Do-it-yourself log house: how to build a house with step-by-step instructions. Do-it-yourself country house from a bar Construction of a country house from a bar with your own hands
The dream of many citizens is a beautiful small house outside the city, where you can escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, hide from the heat, feel the pleasant freshness of the earth under your feet instead of hot asphalt. But just not for everyone these dreams get a real embodiment, it seems that country house- it is difficult, and expensive, and long. In fact, build country house quite easy with your own hands.
We plan space
Choosing a place for the future country house- not the time for hasty decisions, because there is not so much space. A well-thought-out competent layout will help to use every piece of land as efficiently as possible. Even though this is your land, you will have to fulfill a number of requirements, maintaining a minimum distance:
- from the street - 5 m
- from the road - 3 m
- from the neighboring site - 3 m
We do not consider the option with a lowland - water will accumulate there. Optimally - the highest place on the site in its northern (north-western) part.
Projects of small country houses
Considering typical projects of country houses, it is easy to see that the undisputed favorite is a one-story building with an attic. This is a time-tested version of a country house, while you can refuse a utility block, because inventory and household supplies can be stored in the attic.
A terrace can be attached to the house - in summer it can be used as a dining room. Two-storey country houses often obtained without actually erecting a “clean” second floor, instead of it attic. Then on the first floor you can plan the kitchen and living room, and the second floor - under the personal space (bedrooms) of the owners.
Advice! You can save a lot on the heating system - even at the most modest prices for the installation of a classic (boiler, pipes and radiators) accounts for 15-20% of the total budget. If you are building a small country house with your own hands, where you intend to live only in the "season" (late spring - early autumn), then you can use electric or infrared heaters to heat it in bad weather.
Prefabricated country houses are becoming very popular - unpretentious, outwardly monotonous parallelepipeds with roof changed architecturally interesting buildings, with an improved layout, one / two floors.
You buy a kind of building kit, such a country house is easy to build, having only basic knowledge about construction. The main thing is that it already provides for all systems - electrical wiring, ventilation, air conditioning, plumbing. This will help to avoid many mistakes that beginners make when they decide to build a country house with their own hands.
A collapsible country house is designed for a long vacation with family or friends, it is larger in area, it can be one or two floors, with an improved layout. This house is equipped technical room, kitchen, lounges and bathroom, equipped with heating, ventilation, air conditioning, supplied with electricity.
The house can be equipped with a water heater, sink, countertop, hanging shelves, shower cabin necessary plumbing. After installing such a country house, no additional repair work, it is completely ready for operation.
Laying the foundation
The choice of the type of foundation is directly related to the choice of material from which the house will be built, as well as the number of storeys. Light houses (from rounded wood, beam, frame houses and modular) can be erected on a columnar or screw foundation, heavy (brick, aerated concrete, stone, concrete blocks) and two-storey houses will require bookmarks strip foundation(as an option - prefabricated, from reinforced concrete blocks) around the entire perimeter and under the load-bearing walls of the house.
It is important to know the depth of soil freezing - the foundation should be laid below this level, taking into account the level at which groundwater occurs.
In the basement, it is required to equip waterproofing at a level of 0.2-0.5 m from the ground. If the soil is dry enough (sand), a cement-sand screed 2-4 cm thick can be made as a screed. For wet soil, roofing material will need to be laid on top of such a screed - in two layers. Alternatively, roofing material can be glued onto a dry screed using hot mastic. Waterproofing is arranged below the expected level of laying beams for the floor.
Advice! In the basement, to ensure ventilation of the underground, small holes are made, which are covered with a protective mesh.
A blind area is created around the basement, its width is at least 70 cm (it should protrude further than the overhang of the eaves), which has a slight slope directed from the walls of the house. To do this, the top layer of the earth is removed, clay (sand) is poured, on top of it - a layer of gravel (gravel, broken brick) and poured with concrete (rolled up with asphalt).
Floor and walls
Flooring begins with laying the log. To insulate the floor between the lags, a heater is laid, on top of which a vapor barrier is laid out. It is attached to the lags with a stapler, the joints are glued with adhesive tape. Then a subfloor is laid, for which an unedged, cheapest board is used, having previously treated it with a remedy for dampness and decay. And then they spread the finishing floor. AT two-story house the ceiling beams of the first floor serve as a frame for the floor on the second floor.
Buying a summer cottage is a joyful event in the life of every person. And it’s good if a solid house is already present on the site. However, even in the absence of a residential building, you can easily solve this problem by doing the work of building a house with your own hands. It doesn't have to cost a lot of money. Exist interesting projects country houses, allowing you to build full-fledged residential buildings with your own hands from available materials.
The simplest country house can be built from logs, cement and sawdust. Even these elementary materials make it possible to build a beautiful, reliable and warm structure. At the same time, such a house will be completely environmentally friendly and safe for human health. Instead of cement, you can use a mixture of clay, straw and sand.
First step
Make a foundation. The design will weigh quite a bit, so the simplest strip or columnar foundation, which is more preferable in such situations, will do.
Second step
Prepare the base for the house. For bottom strapping it is recommended to use the best possible quality timber. Before laying the timber, it is necessary to lay reliable waterproofing on the foundation. Also, the beam of the lower trim must be waterproofed from above.
For additional rigidity, the strapping beam should be braided with wire. load-bearing walls houses are made up of wooden poles. At the end, you should get a stable frame structure.
Third step
On top of the waterproofing of the lower trim, lay out the rollers of cement or clay-sand mortar. Fill the gaps between such rollers with sawdust and proceed to laying out the firewood. Before laying firewood, it is recommended to impregnate it with an antiseptic composition.
Fourth step
Take a rounded knife and use it to spread the mortar between the stacked firewood. Over time, the wood will dry out, and you will need to fill the gaps with mortar as they appear.
Fifth step
Lay out the walls of firewood in layers. They laid a layer - filled up all the gaps with sawdust - laid a new layer and so on until the end. As a result, you will get already insulated walls.
sixth step
Sand the edges of the wood with sandpaper. Any kind of burrs will additionally retain moisture, so you need to get rid of them especially carefully.
In the end, you just have to fold the simplest truss system and install the selected roofing material. Give preference to lightweight materials. For example, bitumen is well suited for the roof of such a house.
From the inside, the walls can be plastered, sheathed with clapboard or trimmed at your discretion. Outside walls are usually left unchanged. In any case, do finishing it is recommended not earlier than in 1-2 years, because during this time the wood will shrink. You will have to fill all the gaps that appear with the materials mentioned earlier.
The simplest house-hut can be built with minimal financial investment.
First stage. Make a standard pile foundation and tie it with prefabricated beams.
Second phase. Install the floor beams of the house. The basis of such a structure is represented by rafters in the form of the letter "A". Rafters are installed on a pre-insulated floor. If the house will have a large height, the elements are spliced truss system in height.
Third stage. Sheathe the outside of the walls of the house OSB boards.
Fourth stage. Pull on the sheathed walls a wind-moisture-proof material such as isospan.
Fifth stage. Sheathe roof slopes with the OBS boards you already know. Such sheathing will be a good basis for rolled roofing material. If desired, you can equip a standard crate on the roof and use other finishing materials - profiled sheet, metal tile, etc.
Before laying the finishing roofing material, the roof must be insulated. Usually mineral wool is used for insulation. In the process of performing these works, do not forget about the need to create ventilation gaps. To organize them, a counter-lattice is equipped - it is enough to nail the transverse strips to the elements of the crate to make a small gap.
From the bottom of the roof, install ventilation grilles that will allow air to circulate normally in the under-roof space.
Excellent earthen house with your own hands
A house made of earth is one of the most ancient variants of residential buildings known to mankind. With the observance of technology from ordinary land, you can get a durable, fire-resistant and fairly warm building that does not require practically any financial investments for its construction.
First stage
Prepare the foundation for the future home. In parallel with this, prepare the main building material for the construction of the house in question - bags filled with rammed earth. For the foundation, dig trenches with a depth of about 50-60 cm. Choose the width individually - it should correspond to the width of the bags of earth.
Fill the prepared trenches with gravel. The backfill must be carefully compacted. Cover the entire area under the future earthen house with an approximately 20-centimeter layer of gravel.
Second phase
Lay waterproofing material over the backfill.
Third stage
Draw the circles of the future walls with a building compass. It is desirable that the house has a round shape. Of course, an ordinary rectangular building can also be built from bags of earth, but it is the round walls that are characterized by the highest strength.
Fourth stage
Lay the first layer of pre-prepared bags on top of the previously laid waterproofing material. The mixture in these bags should include soil, sand, cement powder and gravel.
Fill the bags to about 80-85% of the volume and tamp as carefully as possible. Each bag used should be in the shape of a rectangle, like a brick. For better tamping, the mixture in the bag should be slightly moistened with water. Sew up the valves of the bags with ordinary wire.
Be especially careful when laying the first row of bags. Everything must be done in strict accordance with the previously applied markup. Tamp the bags and lightly dampen them with water.
Fifth stage
Lay 2 rows of barbed wire on the first layer of masonry. In this case, the barbed wire will take over the functions of the reinforcing layer. Seal all punctures and ruptures of the bags immediately with gray adhesive tape. This is waterproof tape.
Sixth stage
Start laying out the walls. Install door frames and window frames immediately. Lay each row of bags with earth with a double layer of barbed wire. Additionally, you can secure the wire with staples.
seventh stage
Fill the seams between the individual bags with a mixture of sand, cement, chopped straw and lime.
The bags need to be laid out with some offset seams, approximately the same as with traditional brickwork.
Having reached the height of a person, you can begin to shift each row of laid material to increase the strength of the walls being erected.
The laid walls are plastered. Before applying the plaster, the bags should be treated with cement laitance and allowed to dry. Plastering is carried out on a steel painting grid.
At the junction of the walls, perform additional reinforcement with the same barbed wire.
The interior decoration of an earthen house is usually limited to simple plastering.
In the end, it remains to equip the roof of the earthen house. First install the beam supports - they must be securely clamped between the bags. Sheathe the floors with OSB boards, and lay the finishing material on top. The best coating option for this case is bitumen.
After completing all the basic work, you can cover the walls of your earthen house with finishing plaster or paint.
If desired, even an ordinary change house can be converted into a quite comfortable country house.
First stage. Prepare strip concrete foundation. It is also allowed to use a columnar foundation, but first you need to make sure that the soil on the ground is not subject to severe frost heaving.
Second phase. Let the concrete of the base gain at least half of the branded strength, and then install the change house on the foundation. A crane will help you with this. Adjust the position of the change house with the boards. Pre-treat the boards with an antiseptic and place them under the skids of the building.
Third stage. Assemble the frame of the extension to the change house. To do this, use a 10x5 cm beam. Install the supports on the veranda and triple the horizontal runs under the rafters.
Fourth stage. Sew on the outer side of the walls of the change house a crate for siding or other selected material. For additional insulation, put in the crate mineral wool and cover it with plastic wrap.
Insulate the floor and walls of the extension. From the inside, the insulation must be covered with vapor barrier material.
Fifth stage. Complete the exterior cladding of the house. It is most convenient and rational to use vinyl siding for this.
Sixth stage. Lay out the roof. Metal tile is best combined with siding. Otherwise, when choosing a finish coating, be guided by your preferences and financial capabilities.
Seventh stage. Attach snow guards to roof slopes. Insulate the attic as desired.
Eighth stage. Complete interior decoration house. For example, walls can be sheathed with drywall, covered with a couple of layers of putty and painted. Level the floors and install your preferred floor covering.
As a result, after the addition of an additional room and simple finishing work, the old change house turns into a very comfortable house with a separate bedroom and a large living room-kitchen.
Thus, for the construction of country houses, you can use a wide variety of materials. Craftsmen adapted almost everything that occurs in nature, and even straw, for such work!
Now you know how to build from available and inexpensive materials, and you can build a reliable, safe and comfortable house in your summer cottage.
Successful work!
Video - Do-it-yourself country house projects
A suburban area is not only land with a garden and plantings. Many city dwellers come there for a good rest, so you need to have a house on the site. Not all summer residents have the opportunity to build a comfortable house on six acres. Many people get out of this situation by choosing the option of building an economy class house.
Inexperienced and novice summer residents are faced with the question of choosing cheap materials for construction. Below are examples of inexpensive and cozy country houses with visual photos.
Where to start building
Any construction begins with a plan on paper. The house outside the city is not intended for year-round use, but for the sake of comfort it requires familiarization with a typical project.
Among the projects of country houses in the lead with an attic or attic. This option allows you to abandon the construction on the site of the outbuildings. All inventory and working tools are stored in the attic. In addition to such a house, you can attach a veranda or terrace that acts as a dining room.
Strip foundation requires more time and cost. The positive side of it is that it allows you to use the room under the floor as a basement.
The next stage of preparation is the material of the "box" of the future building. There are several types of inexpensive and reliable building materials:
Frame-panel structures
The frame is mounted with a beam and sheathed wooden planks Fiberboard or chipboard. Expanded polystyrene, glass wool or polystyrene are used as insulation. The result is a house with minimal cost which can be operated all year round.
The house from a bar differs in the durability. Construction work will cost more. When using cheap timber, there is a chance of encountering the problem of shrinkage of the building. As a result, cracks and gaps appear. The log house will also have to be insulated.
A clay house is the cheapest and easiest construction option. Building materials are right under your feet. The construction technique is similar to clay modeling.
The downside is the building process that is too long in time. It will take several seasons to build a clay dwelling.
The trailer is common among newcomers to summer residents. The best option for living in summer time or during the construction of a well-maintained house.
Construction of a frame structure
Frame construction belongs to the category of low-budget. It is not difficult to build a country house with your own hands without the help of specialists. If all necessary materials are ready, the term of work will last several weeks.
To build a house you will need:
- bars for the frame;
- self-tapping screws and corners;
- wooden chipboard or fiberboard;
- insulation;
- piles for the foundation.
Stages of building a frame house
At the marked places, piles are driven in the corners. Mount concrete or brick supports under the joints of the walls. Then they cover them with waterproofing material and tie them with a channel.
A lattice of bars is laid around the entire perimeter. Placed on top of it wooden logs at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. All parts are fixed with corners and self-tapping screws.
Next, vertical racks are mounted, firmly resting on the bar grate. The finished frame is tied and attic logs are placed on top of it. Next comes the work on sheathing the frame with wooden slabs. At this stage, holes are left for windows and doors.
Now you need to decide on the choice of roof for a country house. Most summer residents choose gable and shed roofs. As an economy, the second option deserves more attention. When building a roof, do not forget about the vapor barrier. The roof will be inexpensive sheets of corrugated board or ondulin.
Facing the outside is done using siding. Before this, the outer walls are insulated with special materials. Instead of plastic windows, ordinary wooden ones without double-glazed windows are installed. This approach will significantly reduce the cost of construction.
With the help of simple and simple tips the country house will be ready for operation in less than a month. Those who do not have enough time for construction can contact a construction company, where they will offer to build a house for a turnkey summer house at an affordable price.
A few words about the interior
No matter how the house looks from the outside, inside the country house must meet all the requirements of our time. Gone are the days when a cottage in the country was used for cooking and lodging for the night.
Rest in the country - first of all, comfort and organization inside the house. There are many budget ways to satisfy the most desirable interior solutions.
Country - rustic style in the interior. Here you can not do without cabinets and shelves, curtained with curtains with embroidery. Crocheted napkins, tablecloths and rugs from old clothes will look good.
nature lovers and country life who did not have time to acquire at least a frame garden house 6 by 6 ,
but those who have a plot of land usually dream of at least some kind of refuge in their possessions. Making a dwelling with my own hands frightens most people. But in vain. Today you can find a sea of \u200b\u200binformation about step-by-step construction from experienced craftsmen. It will not only give confidence, relieving anxiety and fear. Using the recommendations of professionals, you can carry out all the necessary manipulations competently and in the proper order, significantly saving on hiring a working team.
Of course, it is not bad to use the services of specialists. They guarantee (most often) quality, besides, the terms will be noticeably reduced. construction works. But if the budget is limited and you want, or there is a desire to try yourself in such an interesting business, nothing prevents you from rolling up your sleeves and building a garden house cheaply. An additional bonus is that for yourself everything is usually done exactly as it is imagined and dreamed of. Sometimes hired workers find it difficult to explain their vision.
Then the walls are assembled from the timber, fastening the joints with dowels. Between the crowns is laid. In general, insulation is desirable for each successive layer. For an economy class house, a tourniquet or tow is usually used. Next, work begins on.
Roof
For rafters, a board with a section of 150x25 or 100x50 mm is used. You will also need roofing material with glassine. To facilitate the task, racks one and a half meters in size are placed in the center of the building, and a beam is already attached to them. On the resulting structure are located.
The device of the roof of a one-story garden house on the frame can take as little as one day. The type of specific roofing material is selected individually, according to one's own capabilities and taste. Do not forget about the climate of the area where the future homeowner lives. Sheets of ordinary galvanized iron are often used.
Finishing
Use of glassine The finished frame is necessarily covered with glassine, and only the selected finishing material is mounted on it. It can be different, in accordance with the budget and preferences of the owner. Looks great, which is attached with self-tapping screws.
One-story frame garden houses, trimmed on the outside with wooden clapboard or look attractive. The resulting structure is well suited for both wooden and plastic windows. Naturally, doors made of wood or imitation of this material will look. indoors can also cover . And you can sheathe them with drywall, which is then covered with paint or pasted over with wallpaper. The floor is made of boards.
Approximate cost
Garden house projects
Results
Neat frame garden house , made by your caring hands, it is convenient to use for permanent or temporary residence. It is spacious enough to store inventory and household supplies.
It has enough space for receiving and accommodating guests. And if in the future it is planned to erect a grandiose structure, then it can become the place of residence and basing of an entire construction team.
A small garden house 4x6 with your own hands, without the involvement of workers, is not so difficult to build. The main thing is a responsible attitude to construction, attention and patience. And, of course, strict adherence to the recommendations and compliance with the requirements. And very soon your land will be transformed, and will take on the appearance of a real household.
Since you are reading this article, a vacation outside the city on your site is attractive to you. A country house for this, of course, is necessary. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. For the sake of saving not only money and their labor, but also land. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands, perhaps easier, faster, easier and cheaper. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house allows you to wait out a long bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and the design of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.
Where to start
The first question that needs to be solved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where - it is already known, the site will not be moved anywhere. According to the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, a ready-made project is developed or selected for it, and then - estimates, purchases, and for business. We will start with the choice of material.
What to build from?
Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: it is very difficult to build them on your own. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal ground movements and therefore require a foundation no less reliable than a fully buried tape one (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the bottom of the tape). The foundation of full penetration must stand to give its own shrinkage, at least from the end of summer to full spring warmth next year. The same endurance is required for insulated slab foundations, for example. swedish plate. There is, however, a type of foundation for wooden houses, which does not require a technological break (see below), but the timber or log structure itself must shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. So a log or log house will be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles / sq. m) and difficult to build on your own.
The same situation occurs with brick houses and . Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be appropriate only in very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built 2-storey; brick and lumber technologies allow an unprepared, but attentive and accurate builder to build a house on 2 floors. Examples of the layout of compact 2-storey brick and timber houses are shown in Fig.:
Note: it is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. The construction of a country house from foam / gas blocks makes sense if the cottage is visited all year round - no additional insulation is needed and there will be less heating costs.
The simplest and quick ways the buildings small house- assembly from a ready-made panel house kit or structurally insulated panels (SIP). A 20x20-foot (6x6 m) prefabricated house is set up in a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average mental ability trained according to the instructions for the kit. No joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles / sq. m. Without foundation.
A SIP house will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rubles/sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held on locks between the panels. In order for a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have a lot of internal partitions from the same SIP with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.
So we come to the conclusion: to build a country house, so that it is fast, simple and inexpensive, you need it from wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.
Project
An inexpensive garden and / or compact country house is best built according to a standard project; see below for essential construction details. A ready-made free project of a country house is quite easy to find using any search engine. Or for a fee - detailed standard project garden house for 300 rubles. find really on the relevant sites.
How to choose easier and cheaper
However, when sorting through projects, it is necessary to take into account some significant circumstances, namely, the cost, duration and complexity of the zero cycle, i.e. earthworks and laying the foundation. It's the frosty heaving of the soil. With seasonal shifts, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll over in waves. Summer cottages are cut on the soils of various, but possessing one common property- sufficient own connectivity, otherwise no one needs such a dacha. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface, frost heaving of the soil is reduced mainly to raising/reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight heel.On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. Here the square-cube law, well known to technology (and stubbornly overlooked by amateurs), operates here. It is easy to test it by experience: glue cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple one and the other. The third factor is the intrinsic cohesion of the soil is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.
Without going into further details, we will immediately report the conclusion: if a small wooden country house in terms of fit into a circle of a certain diameter, then on ordinary soils of garden plots it can be built on an unburied foundation, which is much faster, easier and cheaper. What circle should the project fit into? wooden house in plan, so that it can be built on a non-buried foundation on soils up to and including medium-heavy ones, is shown in fig. It all depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more square the house, the better it plays out seasonal ground movements. Therefore, it is better to build “tramway” houses for narrow sections, without looking closely, on the foundation of a normal depth. But if the ratio of the “sticks” of a T-shaped house lies within 1 Note: the veranda/terrace is included in the projection of the house if it is rigidly connected with its design. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or are hinged to it are excluded from the projection of the house in the plan. We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. We only recall that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils, except for non-rocky ones, it is necessary to lay a normally buried tape or TISE foundation. The slab foundation with insulation “settles down” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to split. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, it is possible to lay a foundation on geo-screws (see below) with a steel grillage. An unburied foundation for a compact country house is the easiest and cheapest way to assemble a columnar foundation from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. Blocks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; top across the bottom. Thus, the column is obtained in terms of 400x400 mm. Pit pits for posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15 + 15 cm falls on the anti-rock sand and gravel pillow. It makes no sense to deepen the columns of blocks by more than 20 cm: the dressing of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the frost heaving forces will tear the columns. The number of rows of blocks in the column is made more than 2 if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. a week. The recessed foundation of a compact house is often, following the model of large buildings, piled on bored piles in soft roofing material formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are taken to the pile shell, which makes it possible to compensate for the height difference along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast small-sized construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - it must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring. Note: there is no point in laying the TISE foundation for a light compact house - the "caps" of the TISE piles normally work in the ground only under a sufficient weight load from the building. Of the small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one is capable of creating one. The best option for a recessed foundation for a compact house is on geoscrews. Geo-screws are a type of shortened screw piles especially for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, ground screws are not designed for swampy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a self-made tape foundation, because. ground screws are not cheap in themselves, but for a small house this is not so scary, since few screws are required. A geo-screw for soils of low and medium density, according to the principle of keeping it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a furniture confirmatory screw and also looks like it, see Fig.: The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Those and other ground screws can be used on soils up to excessively heaving. On the heads of geoscrews, you can either lay the wooden lower trim of the structure, or mount a steel grillage. For information on how a wooden house is built on screw piles, see, for example. track. video: The advantages of ground screws for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are huge: Note: if you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them about whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil. We come to the very essence: what kind of simple country house will be built cheaper and most likely? In ascending order of cost, complexity and time of construction, as well as potentially aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are next. way: KUNG is an abbreviation for a Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Size. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War and, thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung change house from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and putting it on posts, concrete supports of grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone pillow (so that weeds do not germinate and annoying living creatures do not start). The foundation for the kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle. The kung has only one drawback as a country house: a utilitarian appearance, which any designer's attempts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages: It is better to look for a kung for a country house from ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 cars (see fig.): they have a flat floor and it is easier to put them on posts due to small or no recesses for wheel niches. You need 6 columns (it can be brick folded dry): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and easier to convert into housing than Ural and KAMAZ ones. Note: do not take non-standardized "booths" from the ancient ZiS's and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and insulation is no good. The width of the kung is standard according to the zero auto-dimension (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. laying a deep foundation. For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-slot kung (two-slot), on the left in fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. Kung change houses (top left and right in the figure) already provide normal habitability for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung from old hardware communications. There are also sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some application of your hands from such a kung, you get not a house, but a candy, at the bottom right in fig. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance inside) compartment for the autonomous power supply (BEA) gas unit: a mini-toilet with a shower is placed in its place. Removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get a place for a gas stove for 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself, as if on purpose, is intended for garden tools, planting material, etc., and with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, there are side windows in the hardware communications kungs, which can not be said about all kungs - military cabins. Chalet means hut, and what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. A country house-hut is durable almost the same as a kung, because. its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small house-hut (approx. up to 4x6 m) can be placed on a non-buried foundation on any soil, except for excessively heaving. Materials for a hut house are required 1.5-2 times less than for a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimum set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage inherited from the ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any finish in any landscape, see fig.: There are few drawbacks to the chalet. The house-hut retains all its advantages up to a size in terms of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small-sized hut, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that's all. In America and Canada, single hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare farmer, who remembers), on the left and in the center in the figure: Arrangement of a single-seat house-hut - a shelter and a 3-seat country house But a house-hut of only 3x3 m in plan can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. In both cases, there are few heating costs, because. the relative area of heat loss of a house-hut is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your dacha is commercially inhabited from the first spring heat to the winter cold, then the hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung. The construction of a hut house with dimensions in terms of up to 6x4 m is carried out step by step. way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins): The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason why few build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw more”. Drawings of a house-hut 3x3 m for two or three are given in Fig.: The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, as well as intermediate frames, is timber 150x75. Firstly, on the facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tightening (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge run, a ridge beam of the same section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and upper straps (longitudinal stiffeners) from the same beam. Longitudinal and transverse bonds are connected by a half-tree tie-in. Those. using the example of a 4x6 m house, it is already clear how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house grow with an increase in its size. Note: on the lower screed, 2 more ends of the beam 100x75 are visible on the sides of the window. They are supported by internal partitions. The door frame on the other façade extends up to tightening and is made of timber 75x150; the lower screed of this facade is split. If this house is without a base, the window frame is similarly performed. In the general concept of a bungalow, this is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, a “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because. it is spacious, well ventilated, does not overheat by the Sun, and in construction it is no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive. However, today little is known to professional builders outside the tropics that the bungalow is also a kind of building technology. Bungalow huts built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the wilds of Russia, the north of the USA and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still habitable. A house built using bungalow technology is easily recognizable by its 2-layer sheathing of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. on right. Bungalow, as a technology of wooden construction, combines elements of half-timbered structures and frame with working sheathing. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a footprint. advantages: The disadvantages of building using bungalow technology are, firstly, the increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of openings: the outer skin boards need to be cut in place to fit the trim, otherwise pockets are formed - moisture traps. Bungalows as shelters are generally more popular than huts due to better habitability. In a bungalow, you do not have to climb up to sleep and stick out to eat. The device of a bungalow-type shelter is shown in the figure: Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelters The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, an unburied strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If columnar or pile, then 12 supports are needed: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical rack) on the others. This house can be extended in length up to 3-3.5 m. Then, if you do not lengthen acc. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies. The “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation with dimensions of 4x5.875 m is, of course, more complicated in plan (see the next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of "real" recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but already for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev. the option is excellent also on strongly heaving soils. The main features of the bungalow as a building technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from a bar from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is given by the sheathing of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use, because under each joint of sheets, lining racks and valleys are needed. Bungalow construction schemes are given in the figure: The truss floor structures are not conventionally shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled in a half-tree and into a spike, and the spikes of the racks are on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners even without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the scheme for reinforcing the corners in the center in fig. It is unacceptable to use steel corners, linings, etc. in this case! For the Old Testament "oakness" you have to pay with labor. Sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (bulges of annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: inner inside, outer out. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood, the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of "humpbacks" it will split and the whole house will weaken. All boards are attached to the frame along short (end) edges with three (not in pairs!) Nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also fastened along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or with a snake (zigzag) in increments of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along short edges with pairs of fasteners; long - in a row with the same step. The assembly of the power frame of the bungalow is a very important stage of work. And laborious, because you can’t hammer staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were placed in wedging. The frame of the house using bungalow technology is assembled in the next. order: The frame mini-house does not have any features compared to the large residential one; the scheme of its device is given in Fig.: The order of construction is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a "classic" frame house 6x4 m:
The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut house and a bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: a simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig. Also, the design of the frame house is very plastic. On the one hand, it forgives rather gross mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative lovers a certain scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about the construction of a small frame house-shelter:
It is only necessary to add to this plot that the comments of the audience about the insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive out” the dew point once and for all outside, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used to prevent condensation in the insulation layer and further inside: EPPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) . The crossbar of the roof (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a feature. It is determined by its small size, and, as a result, the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the absence in it (forgive the clericalism), put a load-bearing partition (internal main wall). To hold the latter, a fully connected foundation is needed; at least - tape normal depth. Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof beam) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b): In the first, the rack of the truss truss rests on a transverse screed beam, and in a layered truss, on a load-bearing partition; split tie. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the roof trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the well-known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like according to skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge timber - 100x75 and Mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame Mauerlat, a beam of the upper trim can directly serve.
Foundation
Unburied
buried
Geoscrews
Video: installation of a frame house
What house to build?
When not to excess
Chalet
How to build a chalet
Bungalow and… bungalow
Bungalow like bungalow
Bungalow as technology
Skeletons
Video: country house 4 × 6 using frame technology
Video: do-it-yourself mini-frame house
In conclusion about the roof
