Living in a private house, we are constantly faced with the question of where to put potatoes, cabbage, pickles, jams and other preparations for the winter. Sheds and outbuildings on the site are good until the first frosts, but the best place for food storage is a cellar.

Varieties of cellars

There are two types of cellars: standing separately (on the street) and located inside the house (under the house).

Standing separately

Such a cellar is simpler in terms of its device. Imagine a small (1.0 x 1.2 x 1.2 m) hole in the ground, with reinforced walls and a lined bottom, in which there are roughly knocked together shelves-racks. That's the whole technology on the topic "How to make a cellar on the street." A photo of a similar design is presented below.

The complexity of the device of this design will be to carry out heavy earthen and construction works(dig a hole, strengthen the walls, lay out the bottom, put together boards). In addition, it is necessary to provide mandatory ventilation and waterproofing of walls (this is especially true for the requirements for soil in areas with a level of occurrence ground water above average).

In addition to being completely underground, the cellar can be semi-buried (when part of the storage is located above the ground, see the drawing below) and completely above ground (built on the ground, but well covered with soil with turf as an imitation of a "dugout").

As a rule, it is equipped even at the stage of construction of a private house, when a basement is being built. Such a cellar is more acceptable, since it does not require financial and temporal costs. The premises for it have already been laid and equipped, besides, the land area is being saved. An example of such a cellar in log house shown in the photo.

The main disadvantage is the need for waterproofing and wall insulation.

Conditions for the normal functioning of the cellar

• Cool. It is easy to keep the cellar cool - in the cellars that are in contact with the outer walls, the temperature is always low.
• Darkness. The absence of windows and a sealed hatch provide a constant low air temperature in the room.
• Ventilation. This is the first (and most important) condition that must be observed when building a cellar with your own hands. Along with a lower temperature, there must be fresh air in the room. Otherwise, there will be a musty, damp smell in the basement, and the basement walls will “leak” from constant condensate. By preventing the appearance of condensate, it is possible to avoid dampening of the walls and the formation of a fungus on them that affects building construction.
• Humidity. Humidity of 90% is considered the extreme bar - it creates the most favorable temperature conditions and conditions for storing blanks and products for the winter.

The device of a separate cellar

The earthen cellar is the lightest in the device. When choosing it, they take into account the ease of construction, the level of groundwater and the terrain. If the soil is dry, then an earthen cellar is the best solution. If the groundwater is not deep, then it is better to make a surface (or at least semi-submerged).

How to make an earthen cellar with your own hands, the necessary steps:

• Dig a pit (take the dimensions yourself).
• Thoroughly compact the bottom of the pit, fill in the "pillow" and make a "castle" of clay - so that underground moisture does not seep through the floor (the thickness of the "castle" should exceed 200mm).
• Arrange the floor in the cellar - from soil with a layer thickness of 150 mm (which is then carefully tamped) or cement screed.
• Strengthen the walls (with bricks, boards, cinder blocks) - be sure to slope to prevent soil collapses.
• Properly waterproof walls and floors.

Using the same "technology" it is possible to rebuild a semi-buried cellar - the difference will be only in the additional arrangement of the ground part (canopy). The ground part can be built of brick or clay. The main thing is to close the ground part with soil with turf (to maintain a constant temperature regime).

A semi-buried earthen cellar is good because a small pit (up to 1 m in size) is suitable for its construction, which reduces construction time. For the base, it is desirable to choose brick or concrete, which, after laying, must be completely waterproofed.

Such cellars should be equipped with ceilings.

Important: the entrance to the semi-buried cellar should be on the north side so that the door is not overgrown with moss. The "wrong" side entry device is a common mistake many amateur builders make.

Waterproofing: types, features, application technology

The cellar is equipped, now you need to “finish” it. And the first point is its waterproofing (especially for cellars arranged in the basement of houses), because. basement walls are exposed to groundwater.

Houses are built in areas and on foundations, as far as possible from the level of groundwater. But sometimes it turns out that this level rises due to the abundance of precipitation. In this case, the walls can quickly collapse from the formed mold, dampness appears in the room and the products become unusable. To avoid this, you need to waterproof the walls and floor of the cellar.

Important: even the highest quality waterproofing in a stone house can turn out to be poor if the ventilation of the cellar is disturbed. That is why a well-organized supply and exhaust ventilation system is so important.

Types of waterproofing materials

1. Bitumen (mastic). This is a paste-like solution that is applied to the prepared wall surface. The optimal number of layers is 2, and each of them should be sprinkled with dry sand after application. Before applying, the bitumen must be heated, and it is desirable to plaster the walls.
2. Penetrating waterproofing. Its consistency is a liquid creamy solution, which is also applied to the prepared base (cleaned from cement, dust). concrete structures it is advisable to scrape with a metal scraper - this way they become cleaned and adhesion to the waterproofing increases. The solution should be applied to a moistened base, and after that the surface should be kept moist for 2-3 days so that the solution saturates the walls.
3. "Liquid rubber". This type is considered no less effective than penetrating waterproofing. Before application, the surface is cleaned of dust, cement residues and the surface is leveled as best as possible. Then it is primed - the primer will increase the adhesive forces of the insulation with the enclosing surfaces, after the primer has dried, insulation is applied with a spatula, carefully leveling the layers. After application, the final work on finishing the cellar is best done no earlier than a day later.
4. Cement-polymer. This insulation differs from previous types in the composition of the insulating material. The method of application is the same as when using " liquid rubber". The difference lies in the use of a mixture consisting of a polymer substance and a cement powder. After processing, the layer should be left to dry completely, then apply a second layer of insulation with a spatula.

Ventilation

Its main function is to ensure good air exchange in the cellar to maintain an optimal microclimate. Thanks to it, products will be better (and longer) preserved. However, even here there may be "pitfalls".

According to the requirements of SNiP, ventilation in the cellars is made of supply and exhaust with natural circulation. This means that air flows must pass naturally through specially equipped ventilation holes and air ducts.

Important: insufficient air exchange will lead to dampness of the products, the formation of dampness and a musty smell. As a result, the walls of the cellar can collapse and the products placed there for storage can quickly deteriorate. And too much ventilation (both supply and exhaust) will lead to drafts, so raw vegetables and fruits will dry out. It is important to comply with all conditions for a normally functioning ventilation device.

As an air duct, you can use an asbestos pipe of the desired diameter. The size of the section will depend on the cubic capacity of the room. In the same SNiP, an exact calculation of the required air exchange per hour and the selection of air ducts of the required dimensions according to the obtained value are given. Simply put, the larger the room, the larger the diameter of the pipes you will have to use. The minimum diameter of an asbestos pipe for a cellar with a volume of 7-8m3 is 200 mm.

Advice: the minimum size of the ventilation pipe is calculated based on the proportion of 1 to 26, where 1 is 1m2 of the cellar area, 26 is 26cm2 of the pipe area.

The exhaust duct must be made 150 mm below the level of the cellar ceiling (measurements are made along the upper edge of the duct), along one of the corners of the room. The hood passes in transit through all the rooms and floors of the house, “flashes” the roof and goes to the roof.

There, the pipe is “sewn up” into the ventilation shaft, the end of which should rise 0.5 m above the highest point of the roof (in this case, it is a ridge). To reduce the formation of condensate in the pipe during the cold season, it is advisable to lay the air duct in the ventilation shaft coaxially, i.e. on the principle of "pipe in pipe", insulating the cavity between them. The pipe can be overlaid with mineral wool or glass wool.

Supply air duct required for inflow fresh air. The lower end should be in the corner opposite the exhaust duct. Moreover, the "inflow" hole should be placed in the lower part of the cellar - at a level of 0.5-0.6 m from the floor.

The top end must remain open to the air flow, located at a level of 0.8 m above the ceiling.

Advice: to prevent debris, small rodents, birds from getting into the supply and exhaust ventilation pipes, the upper ventilation openings can be closed with a fine mesh.

These are the requirements of SNiP. To understand how to arrange cellar ventilation in the basement, you can look at the drawing.

Important: in the cold season, a large temperature difference is formed due to different densities of warm and cold air. As a result, a draft can result, freezing a warm cellar, so it is advisable to install special dampers on the air ducts. With their help, you can adjust the amount of air exchange.

How to check the efficiency of ventilation?

The easiest way is to attach a sheet of paper to the ventilation grilles. If the paper sways slightly, then air flows through the ducts.

Another method is the use of smoke. It is necessary to light the “checker” and see if condensation forms on the walls and ceiling from smoke. If the walls begin to “sweat” and the air becomes damp and musty, the ventilation should be re-equipped (for example, make it forced from natural by setting duct fan to air ducts). If, after smoking, the “checkers” breathe just as freely, the ventilation works!

The construction of a cellar - a separate, semi-buried, ground, or located inside the house in the basement - is not a very laborious process, but requires careful attention.

The cellar (storage) in the country is a necessary and obligatory premise, the construction of which can be done with your own hands, while the main condition is to perform all the steps step by step, according to the instructions.

What requirements must the cellar meet?

The direct purpose of the cellar in the country is the storage of grown crops and various canned products in it. It is because of this that many confuse it with a basement.

Although there is much in common between these premises, there is also a significant difference - this is their location. The basement is located in the basement of a private house, while the cellar is a separate building. It can be arranged in such a way that it will be invisible on the site, but there are also varieties that, after erection, will become an integral part of landscape design.

In order for the storage shed to be fully consistent with its intended purpose, this room should be built in the country, taking into account some features:

• sufficiently low temperature - ranging from +4℃ to +7℃;
• high air humidity - 80% - 90%;
• lack of windows to prevent sunlight from entering;
• natural circulation of fresh air.

Thanks to the constant maintenance of such conditions, vegetables and fruits in the cellar will retain their beneficial properties for a long period.

Storage types

Depending on the location on the plot, there are several types of cellars. At the same time, the type of future construction will have to be chosen not only based on the personal preferences of the owner, but also on how close groundwater passes to the soil surface.

Ground storage

Ground (in some sources - above ground) - the most common type of cellar, since such a structure can be erected even in a site subject to frequent waterlogging or located in a lowland. In addition, the ground storage has distinguishing feature- this building does not provide for overlap, which makes it simple and quite economical when building with your own hands.

Some cellar owners still put a gable wooden roof on the building. Often you can find a ground cellar, built by yourself, which looks like a small wooden house.

For reference! Most often, the structure is disguised under a thick layer of earth, where only the entrance door remains. Lawn grass or other types of plants are planted upstairs, the roots of which keep the soil from sprinkling.

Semi-recessed design

This type of structure is the most optimal for the construction of a storage facility for fruits and vegetables. Outwardly, it is similar to the ground structure, but differs in that only part of the structure protrudes above the soil surface, while the other is located below it. As a rule, the depth of the pit into which the structure goes is no more than 1.5 meters.

The door to the semi-buried storage is installed below the soil surface and is carefully insulated. In addition, choosing this type of storage shed for construction, it is necessary to provide a system for draining melt and rainwater.

Buried storehouse

This type of cellar is most suitable for construction on a site with small size. In this case, the main condition is the low location of groundwater. This type of construction is being built at a depth of about 2 meters from the surface of the earth, but before starting construction, it is imperative to invite specialists to inspect the site selected for the cellar.

Stages of building a storehouse

In order to understand how to build a cellar with your own hands, you should disassemble phased construction the most difficult of the presented types of storehouse - recessed. At the same time, materials and individual structural elements, depending on the preference of the owner, can be changed, but the very essence of the construction will be the same.

Pit construction

The construction of the cellar should begin with the preparation of the foundation pit, the size of which will depend on the dimensions of the future premises. In addition, approximately 0.5 meters are added to them on each side for the construction of walls.

To properly dig a pit, you must first put the markup. To do this, wooden stakes are driven into the corners of the future recess, onto which a cord is pulled.

After that, the top layer of turf is removed along the entire perimeter of the marking, which can later be useful for masking the storehouse, and a hole of the required depth is dug. Then all the sides of the pit should be leveled, and its bottom should be carefully tamped.

Foundation laying

Depending on how close the groundwater passes to the future structure, the question will be decided how to cover the bottom of the pit. If they are located much lower than the cellar, compacted sand or gravel can serve as the base of the room.

Attention! If the danger of flooding of the storehouse still exists, it is necessary to cover the inner sides of the pit with a layer of waterproofing material, on top of which the foundation is laid.

In order to make it, it is necessary to tie a frame from reinforcement rods, which rises with the help of bricks. Next, beacons are installed around the entire perimeter of the lower part of the pit, and its bottom is poured with cement mortar, the thickness of which should be approximately 0.04 meters. Then you should wait a few weeks until the foundation is completely dry.

The erection of the walls of the storehouse

After the foundation has hardened and the sides of the pit have been previously covered with a layer of waterproofing material, you can begin to build the walls of the future cellar. Most often, bricks, cinder blocks or concrete blocks are used for this.

The walls begin to fold from the corners to the sides. For fixing, cement mortar or clay is used, while the thickness of the seams should not exceed 12 mm. In order for the walls to be even and strong, steel bars are embedded in the solution every 3 rows of material and measurements are taken using building level and plumb.

If the building provides for an entrance not through a hatch hole, but through a door, then one of the walls leaves room for a doorway.

Floor construction

One of the most common flooring options for a summer cottage is a wooden frame. It can be assembled from boards (section 50x00 mm) and pieces of plywood (thickness 10 mm) in such a way that a domed shape is obtained.

The finished frame is installed on the walls of the building and covered with plywood sheets. A mesh of reinforcement bars is knitted over them, which is lifted with the help of small bars. After that, the entire floor area is poured with concrete mortar, and no work is performed until it is completely solidified.

Entry-exit arrangement

To equip the entrance to the vault, two brick walls are laid out from the doorway left during the construction so that they go up. The result should be a descent that resembles a corridor. After that, you can start building.

Important! Since the room must constantly maintain a high level of humidity, it is not quite suitable for its intended use. In this case, it is better to give preference to metal structures or lay out concrete steps.

Most often, cellar doors are made of wooden planks, having previously treated them with an antiseptic. They are mounted on metal hinges that are fixed to a frame built into the doorway.

Insulation and waterproofing from the outside

After the concrete on the floor of the storage shed has completely hardened, it is necessary to thoroughly insulate it. For this, sheet polystyrene foam is most suitable, but you can pick up more cheap option, for example, clay with sawdust or straw.

Before the concrete floor is insulated, it should be covered with sheets of waterproofing material. Then, a layer of clay mixture is tightly applied to the entire surface of the roof, preferably at least 0.1 meters thick.

After the mortar hardens, the overlap should be covered again with water-repellent materials - roofing material or a dense film - in several layers. Then the whole structure is covered from above with fertile turf, on which you can land lawn grass or ornamental plants.

Interior decoration

A self-built cellar must be finished from the inside. The material for this should also be selected taking into account the location of groundwater. Most often, the walls and floor of the room remain intact after construction, but it is necessary to ensure the circulation of fresh air and conduct electricity in the storehouse.

To ensure that fresh air is always present in the storage and there is no dampness, 2 pipes are installed - supply and exhaust. At the same time, in a self-built ground cellar-house, the supply pipe is located at the bottom, and the exhaust pipe is at the top of the building. In a recessed storehouse, the entire ventilation system is installed at the top.

Regardless of the type of cellar, electricity is provided in the room with additional precautions.

Attention! All wiring must be wrapped in two layers of insulation, and light sources are covered with special caps. At the same time, it is highly undesirable to install sockets inside the storage.

A visual aid for building a cellar with your own hands

As practice shows, it is not difficult to build a cellar on your own. At the same time, the material can be selected from improvised means, which will significantly reduce construction costs.

For example, you can build a cellar with your own hands from brick, which remained after the dismantling of a building. Also, many owners of summer cottages are building ground sheds from old boards.

How to build a cellar with your own hands, you can watch the video:

2018-03-14

In order for the cellar to always remain dry and the temperature in it to be stable, its construction should be carried out in compliance with certain rules and requirements. The work ahead is quite voluminous, but in the future it will pay off with interest.

The cellar can be located both away from other buildings, and located under the house, garage, bathhouse or barn. The storage located under the building allows you to save space on the site, and even use it in winter time they will be much more comfortable.

If it is decided to build it in an open area, then you should choose a higher place - there will be constant dampness in the storage located in the lowland. It is desirable that a separate cellar is located in the shade. In that case, in summer time it will warm up less.

In order to avoid the collapse of buildings, in no case should a separate cellar be located closer than half a meter from their walls.

Types of cellars

The decisive factor in choosing the type of cellar is ground water level . If the aquifer runs too close, spring floods will flood your food stocks every year. Moreover, no drainage system will save - the more you pump out water, the faster the ducts will erode, and every year there will be more and more of it in the cellar.

So that during floods it is not flooded, it should be located 0.5 m above this level. To determine how close the groundwater is to the surface, you can use:

• garden drill: 2.5 m long or more;

• spoon drill: they drill wells under water, but you can also use it for such a measurement.

After drilling, the well should stand still for at least a day. Next, the water level is measured using a long rod lowered into the well. Depending on the result obtained, they decide which type of cellar can be built on the site:

• underground: a standard cellar located in a dry area, most often deepens by 2.5-3 m;
• semi-submerged; less demanding on the soil, its average depth is 1 m;
• bulk: built on swampy soils where the groundwater level is very high;
• a cellar on a slope, a kind of bulk, is used quite rarely.

To protect against frost heaving of the soil and keep warm in storage cellar depth must necessarily be 0.5 m below the level of its freezing.

Cellar construction in stages

The cellar should be built only in summer - at this time, groundwater sinks to the greatest depth. So that the open cellar is not flooded with water, work is carried out only in dry weather. If it still rains, the pit is temporarily covered with polyethylene.

Pit preparation

Floor construction

It is undesirable to fill the floors in the cellar with concrete. The soil located below the freezing depth will be the main (and in the case of the cellar, taken out of the buildings) and the only source of heat in winter and cold in summer.

clay castle

Our ancestors have long used compacted greasy clay for waterproofing foundations and basements. Of course, it will not save from the rise of groundwater, but clay is able to protect completely from capillary moisture, which constantly penetrates through the thickness of the soil. Such protection is called clay castle .

To create it, clay is laid in layers:

• on the bottom, the height of the castle is 0.4 m;

• wall thickness 0.25-0.3 m.

In order for the clay to become plastic, it is pre-soaked and left for a while to soak. The ideal option will be harvested in the fall. During the winter in the open air, it will pick up enough moisture, and it will be easy to work with it.

It should not crumble, but it should not flow out of the fingers either. Lay the clay with the help of adjustable formwork in small layers. You can start working with a new layer if it has dried to the consistency of plasticine.

The quality of clay will be much higher if 20% lime is added to it.

wall decoration

The walls can be made of brick, concrete, buta or asbestos cement sheets. Thickness concrete wall should be 5 cm, buta - 25 cm. To protect against capillary moisture, they are coated before finishing bituminous mastic, hot bitumen or paste over roll materials(roofing felt, roofing felt, etc.).

A vertical formwork is prepared for pouring concrete. To create a waterproof film, the wall can be additionally plastered cement-sand mortar- to iron. The ratio of sand and cement in this case is 1:1. To prevent cracking, lime is added to the solution (about 1/10 of the cement).

Be sure to insulate the hatch or door leading to the cellar. They should fit as tightly as possible and not have gaps. They are made two-layer and edged with a bar or a metal corner filled with any heat-insulating material (for example, polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene).

Ventilation

Since most vegetables should be stored in dry, ventilated areas, the cellar must be equipped with natural ventilation. To do this, perform the following work:

• exhaust and supply pipes are installed in the cellar:

Pros and cons of freestanding cellars

Separate buildings have significant disadvantages:

1. Such storage facilities should be equipped with a ground part - an entrance and a roof, which significantly increases the cost of their construction.
2. The inconvenience of using winter period: the passage to them will need to be cleared of snow. Plus, in severe frosts, in order not to catch a cold, it is often undesirable to open them.

But there are also positive aspects of having a cellar located outside the house. The temperature in the underground under the heated building is always much higher than in the cellar. Therefore, vegetables and fruits are stored in it only until the end of winter - by spring, potatoes, carrots and other vegetables begin to sprout, and fruits begin to flake. In a separate cellar, they are perfectly stored until the end of summer. Plus, if there is an underground in the house, rodents start up faster in it. If stocks are stored in a free-standing storage, the likelihood of them coming into the house is reduced.

If the land plot is small, and there is no place on it to build a free-standing cellar, you can use the advice of the author of this video and make a mini-cellar with your own hands:

It is hard to imagine modern house or a personal plot without a cellar. This structure allows you to save the harvest and preservation until spring. Sample project the cellar assumes its external execution. This free-standing structure, creating a unique atmosphere of a rural house, gives the site a cosiness.

The following two concepts are distinguished:

• cellar;
• basement.

The basement is arranged in the house under the floor and can serve as a storage room or any other room. The cellar has a very specific purpose - to be a storehouse for agricultural products and conservation.

To ensure the reliable preservation of food, the cellar must meet the requirements:

1. Maintain optimal temperature conditions at any time of the year.
2. Create a microclimate, preventing drying and waterlogging of products.
3. Constant supply of fresh air to remove the smell of gases.
4. Reliability and spaciousness of racks and shelves.
5. Prevent rodents and insects from entering the premises.
6. Reliable waterproofing system.
7. Free access to provisions, easy accessibility.

Requirements for materials and construction are also imposed:

• structural strength;
• durability of materials;
• weather resistance;
• good waterproofing;
• reliable ventilation system.

Types of cellars

The method can be divided into three types:

• buried;
• semi-submerged;
• ground.

According to the location relative to the house, they distinguish:

• underground;
• wall-mounted;
• separate cellar.

A free-standing structure is usually built into a natural hill. If the personal plot is located on a plain, the cellar is partially or completely dug into the ground, artificially creating a mound above it.

The building must be equipped with a vestibule. This requirement is due to the fact that cold air may damage the safety of provisions. Draft protection is also required. In the cellar, stocks are arranged in accordance with the storage temperature, according to the principle: the lower the shelf, the colder.

Important! Shaded areas will be a good location for the backyard cellar. front door it is recommended to have a face to the north or northeast side. This technique will help to avoid overheating of the room from the scorching sun in summer.

For a standard family of four, a storage space of 7 square meters. The burial may be large sizes. It all depends on the needs and financial capabilities of the owner.

buried cellar

Buried structures include structures that are completely below the surface of the earth.

If a recessed structure is built under the floor of the house, this is a basement. A typical project includes:

• waterproofed walls and floor;
• shelves and racks;
• ventilation vents;
• ladder;

The interfloor ceiling of the basement must have increased strength, therefore, most often, it is concreted. The entrance to the storage can be arranged both from the inside of the house and from the outside. In the second case, a recessed platform with a ladder is additionally equipped. The walls are made of brick, cinder block or wood. But monolithic jellied structures are quite acceptable. This arrangement is the most common.

A detached underground cellar is being built as a separate building. The design scheme is quite simple. A pit is being prepared on the site, about two meters deep. Then the floor is drained and the walls covered with a waterproofing are equipped. The ceiling is made of fairly light materials: beams covered with a mixture of clay and straw. The thickness of such a shelter is 40-50 cm. The floor is protected by a layer of clay, up to 15 cm high. drainage system 50 cm thick. The design of a cellar with a cellar is the most complex design. This building consists of underground and above-ground parts. The recessed part is used directly as a storage for products. The above-ground part (house) can be used for storage of household equipment. In this way, the equipped cellar protects the basement very well from precipitation and temperature changes.

Semi-buried cellar

The semi-buried structure of the cellar can be built both on the plain and on the hilly terrain. The basement is deepened into the ground by 75-150 cm. The walls are made of brick, cinder block or concrete. The ceiling is covered with beams and filled with clay coating, on top of which a waterproofing layer of roofing material is laid. The surface of the semi-buried structure is covered with earth. This allows you to maintain approximately the same temperature in the cellar in winter and summer.

ground cellar

An above-ground facility for food storage is built in cases of high groundwater. The entire building must be above the ground, or with a slight depression of up to 50 cm.

The most important task in the construction of this type of structure is to achieve the effect of a thermos. Most often, an earthen layer up to 1 meter high is poured over the cellar. The height of the cellar built above the ground is usually 2 meters.

Important! The facade of the ground cellar is carefully insulated so that the temperature regime inside the storage always remains the same.

An interesting type of ground cellar is a glacier. A feature of its construction is a deepening in the ground by 40-50 cm for storing ice. Hence, the name is. It is very important to equip in the glacier high-quality ventilation.

Wine cellar

The wine cellar is usually built in the basement of the house. The area of ​​such storage can be 7-10 square meters. A very important condition is the observance of temperature and humidity. The temperature in the wine cellar should be between 12-16 degrees. Humidity should be maintained at 70%.

Such a cellar should be located away from workshops and the garage to avoid exposure to vibration. The lining is just as important. All materials must be safe and environmentally friendly, and must not emit odors. The walls must be carefully covered with thermal insulation materials. The space is equipped with racks with cutouts for bottles or kegs. best material for the construction of walls is a brick, and for the embankment of the floor - sand.

Cellar construction

Before proceeding directly to the construction of the storage, it is necessary to choose a place for the construction of the cellar. A place for the construction of a food storage may well be a site with a hill where atmospheric moisture cannot enter and accumulate. With high groundwater, it is necessary to build a ground cellar.

Advice!It is recommended to equip a semi-underground building with a groundwater height of 1.5 m.

The construction of the cellar is carried out in stages:

1. Pit preparation.
2. Laying a drainage cushion made of gravel, expanded clay, crushed stone, sand.
3. Laying a waterproofing layer.
4. Reinforcement and concreting of the floor.
5. Preparation of formwork for the construction of walls.
6. Fittings installation.
7. Wall concreting.
8. Vibrator seal.
9. External waterproofing.
10. Internal waterproofing.
11. Ceiling and wall plastering, cladding.
12. Arrangement of space with racks and shelves.
13. Ventilation equipment.
14. Ceiling arrangement.

Basic principles when laying a cellar

Foundation laying

1. The size of the pit along the perimeter must be increased by 30-40 cm from the actual size.
2. The minimum foundation depth is 30cm.
3. The perimeter is strengthened with formwork to prevent shedding of the earth.
4. At the corners, poles 10 cm high are installed.

After the installation of the foundation, they proceed to waterproofing and pouring the floor with concrete. Waterproofing is equipped with a layer of crushed stone, gravel or construction waste. For greater effect, dry mixtures are poured with heated bitumen. Sheets of roofing material are laid on top. On top of the waterproofing layer, the basement cellar floor is covered with sand.

Walling

If the site has wet soil, the walls of the cellar are mounted from reinforced concrete grade 350. The most suitable replacement for concrete is brickwork or stone. But the use of these building materials recommended on dry soils. Stages of installation of basement walls:

1. Formwork installation.
2. Reinforcing mesh installation.
3. Layered pouring of concrete with careful compaction.
4. The top of the reinforcement sheet is attached to the ceiling.
5. After thorough and prolonged drying, the formwork can be disassembled. Dismantling should be done after 4 weeks.

Arrangement of the vestibule

A vestibule with two doors is built in front of the vault. The air that accumulates in the vestibule acts as thermal insulation. Thanks to him, the necessary microclimate is created in the storage. When creating a cellar scheme, you need to carefully consider the number of steps in the stairs. The width of each tread is at least 200mm. A well-designed space will provide access and accessibility to any shelf and storage shelving.

Ceiling

The basement ceiling is made using the method of non-removable formwork. Concrete grade 250 is used as the main material. Ceiling installation steps:

1. From wooden beams a transverse frame is made.
2. A reinforcing mesh with 20 cm cells is laid on top of the frame.
3. The wall fittings are connected to the ceiling fittings using a knitting wire.
4. Formwork is being built.
5. Concrete pouring takes place in several stages. Each layer must be carefully compacted and allowed to dry.

Full solidification of the ceiling fill occurs after 3 weeks.

Waterproofing

The basement requires thorough waterproofing. The device of the moisture-proof layer in the cellar is carried out using mastic and bituminous liquid mixtures.

Sheets of roofing material are welded over the walls, which are carefully connected with flooring, additionally smearing the seams with mastic. The outer walls and ceiling are protected with polystyrene boards. The ceiling is insulated with a double layer of roofing material. A layer of crushed stone with sand is poured on top. Then, geotextiles are laid. The final covering is the earth shaft. The soil is a natural thermal insulation. To strengthen the earth embankment, it is necessary to plant ground cover plants with a developed root system.

In the garage

Cellar ventilation

Without constant air exchange, food will not be stored indoors. Therefore, a very important stage in the arrangement of the cellar is the installation of a ventilation system. The principle of arranging ventilation:

1. Is fixed exhaust pipe. It must be fixed in the highest place under the ceiling.
2. The supply pipe must be placed slightly above the floor covering.
3. The ends of the pipes are brought out.
4. The formed vents in the walls between the pipes must be insulated with mounting foam.
5. Visors from moisture and a net from rodents and insects are hung on the outer ends of the pipes.

Ventilation vents can be made of concrete. Using formwork, mount the pipe and insulate with mastic and roofing material.

Facade decoration

The facade of the outer cellar must meet the increased requirements for the durability of the material. In addition, the door must fit snugly, excluding the occurrence of drafts.

A cozy mound-cellar fits perfectly into the landscape of any personal plot. Having laid out a beautiful path to the basement and clad the facade of the storage with natural natural stone, an ordinary cellar will turn into the most beautiful part of the site.

Cellars are recessed (underground), semi-recessed (semi-underground) and ground. As additional types, the simplest storages can be distinguished - piles, glaciers, pits, etc. We will tell you about the main types of cellars and introduce you to the drawings and descriptions of the construction.

underground cellars

First, we will consider the construction of buried cellars, that is, those that are completely underground. They can be built only in those places where groundwater is at great depths.

Earth cellar construction technology

This type is very simple design, but despite this, it has excellent performance properties. This cellar technology requires minimal material costs; for their construction, mainly local materials are used. On fig. the device of an earthen cellar is shown.

It can be built if the groundwater lies at a depth of at least 2-2.5 m, since the height of such a cellar from the base to the floor is 1.8 m. raise the bottom of the cellar.

The pit is dug in such a way that its walls have a slight slope - in this case, they will crumble less.

At the bottom of the pit, it is necessary to lay compacted crushed stone soaked in hot bitumen in a layer 5 cm thick, which will be the base of the cellar floor. This is done in order to exclude capillary moisture. Next, an adobe floor is laid, with the addition of fine brick rubble, a floor 8 ~ 10 cm thick.

Earth cellar: 1. - bins; 2. - drainage ditch; 3. - ventilation pipe; 4. - shelves; 5. - adobe floor.

The walls of the pit are usually sheathed with boards, slabs or wattle, especially in sandy soil, it is clear why. It is best to make a removable skin so that in the summer you can take it apart and dry it in the sun. This will increase its service life and, consequently, improve the quality of stored products.

The ceiling is made of poles or a basement, which are covered with clay-straw lubricant on top and covered with earth for thermal insulation purposes. The thickness of the earth layer is approximately 0.3-0.4 m. The roof is made gable, lowered to the surface of the earth so that the overhangs overlap the pit by at least 50 cm from all sides. The material for the roof can be hewn slab, clay straw, branches, reeds and any other local material. In case of severe frosts the roof can be insulated with peat, dry foliage, etc. The roof ridge is made of edged boards. Strips of roofing material or roofing felt are placed under the ridge.

The design provides for one ventilation pipe made of boards tightly fitted to each other. Inside the cellar is equipped with bins and shelves.

It is convenient when the bins are placed on one side of the aisle, and the shelves are on the other.

In the bins make a slatted floor for ventilation. Optimal Height bins - 1m. Shelves are placed at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other in height. The final touch is a drainage ditch around the cellar with a depth of about 50 cm, and the cellar is ready for use.

Cellar construction technology from asbestos-cement sheets

Such a cellar can only be built in dry soils. It is made not only quadrangular, but six-, eight- and decagonal.

Construction takes only a few days.

Asbestos-cement sheets or slabs have standard dimensions: 1200 X 900 X 10 mm, so the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cellar can be calculated based on the number of its sides. The hexagonal cellar will have an area of ​​4.3 square meters. m, octagonal - 5.7 sq. m, decagonal -7.8 sq. m.

Asbestos-cement sheets can be interconnected using metal corners measuring 40 X 40 mm (50 X 50 mm) or strip iron.

Fastening is carried out on bolts. Sheets are cut with a hacksaw.

The construction of the cellar begins, as usual, with a foundation pit. After the excavation is ready, the installation of the lower row of asbestos-cement slabs is done. They are connected to each other with the help of corners on bolts and nuts. The result is a closed structure that has the form of a polygon in plan.

cellar from asbestos-cement sheets: 1. - asbestos-cement sheet; 2. - corner; 3. - bolt; 4. - shelf; 5. - cross member; 6. - hatch.

The base is made of concrete. While the concrete has not yet hardened, the assembled asbestos-cement walls are gently and evenly pressed into the concrete base of the floor to a depth of about 10 cm. Then they are left for 5-7 days so that the concrete hardens and the lower tier of the walls is firmly fixed, after which the next slabs are attached to it tiers. The number and height of the slabs depend on the chosen depth of the cellar. The seams between the plates are rubbed with cement mortar.

If the floor of the cellar is earthen, then a foundation is made under the lower tier of asbestos-cement slabs along the perimeter of the cellar. The depth of the foundation is 30 cm, the width is 40 cm. The walls are covered from the outside with a layer of hot bitumen in two steps. Surfaces are pre-cleaned and primed.

The ceiling is also made of asbestos-cement sheets: on the ends of the corners of two oppositely lying plates, two channels are laid parallel to each other and the cellar axis passing through the middle of these opposite sheets. Overlapping sheets are attached to the channels. They should also be primed and covered with two layers of hot bitumen.

An inlet in the form of a hatch is arranged in the ceiling of the cellar between two channels. It is made double from sheet steel with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm, and the strapping is made from angle steel. Some well-known heat-insulating material is placed between the manhole covers. The hatch does not have to be made by welding, it can be assembled on bolts and nuts. The dimensions of the hatch are 60 X 60 or 75 x 75 cm. A metal or wooden ladder is attached to the hatch.

Ventilation is provided by two pipes. One is brought out higher, the second is set so that it is located 5-10 cm above the ceiling. The diameter of the pipes is about 10 cm. The bottom pipe is closed metal mesh with small cells to protect against penetration into the cellar of rodents. Inside the walls are covered water-based paint or lime mortar. Along the inner perimeter of the cellar, you can make shelves on brackets from metal corners. They are cut and bent so that the desired shape is obtained. The cellar can be divided into cells, the same asbestos-cement sheets will serve as partitions.

If the cellar is not located under the house, but stands separately on the site, a canopy is made above it to protect it from atmospheric precipitation, and along the perimeter - a blind area made of clay or concrete. The blind area has a slope in the opposite direction from the cellar at an angle of 2-5 °.

Cellar construction technology with a cellar

A cellar with a cellar, or, as they say, with a cellar, is a time-tested structure that is quite common in individual construction. It consists of two parts: above ground (cellar) and underground (actual cellar).

The cellar is buried about 2 m underground, so it is always cool in summer, and much warmer in winter than outside. In addition, the cellar creates an additional screen from the penetration of precipitation and exposure to low and high temperatures.

The cellar is usually used as an additional temporary storage for vegetables and as a storage room for garden tools, lumber, etc.

The cellar is designed for long-term use, so its walls are built from durable materials, from monolithic concrete 20-30 cm thick, stone or brick (walls 25-30 cm thick), slab 6-8 cm thick, logs 12-18 cm in diameter. All materials are reliably isolated. The method of waterproofing is determined by the specific conditions of the construction site.

The space between the walls of the cellar and the walls of the pit is called the sinus. This space is clogged with clay, filling it in layers of 20-30 cm and compacting the layers, that is, they make a side clay castle.

If the cellar is built in moist soil, then pits are usually made along its perimeter - small depressions for collecting water, 20-30 cm deep. As water accumulates, it must be scooped out of the pits.

Cellar with a cellar: a - general view of the cellar; b - cellar plan; c - incision; 1 - insulation; 2 - whitewash; 3 - blind area; 4 - hot bituminous coating (2 mm); 5 - clay castle; 6 - rubble concrete.

The base is made multi-layered in two steps. The bottom of the pit should be leveled and compacted tightly. For the purpose of drainage, a layer of crushed stone 8-10 cm thick is poured onto the bottom prepared in this way, on which a layer of crumpled clay 2-3 cm thick is laid. Oily clay is more suitable for this purpose. The clay layer should also be leveled and compacted. Then they make a concrete pour 10 cm thick. After the concrete has set, and this will take 10-15 days, a cement-sand screed 5 cm thick is placed on the concrete preparation and smoothed with a steel trowel. The cover is made durable. Expanded clay, brick crushed stone (previously sifted) are most often used to insulate the floor, moss can be used. Thermal insulation materials they are laid on clay grease 3 cm thick. The cellar is equipped with a hatch measuring 70 x 70 cm. A ladder is installed under the hatch. For greater stability and ease of use, it is recommended to install the ladder at an angle.

Cellar walls can be made from a variety of materials. Brick, shell rock, stone are most often used, cellar walls made of wood (sanded slab about 5 cm thick), adobe, etc. are allowed. The roof of the cellar is usually gable, lightweight.

An important rule: to protect the walls from precipitation, wide overhangs are made.

The roof is made of solid board lathing, covered with roofing material or asbestos-cement sheets.

On the outside of the walls of the cellar, a clay-crushed stone pavement is made with a width of at least 1-1.2 m with a slope of 1:10. The walls of the cellar are deepened by 50-70 cm. The door for the cellar is made of thick, tightly fitting boards with a thickness of at least 4-5 cm.

A few more words about ventilation. In order to create a favorable temperature and humidity regime, such a cellar should have a two-channel ventilation pipe. Only in this case can effective air exchange be expected.

Cellar in the garage: construction technology

The cellar in the garage saves land space, in urban conditions it is almost unique opportunity to have it. A small comment for motorists: such a cellar can be adapted for a viewing hole.

Its depth is usually 1.8-1.9 m.

If the soil is wet and the groundwater level is quite high, then the walls of the cellar are made of monolithic concrete of increased density and water resistance.

In dry soils, lightweight walls can be made. For this purpose, standard asbestos-cement corrugated sheets of roofing slate are suitable, which are laid out in at least two layers and attached to wooden frame screws. This is done for greater strength of the walls. Between themselves, the sheets are glued together with bituminous mastic or cement-casein glue.

Waterproofing work consists in the fact that the enclosing structures are coated twice with hot bitumen. Surfaces are pre-primed.

Ventilation is provided either by a ventilation pipe with two channels, or by a hatch device, which, in addition to the usual cover, is equipped with a grill through which air circulates.

When especially low temperatures the hatch can be insulated by covering the grate with an old wadded blanket or something similar.

Stone cellar construction technology

Stone cellar - the most reliable and durable storage for various kinds agricultural products. Previously, such cellars were built in every peasant yard, so they are sometimes called peasant. There are known cases of operation of such cellars for more than a hundred years without any overhaul. This is the extent to which the art of the masters was developed! We will also try to build a stone cellar, which will also serve our grandchildren.

The best material for construction is flagstone - limestone, common in the Central Chernozem regions, where it is cheap and available. It is placed on a clay mortar, in which sand is not added, but chaff is added and a small amount of lime. The solution is so strong that not every nail can be driven into it.

A guarantee of the durability of the building will be a device in a dry place, where groundwater does not reach the floor level by at least 70 cm.

There is one important condition that must be met in order to obtain the desired result - you can build only in the dry season, so that the open pit does not get wet and is not washed out by rains. On all sides of the walls and foundation, a clay castle is arranged for waterproofing. The thickness of the clay castle is 20-25 cm. The floor in the stone cellar is made of adobe with rammed rubble or pieces and fragments of quarry stone ranging in size from 2 to 8 cm.

Overlapping is done in the form of a vault. For laying the vault, a special wooden formwork with circles is needed. Such a formwork has an arched shape convex upwards and rests on circles - specially cut boards spanning a span.

The vault is laid out simultaneously on both sides from the edges to the center. There should be an odd number of stones (bricks) in the masonry. In the center, the masonry is completed by the so-called keystone, which wedged the vault, which ensures the strength and reliability of the entire structure. The main thing in this matter is the ability to calculate the design of the vault and lay the keystone with a firm hand. If you want to tilt the bricks, you need to put small flat stones under them.

Outside, the vaulted ceiling is poured with a thick lime mortar, a layer of clay grease 8 cm thick is placed on top, then wood ash along with coals 10 cm thick for thermal insulation, and on top of everything - clay or dry earth. To descend into the cellar, you need a staircase with stone steps, but, in extreme cases, made of durable lumber. In addition to the usual cellar with earth embankment, you can make a cellar above the stone cellar, which will provide additional convenience for use. The cellar is laid out from the same flagstone on clay mortar. Thus, it will reliably protect the cellar and become an additional room for storing food and equipment. On all sides, the cellars arrange shallow drainage grooves that protect against the accumulation and penetration of melt and rainwater, as well as a wide sandy or clay-gravel pavement. Modern stone cellars are built according to the same model, only the material is red burnt brick. The ceiling is made of slab, thermal insulation is provided by clay grease and layers of earth on top.

Brick cellar: a - section; b - cellar plan; 1 - wall; 2 - concrete; 3 - soil compacted with crushed stone; 4 - waterproofing layer.

Ground cellars

Ground cellars are built if groundwater occurs at a depth of less than 0.5 m from the surface of the earth.

Wall cellar construction technology

The name of this cellar speaks for itself. Such a cellar is attached to the main wall of the house. On fig. one of the variants of such a cellar is shown.

The walls of the cellar are laid out of red burnt brick, monolithic concrete or flagstone. The thickness of the walls is 25 cm, that is, one brick. When laying, a conventional masonry cement-sand mortar is used.

The walls on both sides are plastered with cement mortar, and on the outside they are additionally waterproofed with hot bituminous coating in two layers. For the installation of the floor, the earthen base is leveled, cleaned and concrete preparation is made 10-15 cm thick. After the concrete has hardened (approximately within a week), a cement floor 5 cm thick is arranged.

Wall cellar: 1.- ventilation pipe; 2. - roofing material; 3. - wall of the house; 4. - overlap; 5. - bin; 6 - compacted crushed stone; 7 - blind area; 8 - bituminous coating; 9 - embankment; ten - Brick wall cellars.

To cover the cellar, a thick slab with hewn edges is used.

A layer of crumpled clay and two layers of roofing material are placed on top. Then they make an embankment with peat or dry earth, which is sown with grass. On all sides of the cellar, a blind area and a drainage groove are made at a distance of 1 ~ 1.5 m. Potatoes and vegetables are stored in lattice bins, which are raised 10 cm above the floor level. For non-bulk products, the cellar is equipped with shelves.

Cellar construction technology

This, one might say, is a classic of the genre, conjuring up pictures of merchant Moscow. A vegetable storehouse is an indispensable thing in conditions of a high level of groundwater, in low-lying, waterlogged places. The design of the storage shed is simple and affordable, tested by many years of experience. It can be successfully used not only by gardeners, but also by small vegetable farms, since the size of the storehouse can vary within a fairly wide range.

On the household plots the land space is usually small, so the recommended dimensions of the storehouse are 3-4 m in length and 3.3-3.8 m in width.

In collective farms for storing vegetables, large storage sheds can be made, measuring 20-24 m in length and 7~8 m in width. It is not recommended to make storage sheds of a larger area, because it becomes difficult to maintain the necessary temperature and humidity conditions in them and this is inconvenient to use.

The height of the storehouse should not exceed 2 m in its highest part, because otherwise the vegetables will freeze. The storehouse looks like a squat structure like a hut. On fig. a vegetable shed and some elements of its design are depicted.

For ease of use, aisles are arranged inside the storehouse: there are two in large storehouses, and one in small ones. It is enough to make passages 60-70 cm wide. The storage shed has a frame structure. The frame is made of logs with a diameter of 13-18 and 18-22 cm. Logs-pillars must be sanded. They are dug into the ground to a depth of about 1 m, and the upper ends are tied together with longitudinal long poles or logs. To make such a strapping, the tops of the log-pillars are hacked into a spike, and then strapping logs (poles) are placed on them.

Vegetable storehouse: 1. - bin; 2. - soil embankment; 3. - roofing material; 4. - crate; 5. - hatch.

Those parts of the logs that are in contact with the ground must be coated with hot bitumen or burned. This applies to the lower ends of the frame logs and the lower strapping logs. Such measures will extend their service life by several years.

Ceiling overlap in the design of the storehouse is not provided, and this circumstance significantly reduces the material and time costs for its construction.

With minimal building skills, a storage shed can be erected in 7-10 days.

The roof of the storehouse is constructed from boards, on which a continuous crate is made of hewn slabs. For waterproofing, sheets of roofing material are placed on top in two layers. The roof is covered with earth or peat with a layer 30-40 cm thick. and lowered almost to the very ground, so that in winter snow lingers on it, providing additional thermal insulation.The end sides of the structure are sheathed with boards in two rows.A layer of roofing material is laid between the boards so that there are no drafts in the room.A small door with a vestibule is arranged on one of the end sides The manhole door is also insulated.

Ventilation in the storehouse is carried out through an exhaust device: a wooden box with a regulator valve located near the roof ridge. In the event that the storehouse has too elongated shape, make two ventilation pipes: supply and exhaust. To protect the structure from melt and rainwater, a shallow drainage ditch is made around it.

Cellar construction technology with embankment

If soil conditions do not allow you to build a buried or semi-buried cellar, you can build a ground cellar with a dike and even give it a decorative function by planting ornamental plants on top or arranging an alpine hill.

At the base of the cellar, sand and gravel preparation is arranged, on which a waterproofing layer of crumpled clay is placed. The floor is laid out of burnt brick on the edge, which is called a Christmas tree. The consumption of bricks with this method of laying is 64 pieces per 1 m2 of floor.

The walls are built of wood (logs or thick slabs) with hewn edges. The cracks are caulked with moss to protect against drafts. In addition, moss has the ability to absorb unpleasant odors. For the purpose of waterproofing from ground and capillary moisture, external walls are coated with hot bitumen or bituminous mastic in two steps, then pasted over with sheets of roofing material. The ceiling of the cellar is made of boards or hewn slabs, covered with clay straw with a layer of about 5 cm on top and sheets of roofing material, in extreme cases, with plastic wrap. Then the whole cellar is covered with earth, which is either sown with grass or covered with sod.

Ground cellar with embankment: 1 - sand and gravel preparation; 2 - embankment; 3 - clay-straw; 4 - walls made of wood (slab); 5 - brick floor; 6 - waterproofing layer; 7 - clay castle.

Ventilation is carried out through a ventilation pipe with two channels. The entrance to the cellar is equipped with a double door. Inside the cellar, lattice bins and shelves are installed.

Cellar operation

In order for the cellar to serve for a long time, it is necessary to maintain it in working condition. There are some cellar care rules that must be followed in order to extend their life.

Temperature and humidity control

The condition of the air in the cellar requires constant monitoring. One of the most important characteristics is the relative humidity of the air. It is known that for storage of potatoes, the characteristics of the air condition are as follows: temperature + 2 -5 ° C, relative humidity 85-95%. If the humidity is below the set value, the potato dries out and shrivels. With higher humidity, condensation may form, which contributes to the germination of tubers and the development of rotting processes, especially when the temperature rises. To control the air temperature, it is advisable to hang a thermometer in the cellar.

In addition to temperature, for normal operating conditions of the cellar, it is necessary to maintain a certain humidity.

An increase in humidity can be noticed by the smell of mustiness, moistening of the walls and ceiling, fogging of products.

To detect the transition to negative temperatures, you can use the old-fashioned way - put a saucer of water in the cellar. When the temperature drops below 0°C, the water in the saucer will freeze.

Cellar gassed

Cellar gassing is a serious problem that its owner occasionally has to face. Most often, gas pollution is caused by the concentration of carbon dioxide (CO2), which has toxic properties, causing suffocation. Dangerous for the human body is the concentration of carbon dioxide in the air more than 10%. You can judge the presence of carbon dioxide with confidence if a match does not light up in the cellar or a candle goes out.

Even more dangerous is the accumulation of swamp gas in the cellar. A swamp gas breakthrough can occur if the cellar is built in low-lying swampy areas. Swamp gas, consisting mainly of methane, forms an explosive mixture with air. At high concentrations, it has a nerve-paralytic effect on human body. In case of detection of gas contamination, it is urgent to ventilate the cellar in the most thorough way. If ventilation is poor and there is no air circulation, it must be created artificially. To do this, you can lower a sheaf of straw or a blanket into the cellar on a rope and create air movement by quickly raising and lowering it.

Condensation control

Condensation in the cellar is very often caused by poor ventilation or poor ceiling insulation. It is necessary to deal with this harmful phenomenon immediately, since both the room itself and the products stored in it suffer from the presence of condensate.

First of all, measures are taken to insulate the ceiling. To do this, you can use any material that has a moisture-absorbing ability and dries quickly. Such materials include forest moss or artificial expanded clay material. Sometimes you have to insulate the walls as well. If this does not help, then condensate and drops from the ceiling are removed using umbrellas made of galvanized iron or plastic film. You can also use waterproof plywood. Special gutters are attached to them for draining water and diverting it into water intake wells. If such a cellar design is not provided, you can use an ordinary bucket. In this case, the cellar must be carefully examined and repaired in the summer.