Do-it-yourself home lathe for wood. How to make a wood milling machine with your own hands. Milling machine device: single-spindle designs

20.11.2019

For processing wooden products cylindrical or conical shape will be needed lathe. Experienced home craftsmen prefer not to buy expensive factory equipment, but make their own analogue. Wherein homemade design will have similar technical and operational characteristics.

Functionality of a wood lathe

The design of a homemade wood lathe can be extremely simple. But in order to obtain the desired result, it is necessary to understand in detail its specifics and application features.

To perform a minimum set of operations, the equipment diagram should include a frame, two types of stocks (rear and front), an electric drive, a speed control unit, driven and leading clamps. For precise machining, an emphasis is needed for cutters of various configurations. In order to perform complex work, components must be provided to shift the workpiece relative to the center of the axis of rotation.

General instructions for operating a homemade wood lathe made by yourself.

Workpiece installation. It is carried out using fasteners on the drive spindle and the tailstock quill.
The choice of the optimal number of revolutions.
Processing a wooden workpiece with cutters.
Periodically check the actual dimensions of the parts until the desired shape is achieved.

In practice, this type of equipment requires a large number of experience. One awkward movement is enough to ruin a wooden blank.

To reduce the complexity of manufacturing, you can make a frame with your own hands, using this part from old equipment.

Wood lathe: example #1

The best option manufacturing a reliable design will be the use of an integrated approach to each piece of equipment. First of all, this concerns the frame, since not only stability, but also the operation of other components depends on it.

The base is made of thick-walled steel profile. For reliability, it consists of two supports on which the bed is installed. The elements are connected through grooves. Separately, do-it-yourself support platforms for the front and rear headstock of a wood lathe are made.

List of components for a homemade design:

power unit. The best option is to install an electric motor from washing machine or pump;
front grandma. It is best to purchase a factory spindle with three or four pins. This will allow you to shift the workpiece relative to the axis of rotation;
back grandma. Experts recommend installing a head from a powerful drill;
pulley. It will connect the shafts of the electric motor and the headstock;
support table for incisors. The configuration is chosen from personal considerations. The main condition is the convenience of further operation.

The disadvantage of this design is the complexity of changing the number of revolutions. To do this, you need to make additional pulleys of various diameters with your own hands. As an alternative, consider installing finished construction a belt drive that adapts to a specific model of a do-it-yourself homemade wood lathe.

To work on machines of this type, it is recommended to purchase ready-made cutters. If you have the opportunity and the appropriate equipment, you can do it yourself. But for this, workpieces made of special tool steel should be used.

The choice of the optimal shaft speed depends on the size of the workpiece and the type of wood. For the calculation, it is recommended to use the standard dependency graphs of these parameters. The rotation speed can vary from 800 to 3000 rpm.

Wood lathe from a drill: example No. 2

An alternative is to manufacture using a drill. This will optimal way make a trial design with a little practice of working with your own hands.

It should be noted that such an installation is designed for processing small products. The frame can be made from wooden beams. The function of the reverse headstock can be performed by a structure consisting of a support bearing and a shaft mounted on it. To fix the workpiece, you will need the appropriate nozzle for the drill.

Disadvantages:

low degree of reliability;
inability to process large workpieces;
there is a high probability of a milling error.

But this scheme can be used as the basis for making more advanced wood lathes with your own hands. The main thing is to determine the required technical and operational qualities.

In the process of designing and manufacturing turning equipment, the master will need the following bench tools:

manual electric drill with a set of drills;
files of various sizes and grain sizes;
angle grinder - grinder with a set of cutting and grinding discs;
electric welding unit and electrodes 3 mm and 2 mm.

In the process of designing and assembling the machine, you will need to purchase the following building materials:

metal profile - channel;
thick-walled metal corner;
two pipes of such a diameter that the smaller pipe goes inside the larger one;
steel strips 40 mm and 20 mm wide;
fasteners;
drive belt.

Pulleys provide rotation speeds of 800, 2000 and 3000 rpm

Before you design and assemble a wood lathe with your own hands, you should watch a video on the manufacture of such equipment. Such a video is easy to find on specialized sites dedicated to the manufacture of woodworking equipment.

The use of an electric grinder for the manufacture of the headstock is suitable in all respects - the axis of rotation is high, in addition to this, the unit already has 4 hard alloy washers. Two washers are used to install replaceable discs of different diameters on the shaft of an electric grinder, which are designed to change the rotation speed. On the other side, a special faceplate is made from one of the washers for fixing the blank.

To drive the shaft, pulleys of various diameters are used, providing a rotation speed of 800, 2000 and 3000 rpm. If possible, you can make one combined pulley with different diameter seats for the drive belt.

Manufacture of the bed, tailstock and stop

From an old hand-held electric drill, a cartridge and the front of the body are taken, from which the tailstock is made. When using a part from a hand-held electric drill as a tailstock, you need to choose a drill with a metal case.

To fix the unit, a stand is made, fixed on the machine bed, so that it is possible to move the unit along the longitudinal axis of the machine. The design of the cartridge allows you to exert significant longitudinal loads on it, which is a significant advantage when using it in the design of the device.

The bed is made from pieces of a channel. All elements of the frame are interconnected by using a welding machine. To install an electric grinder that acts as a headstock, a platform made of thick plywood is fixed on the bed.

To fix the lathe, a stand is made

The electric drive of the machine is installed on a special plate fixed on the table, on which the lathe bed is installed. The plate is made in such a way that it can be moved along the direction of the belt. This is necessary to adjust the speed of rotation of the headstock shaft.

A caliper is fixed on the bed with the possibility of its smooth movement along and across the bed. It is made from two pipes of different diameters. A wing nut is used to fix this assembly. A stop bar is fixed on the support, on which cutters for a wood lathe are located in the process of its operation.

Working tools - cutters for working on a wood turning unit can be made with your own hands, using tool steel plates for this purpose or purchased ready-made in a specialized store. The cost of a set of cutters for working on a lathe ranges from 300 rubles to several thousand rubles. The cost of the set depends on the quality of the incisors and their number in the set.

The cost of a set of cutters for working on a lathe ranges from 300 rubles to several thousand rubles.

Basic rules for the operation of turning equipment

After making a wood lathe with your own hands, it is recommended to watch a video on how to work safely and correctly on such equipment. This will allow you to get acquainted not only with the rules for working on this type of equipment, but also to study the safety rules for operating the turning unit.

The first machine that every artisan feels the need for is a desktop drilling machine, or simply a drill. But upon purchasing it or making it with your own hands, it soon turns out that you need to sharpen something, and a lathe costs an order of magnitude more expensive. Great is the temptation to make a universal lathe like the one in fig. below:

Before the ingenuity, skill and accuracy of such masters, it remains only to take off your hat. Yes, wood can also be turned on a metal lathe; many of these bench lathes are equipped with inserts in the spindle chuck to hold the wood workpiece. But - alas! - a home-made universal lathe will not hold accuracy on metal for a long time.

The point is not only that the cutting force of metal is many times greater than that of wood. The very physics of metal cutting is completely different. In order not to go into the basics, even a cursory superficial review of which will require an exorbitant amount of space, let's take it and compare it: have you seen a metal chisel sharp as a chisel or a piece of iron planer? And what happens if you cut a tree with a chisel? The drill can still cope with both materials: there the cutting force is symmetrically concentrated on the working body itself. But as far as the point of metal is concerned, the requirements for the machine tool, the requirements for the machine tool for it, turn out to be such that machine tool building became a separate branch long before the industrial era. The best machine-building plant does not make machine tools for itself - it is not up to it. However, it is quite possible to assemble a wood lathe with your own hands, and in such a way that it will keep the maximum machining accuracy of +/-0.5 mm achievable on wood for many years, if not decades. You still can’t do without 2-3 turning operations for metal (see below), but in this case they can be performed to order by a turner of 2-3 categories on a regular, not increased accuracy, a machine tool, even a restored DIP. And, of course, you will need to buy a set of cutters for processing wood on a lathe, see Fig. Everything else will not require mandatory additional costs.

History and evolution

Further in the text, you will come across technical solutions that are effective, but little known to amateur craftsmen, because. in industry, for one reason or another, they are not used or are used to a limited extent. However, they can simplify and facilitate the manufacture of a home-made lathe for woodworking so much that in some cases it will be possible to limit oneself to a hand drill from a power tool. The machine tool industry of the millennium is developing under the sign of solving the problem: how to make machine parts with an accuracy of, say, 0.2 of the same units on a machine tool with an accuracy of, for example, 1 conventional unit of length? Etc. In order to understand how technology came to such a life, it will be useful to turn briefly to history.

The progenitor of all machines for processing materials by rotation is a device with which Neolithic people made fire and drilled horn, bone, stone, pos. 1 in pic; in the latter cases, an abrasive of wet quartz sand was sprinkled under a drill made of wood or bone. The primitive Celts, on the same principle, came up with a foot-operated lathe, pos. 2; the centers were made of sharpened burnt stakes of hard wood. In England, this unit is still in use among furniture makers. The forest is not cut down there by quarters. Having bought a couple of timbers for felling, the master then takes out ready-made legs, balusters, etc. in armfuls to the track. In a craft of this type, the machine lived approx. until the beginning of the 18th century, pos. 3, although the workpiece in it rotates back and forth and the master has to be additionally distracted to turn the cutter over.

AT Ancient Egypt already in the era of the Middle Kingdom, a lathe with a beam drive was well known, pos. 4. "Motor" was, of course, a slave. In the Russian village community (in the world), with its strong traditions of mutual assistance and mutual assistance, the beam lathe survived in the outback until ... the 80s of the last century! Mass individual wooden construction was in no way included in the plans of the five-year plans, but the Soviet leadership in the provinces turned a blind eye to unauthorized logging on a limited scale for their own needs or to the unauthorized purchase of wild logs from timber industry enterprises for the universal Soviet currency with a strength of 40 vol. and half a litre.

For fine and / or fine work, a foot loom with twine and bow was not suitable: there are always inhomogeneities in the tree, and the workpiece itself was the flywheel - the damper of torsional vibrations. Radical improvements to the lathe were introduced by master Theodore in Ancient Greece approx. in 400 BC uh, pos. 6. He supplemented the foot drive, firstly, with a crank - now the workpiece rotated in one direction. Secondly, I made the centers rotating and provided one of them with a grip to hold the workpiece. Thirdly, he introduced a heavy flywheel into the kinematic scheme. Separate machines of this design were in operation on industrial enterprises before the start of the electrification of industry, pos. 7 - in the then complete absence of social guarantees, the labor of an unskilled helper was cheaper than the cost of maintaining a steam engine.

The electrified wood lathe (item 8 in the previous figure) has not changed much since the end of the 19th century (see also the figure below):

a - motor rotor and other massive drive parts do not require the use of a separate flywheel;
b - in the clamping chuck, you can put various tips for various kinds of workpieces (see below) or a drill;
c - a handpiece with a rotary shelf-stop for the cutter, mounted on a movable carriage, makes it possible to carry out a wide variety of work operations;
d - tailstock with a rotating center allows you to bring the accuracy of processing to the maximum possible on a tree;
e - the screw for feeding the tailstock quill (see below) makes it possible to carry out complex processing of the workpiece into a part in one setting. The tree in the course of processing gives in under pressure of the holder and the center. If the tailstock is rigidly fixed, the workpiece becomes loose during processing. The machine has to be stopped and the blanks reinstalled, which in no way contributes to the quality of work.

What if there is no motor?

A non-volatile wood lathe may still come in handy these days; say, in a country house or an unequipped construction site. The muscular strength of a normally developed person is sufficient for turning workpieces from ordinary timber with a diameter of approx. up to 150 mm. In such a case, 2 options are possible (see the following figure): a good old machine with a foot drive (the dimensions of its most important unit - the crank are given at the top right); more about it, see below, and processing on goats with manual drive towline (lower right in the figure). Lesina in girth cannot be rounded in this way, but it is possible to machine the supporting pillars of the porch, gazebo or canopy over the barbecue.

Make or buy?

The first question that needs to be addressed is: since certain obligatory costs (see below) are inevitable, is it possible to purchase a woodworking machine without getting into a loan and without cutting the budget? There are, and very good ones.

If you come across an old UBDN-1 at a reasonable price (on the left in the figure) or its modern counterparts (in the center), do not yawn! There is no need to re-equip anything at home: a motor up to 350 W with double insulation of the windings. The machine is plugged into a regular socket, grounding is not required. And you get in one product:

circular saw;
Electronadzhak for tool sharpening, etc.;
planer;
Disc grinder;
Horizontal drilling machine;
Lathe for woodworking.

Another option, most likely cheaper, but only for horizontal drilling and turning - a drill frame that turns it into a lathe, on the right in fig. The beds of drills for a drill are already being sold almost on the streets peddling, but far from everyone knows about turning. Meanwhile, an electric drill as a machine drive for wood has serious advantages (see below), and a lathe with it will be no worse than a branded one. But much cheaper.

Note: for starters, it’s better to whip up a simple lathe and work on it a little. Wood turning skills are easy to develop, and how to quickly make a simple wood lathe, see the video:

Video: simple homemade lathe

Main material

The next question is what to make a homemade lathe from? The answer seems to be obvious: from metal, after all, there cannot be a machine weaker than a workpiece, can it? And how did primitive people drill stone with wood? How did the ancient Egyptians build pyramids with wood and copper (there was no bronze then)? And see above about the main issue of machine tool building.

A lathe for woodworking can be made of metal (pos. 1 in the figure), metal-wood, pos. 2, from improvised materials with minimal use of metal, pos. 3 and even ... without a frame, pos. 4. So, on any of them, a fairly experienced and accurate master can long time work regularly with maximum precision for the tree. Wood is not only a noble, but also a grateful material.

What tree?

Yes, but which tree to take? Best of all - oak without defects, seasoned, having undergone complete natural shrinkage and shrinkage. Lathes made of quality oak 100 or more years old still work today. And as for home-made work - the frame and headstock of an oak (in the literal sense) machine are made very simply, see below.

If there is no oak lumber of suitable quality, then you can get by with ordinary drill pine, but the bed will have to be made according to the frame-and-beam power scheme. In Anglo-Saxon countries, where oaks have long been registered individually, such home lathes are very common. Drawings of an "English" wood lathe with a frame made of ordinary timber are given in fig; dimensions in inches. This is actually an ancient foot machine with a crank, adapted for an electric drive. To return it to a non-volatile form, it is enough to extend the middle rack of the bed to the bottom, put it on the paw and mount the pedal with the connecting rod, crank and flywheel, see above.

Drive unit

Working with a muscle motor is, of course, an amateur: now electricity is available almost everywhere. In extreme cases, you can also be powered from the car battery through a voltage converter. If you meet somewhere in other articles on this topic something like: pull a 3-phase cable towards you, do protective earth, buy a 3-5 kW motor, do not believe the elephant that he is a buffalo. To round a wood of medium "clumsiness" up to a diameter of 300 mm, a machine drive power of 1-1.5 kW is sufficient; for turning a 200 mm log into a figured support post - 350 W.

Much more important is the spindle speed. The frequency of its rotation should not exceed 600-700 rpm, otherwise the probability of “biting” the cutter and the occurrence of a traumatic situation increases sharply. It is best to limit yourself to speeds set within (60-70) - (300-400) 1 / min. Then the following is possible. drive options:

Double insulated asynchronous motor with capacitor start + mechanical transmission.
Engine of the same type 2-4 speed.
Electric drill drive.

just a motor

It is not easy, because it is impossible to regulate the rotation speed of an asynchronous electric motor by changing the supply voltage: the slip of the rotor grows like an avalanche and, accordingly. torque drops. Making a powerful frequency converter is difficult and expensive. It remains only 2-3 speed manual transmission. Belt or chain - they dampen jerks due to inhomogeneities of the workpiece, and gear, on the contrary, enhances them. Plus - a heavy rotor, heavy pulleys, an elastic belt. The inertia of the torsion drive turns out to be such that it is possible to sharpen completely knotty blocks of a shape on a cut that has nothing in common with a circle. Minus - you need to order or look for turned pulleys.

washing machine motor

The speed of rotation of an asynchronous electric motor can be changed in steps by switching the windings. Motors of this type are installed in some models of washing machines (only in washing machines with a direct drum drive) and in floor fans with airflow switching. The rotation speeds in both cases are ideal for woodturning. Fan motor power approx. 40-70 W, which is enough for a mini-machine (see below). The motor power from the washing machine is 300-400 W - quite enough.

Drawings of a wood lathe with a motor from a washing machine are shown in Fig.:

A motor from a washing machine with a direct drum drive as a drive for a woodworking lathe has a great advantage: its bearing assemblies are designed for a large unbalanced load, so it will be possible to sharpen the most viscous and serrated wood. But with knots, the situation is worse: the flywheel is only the rotor of the motor, and the cutter will twitch on them.

Note: how to make a wood lathe with a motor from a washing machine, see video:

Video: lathe with a washing machine engine

From a drill

From the point of view of an ordinary home master, both machines have a big drawback: you need to either put a grip on the headstock only for wood, or order an adapter for the motor shaft with a Morse taper for a clamping cam chuck. Finding the sizes of typical Morse cones on the Internet is not difficult; the dimensions of the cone for a conventional drill chuck No. 1, see fig. on right. But - you need to sharpen the cone with an accuracy of no worse than +/-0.025 mm. That is, you need a metal lathe with increased accuracy of 0.02 mm. A master of sufficient qualification who owns such equipment may simply not be found within reach.

If the drive of the machine is an electric drill, the problems of precision processing disappear: the cartridge can be removed with a home-made puller, and a typical purchased holder for a wooden workpiece can be placed on the cone. Or just clamp the same chuck, but cheaper with a cylindrical shank. Or even make a workpiece holder yourself, (see below).

The design of such a critical unit as the headstock in a lathe from a drill is also extremely simplified: it turns into a simple clamp. Two options for drawings of a clamp for a drill for a lathe are given in fig:

Headstocks - clamps for a wood lathe from a drill

Left metal; on the right - from solid small-layer wood. Wooden is better: it dampens vibrations well and does not spoil the collar of the drill. Its manufacture has some peculiarities:

Threaded stud for clamping lamb 1 needs M10-M12;
A blind hole for the stud is first drilled 1-1.5 m narrower so that it enters it with a turn along the thread;
The upper part of the hole is drilled to the full diameter;
The pin is screwed in until it stops;
The workpiece is laid flat and a through hole is drilled in place for the lock screw 2 M4-M6;
Fix the stud with a locking screw;
Collect the knot finally.

An electric drill as a machine drive has only one drawback: a commutator motor with a thyristor speed controller. At a low speed, the torque on the shaft drops noticeably, this is already felt when drilling. Therefore, on a machine from a drill with a power of 280-350 W, it is possible to sharpen wooden blanks with a diameter of approx. up to 150 mm. However, the simplification of the manufacturing technology of a woodworking lathe driven by a drill is so thorough that drill machines are made in a wide variety of versions, see a selection of videos:

From improvised materials without a bed:

Video: wood lathe quickly

With plywood frame:

Video: plywood lathe with a drill engine

Regular design:

Video: universal wood lathe

Improved with extended functionality:

Video: improved wood lathe from a drill

bed

The metal and oak bed of a wood lathe have their own advantages and disadvantages. But by combining wooden power (bearing) elements with reinforced metal fasteners, it is possible to get a frame that is made "on the knee" hand tool+ electric drill and will last at least 20-30 years.

The design of the combined frame of a wood lathe is shown in the figure:

The main structural material is a standard oak beam 100x100 3 m long. The overall length of the frame is 1.2 m. The drawing is to scale, the missing dimensions can be removed and recalculated in mm from it. If there is more good oak, the length of the bed can be increased to 1.5-2 m. Both headstocks are of the same design and are designed for home-made rotation units, see below. The ridges at the bottom of the pasterns eliminate the skew of the centers. The whole structure can be made with hand carpentry tools and an electric drill.

Note: a mini-lathe for wood was made according to a fundamentally the same power circuit, see next. rice. It will fit a motor from a 2-3 speed floor fan, see above, with a 1: 1 gear.

If all the same metal

The totality of the qualities of an oak bed is quite enough for turning wood. The use of metal for this purpose in mass production is dictated by economic considerations: it is simply that the cost of a metal product intended for continuous 3-shift operation turns out to be much less than a wooden one. 1 cu. m of aged oak is much more expensive than a centner of conventional structural steel.

Amateur craftsmen, not knowing about it, often “for the sake of strength” make the beds of lathes for wood from a channel. But it turns out rough even for “wooden” accuracy (on the left in the figure), and trimming the working surfaces of channels at home is not realistic. In addition, welding can lead the entire structure with a “propeller”, which is completely unrealistic to fix. Therefore, it is better to assemble the frame from the channel with bolts (on the right in the figure).

Much more reliable in this regard is the frame of twin pipes (on the left in the next figure): when welding, it leads less, you can correct the skew by pulling the frame with bolts to the base, and it is possible to achieve a divergence of the centers of handicraft headstocks of 0.2 mm or less . Drawings of a welded tubular bed of a lathe for wood from a drill are also shown in fig.

grandmother

It would seem that it is impossible to make the headstock of a lathe, and the back one with a rotating center, without precision turning work. No, it is possible - using the phenomenon of oil hydrodynamic cushion (OHD). This, by the way, is one of the ways to answer the question: how to make parts for a machine with an accuracy of 0.2 on a machine with an accuracy of 1. In mechanical engineering, the GDP is rarely used, because. for its formation and stabilization, the machine with the workpiece fixed in it must idle for 2-5 minutes. If a shift lesson is only 10 parts, then every shift loss of working time will be up to an hour or half an hour, which in mass production "rolls over". But in general, in the GDP technique, it is not uncommon. For example, warming up the internal combustion engine of your car is necessary incl. and in order to form a GDP between the connecting rod clamps and the crankshaft journals, otherwise the motor resource is sharply reduced.

What is GDP

The principle of operation of the GDP is shown in Fig.:

Any grease is suitable for it: grease, grease, cyatim, fiol. But best of all - shahtol, special lubricant for mining machines and mechanisms. Due to the difficult working conditions, they, like the Kalashnikov assault rifle, are made with large gaps between the rubbing parts, but they are not required to fire quickly. Shaftol is specially designed for relatively slow moving joints of rotation and is excellent for wood lathe headstocks using HDF.

Headstock

The device of a typical headstock of a lathe for woodworking is given on the left in fig. There are so many metal lathes in it for an amateur, and the shaft journals and bearing cap sockets need to be sharpened with the same accuracy as the Morse taper.

For a home-made headstock using the GDP, you will need, in addition to purchased threaded parts: M12-M20 studs for the shaft, nuts and washers for them, another piece of bronze (not brass!) Foil 0.2-0.35 mm thick and, on the clip, steel tube with walls of sufficient thickness (see right in the figure). The entire assembly is made next. way:

The tube on the clip is cut exactly to the size of the thickness of the wooden body of the headstock, and pressed into it;
The body with the clip is laid flat, laid flat and the tube is drilled along the diameter of the threaded shaft;
The inner corners of the opening of the clip are smoothed with manual scraping - a reamer - as is done when installing air conditioners;
A rectangle is cut out of bronze foil with a height along the thickness of the headstock body and a width of 3 shaft diameters (for M12 36 mm, for M16 48 mm), its corners are slightly cut at 45 degrees. In 3 diameters, because the bronze insert should slightly converge at the edges, and π = 3.1415926 ...
6-8 bronze washers are cut out of the same foil with a ballerina compass with two needles;
The washers are clamped in turn with their palms between plywood with a small skin glued on them and, turning their hands back and forth, remove the burrs;
The shaft is wrapped in the same skin and, squeezing it with your hand, the shaft is pulled several times with a twist in order to slightly remove the sharp edges of the thread;
Wrap the shaft with foil and try to insert it dry into the holder. If necessary, repeat operation 7. It is necessary that the shaft in the foil wrapper enters tightly and is difficult to turn by hand in the holder;
They take out the shaft, remove the foil and screw one of the nuts onto it to the place;
Lubricate the shaft threads liberally with grease;
The same lubricant lubricates the clip inside;
On one side, ordinary steel and 3-4 bronze washers are applied, each generously lubricating with the same lubricant;
Again wrap the shaft with foil and insert it into the holder;
Washers are applied in reverse order on the other side, also lubricating abundantly;
They screw and tighten the other nut so tightly that the shaft can barely be turned by hand;
The nuts are temporarily fixed with locknuts;
Lay the workpiece flat and drill through holes for cotter pins;
Spinning regular nuts. Best off cuts of bicycle spokes, they have very high shear strength;
They assemble the headstock, put its pulley in place;
They twist the pulley with their hands until it starts to rotate tightly, but without jamming;
Assemble the drive of the machine and run it at idle at the minimum spindle speed (in the slowest gear) until the motor picks up full speed. If necessary, push the pulley by hand;
Repeat step 21 at maximum spindle speed (in the fastest gear);
The gripper of the workpiece is put in place - the assembly is ready for work.

If you don’t trust any very smart physics there (although nodes with GFS keep accuracy no worse than analogues on rolling friction), then in fig. - drawings of a bearing assembly equally suitable for home-made circular saw and wood lathe. In the latter case, a flat sole with side supports is not needed - the round body is simply inserted into the headstock body and fixed with a screw. Instead of a saw blade, they put either a faceplate or an adapter with a cone for a chuck (det. 6).

tailstock

The designs of the rotating centers of lathes for metal (at the top in the figure on the right) and for wood (in the same place below) are not fundamentally different, only the “wooden” one is designed for many times lower loads. But in work, especially at home, there is a significant difference: axial holes in turned wooden parts are drilled extremely rarely, because. their strength is greatly reduced by this - wood, unlike metal, cracks easily. That is, by abandoning the quills for interchangeable working bodies, it is possible to simplify the design of the tailstock to suitability for manufacturing “on the knee” with a small share of simple custom-made turning work.

A typical design of the tailstock of a wood lathe is shown in fig. below. On the right there is an insert with a rotating center in a wooden tailstock made from a loop garage door. It also uses the GDP, and the center shank is fitted to the cage in the same way as the headstock shaft, but simpler and lighter: the gap between the pin and the socket of the garage hinge is approx. 0.5 mm and, as a rule, the assembly turns out to be suitable for work without fitting and grinding.

Some difficulties are caused only by fixing the center from the reverse longitudinal stroke. It is unrealistic to cut a trapezoidal thread and make a locking cracker or an eccentric for it at home, but the usual metric thread the locking screw will quickly collapse. The output is a floating aluminum sleeve. Locksmiths are familiar with this method: if you need to clamp a threaded part in a vice, they wrap it in thin aluminum or put it between aluminum spacers - absolutely nothing happens to the thread.

handcuff

The simplest tool holder for a cutter is a piece of board with a wooden boss nailed / screwed to it. But this is not suitable for fine work: during the point of shaped parts, you need to turn the shelf (stop) of the cutter, without loosening the fastening of the handpiece itself and without shifting it. Therefore, the handpiece must be made of metal with a swivel stop, however, custom turning and milling work is not required for this; see drawings in fig. on right.

Holder

So we got to the last question: how to securely fix the workpiece in the headstock of a woodworking lathe? Considering that the tree is easily torn, crushed, pricked, and the blocks on the lathe sometimes come in forms that are simply amazing.

The answer to this question is not as terrible as the devil is painted. Universal holder - trident, pos. 1 in fig. It is these that are supplied with household woodworking machines, for example. mentioned UBDN-1. The shank is either smooth for a chuck or threaded for mounting on a shaft. The trident holder securely holds workpieces up to 100-120 mm in diameter, and round ones up to 200 mm. There is only one drawback: it is very difficult to make a good trident for a wood lathe.

Screw chuck for small clean work (for example, turning wooden glasses), pos. 2, it is generally impossible to do without special equipment, but it is successfully replaced by a clamping chuck, pos. 3. If you need to process, on the contrary, a large workpiece with an irregular configuration in the cut, use a faceplate, pos. 4.

A faceplate for turning wood can also be made independently from bakelized plywood with a thickness of 12-16 mm. In this case, the washer is made 2-layer: the same one made of sheet steel 1-1.5 mm thick is attached to the plywood circle on the back side. Holes for spikes in a plywood circle are drilled through, and instead of turned spikes, then you can put cut-off nail tips. A glass for installing a faceplate under a nut on a threaded shaft shank can also be made from plywood rings and a steel bottom.

Finally, on the basis of a 3-4 layer faceplate, you can make a homemade cam chuck for wood, pos. 5. Are the cams sure not to converge? So the accuracy of the workpiece is even worse. But you can sharpen bowls, saucers, etc. from cuts of a valuable tree. products that do not leave traces of processing.

Note: the variety of wood blank holders is not limited to those described. For example, see the video on how to make a mini lathe with a hole holder for the smallest woodwork:

Video: mini wood lathe

Finally

Making a machine and working on it are different things not only in industry. Therefore, in the end, see a selection of videos on how to sharpen a tree on a machine and make a copy machine for wood for turning balusters from a grinder.

The easiest do-it-yourself homemade wood lathe.

I had to cut out a few wooden parts, I decided to make a homemade lathe from improvised materials that were in the garage. The manufacturing process of the machine is shown in the photo.

I used the engine from the circulation pump.

The bed was made of plywood 22 mm thick, the length of the bed allows you to place a part up to a meter long on the machine.

I drilled holes for mounting the engine, cut out guides for the tailstock with a jigsaw.

The tailstock was made from a U-shaped profile. The headstock, in this case the motor shaft, must be at the same height and on the same axis as the tailstock. Welded the headstock mount, installed the bearing.

I installed a wooden plug in the bearing, put a washer on a pointed bolt. The bolt was inserted into the hole in the cork, put on another washer, screwed the nut onto the bolt and locked it.

Then I installed the tailstock in the guides and secured it with wing bolts.

handy made out wooden block. I cut cross cuts for attaching the handrest. The lathe chuck was made from the body of a bronze air vent. Sawed out, in front of the air vent "crown". The lathe chuck was fixed on the motor shaft.

To perform a certain type of work with wood, some improvised tools may not be enough. Therefore, there is often a need to have a lathe for these purposes. Many are puzzled over where to buy such equipment, and the casket just opens. Why buy handmade when you can make your own?

home lathe, which is made by hand, will allow you to significantly save on the purchase of such equipment in the specialized equipment market. You can, of course, purchase old models that are on conservation, but the problem is that:

Plants with such models must first be found.
It is not a fact that the equipment was not damaged during conservation, because it stood idle for 10, 15, and maybe all 25 years.

So it turns out that making equipment with your own hands will allow you, even if you make some efforts, but you will definitely get exactly what you need. for home workshop. By technical indicators equipment made personally will not be inferior to the unit created by the factory. How to do equipment, now consider.

Before starting work on the creation of equipment, you should study its structure. Without any particles or elements, the equipment will not function properly or be dangerous to use. There are certain structural elements that any lathe manufactured 25 years ago or today on high-precision equipment includes.

The main structural elements of such a unit are

If something from this list is missing, the user simply will not be able to work, ensure safety and achieve maximum efficiency of turning equipment.

Also, depending on the complexity of the operations performed with the equipment, in the future, when manufacturing with your own hands, you should take care that it is possible to shift the workpiece relative to the center of the axis of rotation. This will add to the operator the ability to perform even complex work related to wood processing.

Collecting from improvised means machine, special attention should be paid to the electric drive of the future machine, made by hand. As a rule, a three-phase electric motor is used to ensure operation. Based on this, it is imperative to bring a 380 V line to the workshop where it is planned to install turning equipment.

Engine Specifications

also exist, and they must be observed. The main thing is that the unit speed should not exceed 1,500 rpm. You need to connect the device to the power source according to the "Star" or "Triangle" scheme.

Next, you need to understand the size of the machine itself

Most often, production equipment manufactured by the manufacturer had the following indicators:

Photo: do-it-yourself machine for wood.

Length - 80 cm;
Width - 40 cm;
Height - 35 cm.

These dimensions will allow you to work with blanks of wood with a diameter of 25 cm and a length of up to 20 cm. At the same time, you will not need to use the tailstock for improved fixation. It will be installed on a special faceplate, and thanks to the use of the tailstock, the operator gets the opportunity to increase the length of the workpiece by 2 times.

How to make a wood lathe yourself

Now let's figure out what is useful for creating turning equipment with your own hands.

Tip: You can use an old kitchen knife sharpening tool as a drive. The main thing is that the model is designed for the use of 2 grindstones.

Such a device is quite suitable as a headstock equipment. And for the back, you can always use some elements of a powerful electric drill that you don’t need.

To make the base strong, it is best to use a thick-walled metal profile as a bed. Before starting work, you should draw up the most accurate drawing of the equipment. It is better to spend a little more time working with paper and diagrams, rather than later, due to a mistake, spend money on finding new components or consumables.

Drawing homemade machine on wood.

When drawings with pictures ready, you can get to work. But you can't do without the following equipment:

Manual electric drill and drills of various diameters.
Files with a working coating of different grain sizes.
Bulgarian and removable discs for grinding and cutting.
A small welding machine - electric designed to work with diodes "two" and "three".

As for borers, you will need:

Channel;
Metal corner with thick walls;
2 pipes with different diameters so that one can pass the other through itself;
Steel strips - 2 and 4 cm;
Nuts, screws, bolts and other fasteners;
Belt for throwing on the drive.

Advice: before how to assemble machine, for a complete picture of what is happening, watch the video below.

Visual information is easier to perceive, so viewing will help you save yourself from a lot of problems that may be associated with an incomplete understanding of the rules of installation, sequence, etc.

The drive for sharpening knives is perfect as an electric drive for your machine. The fact is that there are 4 durable washers that are made of hard metal alloys. 2 of them will give you the opportunity to change the components of the electric whetstone using discs of different diameters. Thanks to this, the user will be able to change the speed of the wood blank.

Pulleys are used to make the shaft move. They have different diameters to get the following rotation speed:

800 rpm;
2,000 rpm;
3,000 rpm

This will allow you to quickly and effortlessly throw the belt on one of them to change the speed of rotation of the workpiece in the clamps of the machine.

Let's get to work - we make a bed, a tailstock and an assistant

The tailstock will be made from a chuck and headstock taken from the body of an old electric drill. To ensure that the equipment lasts a long time and does not shatter a year after operation, it is best to use a drill with a metal case.

To your homemade the machine stood normally, did not stagger and thus did not create problems in work, special attention should be paid charmingly to the creation of the rack. It is installed on the machine bed, so that the operator later has the opportunity to move the equipment units along the axis longitudinally. The cartridge will make it possible to carry out significant longitudinal loads. And this has a positive effect on the use of this element in general design unit.

To make a bed with your own hands, you just need a channel. After that, the elements of the frame should be attached to each other. We do this with welding machine. To put the headstock (electric machine for sharpening knives), you need to immediately put a sheet of thick plywood as a base.

Drive unit

It also needs to be mounted on a special plate. It will be installed on the table, where the protege of the equipment will be placed. It must be done taking into account the movement of the operator while working on the machine. Thus, the user will be able to adjust the speed of the shaft, which is located on the headstock.

Bed, tailstock.

Don't forget to put a caliper

This device will serve to move evenly along and across your lathe bed. This is where two pipes with different diameters are needed to build it at home. It will be placed on the handpiece, which serves as an emphasis for the incisors.

When everything is ready, do not forget to go to the store building materials and lighting fixtures to buy a small sheet for myself transparent plastic and a lamp. They come in handy to protect you from chips and chips that can fly out during turning and sharpening equipment. And the lamp will help you to cope with the work easier.

Advice: choose a lamp with a movable rod so that you can direct the light flux to a poorly lit area.

It remains only to buy working tools. It is better to buy immediately in a set, but it will cost the owner of a home-made lathe made by oneself in the region from 300 to 2,000 rubles.

Important! Do not forget to ground the installation with a wire with a solidly grounded neutral.

How to use the equipment correctly

Once you have completed the production of your machine, you should test it with a test run. If everything is fine, it is recommended to study the basic rules for working with the equipment. Attached below is a detailed video and a brief instruction on how to behave correctly with the machine.

The list of mandatory requirements for working on the machine includes:

Choose the right workpiece so that it does not have knots, cracks and other defects.
Securely fix the workpiece before work.
Check grounding before starting the equipment.
Always use a protective screen and a change of overalls.
Check the tool before use - it is forbidden to use a tool with loose handles or without them at all.
Any wood can be used as a blank, the main thing is that the humidity is no more than 20%.

These are the basic rules for working with a lathe, which were taught at school in labor lessons. It is also recommended to conduct a semi-annual inspection of the equipment for condition and change the oil every year, diagnose the engine and other working elements in order to identify defects.

Important! Pay special attention to each element, it is better to eliminate the noticed marriages or defects in the manufacturing process or operation immediately. Also save blueprints.

All the more responsibly treat the choice of bed. It must be strong and reliable, because it is, one might say, the basis of your machine. The machine is screwed onto a powerful wooden or iron table. It is necessary to level the equipment so that it does not wobble on the floor.

An example of using a homemade machine from a drill.

Well, everyone! Now you can make something on such a do-it-yourself lathe, as indicated on a photo. Good luck and endless inspiration for your work!