Do-it-yourself cages for outdoor rabbits. Convenient cages for rabbits: making your own. Grown-ups and adults

21.11.2019

Farming and animal husbandry has always been a profitable occupation, especially if you do it throughout the year. Rabbits of various breeds are especially popular among animal breeders - they are easy to keep, they are unpretentious, they eat simple and affordable feed. The only difficulty is that their maintenance requires cages, which, in order to save money, will have to be made by hand.

Is it necessary to keep rabbits in cages?

Rabbits intended for home and industrial breeding are undemanding to the area on which they will be kept. This is largely due to their behavioral characteristics - in the wild, animals use burrows as a place to rest and sleep. small size.

The duration of daylight hours, temperature and humidity play a significant role greater value. These indicators directly affect both the behavior and health of the animal, as well as the dynamics of its growth and weight gain. A temperature of 12–18 o C and an air humidity of 60–75% are optimal for keeping most breeds.

In conditions household Rabbits are usually kept in two ways:

in isolation - in cages or sheds;
freely - in open-air cages or walking.

The cellular method allows you to clearly control the amount of food intake of the animal, thereby reducing feed consumption and preventing overeating of the animal. In addition, the content in the cages helps to control the mating of rabbits. Breeding of animals occurs clearly and according to the plan that the breeder foresaw.

In addition to this, the cellular method helps to avoid infection of the entire population of rabbits due to the ingress of any infection to one or more individuals in the herd. The content in the aviary is most often used on European farms. This method is as close as possible to natural conditions, when the animal itself equips its own home. Unlike the cage method, the aviary method is more complicated and requires not only a large area of the site, but also constant monitoring of the livestock.

It is ideal if the breeder combines these two methods, but only professionals who have been doing this for decades can achieve such conditions in modern realities. For novice breeders, we recommend using the cellular method of keeping, as the most simple and effective.

Depending on the climatic conditions in the region where it is planned to engage in animal husbandry, cages for keeping rabbits can be located directly on the street or in utility rooms. Therefore, taking into account the location of the cells, they can be classified into three types:

Some owners have two types of cages at their disposal. Some are always located in the utility room and have a convenient mesh bottom system that allows you to quickly and conveniently clean them. The second ones are erected along the fence or wall of the building and are a winter version with a canopy.

This option has a lot of advantages, but not all breeders are available, since the content a large number animals requires a considerable area of the site. Therefore, for most people living in central Russia and trying their hand at animal husbandry, it is recommended to keep rabbits exclusively on the street.

Year-round keeping of rabbits on the street allows animals to develop immunity to various infections and diseases. And also Fresh air favorably affects the formation of a healthy and lush hairline.

Cell types

Conventionally, cages for rabbits can be divided into two large groups. The first includes cages that differ from each other in the type of construction, which determines their size and ease of use for the animal breeder. The second is the cells used for a specific purpose to solve certain problems.

By design

Depending on the design, cages for rabbits are divided into the following types:

Often you can find combined cage options, when an aviary for walking is attached to the classic single-tier version. Usually, for two cages or sheds, an area no larger than 200x100x60 cm is enough.

For multi-tiered structures, it is possible to arrange an exit point directly to the harvest or the ground through special manholes. But this option is used extremely rarely, since factory cages are not equipped with such a system, and not every rabbit breeder can make it on his own.

By appointment

By purpose, cages for rabbits are classified into the following types:

Video: a review of a two-tier street cage for rabbits

Necessary materials

To make cages for okrol, young and adult rabbits, you will need the following material:

edged board - 30x100x3000 or 30x150x300 mm in size. Necessary for sheathing the side and rear walls of the cage. Can be used for sheathing a portable mother liquor;
wooden bars - 40x40x3000 or 50x50x3000 mm in size. It will be needed for the manufacture of the frame, legs and other elements of the cell. If desired, you can use rectangular bars;
To assemble the cage frame, an edged bar with a section of 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 is used.
moisture resistant plywood- 9 or 12 mm thick. It will be required in the manufacture of the floor in the cage, wall cladding and other solid elements. It is better to use sheets of 150 × 3000 mm;
steel pipes - with a section of 20 mm. Rarely used, but with the ability to work with welding machine allow you to assemble a strong and durable frame. It is not recommended to use for floor assembly and the manufacture of other elements that will come into contact with the body of animals;
steel mesh - galvanized fine mesh with a mesh size of 15 × 15 or 20 × 20 mm. It is necessary for the manufacture of doors, covering some walls and constricting a place for dumping waste;
For sheathing walls and doors in a cage, it is better to use a galvanized mesh with a cell of 20 × 20 mm
galvanized sheet - with a zinc coating with a thickness of 120 microns. It will be required in the manufacture of roofing, floor cladding and other elements in some types of cages. It is better not to use for roofing in street cells;
corrugated slate is a traditional roofing material. For facing the roof of street cells, it is better to use old slate, which will significantly reduce total cost designs.

To assemble the cage frame, galvanized self-tapping screws 70 mm long are used. Fastening boards and plywood takes place on self-tapping screws 30–50 mm long. If desired, galvanized nails of the appropriate length can be used. Fastening doors, feeders and other rotary elements is carried out on ordinary furniture or door hinges.

Cell dimensions and drawing up a drawing

Before proceeding with the manufacture of a cage for rabbits, you need to decide on its parameters, which are selected taking into account the age, size and breed of the animal. We talked about large rabbit cages above. After the parameters are determined, it will be necessary to draw up a draft of the future cell in the form of a drawing.

The table below can be used to determine the average cage size for normal rabbits. It indicates the range of length, width and height for cages, taking into account the age of the animal.

Table: cage parameters for rabbits depending on their age

In order to create a drawing of a future structure, you can use both regular office paper and graph paper. On paper, you should schematically depict the frame and the main elements of the cell while maintaining proportions. Opposite each element, you need to indicate its size in any convenient bit depth.

Schematic representation of a single-tier cage for rabbits from bars and boards

As an example, consider a few drawings that can be found on the Internet. The first drawing shows a single-tier wooden cage. The frame of this cage can be assembled from a cut bar 50 × 50 mm. For sheathing the frame, a 30 × 100 mm edged board is used.

The design of a single-tier cage consists of two compartments separated by a partition in the form of a V-shaped feeder made of mesh. On the sides of the cage are solid doors on hinges. If desired, the doors can also be made of mesh.

Drawing of the most popular cage design with a V-shaped feeder

The second drawing shows a two-tier cage with a frame made of edged timber. The front wall of the cage is made in the form of a door made of a bar and a mesh, and grain feeders are located on the sides of the structure. Compartments for keeping rabbits are also separated by a feeder. A photograph of a cage made according to this scheme can be seen in the "Construction of a two-tier cage" section.

Building cages for rabbits with your own hands

All the options for rabbit cages described below can be made by hand without much experience with building tools. In addition to materials for making cells, it is necessary to prepare a hacksaw for wood or a jigsaw, a screwdriver, a hammer, a planer, metal scissors, pliers, a construction tape measure and a pencil.

How to build a three-tiered cage according to the Zolotukhin principle

Three-tier cage according to N.I. Zolotukhina can have a different size, which is selected based on the size of the competitive breed of rabbits and the free space where the structure is planned to be located.

Up to 6 adults can live in one cage according to Zolotukhin technology

In our example, we will describe the technology for assembling a three-tiered cage 190 cm high, 140 cm wide and 60 cm deep. This multi-section design will be enough to contain six adult rabbits.

Cell construction technology according to the Zolotukhin principle consists of the following:

From a cut bar 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm, it is necessary to make 12 long and short blanks. The length of short blanks - 540 mm, long - 1340 mm. From plywood, you will need to prepare 3 canvases 1340 × 480 mm.
From the prepared blanks, 6 frame frames are assembled. For assembly, a screwdriver and galvanized self-tapping screws 50–70 mm long are used. When assembling, smaller bars are placed between longer pieces. Fasteners are twisted into the end of short blanks. The number of fasteners - 2 pieces for each workpiece.
For the installation of frame frames, you will need to make 4 blanks from a 30 × 100 mm board. The length of the blanks is 2250 mm. The resulting boards are laid on the floor, after which a frame is placed on them with the end side and fixed with 2 self-tapping screws on each side. By a similar principle, boards are attached from the opposite side. The step between the tiers depends on the height of the cells, but not less than 40 cm. When fastening, it should be borne in mind that there should be a gap of 10-15 cm between the tiers for the installation of pallets.
Drawing of a three-tier cage with a mother liquor and a V-shaped feeder
Next, the assembled frame is placed in a vertical position. A plywood sheet prepared earlier is laid on the support frame of each tier. At the front corners, small spacers 1.5–2 cm high are placed under the plywood. The plywood is attached directly to the frame using self-tapping screws 30 mm long. Mounting step - 25–30 cm.
Spacers will provide a slope of the floor to back wall. For their manufacture, you can use an edged board or the remains of the bars. To do this, it is necessary to saw off a workpiece 10–15 cm long and cut it diagonally. If possible, you can use a hacksaw for wood or a planer.
A steel mesh must be fixed to the gap between the plywood and the frame along the back wall. An appropriately sized piece of mesh is prepared using metal shears. Next, the mesh is attached on the back side. For this, metal brackets and small screws are used.
To strengthen the cage frame, you can use a steel profile and corners
To make a partition, which will also play the role of a feeder, you will need to prepare 6 blanks from a 50 × 50 mm bar. This can be done using a tape measure, marking the center along the horizontal frame guide. Then from the center it is necessary to measure the distance to the upper points at an angle of about 25 or about 30.
One of the ends of the blanks must be sawn off at an appropriate angle. After that, the resulting bars are attached to the frame using self-tapping screws 70 mm long. Between the installed V-shaped frame, a mesh with a cell of 25 × 25 mm is stretched. To fit the mesh, metal scissors or pliers are used.
The back and side walls of the cage are sheathed with a board of 30 × 100 mm. If desired, they can be sheathed with plywood, but it will cost a little more. If the cage is going to be used outdoors, then the sheathing is carried out from the inside. This will make it possible to insulate the structure.
The bottom for cages is made of slats or mesh
After sheathing, proceed to the manufacture of doors. So that the doors have the correct rectangular shape, you will need to prepare 6 blanks from the bars, which are fixed in a vertical position, stepping back from the feeder 20–30 cm. After that, the space between the feeder and the blank is covered with a net.
For the manufacture of doors, a bar 40 × 40 mm is used. To do this, it is necessary to measure the distance from the screwed workpiece to the side wall, as well as the height between the floor and the ceiling. Then prepare 4 bars for each door. The bars are fastened together with self-tapping screws 50 mm long. The door, as well as part of the front wall, is covered with mesh.
Before fixing the door to the frame, you must choose the direction in which it will open. After that, depending on the direction, two hinges should be attached to the side or bottom of the door. Finally, the door is attached to the side post or bottom rail of the tier. As a lock, you can use a mini-espagnolette made of metal.
Schematic arrangement of a cell with a mother liquor and a floor according to Zolotukhin's technology
To install pallets under each tier, you will need to prepare supports from the bars. To do this, 4 square blanks measuring 50 × 50 mm are sawn off from the bar. The blanks are attached to the side racks of the frame so that 5-7 cm remain between the tier and the pallet. For the manufacture of the pallet, a steel sheet is used, which is bent along the perimeter by 1.5–2 cm.
At the final stage, roof sheathing is carried out. To do this, the roof is hemmed with a wooden board 30 × 100 mm. A crate is mounted on top of the board in increments of 10–15 cm. Slate is laid on the crates. If necessary, the roof is insulated with expanded polystyrene.

It should be noted that the design of the Zolotukhin cell may have a slightly different form. Sometimes, the feeder is built directly into the door. To do this, the frame of the feeder is made of galvanized metal, which is then mounted so that its lower part goes into the cage.

The design of street cages also has a slightly different look. The cage is almost completely sheathed with board or plywood. The size of the door is minimal. In addition, it is rational to provide a mother liquor or other space protected from the cold inside the cell.

In addition to feeders for hay and grain, it is necessary to provide drinking bowls. It can be as already finished products with separate container and a water supply system, as well as handicraft inventions according to their own scheme.

Drinkers for rabbits can be made from any plastic containers with cork

As finished products most often, drinkers with a nipple are used, when several tubes leave the water tank at once. In places of supply to the cage, the tubes are branched with a tee. The end of a tube with a nipple is brought into the cage, when pressed, the rabbit can freely drink water.

For self-manufacturing we recommend using the normal plastic bottle, into the cover of which the nipple will be screwed. If the bottle is small, then it is better to fix it inside the cage. If desired, a hose can also be connected to the bottle, into which the end with the nipple will be inserted. In this case, the bottle can be taken out.

Video: building a three-tier lumber cage for rabbits

Create a two-tier cage

Bunk cages are most commonly used for keeping rabbits in utility rooms or as summer options. They are easy to manufacture and repair due to their lightweight design, much like what we described above.

The sequence of actions in the construction of a two-tier cage is as follows:

As an example, let's take the drawing of the cage, which we gave as an example in the section "Cage Size and Drawing". Recall that this is a design with a total height of 2000 mm. The length of the tier is 1400 mm with a standard cage depth of 600 mm.
To assemble the frame frames, it is necessary to prepare 8 long and short blanks. The length of short bars - 600 mm, long - 1400 mm. You can immediately prepare the material for the racks. To do this, it is necessary to saw off 4 blanks from a board 30 × 100 mm, each 200 cm long.
Grain feeders can be attached directly to the side doors of the cage
Then the resulting bars are fastened into frames using self-tapping screws 70 mm long. The resulting frames are mounted on racks of boards. The lower frame is fixed at a distance of 500 mm from the ground level. The distance between the tiers is 15–30 cm. At a distance of 20 cm from the side racks of the frame, vertical guides from 50 × 50 mm bars are fixed.
For the manufacture of feeders, it is necessary to prepare a blank for the bottom of plywood measuring 200 × 600 mm. For each tier, 2 blanks are needed. Next, plywood is attached to the bottom of the cage close to the side posts. After that, the side walls are sheathed.
For tailoring inner wall feeders also use plywood, but the size of the canvas should be 10–15 mm smaller. The gap between the wall and the bottom is necessary for the free sedimentation of grain as it is consumed.
The V-shaped feeder is easy to manufacture and does not take up free space inside the cell
Two approaches can be used to make the bottom. In the first case, the bottom is made of slats 30 × 50 mm, which are fixed in increments of 3–5 mm. In the second, the bottom is made of plywood and mesh, as described in the technology above.
In the center of each tier, V-racks of the hay feeder are mounted. For this, 8 blanks are prepared, which are then fixed on self-tapping screws at a convenient angle. The walls of the feeder are covered with a mesh with a mesh size of 20 × 20 mm.
Doors are made from 40 × 40 mm bars. To do this, you will need to measure the distance between the grain feeders. In our case, it is equal to 100 cm. Next, 4 blanks 100 cm long and 4 blanks 60 cm long are taken. Then two short blanks are placed between the long ones. The resulting frame is fastened with self-tapping screws 70 mm long.
An example of fastening a feeder with grain to a cage door
To hang the door, you will need to fix two hinges on the bottom edge. After that, the door is carefully placed in the opening, and the hinges are screwed to the horizontal guide. A steel bolt or deadbolt is used as a lock.
For the manufacture of pallets, galvanized sheet is used. For this, a canvas measuring 144 × 64 mm is prepared. The edges of the sheet are bent to a height of 1.5–2 cm along the perimeter of the canvas. Pallets are placed under each tier. Previously, supports made of bars measuring 50 × 50 mm are attached to the frame racks.

At the end, the rough surface of the roof is mounted. To do this, the edged board is fixed in increments of 5–7 cm. A galvanized sheet or old slate is laid on top of the board.

How to build a portable cage

Typically, a portable cage is a single-tier structure made of wood. In some cases, the cage can be used as a daily option only, when the structure does not have a bottom. For example, we will give the technology for manufacturing a single-tier portable cage with a mother liquor. It can be used both as a stationary option for okrol, and as a mobile cage that can be taken out into the street as soon as it gets warmer there.

The process of building a mobile cell with a mother liquor consists of the following steps:

To make a cage, you will need to prepare 2 blanks 110 cm long and 2 blanks 130 cm long. Smaller sizes can also be used. The main thing is that the distance from the ground to the bottom of the cage is at least 50 cm.
The resulting blanks are fastened together using a horizontal guide, the length of which is 60–70 cm. The guide is attached at a distance of 50–60 cm from ground level.
The frame for the cage can be assembled both from a 3 mm thick edged board and from 50 × 50 mm bars
To assemble the side racks into a single frame, you will need to saw off 2 boards 140–160 cm long. Again, either option is possible. The main thing is that each section should be at least 60 cm long.
One of the prepared boards is laid on a horizontal jumper between the uprights and fixed with self-tapping screws 50 mm long. The second board is attached to the back of the frame so that its top edge is the same height as the first board.
The back wall of the assembled frame is hemmed with plywood or edged board. For the manufacture of the bottom in the uterine sections, it is necessary to prepare blanks from plywood measuring 30 × 60 cm. The sheets are laid close to the vertical side posts and fastened to self-tapping screws 30 mm long.
If it is planned to insulate the cage, then it is better to cover it from the inside
Next, the side walls of the frame are hemmed. To strengthen the structure, vertical guides are prepared with a length equal to the height of the cage along the front wall. The guides are attached immediately behind the floor of the mother liquor.
For filing inner wall The mother liquor uses a plywood sheet in which propylene is cut with the help of an electric jigsaw. The canvas is attached from the mother liquor to self-tapping screws.
A bar 30 × 30 mm 50 cm long is attached to the hemmed side wall of the frame. A plywood sheet 30 × 60 cm in size is laid on it. Self-tapping screws 30 mm long are used to fasten the plywood.
In the middle of the cage, a spacer from a board 30 × 100 mm is mounted. In the upper part of the cage, two spacers are also mounted at a distance of 10 cm from the center. Between the spacers, blanks from a cut bar 30 × 30 mm are fixed. Then the space between the bars is covered with mesh.
The rest of the floor in the cage is also covered with a galvanized mesh with a cell of 20 × 20 mm. A board 140 cm long is mounted in the upper part of the frame between the two upper posts. The open front part of the hay feeder is hemmed with a board 30 × 100 mm.
For the manufacture of doors to the mother liquor, a plywood sheet is used, in the upper part of which a small window is sawn through. For the manufacture of doors to the main part of the cage, bars of the appropriate section are used, which are fastened into a frame.
Ready-made version of a portable single-tier cage with two queen cells
The door to the mother liquor and the cage is covered with mesh from the inside. After that, two galvanized loops are attached to them. At the end, the doors are fixed on the vertical racks of the frame.
The roof is hemmed with moisture-resistant plywood. The plywood sheet should protrude 10–15 cm beyond the frame. Self-tapping screws 50 mm long are used for fastening.

If necessary, the queen cell in the cage can be made removable. To do this, you will need to make a mother liquor frame from 30 × 30 mm bars of any convenient size. Then the frame is sheathed with plywood. The resulting box can be placed directly in the cage shortly before the birth.

Cage for young animals

Cages for rabbits can be both common and single. The first option is most often used, since it is easier to manufacture. When designing, it should be taken into account that the size of the total cell directly depends on the intended offspring.

For the manufacture of cells, you can use any technology that has been described above. For example, the most good option for a small farm there will be a single-tier structure with two sections.

For its manufacture, it will be necessary to assemble frame frames from a cut bar, which are then fixed on vertical racks from the board. Unlike the frames that are used when assembling cages for adult rabbits, their size is somewhat larger. As a rule, the size of one section is at least 120x60 cm. Ideally, if the size of the section is 150x100 cm.

When designing cages for young animals, it should be taken into account that at least 0.15 square meter area

The further assembly process is similar to the options described earlier: a feeder is installed in the middle of the structure, the floor is hemmed or fitted, the side and back walls are sheathed. After that, the doors are assembled and hung. In conclusion, a roof made of board or plywood is mounted.

Features of the winter maintenance of rabbits

Rabbits, unlike poultry, quite easily tolerate sub-zero temperatures, however, they need to provide comfortable conditions in order to prevent frostbite and the occurrence of colds. At proper insulation the cage can not be transferred to the utility room even at a temperature of -20 o C.

When warming thermal insulation material nestled between cell walls

with constant exposure to low temperatures in rabbits, fertility decreases, and reproductive functions also deteriorate. To reduce the effect of cold, it will be necessary to carry out a full-fledged warming of the cells. For this, modern heat insulators with a thickness of 3 cm or more are used, which fit into the space between the walls of the cage;
if there is no extra money, then natural materials that can be prepared in the summer are suitable as a heater. These include: moss, foliage of trees and shrubs, needles, thin branches. Sufficiently collected material should be thoroughly dried in the shade. A dry heat insulator, according to a similar principle, is laid between the walls of the cell;
in each separate section of the cage, a compartment fenced off from the main part should be provided. It is made according to the principle of a box, when the frame is sheathed with a board or plywood. To enter the compartment, a cut is used in one of the walls;
to avoid a decrease in reproductive functions, a lamp with artificial lighting should be provided in each cage. This will allow to achieve an increase in daylight hours, which will favorably affect the fertility and activity of the animal. If necessary, a heating cable is laid in the cage, which is connected to the rear wall or queen cell;
rabbit food in winter period should be high-calorie with a high content of concentrated and roughage. The main sources of vitamins and minerals are carrots and beets. It is allowed to feed rabbits with boiled potatoes.

The process of making cells is simple and will not cause any particular difficulties even for people who have little use of a hacksaw or a screwdriver. General principle Assemblies are easy to understand with just a couple of instructions. The main thing is to correctly calculate the size and draw up a cage drawing - this will help to avoid most of the mistakes that beginners have.

Igor Nikolaev

Reading time: 5 minutes

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Any practicing rabbit breeder will tell you how important it is to create comfortable living conditions for rabbits.

Since the most common method of keeping domestic rabbits is cage, provide good conditions life and facilitate cleaning will greatly help a properly designed cage.

In addition, an important aspect in its creation is the quality and safety of materials (including environmental).

There are two options here: either buy already finished house for a rabbit, or make it yourself.

The second option is not only less financially costly, but also more preferable, since the rabbitry built by the owner himself makes it possible to take into account the specific number of rabbits and the characteristics of their breed. Next, we will look at how to build a do-it-yourself rabbit cage.
The design of the cage for rabbits and materials for its manufacture with your own hands.
Whatever the design of the rabbit house you choose, its base is always the same and consists of the following main parts:
load-bearing frame;
walls;
ceiling;
doors.

Cages for these pets can be made from either wooden materials, or from a metal mesh, however, in no case should they be made of iron. This will greatly harm the health of your pets, because in summer heat such a cage will overheat, and in the winter cold, on the contrary, it will freeze thoroughly. Such cages for rabbits are absolutely contraindicated.

To make a frame with your own hands, as a rule, thick wooden beams are used, given the fact that the legs of the cage should be at least 35 centimeters long (if you plan to put the cages indoors). If rabbits are planned to be kept on the street, then the height of the legs should be increased - from 70 centimeters to one meter. In addition to safety and comfort for the animals, this height of the rabbit dwelling will greatly facilitate its maintenance. The material for the walls is usually either sheets of plywood, or wooden planks or metal mesh.
Rabbit cages are not completely made of mesh, as they need shelter protected from prying eyes. When arranging floors in cages and feeders, it is best to use the tighter mesh or wooden slats, since food waste and animal waste products spill out well through the left cells. For the manufacture of the roof take the same materials as for the walls. When installing a roof in industrial cages that stand in the open air, it must be covered with additional insulating materials (tiles, roofing material) to protect it from snow and rain.
It is important to remember that any detail in the cage must be made safe and smooth. The mesh should not have sharp ends, but on wooden details must be carefully polished so that the animals do not have splinters and other injuries. These rodents are very curious and can climb anywhere.

The most popular cage designs for rabbits are:
ordinary cell (either without a mother liquor, or with a mother liquor);
design I.N. Mikhailov;
design by N.I. Zolotukhin;
a cage in which a walking aviary for rabbits is provided.

The first type of construction provides for two compartments: the first is for walking and feeding, the second is a shelter-nest. Between themselves, these sections are separated by a solid partition, in which a manhole is provided. The door to the shelter is made of solid wood, and the door to the feeding area is made of a mesh stretched over a frame. If free space allows, walking can be done separately from the feeding area (rabbit aviary). The entrance to such enclosures can be done both through the back wall of the cage, and from below, through the floor.
Housing with a separate enclosure is well suited for mating animals, since the large size of the enclosure allows you to increase the motor activity of animals, which not only has a beneficial effect on the general physical condition, but also improves their reproductive functions.
Industrial cages for rabbits according to the Mikhailov system are real mini-farms, as a result of which this design is considered the most difficult to manufacture and the most advanced. Almost everything is provided in such dwellings: heating of drinking bowls and mother liquors, ventilation system, shelves for rest. Distinctive feature cells of this design is a unique system for the removal of animal waste.
Mikhailov cell design
Wherever they shit, everything falls into one container. Also on such mini-farms, a bunker feeder for rabbits is used, which allows you to set food once or twice a week, as well as drip drinkers that dose the water supply from a large tank. Such a construction is the subject of a separate article. We are considering more simple options, which you can do with your own hands, although the use of a bunker feeder in them is also possible.
The Zolotukhinsky version differs from the others in that instead of slats or a mesh structure, solid sheets of plywood or flat slate are laid on the floor. There is no waste tray in such cages. The whole trick is that the floor is arranged with a slight slope, and a grid of 10 to 20 centimeters wide is mounted on the back wall of the cage. Animal feces are removed through this mesh, since rabbits most often prefer to shit near the back wall.
Rabbit feeders in cages of this design are of a tilting type, and there is no need to remove them to clean them. It is enough just to tilt the feeder towards you and remove the remnants of food. A net must be placed in the feeder to prevent small rabbits from escaping through it.
Also, the Zolotukhin system does not provide for a summer mother liquor. The author proposes to fence off with a board 20 centimeters wide for the time of birth and subsequent feeding a place of the desired size, which is filled with hay. The rabbit in this place will arrange a nest for herself. This breeding technique brings the rabbits as close as possible to the natural conditions of their life, which allows you to get rabbits with a more stable immune system. As soon as the rabbits grow up, the board is taken away, freeing up space for them to walk. AT winter time this approach is unacceptable, and a closed mother liquor must be installed.
An important advantage of the Zolotukhinskaya design is that for its construction with your own hands you do not need to have special skills and use expensive materials.

To make such a dwelling, affordable and cheap materials are needed: boards, mesh, plywood sheets or flat slate, as well as a small amount of sheet metal. A frame, a nest door and a solid partition are made of wood. For the device of the floor, plywood or slate (flat) is taken. Partitions for feeders and the outer door are made of mesh. Sheet metal is needed in order to cover protruding wooden parts from rabbits, which they like to gnaw. There should be no drafts in the nesting compartment, as well as a lot of light, so the door here is made solid. In the mother liquor, it is necessary to provide a threshold of at least 10 centimeters in height so that some rabbit does not fall out of it when the door is opened.
To prevent waste from the cells of the upper tier from falling into the lower ones, the back wall must be made straight there, and on the lower tier - with a slope.
Cells according to Zolotukhin
How to make a cage for rabbits?
The sequence of actions in making a cage for rabbits with your own hands is as follows:
first of all, a frame is made from wooden bars 5x5 centimeters, and a grid is mounted on the floor of the feeding compartment;
then the back wall and the solid floor of the nesting compartment are placed;
plywood sheets close the side walls and install a partition with a pre-cut hole between the aft and nest compartments. The size of the hole must be at least 20 centimeters in diameter;
a cover is installed on the nest;
a bar is attached to the frame in the middle of the cage, dividing it into sections, and then drinkers and feeders for rabbits are mounted (how to make a drinker for rabbits and how to make a feeder for rabbits are the topic of separate articles);
the resulting structure is turned over, and with the help of rails, the grid on the floor is finally fixed;
feed bins and a compartment for roughage are mounted. You can put rods, or you can - a grid with cells of 2x5 centimeters;
then a roof is installed on the cage and a movable door for feeders equipped with a handle;
mesh and solid doors equipped with latches are attached to the frame.

If the cages will stand in the open air, then it is necessary to cover the roof with a moisture-proof roofing material. To do this, a rack frame is stuffed onto the finished roof, to which the roof is attached (roofing material or slate). The roof should be sloped for sap water. For example, if the height of the front wall is 70 centimeters, then the back wall should be 60 tons.
Whatever design you decide to make, be sure to first make detailed drawings of cells with dimensions. Such a scheme will help you not to make mistakes during construction and to purchase the right amount of materials in advance. The mesh size of the mesh used in the manufacture of rabbit dwellings must exceed 2x2 centimeters. In cells bigger size animals can get stuck.

Many novice farmers are wondering where to start breeding rabbits. None special costs this activity is not required. First of all, it is necessary to equip a place of residence for eared animals, prepare cages, drinkers, feeders. All this can be easily done by hand. The main thing is to choose the appropriate design and size for the cage, prepare drawings, necessary tools and building materials.

First of all, you need to decide on the size. The most common are double designs with two separate sections. There are other types of cages: single-section, group for young rabbits, three sections or for a rabbit with babies. There are also author's designs: from the farmer Zolotukhin, from the breeder Tsvetkov. Based on what will be built, and materials are selected.

First of all, it is necessary to determine the type of cell, and then purchase the material.

Necessary tools for construction:

hacksaw;
a hammer;
corner;
pliers;
plane;
screwdriver.

Any design implies the presence of a frame, walls, floor, ceiling and doors. Most often, wood and metal mesh are used to build cages. Each cell of such a grid should be no more than 2 * 2 cm and at least 16 * 47 mm in diameter (depending on the age and weight of the rabbits).

The minimum set of materials includes:

large sheets of plywood;
slate;
screws and nails;
bars;
slats;
durable galvanized mesh (with small cells).

For the manufacture of doors, curtains and latches, as well as feeders and drinking bowls, are additionally purchased.

The wood must be well sanded and sanded, the ends of the mesh must be securely fastened. Be sure to remove all sharp edges so that the animal does not get hurt. It is better to cover all protruding wooden parts inside the cage with tin. Rabbits love to chew on wood to grind their teeth. Therefore, it is necessary to put branches in the feeder more often. The walls and roof can be made of plywood and mesh, and for the main frame choose thick bars of wood.

Attention. If the cage is located in an open space, on the street, then without good roofing materials not enough. But metal roof not worth doing. In the summer, in the sun, it will become very hot, which will lead to heat stroke in rabbits.

Most often, rabbit cages are made of wood and mesh.

The frame is made of thick bars, the length of which depends on the location of the cell. If it is installed outdoors, then the length of the legs of the frame should not be less than 80-100 cm. For a cage standing indoors, 35-40 cm of length is enough.

Sizes and types of cells

First of all, you need to find or make yourself the right drawing. It is important to remember that one cage for breeding rabbits is not enough. You need to build three or four at once.

The average dimensions of a standard cage are:

length 120-140 cm;
width 70-80 cm;
height 40-50 cm.

For young rabbits, a length of about 90 cm is sufficient, and the rest of the parameters may remain the same. For one adult animal, it is customary to allocate at least 0.7 square meters. m. area, for young animals - 0.2 square meters. m.

There are several types of cells:

for the young;
for adult rabbits;
for a rabbit with offspring;
for giant rabbits;
solid wire;
cells from Zolotukhin;
cells from Tsvetkov;
Rabbitax.

It is customary to keep rabbits with babies together, and for already grown up rabbits they build a separate house.

A standard two-story house for adult rabbits is easy to build.

On the drawing, it will look like this:

Drawing of a bunk cage for rabbits.

Cage for young animals

The grown rabbits weaned from their mothers are kept together, in groups of 10-20 individuals. In the manufacture of cages are guided by the minimum dimensions: total area 300 × 100 cm and a ceiling height of 50-60 cm. It is desirable to make the floor in such a house from thin wooden slats covering them on the side metal mesh(thickness 1.5 mm and cell diameter 15*40 mm). You can install a completely mesh floor, but make a separate warm room for the rabbits. In winter, it is carefully insulated with hay and straw.

Important. One rabbit should have at least 0.2-0.3 square meters. m. area.

Some farmers do not make separate housing for young animals, but settle them in cages intended for adult animals. At the same time, it is calculated how many rabbits can be placed in one cage in order to provide them with comfortable conditions.

For adult rabbits

For adult animals of medium size, cages with a depth of about 70 cm, a height of 60 cm and a length of at least a meter are suitable. It uses a block construction, and each block, in turn, is divided by a grid into two cells. For the mating period, the partition should be removed, combining two sections into one.

For adult rabbits, you can make a block of cages in 2 or 3 tiers.

You can make a two-tier and three-tier cage. It will be a little more difficult, but it will save space on the site.

In any cage, a separate place for sleeping, eating or walking should be equipped. To do this, the cage is divided by a plywood partition with a hole (20 × 20 cm) located at a height of 15 cm from the floor. The sleeping compartment must have a solid wooden door, and a place for eating and walking - mesh. The resting place does not need to be made large. Ideal dimensions, approximately 30x60x50 cm.

House for a rabbit with offspring

You can often hear the opinion that a rabbit with babies needs a separate mother liquor only in winter, and in summer a regular cage is enough. But you need to remember that in an open room, fenced only with a net, the female will be nervous and worried. This can adversely affect the health of the offspring. In the mother house, there must be a closed, warm place for the nest and a large space for walking, with a mesh front wall.

This is one of the simplest and functional options house for a female with offspring:

The photo shows a two-tier cage for rabbits with hinged nest compartments.

A frame is made of durable bars, and the back wall and two side walls are made of plywood. The cage is immediately divided into two sections: a large one for walking and a small one for the nest. For each of them, separate doors are made (mesh and solid wood). The walls, floor and ceiling in the mother liquor should be double, according to the sandwich principle. Styrofoam or straw can be laid between them. The roof is covered with slate.

Home for giant rabbits

Cages for these large animals must be much larger than normal. Adults can grow up to 60 cm in length and reach a weight of 7.5 kg.

There are many giant breeds:

butterfly;
German Risen;
grey;
Belgian;
ram;
white;
blue Viennese.

The minimum dimensions of a house for one rabbit should be as follows:

height 55-65 cm;
length 0.9-1.5 m;
width 70-75 cm.

If possible, it is better to increase the parameters of the dwelling.

For young rabbits, a special group cage is built, 40-50 cm high and about 1.2 square meters in area. m. Considering the rather big weight of animals, they strengthen the floor well. It is also made from galvanized mesh, only thicker. So that such a floor does not sag, a crate is made under it from bars located at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other.

Giant rabbits are recommended to be kept in spacious cages with a solid floor.

Some rabbit breeders lay a solid wooden floor in the cages and install plastic pallets under it. But cleaning in such a cage will have to be done at least twice a day.

Solid wire cage

This is the most a budget option rabbit housing, which can be installed both outdoors and indoors. These lightweight and durable cages take up little space and are easy to store and clean. For their manufacture, two types of mesh are required: a larger one for walls and ceiling (diameter 2.5 * 5 cm) and smaller - for the floor (1.5 * 5 cm). The frame is built from a durable timber, with a leg length of 50-70 cm. For the winter period, such a structure is placed in an insulated barn, and in the summer it is taken out into the street.

Cages for rabbits from Zolotukhin

The well-known breeder N.I. Zolotukhin developed his own, original, simple and inexpensive design of a dwelling for rabbits. There is no need to do daily cleaning in the cages, and the animals in them feel comfortable and get sick less.

Zolotukhin's cage is a three-story building with a sloping plywood floor. The mesh is laid on the floor only in a small space at the rear wall, without a pallet. The second tier is shifted relative to the first by the width of this grid. The third one is the same. The front wall (common for all three floors) forms a slope. Each compartment is equipped with a tilting feeder.

This is what Zolotukhin's three-tiered cage looks like from the back.

For the construction of the cage you will need: wood, straight sheet slate, metal mesh, polycarbonate and tin. A wooden frame, partitions and doors of the mother liquor are pre-made. Mesh is used for cage doors and the back of the floor. The floor itself is made of slate, and the back wall is made of polycarbonate. All wooden parts located inside the cage are upholstered with tin.

Cell dimensions:

height 150 cm;
width 200cm;
depth about 70-80 cm;
floor slope 6-8 cm;
mesh width in front of the back wall 15-20 cm;
door size 40*40 cm.

Each floor is divided by a partition into two sections, and between them there is a place for a sennik.

Cells from Tsvetkov

An experienced farmer A. A. Tsvetkov proposed the idea of a two-story mini-farm for rabbits, consisting of 4 separate sections. A distinctive feature of such cages are: two gravity feeders, two mounted queen cells, original ventilation and manure removal systems.

The frame is built from coniferous timber and must be painted with white nitro paint. Moisture-resistant plywood, at least 8 mm thick, is suitable for making a sennik. From the inside, the sennik is upholstered with a metal mesh, it also plays the role of a door in each section.

The photo shows cages for rabbits, made according to the drawings of farmer Tsvetkov.

All wooden parts are sheathed sheet metal, the cone for collecting manure is covered with slate mastic. For the roof, you can use slate or roofing material. The water in the drinkers is heated using a boiler.

Rabbitax cells

Cells "Rabbitaks" come in different designs and modifications. The simplest are small two-section options. There are also ecological models based on the technology of redirecting air flows.

There are even real farms for rabbits "Rabbitaks", in which more than 25 individuals live and breed at the same time. On sale you can find a huge number of varieties of such cells. You can make "Rabbitaks" yourself. As a basis, you can take the drawings of the rabbit breeder I. N. Mikhailov.

Cell manufacturing rules

In order for the rabbits to be comfortable and comfortable in the new house, a few simple rules must be observed during construction:

all wooden protruding parts inside the cage are upholstered with tin;
for a roof device it is better to use slate;
you can not use antiseptic, varnishes and impregnations;
for the floor, take a grid with cells with a diameter of 1 * 2.5 cm to 2.5 * 2.5;
The frame is built from durable wooden beam(not less than 5*5 cm);
the back wall of the cage is made of plywood.

The floor in rabbit cages is made of wooden slats or mesh.

How to build a rabbit hutch

When the drawing is selected, materials and tools are prepared - you can start building. First you need to assemble a frame from a bar and lay a mesh floor. In outdoor conditions, the floor will have to be insulated and removable pallets made under it (for cleaning).

Next, install the back wall of plywood. It should be lower than the front. The side walls are also desirable to be made of plywood. In a double cage in the middle, a sennik is equipped. And the front wall can be made of mesh, with a door. If the cage will always be on the street, then you should take care of the insulated sleeping compartment. The sloping roof is covered with slate.

What do we place inside the cage

The internal contents of the cell may vary. It depends on who will live in it. So, for a rabbit with babies, it is necessary to arrange special queen cells and nesting compartments. When group keeping young animals, warm nesting rooms will also be needed. Often they are equipped with special indoor enclosures for walking. In each cage, there must be bunker devices, drinkers, feeders, senniks.

It is advisable to place the feeder and drinker outside the cage so that the rabbit cannot gnaw on them.

Choosing a place to install the cage

Before you start building, it is important to decide on the placement of the cage. It should be a comfortable place protected from through winds. You should not install a rabbit house on the south side, because in summer the animals will suffer from heat. It is necessary to strictly observe the size of the cage, depending on the breed and the number of rabbits. For ease of cleaning, a removable roof is made in the cells.

If the animals live on the street all year round, then the floor is best made of wood in the form of a retractable pallet. And already on top to fill the crate of the rails. Feeders and drinkers can be removable. The walls and ceiling are insulated with foam, and a warm floor with heating is installed in the uterine compartment.

We offer you to watch a video instruction that will help you build cages for rabbits with your own hands.

Human activities such as farming and animal husbandry mean good earnings and a constant supply of quality food and fur. However, in order to get any profit, it is necessary to invest in any business not only own forces but also material goods. If we are talking about a farm, then investments are the purchase of feed, the arrangement of the territory, the construction of a shelter for animals.

Rabbits are one of the most popular pets. They require a moderate amount of effort and time, but the products they provide are really useful. In order for the animal to bring joy and not force you to invest even more money in yourself, you need to take care of its place of residence in advance. Speaking of rabbits, we immediately imagine a cage in our mind. And to save money, this same house can be made with your own hands.

Peculiarities

As you know, rabbits are undemanding to the area of \u200b\u200btheir home. This is due to the way of life that they lead in the wild, where representatives of the hare family are able to huddle in small burrows that serve them. permanent home or a place to sleep. Therefore, on your site, you can not set aside a huge area for keeping rabbits, but get by with a rather capacious area.

The environment plays a key role in this matter. After all, if we turn to nature again, then rabbits lead a mobile lifestyle and can choose the right climate for themselves. When they are all the time in the same area, for example, in the territory farming, then the optimal temperature and humidity for pets should be selected by a person. Only in the case of correctly set indicators, the animal will be able not only to show a “healthy” mood, but also quickly gain height and weight.

These indicators have a fruitful effect on the taste of meat and the quality of the fur.

Making a cage for rabbits with your own hands is not at all difficult process, however, it is important to take into account the above nuancesso that the animal pleases you, and does not cause unnecessary trouble. Homemade rabbit kennels have simple design, consisting of a frame, a ceiling, side walls, a central door, a feeder and a drinker. That's all it takes for safe life pet.

Before building a house for a hare family, you need to consult with a specialist. It will help you determine the materials, the area of \u200b\u200bthe structure, and its location.

Just the area for placing animals needs to be given special attention so that it meets the basic requirements.

The best option- make a portable structure. Its essence lies in the fact that it is two-story, that is, on the lower level there is a free area without a floor, where rabbits can move freely and run on the grass. Of course, this area is fenced around the perimeter. On the upper level there is a full-fledged house for a pet, from where there is access to a feeder and drinker. This design allows you to move the shelter to the optimal place for you and for the animals in accordance with the weather.

The main classification of cages for rabbits is their location. Houses for animals can be outdoors, indoors or combined, when the pet has access to the air, while it can always be warm.

Specialists involved in breeding rabbits recommend exactly those cages that imply placement on the street. Their convenience lies in the fact that you can "settle" a huge number of animals there, since most often the street space is not limited. In addition, the cells need constant cleaning, and it is much more convenient to do this on the street. If it is assumed that rabbits will live on the street more often, then it is extremely important to think about the insulation of the structure. Although these animals do well in low winter temperatures, they should have a place where they can warm up during especially cold periods.

Moreover, a protruding visor will be a good addition to a standard outdoor cage, which can protect rabbits from all kinds of precipitation and direct sunlight.

The cages that are placed in the barn can be made of metal mesh, which is fixed on the mounted wooden frame. If you prefer this particular type of cells, then it is important to consider the availability of a convenient channel through which you can get rid of pet waste.

It is also necessary to provide for good ventilation of the room so that the animals exist in comfort.

Combined view cells are ideal for summer time keep pets outside, and in colder periods of the calendar year, put the structure with animals indoors. Experts say that this is the most economical and, indeed, convenient option. As an alternative, you can consider building a cage both indoors and outdoors.

However, this solution will be quite expensive, and also impractical for farmers who breed a huge number of animals.

The design and dimensions of the cells

The structure of the cage for representatives of the hare family may differ in the number of "floors", that is, it can be single-tiered or multi-tiered. The first ones are usually raised above the ground by 70-80 centimeters. The roof for them is made of slate, which, unlike metal, does not heat up in extreme heat. In order to avoid problems with getting rid of animal waste, a so-called pallet is installed.

It can be made in the form of a drain for more convenient collection.

For the construction of the second, multi-tiered cells, bars, boards and galvanized grids are used. They are most often built on several floors, each of which has a certain number of sections. Farmers claim that this option is convenient for placing animals both on the street and in the building. The optimal solution is the construction of a two-tier structure, which allows for convenient care and close observation of the animals.

When building this structure indoors, the cage must be erected 50 centimeters, and outdoors - 70 centimeters above the ground. The space above any section should be at least 15 centimeters, where it is best to place inclined ebbs, from which it is quite convenient to remove animal waste. It is also important to provide boards on the sides of these ebbs to prevent rabbits from getting into their cages of all kinds of debris.

Necessary materials

Consider a list of materials from which you can build a three-tiered cage, where rabbits can live comfortably. The dimensions of the finished cage will be: width 1.4 meters, height - 1.9 meters, depth - 0.6 meters. So, we need:

wooden beam with a section of 50x30 mm, it is necessary to purchase 27 meters;
wooden board with a section of 100x30 mm, you need to purchase 10 meters;
plywood (15 mm), you will need one standard sheet;
metal mesh (wire 0.7 mm, cell area - 25x25 mm), it is necessary to purchase 8 m2;
galvanized metal sheet with a thickness of about 0.6 mm, you need to purchase 3 m2;
self-tapping screws for 50, you will need 300-500 pieces;
nails for 60, you need to purchase 100 pieces;
latches for the queen cell door, 6 pieces;
door hinges, 12 pieces.

Instead of using plywood, a profile or a profile pipe can be preferred for finishing the body.

Dimensions and drawings

Now consider detailed guide on the topic of how to securely build and install rabbit dwellings so that the building performs its functions correctly, was a great helper in the household.

Cells for okrol

These buildings are suitable for only born cubs to live in warmth next to their mother for the purpose of fattening. In such cages, there are special cases on two opposite sides, or a system with a mobile queen cell is being thought out.

The latter option, according to experts, is convenient because the mother liquor can always be placed in the cell where the okrol appeared, besides, such a structure is easier to clean. The house for little rabbits looks like a box with round hole in one wall and an opening door for cleaning in the other. From the inside, such a design is insulated with dry and clean hay and shavings.

It is undesirable to put small sawdust inside, as this can harm the respiratory organs of rabbits.

If you prefer a stationary mother liquor, then the floors and walls must be made solid in order to avoid drafts and protect small creatures from death. If okrol is planned for the winter period, then it is extremely important to warm up the mother liquor in advance. To do this, you need to place an electric heating pad or lamp inside so that the rabbit is as comfortable as possible to give birth and care for her babies.

If it is planned that the rabbits will be in a rather cold room immediately after birth, it is necessary to make the heating system permanent. For this, an ordinary light bulb is often used, which is kept turned on in an additional compartment of the box, enclosed by a wall. For fire safety purposes, it is important to sheathe the mother liquor body with a thin metal sheet.

Specialists have developed another way to help keep warm in the rabbitry. You can install a cable from the "warm floor" system. It is laid directly on the bottom of the case, and a floor panel is mounted on top, which can be removed. If the system is installed according to all the rules, then you have an excellent opportunity to regulate temperature conditions in the mother liquor in accordance with the one kept on the street.

The owner himself decides how many tiers he needs for successful breeding of rabbits. However, all sections look the same. It consists of a main compartment, where most of the life of rabbits passes, and of a mother liquor, built-in or mobile, it has a partition, behind which there is a lamp that maintains an acceptable temperature.

Each of the departments of one section has a standard length of about 100-120 centimeters, a depth of 55-65 centimeters. Since the roof is sloping, there are 40-45 centimeters from the back wall of the facade, and about 55 centimeters from the front. The minimum width of the built-in mother liquor reaches about 40 centimeters.

Cages for young animals

Their area should be suitable for keeping rabbits from 3 to 6 months in the amount of 9-18 pieces. Breeders are advised to take 0.25 m2 per animal, and provide for a wall height of at least 40 centimeters.

If as building material for the floor you use wooden bars, it is important to protect them from the growing teeth of the kids, who are constantly striving to gnaw the corners of the wood, you need to put a metal mesh over the tree. The best option is to make the entire floor from a similar mesh, because such a design can give the cage constant ventilation, and the waste is removed “on its own”. However, in this case, it is necessary to provide a warm place.

Young rabbits are just as important to take care of as newborns. The design scheme must necessarily provide for a compartment where animals can bask in winter. You can insulate such a room by turning to the help of hay or straw, laid out 1.5 centimeters up.

Bedding made from artificial raw materials is not the best option for keeping warm inside, because they negatively affect the health and development of babies.

Cages for adults

Similar cages, where matured and strengthened rabbits live, are constructed according to the same principle, however, for their facade around the entire perimeter and for the floor, it is better to use a galvanized mesh. For those animals that have medium dimensions, cages are created with a depth and height of about 60 centimeters, the length is about 100 centimeters.

Experts advise in advance to provide for the possibility of connecting two cells that are nearby, which is necessary during the mating period. For example, you can create a plywood wall that can be removed without much effort.

And also attention should be paid to the free movement of rabbits, because this directly affects their successful growth.

Cages with a territory for walking

This version of the structure is ideal for young animals or females to live in them, which are completely ready for reproduction. The layout of the cage is made up of two zones: a completely enclosed shelter built from boards and an aviary, the walls of which are made of metal mesh. There is a hole in the back wall of the cage through which the pets can enter the aviary. Consequently, pets have the opportunity to move freely around the cage, which has a great effect on their growth.

The dimensions of such structures depend solely on the wishes of the owner. However, there are certain dimensions, less than which it is not recommended to make the structure.

The depth of the cage can be from 60 to 65 centimeters, and the depth of the territory for walking can be from 80 to 100 centimeters.

Cages for the breed "Giants"

The parameters of the cage for rabbits of this species should be, respectively, larger, as well as the rabbits themselves. Individuals of this breed reach up to 60 centimeters in length, and in mass they have from 5 to 7 kilograms. Therefore, to keep one grown giant rabbit, a cage is needed, the length of which will be at least 1 meter, the depth is about 70 centimeters, and the height is about 40 centimeters.

Since the weight of the "Giants" is quite impressive, it is important to consider strengthening the floor in the cage. It is also made of galvanized mesh, but they acquire a thicker wire, about 2 millimeters. Bars are better to use those with a cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200b30x30 mm, laid at a distance of 40 millimeters in relation to each other.

If the floor in the cage is solid, then a good option- buy plastic pallets that are convenient to clean every two days.

Cages for California rabbits

This species is very popular with breeders, because it is unpretentious in care and steadfastly copes with low temperatures. They are smaller in size compared to their fellow “giants”, but their weight can reach 5 kilograms, which is also a lot. Since the paws of Californian rabbits are endowed with hard hair, a floor made of metal mesh or grating is quite suitable for them.

Rabbits of this breed can be grown in conditions that are as close to natural as possible. To do this, they can be placed in a pit with a volume of 200x200x100 centimeters. The walls of such a house must be strengthened with slate sheets, boards or a grid should be placed on the floor. Around the pit, you need to build a low fence and a roof that protects from precipitation.

On one side of the pit, you can make an earthen pit, which will bring the conditions of existence closer to natural ones. Rabbits will be able to dig their own minks, breed and raise offspring.

Consequently, the owner does not have to diligently monitor the pit, as he would watch the cage.

Step by step manufacturing instructions

Let's take a step-by-step look at whether it is possible to properly assemble and build a multi-tiered structure for breeding rabbits at home.

To mount the frame, the purchased boards must be divided into several parts of the following sizes: 4 pieces (100x30x2250 mm); 12 pieces (50x30x1340 mm); 12 pieces (50x30x540 mm); 72 pieces (25x30x540 mm).
From the resulting parts, you need to assemble 6 identical frames with dimensions of 1340x600 mm. Mounting them is quite easy. First, one is made with precise angles, and then it is adapted as a template to create others. To assemble one frame, you need 2 bars with dimensions of 50x30x540 mm and 2 bars with dimensions of 50x30x1340 mm. The smaller ones are fastened between the larger ones with self-tapping screws.
Next, 6 frames with the smaller side must be placed on boards with dimensions of 100x30x2250 mm. The distance from one frame to another is 400 mm. It is necessary that 180 mm remain between the tiers, and the first tier must be raised from the ground by 400 mm. Self-tapping screws are used for fastening.
Now you need to parallel these two boards with two of the same on the other side of the frame. It is important to make sure that they are perfectly level, which will help you with the building level.
Next, we select bars with dimensions of 25x30x540 mm. We use them for the construction of the floor in the form of a lattice. The distance between the two bars should be about 20 mm. They are mounted inside each frame, and fastened with self-tapping screws from the outside.
Each of the tiers must be divided into two different cells. The partition will be a sennik, which resembles the letter V. It is necessary in order to lay food for rabbits: hay or grass.
The frame of the sennik must be stitched inside along these installed bars using a grid.
If it is planned to arrange a mother liquor on one of the tiers, then the floor must be flat, without gaps, as mentioned above. The plywood sheet will serve as a barrier from the main part of the cage to the mother liquor, but it is important to provide for the free opening of this “door”, which can be done by installing additional bars.
The entrance from the rabbitry to the mother cell is in the form of a circle or a semicircle, but it is important that it is located 100 mm above the floor so that the cubs cannot move into the cage until they learn to overcome such a barrier themselves.
In the mother liquor, you need to make a bottom from a plywood sheet, but do not nail it to the bars, so that you can then freely get it out and dry it before the next round. From above it is necessary to make a folding door, fixing it on hinges and providing a lock in the form of a latch.
Further, in accordance with the remaining openings, it is necessary to make cage door frames, constructing them according to the same principle as the frames for the tiers. The mesh on any frame can be fixed with a construction stapler.
The choice of the side where the door hinges will be attached depends solely on the preferences of the owner and the conditions in a particular room. You can install them from below, and the door will become hinged, or you can mount them on the side, and it will be hinged.
Depending on the external conditions, the cage frame can be sheathed with a metal mesh or plywood.
It is extremely important to provide a system of ebbs so that the waste of the tiers located above does not fall into the animals living below. To do this, a metal sheet with sides bent by 100 mm must be attached to the front lower part of the tier. The ebb is located at an angle and extends beyond the cage by about 30 mm. Consequently, it turns out that all waste is sent back, which provides free access to the front side of the cells.