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How to lay the subfloor correctly. Do-it-yourself rough floor made of wood and concrete. General requirements for subfloors

Draft floors have several types according to their purpose and method of installation. First, you should consider their features and differences, and then talk in detail about the method of construction. As always, with an example, we will consider the most difficult option, if it becomes clear, then it will be much easier to make subfloors simpler.

  1. According to the lags. Most often used as a base for finishing floor coverings with low load-bearing performance: laminate floors, linoleum, parquet board or block parquet. Draft floors in these cases perceive loads and evenly distribute them over the floor area. Sometimes such floors are called the base, this name is used by inexperienced builders, but it has the right to life.
  2. Under the lags. At the bottom of the lag are fixed cranial bars, they serve as the basis for fastening the subfloor, insulation and vapor and waterproofing.
  3. On load-bearing beams. In our opinion, the most good option, but it needs to be thought through at the design stage wooden house. Why do we think so?

    The distance between the floor beams is ≈ 1–1.2 meters, specific values ​​\u200b\u200band thickness values ​​are calculated depending on the load. Then logs are placed on the floor beams with a distance of 40–60 cm. Why do double work, it is much more expedient to install floor beams a little more often, while reducing their size. The same beams will perform the function of the lag. What will be the result? Significant material savings.

    If we calculate the amount of timber for beams and logs in the traditional construction option, then the second option makes it possible to achieve savings of at least 40%. At modern prices for natural high-quality (and for these works only the highest quality sawn timber is used) in the money transfer, the savings amount to significant amounts. Another definite plus is the increase in height interior spaces, with a lag height within ten centimeters, this is a noticeable increase.

Any low-quality materials can be used for the subfloor, unless it serves as the basis for the installation of finishing floor coverings. It can be either pieces of boards, OSB sheets, plywood or chipboard, or unedged boards. The thickness of the materials does not matter; boards or slabs with a thickness of one to three centimeters can be used on the same floor. It will be laid on thermal insulation materials, for them, slight differences in the height of the base are not critical. Of course, unedged boards should definitely be sanded, wood pests breed under the bark.

The second important point for all subfloors is protection against negative impact moisture. Currently, there are quite effective antiseptics in the implementation, with which you need to soak the boards at least twice.

Important. Before impregnation, lumber must be dried. The lower the relative humidity, the more they will absorb antiseptics, the more reliable the protection.

No antiseptic - not a problem. Just oil the boards, the effect will be exactly the same. Handle the ends of the boards for the subfloor with particular care. An inattentive attitude to the ends is one of the main mistakes of inexperienced builders. They first lay the cut boards on the supporting elements, and then they process two surfaces with a brush, they forget about the ends. The ends of the wood absorb the most a large number of moisture, in this place all capillaries of wood are open.

And the last. Keep in mind that no antiseptics will help if the underground of a wooden house does not have an effective natural ventilation. The draft floor will sooner or later lose its original properties. You will have to change not only it, but also the entire floor covering.

If you are afraid of penetration through the vents of rodents, put metal bars on them. If it seems to you that in winter the floor in the rooms on the first floor is very cold due to the air (and this can be), then on cold period time to close them. But be sure to open all the vents with warming. Ventilation, by the way, is a prerequisite for the durability of the lower rims of the log house.

Practical advice. Using smoke or a lighter, check the effectiveness of the products. Bring an open fire to the holes and observe how and with what force the flame reacts to air currents. Weak air movement - take immediate action to improve ventilation efficiency.

How to make a draft floor in a wooden house

Let's consider one of the most difficult options - the device of draft floors along logs without floor beams. This gender is often found in small rooms a private house or in cases of features of the construction technology of a log house, when floor beams were not used.

Important. Be sure to impregnate all lumber twice with an antiseptic, before that dry them well.

Step 1. Markup. Make a zero mark along the perimeter of the room using a water or laser level. This will be the level of the finished floor. From this mark, you need to minus the thickness of the finish coating and the lag. Make a second mark, at this level there should be supports under the logs. They can be made from concrete, blocks or bricks. There must be concrete in the ground, only the above-ground part is allowed to be laid out with bricks.

Step 2 Make supports in any way, the distance between them should take into account the linear parameters of the log and the total load on the floor.

Step 3. Put all the logs under the rope, do not forget to isolate them with two layers of roofing material.

Practical advice. If possible, then at the bottom of the lag along the entire length, nail long boards, in width they should exceed the width of the lag by 6-8 cm. A subfloor will be laid on these ledges. It is much faster and easier to do this than later in an uncomfortable position and cramped conditions to fix cranial bars on both sides of the lag. Of course, the thickness of the boards should be taken into account when marking the position of the support posts.

Step 4. Fasten the legs. To do this, you can use metal corners and fix them to the walls of the log house.

Do not forget to make a gap of about 1-2 cm between the walls and the ends of the lag, take metal corners with oblong slots to ensure free longitudinal sliding. Tighten the screws in such a way that the logs can move in the slots. For reliability, it is recommended to attach the logs with dowels through at least one column, the side of the corner fixed to the log must also be movable.

Step 5 Prepare material for the subfloor.

We have already mentioned that in our case all trimmings are suitable, you can partly lay with plywood or OSB, and partly with pieces of boards or unedged materials. It is desirable that the sheets of plywood and OSB are moisture resistant, if there are none, then soak them with drying oil or an antiseptic.

Step 6. Check the distance between the lags. If it is the same, then you can cut off all the blanks according to the standard length.

Practical advice. Much faster to work with a template. Cut one board to size, it should fit between the joists with a gap. With this template, walk along the entire length of the lag. The dimensions are correct - use this segment as a template when cutting the rest of the blanks. Remember that measurements should only be taken from the template, and not from cut fresh boards. If each time you use a new segment, then errors accumulate, and they will certainly be, and the last boards may differ significantly from the required dimensions.

Step 7 Lay the boards on the prepared shelves. We have already mentioned that it can be either wide boards nailed at the bottom of the lag, or cranial bars installed later on both sides. Do not try to make the subfloor solid, small gaps do not affect anything. In order to save materials, it is recommended to specifically leave a distance of 5–8 centimeters between individual boards. But this can only be done in cases where pressed mineral wool or foam boards are used as heaters.

Step 8. Steam and waterproofing. If you have extra money and time, then you can install hydro and vapor barrier in any case.

If you do not want to act thoughtlessly, then figure out why such protection is needed. Mineral wool has excellent heat saving performance, does not rot, does not contribute to the reproduction of microorganisms, including fungi. This is great, but it has two very significant drawbacks. The first is that with an increase in relative humidity, the thermal conductivity increases sharply. Water conducts heat well, there is no need to talk about any heat-shielding functions. Second, it takes a very long time to dry. This means that all adjacent wooden elements will constantly be in conditions of high humidity. What is the result of such conditions need not be explained.

If you make insulation on the ground floor with mineral wool, then vapor barrier is required. It will not allow the penetration of moisture from the ground into the thermal insulation. If foam-based materials are used as thermal insulation, then such vapor barrier is unnecessary, these materials do not absorb water.

Now about waterproofing. In any case, the draft floor from below does not need to be laid with such materials; there are no “gushing” sources in the underground. But after thermal insulation has been laid on the subfloor, it is imperative to protect it from moisture penetration from the side of the finishing floor. This applies to all types of materials mineral wool and foam. Waterproofing protects not only them from water, but also subfloor boards and logs.

Insulating layer over mineral wool

Draft floor for "soft" floor coverings

With its help, not only the loads are evenly distributed over the surface, but also the logs or concrete bases are leveled. Such floors are used for laminate, piece parquet and parquet board or linoleum. The materials used are plywood, OSB or fiberboard, all materials must be waterproof.

The screed must be even, the difference in height cannot exceed ± 2 mm.

There are two ways to lay the subfloor on the screed: on the slats or directly on the base. The first method is used in cases where the base has significant irregularities, it is required to lay under the floor network engineering or make additional insulation.

Leveling concrete with slats is much easier and faster than re-screeding with cement-sand mortars. Waterproofing is necessarily placed between the slats and the screed, the slats are leveled in height with various linings, fixed with dowels. The slabs of the subfloor are nailed with nails, the dimensions of the slabs must be adjusted to the distance between the slats. The side faces should be located in the middle of the rail, two plates are fixed on it at the same time. Make sure that four corners do not meet in one place, this position of the sheets can cause swelling of the finish flooring.

The second option for laying the subfloor along the screed is used on flat ground that do not require additional insulation. To achieve an ideal surface, the use of building glue is allowed. It is smeared with a comb under the slabs and eliminates even the slightest irregularities, the subfloor becomes a single monolith with a screed. Further, the floor device algorithm depends on the materials used.

The heads of the hardware must be completely recessed; for this, special or home-made finishers are used. If it is planned to lay linoleum on the subfloor, then it is recommended to grind the entire surface with an electric machine.

Plywood floor putty

Remember to always leave a gap of 1-2 centimeters between the subfloor and the wall. To prevent bridges from appearing in these places, place pieces of any heat insulators in them.

Video - Subfloor construction

Even without reading the instructions for laying a particular coating, you can immediately say that the base on which it will be laid must have such qualities as evenness, strength, dryness and cleanliness. But only how to get this, if the surface before your eyes is clearly far from ideal? It is somewhat difficult to answer the question unambiguously, since different coatings subfloor can meet different requirements.

Floors are a kind of construction, which consists of two types of bases - "finishing" and "rough" and lies on the carrier. For example, between floors, this function is performed by the overlap, more precisely, its load-bearing elements. Depending on what material is used for the finishing floor, it can be plank, parquet, tile, concrete, etc. As for the rough one, which lies under the finishing one, this is a multi-layered “pie”, the structure of which determines:

  • base design;
  • finishing type;
  • General requirements.

The device of subfloors in any case, despite the differences, combines the same components:

  • underlying - having perceived the load from the coating, evenly distributes it over the base and transfers it to the walls; in this capacity, a floor slab and soil that has undergone the appropriate training can act;
  • leveling - sufficiently dense serves to level the surface of the previous layer; at the same stage, the planned slope of the surface is performed, using a screed for this or resorting to other methods;
  • intermediate - interlayer - a ligament between the coating and the underlying layers of the floor;
  • insulating - provide noise, heat and moisture insulation, where exactly they will be located depends on the functional load of the structure and the method of the device.

The draft is laid from a low-quality board, that is, a slab, a junk board, a picket fence - all that it is possible to lay heat, steam and waterproofing materials on. The point here is sensitivity to humidity and temperature fluctuations, therefore, in order to minimize the deformation of the subsequent finishing one, materials capable of deformation are chosen for the draft. Depending on where it is being built, perform:

  • along the beams
  • by lags,
  • on the ground.

The first ones are arranged over non-insulated undergrounds, and the finishing floors of the first floors should be 80–100 cm above the ground. In this case, the vapor barrier layer is laid between the flooring and the plank floor.

Lag installation

You can also do it yourself. For alignment with this method, a special frame made of wooden bars is used - a log. Similar structures are laid in buildings where the height of the underground is not more than 25 cm. They are supported by antiseptic wooden pads of the following sizes: length - 20-25 cm, width - 10 mm, thickness - from 25 mm. When laying on logs, you must follow the following recommendations:


Many people are concerned about the question, is it possible to lay logs without significant damage to quality at a lower cost? Yes, it is possible - the output is in a sparse laying of the lag. In addition, with a low landing, the floor may not be insulated. One of important points in this technology is the choice of flooring. It should be a thin raw board, which is then laid in a diagonal direction. A board thinner than the norm is also suitable for a finishing coating - all the same, the thickness of the base in total will be within the normal range. Moreover, the intersection of the fibers gives the effect of plywood, which eliminates the deflection under the influence of loads.

The device of the subfloor can also be carried out on floor slabs, since the flooring in this case does not require either supports or a log.

On the ground: we provide a basement, insulation

When arranging the floors of the first floors, roughing is often done. Schematically, the generalized design of his “pie” looks like this, starting from the bottom up:

  • well-compacted bedding of river sand - 50–70 mm;
  • or crushed stone - 100–120 mm;
  • rough concrete screed - 50–70 mm;
  • thermal insulation - depending on the region of location;
  • finishing screed - minimum thickness - 50 mm, reinforced with mesh, cell - 10x10 cm.

If the house does not have a basement and no special loads are expected on the ground floor, a rough screed, as such, can be omitted. In these cases, the covered expanded clay is poured with a liquid solution of cement and sand, taken in a ratio of 1: 2, allowed to harden and the subsequent layers continue to be laid, starting with waterproofing.

If it is supposed to lay a warm floor, then it is necessary to provide a gap between the draft and the foundation of 10–20 mm. It is usually filled with foamed polyethylene or polyurethane. This is done in order to prevent cracking of concrete during its thermal expansion.

An important point is also the level of location of the finishing screed.

  • With an uninsulated basement, the screed is placed above the level of the top of the basement. Otherwise, a “bridge” of cold will form in this place and the wall will freeze through.
  • With an insulated basement, there are no restrictions.

Subfloor insulation

With any technology, roughing and finishing should be located at different levels:

  • draft,
  • free space,
  • finishing.

Thermal protection of the floor is provided by filling this void with insulation. Before laying, the subfloor is additionally treated with an antiseptic, even with the help of used motor oils, and a vapor barrier is laid.

It is not recommended to use this option in a residential building due to the stable specific “aroma”.

Mineral wool is considered the best option for insulation, although it can be replaced

  • any other synthetic insulation that is not subject to decay;
  • loose expanded clay or;
  • hard foam.

Ventilation holes should be provided in the corners.

Waterproofing is an important stage of a warm house

Particular attention should be paid to waterproofing in rooms that are characterized by high humidity, for example, bathrooms. The choice of technologies is quite wide. For example, coating waterproofing using special penetrating compounds, or waterproofing with synthetic components such as polyurethane, epoxy and others. Coating polymer-cement waterproofing is considered to be the most effective either with quick-setting elements or with synthetic additives. The latter are especially relevant for houses with unstable foundations.

Many novice builders who have just started building their home are already considering what kind of linoleum or laminate they will lay in the future room.

And soon, before them the question arises - How and on what to lay this linoleum. Of course, we all understand that first you need to make the so-called subfloor - the basis on which, in the future, you can lay any floor covering you like. But, how to make the floor “from scratch” correctly, so that it is reliable, even and, most importantly, warm. You will find the answer in this article.

To make a rough floor with your own hands, you do not need any professional skills or special tools. The main thing you need is good physical strength and a head on your shoulders, as well as some, the most common tool. But more on that later, first you need to decide which construction material will need to be purchased for the construction of a subfloor. The choice of materials for the floor on the construction market is now huge, but we will consider the most common option - no less reliable and at the same time not expensive.

We use the following lumber:

— wooden beam with dimensions of 100 by 150 mm (or 150 by 200 mm) and a length of 6000 mm;
— wooden block with dimensions of 50 by 50 mm (or 60 by 60 mm) and a length of 3000 mm;
- planed boards 50 mm thick and 6000 mm long;
- OSB sheets with dimensions of 1250 by 2500 mm and a minimum thickness of 12 mm.

As a heater, it is desirable to use basalt insulation (in a simple way, glass wool). To protect lumber from mold and decay, you need to purchase a special solution (antiseptic). You may also need cement mortar during the construction of the floor. Now consider all the lumber used separately, as well as what role they play in draft floor.
Lumber used.

Wooden beams, with dimensions of 100 by 150 mm, are used as load-bearing logs, on which, subsequently, the entire floor in the room will rest.

Bars with dimensions of 50 by 50 mm are designed to accommodate insulation in the floor.

The cost of timber, on average, is about 6,500 rubles per cubic meter. To calculate the total cubic capacity of all bars, you will need to calculate the volume of one bar and multiply by the required number of bars. The volume of any bar is considered as the volume of a parallelepiped.

Choosing the right board
The board plays an important role, therefore it is better to use planed larch as the base of the subfloor. The cost of one cube of such a board is about the same as that of the bars. Cubature is considered similar.

All lumber listed must be made primarily from conifers trees, such as larch, it is less afraid of moisture and dampness, which means it will last longer. By the way, the whole of St. Petersburg, which is already over 300 years old, was built from it!

When buying beams and boards, you will need to take into account that the drier the lumber, the better and more expensive it is. After all, the dried boards will no longer warp and will not go (by helicopter), for example, during the heating of the house. Therefore, lumber is selected based on the following criteria:
- the lower the humidity level, the better, you can take it straight from the dryer;
- timber or board should be smooth, surfaces without significant defects, cracks and delaminations.
Sheets (plates) OSB

These so-called OSB boards complete the construction of the subfloor. In the future, OSB panels will serve as the final basis for floor covering. Translated into Russian, OSB is translated as OSB - oriented strand board. The material itself is a board pressed from sawdust.

Behind recent years 5-th, OSB plates have become increasingly used in the decoration of walls, floors and are considered a fairly good basis for almost all types of finishing materials.

The main advantages of OSB boards:
- high moisture resistance;
– high mechanical strength;
- the material is easy to install.

One sheet of OSB with dimensions of 1250 by 2500 mm and a thickness of 12 mm will cost you about 700 rubles. Many Russian manufacturers sell OSB boards for less than 500 rubles a piece. You should not lean towards a cheaper option, it is cheap OSB panels that have received bad reviews due to their low level of environmental friendliness.
We figured out the materials, now we will find out what tool you will need to install the subfloor. Prepare or buy the following tool with which you can simplify your work as much as possible:

- a hammer;
- electric jigsaw;
- hacksaw or electric saw;
- roulette;
- level 1.5 meters long;
- stationery knife;
- nails 50-100 mm long.

Stages of subfloor construction

Let's first figure out how to properly position the lags. Before we figure out the correct location of the lag, let's go back a little to the past. It is advisable to take care of the floor arrangement even before the construction of the main walls of the house, that is, immediately after preparing the foundation. After all, then it will be impossible to fix something in the location of the lag.

First, all the bars (for the first floor) are treated with a special solution (antiseptic) against mold and decay. The fact is that the logs are located near the ground, under the house and will always be exposed to a humid environment.

After laying the beams, check that they do not touch the ground (the distance from the bottom of the beam to the ground must be at least 20 cm). That is why all the space inside the foundation is always cleared in advance.

So, we place the bars perpendicular to the direction of the longest side of the future room with a step of 80-100 cm. The more often you keep the step, the less the floor will wobble and play, but this will require more building materials, respectively, and costs.
We have all the bars with a “rib” to increase the rigidity of the floor and make it as high as possible from the ground level. Agree a room on the first floor with too low windows - not the best way. We have all the logs, strictly in a horizontal position, checking their level from the edges, in the middle and between adjacent bars. If necessary, the edge of the beam can be raised with cement mortar.

The bars should rest with their edges on almost the entire width of the foundation, and their ends should be smeared with cement mortar or closed from the street. It is not necessary to specially attach the logs to the foundation - we just lay them, but so that they stably adhere to the surface of the foundation and do not stagger.

All boards, even before the walls are erected, it is advisable to lay them out on logs and cover them with the same anti-mold solution. You can also adjust them to size and cut a little too long boards, so that later, indoors, it would be more convenient to work with them.

Finally, we make the base of the floor after the erection of the walls. We measure all the boards so that there is a gap of 3-5 mm from the end between the wall and the board. This gap is needed so that the board does not rest against the walls during the shrinkage of the house. We lay the boards perpendicular to the direction of the lag.

We nail each board with nails “weaving”, through one or two logs. You should not hammer three nails into each beam - this will not win you anything. Boards, just do not press hard against each other. The first board lies with an indent of 3-5 mm from the wall, the last one is adjusted in size. You may need to adjust the last board and cut it lengthwise.


For floor insulation we use bars and basalt insulation. To insulate the floor, it is necessary to build a kind of frame in the form of a lattice of bars 50 by 50 mm. In the cells of this frame you will lay a heater with a thickness of 50-60 mm. The insulation in our case comes with plates, but if you don’t like it so much, you can insulate it with soft wool, just keep in mind that for the same soundproofing effect as from plates, you will need twice as much soft wool. For example, if you open a wooden floor in a Soviet apartment, you will see a similar grating, and in rare cases, even with a heater.

The bars must be distributed in increments equal to: width OSB boards divided by two, that is, approximately 620-630 mm. Bars are also laid across, here you determine the step at your discretion.

Try to put all the bars in a horizontal level. This can be achieved with small wooden wedges. Wedges are not difficult to make yourself.
Important! We nail the bars to the boards with nails, as in the previous case.
We lay the insulation in small rectangles, cutting out the desired size with a clerical knife.
Important! When working with insulation, be sure to wear goggles and a mask.

A small digression.
There is another pretty good way to insulate the floor. Although it is used mainly for warming the floor of the second floor, it is also suitable for the first floor. Here, the insulation is placed in the space between the lags. In order for the insulation to hold, boards 80-100 cm long are nailed to the lags from below, you see, it’s not very convenient. Moreover, the boards should be tried to be nailed tightly to each other so that the insulation does not crumble over time and does not fall to the ground inside the foundation. However, in this case, you can lay the insulation in a thicker layer, and the floor will be better insulated as a result. With this method of insulation, the device of bars 50 by 50 mm will not be mandatory.

A high-quality and beautiful floor is the basis of comfort in the house. The floor is an interior decoration, but not only. During operation, it withstands the weight of people and furniture in the house, helps to save heat. For it to be so, he needs a solid foundation.

In the case of a house made of wood, this base will be the subfloor wooden lags. It is easy to make with your own hands, it is strong and durable.

The purpose of the subfloor

AT general sense subfloor - flooring over the ceiling or beams at the base of the building, which is laid under the floor covering. For its manufacture, it is used various materials, most commonly wood. It can be OSB-board, plywood or cutting boards. In the case of non-residential buildings, lumber can be used without pre-treatment of the ends, as well as used.

The draft floor helps to solve three main tasks:

  • Additional thermal insulation.

One of the most popular subfloor designs is the joist design. It is easy to place a roll of insulating material in the space between the beams, which will significantly reduce heat loss.

  • Leveling the base for flooring.

It is difficult to create a beautiful floor on an uneven surface. This is solved with the help of plates on wood based or plywood.

  • Increase the bearing capacity of the floor.

A high-quality and reliable base will allow you to use any floor coverings without regard to their strength.

There are several subfloor options. The main difference between them is the material. Gender can be a time-tested concrete screed. It is a good choice for a room with high humidity. concrete base suitable for a bathroom in the house, shower or bath.

If you need to prepare a flat base for linoleum, laminate or other material that is not very durable, it is enough to make a simple subfloor from plywood or OSB boards. It cannot boast of good thermal protection, therefore it is more suitable for non-residential premises.

Advice. The best choice for the residential part of the house is a draft floor on wooden beams. This is a great option that is equally suitable for any room in wooden house and not only.

Design features

At the heart of the floor on wooden logs are beams (). These are bars made of wood or polymeric materials, laid parallel to each other, which serve as a support for sheet material. This is one of the most common options for creating a subfloor.

It is distinguished by:

  • sufficient ease of installation;
  • low cost of the material;
  • a significant increase in the strength of the floor;
  • uniform load distribution;
  • ease of installation of thermal insulation and noise protection.

It should be noted the versatility of this type of subfloor. Logs can be laid on the ground, wooden or concrete surfaces, of course, in all cases it is important to ensure maximum protection wood from moisture. The result of a properly performed work will be a dry ventilated underground, which will positively affect the characteristics of the floor and the structure as a whole.

Material selection

The reliability and durability of the floor directly depend on the quality of the material used. First of all, this applies to beams. For their manufacture, you will need a bar with a section of 50 x 50 mm or a board with a thickness of at least 50 mm, a width of 150 mm. The exact parameters are selected individually for each specific project.

An important detail of the floor on the logs are cranial bars - slats of small section (approximately 20 x 30 mm), which are attached to the beam along its length and serve to lay the material that supports thermal insulation. As such, OSB boards or plywood are most often used.

Timber and boards for draft floors must have sufficient strength and be resistant to decay. Structures are made of coniferous wood. Beams can be from any available wood, the most common option is pine.

In addition to timber, you will need sheet material to create a substrate for flooring, roll waterproofing, an antiseptic for impregnating wood and a heat insulator (mineral wool).

Floor on joists

Any home craftsman can make a reliable and durable black floor in a wooden house with his own hands. This is not a very difficult task, but in order to achieve the desired result, you will have to work hard. The work itself can be divided into two major stages. The first is the preparation and fastening of the lag, the second is the cutting and laying of sheet material.

Fastening

The first thing to do before starting work is to sketch out a floor plan and calculate the amount of material. It is necessary to calculate the number of beams and multiply by the length. It is important to choose the right laying step. It is calculated individually and depends on the area of ​​the room, the material to be used in the second stage, its thickness and mechanical strength.

Advice. The device of the subfloor with insulation has its own specifics. When choosing a lag step, it is worth stopping at its standard value, namely 55–58 cm. This is due to the fact that the width of a standard sheet of mineral wool is 60 cm.

Before starting installation, it is necessary to impregnate the beams with an antiseptic. Professionals recommend processing wood in two stages, which will provide maximum protection for wood, and therefore the durability of the structure as a whole. If the ends of the log will lie on the foundation, it is imperative to lay two layers of roofing material or a modern analogue between the wood and concrete.

To fix the beams to the wall, you will need metal holders. Several of their modifications are on sale, pick up the best option for each specific case will not be difficult. Fasteners are easy to install, it guarantees high reliability of the floor and its durability.

When mounting the logs, it is important to ensure that their upper faces lie in the same plane. For control, you can use a long, even rail, to make sure the surface is horizontal, you will need building level. Correcting a slight misalignment is easy; you need to put an adjusting pad under the sagging beam. It should be made of metal or plastic (the wood will soon sag, causing the floors to creak).

Mounting

Using a screwdriver or an electric drill with a nozzle, cranial bars are screwed along the lower edge of the log. Their task is to support plywood or wood board, which will serve as a support for mineral wool. Sheet material is cut, focusing on the step of the beams. Instead of plates, you can use cutting boards.

Advice. When cutting sheets for laying in the space between the lags, one should not strive for perfect accuracy, on the contrary, it is better to cut blanks 1-2 cm narrower. This compensates for the possible curvature of the bars themselves, and it is easy to close the gaps with mounting foam.

The assembled frame is covered with a vapor barrier. Can be bought expensive roll material membrane type or limit yourself to cheap plastic wrap. In any case, the isolation must be reliable. The film is fixed with a construction stapler, the joints are glued with adhesive tape.

Lay the first layer of cotton wool. If a standard step is selected during the installation of the lag, there will be no problems. If necessary, the cotton wool is lightly tamped along the edges so that it fills the entire internal space. Next, lay the second layer. It is important to offset half or a third of the sheet.

The thickness of the insulation is chosen based on local climatic conditions. For the middle lane, 10 cm is enough, for the north of the country - at least 15 cm. Waterproofing is laid on top of the top layer. On the beams, it is additionally fixed with a stapler, the joints must be sealed with adhesive tape.

A rail 20–30 mm thick is stuffed over the log, it will provide good ventilation for the finished floor and protect it from mold. The warm draft floor is almost ready. It remains only to lay the finishing floor boards or sheet material, which will serve as the basis for carpet, linoleum, laminate.

In order for the new floor to fully meet expectations, it is necessary to initially decide on the purpose of the room and the type of flooring, it is on its parameters that the width and thickness of the beams, their step depends. For the most part, a subfloor using OSB or plywood is seen as optimal. The technology of working with the material is not particularly difficult, and the result is a smooth and reliable coating.

Working with sheet material is really simple, but in order to avoid mistakes, you should follow a few simple recommendations:

  • regardless of the purpose of the room, use only waterproof boards;
  • joints should pass along the lags;
  • sheets should not be laid end-to-end, but with gaps of 2–3 mm between them and at least 5 mm from the wall, subsequently the joints are filled with foam;
  • for fastening the plates, it is necessary to use wood screws, the length of which is at least one and a half times the thickness of the plate.

Do not try to save on material. It is important not to forget that the reliability of the product consists of the quality of parts and components plus good work. In order to make good rough floors in a wooden house, you need to soberly assess your strengths.

Yes, this is not the most difficult thing, but you definitely cannot do without the initial skills of a builder and the ability to work with the material. It may be worthwhile to involve a specialist in the work, at least not be afraid to ask for advice.

The subfloor is a prepared base for the finishing coat: laminate, linoleum, parquet. The subfloor is wood and concrete.

Advantages of a wooden floor:

  • environmental friendliness;
  • thermal insulation;
  • good breathability.

The disadvantage of a rough wooden floor is that this design does not resist well. high humidity. Therefore, wooden logs cannot be installed in baths and steam rooms.

Concrete screed also has its advantages:

  • durability;
  • soundproofing;
  • high strength;
  • resistance to moisture, burning and chemical attack;
  • fast installation and affordable price.

The disadvantage of the screed is its cold surface. Such a floor must be insulated.

Regardless of the choice of floor, the technology for the implementation of both structures is laborious and requires careful work.

Do-it-yourself wooden floor

The implementation of a wooden floor has its own technology:

  1. Wood preparation.
  2. Framing arrangement.
  3. Insulation lining.

As the bars of the subfloor, you can use wood of the second or third grade. Those sides of the bars on which the floor covering will be laid should be leveled.

There are two ways to install logs: on the floor or on the base.

According to the first method, it is necessary to lay the logs bottom strapping and make grooves in them in those places where the logs of the upper trim will spread. The depth of the grooves is equal to the width of the upper bars.

The harness must be securely installed. To do this, perform brick columns that will serve as a support for the lags.

Installation of columns is carried out at the initial stage of the subfloor. This design is also called "pillar foundation". The technology is like this:

  1. Holes are dug along the line of the overlap at the same distance from each other. Pits size: 20x20x40 mm.
  2. Gravel and sand are covered with layers at the bottom, tamping well. Then lay the reinforcing mesh.
  3. Pits are poured sand-cement mortar. Cement, sand and water are taken respectively in the following parts: 1:3:0.5.
  4. Roofing material is laid on the hardened concrete.
  5. Build brick pillars.

The distance between the lags depends on the thickness of the wood material: the thinner the timber, the closer the lags are. The stacked beams must be fixed to each other.

The device of the log "on the base" involves the removal of the top layer of soil and backfilling the surface with fine gravel. Logs with overlap are laid on the resulting base, as in the previous version.

A waterproofing film is laid on the lower base, and a layer of insulation is laid on top.

At this stage, you need to decide on the finish coat. If it's leafy chipboard material, then before laying it, it is recommended to carry out a crate of transverse bars, which are fixed on supports.

Flooring sheets are laid on the crate so that their joints are located in the center of the lintels.

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Draft concrete floor

When pouring the subfloor, flaws and irregularities are allowed.

The purpose of the rough screed is to equalize large surface differences in height and create a base for the finishing screed.

The step by step guide looks like this:

  1. Determine the differences in irregularities and install beacons.
  2. Prepare the base.
  3. Prepare the cement mixture and pour the floor.
  4. Check the condition of the tie.

First, you need to clean the surface of debris and use the level to determine the height of the screed.

Heaps of cement mixture of the required height serve as beacons, on which a metal profile is laid. The guides are fixed with a solution. The height of the profiles is the level of the future screed.

For good adhesion of the rough screed to the base, it must be prepared. To begin with, all large depressions and cracks must be repaired with mortar. Next, the surface is primed to improve the adhesion of concrete to the base surface.

All wires will be embedded in the screed. But before pouring, all communications must be wrapped with insulating material and fixed to the base with dowels.

A damper tape must be glued along the perimeter of the room, which compensates for the deformation of the screed.

To prepare the solution, cement and sand are taken in a ratio of 1: 3. Water is added to the mixture gradually, until the consistency of sour cream is obtained. Approximately, the water consumption is 0.5 kg per 1 kg of cement-sand mixture.

Necessary tools for preparing the mortar and pouring the screed:

  • shovel;
  • mortar container or electric concrete mixer;
  • buckets;
  • overalls.

The solution is poured between the beacons and the rail - the rule distributes it. If voids form, then the mixture is reported to those places and equalized again.

The cement mixture must be prepared in small portions, as the solution quickly hardens. It is recommended to fill the floor in one day so that the surface is uniform.

When drying, the screed may shrink. To prevent this, you must take the following measures:

  1. The first 3 days you can not walk on the screed.
  2. Exclude drafts and direct sunlight in the room.
  3. The next day after pouring, the screed must be covered with a film.

A good subfloor is the key to a solid structure of the entire room. Quality installation and strict adherence to technology will allow the foundation to serve for many decades.