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How to fix the tire eaves to the ceiling. How to fix the ceiling cornice. Fixing the cornice with glue

Do-it-yourself soft roofing can be done without much difficulty. To do this, use materials that are designed for laying on a solid base.

Arrangement of a soft roof using flexible tiles

Application shingles can only be produced when the roof flat type the smallest slope with respect to the horizontal, it must be 12 degrees or more. If this parameter is lower, then moisture will stagnate at the joints, which will cause damage to the coating.

External conditions

Do-it-yourself soft roofing using bituminous tiles can be mounted at 5 degrees or higher. This is due to the characteristics of the sheet, which has several elements. It can be attached to the surface with nails or with a self-adhesive layer. The latter is located on the inside. The absolute impermeability of the material becomes possible under the influence of solar heat. Under its influence, the sheets are mated with each other and the surface. At sub-zero temperatures, this effect cannot be achieved, so the insulation will not be of high quality.

When a do-it-yourself soft roof is being installed, a photo of which can be seen in the article, a positive temperature is also necessary because the fragility of the sheets in frost will not allow overlapping material to be mounted, and this is a must, especially on a ridge.

Foundation preparation

If a soft roof is being equipped with your own hands, then as a basis for shingles you can use a cutting board. It could be moisture resistant plywood, OSB or other construction material which has a flat surface. Permissible moisture content of the base can be equal to 20 percent. At the joints, the boards must be fixed to the supports and overlap at least two runs between them.

As for the seams of the lower skin, they must necessarily have gaps, the width of which is 2 millimeters. If the crate is made of edged board, then the grooves should be slightly larger, their parameters vary within 5 millimeters. When installing the edged board, it is necessary to ensure that the annual rings are located upwards with rounded parts.

Ventilation Features

If a soft roof is laid with your own hands, with step by step photo can be found in the article. The presence of ventilation guarantees air circulation, which is necessary to prevent the formation of condensate, which may occur on the bottom of the base. If this stage of the process is neglected, then this will cause the truss system to rot, while in winter time frost and icicles will form on it.

When carrying out work, it is important to take into account that the roof ventilation system consists of several elements, among which ventilation outlets and an air gap can be distinguished. The latter is located between the waterproofing and the base. Its thickness should be equal to 5 millimeters. In addition to the above components, the ventilation system has elements that are located in the weights of the cornices.

Before laying a soft roof with your own hands, you need to work on the ventilation system. If you want it to work correctly, and the attic to ventilate naturally, then the holes must be placed under the overhang of the eaves evenly along the entire ridge.

Lining layer

Laying a soft roof with your own hands involves the presence of a lining layer. It should be located on the eaves, valleys and ends of the roof from top to bottom. Provided that the slope of the roof exceeds 18 degrees, it is permissible to limit the lining only where leakage is most likely. Skates and valleys need to be strengthened by 250 and 500 millimeters, respectively. At the same time, the latter should be equipped with a lining layer on both sides, along the eaves, as well as end overhangs, it should be laid 400 millimeters wide or more.

If the roof has a slope ranging from 12 to 18 degrees, then the lining should be laid over the entire area, it must be directed from the bottom to the top. In the longitudinal direction, the width of the overlap should be 150 millimeters, as for the transverse direction, this figure should be equal to 100 millimeters or more. The lining is fixed to the base with the help of galvanized roofing nails, the distance between them must be made equal to 200 millimeters. In order to achieve better sealing of overlaps, it is necessary to process these areas bituminous mastic.

Work on cornice and gable planks

If a soft roof is to be equipped, do-it-yourself installation technology will help you with this (it is presented in the article). At the stage of installation of the cornice strips, it is necessary to install the elements on the lining on the overhangs of the cornice. These components are made of metal, they are necessary in order to reliably protect the edges of the crate. Fixation is carried out with mounting nails. It is important to ensure the correct distance between them, it should be equal to 100 millimeters.

Where the cornice strips will mate with each other, it is necessary to overlap by 20 millimeters or more. Gable rails are also made of steel, they must be installed on the lining material at the ends of the roof. They are designed to protect the edge of the crate. The installation technology is similar to that used when installing cornice strips.

If the soft roof of the garage is laid with your own hands, then you should not forget about the valley carpet, it acts as a protection for the entire system from the effects of precipitation. You need to choose it according to the shade of the tiles, fixing is done with roofing nails. The overlaps must be well glued.

Tiling

When laying a soft roof with your own hands, it should be remembered that before working on the lower surface of the tile, it is necessary to get rid of the protective film. The master should be aware that the cornice tiles should be located 2 centimeters from the edge of the eaves throughout the entire overhang. The main part of the material should start from the middle. As for standard conditions, the canvas must be fixed with four nails, but in the event that the roof slope is extremely steep or permanent strong winds, you need to use about 6 nails.

The first row is set in such a way that the edge is 1 cm away from the upper edge of the cornice material and no more. Petals should be used to decorate the joints. When the next row is mounted, it is necessary to ensure that the level of the cutouts of the previous row and the ends of the so-called petals must match.

If you are thinking about how to make a soft roof with your own hands, then in the process of carrying out the work, the material will need to be cut along the edge and glued to a width that is 10 cm or more. Before proceeding with laying, the slopes must be marked with chalk, drawing horizontal lines. This is necessary to ensure that the sheets are accurately installed in a row. If the ramp has a broken geometry or it has additional elements in the form of dormer windows, then chalk markings will help to align the rows.

Installation of ridge tiles

If you are installing a soft roof with your own hands, the instructions for the work will help you. You can get acquainted with it by reading this article. In order to get a ridge tile, it is necessary to work on the eaves, it is cut into three parts in the perforation area. It is necessary to mount it on the ridge, in parallel, turning the elements towards it with the short side. These parts must be fixed with four nails, two of which must be located on one side.

Euroruberoid laying technology

Before laying a soft roof with your own hands, you must select the material. It can be euroroofing material, which is a rolled deposited material. It also applies to soft roofing. These canvases differ from shingles in that they can be installed on a flat roof.

Foundation preparation

The surface of the roof must be not only solid, but also dry and completely free of dust and dirt. Among other things, the base must meet all fire safety requirements. Any monolithic coating can be used for work. This also includes concrete slabs, which can only act as a base if they are equipped with a slope for water drainage. In addition, such a surface must have a cement-sand screed. It is possible to fuse roofing material on a pressed OSB board.

If the work is supposed to be done on an old roof that has an existing tar cake, then it will make a good base. The surface must be treated with bitumen-polymer mastic. It can be used in the form of a concentrate or in the finished state. Mastic is not required when laying the described material on the old coating. Before carrying out work, it is necessary to carefully study the instructions for using the mastic; the amount of time required for final drying should be indicated on the package. Before this period, it is not recommended to fuse roofing material. This is due to the fact that these manipulations will negatively affect the quality of the roof.

Laying work must begin from the point where the drain line is located, that is, from below. Due to the fact that the runoff line is parallel to the slope line, water will not enter the junctions of the strips.

Installation of euroroofing material

If you are going to equip a soft roof, do-it-yourself installation technology will help you with this. If you decide to use euroruberoid, then you should remember that this material cannot be overheated. If this still happens, then you will have to purchase a new one, since overheating causes damage, while the roofing material loses its ability to stick. The finished surface should not have places that are devoid of protective dressing. It is not necessary to work on a surface that has voids and black spots, a high-quality coating should be uniform.

The number of soft roof fans is growing like a snowball. And this is not surprising - just remember the visual appeal and operational advantages of one of the most modern coatings. But there could be even more supporters of flexible roofing materials, if they knew that installation could be done without involving a team of roofers. Today we will try to fill this gap and share not only construction technology, but also the secrets of experienced craftsmen.

The structure of the soft roof

Before talking about the roof structure with soft roofing, I would like to briefly mention the features of this unique material. In fact, it is a modified roofing material. That's just the basis of flexible tiles (hereinafter we will call them shingles) is not a banal cardboard, but a stronger and more durable fiberglass or polyester fabric. Improvements have also been made to impregnation. The waterproofing of soft tiles is provided by a modified polymer-bitumen composition, thanks to which the critical temperature points have been shifted to higher values.

The multi-layer structure allows you to make a soft roof durable and completely waterproof.

Basalt or slate chips are applied on top of the flexible tiles - it not only determines the design of the coating, but also makes it more resistant to mechanical stress, ultraviolet radiation and others. external factors. From below, the tiles are covered with an adhesive layer, which is covered with a protective film. In some cases, a fine mineral dressing is applied to the lower surface - then the adhesive part is a wide strip in the upper part of the shingles.

Roofing pie construction

The multi-layer structure makes flexible tiles not only strong, but also durable - some manufacturers give a guarantee for their products for up to 25 years. Usually soft roofing materials overcome this barrier with ease. Of course, we are talking about those cases where the base of the soft roof corresponds accepted norms, and the laying of the material is carried out strictly according to the prescribed technology.

Studying the device of roofs with bituminous tiles, we immediately divide them into two types:

  • cold,
  • warm.

The first are built for cold attics. Many websites and print publications sin by pointing out the inexpediency of arranging simplified roofing pies for residential buildings. Like, if the house is intended for year-round use, then its roof must be warm. This statement is fundamentally wrong - most of the private houses of the old housing stock were cold. Moreover, the cold roof has its advantages. And the biggest one is durability. In winter, frost is practically not formed on such a roof, which, as you know, is one of the worst enemies of shingles. In addition, the simplest roofing cake is well ventilated, which means that the wooden frame will always be dry. As for energy efficiency, for thermal insulation it will only be necessary to insulate the attic floor. As you understand, its area in any case will be less than that of the roof.


 When using a cold roof on a residential building, it is necessary to insulate the attic floor, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich is noticeably smaller than that of the roof structure

So the structure roofing cake for cold roofs includes:

  • step (sparse) crate of wooden beam or steel profile pipes;
  • solid flooring (from plywood, OSB or skid boards);
  • insulating lining;
  • bitumen coating.

Roofers working as part of professional teams often recommend installing a superdiffusion membrane under the lining carpet, arguing that this is a higher security. wooden base from moisture. A rather controversial statement, which I personally can only call wastefulness. A conventional waterproof lining leaves little to no chance for the wood frame to get wet due to snow or rain. Such actions on the part of specialists can only be explained by the desire to earn a certain amount for an operation that requires minimal labor. As for the warm roof, in this case, the installation of moisture-resistant coatings is mandatory due to the use of thermal insulation.


 A warm roofing cake allows you to use any attic space for year-round use

For attic insulation, fibrous materials are most often used, which, when wet, can lose most of their unique abilities - that's what they need to be protected. From below - from moist air, and from above - from leaks. In this case, the roofing cake should have the following structure:

  • rails for mounting cladding panels;
  • vapor barrier waterproof film;
  • thermal insulation layer;
  • waterproofing windproof vapor barrier membrane;
  • counter beam;
  • sparse crate;
  • solid flooring;
  • lining base;
  • flexible bituminous coating.

You may object that the slats installed from the attic side have nothing to do with the roofing pie, and you will be absolutely right. However, we nevertheless indicated them due to the fact that in our case they also act as fasteners for the lower layer of vapor barrier.

Video: correct installation of a roofing pie is easy

Tiled roofing technology

Roofing made of soft bituminous tiles is similar to tiled only visually. Not only the installation technology differs, but also the operational characteristics, service life, maintenance and repair procedures. And although the work on the construction of a shingle roof cannot be called too complicated, you will have to carefully follow the manufacturer's recommendations. It is best to divide the construction process into several stages:

  1. Procurement of materials and preparation of tools.
  2. Preparatory work.
  3. Laying of insulating materials.
  4. Arrangement of counter-lattices and battens.
  5. Solid foundation construction.
  6. Laying the top layers of the roof.
  7. Installation of additional elements and arrangement of passages.

By organizing working time in this way, you will not only minimize the number possible errors, but also be able to make the most informed decisions about attracting outside help.

How to calculate how much and what materials will be needed

The first thing to do when starting mathematical calculations is to write detailed drawing roofs or create at least an elementary sketch indicating the exact dimensions and features of each slope. The calculation itself includes the determination of the geometric dimensions and the number of main parts of the structure:

  • additional elements;
  • valley carpet;
  • lining layer;
  • ventilated skate or roof aerators;
  • timber for step battens and counter battens;
  • boardwalk;
  • soft cover.

I must say that the accuracy of the calculations carried out affects not only the cost of the roof, but also the timing of the work. For this reason, we will understand the features of the calculation of all components of the roof in as much detail as possible.

Additional molding

To finish and protect various parts of a soft roof, several types of extensions are used:


The presented additional moldings are produced in the form of strips of a standard length of 2 m. However, in order to determine the number of certain strips, the length of the area in need of protection should be divided by 1.9 or 1.85. This is due to the fact that aprons and planks are not mounted end-to-end, but with an overlap of 10–15 cm wide.

If the roof structure includes grooves and junctions with vertical surfaces, then their waterproofing is provided by a special valley carpet. Manufacturers produce it in the form of 1 × 10 m rolls, presenting a choice of several color solutions to match the tiling.


 When choosing a valley carpet by color, it is not at all necessary to get exactly the color - a slight desynchronization of tones will play a plus, making an ordinary roof extremely stylish and expressive

When calculating the total length of the carpet, you should make a margin of 20 cm for each valley - you will need it for correct installation the bottom of the joints.

The lining layer is arranged both over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200beach slope, and partially - it all depends on the steepness of the surface. If the roof slope is more than 1:3 (18 degrees), then only areas prone to leakage are protected with a roofing carpet:

  • internal corners junctions of adjacent slopes;
  • ridge part;
  • ribs;
  • areas with fractures of slopes;
  • edges at pediments and cornices;
  • ventilation outlets.

When laying the insulating carpet, it is necessary to make an overlap of 10-15 cm. For this reason, its calculated quadrature should be 1.1 - 1.15 times the total area of ​​​​the slopes. If the lining is partially equipped, then the length of the strips of the roofing carpet corresponds to the length of the parts of the roof prone to leakage.


 The lining carpet can be laid both along and across the slope

The width of the lining with partial waterproofing should be 40–50 cm. An exception can only be made for skates and outside corners, reducing this value to 25 cm.

Skate air elements

When calculating the number of ridge aerators, it is assumed that one element 1.2 m long is able to provide ventilation for about 25 m 2 of the under-roof space. If point air elements are used, then the total area of ​​\u200b\u200badjacent slopes should be divided by 5 - that is how many square meters of the roofing pie "serves" one such element.


 The design of the ridge aerator allows you to organize ventilation of the roofing pie on roofs of any configuration

Note that point air elements vary in height. Steep roof slopes are equipped with short ones, and gentle surfaces are long.

Lumber for battens

For the arrangement of the crate, a wooden beam with a section of at least 40x40 mm is used, as well as a board 25 mm thick. The length of the counter beam is the easiest to determine - it is equal to the length of the rafter legs. As for the sparse lathing, the total length of the wooden elements is determined based on the standard step width for shingles - 37 cm for rafters located at a distance of 0.9 m from each other. Therefore, the length of the rafter leg in centimeters should be divided by 37 and multiplied by the width of the roof - this will be the desired length of the beam, which will be needed for the crate of one slope.

solid base

Sheets of plywood or OSB used for arranging a solid base should be mounted apart, that is, with overlapping seams. For this reason, when determining the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe material, an amendment must be made:


When determining the amount of plywood or OSB in sheets, it is recommended to make a sketch of their location on paper with the most dense laying - this way you can avoid wasting material during installation.

Covering and roll materials

In the process of laying, two types of tile shingles are used - ridge-cornice and ordinary. The first are produced in the form of packages designed for 12 p.m. m of skate and 20 linear meters. m eaves. When calculating the latter, the same correction factors are used as for a solid base (simple roofs 3–5%, combined roofs up to 10%). To determine the number of shingle sheets, the total quadrature of ordinary shingles is divided by the area of ​​one bituminous strip. One pack of soft tiles is usually designed for 3.5 m 2 of roofing - knowing this number, it will not be difficult to calculate how many packs you will need to buy.


 Before installation, tile shingles from different packs must be mixed - this will eliminate the appearance of non-uniform color sections of the roof

The amount of materials that will be needed for a warm roofing cake is calculated with the following tolerances:

  • waterproofing and vapor barrier - at least 4%;
  • roll thermal insulation- by the slope area;
  • plate insulation - up to 4%.

It is easy to see that the amount of roll and slab insulation practically does not depend on the complexity of the roof. This is due to the fact that such materials are easily joined together and do not affect the appearance of the structure.

What tools and supplies will be needed

In addition to roofing and wood materials, the following equipment and tools will be required during the work:

  • saw;
  • a hammer;
  • scissors for cutting metal dobor;
  • metal spatula for mastic;
  • roofer's knife (different from the usual hook-shaped cutting part).

In addition, you should purchase ordinary nails, which will be needed for the construction of a wooden base, and special ones for fixing a soft roof. The latter are distinguished by a wider cap (diameter 8–10 mm) and a length of 25–30 mm. Fasteners that are used in automatic pistols are also suitable - such hardware has a length of 40 mm. The number of nails is calculated based on the consumption of 4 pcs. per shingle or 500 grams per 10 m 2 of roofing.


 For a one-time use, it is not necessary to buy a special tool - you can get by with replaceable hook-shaped blades for a regular construction knife

In the process of installing flexible tiles, you will need a bituminous mastic designed for waterproofing building structures. Its volume can be determined by the roof area - for every 10 m 2 of coverage, up to 1 liter of liquid mixture will be required.

The price of bitumen mastic is affected by both the type of material (cold or hot applied) and composition. The cheapest is bitumen-polymer waterproofing, while the most expensive is recognized as bituminous polymer-aluminum coating. The latter is highly resistant to heat aging and UV radiation. In our conditions, bitumen-rubber mastic will be enough - it has an average cost and has good installation and operational characteristics.

Preparatory work

Preparatory stage includes several steps:

  • dismantling of the old roof (if necessary);
  • installation of a crate frame;
  • installation of heat-insulating and accompanying layers;
  • solid foundation construction.

The arrangement of a warm roofing pie is carried out in the following sequence:


Table: determination of the thickness of a solid base for a soft roof

Before, we have already talked about the need to lay slab material apart. In addition, thermal gaps of about 5 mm should be left, otherwise summer heat sections of the roof will be arched. On each side of the ridge, gaps of 70–80 mm are left to create effective ventilation for the roofing pie.

It should be noted that for a cold roof it is enough to build a sheathing and boardwalk - the need for other elements is eliminated due to the maximum simplification of the design.

Video: how to build a solid base for shingles

Step-by-step instruction

The manufacturer provides for the laying of bituminous tiles at an outdoor temperature of up to -15 ° C. Since the installation in cold period requires additional heating equipment and the cost of heating materials, it is best to start work in the warm season, choosing days when the temperature rises above 20 ° C. In this case, the bituminous component will be warmed up due to solar heat, which will make it possible to obtain a strong connection of all layers of the roof.


 Laying soft roofing may well be carried out in winter period- the main thing is that the temperature does not fall below -15 degrees

In order to properly allocate time and effort, we suggest using step by step instructions on laying a soft roof on their own.

Forming the underlayment

As a substrate, rolled materials from fiberglass impregnated with a bitumen-polymer mixture are used. You should not refuse a soft base - a lining is needed in order to additionally level the surface, waterproofing, insulation and sound absorption.
Strips of rolled waterproofing can be laid parallel or perpendicular to the horizon line - the main thing is to ensure an overlap of 10 cm along the long side of the insulation and 15 cm at the joints.

From my experience I can say that on steep roof slopes it is best to lay the lining in a vertical direction. And not at all because in this case the likelihood of leaks during heavy rains is reduced. The fact is that under the influence of gravity, the waterproofing panels sag, and folds form on the surface. In order to properly level them and properly fix them, it is required additional time and strength - one cannot do without assistants here. As for gentle slopes, here, of course, the horizontal method of fixation wins, as it is simpler and more reliable. It is only important to start work from the overhang and move towards the ridge. At the same time, each subsequent strip of waterproofing will cover the edge of the previous one and the water will not have a single chance to get under the upper layers of the roofing pie.


 Partial underlayment is only possible on roofs with steep slopes

When deciding to partially lay the underlay on steep slopes, the most important areas should be protected. So, on both sides of the valley and at the edge of the slope (cornice line), the width of the bituminous waterproofing should be at least 50 cm, while for skates a strip of this size is divided in half.
To fix the lining layer, use a nail fight or fastening with building brackets in increments of 25 cm. In areas prone to leakage (valleys, junctions, etc.), the litter should be glued with a bituminous compound.

The list of materials that are suitable for use as a bituminous base is indicated by the manufacturer in the installation instructions for shingles. It is irrational to replace them with improvised coatings such as roofing material or polyethylene film due to the short service life, rapid thermal aging and other factors.

Installation of valley carpets and additional strips

When choosing a bitumen-polymer carpet for arranging valleys, they are guided by the color of the main coating. For decorative purposes, you can choose a material that differs in tone - this will emphasize the line of each groove and make the roof more expressive. Experts recommend covering the valley with a solid panel 1 m wide, be sure to glue it with mastic to the plank base. If it is required to join two pieces, then the junction is located as close as possible to the peak of the roof. The overlap of the top sheet to the bottom must be at least 20 cm with mandatory fixation with liquid bituminous waterproofing.


 The material of the valley carpet is laid over the entire surface of the groove and glued to the base with mastic

To protect the edge of the lathing from dripping condensate and sedimentary moisture, a cornice and gable extension should be installed over the insulating carpet. To fix the planks, roofing nails are used, which are hammered in a zigzag pattern at intervals of 10-15 cm (at the joints - up to 5 cm). It is necessary to withstand the overlap of adjacent additional elements of 3–5 cm, placing the edges of the planks along the contour of the eaves or end ledge. It is advisable to fasten the droppers first - in this case, at the corners of the slopes, they will be covered by gable strips.


 The joints of the cornice and gable planks are overlapped with reinforced fixation with roofing nails

Before installing the cornice and end protection, it is recommended to frame the perimeter of the solid flooring with a rail with a section of 20x40 mm. If an edge is made along the edges of the slope, then the waterproofing is installed on top of it and cut off behind the perimeter line. After that, additional elements are attached.

Cornice tile installation

The horizontal lines of a marking put on a lining simplify installation and allow to lay a tile in equal rows. It is best to form them with the help of linen twine rubbed with chalk. The cord is pulled in the right place and released like a bowstring to leave a mark on the dark surface of the substrate.


 For even laying of cornice tiles, it is necessary to apply chalk markings on the lining layer

Starting shingles are laid at a distance of 1 cm from the eaves line and fastened with roofing nails. So that the tiles do not come off under strong wind load, the fasteners are hammered at a distance of 25 mm from the edge. Each subsequent strip is laid end-to-end, and the junctions are protected with bituminous mastic.

Installation of ordinary tiles

The main coating is mounted in the direction from the center of the slope, placing the first ordinary shingle with an indent of 2–3 cm from the edge of the cornice strip. To fix soft tiles, it is enough to remove the protective film from the adhesive layer and firmly press the shingle to the substrate.


 When laying the lower tiles of ordinary tiles, make a small indent from the edge of the cornice sheets

The final fastening is carried out with nails at four points - along the edges of the strip, as well as over the depressions between the inner petals. The top sheets are offset by 1 petal. Thanks to this, the very “tiled” texture appears, and in addition, the joints and fixation points of the soft roof are closed.


 The scheme for laying a soft roof provided by the manufacturer makes it easy to understand the nuances of the technology

The tiles protruding beyond the edges of the slopes are cut off, after which the cut is treated with bituminous mastic.

Video: soft roof installation technology from the material manufacturer

Arrangement of the ridge and sealing of penetrations and junctions

Ventilation of the under-roof space is provided by air elements installed on top of the ridge. To wooden frame they are fixed with screws or nails. After that, the ridge part is closed with flexible tiles. There are no special strips of soft bituminous coating for external corners - they can be made by cutting out the cornice tiles. The petals cut along the perforation are placed across the ridge and fixed with a nail from each edge. The next element is placed with a 5-centimeter overlap, and for additional sealing, the contact point is treated with bituminous mastic.


 The ridge air element must be covered with a layer of bituminous tiles, otherwise atmospheric precipitation will quickly render it unusable

Places where pipes, cables and other communication elements pass through the roof slope must be closed with special passage units. They are attached directly to the base even before the installation of the lining carpet.


 The junctions with walls and chimneys require special attention, otherwise the moisture flowing down the vertical surface will penetrate inside the roofing pie

During the installation process, the upper layers of the roof are let in over the penetration, impregnated with mastic and cut in place. In the same place where the slope is in contact with the brick chimney or a wall, roofing materials are poured onto the surface of a vertical structure. For additional protection, a segment of the valley carpet and a figured metal apron (adjacency bar) are used.

Video: arrangement of a soft roof passage unit

bituminous roofing cost

Doing all the work yourself, you can save a lot of money, because the total cost of the roof will consist only of the cost of necessary materials. Depending on the manufacturer, the price per square meter of a soft roof of a budget and medium level varies between 800–1,500 rubles. If we talk about the premium segment, then certain types of shingles are sold at prices up to 4,000 rubles. Of course, in this case, no self-laying there can be no question - anyone who can fork out for such an expensive material will find money for a professional team. The services of the latter, by the way, are not cheap - from 600 rubles per square meter finished cover.

As you can see, it’s not difficult to build a soft roof with your own hands, which, however, does not preclude proper accuracy and following the technology developed by the manufacturer. If you do everything with high quality, then the roof will please with its appearance and trouble-free operation for many years. Otherwise, it is better not to take up the work at all, otherwise the roof will constantly remind you of its existence with leaks and other unpleasant moments.

To completely focus on the curtains and create a smooth transition from the ceiling, a popular element in the interior is used - a ceiling cornice. Its shape, material, equipment and mounting methods may differ from each other. Today we will talk about installing a plastic profile ceiling cornice on different surfaces.

Profile ceiling cornice - basic equipment and assembly types

Ceiling cornice is made of different materials, but especially popular in modern interior uses a plastic profile. It is a hollow tire with one or more lines for attaching hooks. Top part ceiling cornice is flat. Depending on the configuration, the mounting holes are already provided in the profile or you will have to drill them yourself. Additionally, the kit includes:

  • stoppers, plugs to limit the movement of curtains, tulle;
  • swivel angles 45° and 90°;
  • blends, slats and other decorative elements for facing the front part of the profile.

The length of the ceiling cornice varies from 1.2 to 6 m. If necessary, it can always be filed with a grinder or a hacksaw. This cornice for curtains is presented in three basic colors: white, beige, brown. The massiveness of the curtains determines the number of rows for fastening - from 1 to 4. To hang two transparent curtains and one heavy curtain, purchase a three-row ceiling cornice that can withstand significant loads. Single-row designs are considered decorative, suitable for hanging curtains and tulle. For heavy massive curtains, it is better to purchase four-row curtain rods, the most durable of the options presented. And if you need a standard functional option, install a two-row profile.

Advantages of plastic options over other materials

To fix the cornice to the ceiling, structures made of plastic, aluminum and wood are used. Let us analyze in detail the advantages of plastic profile cornices and compare them with other options.

Plastic is not susceptible to low and high temperatures, withstands high humidity. This means that you can hang the ceiling cornice both in living rooms and bedrooms with relatively stable temperature conditions, and in the loggia, on the balcony and other rooms with humid air.

Plastic structures do not burn, but melt, do not emit harmful substances. Safe for installation in children's rooms. The material does not absorb odors. In order to clean the surface of dirt, it is enough to wipe the eaves with a damp cloth. Plastic can be easily cut with a hand saw, mounted in a horizontal, vertical plane, easily takes curved shapes and bends of the ceiling. And of course, one of the main advantages of plastic ceiling cornices is the lightness of the material, unlike metal and wooden structures, which, in addition to high weight, have increased requirements for fastening. In addition, the price of wooden cornices starts from 3500 rubles. This is 5-6 times higher than the cost of plastic profiles.

Step-by-step fastening of the eaves to the concrete ceiling

To hang the ceiling cornice, we need the following tools and fixtures for installation: an electric drill, a screwdriver (screwdriver), a hacksaw, dowel screws, a marking pencil.

The first step is to assemble the cornice according to the instructions. Then we measure the length of the profile and the width of the ceiling, if necessary, we adjust the cornice to size using a hacksaw for metal and a sharp clerical knife. In a separate package of the kit you will find hooks and plastic plugs. First, we thread the hooks into the grooves on the side of the structure. We close the side edges of the eaves with plugs that prevent the hooks from slipping off.

The second step is marking the mounts. We put the cornice to the place where it will be fixed, through the holes we make marks with a pencil. Sometimes there are no factory holes in the eaves. We make them ourselves with a step of 30-40 cm and a diameter corresponding to the size of the plastic plugs. To make the markup even, we recommend that you involve an assistant who will support the edge of the profile. As alternative fix double-sided tape on the flat side of the eaves in several places, attach it to the ceiling. Now you can not worry that the profile will move out, and calmly make marks and holes for dowel screws.

The third step is punching holes. After marking, you can fix the ceiling profile. We punch holes with a drill and insert plastic dowels, finally fix the eaves with screws, close the holes with plastic plugs. At the end we frame the plastic profile decorative elements if provided. Ceiling cornice installation completed. This mounting algorithm is also suitable for mounting to a wooden surface.

Often, craftsmen use another mounting option - on liquid nails. This material is able to withstand loads up to 80 kg.

Therefore, if you do not have self-tapping screws, but there are liquid nails, we install the ceiling cornice to concrete surface in the following sequence. We clean the base from whitewash, traces of paint, primer and level. We wait until the surface is completely dry, degrease it. Using a ruler and a pencil, we make marks for attaching a plastic profile to the ceiling. We apply liquid nails in a zigzag line on the flat part of the eaves and press it tightly against the marked surface. After about 20 minutes, the material is completely set to the base.

Features of mounting to a stretch ceiling and plasterboard surface

If you need to attach a ceiling cornice to a stretch ceiling, consider the installation nuances. Choose the mounting option - visible or hidden. In order to properly hang the visible ceiling cornice, before stretching the ceiling, we make a mortgage from a wooden beam, fixing it on metal hangers. Mortgage timber should be tightly adjacent to the stretch ceiling. After stretching, the ceiling cornice is fastened with self-tapping screws. Holes for fastenings in the canvas are not drilled, but burned and strengthened with polymer rings.

To hide the ceiling cornice and visually raise the ceiling will help fix the profile in a niche. To create it, a baguette is fixed around the entire perimeter of the room. At a distance of 10-20 cm from the window we fix a wooden beam. The gap between the wall and the baguette will be a niche. We fix the platforms in it on metal suspensions using self-tapping screws. After stretching, we fix the ceiling cornice into a niche on the laid platforms.

Another fragile material that also has the intricacies of installing a ceiling cornice is drywall. Since such a surface is not capable of withstanding high loads, the installation of the profile takes place using butterfly or umbrella dowel screws. They evenly distribute the load, drywall does not sag under the weight of the canopy. Alternatively, use anchor bolts 5 cm deep into the concrete base. This will be enough to create a stable base. You can also make a mortgage from a wooden beam, as is the case with a stretch ceiling.

Installation depends on several factors:

  • on what surface of the building will be fastened;
  • the place is determined and prepared during the construction of the walls or ceiling;
  • surface material;
  • surface condition at the attachment point;
  • thickness;
  • possibility of choosing a fastening unit.

In modern buildings, the surfaces for fastening products are multifaceted, from ordinary vertical walls and horizontal surfaces to complex geometric spatial openings in studios.

During the construction of a house, cottage, office, studio, the project may provide for places for curtains and the specifics of their fastening.

The material of the walls determines the design of the mount. Materials that are not strong enough require reinforcement of the eaves fastening structure. As an example, stones from natural shell rock, a popular building material in southern Russia, do not have the strength of aerated concrete and the fasteners are different.

Places for curtains must be identical to evenly distribute the load, otherwise distortions may occur over time.

The thickness of the mounting surface determines the support for the mounting unit, a thin surface will not be able to support the product if the unit is not designed for the resulting load.

Fasteners can be various kinds, the choice is determined by multiple factors from economic to aesthetic.

For the device to the place intended for fastening, it is necessary to choose a product with a suitable length and design. They are always sold equipped with a mount, you need to make sure its functional reliability. Otherwise, the issue of finalizing the fastener assembly should be worked out.

Attaching a string product with clamps or eyelets requires the installation of tips at both ends that can withstand a significant force of string tension.

Brackets are traditionally used for mounting to the ceiling, but mounting through holes in the console is possible. At the same time, the use of brackets is technologically similar to installing a cornice to the wall.

There are some features of fasteners on plasterboard ceilings. In such cases, special fasteners, glue or special mortgages are used.

How to attach to the wall

Mounting to the wall is preferable for its simplicity, ease of implementation and subsequent changes and improvements, if such actions are carried out.

  • The cornice must be at least 10 cm below the ceiling and protrude 15 cm beyond the side dimensions of the window.
  • Length exceeding 2 meters requires the installation of an extra bracket.
  • Gypsum boards on the wall require the use of long fixing bolts, with a long thrust zone.
  • It is important that the products do not interfere with the opening of the window.

Required tools:

  • stairs;
  • roulette;
  • level;
  • perforator or drill;
  • screwdriver or screwdriver, hammer;
  • self-tapping screws or dowels;
  • drill.

Sequencing:

  1. Carry out the marking of the drilling of the installation location of the brackets. To do this, using a tape measure and a level, we put points on the wall for drilling in accordance with the design of the bracket and the requirements for the location of the cornice.
  2. Insert a drill with a dowel diameter into a hammer drill or drill, drill holes in the wall of the required depth.
  3. At the drilling site, pay attention to the density of the wall material. If the wall crumbles from minor loads, then the installation must be carried out to the maximum depth by selecting the appropriate dowel and self-tapping screw. Insert the dowels into the holes obtained with a hammer.
  4. Fasten the brackets with a screwdriver, and hang the console by fixing it with a screwdriver and screws.

How to fix the cornice to the ceiling

The fastening process begins with marking the places for drilling holes for mounting dowels. It is important to control the coincidence of the axes of symmetry of the window and fixtures, protrusions beyond the dimensions of the window, the possibility of opening the window after installation.

The product must be fastened with reliability, allowing the use of curtains of the maximum weight of the material, this determines the number of points of attachment of the product to the ceiling. Consideration must be given to the density of the material and the length of the dowels and therefore the depth of the holes to be drilled. It is difficult to calculate, empirically it will be faster.

The tools required for fastening are similar to those used when mounting to a wall, only a stepladder may be needed instead of a ladder.

Installation sequence:

  1. Mark the place of installation with a tape measure.
  2. Choose a drill whose diameter corresponds to the fastening screw.
  3. Drill holes for fastening in the product, wide cornices are drilled in two rows.
  4. Having attached to the surface, mark the place of drilling of the central fastening.
  5. Drill a hole with a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the dowel, and drive in the dowel.
  6. Attach the console and attach with a self-tapping screw and a screwdriver to the attachment point.
  7. Using the holes, mark the places for drilling the ceiling and drill them.
  8. Drive in dowels, and fix the product either with fastening nails or self-tapping screws.
  9. If the fixture is with brackets, then you must first assemble the product, and then proceed as described in the previous paragraphs.

How to mount on a plasterboard ceiling

If the ceilings in the room are made of plasterboard and the installation site during construction was not reinforced with strong plasterboard linings, then only light cornices with light curtains can be used. This is a prerequisite due to the fragility of drywall.

Otherwise, the processes are identical to those described in paragraph 4, with the exception of the choice of cornice fasteners. It is necessary to use special bolts for drywall.

Reinforcement of attachment points for plasterboard and stretch ceilings.

For stretch ceilings, improper installation can damage the surface. For plasterboard ceilings, heavy cornices are not applicable. Therefore, for the device of such devices, it is necessary to carry out surface refinement at the stage of installing drywall or preparing a canopy stretch ceiling.

All modifications are reduced to the manufacture of a mounting gasket that eliminates the gap between drywall and ceiling panel or stretch film and solid panel. The dimensions of this product must be so accurate as not to spoil the appearance of the surface by bulges or concavities at the installation sites.

After installing such a product, the process is carried out as described in the paragraph above.

Conclusion

Fastening the product is not difficult work, which, with maximum accuracy and diligence, is available to any person and the result will be a joy not only for the performer.

When carrying out repairs, it is necessary to take into account every little thing, although it should be said more precisely that there are no little things here at all. And even such an insignificant issue as fixing the ceiling cornice needs to be given attention. And most importantly, everything needs to be considered even before the repair, and it will be clearly defined with the question of how to fix the ceiling cornice, since already at the final stages of the repair work, it may turn out that it is no longer possible to fix it.

Without fail, each window must have its own decorative frame, it is this that will give the room a certain personality, and also increase the level of comfort. And it should be noted that regardless of the choice, blinds or any other element, in any case, you will need a cornice to fix it. And that is why, even at the stage of design development, it is necessary to think about the type of frame, the method of fastening and other factors.

The most common solution when choosing a cornice, the ceiling option attracts more consumers. This is due to the fact that it largely provides freedom of choice of window design elements.

Next, we will look at how to properly fix the ceiling cornice, as well as how to choose it. In addition, some non-standard solutions will be offered, for example, how to attach the ceiling cornice to the wall, since in reality there is sometimes no other choice.

How to choose the right ceiling cornice

So, for starters, consider all the features of the choice of ceiling cornices. To do this, you need to figure out what kind of construction data there are in general, as well as what parameters you should pay attention to.

Classification of cornices

Let's start by looking at the types of this type of systems. They are classified according to the type of construction, as well as the material of manufacture and the method of fastening.

Considering the design of cornices, you can clearly divide them into:

  • Baguette;
  • Round stick;
  • Profile;
  • Special;
  • Strings.

The next classification is the material used, and depending on it, the designs can be:

  • metal;
  • plastic;
  • Wooden;
  • Or combined.

Note that it is necessary to choose a cornice not only based on its appearance, but also consider a number of parameters, such as the type of attachment for example. And given the fact that usually the fastening itself is carried out directly to the structural elements, i.e. in the walls or ceiling, in particular directly to the floor slab, then it is necessary to choose the design even before carrying out exterior finish premises.

What parameters should be considered when choosing

So, before you start choosing a cornice, you need to familiarize yourself with some factors that must be taken into account. Initially, measurements should be taken, and the type of curtains will be determined, which will already partially answer the question of how to fix the cornice to the ceiling. In addition, in order to correctly carry out the necessary measurements, pay attention to the following factors:

  • When opening a window, the cornice should not interfere with it, i.e. should be located slightly above the opening, the optimal distance is five centimeters.
  • The indentation of the cornice from the wall should be such that the contact of the curtains with the walls, the window sill, the radiators and the window itself, as well as its handles, is completely excluded.
  • The length of the cornice should be slightly longer than the window opening itself, in order to be able to fully push the curtains. In this case, a ledge is usually provided on both sides of the opening at a distance of 30-40 centimeters. Depending on the width of the window, these figures can be reduced or increased.

Also, before taking measurements directly, it is necessary to choose the type of curtains and their quantitative composition. It is from these factors that the design of the cornice, as well as the requirements for the level of its strength, will depend.

  • In the case of the operation of thick curtains, which, accordingly, have no small mass, it is better to opt for metal structures, or profiled ones made of high-strength plastic. The fastening of such a system is carried out using mounting holes in the tire.
  • The number of levels of such a barrier should also be taken into account, i.e. the number of curtains used. For example, if tulle and blackout curtain, then, accordingly, it is necessary to choose a two-level cornice.

The choice of cornice according to the method of fastening

  • Mounting the cornice on the brackets;
  • With mounting holes;
  • Also hanging mount.

In any of the cases, the arrangement of holes in the supporting structure becomes an obligatory factor, and the difference lies only in the quantitative composition of the fasteners, as well as their location.

How to fix the ceiling cornice

  • concrete base;
  • As well as plaster.

How to attach a ceiling cornice to a concrete ceiling

The best option for fastening will be the use of a plastic or metal profile cornice.

Let's take a look at the consolidation process:

  • The first thing to do is to measure the desired length of the cornice, and cut it out. A metal hacksaw works well for this. Next, the assembly is carried out, during which all the necessary parts and plugs are attached and put on.
  • The next step will be the direct preparation of the eaves for installation. First you need to drill a hole in its central part. For this, either a double drill is used, or several elements of a wide diameter. Initially, a hole is made, which in its diameter corresponds to the diameter of the screw head. When finished, drill holes on the other side with a slightly smaller bit.
  • Further, with the selection of a certain fastening pitch, you will have to wait a bit to fully calculate it, you must clearly determine the choice of curtains and their characteristics.
  • Next, you should attach the cornice to the surface so that it takes the position it needs, and then make marks in the places where the fastening will be carried out.
  • Initially, the cornice is fixed on the central hole. To do this, a hole is made at the place of the marked mark.
  • The next step is to insert the prepared dowel into the finished hole. After that, the arrangement of holes for the remaining fasteners is carried out.
  • It remains to fully fix the cornice. This will help the installation of all dowels, which leads to a tight fixing of the frame as a whole. Also, instead of dowel-nails, it is possible to use ordinary self-tapping screws, they will be less expensive, but perhaps good.

According to the same scheme, fastening to wooden ceilings is also carried out.

In addition, fixing ceiling cornices in this way is practically the same as fixing with hangers and brackets. Usually, holes for fastening are provided in such elements in advance, you just have to place the fastening point, and then provide for fastening to the ceiling

Fastening to a stretch and plasterboard ceiling.

If you do not plan on arranging rather heavy curtains, then fastening can also be carried out to plasterboard ceiling, or even tension. To do this, you need to choose the right plastic cornice and fix it with self-tapping screws.

More difficult is the case of fastening to a stretch ceiling, and if heavy curtains are provided, problems may arise with plasterboard. But do not think that the eaves should be abandoned, this is far from the case. But still, if such a design is chosen, then it is necessary to think over in advance the place of its attachment, and arrange supports for it, even before mounting the ceiling.

As such a support, a laying is well suited. wooden beams. Such an “insert” is fixed to the surface of the floor slab in the place where the cornice is planned to be arranged, and the ceiling is already being built on top of it. Also, when choosing, you should take into account the necessary dimensions, which leads to the preliminary purchase of a cornice. Among the factors that should be taken into account are:

  • The thickness of the beam should be slightly less than the distance from the ceiling surface to the drywall or film.
  • In addition, the width and length of the beam must be greater than the estimated dimensions of the eaves.

Now in more detail about fixing the ceiling cornice when installing the stretch ceiling structure.

First you need to install embedded structures. This is carried out even before calling a specialist and taking measurements to equip the ceiling. This is done to mark on the plan the place where the cornice is provided, since in this area additional strengthening of the structure is required, which is done by gluing.

Further, already during the installation of the ceiling, holes are made at the insertion site in the web, and rings are also inserted. This step helps prevent tearing of the film. It is through these holes that the fastening will be carried out.

There is also a slightly different way of attaching the ceiling cornice when arranging a stretch ceiling. It implies the arrangement of a niche, i.e. between the ceiling and the wall, the necessary distance is left to fix the cornice.

Further, in the place of the gap, the cornice is attached to the base ceiling. The technology was mentioned above, so you should not repeat it. With this option, the cornice itself will not be visible, while the curtains will seem to flow directly from the ceiling.

wall mount

Quite often there are cases when the cornice has already been bought, but they thought about fixing it only after finishing work was completed. In this case, you have to resort to an extreme option, and consider how to fix the ceiling cornice to the wall. There are not so many variations in the performance of work, but more precisely, only two:

  • In the first case, brackets can be used, thus it is possible to imitate fixing to the ceiling.
  • And the second becomes fastening to the wall under the ceiling wooden block. On which, in fact, the installation of the cornice will be carried out. It should be noted that it is necessary to take into account such factors as: the size of the beam, to ensure indentation, as well as additional decoration.

Another option, which is used in some cases, is to call workers who, for an additional fee, will dismantle the necessary part of the ceiling, and then install it back.

Thus, we figured out the question of how to fix the ceiling cornice, the video presented below will help you more clearly get acquainted with the mounting technologies.