layers. This will give contrast.

Our oven is ready for use. Let's get cooking fresh air and evaluate the possibilities of its use.

The time when old bath would fit only to collect water for irrigation, passed. The opening of construction hypermarkets across the country has ensured the availability of tools and finishing materials.

It turned out that the bath is not just an object that should forever remain as it is, but an indispensable material for the manufacture of stoves, barbecues, fireplaces and other inventive solutions. Consider the most interesting options.

The idea that end-of-life cast-iron bowls are the best suited for making stoves and braziers quickly spread among craftsmen. The reasons are due to the combined properties of the material:

quick heating of cast iron and long-term retention of heat, unlike steel;
durable enamel coating, sintered during application, at a temperature of 800°C;
high wear resistance of the alloy even at temperature extremes.

It is these properties that are known to be loved by many culinary specialists. cast iron cookware. Meat, pies, vegetables in pots cooked in such a Russian oven will always be evenly simmered, baked and remain hot for a long time. And the use of its somewhat modernized design for a bath will help save several tens of thousands of rubles.

Instruction

Below is step-by-step instruction manufacture:

STEP 1. First you need to cut your cast-iron font in half with a grinder. To do this, mark the bath using a construction marker or pencil. It is desirable that the cut occurs from the non-enamelled side. Also, it is necessary to organize a support under the halves of the bowl, for example, from a brick. This will protect you from biting the disc.

Cutting cast iron is a rather long and laborious task, so the work must be stopped periodically and the tool allowed to cool. Drive the disc slowly and smoothly along the cut line.

If you are just about to dismantle your old font, be sure to pay attention to the special article that describes.

STEP 2. Next, you need to prepare a pedestal for installation, where the brazier will be located. You can weld a metal frame, but the easiest way is to make a substrate, for example, from cinder blocks. Lay half of the tub (the one without the drain) upside down on them.

STEP 3. The next step is to cut a sheet of metal that will cover our furnace part. Its thickness should be 8-10 mm. If the material is thinner, it may burn out over time. Then a chimney is welded to it - a pipe with a diameter of 100-120 mm. Under it, a hole of the appropriate size is pre-cut. You can do this with a grinder.

The edges of the bowl are smeared with a special heat-resistant sealant, a structure assembled from metal and a pipe is superimposed on them and pressed tightly.

STEP 4. Now you need to cut a hole for the chimney in the second half of the bowl. First you need to outline the place for the hole, carefully measuring everything. Next, you can drill a few holes around the perimeter of the circle, and then carefully walk along it with a grinder. The circle should be knocked out with a hammer and a chisel.

It remains to carefully coat the edges of the metal sheet with a heat-resistant sealant and place the second half of the bowl on it.

It is advisable to weld the chimney to the upper half of the bath. To do this, be sure to use special electrodes for cast iron.

STEP 6. Now you need to separate the blower and the brazier with the help of a grate on which firewood will be stacked. You can take it ready-made, or you can weld it from pieces of reinforcement or a square beam. It is important to observe the condition that the distance from the grate to the bottom of the bowl is 150-200 mm.

STEP 7. In the next steps, a front panel is made from a sheet of metal, in which all doors are provided in advance: for the firebox and for the oven itself. The doors are hinged and the entire panel is welded to the structure assembled above.

Then the lower part of the bowl is lined with bricks.

STEP 8. The wind part for better thermal insulation is covered with a layer mineral wool and coated with clay or a special heat-resistant mixture.

STEP 9. It is better to cover all metal elements with heat-resistant paint. The oven is ready.

What else can be done from the old font and how?

Brazier

It is in demand among summer residents and those who like to combine outdoor recreation with eating dishes cooked on fire. Advantages of the barbecue from the bath:

cast iron alloy retains heat from coals for a long time;
ease of manufacture;
can be divided into zones for different dishes or use separate grids.

From two baths it is possible to make a barbecue with a lid, which will be a full-fledged version of the stove.

To receive simple option heat-resistant grate with a base from the bath you need:

Make a pallet on which a cast-iron trough will be installed. It can be brickwork or a stand welded to size from pipe scraps. The meaning of the action is to isolate the bath from the ground to prevent heat loss. If the factory legs are preserved, think about how to give additional stability.
Having welded the corners, place a grate of a suitable size. It should be removable, as in a regular barbecue.

To attach a second bathtub as a lid, use strong door hinges, as well as vertical stops on the sides, to prevent uncontrolled collapse of a heavy trough back and forth. For ease of opening, attach a handle from above.

garden furniture

Advantages of garden furniture from a bathtub:

the ability to withstand weight more than 100 kg;
minimal susceptibility to wear and breakage;
strength and durability;
color scheme and decoration to your taste.

Depending on the direction of cutting the tub, you can get:

a sofa or bench, if you cut off the sidewall along the longitudinal side;
2 armchairs if you cut the bathtub across.

From the middle part left after the chairs, you can build a coffee table.

Before you start making garden furniture from the bath, you need to prepare:

welding machine;
tools for cutting and grinding metal;
primer, brushes and paints for outdoor work;
gloves;
means for protecting the organs of vision and breathing from metal dust.

Process steps:

Remove all unnecessary details from the font - it is easier to prime and paint.
Mark the cutting lines with a marker according to the idea and cut the cast iron.
Seal the drain hole, coat the surface with a primer according to the instructions.
Paint the furniture, legs and decorative elements in the desired colors.
Attach the restored factory legs back or change the height of the seat using your own.
For insulation, use a mattress and pillows.

Water

The idea will be appreciated by lovers of solitude and contemplation. For a pond / fountain, you can pick up a beautiful frame from living plants, populate with aquatic inhabitants and even birds.

The advantage of using a cast-iron bath in home pond construction is the strength and durability of its walls, which will keep the soil at the edges from spilling and collapsing. Besides no need to spend money on additional waterproofing materials.

Sequencing:

Decide on the location, dig a hole.
Remove excess parts from the trough, seal the drain hole hermetically, cover chips and scratches with waterproofing paint.
Seal the bottom of the pit with sand, place the font, fix its location with sand, soil, stones.
Reinforce the inner surface of the bathtub with steel mesh and cement mixture.
Install a pump for the fountain (optional), proceed with the design of the landscape.

It is not necessary to strengthen the inner surface with reinforcement if the reservoir is made for the season. As for the water in a homemade pond, it can be used for watering, or you can periodically add cleansers to prevent algae blooms. In this case, it is unacceptable to feed the plants with it.

Flowerbed

The Internet is full of ideas on how to make a flower bed from a variety of things that have lost their value - beds, carts, shelves and even shoes. It is not difficult to follow the same path with the bathroom - just fill in the ground and plant the plants. The advantage of using an old font in creating a flower bed should take into account its strengths:

the ability to withstand heavy weight;
resistance to corrosion;
strength of the form and walls.

These advantages come in handy when creating a structure with weighting, for example, not just flower beds, but flowerbed-greenhouse, which has a cover. It is practical to plant capricious, heat-loving varieties of flowers, seedlings or strawberries in such a mini-greenhouse.

Design features:

cover can be made removable;
the drain hole does not need to be clogged, to excess water left unhindered.

The main amount of work in this option falls on the creation of an arc dome on wooden frame. Attach it to the bath with door hinges.

Fireplace

Benefits of using not desired bath as a fireplace are the following:

no need to make a special foundation and hood;
minimum dirty construction work;
easy installation;
structural stability and durability.

Basic steps to get a home fireplace:

Protect floors and walls at the installation site in layers with materials for thermal insulation, waterproofing, cement reinforced screed.
Make a base for a cast iron fireplace non-combustible materials with thermal insulation properties - brick or foam concrete blocks.
Cut off 1/3 of the tub from the drain side and work with the remaining 2/3. At a height of 20 cm from the cut line from the bottom, cut out a door for laying firewood. Put on loops, attach a handle.
If the fireplace is installed in the corner of the room, then weld 2 sheets of iron on the reverse side at right angles to each other and to the sides of the trough, leaving room for mounting the chimney.
After installation of ventilation, perform finishing work - plaster, veneer.

Useful video

Alternative oven manufacturing option:

findings

Despite the fact that cast iron bathtubs of the last century are obsolete, a number of their qualities - durability, resistance to rust and stress, heat retention and strength - can be used to obtain items with unique properties. The result of the conversion of an old font into various stoves, a pond, a greenhouse, a flower bed or country furniture will become the pride and envy of neighbors.

Do-it-yourself cast-iron bath stove

Old cast-iron bathtubs are made of durable material that can withstand any load and temperature, so not using it a second time for the benefit of your health is a big mistake. In addition to its strength, cast iron is also an environmentally friendly material, so during heating, you can be sure that no harmful substances are released in the bath.

How to make an oven with your own hands?

Of course, after using the bathroom, it may not be in the best condition, but all its qualities remain at the same level, for example, it still remains strong and durable, so it is quite possible to give it a second life. Naturally, many who have summer cottages use baths such as a water tank, and those who are great at fantasizing can come up with many other interesting things. If you have suburban area there is a bath, then you can make a stove from the bath with your own hands, which in the store will be very expensive. To create a furnace, a material such as cast iron is excellent, because it has such advantages as:

Great durability.

Excellent thermal conductivity.

Withstands even the highest temperatures and high humidity in the room.

It is easy to operate and does not require special care.

You can use an old bathtub for the construction of such types of cast-iron stoves as: outdoor, which will be located in the garden, as a fireplace for country house, and, of course, for the bath. Such options can be fully realized with the help of own hands.

Making a stove, how to properly prepare a bath?

It will not be possible to fully use the container, so it will need to be cut. To properly cut, you need to approach this issue with great responsibility. You will have to work with a grinder, you will also need to prepare several discs for metal in advance. Be sure to take care of safety, so put on special glasses, a respirator and gloves. Correctly perform all actions according to the recommendations given below:

1. Before proceeding with sawing, you will need to make calculations and apply markings for the future cut.

2. First of all, a layer of enamel is cut, this is done in order to prevent chips along the edges.

3. The cast iron itself is cut into small pieces, while it is worth taking breaks.

4. When half of the bath is sawn, it is necessary to substitute supports under both parts, which will not allow further damage to the tool, and indeed the material itself.

Experts say that cutting is best done at an angle, then the enamel will not exfoliate much.

Rules for making a sauna stove from an old bath

The process of manufacturing a sauna stove is very complicated, because you have to take care not only of quality, but also of safety. The fact is that the stove will be located in the bath building, so there are parameters for installation, for example, it is worth considering thermal power and its change, the ability to produce steam, as well as the ability to regulate convection currents. As soon as the bath is sawn, you can begin to build a stove in the bath. You will need one half of your cut, but sometimes you can use two parts of the tub.

To properly build such a furnace, you must be guided by the following expert advice:

To make a stove on your own, you first need to prepare a foundation, it is made of concrete mortar, sometimes a filler is used, broken brick is perfect for this, which can withstand even a large load.

One part of the bath is laid on the foundation, while it is important to make sure that it looks with the curved part up. The cut should be built into the wall with access to another room, where the bath firebox will take place directly. For security reasons and in order to implement the design idea, the hole is closed with brickwork, then a furnace and blower door is installed.

When half of the bath is properly installed, then at a distance of 10 centimeters, walls of refractory bricks are also erected, which will be equal to the height of the cast iron tank. The space that forms around must be filled with stones, it is they who will warm the room to the desired temperature.

Alternatively, you can build an ordinary sauna stove, which will consist of two tiers, while all the heat will go to the upper tier. The principle of operation of such a furnace is based on the passage of gas through the bath, due to which the stones are heated, and then the heat already flows down and returns up again, after which it exits the pipe.

One cannot but agree that the decision to create a bath stove in this way at your dacha from a bath is creative, but it is also considered rational in terms of extra costs. For construction, it is absolutely not necessary to use any material, except for an old cast-iron bath, you can also make a stove yourself without involving specialists from the outside, of course, this option should be considered if you have at least some experience in building baths. It is important to note that another advantage is the durability of this equipment, because cast iron is a durable material that can withstand high temperatures and moisture, which means that you can enjoy a hot bath long time. In addition to saving money, you also get a durable stove in addition, which is difficult to find in the construction markets, because most of the materials today are not up to quality.

In the article we will analyze how to make a stove from a cast-iron bath. What materials and tools are required for construction. Advantages of such an oven

If you have at your disposal an unnecessary cast-iron bath, do not rush to throw it away or rent it for metal. From this bath you can easily make a wonderful barbecue oven in your summer cottage.

An oven from such a seemingly useless bath will be a wonderful decoration and a wonderful stove for cooking various dishes. Cast iron is a metal with high thermal conductivity, which is excellent at storing heat. In such an oven, it is good to cook both ordinary food and an oven. bakery products and various amazing dishes.

Do-it-yourself cast-iron bath stove

Furnace Advantages

The mere thought of making such an oven can help solve some of the accumulated problems and reveal the following advantages:

year-round opportunity to cook your favorite food
a beautiful stove will be a good decoration for a summer house
cost savings in construction
saving gas, electricity
getting rid of an unnecessary bath

How to make a stove out of a cast iron bath

The bath must be divided in half. The halves are connected to each other with a concave part outward. Between the separated halves lies a sheet of metal with a thickness of 10 mm, which separates the firebox from the place where the food will be prepared. In the upper cut-off part of the bath and a sheet of metal, through holes are made for the pipe, which in turn will serve as a chimney, the pipe is welded. Then fix the oven and give it an aesthetic appearance.

Tool and material for manufacturing

For manufacturing you will need:

waste cast iron bath
a metal sheet
grinder with a disk for metal
heat resistant sealant
pipe, drill, bolts
welding

Preparatory work

First you need to make blanks:

the bath is marked in the middle, turned it upside down and divided in half
a blank is cut out of a metal sheet in the size of the resulting half of the bath
on a sheet of metal and the top of the bath, mark and cut through holes for the pipe
the pipe is welded and brought out through the upper part
make markings for fastening the halves of the bath and the sheet between them

Cast iron bath foundation

Since the oven will turn out to be heavy, we need to do under her. With a foundation, the oven will not shrink and deform. It can be made brick or, for a too large structure, bulk. Supports are embedded in it at the desired height so that the furnace is on the same level.

Assembling a furnace from a cast-iron bath

The edges of the furnace part are smeared with a heat-resistant sealant, then an iron sheet with a welded chimney is placed on it.

Parts of the bathtub with an iron sheet in the middle are compressed by bolts.

The whole structure is fixed on supports. Then it is covered with bricks. A grate is inserted into the furnace part.

If the stove involves a closed firebox, then doors are immediately mounted during the manufacture of the stove.

Furnace insulation

The upper part of the furnace is pulled together with a metal mesh and covered with clay and sand. Then laid out decorative rock or heat resistant tiles. If it's easier, then you can just whiten it.

Problems in the construction of the furnace

Problems in the construction of a barbecue oven can occur during the preparation phase during the work associated with cutting the tub. It must be divided very slowly, without haste. First you need to cut the enamel layer in order to avoid chipping. Then they begin to cut the metal at an angle, making small cuts. Bulgarian should not overheat. So that the halves of the bath do not pinch the disk, the cut must be spread with a suitable board or reinforcement.

Do-it-yourself cast-iron bath oven video

The video clearly shows the furnace from the cast-iron bath. The structure of the structure and what materials are required to fasten all parts of the furnace are announced.