Split system installation instructions. Do-it-yourself split system installation. Preparation of communication channels

18.10.2019

Installing a split system (or, simply put, an air conditioner) is a laborious procedure, but not as complicated as you might think. In principle, even someone who has never done anything like this before can cope with such a task. This will require some theoretical knowledge that you can learn from this article, patience and desire. Let's talk about how to install an air conditioner with your own hands.

Some general information

Our main goal is to install the air conditioner without damaging it. But, in addition, it is necessary to properly install both the indoor and outdoor units. Otherwise, the performance will be much lower, if the device will function at all.

To get started, you will need a special tool: a puncher and a vacuum pump, a manometric pump, a building level. As for consumables, the installation of a split system is carried out with a standard kit, which should come with the kit. This is a heater, a drainage hose, dowels, brackets, etc. If this is not there, then you need to buy it, and only after that start installing the air conditioner.

Mounting the panel of the indoor unit

In this case, you must follow one simple rule that applies to all air conditioners, regardless of brand and manufacturer. It consists in the fact that at least 10 centimeters must be retreated from the ceiling. If this rule is not observed, then the air conditioner will constantly become clogged with dust. In addition, degraded air intake will contribute to a decrease in performance, and this may affect the longevity of the device as a whole.

It is also necessary to retreat a little from the corner of the wall. The distance from the panel to the curtain must be at least 10 cm. This is necessary so that the curtain does not sway during the operation of the air conditioner. Further, with the help of dowels and a level, the panel is fixed. It must be placed strictly horizontally. This is necessary so that there is no leakage of condensate. Then we temporarily hang the indoor unit.

Cable channel installation

Cable laying must be carried out with at least a slight slope. This is done to prevent condensation. Be sure to take this into account when installing. First you need to drill a hole with a minimum diameter of 55 millimeters. Do not forget about the slope, which will prevent the appearance of an air lock in the drain hose. After the through hole is made, we stretch the box, cut the ends, and we customize the whole thing.

The next step is to cut the track. It is extremely important to understand here that the use of a conventional hacksaw is simply unacceptable. This is due to the fact that small chips, dirt, etc., will remain in the copper tube. If all this gets into the compressor, it will soon fail. Therefore, use special pipe cutters, which today can be found in any specialty store or rented from a neighbor. Despite the fact that the climatic equipment is different, the installation of air conditioners is approximately the same. Split systems at present a large number of, but the principle of operation is the same, and installation is carried out according to general rules.

Laying the track in the box and mounting the brackets

On the this stage you choose the sequence of actions. You can first hang the block on the panel, and only then start laying the track in the box. You can, and vice versa, lay the track, then attach the block. The main requirement is not to bend the copper tubes. If this happens, the compressor will soon break down.

Next, you need to get insurance and go outside, since the next stage is performed there. Whether it is the installation of a multi-split system or the most common one, it is necessary to fix the brackets on the wall. They should be located in the same horizontal plane, so use It is advisable that two people do the work, since outdoor unit has an impressive weight. After fixing the brackets, the external unit is put on them and additionally fixed with bolts.

Rolling and vacuuming of the track

The essence of rolling is to expand the copper tubes at their junctions. For this, a special rolling machine and nozzles are used. Before rolling the tube, put a nut on it, because after expanding it you will not be able to do this. It is extremely important to provide a reliable connection through which freon would not flow. To do this, tighten the nuts at the joints as much as possible, but do not overdo it.

Vacuuming is necessary to remove residual dust and moisture from the track. To do this, you will need equipment for installing split systems, such as a vacuum pump. It turns on, and at the same time, the port on the pressure gauge opens. When the arrow goes into vacuum, turn off the pump and close the port. If the arrow does not go down, then this means that one of the connections allows air to pass through, tighten the nuts more tightly. If this does not help, then it is worth checking the quality of rolling. If this is not done, then there is a high probability that the compressor will burn out after one winter.

Installation of a split system: instructions for starting freon

After you have successfully completed the vacuum, it's time to fill the system with freon. To do this, use a hex wrench to unscrew the supply hose (this is a thin tube). It is important not to confuse with a thick suction tube, as it can deteriorate which is not good. The sequence is important here, so the supply opens first, and then the suction. At this stage, fix the freon pressure in the system and check all electrical connections. If everything is in order, then you can carry out a test run.

If the compressor does not immediately turn on, do not be alarmed, this is quite normal, there is nothing to worry about. Record pressure and tension. If everything is in order, then the air conditioner to the maximum. So he should work for 10-15 minutes. During this time, freon will go through the system, and the oil will have time to return.

Do-it-yourself installation of a split system: important points

It must be understood that there should be no air in the system, which is why evacuation is a mandatory procedure. As noted above, all connections must be reliable and durable. It is advisable to make several checks using a vacuum pump. Only after you make sure that everything is in order, you can carry out a test run.

It is safe to say that the installation of the interblock route and its sealing are the most complex and time-consuming stages. As you can see, you can not do without an assistant. This is due to the fact that it is very difficult and unsafe to install the outdoor unit on your own. In general, there are no overwhelming tasks here. We observe the horizontal, seal the connections, do not use an ordinary hacksaw - and everything will be fine.

Conclusion

So we figured out how split systems are installed. Dismantling / installation in priority should be carried out by specialists with experience and high qualifications. So the equipment will last for many years. But it is extremely important not to forget to service it periodically.

By the way, during the time there is a risk of stumbling upon fittings or wiring. Therefore, first check for hidden communications, and only after that get to work. The event is quite noisy and dusty, so prepare the room in advance. In general, there is nothing complicated here, the main thing is to follow all the above rules. But anyway, self-installation should only be done if you are confident in your abilities. But it's better to call the experts. If the installation is carried out incorrectly, then at least there will be someone to make a claim. That's about all there is to say about the installation work.

Climate technology is designed to make life comfortable, providing coolness in the summer heat. The cost of split systems is quite high, and taking into account the installation by specialists from the service, it turns out to be unbearable for ordinary consumers. You can save money if you buy an air conditioner out of season, and do the installation yourself.

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation

Do-it-yourself installation of a split system takes place in two stages: preparation (selection of a place, search for tools, purchase of consumables) and installation. The work is carried out in strict accordance with the rules and technical requirements. Miscalculations and errors of installers are the main reason for the breakdown of climate equipment. Before starting the installation, you should understand the device and the principle of operation of the air conditioner.

The system consists of two blocks:

external (condenser) has a compressor that changes the aggregate state of the refrigerant;
internal (evaporator) with the help of a fan drives air through a heat exchanger cooled by freon.

The blocks are connected by a route of copper pipes through which the refrigerant circulates.

The efficiency of the equipment depends on the correct placement of the air conditioner modules and high-quality sealing of the joints and connections of the pipeline.

A brief guide to installing a split system with your own hands includes the following items:

Selection and preparation of a place for installation of an external and internal air conditioner module.
Installation of the outdoor unit.
Installation indoor unit.
Laying communications: freon line, drainage hose, electric cable.
Vacuuming the system and test run.

Mounting tools

The installation of an air conditioner is associated with the installation of blocks inside and outside the premises and the laying of the route. To work, you will need the following tools:

perforator;
drill;
locksmith set (keys, screwdrivers, level, etc.);
Vacuum pump;
manometric manifold;
rolling;
pipe cutter

In the process of self-assembly, you can not do without consumables:

brackets and hardware for the outdoor unit;
2 thick-walled copper pipes with footage equal to the length trails plus a margin of 30 cm;
electric cable with a cross section of 1.5-2.5 mm2;
heat-insulating materials in the form of a sleeve for a freon route;
reinforced tape.

Site selection for indoor and outdoor unit

When choosing a place for installing blocks, observe technical requirements and provide follow-up services. There are no special problems with the location of the internal module. Installation rules:

15 cm from the ceiling;
no closer than 150 cm from large objects that impede the flow of air;
away from heating devices;
it is impossible to close the block with curtains and curtains;
cold air should not get on the bed and workplace.

Installation of an outdoor unit requires taking into account a large number of factors:

on the ground floor, the distance from the ground is not less than 2 m;
the module cannot be installed on the sunny side, near trees;
the distance from the rear panel to the wall of 15-20 cm is necessary for the removal of hot air;
the support must support the weight of the outdoor unit.

Do-it-yourself installation of an air conditioner is carried out not only near the window, but also on the wall or balcony parapet. For apartments high-rise buildings this is the best option. Reduces the risk of injury during installation, maintenance is not a problem. The balcony should be unglazed or have wide-opening frames.

When choosing installation locations, the length of the route must be taken into account. It is not recommended to make the pipeline more than 7 m and less than 3 m. Additional refilling with freon will be required, heat losses will increase. The best option place parts of the air conditioner on one wall or on adjacent ones.

Mounting the outdoor unit

The external air conditioner module is attached using metal brackets. Support elements are selected according to the weight and model of the split system. The margin of safety should exceed the recommended load by 2 times. Reliable fastening with minimal vibration is only possible on level ground. You can not install the block on the insulation, fixing is carried out to the wall.

Pre-marking is done and holes for the dowels are drilled. Brackets are mounted horizontally. The block is fixed on the supports with 4 bolts. In a private house, appliances are not at risk of damage or theft, but on the ground floor high-rise building it is better to install an anti-vandal grille.

Installing the indoor unit

The mounting plate of the indoor unit is included in the package. A place for fasteners is marked on the wall. The absence of electrical wires in this place is preliminarily checked. The plate is set horizontally with building level and securely fixed to the support. The block is fixed on the mounting element, its location in the plane is checked. Skews will cause condensate to flow out of the drain pan.

After installing two blocks, a hole is knocked out in the wall for a freon route, drainage and an electric cable using a perforator. Its diameter is not less than 45 mm. Be sure to form a slope towards the street. To protect the pipes from damage, a sleeve is inserted into the hole.

Wiring connection

It is recommended to lay a separate cable from the switchboard to the air conditioner with the installation of the machine. Selected copper wire, the number of cores depends on the type of connection: single-phase - 3, three-phase - 5. For low-power models, you can use the existing outlet. In the documents of the air conditioner there is circuit diagram A that displays the location of all items. Before starting the connection, it is carefully studied.

A cable connecting the modules is laid between the indoor and outdoor unit. It is placed in a protective corrugated pipe. The ends of the cores are stripped and attached to the block terminals. The ground wire is marked separately. By connecting the blocks according to the scheme, they check the operation of the device.

Laying a freon route and drainage

The refrigerant responsible for heat removal circulates in the system along a route of copper pipes. The material is sold in bays. A part is cut off along the line of the highway, taking into account a margin of 20-30 cm. A pipe cutter is used for work. The tool cannot be replaced with a hacksaw, the cut will be rough. Any unevenness of the pipes provokes a freon leak. There is also the possibility of copper shavings getting inside. At the time of installation work, the edges of the products are closed with plugs.

A heater in the form of a sleeve made of polyurethane foam or rubber is put on each tube. The joints of the material are glued with reinforced tape. Thermal insulation prevents the formation of condensate. After insulation, threaded flanges are put on the pipes. Further, the edges of the products are flared. A complex procedure that requires experience and special tools can be replaced with a ready-made kit with pipes flared at the factory.

Communications have two ways: hidden or open. In the first case, a strobe is cut along the marking line from the air conditioner to the hole in the wall. This option is optimal at the repair stage, otherwise it makes no sense to perform dusty and time-consuming work. The main pipes are laid along the wall and hidden behind a decorative plastic box.

The easiest way to organize a condensate drain is to bring the drainage hose outside. If it is impossible to carry out the procedure, the liquid is sent to the sewer. In this case, a siphon is installed that cuts off unpleasant odors.

Mounting drainage pipe is carried out with a slope towards the removal of moisture, sagging and lifting are not allowed. The end of the hose should be 60-80 cm from the wall so as not to blur the structure.

The components of the communications are connected into a common bundle with the help of adhesive tape, in this state they are pulled through the hole. Nuts are used to connect copper pipes to service fittings of the units. When opening the connection ports of the indoor unit, nitrogen comes out, this is normal. Union nuts are tightened with a wrench, soft metal provides tight connection. Pipes are connected to the external module in a similar way.

Vacuum system

The vacuuming procedure removes air, dust particles and moisture from the system. For its implementation, a special pump is connected to outdoor unit through the manifold gauge. The process takes 20-30 minutes. After the pressure gauge pointer drops to -1 bar, the equipment is switched off. Within 30 minutes, monitoring is carried out, if the pressure does not change, the system is sealed and ready to be filled with freon.

A vacuum pump is expensive equipment that does not make sense to purchase for the installation of one split system. Some craftsmen replace the evacuation of the track with a purge of nitrogen or freon. In this case, moisture remains, provoking an early breakdown of the compressor. To perform the installation with high quality, the vacuum pump is rented.

It was necessary to install air conditioning from the leading place of residence. Air conditioning 3kv, LG. Inner block 98x30x30 cm, external 70x65x30 cm. The length of the route was 5.5 meters. The work took about 3 hours, namely, the assessment of the work to be done, the calculation of communications, marking, chasing a wall of about 2 meters, making holes for communications, installing the route, soldering the connections, hanging the outdoor and indoor units, connecting to the power grid, cleaning, foaming the holes in the wall , commissioning, tool assembly, writing a contract and drinking a cup of coffee))). The price was 5000 rubles for work, 6500 rubles for materials. Of the materials they used ~ 11 meters of fashionable tube, ~ 6 meters of cable, 1/2 pack of mounting foam, ~ 4.5 meters of water drainage pipe, ~ 11 meters of tubular insulation, brackets for the external unit, mounting bolts, a roll of electrical tape, about 10 dowels and bolts, perhaps something else has not been taken into account. Of the tools, they had a professional puncher in the amount of 2 pieces, a gas soldering iron, a box with pliers, screwdrivers, etc., several boxes with special tools for installing air conditioners, a ladder, bags with consumables and other little things. Two young guys worked, judging by the conversation with them, they know electricians well. Bottom line: If some hidden malfunction or defect does not come up, then I will definitely recommend the master to others.

Grade 5+

Very satisfied with the work of the master! Arrived quickly, did everything right and took a small fee for his work. I had to diagnose and fill the air conditioner, before looking for a master here at profi.ru, I turned to a company that deals with air conditioner maintenance. I found them on the Internet. I told the manager that I needed to refuel the air conditioner, they told me that such a service is included in the full package of services along with washing, cleaning and diagnostics, the price of a full service with refueling is 3000 rubles. I agreed to these conditions. Two young people arrived and started a flurry of activity, about ten minutes later they reported that the air conditioners were not charged, but only washed and cleaned. For three thousand. And since we had almost run out of freon, another master would come and fill us up for another three . Like this! I refused their services..Immediately after that I made an order for a pro. Dmitry responded, came and did all the work, along with refueling, 4 times cheaper. Thank you for your professionalism and honesty!

Grade 5+

Korotkova, m. Pionerskaya, Slavyansky Boulevard

Services of the order: Gas station of the conditioner.

I say from the bottom of my heart, people with professional skills, decent, punctual, competent. Well done, they installed the air conditioner very well. I had to decide technical problem and decided. Thanks a lot. I recommend it to anyone and everyone who decides to install an air conditioner. Respect.

Grade 5+

The air conditioner should be selected and installed in advance, without waiting summer heat. So you can save a significant amount, especially if you complete it. In order for the equipment to work without failures, do-it-yourself installation of the air conditioner must be carried out strictly according to the instructions, in a suitable place for this. Mismatch of technical conditions or incorrect selection of parts will lead to a quick breakdown of the split system.

To properly install everything, you should have an idea about the device and the principle of operation of the air conditioner. It consists of a compressor and an evaporator unit connected by pipes. The compressor is mounted on the outside of the wall, and the evaporator is installed indoors. Expensive models have not one indoor unit, but several that are connected to one compressor.

The refrigerant is supplied under high pressure through the nozzle into the evaporator block. It enters the evaporator chamber, expands there, boils, and its vapors begin to intensively absorb heat. During this process, water condensate is released and settles on the radiator of the evaporative unit. From there, the moisture is sent to the tank and is discharged through the tube outside the building.

All this time, the compressor pumps out the refrigerant vapor from the chamber, increasing the pressure behind the pump. As a result, the refrigerant heats up and turns from a liquid into a high-density mist. In this state, the refrigerant enters the condensate chamber equipped with a radiator, is cooled by a fan and turns into a liquid again. In this form, it is again fed under pressure into the evaporator nozzle and the working process is repeated.

The efficiency of the equipment and the energy consumption directly depend on the operating conditions. If a heater is located near the air conditioner, the compressor consumes and fails more often. Ordinary dust that has got inside the system can also cause a breakdown, and therefore wet cleaning should be carried out regularly and very carefully. You can not put various objects on the surface of the block, as well as cover it with something.

To prevent the evaporation of the refrigerant, all joints and connections should be carefully sealed during installation. The outdoor unit should be placed lower than the indoor unit and in the coolest place possible. It is good if the unit is constantly in the shade from the overhang of the roof or walls. Compliance with these conditions will ensure uninterrupted operation of the air conditioner and a comfortable indoor climate.

Air conditioner detail	Description
1. Fan	creates a stream of air blowing around the condenser
2. Capacitor	a radiator in which freon is cooled and condensed. The air blown through the condenser is heated accordingly
3. Compressor	compresses freon and keeps it moving refrigeration circuit. The compressor can be piston or scroll (scroll) type. Reciprocating compressors are cheaper but less reliable than scroll compressors, especially under conditions low temperatures outside air
4. Control board	installed only on inverter air conditioners. In non-inverter models, they try to place all electronics in the indoor unit, since large fluctuations in temperature and humidity reduce the reliability of electronic components
5. Four way valve	installed in reversible (heat - cold) air conditioners. In heating mode, this valve changes the direction of freon movement. In this case, the indoor and outdoor units seem to change places: the indoor unit works for heating, and the outdoor unit works for cooling
6. Unions	are connected to them copper pipes connecting outdoor and indoor units
7. Freon system filter	is installed in front of the compressor inlet and protects it from copper chips and other small particles that may enter the system during the installation of the air conditioner. Of course, if the installation was performed in violation of the technology and a large amount of debris got into the system, then the filter will not help.
8. Protective quick-release cover	closes the fittings and the terminal block used to connect electrical cables. In some models, the protective cover covers only the terminal block, and the union connections remain outside

	Description
1. Front panel	represents plastic grill through which air enters the unit. The panel can be easily removed for maintenance of the air conditioner (cleaning filters, etc.)
2. Coarse filter	represents plastic mesh and is designed to trap coarse dust, animal hair, etc. For normal operation of the air conditioner, the filter must be cleaned at least twice a month
3. Fine filter	it happens various types: charcoal (removes unpleasant odors), electrostatic (retains fine dust), etc. The presence or absence of fine filters has no effect on the operation of the air conditioner
4. Fan	has 3 - 4 rotation speeds
5. Evaporator	a radiator in which cold freon is heated and evaporated. The air blown through the radiator is cooled accordingly
6. Horizontal blinds	Adjust the direction of the air flow vertically. These blinds are electrically operated and their position can be adjusted from the remote control. remote control. In addition, the blinds can automatically oscillate to evenly distribute the air flow throughout the room.
7. Display panel	indicators (LEDs) are installed on the front panel of the air conditioner, showing the operating mode of the air conditioner and signaling possible malfunctions
8. Vertical blinds	are used to adjust the direction of the airflow horizontally. In domestic air conditioners, the position of these shutters can only be adjusted manually. The ability to control from the remote control is only in some models of premium air conditioners
Condensate tray	located under the evaporator and serves to collect condensate (water that forms on the surface of a cold evaporator). Water is drained from the sump through a drain hose.
Control board	usually located with right side indoor unit. This board contains an electronics unit with a central microprocessor
Union connections	located at the bottom rear of the indoor unit. Copper pipes connecting the outdoor and indoor units are connected to them.

Air conditioner installation tools

If you are going to install the air conditioner yourself, you need to prepare in advance all the tools that you may need:

In addition, you need a whole bay copper tube with factory-rolled ends. Scratches, dents and similar defects are not allowed.

The best time to install the air conditioner is overhaul, because you have to break through the wall and damage the finish.

Video - The principle of operation of the air conditioner

Prices for accessories for air conditioners

Accessories for air conditioners

Air conditioner installation instructions

If the tools are purchased, the air conditioner is delivered and unpacked, you can get to work. The outdoor unit is installed first, and then the system is mounted indoors. During the installation process, one should not forget about safety, especially if the work is carried out at the level of the second floor and above.

Outdoor unit fixing

When installing an air conditioner in a private house, there are no particular difficulties in placing the outdoor unit, but the place must be chosen very carefully. The block housing should not block the view of neighbors, and condensate should not flow down the wall of the house. At the same time, the air conditioner should be mounted within reach from the balcony, since such equipment needs periodic maintenance.

It is best if the block is fixed to the east or north side of the window or balcony, and preferably in its lower part. So he will not interfere with anyone, and you can easily reach him through opened window. Using a level, mark the places where the brackets are attached and drill holes in the wall for anchor bolts. For laying inter-unit communications, a through hole with a diameter of 80 mm is drilled. AT brick wall it is recommended to drill along the seam between the bricks - it will take less time and the hole will turn out neater.

Brackets are installed according to the markup, align and securely tighten the bolts. The outdoor unit itself is fixed so that at least 10 cm remains between the radiator and the wall surface. The connection is made a little later, at the same time the resulting gaps are closed. If the unit is securely mounted on a vertical surface, you can proceed to the next step.

The indoor unit must not be mounted behind curtains, above a battery, or in rooms with sources of electrical interference that can cause damage to the block processor. After choosing a place, be sure to check the wall for the absence of already laid communications - electrical wiring, water or heating pipes.

If the site is free, fix the mounting plate: step back from the ceiling 10 cm, from the corner of the wall 5 cm and mark a horizontal line with a pencil. Drill holes for the fasteners and screw the plate securely. The indoor unit of the air conditioner is mounted on the plate, after which a hole is drilled in the side wall for a communication connection - electrical wiring, pipes, hoses for condensate drainage.

Wiring connection

For a block indoors, they lay their own, the minimum cross section of which is 1.5 square meters. mm. Be sure to install an automatic shutdown. When the wiring is laid, it is connected to the input shield: wire yellow color with a green stripe is connected to the neutral wire. To determine the zero and phase, use the indicator.

After that isolated stranded wires connect the terminals of both blocks, passing them through a hole in the wall. The names of the terminals must necessarily match the wires, everything is clearly written in the instructions attached to the air conditioner.

Copper pipes must be cut, leaving a margin for bends of about a meter. When bending tubes, special tools are used to avoid wrinkles, dents and cracking of the metal. Thermal insulation is put on the prepared tubes - polyurethane foam hoses. Foam rubber is not suitable as a sealant, as it has a short service life.

Threaded flanges are put on insulated pipes, while the thread should be located at the end of the tube. The next step is flaring the tubes. Flaring must be done very carefully so that cracks and grooves do not form on the tubes. The nut should be easily put on the flare, and it is better to tighten it with a torque wrench - this will prevent the flared connections from being squeezed out of the nut.

Pipelines are alternately attached to the corresponding fittings, which are difficult to confuse due to different diameters. The flanges are screwed on the fittings so that the connection is tight, but not pinched, otherwise there is a risk of damaging the tube. In conclusion, a piece of plastic tube with a reinforced body is connected to the drain pipe. Fastening is carried out with a piece of heat-shrinkable tubing or a threaded flange, if it is included in the kit. The drain tube should be removed from bearing wall as far as possible.

Now the pipes are led into the hole, leveled, from the outside they are fixed tightly to the wall with clamps. The wiring cable is fixed nearby, the pipeline is connected to the outdoor unit. The hole is blown out mounting foam or filled with silicone. All external connections are checked with a bicycle pump and a soapy solution for leaks. If air is leaking somewhere, the thread is tightened more tightly. After verification soap scum wipe off the thread with a clean cloth.

Vacuum system

Vacuuming the system makes it possible to remove the smallest particles of dust and moisture. This process is carried out after sealing the threaded connections, otherwise it will not be possible to completely pump out the air. To do this, a vacuum pump is connected to the system and air is pumped out for an hour.

Filling and testing the air conditioner

The refrigerant from the cylinder must be pumped into the system. An adapter and a pressure gauge are connected to the cylinder, and then, strictly monitoring the pressure, the reservoir is filled. When the process is completed, the automatic disconnector is turned on on the air conditioner, after which the system automatically enters the test mode. If everything works smoothly and the circulation of cold air becomes uniform, you can close the hole in the wall, clean up the consequences of installation and enjoy the coolness.

Find out how it is done, and also check out the step-by-step guide from our new article.

Prices for the range of air conditioners

Air conditioners

Video - Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation

The word split actually means "gap", but in technical English it has several meanings. In this case, we are talking about an air conditioning system using an air conditioner with spaced blocks. We will tell you how to install a split system with your own hands in a city apartment and a private house.

How air conditioner works

Installing an air conditioner is a tricky business. In order not to screw up, you need to know exactly what is being done for what. Therefore, we briefly recall the principle of operation of the air conditioner:

A refrigerant enters the evaporator through a narrow opening - a die or nozzle - under pressure: a low-boiling liquid with a high heat of evaporation. In the evaporator chamber, the refrigerant expands, boils, evaporates and absorbs a lot of heat.
At the same time, water condensate forms on the evaporator radiator (dew falls). The condensate flows into the tank, and from it drainage tube- outside.
The compressor, arranged on the principle of a vacuum pump, continuously pumps out refrigerant vapor from the evaporator chamber. From the increase in pressure behind the pump, the refrigerant heats up and goes into a supercritical state: neither gas nor liquid, something like a very dense fog.
Next, the refrigerant enters the condensation chamber, also equipped with a radiator, which is blown by a fan. Its temperature drops below the critical one and the refrigerant condenses into a liquid.
The liquid refrigerant is blown through the die into the evaporator; the work cycle is repeated.

Do's and Don'ts of Air Conditioning

From the principle of operation of the air conditioner, it is clear that for its successful operation and economical consumption of electricity during installation, the following must be taken into account:

Any thermal contact between the cold and hot zones dramatically increases the power consumption: the compressor, in addition to pumping the agent, now has to drive heat inside the system - at the expense of the owner.
Dust and debris in the system are unacceptable: the vacuum pump is a high-precision device; one piece of metal can destroy it.
The system must be completely sealed: low-boiling liquids strive to evaporate even through a micron gap.
The outdoor unit must be located lower than the indoor unit: in this case, the thermosyphon effect (the heated liquid tends to rise) facilitates the operation of the compressor. Otherwise, the compressor, in addition to the additional consumption of electricity to lift the agent, will also have to overcome the thermosiphon effect.
The outdoor unit should be located in the coolest place possible. Any additional heating is paid by the owner.
The drain tube must not have an upward bend anywhere. Any “U” quickly becomes a source of infection: condensate is pure water, in which microbes and fungi are free and at ease, and their spores are always in the air.

What is an air split

Air conditioners for split systems are made with separate units: evaporative (internal) and compressor-condensing (outdoor). The names, however, are conditional, because. most modern air conditioners can both cool and heat the room; During heating, the refrigerant condenses in the indoor unit and evaporates in the outdoor unit. Therefore, they often say simply: outdoor and indoor unit.

In some (rather expensive) models of air conditioners, several indoor units are connected to one outdoor unit, which can work separately for cooling and heating. Such a split system, with the initial high cost of operation, turns out to be more economical: in this case, interroom heat exchange does not interfere, but helps the air conditioner. How a split system is installed in an apartment is shown in the figure:

When is the best time to split

It is better to time the installation of a split system in an apartment for repairs. The work ahead is serious: for the installation of electricians, you will have to walk along more than one wall. If the walls are already tiled - lay the new cladding in advance in expenses.

Tool

In order for the split to work and not break in a day or a week, you need to purchase or rent the following tool:

Perforator with a set of chisels - you will have to make a hole under 100 mm in diameter in the main wall.
Reinforcement detector, if the wall is concrete - hitting the rebar during grooving, you will have to punch a new hole.
Pipe cutter. Never cut the refrigerant pipes with a hacksaw! Copper chips will definitely remain in the gap, which will quickly kill the compressor.
Tube flaring kit. When expanding with improvised means, tightness cannot be achieved. About flaring tubes will be discussed separately. Good flaring kits also include a pipe cutter with a scraper.
Scraper (reamer) - a tool for stripping the ends of pipes. A needle file or file is not suitable because of the same sawdust.
Bicycle hand pump– to check the tightness of the system.
Vacuum pump - to evacuate the system before filling. Flushing with refrigerant, which is often recommended, does not remove moisture, which ruins the compressor no worse than metal filings.
Phase indicator and tester for electrical work.
Pressure gauge.

About pipelines

Buying pipes

It is better to buy a copper tube in a whole bay: it is better to spend money on some stock, which will then go somewhere else, than to risk the compressor: sawdust may remain in the tube from which it was cut off. Also make sure that the ends of the tube in the bay are factory-rolled, and the tube itself does not have dents or cracks. Long piping will allow the outdoor unit to be lowered, so that some overspending when buying is then offset by a good thermosyphon.

Cutting, scraping and expanding tubes

Before embarking on the installation, you need to practice flaring the tubes: for an air conditioner, this is a vital issue. Flaring is done with a special tool; how it works, looks, what defects are possible, and what the final result should be - you can see in the figure:

For training, you need to immediately buy some kind of scrap of the same with a tube bay; do not touch the bay before installation. At the same time, we will practice trimming and scraping: the tube is cut in a circular motion, and when scraping, the tube must be held with the end down so that the scraped off burrs do not fall into its lumen.

Outdoor unit installation

It is strongly not recommended to install the outdoor unit on the wall by yourself, starting from the second floor. Why? See the statistics of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and the Ministry of Health in the sections: "Resuscitation" and "Urgent surgery". Fortunately, the upper floors have balconies or loggias.

On a balcony, the outdoor unit mounts very well on self-made shallow (i.e. shallow) brackets, see fig. On any balcony, no matter how you turn it, there is always a north or east side, just right for the air conditioner. But even when installed in the loggia "facing" to the south, the visor will protect the outdoor unit from the direct rays of the sun during the hottest time of the day, when the air conditioner is just running.

With this installation method, the installation and maintenance of the air conditioner is easy and does not pose a danger. The only inconvenient operation is fixing the block to the brackets; it will have to be done by leaning over the railing.

To install the brackets, the glazing will have to be temporarily removed, and the root parts of the brackets should be cut into the lower frame frame. If the “roots” of the brackets are bent down in the form of horizontally arranged “U”, then you can do without struts and not touch the balcony skin.

Split system installation

Installation of a split system in an apartment is carried out in the following order:

And now we will describe some features of each stage of work. Allowable distances from walls and ceiling for indoor and outdoor units are shown in the figure on the right.

Places for indoor units

Indoor units cannot be installed:

Above radiators and other heat sources.
Behind curtains, curtains, screens and other airflow obstructions.
In rooms with sources of electrical interference: workshops with power tools, induction and microwave ovens, electric ovens - pickups can disable the unit's processor.

The question immediately arises: what about the kitchen? In it, it turns out, the air conditioner cannot be installed at all. Right. The supply of conditioned air to the kitchen is provided.

Wiring

The smallest air conditioner consumes 1.5 kW of electricity. Therefore, for it it is necessary to lay a separate wiring with a cross section of at least 1.5 square meters. mm and put the automatic shutdown - as for a boiler or washing machine.

When connecting the wires to the input shield, we connect the yellow wire with a longitudinal green stripe to the neutral (neutral wire). Phase and zero are determined by the phase indicator. If the wiring is made from wires in non-standard colors, zero and phase must be marked at both ends.

outdoor unit

Installation of the outdoor unit has already been described above.

Hole in the wall

Firstly, if the house is block, you need to determine in advance the locations of the reinforcement. It is impossible to cut off the reinforcement in the hole: outer wall always bearing, and reinforcement violation is unacceptable.

Secondly, a second person is needed: he must stand below and warn passers-by. An accidentally dropped piece of concrete or brick can cost the owner a long prison sentence.

The diameter of the hole must be at least 80 mm. Recommendations about 60 and even 50 mm clearly do not take into account thermal insulation.

Pipelines

We cut the tubes to size with a margin of 1 m, for bends. Bending the tubes must be done carefully to prevent kinks or wrinkles. Wrinkles create resistance to the flow of the agent, and this entails an increased consumption of electricity. Permissible bending radius of tubes is not less than 100 mm.

Then we put threaded flanges (“nuts”) on the tubes and flare the ends of the tubes. Make sure that the flanges are put on correctly - threaded towards the end of the tube.

Finally, we connect the pipelines to the fittings. This must be done alternately so that the cold fitting of the indoor unit is not connected to the hot outdoor unit. The matter is facilitated by the fact that in most air conditioners hot and cold fittings of different diameters.

We tighten the flanges on the fittings tightly, but not tightly: copper can be easily pinched. We will tighten the threaded connections later, when sealing.

For drainage, you need a piece of reinforced plastic tubing. We connect it to the drain pipe either with a threaded flange, if provided, or with a piece of heat-shrinkable tube. You can heat the heat shrink with a soldering iron with light circular movements, slightly touching the tube with a sting.

Electrical connections

Stranded wires in insulation with a cross section of at least 1.5 sq. mm we connect the terminals of the same name of the indoor and outdoor units. If the names of some terminals do not match, we understand the instructions, consult with a specialist. Of course, both pipelines and wires are passed through a hole in the wall.

Sealing

When sealing, we use a method proven by generations of gas workers: a soap solution. We buy 0.5 liters of distilled water at the pharmacy, heat it “to steam” and, stirring gently, dissolve a spoonful of laundry soap shavings in it.