Drying oil- the main binder and thinner for oil paint compositions. Drying oils are intended for the manufacture of thickly grated and ready-to-eat oil and alkyd paints, as well as for diluting these paints and bringing them to working viscosity before use.

Drying oil application

In artistic and design works, drying oil is used quite widely. Drying oil is used for impregnation and priming of wooden surfaces before painting and for subsequent dilution of paints. Drying oil is used for priming wooden products, which later acquire "Khokhloma gold" - this is aluminum powder (silver) applied to the dried drying oil. In the past, for lack of other material, painting and icon painting were covered with linseed oil (as a varnish), then they did not yet know that drying oil turns black over time and many icons that have survived to this day were damaged by this niello and needed to be restored.

Drying oil types

Drying oil natural- This is a product of processing vegetable drying oils, in the process of heating it to a temperature of two hundred degrees. Drying oil is called by the type of oil (linseed, hemp). The most widely used linseed oil. When cooking, driers are added to the drying oil to speed up the drying time and the formation of a film. Films of natural drying oil have maximum strength, plasticity, resistance to weathering. Various drying oils are used depending on the color of the paints. When preparing white and light paints, linseed drying oil is used, since hemp darkens.

Drying oil semi-natural. It is obtained by processing vegetable oils by polymerization and oxidation. To give a liquid consistency, they are diluted with organic solvents (turpentine, white spirit, and so on). The content of semi-natural drying oil should not exceed more than forty-five percent. Films differ from films of natural drying oil in their thinner thickness, greater hardness and water resistance. They are less elastic, inferior in durability. The most widely used are two types of semi-natural drying oils. Drying oil polymerized and drying oil "oksol".

Drying oil artificial (synthetic). Contains no more than thirty-five percent of vegetable oils or does not contain them at all. For registration are recommended: drying oil alkyd, slate, salt.

Drying oil combined. When dried, it forms quite strong films. It is used for external and internal works.

Drying oil quality indicators:

• Viscosity. With a high viscosity of drying oil, it is difficult to spread the paint composition over the surface in a thin layer. With low viscosity, the paint flows down from inclined and vertical surfaces.
• Drying rate - the process by which liquid drying oil, applied to a glass surface in a thin layer, hardens and turns into a film. There are two stages of drying: "Drying from dust" - the moment of formation of the thinnest surface film, and "Complete drying" - the moment of formation of a continuous film over the entire thickness of the applied drying oil.

The drying time of natural drying oil "from dust" is twelve hours, full - twenty-four hours, at a temperature of eighteen to twenty-two degrees.

Storage and Precautions

• Drying oil is a fire and explosive material due to the presence of oils and solvents in the drying oil.
• The premises where work is carried out must be provided supply and exhaust ventilation in explosion-proof design or conditions for natural ventilation.
• If drying oil gets on the skin, wipe with a rag and rinse warm water with soap.
• Store drying oil in a tightly closed container, protected from moisture and direct rays, away from fire, electrical appliances.
• In case of thickening, dilution of drying oil with white spirit, nefras or other solvent is allowed to oil paints in an amount of 1:10 by weight.
• Warranty period of storage is 12 months from the date of manufacture.

Any kind of work on interior decoration rooms that are associated with painting wooden surfaces with oil paints cannot do without the use of drying oil. Even despite the recent emergence of new, more advanced formulations that perform the same tasks. What is drying oil? Why is it needed and how to use it correctly? - these are the questions, the answers to which will help to get a perfectly painted surface.

Drying oil types

At the moment, it is customary for experts to distinguish three types of drying oil: natural drying oil, drying oil "Oksol" and composite drying oil.

natural drying oil

Natural drying oil, the quality of which is strictly regulated by GOST 7931-76, consists of 97% of vegetable oil natural origin (linen or sunflower), which has undergone a special heat treatment, and 3% from a desiccant.

1. Such drying oil reliably protects wood, however, it can only be used indoors.
2. In addition, natural drying oil has a fairly high cost by today's standards.

Drying oil "Oksol"

Drying oil "Oksol", the qualitative composition of which must comply with GOST 190-78, is a substance that has a slight odor and consists of 55% vegetable oil (linseed or sunflower), 49% white spirit and 5% desiccant.

1. "Oksol", on a par with natural drying oil, perfectly copes with its main task, namely, it protects wooden surfaces, forming a dense film that is resistant to water, which does not blacken for a long time.
2. At the same time, Oxol drying oil is much cheaper than natural drying oil and, unlike the latter, can even be used to treat any surface outside the building.
3. The best is the Oksol drying oil, which has linseed oil in its composition, so it costs a little more than the one made on the basis of sunflower oil.

Composite drying oil

Composite drying oil is the cheapest drying oil with a characteristic pungent odor. It does not have a GOST number, so the composition of such a substance is not regulated at the legislative level, and production is carried out exclusively according to technical specifications.

1. Composite drying oils, as a rule, contain various chemical components, in particular, harmful and toxic to human body products of the petrochemical industry (for example, petroleum resins).
2. Therefore, such compositions are strictly prohibited for indoor use.
3. The smell of composite drying oil remains for a long time even with good ventilation in the room. this is the cheapest drying oil with a characteristic pungent odor.

Features of the use of drying oil "Oksol"

Drying oil "Oksol" is a quick-drying substance that has an increased hardness and forms a glossy coating on the surface of the material processed by it. It penetrates well into the pores of the tree, thereby emphasizing its structure.

• Drying oil "Oksol" is for sale in containers of various capacities, completely ready for use.
• It is necessary to apply such a substance on a dry surface, which, if necessary, is sanded in advance and thoroughly cleaned of dust or grease. Only after that do they move on to polishing.
• First, the composition is well mixed, if the drying oil has thickened during storage, it can be diluted with white spirit, nefras, and also, if desired, a solvent for varnishes and paints (oil and enamels).
• The drying oil is applied in a thin layer with a brush or a special roller. At the same time, all work must be carried out in a room that is well ventilated with an air temperature of at least 15 degrees Celsius and a relative humidity of 80%.

• The drying time of drying oil "Oksol" is approximately 24 hours, so the interval between each subsequent layer should be approximately a day.
• The rest of the unused drying oil can be stored for a year in a tightly closed container. For this, a dark, dry place inaccessible to children is suitable.
• To protect your hands during the polishing process, it is recommended to use rubber gloves. It is also important to avoid getting drying oil in the eyes. If drying oil has got on open areas of the body, then they are cleaned with rags or a rag soaked in vegetable oil. Then thoroughly wash everything with warm soapy water.
• With the help of drying oil "Oksol" it is also possible to putty small cracks by mixing it with sawdust until a thick homogeneous mixture is obtained.
• All work to avoid fire hazards must be carried out away from sources of open flame.

Subject to all the recommendations, the work on polishing is quite simple, so almost anyone can do it. To learn more about the process of professional wood processing, you can watch the following video: [

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The use of wood as a building material is back in fashion - having become saturated with the plastic of the most different types, synthetics and substitutes, people begin to appreciate the natural purity, safety and incomparable appearance. That's just the tree needs serious processing. Should I use drying oil or give preference to more modern materials?

Natural materials - in search of safe!

If you have chosen a tree for finishing your house, guided, first of all, by its environmental friendliness, then it will certainly be important for you to comply with this condition to the end. After all, an environmentally friendly tree can be covered with such an amount of chemistry with your own hands that any sense of using this material is lost.

And here a slightly forgotten drying oil enters the arena. Of all the film-forming materials that are on the market today, it is objectively the most natural. This statement is easily confirmed by the fact that most drying oils consist of natural oils (hemp, linseed, sunflower, etc.) - the percentage of the natural component is from 45 to 95%.

Drying oil or, as it was called in the old days, "boiled oil" was known to master painters several centuries ago. Already in the 17th century, every artist used this material. Today, the technology for making natural drying oils practically does not differ from the methods known in antiquity. There are different types of this film former, the properties of which differ quite strongly.

Oil drying oils - what you need to know?

No matter how many manufacturers there are, the production technology is generally the same for all - heat-treated vegetable oil is mixed with desiccants after filtration. Desiccants are metal compounds that accelerate the process of polymerization of the oil film. Cobalt, lead, manganese, iron, lithium, strontium - the very name of these metals raises serious doubts about the safety of the compounds obtained. It should be noted that GOST, which regulates the production of this material (GOST 7931-76), was developed back in the USSR, and has long required a thorough revision.

If you choose a composition, then look for the necessary information on the label, which particular desiccant was used - cobalt desiccant is considered relatively safe. According to GOST, it should be from 3 to 5%. Exceeding this figure leads to a too high rate of drying oil polymerization, and the process does not stop even after drying, which subsequently leads to darkening and cracking of the layer. That is why artists today use oils and paints without desiccants.

Is it possible to do without desiccants? Of course you can. Although this is a rarity, if you wish, you can still find such compounds, or compounds with a minimum content of this component. In fact, they are the ones who are best able to protect wooden structures from rot. Ordinary drying oils with driers completely harden in 24 hours, and even faster in hot and windy weather, while compositions without driers can harden up to 5 days. If you dissolve the oil paint with such a composition, then its curing time will also increase.

Such a long polymerization period allows the oil component to penetrate as deep as possible into the wood fibers, due to which the wood will better repel moisture and resist fungus, woodworms.

In the case of desiccants, the oils do not penetrate as deeply in 24 hours. The film formed on the surface of the tree can peel off and collapse over time, because of which all your efforts will go down the drain. That is why the old wooden buildings, treated with drying oils without desiccants, have been perfectly preserved to this day, while modern wooden buildings need constant maintenance with their own hands.

The natural rate of polymerization of natural vegetable oils depends not so much on the production technology, but on the quantitative content of glycerides of polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as linoleic and linolenic. Linseed (GOST 5791-81) and hemp (GOST 8989-73) oils can boast the highest content of glycerides - 80% and 70%, respectively. For comparison, sunflower oil, which is also often used for inexpensive drying oils, contains about 30% linolenic acid glycerides, and therefore, even in the presence of desiccants, it dries several times slower. Olive oil is practically devoid of the ability to harden, over the years it will only thicken, and castor oil does not thicken at all.

By existing GOST natural drying oil for 97% should consist of natural vegetable oil. However, manufacturers often violate this rule in an effort to improve the setting speed. It is easy to determine this with the knowledge gained - if drying oil in sunflower oil, according to the manufacturer, hardens faster than in 24 hours, the amount of driers in its composition clearly exceeds the 3% established by GOST. And therefore, from the point of view of environmental safety, it will be more harmful than drying oil in linseed oil, which hardens in the same period.

Requirements for production technology are also described in GOST 7931-76 and have not been revised for a long time. During cooking, vegetable oils undergo languishing at high temperatures - at a temperature of about 300 ° C, they are heated and kept for about 12 hours. Further, the technology may differ - drying oil obtained by heat treatment without air purging is called standard (polymerized), and the compositions that have passed the purging are called oxidized, or oxidized. Natural oil drying oil has a sweetish aroma of vegetable oil, its color varies from light brown to dark brown, almost black, it dries for a long time.

Not natural - drying oil drying oil strife!

The closest to natural drying oil is combined - these compositions contain about a third of the solvent, often white spirit. This reduces the cost of production and offers the buyer a product that dries at a faster rate. The use of drying oil on solvents fits perfectly into the repair from the outside - both quickly and reliably, and the smell will quickly disappear.

If you dilute vegetable oils even more, you get the so-called oxol, the production of which is regulated by GOST 190-78. - these are the obligatory 55% of natural oil, the remaining 45% are divided among themselves by solvents and desiccants. Oxol dries much faster due to the active evaporation of the solvent, and therefore it is convenient to use it in outdoor work with your own hands. In internal use, as in the case of the combined one, it is not recommended - due to the solvent, the composition has a sharp, bad smell, which can be preserved even after the layer has hardened.

The low cost of oxoli makes it popular among the masses. Oksol is used to dilute oil paints and enamels, since by itself it cannot adequately protect wooden structures. If you choose oxol, we recommend giving preference to more expensive compositions based on linseed oil - they create a strong and elastic film on the surface of the tree, and such drying oil dries faster.

Alkyd drying oil is a film-forming composition, the main component of which is alkyd resin (glyphthalic, xyphthalic or pentaphthalic), as well as modified oils and solvents. Objectively, this is the most acceptable combination of price and quality - alkyd compounds perfectly withstand temperature extremes, withstand the effects of atmospheric phenomena and are not very susceptible to ultraviolet radiation. Is post-processing necessary? Necessarily! Such drying oil dries for about a day, after which at least two layers of varnish or paint should be applied.

Composite drying oil occupies the last place in terms of the quality of the coating being created and its characteristics. However, it is difficult to call it drying oil - it is a product of oil refining, which has a similar purpose, for example, to dilute paint. There is not even an appropriate GOST for the manufacture of such compositions. In appearance, such compositions are easy to distinguish by a high degree of transparency. Composite drying oil dries longer and is poorly absorbed into the wood surface. This material should be used only for covering temporary structures or to dilute inexpensive paint.

Natural drying oil is easy to identify by its dark brown color and the characteristic sweetish aroma of heat-treated vegetable oil. If there is a pungent smell of chemistry, this is no longer natural drying oil, but combined or oxol. There should not be any sedimentary formations, spots or lumps inside the jar in all cases. You have every right to demand a certificate of conformity from the seller.

With composite drying oil, you should be doubly careful, since such compounds can be toxic, and therefore high-quality drying oils are accompanied by a hygiene certificate. Different shades in the composition may indicate the presence of a residue of oils (fuza) - composite drying oils should not have any color at all. Fuzz is the reason that drying oil takes a very long time to dry. If the so-called osprey (a product of oil refining) penetrated into the composition, then the drying oil will simply never dry out. The presence of such inclusions can also give out a pronounced odor.

It should be remembered that all drying oils are fire hazardous. Their use and storage should be away from sources of fire and heat. While the drying oil dries, do not use electronics or smoke indoors. Be sure to purchase a fire extinguisher and other safety equipment.

Wood is very often used in construction and everyday life, but Oksol drying oil will help protect it from the destructive effects of insects and time. Let's get acquainted with the features of this composition, its characteristics and, of course, dwell on the practical part.

Purpose and principle of operation of drying oil

The principle of operation is that most oils, upon contact with oxygen, heat and light, thicken very intensively, and a thin layer completely hardens. This is due to fatty acid glycerides, because their amount and the degree of iodine number (an indicator of the number of double bonds in the carbon chain) are directly proportional to the rate of setting of the agent. Linen and hemp compositions of drying oil Oksol (GOST 190–78) are most effective, since the oils of these plants have 80% and 70% of glycerides of linoleic and linolenic acids, respectively, and the iodine number exceeds 150.

It should be noted that in its natural form, any vegetable oil freezes for quite a long time, and in order to accelerate this property, it is subjected to heat treatment. When heated, the hardening-retarding substances decompose, and salts provoke rapid oxidation. In addition, special compounds are introduced that contribute to its rapid drying (driers). As a result, the film deposited on the surface becomes solid within 6 to 36 hours.

Types of drying oils and their features

There are several varieties. Natural 97% consist of plant oils (sunflower or flax), the rest is occupied by a desiccant. Their main purpose is to dilute paints and treat wooden surfaces in rooms. Such drying oils are divided into oxidized and polymerized. The latter have a darker color, and products treated with it age faster.

Characteristics of drying oil Oksol (GOST 190–78) practically do not differ from natural. It is applied to internal and external works. But the composition also includes a solvent, which gives a pungent odor. Also, this type is cheaper than the previous one. Drying oil Oksol is produced in two grades - "V" and "PV". The first are created on the basis of flax or hemp oils. To create the second, petroleum polymer resins and other technical oils are used. Therefore, when working with drying oil, especially the PV brand, you should be extremely careful, wear respirators and protective gloves.

Often Oksol is marked "combined", "composite" or "semi-natural", which once again proves its origin. But sometimes it makes a fundamental difference for those who care about composition. Combined Oksol received rapeseed oil as a natural component, while sunflower oil was mainly used for production. But the situation was complicated by the fact that the new component belongs to the class of non-drying ones. Then it was pre-oxidized, and as a result, the combined Oxol received the same characteristics as the original version of the composition.

In the broad sense of the word, combined drying oil is obtained by mixing oils of several plants or those that have undergone different processing, the addition of synthetic substances and a solvent is also allowed.. The use of this option is more common in the preparation of paints. Drying oil of several brands is produced. In the designation, the first is the letter "K", followed by a number. If an even number is indicated in the marking, then the mixture is used for interior work, and an odd number is used for painting outdoor objects.

The last type is synthetic compounds. The basis for paints is alkyd drying oil, its cost is much lower than oil, which is a definite plus. Another type is compositional compositions. Their quality is not high enough, and due to increased toxicity, use is limited only to outdoor work. When choosing synthetic drying oils, one should be extremely careful, since if at least a small deposit of natural oils is present in them, then the layer after painting may not dry out for a very long time. The presence of such inclusions can be determined visually. This mixture has a reddish tint and a black precipitate.

Specifications - we study GOST

Drying oil Oksol (GOST 190–78) is characterized by the following properties. Due to the solvent, it has a pungent odor that does not disappear immediately. The time of complete drying is no more than a day. In addition, drying oil Oksol is highly flammable and toxic, therefore, when working with it, all safety rules should be followed.

According to GOST 190–78, marking is carried out depending on the composition, for example, drying oil “B”, which has excellent properties, is made only from hemp and linseed oil. It can be used both for dilution and for the manufacture of oil paints. It is also acceptable to carry out external and internal painting work. Drying oil "PV", created on the basis of other technical vegetable oils (sunflower, grape, soybean, corn, etc.), has a similar purpose, but its use is limited only to indoor work.

Both types of Oksoli cannot be used for painting floors.

The technical characteristics of drying oil Oksol are indicated in GOST 190–78, but nevertheless we will dwell on them in more detail. The acid number for type "B" is no more than 6 mg KOH/g, and for "PV" - 8 mg KOH/g. The exception is drying oil based on sunflower oil, in which case this figure can reach 10. It is unacceptable for the sediment to exceed 1%, transparency must be complete. The mass fraction of non-volatile substances ranges from 54.5 to 55.5%, regardless of the brand. The flash point in a closed crucible is above 32 °C.

Drying oil Oksol is stored mainly in metal containers, but it is strictly forbidden to open it with tools that give a spark. When transporting, it is necessary to use the transport marking, namely the “Keep away from heat” sign. In more detail, all the characteristics of the composition, as well as safety requirements, test methods and acceptance rules are described in GOST 190–78.

The wisdom of coloring products with Oksol

Now consider the features of the use of drying oil Oksol. In general, there is no great difficulty in this, but we want to highlight some of the nuances, so we will analyze the order of work.

How to paint products with drying oil Oksol - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Preparatory Stage

Due to the pungent odor and toxic emissions, special attention should be paid to safety. All work is carried out in overalls, respiratory organs also need special protection, so you should prepare a respirator in advance, and rubber gloves are put on your hands. If the composition has got on the skin, then it is necessary to immediately wipe it off with a rag moistened with vegetable oil, and wash the damaged area well with warm water and soap. Avoid getting drying oil in the organs of vision. In addition, open flames are prohibited in the premises where work is carried out. And all lighting sources and electrical equipment must be reliably protected from explosions. And make sure you have good ventilation.

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Which drying oil is better - choose from 4 options and put into practice

When, where and by whom drying oil was invented is not exactly known, but a person uses this composition, several thousand are already gone. In ancient times, it was made from different types of oil, technical progress has made its own adjustments and now there are 4 types of drying oil, specifications which we will analyze further. And practitioners will learn how to dilute drying oil and how to apply it with their own hands.

What is the difference between 4 types of drying oil

In ancient times, "boiled oil", namely the so-called drying oil, was used as an impregnation for wood and as a base for paints, now a metal primer and the manufacture of various putty compounds have been added to this list.

Option number 1. Natural formulations

The natural group consists almost entirely of natural oils. Production and composition are regulated by the Soviet GOST 7931-76, according to this standard, a real good impregnation should consist of 97% natural oils and only 3% is the so-called desiccant.

Oxides of manganese, iron, cobalt, etc. act as a desiccant. This additive is needed to enhance the film-forming effect, in other words, so that the impregnation dries. Without a desiccant, the impregnated surface will never dry, at the same time, if the dose is increased, the coating will become brittle and crack over time.

In fact, drying oil can be cooked from any natural vegetable oil, but most often linseed, hemp, sunflower or tung oil is used for this purpose. Linen impregnation is considered the best, it dries in about a day, followed by hemp, and drying oils from sunflower and olive oil take the longest to dry.

Although formally natural drying oils are classified as varnishes, in fact they are closer to the primer. These compositions can be considered universal, they can be used everywhere, but since the price for them is quite high, such drying oils are used only for the impregnation of elite wood, restoration work and the production of expensive paints.

Natural impregnation is not able to withstand serious loads, therefore, when processing wooden floors, it can only be used as an intermediate, preparatory composition. But for decorative wooden products, this is a great option.

Option number 2. Semi-natural impregnations

Semi-natural drying oils are better known under the name "Oksol". With serious amounts of work, they are considered an excellent alternative to natural compounds.

Oksol is produced according to GOST 190-78, according to which total mass 55% natural boiled oil, 40% white spirit (organic solvent) and 5% desiccant must be present. Theoretically, they can be used everywhere, but the solvent gives a strong smell, so oxols are more often used for outdoor work.

Unlike the previous option, an increase in the amount of desiccant does not entail a decrease in quality, on the contrary, such coatings dry faster, they are much stronger, and most importantly, they are much cheaper. Plus, the consumption of oxols, compared with the natural group, is about a quarter less.

According to the rules, there should be instructions on the packaging of high-quality oxoli, and here you need to carefully study the composition. The fact is that in semi-natural impregnations the use of mineral and synthetic oils is strictly prohibited, the base must be natural.

Option number 3. Combined drying oils

The combined group is quite wide, these impregnations can be called an improved oxol to some extent, the composition and general production technology are regulated by GOST 19007-73. The basis can be several types of oils with different technology processing. The solvent is present, but it is not more than 30%.

But the main difference between the combined drying oil and all the others is that here, along with traditional driers, synthetic modifiers are used. All this in combination significantly improves the performance of the coating. In addition, these compounds do not have such a pungent odor as oxols.

The combined group is marked with the letter "K" and a numerical code, for example, "K-3" or "K-12". So, compositions with odd codes are used for outdoor work, and an even line is for indoor use.

Option number 4. Synthetic drying oils

Synthetics are considered the lowest quality product. These drying oils can only boast of a low price, all other parameters leave much to be desired. Moreover, these compositions do not even have their own GOST, they are produced according to TU (technical specifications) and each manufacturer has its own conditions.

• Synthetics are made from petrochemical waste and other similar industries;
• The smell of such products, to put it mildly, is “wildly” unpleasant;
• In enclosed spaces, the smell can persist for up to several months;
• The color is dark, so synthetics are not suitable for the manufacture of light paints and putties;
• The consistency is thick, often such drying oils need to be further diluted.

Synthetic drying oils are mainly used in the manufacture of dark thick paints, pastes and putties, but only for outdoor use. In the synthetic line, relatively good quality only alkyd compounds differ, they are new development based on modern polymers.

Frequently asked Questions

Question	Answer
In what proportion are thickened paints diluted.	Thickened paints are made on a different basis, so the instructions for each case are different. Personally, I use a universal recipe - I slowly add Oksol to the base and stir until the consistency becomes like that of liquid sour cream.
Is it possible to dilute silver with drying oil.	Yes, you can make good paint on drying oil, but just keep in mind that such silver will not be heat-resistant. On average, the proportions are 1:3 or 1:4. Below in the video in this article you will find relevant information on this issue.
How to dilute drying oil	Thickened natural compounds are diluted with castor oil or turpentine; All others can be diluted with white spirit, turpentine or kerosene.
How is paraffin impregnation done on drying oil.	The composition includes 5 weight parts of drying oil, 1 weight part of turpentine and 8 weight parts of paraffin; First, paraffin and turpentine are mixed in a water bath; Further, in a thin stream with constant stirring, add drying oil; The mixture is applied to the tree with a brush in a hot state, dries for about 2-3 days.
Is it possible to make drying oil with your own hands.	Yes you can: Take the oil and gradually heat it up to 160º C; When heated, foam will form - this is water coming out; In this state, the oil is boiled until the water evaporates completely and the foam disappears. On average, it takes 3-4 hours; Then a desiccant is added, for each liter there is 30-40 gr. You need to add carefully and in small portions, as there will be a lot of foam; After adding the desiccant, the composition warms up for another 10-15 minutes, after which it cools.