Do-it-yourself homemade furniture. Furniture made of wood with their own hands. What you need to take care of before making furniture

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The design of any room involves not only the selection and floor, but also the arrangement of furniture. The latter largely determines how comfortable and convenient it will be to use a particular room. It is not always possible to immediately purchase a ready-made version, and custom-made production can be quite a costly undertaking. In such a situation, it is best to make furniture with your own hands from wood, choosing the right solution for configuration and design.

Homemade furniture can be beautiful

The choice in favor of wood is made due to the advantages of this natural material:

• Durability. Subject to the production technology and the formation of a protective layer, it is possible to guarantee a long service life of products made from solid wood. Adhering to certain recommendations for the care of a wooden surface, you can use it for half a century;
• Presentability. Products create a special atmosphere, becoming the center of attention of others;
• naturalness;
• Ergonomics. When developing furniture sets, the characteristics of specific people are taken into account;
• maintainability;
• Choice of finishes;
• Uniqueness. No one else will have exactly the same furniture.

The manufacture of wooden furniture is most often performed from wood panels, which can be:

• Solid, made of solid wood;
• Glued or pressed. In the production of such shields, thin wooden sheets are securely interconnected, forming a complete material.

Attention! Shields are indispensable in the manufacture of cabinet furniture for the kitchen, hall, nursery, tables.

For the manufacture of furniture with your own hands from furniture panels, you can use material of various colors. In the manufacturers' catalogs there is a tree of light and dark colors. This will allow you to choose suitable option for a specific interior.

If the cost of ready-made shields seems too high, you can make furniture with your own hands from improvised means. In this case, you will have to show a certain imagination so that the found branch, snag, bough or left after building materials pallets have become part of the future product.

If the square of the building is relatively small, and you want to dispose of it wisely, you should pay attention to folding products. When assembled, they take up little space. When unfolded, they allow you to comfortably accommodate.

Bench configuration and color may vary.

Options for making do-it-yourself furniture for summer cottages made of wood

It is easy to make a country house cozy. For this, it is not necessary to purchase new material. You can use wooden boxes. Having bought accessories, you can make a stylish one.

To have a place to sit, it is worth making upholstered furniture. The frame of the sofa should be cut out of durable wood so that it can withstand the operational load.

Making country furniture from wood according to the photo with your own hands, you should pay attention to the possibility of choosing upholstery and finishes. In this case, the finished chair can become a serious competitor to expensive products from elite manufacturers.

Options for making do-it-yourself furniture in a wooden bath

Given the special operating conditions, it is better to use hardwood for the manufacture of such products. Coniferous varieties should be immediately abandoned, so during operation, resin may appear on the surface of the finished product.

To store things in the dressing room, you can make a bench with drawers. The standard height will be enough to accommodate most bath accessories.

After the bath, many gather in. Having made a bench, table and high-quality wood, you can comfortably relax after bath procedures.

Advice! Apply a protective compound to slow down the rotting process in conditions high humidity and significant temperature fluctuations.

Options for making furniture for the kitchen

A kitchen set must have a number of properties. On the one hand, it should be beautiful, on the other - functional. For those who do not like ornament and sophistication, it is definitely worth making kitchen furniture made of wood with their own hands without any decoration. Such a set would look appropriate in a private or country house.

If this option seems too simple, you can transform the set by decorating the facade for the kitchen with carvings with your own hands. What pattern will be formed, in this case, it does not matter. Ready product in any case, it will turn out beautiful and non-standard.

If limited, it is worth considering the option of making a desktop with a special niche for the table at which the family will dine.

Do-it-yourself wooden furniture restoration: the procedure is curled from defects

No matter how carefully the owners treat their furniture during operation, minor mechanical damage will certainly appear on its surface, worsening appearance products. If the strength characteristics of the product are not lost, everyone will think about how to update wood furniture with their own hands. The procedure will depend on the nature and depth of the defects that have appeared.

Remove scuffs and minor scratches

Small defects can be removed using special retouching markers and pencils. Such products are sold in specialized stores and are different colors. To restore a certain surface, it is worth choosing a tool that is close in tone.

Manufacturers offer:

• Retouching markers, consisting of opaque quick-drying enamel different shades. Such compounds are not afraid of exposure detergents and eliminates the need for a protective layer of varnish. If the desired shade is not commercially available, the desired color can be obtained by applying several layers of marker;
• Alcohol-based retouching pencils. Allow to leave visible texture of wood. Does not harm the base. The basis of the pencil is alcohol stain. To increase the durability of the formed coating, the restored surface should be covered with a layer of protective varnish;
• Retouching texture pencils. Created specifically for drawing the texture of wood. Thin rods allow you to repeat the contours of any defect, including those located in a hard-to-reach place. After application, wax or coat with a layer of varnish.

Get rid of deep scratches and chips

Deep scratches are characterized by a large extent. If you use a special wax, the damage will become almost invisible. Manufacturers offer various formulations that differ in color and hardness. When using a transparent composition, a subsequent application of a layer of enamel or tinting varnish will be required.

Advice! Before applying wax to the surface to be reconstructed, the composition should be warmed up well, and then rubbed in, making smooth movements.

More will be required to hide chips and dents. You should choose a composition close to the base color. The putty is applied in several layers, waiting for the previous composition to dry completely. After removing the defect, use fine sandpaper to level the bases. After that, an additional layer of varnish is applied.

We remove stains

Gasoline will certainly help to get rid of traces of unclear origin on a polished base. For this you need:

• Soak a rag in gasoline;
• Wipe the stain;
• Repeat the steps if there is contamination after drying;
• Wipe the base with a rag;
• Use denatured alcohol or linseed oil to restore damaged polish.

Attention! With the help of vodka or alcohol, you can get rid of stains left by hot objects.

The kitchen and wardrobe are almost the easiest types of furniture for beginners to assemble (not counting only bedside tables and shelves). In general, furniture for the living room and bedroom usually requires a more serious approach, using non-standard materials, glass. This article will help beginners understand how to make furniture on their own.

Wood in its pure form is almost never used in cabinet furniture; the array is considered an expensive elite material.

Now the tree is being replaced with a cheaper material - laminated chipboard (abbreviated chipboard). Most often, these plates have a thickness of 16 mm, on sale you can also find laminated chipboard with a thickness of 10 and 22 mm. 10 mm sheets are usually used to fill the doors of wardrobes, and 22 mm - for bookcases and shelves where high bending strength is required. Also, sometimes with the help of elements from chipboard 22 mm they decorate the structure.

Almost all furniture parts are made of 16 mm chipboard (except for doors and facades).

Laminated chipboard

The cutting of chipboard is carried out on special machines along the guides. Of course, you can saw it off at home with a jigsaw, but then there will be chips and wavy bumps on the edges. It is almost impossible to saw off a chipboard exactly with a jigsaw at home.

edges

The most vulnerable spot of chipboard is its cut. It is easiest for moisture to penetrate through it, therefore, with poor protection, the ends may soon swell. Therefore, the ends are closed with the help of edges, there are several types of them.

• • Melamine edge - the cheapest, but poor quality. You can stick it at home with an iron.

• • PVC edge 0.4 and 2 mm – best option. It can be glued only on a special machine, so they make it immediately when ordering a cut. To save money, 0.4 mm is glued to invisible ends, and 2 mm to external ones, which will experience constant loads and friction.

PVC edge 2 mm

• • ABS edging - similar to PVC, only made of environmentally friendly material.
  • Mortise T-profile - inserted into a groove previously made by a cutter. Rarely used.

• • Overhead U-profile - can be easily glued at home on liquid nails. The main disadvantage is that the edges will protrude by several millimeters, so dirt gets clogged under it. On the other hand, this drawback allows you to hide a poor-quality cut.

facades

Kitchen facades and furniture doors are usually made of more elegant material. But if you are making a drawer door inside a wardrobe that no one will see, you can also use a regular 16 mm chipboard with a 2 mm PVC edge for it. But cabinets in the kitchen should look more presentable.

The facade is a separate furniture element. It is usually made to order. If the dimensions of the facades are non-standard, their production may take several months.

You can easily navigate by standard sizes: usually the facades are made 2 mm smaller than the cabinet itself on each side. Therefore, for a standard 600 mm cabinet, a 596 mm front is used.

The height of the kitchen cabinet also depends on the facade and ranges from 715 to 725 mm for floor cabinets (without legs) and low wall cabinets, and 915-925 mm for high cabinets. wall cabinets.

Types of facades

Since the facades perform mainly a decorative function, the choice is huge, they differ in appearance and material.

• • Facades made of laminated MDF. This is a pressed material, more moisture resistant and dense, compared to chipboard. Most often, the surface is laminated "under the tree." But no matter how strong the film is, over time at the edges it can move away and crack. The main advantage of this material is its low price and fast production.

Facades from MDF

• • In addition to standard blank facades, there are also options with figured cutouts for stained glass. Glass is attached to the lining on the reverse side.
  • Softforming - such facades are similar to ordinary MDF, but have a characteristic two-color layout with a relief on both sides. They can only be used in dry rooms, bedrooms or living rooms.

• • Postforming - even better and more durable products. Thin plastic is wrapped around the edges by 90° or 180°, which eliminates unnecessary seams at the corners. Chipboard or MDF boards are used as the basis. Usually, postforming is done in a strict form, without unnecessary pretentious decorative elements.

• • Plastic facades are of high quality, but expensive. They consist of a base (chipboard / MDF), lined on both sides with thick plastic. They always have a strict design and a flat surface, glossy or matte. The edges of the slab are sometimes protected with ABS edging or aluminum profiles. Recently, super-gloss acrylic plastic has become especially popular.

Plastic facades in aluminum profile

• • Facades made of wood and veneer are suitable for lovers of natural materials, but they are expensive. In addition, there are long disputes about environmental friendliness: it is believed that there are so many varnishes and impregnations here that only one name remains from the tree.

• • Enamel painted facades. They have a significant drawback - the surface is vulnerable to scratches and deformations, has a low chemical resistance. They used to be popular for their rich color, but with the advent of glossy acrylic plastic, everything has changed.

• Aluminum facades with glass - suitable for a high-tech kitchen. They look modern, but are difficult to manufacture and install. For their fastening, non-standard fittings are used.

Back walls and drawer bottoms

The back wall and bottom of the drawers are most often made of HDPE. The smooth side of the sheet should look inside the cabinet / drawer. The thickness of the sheets is 3-5 mm, the color is selected according to the chipboard.

Some people prefer to attach HDF to a furniture stapler, but this cannot be done. Over time, the staples loosen and the structure can warp. It’s not worth talking about the bottom of the boxes - the stapler is clearly not suitable for fastening.

Furniture HDPE

Sometimes it is inserted into the groove prepared by the cutter, but all dimensions must match to the millimeter.

Most often, HDPE is attached to nails or self-tapping screws. It is better to use self-tapping screws with a press washer, but before screwing them in, you need to drill a hole, otherwise the product may crack.

In rare cases, for example, to create a "stiffening rib" in a tall cabinet or in drawers with high loads, fiberboard is replaced with chipboard. These materials can also be combined.

Countertops

A countertop is a horizontal work surface on which you can cook, eat, read, write, etc.

Most office and desks, as well as for cheap dining rooms, the countertop is made of the same chipboard as the main parts. The thickness is 16 or 22 mm, it is obligatory to frame the PVC with a 2 mm edge.

For the kitchen, special countertops are used. They are a sheet of chipboard with a thickness of 28-38 mm, which is covered with durable plastic on top using postforming technology. Moisture-resistant countertops are green on the cut, and ordinary chipboard is gray. correct kitchen countertop must have a drip collector, which will prevent the ingress of flowing liquid onto the facades and into the drawers.

The weak point of such countertops is the saw cut edge. Usually they are covered with a simple melamine edge, so they become unusable in the first year of operation. To avoid this, it is recommended to protect the edges with special aluminum profiles (end plate), and to protect against moisture, pre-lubricate the saw cut with silicone sealant.

There are also other types of profile: corner and connecting strip, which are needed to join several cabinets with different countertops.

Corner, connecting and end strip for worktop

Another element is a decorative corner that closes the gap between the wall and the countertop.

Sometimes used to finish an apron wall panel. Unlike tiles or mosaics, they are more practical due to the absence of seams and inexpensive compared to glass aprons.

The fastening of the tabletop to the cabinets is done from below with short self-tapping screws to the horizontal struts so as not to spoil the smooth front surface.

Countertops made of natural or artificial stone are of higher quality and more durable than others. A natural stone heavy and demanding special care due to high porosity. BUT fake diamond does not have such shortcomings, it can be given any size and shape. The main disadvantage of stone countertops is the high price; for a small kitchen, they cost from 40 thousand rubles. and more.

An alternative option is a tile or porcelain stoneware countertop. You can make it yourself, but the tiles cannot be mounted on ordinary plywood or chipboard. Previously, the base must be sheathed with cement-fiber sheets.

Location of parts

A detail is any element of cabinet furniture: covers, countertops, walls, facades, shelves. Each item can be either nested or invoiced. Right choice the type of location is very important.

Consider examples of two kitchen cabinets: one of them will stand on legs, and the second will be suspended.

Floor cabinet:

As you can see in the photo, the operating voltage in the floor cabinet is directed downwards from the cover and in the first version is naturally transmitted through the parts to the legs of the cabinet.

In the second, incorrect version, the load is transmitted through the confirm (furniture screw), and because of this, it will be pulled out of the part for a break.

Wall cabinet:

In the second example, the opposite is true: the load will go to the bottom shelf, and the attachment point will be on top.

If we apply here the same fastening scheme as in the floor cabinet (option 1), all 4 bolts will be constantly under load to pull out of the wood. Therefore, it is better if the confirmers experience a fracture load (see the “correct” diagram).

Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware (metal products) that are used to connect parts. Most often, the connections are made at right angles.

• • Wooden dowels - inserted into pre-drilled holes in both parts. They are used for pre-fixing and strengthening the load "on the cut", then the parts are fixed in a more reliable way.

• • Furniture corners are a popular but outdated type of furniture fastening. Among the minuses: appearance, loosening over time and bulkiness.

furniture corner

The main disadvantage of this type of fastening is that the caps screwed flush remain in sight. To hide them, use plastic plugs in the color of chipboard.

furniture fittings

• • Handles - everything is clear here. Usually fastened with screws.
  • Legs - convenient in rooms where wet cleaning of the floor is often done, for example, in the kitchen. From daily contact with water, any wood, and especially chipboard, will quickly deteriorate. In addition, due to the legs, furniture can be leveled on uneven surfaces.
  • A silicone damper is a cheap but very useful part that can reduce the noise of impacts from cabinet doors. Sticks on the top and bottom of the door or cabinet end to soften the impact.

• • Furniture hinges. Round cutouts for them (additives) in the facades can be made in any furniture workshop, if the manufacturer has not made them in advance. The hinges differ in the degree of opening of the doors. Standard hinges have an opening angle of 180° and a closed angle of 90°.
    The hinges have a special mechanism that allows you to adjust the doors in height and landing depth. For glass doors separate hinges are sold, glass can be clamped into them without drilling a hole.

Furniture hinges

From inexpensive manufacturers of accessories, we can recommend the Chinese Boyard, from serious world manufacturers - the Austrian Blum.

Drawers and guides

There are many ways to make furniture boxes. The easiest of them is to assemble the perimeter from chipboard. If you want to beautiful facade, it is screwed overlay on the main frame from the inside (like the countertop). Also, the facade can be mounted on eccentrics as the fourth wall of the box.

But the main thing is not to assemble the drawer, but to fix it correctly.

Guides for boxes are divided into roller or ball.

• • Roller guides are usually attached to the bottom of the box. He will ride on them on two rollers. A pair of such guides costs about 150 rubles, but it is highly not recommended to use them. The main disadvantage is that they do not allow the drawer to be pulled out completely, a heavy drawer in the more than half open position can simply fall.
  • Ball guides, or as they are also called, “full extension telescopic guides” are capable of exactly doubling the length. They have many balls inside, like in bearings, so they provide a smooth ride.

Roller and ball guides for drawers

• In addition, Blum has metaboxes and tandemboxes. These are ready-made side walls of boxes with installed guides. It remains only to install the facade, back wall and bottom.

Doors for wardrobes

The sliding wardrobe can be separate (with side and rear walls), or built into a niche or corner (with one side wall). The internal filling can be anything: ordinary shelves and mezzanines, drawers and baskets, clothes rails, special hangers for trousers, ties, etc.

The main element of the wardrobe - sliding doors. You can’t save on them, you need to buy high-quality fittings, otherwise then you will be tormented with falling and jamming doors. In almost any city you can find domestic sliding systems Aristo is not a problem.

The sliding wardrobe usually has 2-3 doors. They consist of a profiled frame, inside which are inserted decorative elements: mirrors and glass, chipboard, rattan, bamboo sheets, faux leather(based). Each door can be assembled from a combination of several of these materials, which are separated aluminum profile. In width, it is not recommended to make doors more than 1 m.

Standard profiles are designed for a web thickness of 10 mm. But how to insert a 4 mm thick mirror into it? To do this, a silicone sealant is put on the edge of the mirror. So that in the event of a blow, broken glass does not hurt anyone, you need to order a mirror with a film glued to the wrong side.

The movement of the doors goes along the guides, they are installed from above and below. The lower doors provide forward and backward movement, and the upper ones fix the door relative to the depth of the cabinet.

The bottom rollers are usually made of plastic, have a shock-absorbing spring and a height adjustment screw. The top rollers have a rubberized surface.
With the proper approach, home-made furniture turns out to be cheaper and better than those exhibited in stores. But besides this, it will be exclusive, precisely suited to the needs of the owners and the features of the room.

If you have long dreamed of learning how to work with wood, do not waste time. Get started today. After all, simple furniture and do-it-yourself wood crafts (see drawings and photos) can be made without carpentry skills. There would be a desire.

Woodworking tools

For the manufacture of most products, it is not at all necessary to purchase special equipment. In most cases, you can get by with a standard set of tools.

As a rule, for woodworking at home, you do not need to buy special equipment

So, we will need:

To connect the parts, wood screws will be needed. To obtain a stronger connection, you will need screws or bolts with nuts. It's great if there is a circular saw in the garage.

In principle, for cutting a small number of parts, a bow saw is enough. If you wish, you can contact any carpentry workshop and order blanks of the required size there.

In the absence of a screwdriver, prepare small holes with a diameter half that of the screws themselves. Screwing them in by hand will be much easier.

In the future, if working with wood fascinates you, for the manufacture of complex parts and round blanks can be purchased cheap lathe- it will cost 7-12 thousand rubles. If the house has an old electric motor, for example, from washing machine, it will not be difficult to make such a machine yourself.

Do not work with a tree that has just been brought in from the cold. It should lie down for a day.

Furniture

It is problematic to make complex types of furniture at home. But here is an ordinary stool, a bench, a shelf, a bed and even a wardrobe made of wood, using photos and drawings, even a novice carpenter is quite capable of making.

Stool

This type of furniture is always useful in the workshop, garage, kitchen or cottage. The stool can be stationary, folding, have different leg lengths, seat shapes, etc.

The design of the stool can be complicated by making it upper part in the form of a storage box. In the house, a folding stool-stepladder will definitely come in handy. By lengthening the legs of a regular stool, you get a bar stool.

We will begin work with the manufacture of the simplest product.

For its manufacture we need:

• bars for legs, tsarg (bars under the seat) and prolegs with a section of 35-50 mm
• several boards for making seats or plywood; its standard size is 350-430mm
• self-tapping screws
• metal corners (crackers) to strengthen the structure, we will mount them under the seat

We describe the main stages of work:

1 Look at the photo above. Assembling the stool is easy. The four legs of the stool are first connected with the help of prolegs and tsargs (bars located directly under the seat). Then the seat itself is attached.

2 The standard length of the legs is 45-50 cm. For their manufacture, you can buy a bar or saw a 200 mm board. This size is most convenient - it will make 4 bars of 50 mm each.

3 We prepare some boards for sitting.

4 To make the structure stable, they are cut strictly at 90 degrees.

5 When cutting drawstrings and prolegs, be sure to consider the length of the spikes.

6 We process each detail first with sandpaper No. 40-60, and then go through them twice with finer sandpaper.

7 The fastening of the tsarg and prolegs on self-tapping screws will be unreliable - the product will loosen. For connection use rectangular spikes and grooves. To do this, mark their location. The width of the spike is 1/3 of the thickness of the tsarg or proleg. Length - 80% of the thickness.

8 We start the work with the preparation of the grooves - it will be easier to fit the spikes. To get a groove in the leg, it is first better to drill several holes in a row with a drill. The rest of the tree is selected manually with a chisel.

9 In the absence milling machine spikes are made using a rasp and a jigsaw.

10 We connect the legs of the stool in pairs (two each) with the drawers and prolegs. If everything is correct, we drip glue into the grooves and insert blanks with spikes into them.

11 To glue the seat boards together, coat them on the sides and tighten the seat with a clamp.

12 After the glue dries, we additionally strengthen the legs with the sides using metal corners.

13 We fasten the seat with screws to the legs and sides. The stool is ready.

Joiner's glue dries for at least a day. When working in a cold garage, this time increases.

Bench

Making a bench or bench out of wood is even easier. This design is in many ways reminiscent of a stool. The only new detail is the back. To mount it, a pair of bench legs will need to be lengthened.

1 The biggest difficulty is the manufacture of the rear legs. Their upper part is made with a slight slope for the convenience of attaching the back. But since there are only two such parts, they can be cut without the use of special equipment using a conventional bow saw.

2 If there is no desire to mess around with cutting complex workpieces, the rear legs can be made inclined. Just remember that to ensure stability, the bottom of the legs must be cut at the same angle.

3 For greater stability, it is better to place the prongs not in the center, but at the bottom.

4 To strengthen the structure, as shown in the photo, they can be interconnected by a transverse bar.

Chair

Since the manufacture of an ordinary chair with a back, in principle, differs little from the assembly of a stool and a bench, and you can already handle it on your own, we will complicate the task and make a folding chair made of wood.

1 It will not take up much space in the car, and you can always take it with you on a picnic or fishing trip.

2 In order not to be mistaken in the calculations, make a sample of a smaller scale from cardboard. Measure each of the details. If the design turned out to be stable, you can begin to manufacture the product.

3 Cooking first 2 wooden frame. In the upper part of one of them we fasten a pair of rails that will serve as a back. At the bottom of the frame, we fix the prong on the screws or with a tongue-and-groove connection (we described it a little higher).

4 We make the second frame a little shorter. We also attach a proleg to the bottom. In the upper part we attach 3-4 seat rails.

5 Since the legs of the chair will be inclined, their cutting angle will not be 90, as usual, but 45 degrees.

6 To obtain a strong connection, the seat and back are also fastened not with self-tapping screws, but with a tenon-groove connection.

7 You can replace the back and seat with a strong canvas stretched over the frame.

8 So that our chair does not move apart when unfolded, we install four restrictive paired bars under the seat. They won't let him fully develop.

9 If the back and seat are covered with canvas, a narrow strip of fabric is pulled between the lower jumpers. It will serve as a limiter and will not allow the chair to develop.

10 With a hacksaw, we cut the axle bolts along the length. We fix them on the legs of the chair closer to the seat. If you install them in the center of the legs, the design will be less stable. Screw cap nuts onto the ends.

11 In order for the frame to close tightly, the nuts must be slightly sunk into the wood.

12 You can replace wood with plywood. Cutting even curved parts out of it with an electric jigsaw will not be difficult. Straight cuts are made with a regular hacksaw. The design of such a chair will be slightly different. To assemble it, grooves are cut in plywood.

The simplest wooden shelf

Let's start making another product - wooden shelves. In the future, on their basis, you will be able to produce more complex products.

1 After sawing the boards, their ends are sanded first with large and then fine sandpaper.

2 It is necessary to grind and stain the product before the end of the assembly. After all, even small joints are always clearly visible.

3 It is better to paint over a perfectly sanded wood with a stain - on a dark surface, any scratches and chips will be evident.

4 There is a stain of different shades on sale: dark or light oak, walnut, cherry, hazelnut, etc. Learn that after drying it brightens a little. When applying new layers, the wood becomes darker. More than two layers should not be applied, otherwise the surface will become spotty.

5 Due to the orientation of the fibers, the ends always look darker after staining. To reduce absorption, it is better to prime them first.

6 Its drying time is about 12 hours. Then the product is varnished on top.

7 After the blanks are completely dry, on the sides of the future shelf we make markings for attaching horizontally located planks.

8 In the absence of a screwdriver, we drill small holes for fasteners. Their diameter should be half the diameter of the screws.

9 Initially, it is not worth screwing them in too tightly. We do this only after checking the correctness of the assembly.

10 We close the fastening points of the screws with plugs to match the color of our tree. They can be purchased at any furniture store.

11 By the same principle, you can make a shoebox out of wood (photos and drawings can be found on the net). Its back wall is covered with plywood, screwed to the ends of the shelf with self-tapping screws.

12 If it is necessary to make jumpers in the product, they are fastened to horizontal shelves using round wooden spikes (dowels) inserted into pre-prepared holes, or self-tapping screws. To fix the board, 1-2 spikes are enough, which are pre-coated with glue.

13 To hang a small shelf weighing 3-5 kg, purchase mounting loops and dowel-screws 6x30. Heavy structures are fixed with metal anchors in the shape of the letter "G".

14 Learn that screwing shelves to a drywall wall in the usual way will not work. They are fixed only through the embedded bars, which are sewn into the wall in advance.

Do not overdo it with glue - it is applied in a thin layer in drops or a thin stream. When it dries a little, remove the excess. It is more convenient to do this with a clean paint scraper.

Table

garden table

Having built a table from wood, you can install it in the kitchen, in the bathhouse or in the garden house.

1 The length of the tabletop depends on the number of seats. 50-60 cm is enough for one person.

2 Standard table height - 165 cm.

3 First, an underframe is made - a frame consisting of legs and drawers - connecting elements for fastening the tabletop and legs.

4 According to the standards, only spike connections. However, even furniture factories last years use less durable connections in the form of dowels (plug-in cylindrical rods, popularly called chopiks) and self-tapping screws. If you don’t want to mess around with cutting out the spikes, be sure to reinforce the corners of the underframe with “crackers” - metal or wooden fasteners.

5 But still, studs with semi-darkness are a more durable connection for the legs and the side, when part of the stud in the upper part is cut out halfway. They must be glued on.

6 The tabletop is assembled from boards, paying attention to the direction of the fibers, so that when the wood dries, there are no problems with skew. Pay attention to the texture of the boards. At successful combination wood pattern, the product will turn out to be more original, and the joints will be less conspicuous.

7 The boards of the tabletop are interconnected with dowels and dowels (wooden chopsticks). To do this, 8-12 mm holes are prepared at the ends. It is necessary to drop a little glue into them, carefully distribute it with a wooden torch and insert a dowel inside. The finished tabletop is tightly pulled together and left to dry completely.

The design of the garden table may be somewhat different. To strengthen its legs, it is pulled together with transverse bars, as shown in the diagram below.

It will be a big disappointment if, during assembly, the prepared parts do not fit perfectly with each other. Always check any connection at once.

Hallway

Cabinet furniture is more difficult to manufacture. Let's start learning how to assemble it from wood from the hallway. You can make it from furniture panels left over from old furniture, grooved boards, chipboard or plywood.

Hallway furniture option

It is necessary to stock up on accessories. Depending on the design, we may need door hinges, ties, metal bars for hanging hangers, etc.

1 The design of the hallway can be any. Below we have provided only one of the possible drawings. If desired, a variety of its configurations can be found on the network.

2 The simplest screed used to assemble the case are metal corners and self-tapping screws. On each side you will need 3-4 fasteners.

3 More expensive, but also the most durable fasteners are special furniture ties, for example, extratrical. It is completely recessed into the tree and does not cling to stored things.

4 When cutting out the body parts, do not forget to file the corners for the skirting boards at the bottom.

5 The back wall of plywood, adjacent to the wall, is fixed with an overlay or a quarter with ordinary screws. The latter method gives a stronger connection.

6 Shelf supports are used to install shelves. The simplest of these is a metal or plastic pin.

7 Hang the doors on any kind of hinges. First, mark up with a pencil through the holes. To prevent the door from loosening quickly, retreat at least 10 cm from the top and bottom. For heavy doors, it is better to use not 2, but 3-4 loops.

8 To prevent pencil graphite from being erased, after checking the correct connection, mark the places of future holes with a nail or awl.

9 Be sure to check that the hinges do not fall on the level of the shelves - they will not allow the door to close completely.

10 After hanging the sash, it needs to be adjusted.

Bed

Drawings of a wooden bed for assembly are not so difficult. We will describe only its principles.

1 In order not to be mistaken with the size of the sleeping bed, before proceeding with the assembly of the bed, purchase a mattress.

2 Do not make the frame back to back. After all, the mattress over time slightly "spreads" on the sides. Therefore, add 1 cm to the frame on each side.

3 For the manufacture of the case, you will need old furniture boards or planed boards. Use a stronger wood conifers.

4 First, the frame is assembled using metal corners or special furniture ties and self-tapping screws.

5 To lay the mattress, it is necessary to install several jumpers made of durable boards across the frame. After assembling the frame, plywood 12 mm thick is laid on them.

6 Another option for fastening the mattress is wooden lining at the bottom of the frame, on which cross slats are laid.

7 If desired, a U-shaped storage box with a hinged top cover can be made at the head of the headboard.

There are many options for making a bed.

Crafts for giving

Purchase for suburban area expensive products do not always make sense. It is much easier to assemble a table, chairs, benches and benches from old furniture or planed boards left after construction. From them you can build a swing, a gazebo, and from a junk wooden material- birdhouse.

birdhouse

It turns out that a single bird is capable of destroying a thousand harmful insect larvae in a season. Therefore, a birdhouse in the country, made by hand, will be most welcome here.

1 Its width is always standard - 10-12 cm. The height is selected depending on the type of birds that you want to attract to your site. So, for starlings, a house 60 cm high is required, but for tits, flycatchers, redstarts, it should be low - up to 26 cm.

2 Woodpeckers will need a dwelling in the form of a triangle. A birdhouse for wagtails is always laid on its side and a trapik is attached to it. The flycatcher needs a birdhouse with a notch in the form of a gap, and the robins need a house with a slightly open front wall.

3 For the manufacture of a house for birds, only tes is used. After all, the inner sides of their dwellings and the facade should be rough. On a smooth surface, it will be difficult for the chicks to get out. For the same reason, the house is never painted or varnished. If there is no tesa at hand, you can use a planed board, on which notches are manually applied.

4 Never use a coniferous tree to create a home for birds. Wings smeared in resin, for birds - certain death.

5 Draft is dangerous for chicks, so saw the boards at 90 degrees so that no gaps form when they are connected. The birdhouse is never glued, but only knocked down with nails or twisted with screws. After all, the glue will scare away sensitive birds. For the same reason, you should not take chipboard or plywood for building a house.

6 To make the bird house easy to clean, provide a removable cover. It is better to stuff a workpiece on it equal to internal dimensions birdhouse. Such a dense cover will never be torn off by the wind.

7 You can also hang the lid on ordinary hinges. In this case, be sure to provide a hook or latch.

8 4 cm perch attached with glue. Its diameter is 1 cm.

9 A long pole is nailed to the back of the birdhouse.

10 Lay moss, tow or sawdust on the bottom. To protect against drafts and bad weather, carefully coat all the cracks.

11 A birdhouse is fixed at a height of 3 m with an entrance to the east or southeast. For starlings, an even greater height is required, up to 8 m. To prevent raindrops from falling inside, it is better to tilt it slightly forward. To prevent cats from reaching the dwelling, when hanging it on a tree, remove large neighboring branches.

The birdhouse is always placed in the shade - in summer time in the open sun, the chicks will be uncomfortable.

Never make a birdhouse larger than the standard size. This will encourage the birds to lay more eggs than they can feed. As a result, some of the chicks will simply die.

Swing

Plastic Chinese swings are not very durable, they are enough for one or two seasons. It makes no sense to spend extra money on expensive products if there is lumber on hand left after repair or construction. Solid wooden swing made of wood will delight both children and adults.

For racks and swings, use durable wooden bars section from 100 mm.

We will also need:

• board for the manufacture of a seat with a thickness of 3 cm
• metal chains or thick rope
• several carabiners for hanging it; you can replace them with bolts and studs
• sand and cement for pouring pillars into the ground
• metal corners and screws

On the concrete surface you should not install a swing - after all, if you fall, the probability of injury will be very high. Choose a place for them on a lawn or soft sand.

Make sure that there are no protruding rebars, large stones and tree branches nearby.

1 The height of the children's swing is from 2 m. If adults also use them, increase it to 3.5 m or a little higher.

2 The swing support can be U- or A-shaped. In the latter case, the pillars can not be buried in the ground.

3 When connecting the bars at an angle in the form of the letter "A", provide a crossbar between them. It is pulled together with metal corners and screws. For fasteners, cuts are made in the timber, into which the studs are installed.

4 Do not overtighten the fasteners. Adjust the base first building level, and only then screw in the screws to the end.

5 According to GOST, the frame should be half a meter wider than the seat. Its size is chosen at its own discretion. The seat can be made with or without a back. With a length of 50 cm or more, adults can also use the swing.

6 After cutting the parts, be sure to sand the planed boards.

7 When installing supports for a U-shaped swing, treat the bottom of the pillars with bitumen and wrap with roofing material. This way you protect the tree from premature decay. Cover the remaining wooden parts of the swing with an antiseptic, drying oil, varnish or paint.

8 The supports are buried in the ground by 1 m and must be filled with cement-sand mortar. To protect against underground moisture and frost heaving, cover the bottom of the pit with crushed stone by 20-30 cm. It is necessary to hang the swing only after the cement has gained strength - not earlier than in a week.

Gazebo with 4-pitched roof

Planting and basic watering have come to an end? It's time to start arranging a gazebo made of wood with a hipped roof on the site.

1 It is better to choose a place to rest in the shade of trees, among greenery or surrounded ornamental shrubs. They will be able to protect the gazebo from the piercing wind. It is great if there is a reservoir next to it. Do not just place the building in the lowland - wastewater will heat it up.

2 After clearing the site and leveling it, mark the location of the gazebo with twine and pegs. It should be 1.5 m larger than the size of the structure itself.

3 A light structure will not require a powerful foundation. It is enough to erect columnar supports made of concrete or brick.

4 For a 3x3 m gazebo, you will need 9 concrete or brick supports. They are buried in the ground by 30-40 cm. When using bricks, they are laid on a mortar in 5-6 rows so that the last row rises above the ground.

5 When concreting or laying bricks, metal 10 mm rods 40 cm long are laid in the corner supports so that half of their length (20 cm) is recessed into the support.

6 Now we are preparing the base of the gazebo from the bars. Their optimal section is 100x100 mm. The bars are interconnected with a half-tree fastener. To reinforce such a square or quadrangular base, provide 1-2 transverse beams in it.

7 At the corners in both bars, drill holes for the bars (as you remember, we have already laid their metal rods in the extreme supports). Make the same holes in the bottom of the support pillars.

8 At the top of the supports, immediately prepare rectangular cuts for attaching the roof rafters.

9 After installing the posts and leveling them with a building level, reinforce them with struts located at an angle of 45 degrees.

10 On 4 sides of the assembled frame, we install horizontally running bars - strapping. The harness, located in its lower third, at a height of about 1 m from the ground, will serve as the railing of the gazebo.

11 For the arrangement of the roof you will need a horizontal cross. To do this, select rectangular recesses in the center of the bars for the “half-tree” bundle. To strengthen this fastening, screw wooden blocks in each of the cross corners of the cross.

12 At the top of the support posts, we have already prepared cuts. Now prepare cutouts at the ends of the cross so that their dimensions match the cuts of the supports.

13 Attach the assembled cross to 4 posts.

14 To create the rafters, we need a wooden octahedron, fixed in the center, which will rest on the cross. Its length is 80 cm.

15 In the upper part of the octahedron, we prepare a rectangular cut, to which the first pair of rafters will be attached. This fastening is reinforced with self-tapping screws. The second pair of rafters will be attached overlay on top of the first pair. When trimming the rafters, be sure to leave a small 30 cm overhang above the roof.

16 Four more rafters with their lower ends will lie on the supporting pillars. They are screwed to the octahedron with self-tapping screws.

17 To prevent the roof from being squeezed by snow, you can install a few more support pillars that will rest on the rafter beam and strapping.

Beautiful wooden gate handmade threaded

We will need:

• support posts made of 10x10 mm timber or logs
• wooden beam for frame 3x4 or 4x4 mm
• picket fence, plywood or board (if you will make the gate leaf solid) for sheathing
• galvanized screws and ties
• loops for hanging the gate
• metal or wooden handle
• latch or overhead lock if you plan to close the gate with a key

Time to get to work:

1 Choose the height of the gate at your own discretion. It can go flush with the fence, be lower or higher than it.

2 The principle of its manufacture is simple. First, a frame is made, then a crate is stuffed onto it.

3 The simplest frame for attaching a picket fence is in the form of the letter z or x. The frame has the shape of a rectangle with a board-crossbar (strut) and boards stuffed horizontally or diagonally on it.

4 Old rotten supports are dismantled. If they are strong enough, you can hang a gate on them.

5 Concreting will increase the service life of supports by 2-3 times. For them, pits 0.5-1 m deep are prepared, at the bottom of which crushed stone is poured. It will be able to protect the structure from frost heaving and excess moisture. On loamy soils, the pillars are buried by 1 m; on sandy soil, 0.5 m is enough.

6 It is possible to strengthen the concrete structure by laying reinforcement or rubble stones.

7 The lower part of the supports is fired at the stake or impregnated with bitumen. Then it is wrapped with roofing material.

8 The standard distance between the posts is 1-1.2 m.

9 After installing the supports in the pit, they are leveled with a building level. In the gap between them and the ground is poured cement mortar. Don't forget to pierce it with a shovel to remove voids.

10 You can continue to work only after a week - the cement should be well strengthened.

11 The gate begins to be made only after the installation of the supports - it is necessary to accurately measure the distance between them. The width of its frame is 1 cm less than the distance between the posts. It is collected on a flat area. This will avoid distortion.

12 The frame skin is fixed on self-tapping screws. It can be very different: solid, have windows or be sparse, arranged in the form of a Christmas tree or a semicircle. The design with carved slats looks very decorative.

The furniture business is a business that:

- does not require financial investments;
– has a profitability of 80 to 300%;
- the product of which is used by all civilized people of the earth;
— can exist and develop regardless of the technical equipment of your future enterprise;
- will never end
- every year it develops more and more.

A business that people are already doing and quite successfully... A business that even a full-time student can do.

The furniture business can be dusty, heavy, and problematic, or it can be simple, profitable, and interesting. It all depends on which approach to choose and how to deal with it.

If you are greedy, you will get a lot of work, if you are not greedy, you will earn good and fast money.

I will tell you about both approaches, but I will explain more about the last approach.

Everything is simple. Let's take a concrete example of the manufacture of the most complex type of furniture - the kitchen. Why is the kitchen the hardest thing to do? Because the kitchen package includes the most various fittings and materials, this is the first, and the second - all the details are small, and even the smallest flaws are immediately evident.

Let us take as a basis such an expensive kitchen:

What can be said about her? Large expensive kitchen… Made from the finest modern materials. It is relatively expensive, 48,000 rubles, excluding household appliances, stoves, ovens and microwave oven. Honestly, its price in the store will be more than 15 thousand for sure.

I made this kitchen myself, with my own hands. Nothing worse than in the salons of "Italian" furniture. The facade is made of frame MDF, has a built-in household appliances, lighting, deep drawers, roof rails, long handles. The boxes are made of high-quality German laminated chipboard and glued with a 2mm PVC edge. All fittings installed in the kitchen are German, by Hettish. The cuisine is no worse than Western analogues, neither in quality nor in price.

Can you make your own kitchen? Not? And what is the difficulty? Don't know how it's done? Okay, I'll try to convince you otherwise.

Take another look at this kitchen. Could you assemble it yourself, with your own hands, if you were given everything disassembled, with an understandable sketch of each individual cabinet or bedside table and all the necessary bolts and nuts attached to this “constructor”?

Thought? And if you were given, let's say, 24,000 rubles for collecting it?

And on top for the installation of 8% percent of the total cost, which equals 4,000 rubles?

Would it be worth it to work with your hands for 5-7 days? Do you think no one will give that much for assembling a kitchen? They will! You just need to think a little. Of course, if you buy such a kitchen in a store, then you will receive no more than 3% of the cost for the assembly, and if you “make it yourself”, you will receive at least 50% of its cost ...

Your task is to find everything and order according to certain sizes or buy.

That is, at the first stage, you need to make clear documentation for the product, in which you will have to write out for yourself all the materials and accessories necessary for the manufacture of the kitchen and calculate all possible costs for making the order.

What is the kitchen made of?

And now a little more about what the kitchen consists of and what your job is to make it.

1. Box from chipboard

In any furniture there is a box, which is made of laminated chipboard. Whatever you make - a kitchen, a hallway, a children's room or something else, you need to buy chipboard, saw it and glue the edge.

Where chipboard is sold, sawing services are always provided and it costs no more than 50 rubles per 1 square meter.

There you can also ask to stick an edge - this service costs from 6 rubles per meter (the price does not include the cost of the edge). You can stick the edge yourself - then it will cost 1.5-20 rubles per linear meter.

This kitchen took 18 sq.m. of material. (3 sheets 3500*1750 mm in size and edges no more than 100 meters).

- sawing the material will cost you 18 sq.m. * 55 rubles = 990 rubles;
- pasting the edge of 100 m. * 6 rubles = 600 rubles.

We bought the material in a regular warehouse. If you go for the material yourself, then it will cost you the same as for other specialized furniture workshops, well, maybe 5% more than for them. They may have a discount, like regular customers ...

That is, you are on an equal footing with furniture companies. The only difference is that furniture companies cut materials in their own production, and you take ready-made parts by paying for sawing and gluing. Everything is ordered, no manual work!!!

Facades are also made in factories or in specialized workshops. All furniture makers order them. There are few who buy a machine worth 2,000 euros and fill the warehouse with colorful raw materials in order to make facades for their production.

So you are again on an equal footing with any furniture office. And you and other furniture makers will never make them yourself - only order.

3. Tabletop

Countertops are also made at huge factories, of which there are only 5 in Russia. They have offices in every city. So when buying countertops, you are on an equal footing with everyone.

The fact is that all countertops are sold in sheets of three meters, and its width in the standard version is 60 cm. But you can order any other size. You can also choose any color, there are more than 50 of them.

The only problem is to saw off exactly, to the required size. This problem is solved in the same place where chipboard is sawed to you. Saw off the required size of the countertop costs 20 rubles per cut.

4. Fittings

Fittings include: handles, hinges, edges, hinges, self-tapping screws, ties, guides, chrome pipes, dryers, etc.

Accessories are sold any and in any quantities. You just need to find a place where they sell it.

You can buy anything, if not in stock, they will bring it to order. You will have access to all the same fittings as furniture makers. They also buy everything in a specialized store selling furniture fittings.

Glass is cut in glass workshops to your dimensions. We submitted an application indicating the name of the glass and the size, and received the finished glass. Not difficult, right? Everyone knows this. But not everyone knows about what I have listed above ...

6. Fixtures

I think that each of you has seen the sales departments different lamps. They also sell furniture fixtures. All furniture makers use these departments.

I think you have met departments for the sale of various sinks. They probably even asked themselves the question: “Who needs them, who buys them?” In most cases, furniture makers buy.

8. Technique

Ovens, overhead stoves, hoods are most often bought at Eldorado or other stores selling household appliances.

The beauty of buying at Eldorado is that the owner of future furniture can choose the technique that he likes more, regardless of the price, and of course get a loan for it, which will more affordable furniture. And it is cheaper for him, and you have fewer problems with the purchase.

As for installation, there are special standards for embedded appliances. It makes no difference who the manufacturer is - external, the installation dimension will always be the same. And always attached to such technology detailed instructions for installation and preliminary calculation of pedestals.

What then comes out of all this?

What you need to assemble furniture

All you need is to drill holes for the euro tie to assemble the furniture, install all the necessary fittings, handles, hinges, guides.

Do not think that this is a great difficulty, it is all done quickly and simply (literally - with your own hands). All modern fittings today meet the following rules - quick, easy installation, reliability, excellent regulation.

Today, many furniture fittings factories have appeared, and all of them are in competition for the consumer, and the consumer is none other than a furniture manufacturer. And what does the furniture manufacturer need in the first place? So that the fittings do not cause trouble during its installation and be reliable, so as not to spoil their reputation ... He will not buy another ... Therefore, they do it now not like in Soviet times ...

Fittings are fastened easily and quickly. Speed ​​and quality are the keys to a successful business.

Let's say:

– to install the hinges on the facade, install the facade itself and adjust it, without prior preparation for drilling holes, you need to spend 2-3 minutes;
- to screw the handle, you need to spend 1 minute (drill two holes and tighten the screws);
- mark and drill holes, assemble the cabinet - 10-15 minutes;
- drill a hole for the lamps and insert the lamp - 1-2 minutes;
- cut a hole in the countertop under the sink - 15 minutes (put the sink, draw a contour with a pencil, cut a hole with a jigsaw and fasten it to special snap-in fasteners.);
- saw off the necessary piece of chrome-plated pipe with a hacksaw - 2-3 minutes;
- fix the chrome pipe with flanges - 3-5 minutes.

Well, stuff like that ... All this can be done in any garage, on a balcony, or even on the spot in an apartment.

Let's say, in order to assemble the kitchen that you saw above, you need to spend a maximum of 5-7 days (or sacrifice three days off) for everything - from the delivery of material to the installation of the finished product.

If you would like to know more about furniture production, then study the free course "Furniture with your own hands" on the website www.sdelaimebel.ru.

Rest on fresh air with family or friends is a real holiday for those who live in the city. equipping Vacation home or a cottage, it is necessary not only to think over the interior decoration, but also to make it comfortable and cozy garden plot, because it's so nice to organize a picnic for loved ones or just lie in a sun lounger with your favorite book. Garden furniture in this case is simply irreplaceable. It will make your stay pleasant and comfortable. You can make it with your own hands - it will not require much effort and save money.

Peculiarities

Country furniture carries the same functional load as the items in your apartment. One has only to take into account one important nuance: it must certainly be not only functional, but also practical, since it will be operated on the street. It is this feature that determines the choice of materials for construction - they should not be afraid of water, sun and cold. Let's try to figure out which existing materials best meet these requirements.

Cushioned furniture, which stands in our apartments, is undoubtedly more convenient than solid wooden or metal structures. But to put such products in the open air is impractical. To comfortably sit on a country bench or sofa, just prepare soft bases or pillows that can be easily removed into the house.

Wooden furniture

This is a classic version of furniture for a summer residence, which you can do with your own hands. Wood is a noble and practical option. It is suitable for the manufacture of almost any item. A table, chairs, benches and even garden sofas made of wood, with proper care, will serve you faithfully for many years.

Even a novice craftsman can make a simple bench, but experts in their field can turn an ordinary picnic table into a real work of art.

metal objects

Metal is a very practical and durable material. But when working with it, you will need a set of certain tools and skills. It is possible to connect metal parts to each other both by welding and with the help of bolts and screws. Another option is to give the desired shape by bending individual sections or structural elements.

Wicker furniture

Graceful and refined wicker furniture able to decorate any area. The main difficulty is to learn how to beautifully interlace the rods and create the desired shapes from them. Even if you have never done this, you can start with the simplest elements. The experience gained will allow us to create more complex and ornate models in the future.

Drawings and diagrams

Having decided on the material from which your furniture will be made, you need to think in advance where it will be located and what kind of items you want to make. After all, despite the fact that these are not apartments, you should still determine the optimal size and style for you.

Shop

The simplest and most traditional material here is wood. There are several simple circuits country shops. You can make seats for them both from boards and from solid wood. Focusing on the above schemes, you can easily build a comfortable and practical bench or bench of the required size. After completing the assembly, do not forget to treat the tree with a protective agent.

As for the colors and design, it all depends on your imagination. You can leave clear, concise lines or cut out graceful curves. The natural pattern of wood is an unchanging classic, so you can only cover it with varnish. But if your idea requires it, then you can easily give it any color.

Table

by the most simple option table is considered to be a product on four supports (legs) and with a solid table top. By the way, it can be made both from boards and from an array. A solid cut of a large tree looks very unusual, and the log itself can be sawn both along and across the trunk.

Often, whole stumps can also be seen as a small table. The more impressive its size, the more intricate pattern the “tabletop” itself will have. It is also important to choose the place where the table will be installed. Make sure the surface is even. Otherwise, the tabletop will tilt or the table will wobble.

The base for the country table can also be made of metal - the product will turn out to be truly strong and durable. In addition, metal goes very well with wood and weaving. But a countertop made of glass and other fragile materials is completely unsuitable in this case. Firstly, even small drops of rain will immediately be visible on it, and, secondly, it can break even from a slight mechanical impact.

Deckchair

It cannot be said that a deck chair is the most necessary piece of furniture in the country. But remember a vacation somewhere by the sea and that pleasant feeling when you relaxed, lay down on it and basked in the sun. To create such an atmosphere in your country house is a dream that can easily be made a reality.

The most comfortable option would be a chaise lounge with an adjustable back. With this design, you can find the perfect angle to read a book or just watch the children frolic nearby.

For the manufacture you will need boards, bars and slats. After you assemble the frame, you can start laying the rails. Remember to leave small gaps between them. The height of the sun lounger can be any - it all depends on your preferences. If in doubt, it is better to stick to the standard size of 35 cm.

garden sofa

The main difference between a garden sofa will be that it will not be upholstered with soft foam rubber and fabric. If you are used to gathering at the dacha with a large company, then such a stationary object in the recreation area will be indispensable. It can be both simple and angular, and even U-shaped.

Models made from a large diameter tree trunk look pretty brutal. In this case, you will only need to install the log in the right place and cut out 1/4 of its part in such a way that it turns out to be a seat. You can complement such a masterpiece with armrests with dimensions that emphasize the massiveness and reliability of the design. But repaint in bright colours covering the texture of wood, such a sofa is not recommended, since it is in its natural form that it will look most impressive.

In addition to the chopped garden sofa model, you can also make it from ordinary bars and boards. Recently, the real trend has been the manufacture of furniture from pallets. In fact, you already have "semi-finished products" that you only need to connect and give them an aesthetic appearance by staining.

Rocking chair

It is quite possible to assemble a rocking chair yourself. But if you have never held a planer and a jigsaw in your hands, then we advise you to start with simpler furniture models: an accurate calculation of each detail will be necessary here. In addition, due attention will need to be paid to the connecting elements: they are subject to increased requirements due to the increased load that the chair will have to face during operation.

Design can be absolutely anything. Most often it can be a classic option. wooden chair, in which it is so cozy to sit on a warm evening, wrapping your feet in a warm blanket and drinking hot coffee. For lovers of minimalist, hi-tech and loft styles, options with a metal base and a slatted seat are suitable.

Such a homemade rocking chair will become a real favorite among both the adult generation, who appreciates silence, and the little fidgets, who will be happy to use it for its intended purpose.

How to collect?

In order to facilitate the process of assembling garden furniture as much as possible, we recommend that you stock up on all the necessary tools in advance. Professional jigsaws and planers in stores are quite expensive, so if you plan to assemble one bench and calm down on this, then it is not advisable to purchase them for personal use - ask your neighbors in the country or friends.

Beginners who are planning to master the manufacture of garden furniture should take into account that it is not always possible to do everything perfectly the first time. It is better to stock up on material for the future so that it is possible to replace the damaged part immediately, and not run to the hardware store.

The process of making furniture will be much easier if you find in advance necessary instruction or drawing. When you already gain experience, you can easily improvise and create your own unique projects. But on early stages It is better to stick to proven schemes.

• It is much easier to start making furniture for the garden than to come up with and make an interior item for your own apartment. This is due to the fact that it does not have special aesthetic requirements. Well, who will reproach you for the fact that the shop turned out to be a little uneven ?! And by the way, it's a great experience. And if you already have a chic garden sofa or table, then think about making furniture for the kitchen or bath with your own hands.

• When choosing materials, you should not immediately run to the hardware store. Take a look at what you have available. Perhaps you or your friend have had bars and boards for several years that are a pity to throw away. Stumps and snags that interfere on the site can also become a unique item or part of it. Do you remember if hunting trophies fell on your mezzanines? Horns, skins and other paraphernalia will fit very harmoniously into the interior of your recreation area.
• Pallets (pallets) can be bought for little money at construction sites, in stores or online. Save a significant amount of cutting and assembly time with these versatile designs.