Armenian forests with their own hands. Do-it-yourself scaffolding - a recipe from FORUMHOUSE. Video: making scaffolding yourself

31.10.2019

Do-it-yourself scaffolding is the easiest and cheapest way to do work at height. We will figure out how to make homemade scaffolding as reliable and sustainable as possible.

Many construction works require to be carried out at height. There are several options for getting scaffolding: rent, order production, do it yourself. The latter option saves a lot of time and money. But the design must be as reliable and safe as possible. We will figure out how to build scaffolding yourself, what material is most preferable and what safety measures must be observed.

from wood

Wood is the most widely used material for self-manufacturing forests. It has a whole range of advantages:

Ease of processing. Working with metal requires certain skills in welding, working with professional power tool etc., which not everyone has. And working with wood is much easier and any builder can handle the processing of this material at an amateur level.
Available tools and fasteners. The work requires the most common set: a hammer, a screwdriver, a screwdriver, a hacksaw, a drill, self-tapping screws, nails. Almost any farm has all this, and if you have to buy something in preparation for work, the costs are low.
Comparative cheapness of the material. Even high-quality wood will cost less than metal pipes. The gain becomes especially noticeable when building a large structure.
Possibility of reuse. At the end construction works wooden scaffolding can be disassembled by putting lumber into work. Metal racks, on the other hand, will almost certainly forever gather dust in a utility block or pantry. Of course, you can then rent them out, but not everyone wants to mess with this business.

Important: in the manufacture of scaffolding, it is better to use high-quality wood materials. First, it will increase the reliability of the design. And secondly, it will allow the use of materials from dismantled scaffolding in the future. But waste wood, albeit bought at a low price, then you only have to throw it away.

There are also some disadvantages. The main one is the much lower resistance of wooden structures to assembly and disassembly. After two or three such cycles, all that remains is to put the boards on firewood. Metal structures tolerate disassembly and subsequent assembly much better.

Therefore, wooden structures are the best choice for those who want to build own house and no further construction work. But for those who have plans to build several objects, we recommend choosing metal scaffolding

From a profile pipe

Structures on the frame metal pipe with plank flooring good choice for the construction of several buildings on one site or for a small construction company. They also have a number of advantages:

The sectional design allows you to build scaffolding as needed. Such structures are much easier to upgrade to new construction tasks.
The ability to quickly dismantle scaffolding and easily move to a new location.
Durability and high strength when properly manufactured.

For the construction of scaffolding, aluminum or steel pipes. The first option is lighter, the second one has higher strength and reliability indicators. Therefore, if you plan to work at high heights or lift a large load on scaffolding (heavy tools or several workers per section), it is better to opt for steel racks. The standard size of a section of such scaffolding is 150 cm high, 100 cm wide and 165 - 200 cm long (depending on tasks).

Which is better: nails or screws?

When choosing fasteners, the question always arises: is it better to take nails or self-tapping screws? Each type of fastener has its own advantages and disadvantages. But the main requirement for fasteners is to ensure the reliability of the connection of scaffolding elements. Otherwise, the structure may simply fall apart at the most crucial moment, and this is already very dangerous for the builder.

For high strength, nails are much better suited.

For their manufacture, relatively soft grades of carbon steels are used, so they bend under load, but do not break off. The brittle hardened steel of self-tapping screws is much harder and can break off under heavy load.

If self-tapping screws are nevertheless chosen, preference should be given to anodized products (they have a greenish-yellow color). Such fasteners are less brittle and more easily endure loads. However, they will still be more brittle than nails. But it is better not to use “black” self-tapping screws made of hardened steel for assembling scaffolding.

The main claim to nails is the difficulty in the process of dismantling scaffolding. To combine the advantages of both types of fasteners, you can use a compromise option: assemble scaffolding using self-tapping screws, and then strengthen the most problematic connections with nails (2-3 each).

To make it easier to remove the nails, this method is used: small pieces of boards of small thickness are placed under them (junk, fragile trimmings can be used). When disassembling, these boards are split, and protruding nail heads can now be easily picked up with a nail puller.

Necessary materials and tools

First of all, let's clarify that we will talk about the manufacture of wood scaffolding. This is the most popular option, which is the easiest to implement on your own. When working with metal racks, the tool kit will have to be supplemented with a grinder, welding machine and some other tools.

First of all, you should pay attention to the quality of the lumber used in the work. It is most preferable to use boards and bars, the manufacture of which went to spruce. The strength of pine wood is about the same, but pine boards should be carefully checked for knots. Pine knots grow in whorls, in such places the wood is greatly weakened. But carefully selected pine lumber will perform just as well as spruce lumber.

Checking the board for strength is very simple. Fold two columns of three bricks each and lay a board on them. Stand on top of the board and jump a few times. If the board does not break, it is quite capable of supporting your weight as an element of the scaffolding structure.

The main elements from which wooden scaffolding is assembled are as follows:

Boards with a thickness of 40 - 50 mm. They will go to the manufacture of flooring.
Bar 100 mm x 100 mm. Racks, thrust braces and other load-bearing structural elements are made from it. You can replace such a beam with a board. The width of the board should be 100 mm or more, the thickness should be 50 m.
A board 30 mm thick (edged) is used for the production of screeds, railings, spacers.

You need to make sure that all lumber is thoroughly dried. The fact is that poorly dried wood can change its shape and warp the structure. Yes, and raw wood weighs more. Since the scaffolding is a temporary structure, it is not necessary to treat the boards with fungicidal compounds and stain.

In addition to lumber, you will need the following set of tools and fasteners:

Measuring tool: tape measure, level, pencil for marking.
Saw for cutting boards and timber. You can get by with a regular hacksaw, but to save time, much better fit Circular Saw.
Fasteners: nails 120 mm, self-tapping screws 120 - 150 mm.
Assembly tools: drill for drilling holes, screwdriver, screwdriver, hammer, nail puller.

If self-tapping screws are used to assemble scaffolding, it is better to drill holes of a smaller diameter for them before twisting. This reduces the risk that the board will burst when screwed in.

A set of materials for construction wooden scaffolding easy enough to find. But in order not to be distracted in the process of work, you need to prepare everything and carefully check it in advance.

DIY scaffolding. Step-by-step instruction

The assembly of scaffolding is carried out in several stages:

The assembly process is not particularly difficult. But at each stage, you need to do everything as carefully as possible, checking the strength of each connection and the correct installation of all elements.

To make it safe to work on scaffolding made by yourself, and the assembly process went quickly, we recommend that you listen to the experience of professional builders:

If there is even the slightest doubt that the strength of the scaffolding is not enough, do not spare the effort and material to install an additional stop or strengthen the connection.
Do not endlessly get involved in increasing the height of forests. Safely wooden scaffolding can carry no more than three tiers. If you need higher ones, use metal structures.

Self-built wooden scaffolding is a great solution for building your own home or holding repair work. With proper erection, they are quite safe, and after construction is completed, they can be dismantled, putting the boards to other needs.

Before you make scaffolding with your own hands, evaluate all the advantages and disadvantages of this structure. Although such home-made auxiliary structures at a construction site help save money, their safety and practicality remain in question. In our article we will tell you how to make wooden scaffolding, and we will comparative analysis traditional inventory forests and these structures.

In the photo do-it-yourself scaffolding

Construction methods

By making temporary structures on your own, you can build several types of auxiliary products that will differ both in purpose and in the materials used for production. Depending on the area of \u200b\u200buse, home-made scaffolding is divided into:

structures for repair and finishing works with a small load on the flooring;
products to perform masonry works with a large load capacity.

Depending on the materials of hand-made forests, there are:

metal;
wooden.

We will consider the manufacturing process of each type of scaffolding separately. But in any case, the greatest attention should be paid to the safety of auxiliary facilities. If the scaffolding manufacturing process was carried out in accordance with all the rules, then there is no doubt about the reliability and functionality of the scaffolding. Before you make scaffolding with your own hands, you need to study normative documentation, because this type of temporary structures must necessarily comply with GOSTs and SNiPs.

Of course, you can buy homemade scaffolding, but this way you cannot be 100% sure of the quality of the materials used to assemble scaffolding, their reliability and compliance with the requirements of current regulatory documents.

Do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood

The most important thing in the manufacture of wooden scaffolding is the observance of the verticality of the rack elements or the desired angle of inclination in the manufacture of low structures from boards. In any case, when making scaffolding from boards with your own hands, you must adhere to this rule. Only in this way can you be sure of the stability and safety of the structure.

In the photo do-it-yourself scaffolding from boards

For the manufacture of vertical load-bearing elements of such structures, it is better to take boards 4 cm thick. But when using a beam of 100x100 mm, the structure will be much stronger and more reliable. In order for the product to be stable and not accidentally fold during operation, it is better to use double diagonal ties in each span. It is better to mount the diagonals so that they are fixed to several racks at once and to the walls of the object.

Homemade wooden scaffolding has one indisputable advantage - the scaffolding material can be used for other purposes after the structure has been dismantled. But do not forget that renting scaffolding will allow you to save your money and time, as well as get the most durable, stable and safe structure that fully meets all the requirements of regulatory documentation.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling wooden scaffolding

The attached drawings for do-it-yourself wooden scaffolding will help you better understand the process. We work in the following order:

We have already figured out how to make scaffolding with our own hands from wood, it remains to calculate the consumption of materials. Of course, in each specific case, the calculation should be carried out taking into account the dimensions of the temporary structure. In order for you to have an idea of the amount of materials, we will give a calculation for a structure with dimensions of 300x200x40 cm. So, you need 6 meters edged board with a section of 20x4 cm for the assembly of a working floor, as well as 36 m of timber with a section of 150x100 mm for the manufacture of support posts. Then we can count total cost makeshift forests, based on the price of one cubic meter of timber.

A video on how to build scaffolding with your own hands will help you better understand the assembly process.

In the photo do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood

Do-it-yourself scaffolding from pipes

To perform this type of auxiliary structures with your own hands, it is necessary to use steel pipes with a diameter of 4-6 cm with a large wall thickness. Clamp fasteners can be used to connect tubular elements into one structure. Detailed drawings for do-it-yourself scaffolding from pipes can be found on the Internet.

Usually home-made temporary steel structures are obtained with a height of no more than 6-8 m, since there are difficulties with the purchase and delivery of a long pipe to the installation site. Insignificant height is, perhaps, the main disadvantage that do-it-yourself metal scaffolding has. If you need to work at height, then it is much easier to buy or rent ready-made factory scaffolding.

Do-it-yourself drawings for scaffolding

Do-it-yourself scaffolding is justified only when building a small country house, cottages or cottages. For professional developers and large construction companies, it is most advisable to purchase ready-made sets of auxiliary equipment that will be durable, reliable and safe, and most importantly, can be reused.

Also, do-it-yourself metal scaffolding can be welded, and not fastened with clamps. However, in this case, you lose. Firstly, the structure cannot be dismantled for storage or for transportation to a new location. Secondly, the resulting rigid scaffolding structure cannot be adjusted to the features of the object under construction: it is impossible to change the height of the flooring, change the pitch of the racks.

But if you are going to make frame scaffolding with your own hands, then welding may be needed to make frame structural elements. Also on the net you can find drawings explaining how to make do-it-yourself pin scaffolding.

What to choose?

To understand what is better, do-it-yourself scaffolding or ready-made traditional temporary structures, you need to know the features of the facility under construction and the purpose of the scaffolding. If you need to build a large structure, a large team of workers will work, and significant loads on the flooring are expected, then it is much better and safer to use a factory set of auxiliary structures. Moreover, scaffolding for rent also allows you to save money, as well as do-it-yourself structures.

Do-it-yourself scaffolding from pallets

Do-it-yourself scaffolding: advantages

Saving. A set of ready-made scaffolding costs at least 150 rubles. per square meter equipment. Homemade scaffolding is much cheaper, especially if you have the materials to make it.
If you need temporary structures for one-time use when building your own home, then DIY scaffolding for summer cottages will be the best option.
Do-it-yourself stronger scaffolding can be made from profile pipe. However, this is only justified if you have the materials. It is not profitable to buy a pipe on purpose and make scaffolding out of it, especially since you can always rent such equipment.
Another opportunity to save money can be the purchase of ready-made homemade scaffolding. For example, there are reviews that do-it-yourself Armenian scaffolding are distinguished by an affordable price and excellent quality.

Disadvantages of homemade scaffolding:

From the proposed photos, you can understand how to make scaffolding with your own hands. But let's list all the disadvantages of such auxiliary facilities:

Factory scaffolding is assembled and dismantled in a couple of hours. It can take a whole day to assemble makeshift scaffolding.
Difficulties in the construction of scaffolding with their own hands do not speak in their favor. In traditional steel structures, all nodes are calculated and thought out to the smallest detail. In addition, attached detailed instructions assemblies.
The weight of homemade wooden scaffolding is much greater than that of steel prefabricated structures.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands (video):

Or the production of such construction works as painting the facade or filing cornices, scaffolding is widely used.

Currently, it is possible to rent inventory scaffolding or scaffolding, and return it after the work is completed. But this is justified only in the production of work that takes a short period of time. If the construction is carried out exclusively on their own and for a long enough time, then the rent will be very expensive. Therefore, most of the future property owners prefer to make scaffolding with their own hands.

Most often, private traders use the following types of forests:

Scaffolding based on trestles - suitable for such “quick” work as painting the facade of a not too high house, installing cornice roof overhangs. If desired, they can also be used to fill the formwork with concrete and brickwork walls.
Scaffolding envelopes are used mainly in the construction of houses.
Attached wooden frame scaffolding - good for both construction and home renovation.

Scaffolding on goats

Traguses are often used not only in construction, but also in external and interior decoration at home. Their advantages are:

cheapness;
ease of manufacture;
light weight;
mobility.

Such scaffolding consists of two trestles, knocked together from boards, and a flooring, which can be either just a set of individual boards cut to length, or a solid knocked down board shield. Using a shield allows you not to worry that the boards will “disperse” under your feet.

For the manufacture of goats you need:

edged board with a thickness of 30 - 50 mm;
nails or screws;
for screeding parts together, you can use steel corners 50 * 50 mm (if any);
drill or screwdriver;
a hammer;
roulette.

Beforehand, it is desirable to throw a simple sketch with dimensions in order to properly cut and prepare the parts for assembly. The central bar of the tragus can be either just a thick board or a structure of three boards like a channel, to which the legs are sewn at an angle.

Greater rigidity, the legs can be pulled together with crossbars, and jibs can be nailed from the ends. The length of the deck depends on how large the work area needs to be. But do not make the flooring too long, otherwise you will have to put another tragus in the center.

Envelope scaffolding

This is a design that is attached directly to the wall.

The main structural part of such scaffolding is triangular support platforms made of boards 50 mm thick. They are l-shaped brackets, sheathed on the sides with a board (25 * 100 mm). The size of one shelf of such an arm usually does not exceed 400 mm. This is due to the fact that the shelf is a support for the working platform. A smaller size can lead to a lack of space on the scaffolding, and a larger one can cause the structure to detach from the wall and, as a result, injure people working on the scaffolding.
The brackets are attached to the wall at a height where the installation of the working floor is planned. They are usually fixed with nails, pressing the vertical arm of the bracket against the wall.
Additionally, the brackets are supported by long boards-supports with a section of 100 * 50 mm, installed at an angle and rested on the ground. For better adhesion to the ground, the lower ends of the props are pointed.

Wood for the manufacture of envelopes must be of high quality, this provides the structure with sufficient reliability.

wooden scaffolding

Most often, in the low-rise sector, wooden scaffolding is used, consisting of a system of supports and flooring. They serve both to lift workers to the required height, and to place them on them. building materials and tool.
Forests can be of considerable height and be multi-tiered. There are some General requirements, which apply to all scaffolding and scaffolding:

They must be reliable. The margin of their strength should allow them to easily withstand the weight of materials and workers placed on them.
The design should be economical, but not at the expense of reliability.
The design of scaffolding should be simple and convenient not only for operation, but also for assembly and disassembly.
It is desirable that the material of scaffolding and scaffolding can be reused after construction is completed.

The simplest scaffold design consists of the following elements:

Support legs - vertical supports, which can be made of high-quality edged boards (100 * 50 mm) or timber (100 * 100 mm). It is important that the boards and beams are intact, without rot, cracks and insect damage. If necessary, the racks can be spliced along the length. The elements are joined end-to-end and fixed with side plates.
crossbars - it is they who, taking the load from the working floor, transfer it to the racks. The same requirements apply to the material of the cross members as for the uprights. They must be one single element. If splicing is necessary, then it is carried out with an additional support.
Braces - connect the racks diagonally. They can be made from slats or even slabs.
Flooring - ladders laid on the crossbars. They are the main work surface.

Edged or unedged boards can be used. From above, the flooring can be sewn up with sheet material. To prevent materials and tools from falling from the flooring, a board board is sewn along its outer part. To give the structure greater stability, it can be supported by slopes, which are made from boards 25–30 mm thick.

Scaffolding Rules

To build scaffolding, you will need the following tool:

saw;
level;
a hammer.

When erecting wooden scaffolding, the following rules must be observed:

Before installing scaffolding, it is necessary to level and tamp the base. , then to support the racks it is necessary to make wooden platforms.
The step of the racks can be 1 - 2 m.
Each structural node must have at least three attachment points.
As fasteners, it is better to use large self-tapping screws. If nails are used for this, then they must be bent on the reverse side.
Handrails must be installed on the inside of the racks - this will prevent workers from falling from the scaffolding.
For the convenience of work, the width of the flooring between the racks should be from 50 to 100 cm.

Work procedure

Scaffolding is assembled in the following sequence:

First, with the help of diagonal ties, the racks are fastened together. For reliability, you can use not only nails and screws, but also corners.
Then, at the required height, the elements of the crossbars are attached.
Horizontal decking boards are fixed on them.
Railings are sewn on.
If necessary, to give the structure additional stability, slopes are installed.
To climb the scaffolding, it is also necessary to secure it to the side of the scaffolding, although ladders can also be used.

For greater reliability, using additional wooden elements, scaffolding can be connected to the wall of the house.

If in own forces and you are afraid that it may be difficult to collect homemade scaffolding, you can choose the option of renting collapsible scaffolding.

Scaffolding is one of the most popular structures, without which almost no construction can do. If you are building a house, cottage or country cottage then do not rush to give money for ready product. In our material, we will share the best instructions on how to make a design yourself.

1. What are scaffolding: a brief educational program

In the very general sense scaffolding is a frame device created from constituent parts and sections, the parameters of which are standardized to world standards. They are designed to protect the activities of workers who are working on the construction or restoration of multi-storey buildings.

1.1. Types of scaffolding

Scaffolding is made from metal and wood. And now let's see what modifications there are, depending on the type of connection of the components included in them:

Wedge. They are indispensable when using massive materials and knots. So, you can be sure that they will not let you down even with the most ambitious front of work. Another significant plus is the speed of dismantling.

Pin. Especially loved by foremen for the speed of assembly / disassembly of the product. Based on the name, it is the pin that is the connection node.

Frame. They are relevant for finishing manipulations with plaster and paint. They differ from the rest in a special frame, which is rigidly fixed with diagonal and horizontal racks with nodal fasteners. The cost will not hit the wallet.

Clamp. By themselves, they are quite complex in execution: they are applicable at objects of increased importance. Produced according to the individual parameters of the room. Literally all the nuances are taken into account here.

Let's take a closer look at the installation methods for each type of scaffolding.

1.2. Device

Products have details such as:

jumpers for flooring;
spacers;
enclosing element;
stops;
plank flooring;
racks;
ladder (ladder).

2. Do-it-yourself rules for mounting wooden and metal scaffolding

The first step begins with a well-designed drawing. Listen to the advice of professional builders: the width of the flooring should not exceed one meter; product height - six meters; the gap between the racks is in the range from two to two and a half meters. The standard level for the location of jumpers for the initial flooring is about half a meter from the ground.

For the next one, mounting on a hill from 180 to 200 cm. And finally, for the third one, it is installed at a height of 360-400 cm.

2.1. Wooden scaffolding: how to make it yourself

Do-it-yourself scaffolding from boards involves the following materials:

boards 4-5 cm thick (for flooring and lintels);
boards (width - from 10 cm, thickness - 5 cm) or timber with a special section (10 * 10 cm). They will be needed for processing persistent braces and racks;
edged board "30" is useful in the formation of railings, screeds and spacers;
screws and nails. The former are relevant when disassembling and assembling high scaffolding, and the latter are at a break and for compact products.

Step #1 Four racks are cut along the height of the scaffolding. On a site cleared of debris and foreign objects, they are laid out parallel to each other.

Step no 2. Then we securely fix with horizontal jumpers those of the racks on which you plan to place the flooring.

Step no 3. As a result, we have two "ladder" frames. Next, we mount in a vertical position relative to each other. We strengthen the screeds (horizontal and diagonal).

Step no 4. We prepare a strong flooring from the bars. Then we securely mount it on horizontal jumpers.

Step no 5. The turn comes with direct manipulations with forests. They are connected on two side cuts-stops.

Step No 6. And only after that the railing and stairs are nailed. Ready!

2.2. Profile pipe products: detailed instructions

By its principle, this type of scaffolding is assembled in a similar way. However, consider some nuances. They consist in the use of adapters, with the help of which an increase in the levels of the product is achieved.

However, let's figure out what you need to buy to create one section:

Bolts with nuts and washers (in the amount of ten pieces). They are very easy to fasten the diagonal ties and then fix to the racks of the scaffold base.
Profile pipe. They need to take about eight segments. Material parameters: 25×25 mm or 35×35 mm. Provide an additional copy for the installation of railings. It will need one piece (up to two meters).
For thrust bearings, buy four plates. Their material: metal. Thickness: two to three millimeters. Other parameters: 10×10 cm.
For racks and jumpers, take eight segments: equally 1 and 1.5 meters, respectively.
Diagonal ties must be formed from four segments ( optimal length- about two meters round pipe. It is best if its value of its parameter does not exceed two centimeters.

Now let's get to work

The first thing they start with assembling scaffolding with their own hands from a profile pipe is: connecting the structure rack to OSB sheet, which is the assembly shield. Clamps are ideal for this manipulation.
Next, we securely attach the jumpers (horizontal) to the racks, and only then we fix the adapters (from parts of the pipes) to the upper ends of the racks (the optimal indent is five centimeters). We use a welding machine.
After that, the finished device (a tandem of jumpers with racks) is first detached from the assembly shield for the following manipulation: after changing the orientation (rotation by 90 degrees), it is returned to the structure: clamps are also useful for connecting to the shield.
Let's not forget about this right moment during installation, as the correct processing thin-walled pipes(for diagonal stretch marks). For our purposes, we beat off their ends and middle with a hammer. Using a drill, we get spans for bolts.
Very carefully (in the center) we screw the bolts into a pair of diagonal ties. Pre-measure the areas where the rack fixation points will be located.
We join the racks with couplers with nuts and bolts.
Now let's deal with the railings and racks separately. We make a few holes on them with a drill.
Thrust bearings (plates) are fastened with pieces of pipes. To do this, we use a welding machine.
At the final stage, the structure is installed in a strictly vertical position. But it is necessary to provide for thrust bearings. They are attached to the lower ends of the pipes.
We make a high-quality and solid flooring from an ordinary edged board, which is placed above the side lintels. Experts recommend using lumber called "magpie" for these purposes.

Pay attention to the secrets that everyone who decides to assemble scaffolding on their own should know about:

If you are faced with the task of increasing the scaffolding in length, then you need to obey this logic: we make holes in the existing sections (in the upper and lower parts). The bolts that will be located there will be the connecting link with the subsequent racks.
When you attach the ties, then follow the alternation: on the scaffolding, they are mounted on different sidewalls.
Not always, but overhaul or large-scale construction, you may find it necessary to add sections of the third tier (4.5 m). And then you can not do without a profile pipe of persistent cutting, which serves for the stability of scaffolding. Your action: create holes in the racks.
Metal corners (3 * 3 cm) will prevent the flooring from shifting. They are mounted on the area of contact contact with the jumpers.

3. Universal dismantling scheme

This procedure has its own characteristics: the technology involves the dismantling of the structure from top to bottom in a sequence, reverse installation. However, do not forget that before the main manipulations it is necessary:

inspect the scaffolding for the absence of any foreign objects: garbage, inventory, etc.;
fence the site to avoid unforeseen situations;
all exits to the balcony and window openings are tightly closed;
make sure that the tools are in working order;
a safety belt is required when the structure has not been used for a long time and there is a possibility that defects or traces of rust may form.

All types of product are dismantled tier by tier, section by section. Pay special attention to wall mounts, which are disassembled according to a similar principle: remove the fastening hooks that are located above the manipulated tier. Masters advise when dismounting almost all scaffolding (except for the collar variety), the components of the tier should be removed and put on the ground.

So let's get started.

First, take into account the strict sequence: fences - posts and fastening devices above the flooring of each tier - diagonal ties within the boundaries of this tier.
Secondly, we move on to the flooring shield. It is not completely removed: one of the fragments will be useful for laying the tier under the one under consideration.
Thirdly, staircases remove the railing, then the racks. And further - boards of platforms and stairs. And finally, the turn of the tier frame comes: the crossbars (transverse and longitudinal) are removed.
The wall mounts are disassembled. And the holes from them are rubbed with a special compound.

Throughout the process, you can not do without ropes and blocks - reliable lifting devices. The elements received after dismantling must be inspected and packed in order to store or transport scaffolding.

4. Video: making scaffolding yourself

Having mastered the technology of mounting scaffolding, it's time to put into practice the knowledge gained. And if you seriously think about where, then the Stroyka ru portal will come to the rescue here too. In our catalog you can always find and order quality products from reliable suppliers.

Photo and video: www.google.ru.

From this article you will learn how to properly assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands - a step-by-step instruction has been prepared for you.

The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and designs in general. You will also learn about accessories for working at heights.

Scaffolding - a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders, which serves to lift and work at height. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since working at a height of more than 1.5 m is traumatic.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements apply to scaffolding:

Reliability. The system of elements must withstand the weight of workers and material in motion with a margin.
Manufacturability. It implies the convenience of assembly / disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or an entry-level specialist.
Thrift. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
Utility. For inventory scaffolding - the ability to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wood - the ability to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Inventory scaffolding is a professional and expensive product. Buy them for home use unprofitable, only rent is possible with a large amount of work (for example, with the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction, it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the building structure.

Standard wood scaffolding

The design of these scaffolds came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming a frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have been improved. They deserve special attention.

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Vertical supports from edged boards good quality. They perceive the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Rack Requirements:

Edged board of the 1st grade of any breed.
Board thickness - not less than 30 mm, width - not less than 100 mm.
Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board must not be broken, cracked, rotten, crooked, of variable section, with excessive wane or holes.
The board must not be infested with insects.

Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splicing of the racks. Elements should be butt-jointed, not "overlap" and clamped on both sides.

Crossbars. They take the load from the flooring and transfer it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to the requirements for racks. One additional requirement: the use of spliced cross members without additional support is unacceptable.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross bars. It can be made of edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - board guides, sheet material on top. Continuous flooring and run-up is allowed.

Braces. Diagonal ties connecting racks different rows. It is allowed to use rails, slabs. It is advisable to install braces of maximum length in order to tie the largest number racks.

Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to avoid deflection from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set general rules, observing which you can collect a reliable and safe design. These rules are derived from the requirements of safety and the experience of high-altitude masters:

The foundation must be solid. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, make wooden platforms to support the racks.
The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
For each node - at least 3 attachment points. With multi-point fastening - a step of 50–70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
Use powerful self-tapping screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the back side.
Always install railings on the inside of the rack.
Use a frontal board (fence at the flooring).
Racks at the interface must be trimmed.
The spacing of the posts is from 1 to 2 m, the minimum thickness of the flooring is 25 mm.

Scaffold assembly

For creating wooden structure scaffolding will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal step (1.5 m) and get the number of racks.
We collect the "envelope" - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them in this place with a cross bar.

Attention! The angle between the upright and the cross member must be 90°. Skews can deform the frame under load.

We sew the frame with a diagonal.
We prepare the required number of "envelopes".
Install two "envelopes" vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a diagonal at the maximum height so that they stand without support.
Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the floorboard so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
Place the deck board on the cross members and fix it. Reinforce bracing.
Fix the flooring on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
Install the rest of the "envelopes" and flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or flooring sheets must fall on the crossbar!

Install handrail and front board.
If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
If the height is more than 2 tiers and you need to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, you need to tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then connect the edge of this board with the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

The analysis of scaffolding is carried out in the reverse order - the dismantling of the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Devices for wooden scaffolding

Steel cross member - bracket

This element greatly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross section of the board.

triangular bracket

Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows the scaffold to be attached directly to the wall. For a flooring device based on it, several boards for a ladder are enough. But at the same time, for rearrangement, you have to dismantle it. Mounting something from the bottom up is not possible. Most dangerous view high-rise scaffolds. When working, special skill and caution are required.

Bricklayer Express Scaffolding

They are created from pallets on which bricks were brought. For flooring, as a rule, a rafter board is used. It does not require sawing the material, while they are quite reliable, if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.

Bricklayer scaffolding on video

Whatever type of scaffolding or scaffolding you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time for strengthening can turn into unpleasant, and sometimes serious consequences.

Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru