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Plasterboard ceiling device: design features, installation of a frame from a profile, fixing sheets. Do-it-yourself plasterboard suspended ceiling Plasterboard structures on the ceiling

Gypsum board- this is the best modern material for finishing walls and ceilings, erecting partitions, creating arches, niches in absolutely any room, both in the bathroom and in your living room. It's hard to imagine modern design without drywall, because in two or three days you can independently sheathe a spacious room, easily coping with bumps, ledges and cracks in the walls. In this article, we will tell you about the design of the plasterboard ceiling.

Suspended ceiling on a metal frame

Suspended ceiling plasterboard - this is one of the most affordable variations to improve the sound insulation of ceilings and walls, emphasize the design of the living room or make the ceiling perfectly even.

A single or multi-level plasterboard suspended ceiling can be mounted on a metal frame. This option is one of the most common and popular all over the world. Metal profiles allow you to assemble any composition or figure, and the simplicity and unpretentiousness of mounting suspended ceilings gives even beginners a chance to do it. Such a ceiling will give unique design any room. No special instructions are required for this.

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Materials used to assemble suspended ceiling structures

For the construction of a suspended ceiling in the living room, you can purchase ready-made ceiling modules or special plasterboard ceiling sheets with a thickness of 8 mm, as well as a guide profile with a section of 27 × 28 mm and a rack profile with a section of 60 × 27 mm.

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Tools needed for mounting a metal frame and fixing drywall:

  • screws or nails;
  • dowels;
  • metal mounting brackets;
  • construction knife for cutting;
  • a hammer;
  • putty knife;
  • electric drill;
  • a set of screwdrivers with a straight and cross-shaped notch;
  • metal scissors;
  • screwdriver;
  • laser level;
  • tape measure and pencil.

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Ceiling marking instructions

Work on the arrangement of a false ceiling should begin with determining the exact dimensions of the ceiling to calculate the required material.
You need to choose the design of the ceilings, decide how far the new ceiling will fall from the base floor of the living room. Having determined the distance from the base floor and finding the lowest angle, you need to mark the risk on the wall, all other marks will be made from it.

With the help of a laser level at a height, the risks draw an even horizontal line on the walls of the room along its entire perimeter - these are the boundaries of the ceiling, or the depth to which it will fall below the base floor. Usually the value is 10-20 cm, but not less than 3-4 cm. Closer to the base ceiling, you should not make a mark, there will be a problem with the installation of suspensions. This gap will make it easier to make new wiring. This is the first mark equal to the future height of the ceiling. We mark the horizontal line on the wall with a pencil.

A guide profile will then be attached along this line, so its marking should be treated with due attention, the evenness of future suspended ceilings depends on it. When using the normal level, it should be borne in mind that it gives a small error. An indicator of the correctness of the markup will be the perfect match of the horizontal line at the start and end points.
Next, you need to mark the ceiling under the main guides, first mark the center of the room - this will be the axis, in all directions from which you will then need to draw parallel lines at a distance of half a sheet of drywall.

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Calculation and planning of work

Before proceeding with the installation of ceiling profiles, it is advisable to draw up a design for the future structure on paper in the form of a sketch with all the necessary dimensions. When drawing up a design project, applying dimensions and cutting, it is necessary to constantly take into account the thickness of the sheet.

The simplest is the design and installation of a single-level ceiling, when all profiles should be mounted on the same level. The calculation is easy to perform, it does not require special skills. The design of the ceiling can be either single-level or multi-level. Having understood the installation technology of a simple single-level false ceiling, it will not be difficult to learn the information on how to assemble a multi-level ceiling.

The metal frame for attaching drywall to the ceiling is usually made of a metal profile with a section of 60 × 27 and 27 × 28 mm.

Installation of the frame should begin with fixing the wall plinth-corner. It has the form of a rail 3 m long; for this purpose, a metal profile with a cross section of 28 × 27 mm can be used. It must be fixed along the perimeter of the room strictly horizontally along a predetermined line. The recommended pitch for fixing the skirting board is 400 mm. For the installation of a vertical step, the vertical racks of the frame should be placed at the required distance from the wall and fastened 30-40 cm apart.

The next stage of installation is the installation of direct suspensions, a profile with a section of 60 × 27 mm will be fixed on them, on which a soundproof tape must first be glued. The profile can be fixed with ceiling dowels in increments of 2 pieces per linear meter. The number of direct hangers can be calculated using the simplest formula: divide the ceiling area by the plate area and divide the resulting amount by 2. When installing a false ceiling, on average, 2-4 hangers are required for each rail . Hangers must be fixed at the intersection points with intermediate guides according to the project, using metal anchors with a head diameter of at least 13 mm. It is desirable to maintain a distance of 1000 mm between anchor dowels.

After that, you should proceed to the suspension of the main guides. The 3.6 m rail is the end of the main rail, it must be cut so that the 1.2 m rail, which is the intermediate rail, can enter the groove of the main rail at a distance equal to the length corresponding edge plate. At the same time, with its cut edge, the main guide should rest on the wall corner plinth. In places of their connection it is recommended to install an additional suspension. The main and intermediate guides must be connected using self-tapping screws (3.5 × 25).

Then you need to hang the main guides so that the junction of the main and intermediate guides is carried out at a right angle. Completing this part of the work, you need to fix the intermediate guides. Observing an interval equal to the width of the plate, we insert them between the main carrier rails. Intermediate guides at the points of docking with the wall plinth must be cut to size so that one of their ends, which should clearly lie, can be inserted into the wall plinth-corner, and the other end into the groove of the main guide. If the design of the ceilings in the structure has radius curves, they should be mounted using a special profile with horizontal notches.

These notches are designed specifically to make it possible to bend the profile to the desired radius. In order to eliminate errors in the radii of curvature and make all corners the same, you should compare each subsequent bent profile with the first and adjust it exactly according to the first.

It is difficult to name a building material comparable in popularity to drywall. It is used for leveling and mounting walls and ceilings of any complexity, for creating partitions, arches, niches, door and window openings. Do-it-yourself plasterboard constructions make it possible to realize any design ideas.

The material is available to everyone, as it is cheap and easy to process without the use of special tools.

Calculation of plasterboard structures

The main material in the construction of wall building structures indoors is plasterboard of standard dimensions - 12.5 x 1200 x 2500 mm. Sheets 9.5 mm thick are attached to the ceiling.

Installation of drywall structures is based on the creation of a metal frame, which requires profiles and suspensions.

Self-tapping screws, dowels, anchors, heat and sound insulation, putty and primer are also needed. The number of GCRs is easier to determine. To do this, you need to find the areas of the base surfaces with a margin of 10%. The exact calculation of drywall structures is based on measuring the dimensions of the room, drawing a sketch, determining the amount of plasterboard and profile. Since any wall or ceiling in a room is a rectangle, their area is determined by multiplying the two sides, subtracting the size of the openings from it. The footage of profiles is determined with rounding up. The segments are easily spliced ​​with self-tapping screws.

Calculators for calculating all components for facing the ceiling or walls will help determine the amount of material.

Drywall wall structures

Without experience, you need to start making plasterboard structures with your own hands from the usual alignment of the walls or the installation of a simple partition. Experience comes quickly, as many operations are repeated in different technologies. After simple designs you can proceed to more complex options.

GKL sheets are mounted on frames made of galvanized corrugated profiles made by rolling from thin steel tapes. Consider how simple drywall constructions are made with your own hands. Before leveling, the walls must first be fenced with guide profiles attached to the floor and ceiling. They should be located in the same vertical plane, which is achieved using a plumb line and markings with a chopping cord. Then, vertically adjusted rack-mounted carrier profiles are inserted into them. They are fastened with self-tapping screws at a distance of 60 cm from each other, and for the strength of the frame they are additionally fixed with hangers nailed to the wall in increments of 30-50 cm.

After the frame of any design is made, it is necessary to lay communications inside (wiring, communication, ventilation, heating, water supply).

How to make a niche?

First, the frame is made according to the above technology. After that, an opening is cut out in it and a frame is mounted according to the size of the niche. Then install guide profiles on the floor, ceiling and wall. Between the uprights inside the niche there should be a step of 60 cm. They mark the opening and attach horizontal jumpers to them. When the frame is ready, it is very easy to sheathe it inside with drywall.

Arch designs

The arch should be made a little higher than a regular door, as it visually reduces the opening. For a sample, you can take a plastic threshold by choosing a suitable bending radius. It is installed in the opening and bent to the desired curvature, after which it is marked out and a cutout is made in the GKL. A ceiling profile is attached to the slopes with dowels, and two elements of drywall with an arch shape are attached to it. Inside, a frame is mounted on which it will hold. On the curved edges of the arch, a flexible profile is fastened with self-tapping screws. Its end is covered with a strip of drywall, which should be pre-wetted and rolled. front side needle roller. Then it will bend easily. The arch is framed with a perforated corner, glued with a sickle and putty is produced.

Do-it-yourself ceiling plasterboard constructions

Multi-level ceiling structures require careful preliminary study with sketching. Preparation includes the following steps:


The plasterboard ceiling is known as a decorative and technically convenient element of the living space. Technical convenience plasterboard ceiling in closing engineering communications, hiding the insulation system and the possibility of quickly leveling the main ceiling. A variety of plasterboard ceiling designs allow you to significantly change the design of the room by making illuminated ceilings, two-level ceilings, and curly ceiling structures.

Of course, it is worth noting that the plasterboard ceiling requires finishing. Unlike other ceiling structures, it needs to be plastered and painted, which can be inconvenient due to timing or other reasons. It is much easier to choose a ceiling from PVC ceiling panels. PVC panels do not require finishing. They are completely ready for installation, have a variety of colors and designs. In addition, PVC panels are not afraid of moisture and can be installed on the balcony, in the bathroom and other wet rooms of the house and apartment. On this site you can learn everything about PVC panels.

However, despite all this, the plasterboard ceiling and the PVC panel ceiling have different tasks and no one forbade them to be combined. One to hide communications, the second to make a quick finish.

Choosing the type of plasterboard ceiling

When making a hard ceiling with your own hands, you would need a guide profile around the perimeter of the room (PNP 20/27). Its length can be calculated by the length of the perimeter of the room plus 10% of the margin. In this floating ceiling design, this profile is not needed.

The main structure of the floating ceiling frame is a kind of grid of ceiling profiles (PP 60/27). Some of these profiles will be attached to suspensions (they are called the main ones). The second part of the profiles will be attached to these profiles (they are called carriers). The name is bearing, due to the fact that drywall sheets will be attached to these profiles.

In drywall technologies, intersecting ceiling profiles can be connected at one level (butt) or at two levels, overlapping one another.

  • The first connection is called a single-level connection of ceiling profiles and it is made with special crab-type fasteners.
  • The second connection is called a two-level connection and it is made a two-level profile connector.

In the design of the floating ceiling, only two-level connection of profiles is used!

I repeat and this is important. In the construction of the plasterboard ceiling frame, two types of profiles are clearly separated. Some profiles are called main, the second are called carrier (load). The main profiles are attached to the draft ceiling, and the load profiles bear the load from the weight of the drywall attached to them.

Important! In a two-level frame, the main profiles are located at the top of the structure, and load-bearing profiles are attached to them.

Mounting material plasterboard ceiling

For any type of plasterboard ceiling, you will need fixing material:

  • Screw type: TB
  • Screws type: LB (bugs)

Be sure to purchase soundproof tape type Dichtungsband. It is glued to the outer sides of the shelves of the rigid false ceiling profiles, for sound insulation and deformation compensation.

Purchase of drywall

For the ceiling, the following type of drywall sheet is purchased:

  • For dry rooms: GKL.
  • For wet rooms: GKVL.

Tool preparation

For work, prepare the following tool:

  • Laser level;
  • Perforator;
  • A hammer;
  • Knife to cut the hyposcraton;
  • Screwdriver Set;
  • Metal shears or cutting machine;
  • Painting tool.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling - marking

  • When making a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, it is important to make the markup correctly. You need to start work by cleaning the old ceiling and the top of the walls from the old building material. If necessary, the walls are strengthened with building mixtures.
  • We begin work with marking the ceiling. Marking is best done using a laser level.
  • We apply the lower level of the ceiling along the perimeter of the room.

On the ceiling we apply the attachment points of the suspensions, taking into account the distances from the extreme profiles to the walls (at least 100 mm) and the distances between the main profiles (at least 600 mm).

For accurate marking, we put on the marking lines the location (attachment) of the suspensions. For marking, we use a building marking cord and, with the help of an assistant, we fill the markings on the ceiling.

Installation of hangers

  • According to the markings made, we install the suspension rods using dowels with screws or other fasteners.
  • On the installed rods, at the general level, we fasten the clamps with hangers for the profiles.

Mounting the ceiling frame

Do-it-yourself installation of the ceiling frame begins with the installation of the main profiles. They are fixed with a suspension in the following way.

  • We attach load profiles to the main profiles. We connect them to the main profiles with a two-level suspension.
  • We observe technological distances between profiles.

Important! When making a plasterboard ceiling with our own hands, we constantly measure the horizontal profile levels. If necessary, adjust the level with clamps on the rods. In the photo, such an adjustment is shown by arrows.

Upon completion of the installation of the frame, we once again check the horizontalness of the entire structure in different directions.

Sheathing the frame with drywall

Plasterboard sheets are attached to load profiles with TN self-tapping screws with a pitch of 150 mm. To support the sheets, you will need an assistant or fixture. A device for supporting sheets can be made by hand, for example, a T-shaped support from wooden slats.

Drywall has been a fairly popular material in construction and repair for many years. Walls, niches, arches, ceilings and, of course, ceilings are erected from it. Drywall sheets in the hands of a master can easily turn into a reliable, durable and at the same time stylish, beautiful and original ceiling structure. In addition, there are a lot of options for the execution of a single-level or multi-level ceiling, it all depends on individual preferences and competent installation.

Plasterboard finishing allows you to design ceiling surfaces in almost any style. The shape of the lines, the presence of separate blocks, curly elements - all these elements are determined by the design sketch. However, there is a fundamental base part, which consists of three types of ceiling structures, namely:

Plasterboard ceiling in one level

A ceiling surface of this type can simultaneously be both already finished construction, and serve as the basis for the construction of a more complex ceiling. The principle of construction is quite simple. Initially, a metal frame is attached, then, if necessary, electrical installation work is carried out, then the cladding of the GKL frame, and the final stage will be the finishing (painting, plastering, wallpapering, etc.)

Single-level ceilings have a number of advantages, among which are:

  • the ceiling surface, lined with plasterboard in one level, does not lose its original appearance even with the general movement of the foundation;
  • when making the ceiling in one level, the space between the draft and front surfaces is significantly saved;
  • high degree of surface leveling, good way hide all the irregularities and defects of the original ceiling;
  • excellent indicators of heat and sound insulation;
  • ease of installation and subsequent maintenance.

Two- or three-level ceilings

They are built on the basis of a single-level ceiling surface. The basic principle is that the lower the level of the plasterboard sheets, the smaller their total area, while the installation of each next level takes place on the basis of the previous one. All levels should be combined with each other not only from a technical perspective, but also from an aesthetic point of view, without causing visual discomfort.

The main types of multi-level ceilings are: frame, diagonal and zonal.

Complex ceiling structures

Outwardly, they are quite similar to multi-level structures, but their structure is more complex, as it can include curly and patterned elements. In particular figured ceilings predominantly have individual or group convex elements. The abstract appearance of a complex plasterboard ceiling implies the presence of spiral structures, and very often when finishing using different colors. A "floating ceiling" involves installation using fittings and metal pins, as well as specially planned lighting to create an airy volume.

Plasterboard structures on the ceiling

The design of the ceiling surface using drywall is a rather variable method, while not requiring compliance with any special technological difficulties. Even a novice master can independently build both a single-level and a complex plasterboard ceiling structure, you just need to purchase the necessary material, the appropriate “toolkit” and remember the basic technological provisions.

Required Tools

In order for the installation of the drywall sheet to take place without forced problems, the master must take care of tools such as:


Necessary materials

In addition to the main constituent element - drywall sheets, ceiling, guide and supporting metal profiles, direct suspension, sealing tape, connectors, profile crabs, dowels and self-tapping screws will be required.

Marking and surface preparation

In order for the future plasterboard ceiling to turn out to be even, without distortions and deviations from the intended sketch, it is necessary to pre-mark the ceiling surface before starting the installation.

The main purpose of such marking is to draw a common horizontal line along the perimeter of the walls under the ceiling to further obtain a flat ceiling surface. A secondary task will be the additional drawing of parallels on the concrete or wooden base. It is along these lines that the carrier profile will be attached.

As a rule, the general horizontal is located below the ceiling surface at a level of 8 to 15 cm. This value depends on the evenness of the draft ceiling, as well as on the complexity of the degree of concentration of communications that will be located in the space between the concrete (wooden) surface and drywall sheets.

In drawing parallel lines on a draft ceiling, a certain step between them should be observed. Its recommended value is 50-60 cm. It is also worth carefully observing the parallelism of the applied lines not only among themselves, but also relative to the line of the walls.

If the area of ​​the repaired premises is small, then to control the correctness of applying the appropriate markup, you can use either water or ordinary building level. However, if the area of ​​​​the ceiling surface is quite extensive, then it is more advisable to use a level or a laser level.

Features of the construction of the frame

The construction of the frame structure must be carried out taking into account many technological requirements so that the future ceiling is not only smooth and beautiful, but also durable and safe. To do this, you should follow only a certain list of professional recommendations.


Drywall installation

The installation technology is simple, does not require special knowledge and skills, you just need to remember the basic provisions.

When constructing plasterboard ceiling structures, the latter very often has to be cut due to the characteristics of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room or the design nuances of the sketch itself. In order to competently and without unnecessary damage to cut the GKL, several general rules should be observed:


Simple installation, a minimum "tool" and "material" set, simple maintenance and a relatively low cost indicator make ceiling structures for many years quite in demand for finishing ceiling surfaces of premises for any purpose.

There are no similar posts, but there are more interesting ones.

The article talks about the rules for installing a false ceiling from GKL. We have tried to make it simple technological map, where close attention is paid to the most difficult moments for beginners.

Almost no repair is now complete without the creation of suspended ceilings. Among all the available cladding options, drywall proved to be the most practical and functional. Using drywall systems, the developer has the opportunity to level the ceiling with any existing curvature, to lay electrical cables, air ducts and other communications in the space between the ceilings, to decorate the room with complex spatial forms.

single level ceiling

The technology of filing a ceiling in one level has many similarities with plasterboard wall cladding, the same metal profile is used here, based on the same installation principles. But there are also many differences, we will try not to lose sight of them.

A simple one-tier cladding is used very often, but even if it is planned to manufacture a multi-level structure, you first need to make a flat ceiling for the entire room, which will serve as the basis for our further add-ons. It rarely happens that the base lining is not needed, or it is logical to make it not solid.

What to do first: walls or ceiling? It is better to deal with the ceiling after a rough finish of the walls (cladding, plaster), then it is much easier to mark and install a more complex and quality-demanding system plane, which is a plasterboard suspended ceiling. Before you start working on the frame, you should perform some preparatory operations:

  • Develop drawings of the future complex ceiling and decide on the layout of all sheets and profiles (how the frame is assembled, we will tell further).
  • Clean the base from crumbling elements, seal the joints between the plates.
  • Designate locations lighting fixtures and bring the cables to the terminal points.
  • Completely free the premises from building materials.
  • Assemble the scaffold with total area horizontal surface of at least 3 m 2 (as a standard sheet).

Perimeter marking

Our task is to mark the lines on the walls along which we will install the starting profile UD-27. It will not work to mark a horizontal level immediately under the ceiling - it is too inconvenient, so at an acceptable height (1.5-1.8 m) we will make a control perimeter.

With the help of a laser builder of planes or a hydraulic level (a transparent hose filled with water), we make marks in each corner of the room with a pencil, which should be in one, strictly horizontal plane. Each wall should have at least two risks, but we recommend placing one intermediate mark in the middle of the walls. It is not necessary to connect them with a chopping cord, but some masters prefer to have solid lines.

With a tape measure at different points, we measure the distance from the control perimeter (from the received scratches or lines) to the carrier ceiling. Where this distance is the smallest, the lowest point of the base is located, from here we will mark the working perimeter. If it is necessary to press as close as possible to the ceiling so as not to “eat up” the height of the room with the frame, then we retreat from the base 40 mm (27 mm - UD, 13 mm - margin) and put at risk. We measure the distance from the risk to the control perimeter. Now, at this distance from the control perimeter, we put other marks (we place them in the corners and in the centers of the walls - similarly to the control ones). Under the ceiling with a chopping cord, from corner to corner, we draw lines. If you moved everything and recaptured it correctly, then the lines will coincide with the intermediate marks located in the centers of the walls.

Suppose the height of the room is 2.7 meters, we made the control perimeter 1.7 meters from the floor. Measurements showed that we have 1 meter to the most clamped place on the ceiling, minus 40 mm to install the profile - we get 96 cm. As a result, all marks of the working perimeter should be at a distance of 96 cm from the control perimeter.

Please note that in this way we inspect the draft ceiling only near the walls, but sometimes it happens that in the middle of the room there is a “belly” on the ceiling or a “tooth” along the line of joining the plates. Find the problem on early stage it is possible with the help of a rule or by pulling the cord in the plane of the working perimeter (a gap of at least 35-40 mm is required between the thread and the ceiling). If such differences are found, we lower the entire perimeter below. Also, when marking the perimeter, one should take into account the thickness of the corrugated channel for wires, which may interfere with the alignment of the frame in a plane.

Assembling the frame

Setting the start profile

We cut the profile UD-27 (hereinafter UD) along the length of each wall and, inserting one into one at the corners, we mount it one by one on the working perimeter. UD is drilled to mineral walls with dowels 6x40 or 6x60 with an interval of 40-50 cm, to structures finished with a steel frame - through the cladding to profiles, with metal screws 25-35 mm long. At the junctions of two UD profiles, we must install fasteners.

When installing the start profile, there are two very important points:

  1. Do not cover the lines of the working perimeter with a profile, place it with a touch to the colored padding.
  2. When fixing the UD to the walls, do not focus only on the line - after nailing the edges of the profile, be sure to attach a long rule to it from below, and then fasten further.

Installation of supporting profiles

The supporting element of the subsystem is the CD-60 profiles (hereinafter referred to as CD), on which the long sides of the plasterboard with thinned edges are joined, in which the reinforcing tape is then laid.

If it is allowed to install racks on the walls with an interval of 60 cm, then for the ceiling the normal distance is 40 centimeters. The direction relative to the window / light, along which the GKL panels and, accordingly, the CD profiles, will be located, does not matter, however, it is much easier to work with shorter profiles and sheets, so we recommend building the ceiling along the shorter walls of the room.

On the starting profiles of long walls, we mark the locations of the CD. We start with the CD, which will become the docking for the first sheet - we retreat 1150 mm from one of the short walls (the width of the sheet with a cut off thinned edge) and put it at risk. From this risk, on a tape measure with an interval of 40 cm, we put more marks in both directions. We do this on both long walls.

Now we measure the length of each CD (we set the roulette sheet according to the marks corresponding to each other) - in 99% of cases, the dimensions of the profiles will vary. Each bearing profile must be 5-7 mm shorter than the distance between the walls along the line of its installation.

The CD is cut to size with scissors, brought into the UD and placed in the design position - the risk must coincide with the center of the profile. The carrier element is fixed in the starting element using a self-tapping screw LN 3.5x9 mm. Be sure to check the distance between the profiles along the axes with a tape measure - the standard is 1200 mm, along the width of the sheets.

If the width of the room exceeds 4 meters, then the CD will have to be spliced ​​using a connecting element. The elongated profiles are installed on the ceiling so that the butted ends are staggered.

Attention! CD with a length of more than 4.5 m should be installed on the ceiling after mounting the hangers.

Often mortise lamps are placed in the false ceiling so that during installation they do not fall on the metal of the subsystem, it is necessary to correct the location of the central meter, or consider a slight relocation of lighting devices.

We fix the suspensions

In most cases, ordinary perforated brackets are suitable for the ceiling, but if the frame needs to be lowered significantly, then you can use adjustable fasteners with a hairpin or elongated U-shaped elements.

We place the hangers behind the CD profile, mark the points for drilling with a pencil - two extreme lugs. Between themselves, the "pawns" are placed at intervals of 50-70 cm, it is better if they form straight lines (this will help us to set the plane).

Using a perforator with a drill 160 mm long, we make holes 40-45 mm deep and fix the brackets to the main ceiling with 6x40 dowels.

The option when the hangers are installed before the fastening of the CD is advisable to use only if the supporting profiles are too long and sag a lot.

We expose the profiles of the frame in a single plane

We described this stage of work in detail in a previous article on false walls from GKL. The procedure here is:

  1. We press the CD to the draft ceiling and fix them in the bracket with nails or long self-tapping screws.
  2. Across the profiles, near the suspension line from UD to UD, we fix the thread (you need to pull it very hard to minimize its sagging).
  3. We release the carrier profiles one by one, set them a millimeter from the cord, scroll through the suspension with two LN screws on each side.
  4. We repeat these operations along all lines of direct suspensions.

Pay attention to two important points:

  1. Do not press the cord with profiles.
  2. As the frame is set relative to the thread, regularly check your work with the rule, drive it along the CD, across and diagonally.

We mount jumpers

At this point, we should have a clear idea of ​​where we have each sheet, it is best to make a simple drawing with the layout of the panels. Now we need to mount jumper profiles under the short joints of the sheets. It is necessary to use crabs, single corner connectors, or UD segments.

Please note that GKL sheets must be placed with a gap of at least 400 mm joints.

Highly important nuance. If we are mounting a multi-tiered ceiling, then to assemble the next level (so that the superstructures are attached to the metal), jumpers should be added in some places (along the contour of the lower level). For example, when making rectangular boxes, it is necessary to assemble a "ladder" between the extreme CDs and nearby UDs.

We sheathe the frame with drywall

Ceiling plasterboard has a thickness of 9.5 mm, but many installers use more rigid Wall panels 12.5 mm thick, often even moisture-resistant drywall (if the neighbors from above are in the habit of flooding). In order to sew up the frame with sheets, at least two people are required, for beginners it is better if three people work: two cut the GKL, feed and hold the sheets, the third wraps them on the profiles.

We fix the panels with metal screws 25 mm long, screw them in until the hat disappears from the plane. Make sure that the sweat of the fasteners does not break through the facing paper. The pitch of the self-tapping screws is from 150 to 200 mm (on the short side - about 75 mm), on adjacent sheets they should go with a difference of 30-50 mm. First, we recommend sewing whole sheets according to the layout, and then inserting and fixing the trim.

If we veneer a simple single-level ceiling, then we adjust the panels to the walls almost closely - we leave a gap of several millimeters. In the case of a multi-tiered ceiling, drywall can be installed only 10-15 cm beyond the projection of the lower tier.

At the joints of sheets that are not glued with cardboard, we chamfer with a knife, its parameters are an angle of 22 degrees, a depth of 2/3 of the panel thickness, a width of about one and a half centimeters. Such a cutting of the seams is necessary so that the drywall putty has a sufficient layer at the short joints of the sheets.

Multi-level ceiling made of plasterboard

As we have already said, the base for a multi-tiered ceiling is the usual flat design. In the vast majority of cases, the second and subsequent levels are much smaller in area than the main one, so the starting plane is assembled almost completely (only sheets are not tightly fitted to the walls). Sometimes it happens that add-ons occupy a large area, then to save materials, the first level is made incomplete - it looks like several islands.

In any case, we begin work on the second level by marking its contour on the plane of the main ceiling. Here, depending on the configuration of the superstructure, it is necessary to use a square, a rule and a chopping cord, or improvised compasses.

Now on the wall from the main ceiling we retreat the specified distance (the height of the second level). Usually, the superstructure is made from 50 to 120 cm high, but when setting marks, do not forget that the profile will be sheathed with drywall, which is +12.5 mm to the side height. In order not to assemble complex structures from various frame elements, we suggest using start profiles as a board for superstructures. Most often, craftsmen use UD and get a “standard” board up to 45 mm high - this is 27 mm (profile) + 12.5 mm (GKL) + 3 mm (perforated corner). However, it is also possible to work with wall starting profiles UW with a width of 50, 75, 100 mm and have boards with a height of approximately 65, 80, 115 mm at the exit, respectively. For more high levels a design of two UDs and a strip of gypsum is used.

So, we fix the starting profile along the contour of the second tier on the ceiling, we direct the shelves of the U-profile towards the walls. If our superstructure has a curvilinear shape, then the starting profile, no matter what we use, is cut with scissors into sectors of 4-5 cm (it turns out a “snake”).

We fix with metal screws through one of the shelves. The screw must be screwed into the frame profile of the first level. Remember, we collected ladders for this and put additional jumpers? But, as an option, the extreme CD of the base level can be set along the line of the edge of the box, for example, move 50 cm away from the wall and place all other profiles from it.

Attention! To ensure that the board is firmly fixed, turn the screw closer to inner corner profile. Use a long bat.

We fix the UD profile on the wall, creating another perimeter. This profile is placed either close to the first level, or lowered - it all depends on the design height of the side. The fixing technique does not differ from the installation of the perimeter for the first level.

Now it is necessary to install CD-profiles from the UD perimeter to the side of the second level. Their basic step between them is 40 cm, but when laying out the metal, it is necessary to take into account the location of the recessed fixtures. The length of these CDs for rectangular add-ons will be cyclic or the same for the entire room, but for curved structures, each profile will have to be measured individually.

We insert the CD into the starting perimeter profile and inside the bead profile. We fix the metal relative to each other with 9 mm LN screws, first near the wall, and then on the board. When we fasten the CD to the bead shelf, it serves as a spacer, that is, the bead can be set strictly vertically with the help of the CD. To check the quality of installation of rectilinear structures, apply a rule to the board or pull a thread near it, you can check the curved structure by placing a square between the first level sheathing and the board.

When the CDs are placed in their places, on the main ceiling or on the profiles of the first level, we fix direct suspensions and by thread or, as a rule, set the metal of the second level in one plane.

Now you can massively sheathe the frame with drywall. What to veneer in the first place, a side or a common plane - it does not matter, most often they start with a vertical strip. It is wrapped with the same 25 mm self-tapping screws with an interval of 150 mm, for curved products - gypsum strips are fixed more often, from 50 to 70 mm.

Horizontal filing should be done from the corners of the room, and then move to the centers of the walls. To avoid cracks, avoid joining sheets in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe corner, always line both sides of the superstructure with one piece. For example, for straight boxes, this element always looks like a "boot".

Do not try to make GKL blanks exactly along the contour of the frame, practice shows that it is better to leave an allowance of 3-4 cm and, after screwing the sheets to the metal, cut off the excess with a knife or saw (curvilinear structures) and process the end face with a planer.

If, according to the project, the superstructure should have a niche for hidden lighting, then the lower horizontal sheet is extended overboard to the required distance of 50-100 mm, and this overhang is cut so as to repeat the contour of the second level. At the edge of the overhang, a UD is mounted, with the shelves facing up (straight or "snake"), a frontal strip 50-70 mm wide is screwed to it.

We considered the first and second levels, but any subsequent tiers will be mounted using identical technology. This is a basic "instruction" for installing a ceiling made of plasterboard, it is unrealistic to reveal the nuances of all possible designs in one article. However, if you have grasped the principle of assembling frames and understood how to sheathe them correctly, then you can easily make a ceiling of any complexity, just treat the drywall system as a designer.