Finishing 

Sew a pencil skirt from jersey with an elastic band. How to sew a jersey skirt? When basting and stitching, fold the cut with the right side inward

The main feature of knitwear is its elastic properties. Our task is to learn how to use them. Therefore, before sewing a knitted skirt, we will spend a small one. So, elasticity can be weak, medium and high.

The next step is to choose a skirt model, taking into account the elasticity of the existing knitwear, or vice versa - to choose the material for the desired model.

Weakly elastic knitwear is a rather dense material, reminiscent of a fabric with elastane. From it you can sew straight, narrowed, semi-adjacent and tight models of skirts. Of course, a flared skirt can also be sewn. But you need to keep in mind that the dense material will keep its shape in such models, the tails will turn out to be large, the silhouette of the skirt will be extended from top to bottom.

Knitwear with high elasticity is a soft, flowing material. You can sew a knitted skirt from it without a fastener - just with an elastic band. Such knitwear drapes beautifully in flared and fantasy models with many folds and gathers, without creating excess volume.

Knitwear of medium elasticity is something in between the above groups.

An interesting model of a skirt to the floor. Knitwear "butter" - very elastic, flowing. Creates a straight silhouette, despite the fact that the skirt is cut according to the half-sun pattern.
A skirt without a fastener, put on due to the extensibility of the material.

Knitwear is a fairly popular material from which things are very often sewn. It gained such popularity due to its elastic properties. This is very soft material which will perfectly brighten up the silhouette.

Before starting work, check the elasticity of the knitwear. There are two types: weakly and highly elastic knitwear. For tailoring, it is better to use highly elastic knitwear, as it is a good and flowing material.

How to easily sew a knitted skirt

Most often, a pencil is made of knitwear, since this material well emphasizes all the charms of the figure.

  • We decide on and take measurements from the hips (volume). Since the skirt is made of stretchy material, this measurement should be slightly reduced (for example, if the volume of the hips is 102 centimeters, then it is reduced to 94 centimeters).
  • The fabric is folded in half to a width of about 24 centimeters with allowances for seams. We draw a vertical line. After the level of the hips, we narrow the line by 2 centimeters. The back panel is pushed in exactly the same way.

  • On the front, it is desirable to lower the upper cut by 1.5 centimeters. This is done so that when you need to sit down, the skirt does not rise.

  • After that, you need to try on to look at how the fabric fits the buttocks.
  • Now let's start processing the seams. The side seams are very neatly combined and it is desirable to stitch the joint carefully and slowly. Next, the bottom seams are processed.
  • To keep the skirt perfectly, you need to sew in an elastic band. It is measured at the waist and stitched. Then it is applied to the upper edge of the skirt and stitched. That's all!

How to sew a jersey skirt with an elastic band

Decide on the style of the skirt and get to work!

  • You can take your favorite skirt and attach it to the knitwear, which is folded in half, and outlined in chalk.
  • Leave the fabric at the seams (approximately 1.5 or 2 centimeters), at the waist (2 centimeters), at the bottom (about 3 centimeters).

  • We fasten everything with pins and go to the fitting.
  • From the remnants of the fabric, it is necessary to cut out a belt (about 10 centimeters), taking into account all the allowances.
  • You can start sewing. If the skirt will be sewn on sewing machine, it is better to choose an elastic stitch. Please note that special needles are needed.
  • All seams must be ironed.
  • The belt is folded in half and pinned to the top edge of the skirt.
  • It is also sewn on a typewriter. Don't forget to leave room for the elastic.
  • The elastic is threaded into the waistband. Make it so that it is 3 centimeters shorter than the belt. Adjust everything during the fitting and select the appropriate parameters.

  • The bottom of the skirt is stitched with a double needle. The seams are steamed and everything is ready!

In addition, there are many more ways to sew beautiful and elegant knitted skirts of various lengths: short, midi, floor length. You can also use patterns and. Such products will emphasize all the advantages of the figure and correct the shortcomings.

How to sew a jersey skirt - video

I love knitted skirts. So cozy, so comfortable. You can choose knitwear for any style: from classic to boho

Cut and tailoring of knitted blouses I made out in the course "We sew from knitwear"

I gave knitwear trousers in the course “Leggings are the hit of the season”. There, a tight-fitting model narrowed down is considered, if you want wider trousers, you can simply evenly expand the trousers from the hip

But there were questions about jersey skirts. Let's take a look

In stores, I see knitted skirts without back and front darts at all. But they sell things for an average figure, without bright reliefs.

If you have bulging buttocks and / or embossed hips, then the skirt will most likely not fit well: either it is too tight on convex places, or it will be loose at the waist, or the back panel will ride up at the bottom

So, how to sew jersey skirts?

Everything that I will say below applies to straight skirts and "pencil" skirts made of stretch jersey.

For skirts, elastic knitwear is best suited, which holds its shape well. If the knitwear does not return to its original position after stretching, then it is not suitable for a skirt

If the knitwear does not stretch at all, then we sew it like a regular fabric.

It is desirable that the fabric contains more synthetics. It is convenient: worn, washed, dried, put on. Does not shrink, does not wrinkle, does not wear out

I sew my knitted skirts according to the same patterns as skirts from other fabrics. Just to make the skirt fit the hips beautifully, I calculate the pattern using the formula Hip circumference multiplied by a factor of 0.9

I also do back darts on my skirts. If only the knitwear is strongly stretched, for example, by half, then I can reduce the tuck by a couple of centimeters.

If you calculated the tuck solution for your pattern, and it turned out to be 3 cm, and even more so 6 cm, then you MUST make back tucks.

When constructing a pattern, I also reduce the side tucks by a couple of centimeters. It's best to trim after fitting.

But the belt I most often do on an elastic band. I have a slight difference between the hips and waist, and therefore I can afford this way of processing

If you plan to tuck a blouse into a skirt, as it is now fashionable again, then, of course, you need to make a belt in accordance with all the rules (detailed lessons on the belt in the course "Skirt from A to Z" http://skirt.site/)

If there is a large difference between the waist and hips, then you will also have to make a belt and sew in a zipper. Otherwise, either there will be an assembly near the waist, or it will be inconvenient to wear

To make the skirt fit well, you can make a lined skirt. The lining for a jersey skirt should have the same amount of stretch as the top. Cut according to the pattern of the top

Narrow, stylish, figure-hugging and emphasizing the dignity of a pencil skirt will never go out of style. This style can be called universal, as it suits women different ages, with different type shapes and settings. If you don’t have such a skirt yet, or your old one doesn’t suit you, and you want a new one that will fit you perfectly, you can easily make a knitted pencil skirt quickly and step by step with your own hands!

Every girl can sew such a skirt, even if she has never done anything like this before. Of course, you can try to make it without a pattern, but it’s not a fact that it will turn out even and beautiful, so let’s do it according to technology.

Look at the pattern.

So, you are convinced that making a pencil skirt is not difficult at all, so let's proceed to the step-by-step instructions.

Important: you do not need to make allowances for the seams in width, since the pencil skirt has an elastic band, especially from knitwear, and it should not hang.

We sew a knitted pencil skirt with our own hands in a master class

To begin with, decide how long the skirt you want to prepare, be sure to measure from the waist to the level you need in a standing position, also initially measure your waist and hips. Don't forget, when you bend over, sit down, the skirt will become shorter in length.

Here are the initial parameters that you can change for yourself:

LENGTH=65 cm;

WAIST=(70+4) cm;

HIPS line= (100+10) cm;

  • jersey patch LENGTH x LineHIPS cm
  • Elastic band 4 cm wide and 70 cm long (also depends on your parameters)
  • Sewing machine (optional but recommended)
  • Pattern chalk
  • Threads to match the color of the fabric (or whatever you want)
  • Tracing paper
  • perseverance

So, you have decided on the length of the fabric and the length of the elastic (according to your waist).

In the end, you should end up with something like this.

  1. Measure out the rectangle of fabric you need.
  2. Cut it off.
  3. Take paper, measure the length, equal LENGTH your future skirt.
  4. From the side that is comfortable for you, measure the distance HIPS Line*2.
  5. The resulting square is your workspace.
  6. Divide the paper in half and draw a line. Place a dot at a distance of 18 cm from the top. This will be the intersection of the HIPS line with the side of the skirt.
  7. Draw a line. You should get a cross. Below the vertical line, measure 1.5-2 cm in each direction. Connect to the point HIPS Line. This is necessary in order to make the skirt narrower.
  8. From above, measure 3.5-4 cm from the vertical line. Connect the HIPS Line to the point so that the line is not straight along the ruler, but rounded, so you will make yourself a waist on the skirt.
  9. Approximately in the middle of the skirt, make darts 3.5-4 cm in the center of each side.
  10. Fold the fabric in half so that it is LENGTH*(HIPS/2) cm.
  11. Cut out the resulting paper pattern.
  12. Attach to the fabric and pin with a pin, needle, put something heavy, in general, somehow fix the cut stencil on the fabric.
  13. Take the chalk and circle the resulting stencil.
  14. You can remove the paper from the fabric.

Luckily, you haven't cut anything out of the fabric yet, so there's a chance to tweak everything if you didn't get it right from the start.

In the image you see a "box" around the resulting stencil. If it seems to you that you have not done enough, you can expand the skirt, but initially the additional centimeters in the WAIST and HIPS LINE variables are taken into account.

Hooray! The pattern is ready! You should now have two pieces of fabric that are the front and back of the skirt.

Beginning of the skirt:
  1. Cut out the future skirt.
  2. Sew the sides of the skirt from the wrong side
  3. We do the same with tucks, that is, we sew them together.
  4. Finish the top and bottom edges of the skirt with a straight knit stitch.
  5. We sew the elastic into a hoop, put it inside the top of the skirt-belt, which we turn to the inside of the skirt and sew with a sewing machine.
  6. We bend the bottom of the skirt by 1.5 - 2 cm and lay a straight line.

Your beautiful new elasticated pencil skirt is ready! Now you can show off that you made it yourself or show master classes to your friends, children or colleagues.

If you still like to do something on the video, then below you can find the video materials.

Video on the topic of the article

Next, we want to show you a video tutorial on making a pencil skirt with an elastic band with your own hands, these videos describe in great detail and show the magical transformation of a piece of fabric into an elegant skirt.

In this step-by-step illustrated master class, we reveal all the secrets of sewing this skirt.

Sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42

Back length 60 cm

Important!

This skirt is cut and sewn from a very thin, translucent knitted fabric in two layers. With a denser, opaque knitted fabric, cut out the details of the skirt in one layer (without folds along the lower sections). Along the lower sections of the skirt parts, indicated on the pattern sheet by dotted lines, draw hem allowances 4 cm wide. Turn the hem allowances on the bottom of the front panels of the skirt and stitch. At the end, turn the hem allowance on the bottom of the back panel of the skirt to the wrong side and stitch with a double needle.

You will need:

  • knitted fabric 130 cm wide: 2.60 m for all sizes;
  • elastic tape 3.5 cm wide: size 34 - 0.35 m, sizes 36.38 - 0.40 m, sizes 40, 42 - 0.45 m;
  • interlining G 785 0.20 m wide 90 cm;
  • sewing threads
Recommended fabrics: Only very stretchy knitted or crocheted fabrics.

skirt pattern

Pattern:

A translucent skirt with an original weave in front is made of the finest jersey in two ...


Glue the sheets of paper pattern and cut out the details of the required size along the corresponding contour lines, paying attention to the markings and inscriptions. If you want to keep the pattern, transfer the details to tracing paper and cut it out. the cutting process can be greatly simplified if, to transfer the details of the pattern 21, 22 and 23, the silk paper is folded in half and placed alternately on the details of the paper pattern, aligning the fold of the paper with the fold line of the part (lower edge).

Layout plan

Knitted fabric 130 cm wide

Lay out the knitted fabric in one layer with the right side up.

Cutting:

Layout plans show the most rational way to arrange the details of the pattern on the knitted fabric. Pay attention to the fact that the arrow of the direction of the shared thread on the details of the paper pattern is parallel to the edge / fold of the knitted fabric.

From knitted fabric:

21 Right front panel with fold 1x
22 Left front panel with fold 1x
23 The back panel of the skirt with a fold 1x
24 Front facing top cut 1x

Allowances:

Mark the allowances on the fabric around the details of the paper pattern using a ruler and tailor's chalk: there is no allowance for the upper cut of the back panel of the skirt, 1 cm for the remaining seams and cuts. Cut out the details along these lines.

Pad:

See details in the layout plan highlighted in gray. Iron the gasket to the wrong side of the facing of the upper cut.

Seam lines and markings:

Pin the piece of paper pattern 24 again to the facing of the upper cut duplicated with a gasket.

The contours of the pattern details and markings (lines of seams and bottom), except for the arrow of the direction of the shared thread, on the outer halves of the skirt panels - the halves of the pattern details, indicated on the layout plan by solid lines, - transfer to the wrong side of the cut details using a gear wheel (cutter) and copy paper burda. The lines of folds and folds, the stitching line for the drawstring, as well as the cross marks, are transferred to the front side with large running stitches. Also, transfer all control marks to the details of the cut, it is best to do this with the help of small self-adhesive labels.

When basting and stitching, fold the details of the cut with the front side inward.

Details of the cut from knitted fabrics are ground with a special elastic stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch to maintain the elasticity of the seams. Bartack at the beginning and end of each seam.

Double skirt panels

Fold the back panel of the skirt along the fold line (bottom edge) with the wrong side inward. Sweep the side and top cuts. Lay a line along the fold.

Fold the right and left front panels of the skirt, respectively, along the fold lines (lower edges) with the right side inward.

On the right front panel of the skirt, sew the middle sections from the bottom to the corner (control mark 1), as well as the lateral upper section from the transverse mark to the corner, control mark 5. On the left front panel of the skirt, sew the middle sections from the bottom to the transverse mark. Notch the seam allowances, respectively, at the transverse mark close to the last stitch of the seam.

Cut seam allowances close to the seams, on the lower corners - obliquely. Turn the front panels of the skirt inside out. Iron the edges.

Sweep open cuts. On the right front panel of the skirt, the lines of folds, as well as on both front panels of the skirt, transfer the transverse marks using a gear wheel (cutter) and burda carbon paper to the inner halves of the skirt panels (front side).

Right front skirt

On the right front panel of the skirt, lay the gathering lines at a distance of 7 mm from the cuts, respectively, with large stitches: from the control mark 3 to the control mark 5, from the control mark 2 to the middle edge of the right panel (control mark 1) and along the cut above the fold line . At a distance of 5 mm from these lines, lay one more line.

Do not tighten the sections of the panel on the gathering threads yet.

Folds

Fold the right front panel of the skirt, aligning the lines of the folds (with the outer half of the skirt panel inward).

Stitch the folds, respectively, from the transverse marks to the arrow marks. Stitch at the beginning and end of the stitches. Lay the folds in the direction of the arrow marks.

weave

On the right front panel of the skirt, turn the cut between the folds down and pin. Gather the cut between the control marks 3 and 5 on the lower threads of the lines to a length of 7 cm, between the control mark 2 and the middle edge (control mark 1) - up to a length of 12 cm. Tie the threads. Distribute assemblies evenly.

Left front skirt

Place the left front panel of the skirt with the inside on the outer side of the right front panel of the skirt, aligning the transverse marks 2 and the transverse mark 1 with the middle edge of the right front panel of the skirt.

Sweep the sections of the front panels of the skirt between the transverse marks 1 and 2.

Turn the upper end of the left front panel of the skirt to the front side. Cut off the slices by aligning the control marks 4, as well as the transverse marks 2 and 3. Stitch the slices from the transverse mark 3 to the side cut (control mark 4) with allowances 1 cm wide. The area between the fold and the transverse mark 3 remains open (arrow). Through this "loop" the remaining open end of the right front panel of the skirt will later be pulled.

Turn the upper end of the right front panel of the skirt down, pin the gathered cut, aligning the cleanly turned edge with the control mark 5, as well as the transverse marks 3. Stitch the right front panel of the skirt with an allowance 1 cm wide, starting the line exactly at the marked seam line near the control mark 3 ("loop" remains open).

From the short section of the right front panel of the skirt turned down and pinned down (the cut at the fold line), remove the pins. Gather the cut to a length of 2 cm. Turn the upper sections of the front panels of the skirt up again, while gathering the left front panel of the skirt in your hand.

Draw the free end of the right front panel of the skirt around the gathered left panel of the skirt and pull it through the “loop” (the open section of the seam - see also Figure 6) to the inside of the skirt.

From the inside of the skirt, stitch the open section of the transverse seam, securing the stretched end of the right front panel of the skirt. Overcast seam allowances together and turn up.

Chip the cleanly turned edges of the front panels of the skirt, aligning the upper sections.

Top edge of the skirt

Pin the facing of the upper section of the skirt to the upper section of the front panel of the skirt with the right side to the front side. Stitch. Trim seam allowances close to the seam.

In the corner, cut the seam allowance close to the stitches of the line. Turn the facing up to the stitching seam allowances and stitch to the seam allowances close to the seam. Turn the facing to the wrong side, iron the upper edge of the front panel of the skirt.

Side seams

Fold the front panel of the skirt with the back panel of the skirt with the outer sides. Peel off the side sections, aligning the upper edge of the front panel of the skirt with the fold line of the back panel of the skirt and the lower edges of the panels of the skirt. Run side seams with allowances 1 cm wide. Overcast the allowances of each seam together and iron on the back of the skirt. Sew the bottom ends of the side seam allowances.

drawstring

Unscrew the upper section of the back panel of the skirt along the fold line to the wrong side and stitch for a drawstring to a width of 4 cm. Insert the elastic tape into the drawstring, pin the ends of the tape along the side seams with safety pins. Try on the skirt and adjust the length of the elastic band. Stitch the ends of the elastic band. Laying on the front side of the line exactly in the side seams. Cut the ends of the tape at a distance of 5 mm from the seams.