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How to make an emphasis for a circular saw yourself. Making a parallel stop and other useful devices for circulars. Preparation for work

When working with a manual circular saw, the question of the straightness of the cut is acute. There are two concepts for ensuring a straight line:

Fastening on the sawing machine (workbench) of the actual circular.

In this design, the hand tool is permanently attached to the table, and the workpiece moves along the guide. The cutting quality is at its best, but there are serious limitations on the size of the material being processed.

The workpiece is fixed permanently, and a guide ruler is installed for a hand-held circular saw.

In this design, the size of the workpiece to be cut can be any, the main thing is to ensure a strong fastening of the device for circular saw. Manufacturers hand tool take care of users, and offer various ready-made devices for sale.

Industrially manufactured guides are comfortable and safe. As a rule, they are equipped with an accurate marking ruler, some allow you to set the cutting angle. The material is selected in such a way as to exclude wedging and play during the movement of the tool.

The pair, consisting of a groove and a runner, is protected from the ingress of cutting products and does not need lubrication.

However, all these kits are expensive, and many home craftsmen make a rail for.

Consider options that were independently invented and created by homegrown "Kulibins".

IMPORTANT! A hand-held circular saw is a source of increased injury, therefore, in the manufacture homemade devices based on it, safety precautions should be followed.

The easiest option is a cutting stop

The device is actively used when cutting with a jigsaw.

It works quite efficiently, but it is limited for hand-held circular saws. The tire is pressed against the workpiece with a clamp. The bracket protrudes above the work surface both from below and from above.

As a result, we get restrictions on the length of the cut. The circular engine rests against the clamp, and you have to cut in two steps. In this case, the quality of the edge deteriorates, a step may form.

Any master will tell you that a high-quality cut is obtained when the saw moves continuously from the beginning to the end of the workpiece.
In industrial designs, fasteners are placed outside the ruler, and do not interfere with the free passage of the tool.

A homemade guide is made from a finished tool of a different profile, which has a low cost. We buy a long aluminum rule (emphasis on and) for plaster or screed.

Its cost is 3-4 hundred rubles. The tool is a profile of a complex shape with a smooth groove on the reverse side for adjusting the position of the handles. Clamping fastening, on hexagonal nuts. Not suitable for our purposes.

Parallel emphasis for a circular saw with your own hands can be made one of the options according to the proposed drawings.

What is common in a homemade guide- this is a base that moves along the plane of the table relative to the saw blade, which is made of standard aluminum rolled products (pressed profile of rectangular unequal corner section made of aluminum and magnesium alloys, profile number - 411158)

The dimensions of the shelves of the angle used in the section (mm):

Length - 70, thickness - 6
width - 41, thickness - 10

FIRST PERFORMANCE

The length of the corner is 450 (mm). In the wide shelf of the corner, we drill three through holes with a diameter of eight millimeters on both sides, with the same pitch between the centers. We press two pins 8x18 into the extreme holes.

Between the pins, from the bottom of the table, an M8 bolt is inserted so that its threaded part goes into the groove, and the bolt head rests against the bottom plane of the table.

On top of the table, an M8 bolt is clamped with an M8 wing nut or a regular one.

How does a rip fence for a circular saw work?

1. Loosen both wing nuts.
2.
3. Tighten the wing nuts.

The movement of the corner is carried out in the direction of the grooves. The pins are the guides of the stop and allow you to move it relative to the saw blade without distortion (parallel).

VERSION SECOND

The length of the corner is 700 (mm). Along the edges of the corner, at the ends, we drill holes for the M5 thread and cut it. According to the drawing, we will make two guides from metal.

We attach them to the ends of the corner with screws with a cylindrical head for a hexagon (M5x25 GOST 11738-84). Screw M5 screws into the thread.

How does the rip fence for the circular saw of the proposed version work?

1. Loosen the wing screws.
2. We move the corner in the right direction relative to the saw blade.
3. Tighten the wing screws.

The movement of the corner is carried out in the direction of the end surfaces of the table. Guides fixed at the ends of the corner allow you to move it relative to the saw blade without distortions (parallel).

On the surface of the table, draw a markup (ruler) to visually fix the position of the homemade guide.

In the next article, we will dwell in more detail on the working body (saw blade) and electric.


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Circular and parallel stop, perhaps the most important device on the circular table. Therefore, I decided to take this project with all responsibility. I don't spend a lot of time sanding and shaping without the need for fillets on fixtures, cut it out, glue it, screw it together, and that's it. In my opinion, extra beauty is not always appropriate, but strength is always needed. When I work on complex projects, I break them down into smaller components and work on them individually. Having at its disposal a thin aluminum parallel stop (photo on the right), it also had a number of inconveniences. The trouble is that for each new cut it is necessary to change the size of the stop setting, for this, moving the stop, we take into account the dimensions at the point where the workpiece was cut and at the exit point of the cut in relation to the saw blade, then we fix it with two handles. It's inconvenient and takes a lot of time.

Circular and parallel stop step-by-step manufacturing:

Step 1: Making the stop.

Cut three strips of laminated chipboard 1.1 m long and 8 cm wide, and then assemble them together to form a U-profile. By internal dimensions profile, make five blank inserts for rigidity and insert into the inside of the profile, they will create a square section necessary for the stop. The advantage of this stop is the possibility of using it on both sides of the saw blade (photo on the left).

Step 2: Making a guide channel for the stop.

The guide channel for the stop is made of two rails, has the shape of a U-shaped profile and is bolted to the end of the circular table, perpendicular to the saw blade.

Step 3: Assembling the Stop - Part 1

So, the circular and parallel stop now have a guide channel. Putting everything together, using a small piece of MDF in the shape of an inverted "T", it will be screwed on the back of the stop and inserted into the guide channel. The width of the channel directly depends on the thickness of the T-shaped MDF blank, which will ensure tight placement of the T-shaped piece in the channel.

Step 4: Assembling the Stop - Part 2

Align the positions of the fence using a metal ruler, this will ensure that the fence is parallel to the saw blade. Connect, firmly, together the stop and the T-shaped mounting piece. Working hard, I realized hardwoods wood is better than MDF, replacing the MDF T-shaped took almost one day. Any discrepancy in the ready settings will lead to changes in the general settings, be prepared for this.

Step 5: Stop Locking Mechanism.

In fixing the stop, slots for the original stop are used. The locking mechanism is simple: a threaded bolt and nut, a hole in the bottom strip of the rip fence, a wooden washer. By tightening the bolt, the block pulls the stop down to the tabletop and clamps it very hard.

It is difficult to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is the longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

  • base;
  • sawing table;
  • parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel emphasis.

So, the parallel stop is the movable part of the machine, which is the guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop, because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw curve may jam.

In addition, the rip fence of a circular saw must be of a fairly rigid construction, as the artisan exerts force by pressing the workpiece against the fence, and if the fence is allowed to move, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

Exist various designs parallel stops, depending on the methods of its attachment to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

Rip fence design Advantages and disadvantages
Two-point attachment (front and back) Advantages:· Pretty rigid construction · Allows you to place the stop in any place of the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· For fastening, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine around and fix the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and is a significant drawback with frequent readjustment.
Single point attachment (front) Advantages:· Less rigid design than when fixing the fence in two points · Allows you to place the fence in any place of the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive in order to provide the necessary rigidity of the structure.
Fastening in the groove of the circular table Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw: Sophisticated design, Weakened design of the circular table, Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, Quite a complicated design for self-manufacturing, especially from wood (made only from metal).

In this article, we will analyze the option of creating a design of a parallel stop for a circular with one attachment point.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed in the process.

The following tools will be used for work:

  1. Circular saw or can be used.
  2. Screwdriver.
  3. Bulgarian (Angle grinder).
  4. Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

In the process, you will also need the following materials:

  1. Plywood.
  2. Massive pine.
  3. Steel tube with an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
  4. Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
  5. Two washers with an increased area and an inner diameter of 6-10 mm.
  6. Self-tapping screws.
  7. Joiner's glue.

The design of the stop of the circular machine

The whole structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning - relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is a complex structure that includes a set of parts.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure structural strength and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

  • The base of the transverse part;
  1. Longitudinal part
    , 2 pcs.);
  • The base of the longitudinal part;
  1. clamp
  • Cam handle

Making a circular

Preparation of blanks

A couple of things to note:

  • planar longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

At 22 mm, we drill a hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this with drilling, but you can just fill it with a nail.

In the circular saw used for work, a home-made movable carriage is used from (or, as an option, a false table can be made “in haste”), which is not very a pity to deform or spoil. We drive a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the hat.

As a result, we get an even cylindrical workpiece, which must be processed with a belt or eccentric grinder.

We make the handle - this is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Cross section of the guide

We proceed to the manufacture of the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

  • The base of the transverse part;
  • Upper transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
  • Lower transverse clamping bar (with oblique end);
  • End (fixing) bar of the transverse part.

Upper cross clamp

Both clamping bars - upper and lower have one end not straight 90º, but inclined ("oblique") with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when sawing blanks.

The upper transverse clamping bar is used to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing it against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the move and remove all defects that prevent smooth sliding, in addition, it is necessary to check the tightness of the inclined edges; gaps and cracks should not be.

With a snug fit, the strength of the connection (fixing the guide) will be maximum.

Assembly of the transverse whole part

Longitudinal part of the guide

The entire longitudinal part consists of:

    , 2 pcs.);
  • The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), as well as denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, it remains only to ennoble the edges. This is done with edging tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) And understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

And also additionally fix with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to observe the 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of the transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! it is important to observe the angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Guide rail installation

It's time to fix our entire structure on a circular machine. To do this, you need to attach the bar of the transverse stop to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out with glue and self-tapping screws.

... and we consider the work finished - the do-it-yourself circular saw is ready.

Video

The video on which this material was made.

A manual circular electric saw, which is simply called, is a convenient tool for cutting and cutting lumber.

Included with it are usually supplied devices that help the master in his work.

But the same devices can be made or improved with your own hands. Yes, and work experience will sooner or later lead to the appearance of completely home-made devices (as they are called), which, for all their simplicity, can greatly facilitate sawing and save time.

Parallel stop

Conventional rip fence for a circular saw - good example how a small addition can bring great benefits. Almost every hand-held circular saw is equipped with a parallel stop for longitudinal cutting of a given width. This is a really useful tool.

The standard stop has one drawback. For safety reasons, it is set to values ​​that allow it to cut with a width of less than 20–25 mm. This is done so that the stop does not interfere with the movement of the protective casing of the saw. But it is enough to attach a wooden block to the parallel bar of the regular stop with screws - and its capabilities will increase, while the minimum cutting width will not be limited in any way.

Note! We must remember about safety - when making cuts less than 15 mm, the bar does not allow the protective cover to close the saw blade.

Stop for transverse and angled cuts

A cross cut device is also often used. With it, boards are cut quickly and accurately at an angle of 90 °. Such an emphasis is also used for trimming boards. Its base is a sheet of plywood 10 mm thick. A guide bar or rail with a height of at least 20 mm is fixed on it with glue or self-tapping screws. An emphasis is attached to the underside of the base, perpendicular to the guide and made of the same bar.

The excess part of the base (from the guide to the saw blade) is cut off. Since this distance is different for each model of a manual circular, the fixture is always made individually. It is usually attached to the material being processed with clamps.

Advanced craftsmen make their fasteners from wooden washers, one of which has the shape of an eccentric. The clamp is carried out with a wing nut on the screw. Such a clamping device allows you to very quickly fix the stop on lumber of different widths.

If you install the same bar on the other side of the guide, but fixed at an angle of 45 ° to the first one, and then also cut off part of the base at 45 ° with a saw, you will get an angular universal stop for cuts at both 45 ° and 90 °. A more versatile design of the corner stop will be obtained if the bar rotates. And observance of the angle can be monitored by the protractor, fixed on top. It should be noted that making a do-it-yourself protractor for a circular is a more difficult task.

saddle stop

If you have to saw a lot of identical bars with a circular saw, then you should spend time making a simple saddle stop. Its use will more than return the spent minutes. The saddle stop works especially effectively when sawing thick bars, for which the disc requires two cuts from different sides.

Emphasis-saddle has a U-shape. The base is a board 25 mm thick, its width is exactly equal to the thickness of the sawn timber.

Side surfaces of 10 mm plywood are attached to the base. The width of the sidewalls must be greater than the width of the cant in order to support the platform of the circular until the saw blade comes into contact with the cant.

The saddle is put on the beam at a distance from the cut marking, corresponding to the working distance to the saw blade, and is pressed against the beam with clamps through the sidewalls. Using the sidewall as a stop for the saw platform, cutting is carried out. If the thickness of the beam is such that one cut is not enough, then it is turned over and another cut is made. The position of the stop does not change in any way.

Guide bar

For cutting large and long sheets of lumber on the table, a long hand-made guide rail for a circular saw will be useful.

The basis in this case is (8–10 mm) plywood strip with a length exceeding the dimensions of the sheet to be cut. The tire itself can be wooden (a bar 15–20 mm thick) or metal from a U-shaped profile. The tire is attached to the base with glue or screws. On one side of it should remain a narrow edge of the base, sufficient for fastening to the sheet with clamps. On the other hand, the first cut is made with a saw along the base. After that, the edge of the base will exactly coincide with the passage of the circular disc. When working, it is combined with the markings on the sheet, the stop is fixed and the sheet is sawn.

Edge stop

This is already a rather complicated device that requires time and precision in manufacturing. It allows you to cut parallel to the edge of the material being cut. It will be useful to make a drawing of it before starting work, so as not to miss the size. In fact, such an emphasis is included in the circular saw kit, but its short length does not always provide an even cut. Large size and desired strength require the base of the stop to be made of plywood with a thickness of at least 15 mm. From it you can also make a stubborn bar.

Steps for making a stop:

  • at the base, longitudinal grooves are made for the dowels;
  • hardwood dowels are mounted on a thrust bar;
  • between the longitudinal grooves, another through groove is made to secure the thrust bar during operation;
  • a hole is cut in the base for the circular saw blade;
  • restrictive bars are placed on the sides of the base for the installation of a circular and clamps are provided for its secure fastening.

When the stop is placed on the material being processed, the stop bar moves in the grooves of the base to the required distance and is fixed through the through slot with a clamping wing screw. In order not to suffer every time with a ruler, you can fix it (or a piece of tape measure) on the basis of the stop along the guide grooves.

There are such small devices that even a tool is shameful to consider. At the same time, they are great for cutting. These are the tricks of experienced masters.

Setting bars

The simplest detail that facilitates the installation of any stop and a marking guide is a bar of small section. Cuts are applied on it, the distance between which is equal to the segment from the end of the saw sole to the saw blade. Two of these bars will help to install any guides quickly and accurately at the required distance from the marking line. It remains only to fix the guide.

Pull-out protection

Protection can be any bar, the width corresponding to the thickness of the workpiece being cut. If it is fixed at the exit point of the saw blade from the material being processed, it will act as a limiter and serve as protection against tearing and chipping.

These devices are not limited to a set useful homemade, which make it easier to work with a hand-held circular saw. These are the easiest to make. Others require time and skill. But craftsmen even make such a device as a protractor for a circular with their own hands. There would be a desire.