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How to make a lookout. Do-it-yourself observation hole. Materials for waterproofing the inspection pit












Today we will talk about how to make a viewing hole in the garage. For many motorists, this is a necessary element of a garage building, because many of us are trying to save money, which is why some preventive work related to the car is carried out on our own. We must immediately make a reservation that with the seeming simplicity of the design of the inspection pit, it is not so easy to build it. Therefore, most garage owners prefer to invite experienced craftsmen to get a guaranteed high quality end result. But in order for the guarantee to be one hundred percent, you yourself need to know the technology for building a garage pit. Therefore, read the article, remember everything, and this will be a guarantee that the masters will not deceive you.

viewing hole in the garage

Planning the construction of a viewing hole

There is two situations when building a hole in the garage:

    in a newly erected building;

    already in operation.

The first option is simpler, because nothing prevents digging the soil to the size of the intended structure. To do this, you can even use the services of an excavator, thereby speeding up the process itself and moving away from labor-intensive earthworks.

But both situations happen often, so we will deal with them separately. But first, let's talk about the size of the pit in the garage under the car.

Inspection hole dimensions

The basis of dimensional indicators is the automobile base, or rather, the distance between the wheels of your car, both in width and in length. But there are also minimum width parameters, which are often taken as a basis. This is 80-85 cm. As for the length, 1 m is added to the length of the car. Although we must pay tribute that for the convenience of using the inspection pit, many do not stop at this size, so in garages you can find pits up to 6 m long.

Sketch showing the minimum width of the inspection hole

Now with depth. It is clear that the growth of the owner of the garage and should be this size. At the same time, he must reach with his hands any part or assembly on the machine. But experts recommend deepening the viewing hole to 2 m. And even if a person is small, you can always install a stand or flooring at the bottom. True, this is not always possible. Much will depend on the level of groundwater flow. If it is high, for example, 1.2-1.5 m, then you can forget about the pit.

These were dimensions. Now about the size of the building. For obvious reasons, the pit itself under the pit is dug out more. This is due to the fact that in order to form the structure itself, it is necessary to equip the structure. And for this, it is necessary to lay a pillow with waterproofing on the bottom and fill it with a screed. The walls are assembled from blocks or bricks or poured into a formwork as a monolithic structure. For all these materials, space is required without taking into account the selected dimensions of the observation structure.

Therefore, a pit is dug with a width equal to the width of the viewing hole, plus the thickness of the walls, plus 30 cm. The length is calculated in the same way. Depth is the thickness of the pillow, the thickness of the screed and the waterproofing layer, plus 1.8-2.0 m.

Sketch of a viewing hole with all dimensions

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular - from the construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Inspection pit construction technology

We will not tell you how to build a garage with a pit that is being built. It's not that hard. Let's talk about how to make a viewing hole in an already operated garage.

Marking the pit inside the garage

Usually the floor in the garage is thick concrete screed, in which a reinforcing frame in the form of a lattice of steel reinforcement is laid. Therefore, according to the marking, it is necessary to gouge the concrete and cut off the reinforcement along the perimeter of the pit.

A sand and gravel pad and soil are removed from the resulting opening with shovels. The walls and bottom of the pit are leveled with shovels to the maximum. This is a laborious job that can take up to two days. Although much will depend on the composition of the soil under the building and the activity of the craftsmen. There is one advantage when building a viewing hole in an operated garage. The construction site is under a canopy, so rain in this case is not a hindrance.

Digging a pit (excavation)

Pit ventilation

The mistake is made by those who do not think about ventilation system. But its purpose is not only to remove moist air. Musty smells from oily rags, gasoline will fill a small space quickly, gradually moving into the garage itself. So it is better to spend a little time and money, but to build ventilation.

Essentially this plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, which is taken out of the building. To do this, they dig a horizontal trench, which is removed either under the foundation or through the wall. Sand is poured into it and a pipe is laid with a conclusion above the roof of the garage. The lower end should be at the bottom of the hole.

Ventilation pipe inside the inspection hole

Arrangement of a viewing hole

So, let's move on to the main work related to the construction of the pit itself. Prepare the bottom first:

    fall asleep layer of sand 15-20 cm thick rammed with watering.

    Fall asleep rubble medium or fine fraction with a thickness of 10 cm, which is also rammed.

    Held waterproofing the entire pit: floor and walls.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of designing and building garages and other "small architectural forms" for a country house. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Waterproofing

Waterproofing the inspection hole in the garage is a crucial stage. So understand this process.

Roll material is used for waterproofing works. It can be a polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.2 mm, laid with a sleeve. To do this, use roofing material or modern waterproofing materials based on bitumen.

Waterproofing strips are laid in strips from wall to wall overlapping relative to each other with an offset of 10-15 cm. Bituminous products in overlapping areas are fastened with bituminous mastic. The polyethylene film is fastened with self-adhesive tapes. The photo below just shows the option with polyethylene. Please note that the edges of the waterproofing lead outside the pit and are pressed with a load.

Waterproofing the inspection hole in the garage with a plastic film

Formation of the floor and walls

The prepared bottom is poured with a screed 3-7 cm thick. No reinforcing frame should be laid in it, because the structure is not subjected to loads, except for the weight of a person. Therefore, the main attention is the construction of the walls.

As mentioned above, there are two options:

    use bricks or blocks;

    erect a monolithic structure.

In the first case, block wall material is laid along the perimeter of the prepared excavation, laying masonry elements with a band. That is, with an offset of half a block or brick. For bonding, a conventional masonry mortar with a 1: 2 formula (cement-sand) is used.

Pit made of blocks or bricks

If a monolithic structure is being built, then formwork is assembled for this. It is made from boards, slabs or sheets of even and durable materials. For example, from a metal sheet or corrugated board, plywood or OSB boards.

The main task is to assemble the formwork so that it does not disperse under the action of a sufficiently large weight of poured concrete. If the soil under the garage is clayey, then the formwork is mounted as one layer of fences from the outside. The wall of the pit covered with waterproofing will be able to easily withstand any load. If the soil is sandy, loose and fragile, then the formwork is installed in two layers, leaving space between them for pouring the concrete solution.

Concrete is poured at one time, without leaving the next day. A break can be between fillings, but not more than 4 hours. Look at the photo, this is what the formwork looks like with concrete mortar poured into it.

Observation pit, like a monolithic concrete structure

Recommended in concrete walls lay a reinforcing frame in the form of a lattice of reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm. Lattices are installed along the walls so that they are in the middle of the formwork space. On adjacent walls, the frames are interconnected with a knitting wire.

A week after pouring the concrete solution, the formwork is removed. But concrete will gain its strength only after 28 days. After that, you need to prime the surface of the structure and think over the type of finish. The best option- ceramic tile. She washes well. But you can paint the pit, plaster or brick it. As for the pit made of bricks or blocks, it must be plastered, then whitewashed or tiled.

In principle, we can assume that the construction of a viewing hole in the garage is completed. It should be added that often a restrictive structure is laid along the perimeter of the structure flush with the floor. This is a steel corner, welded in the form of a rectangle, equal to the size of the viewing hole. It is attached to pins or studs laid in the process of pouring concrete.

plastic models

Today, manufacturers of products made of polymeric and plastic materials offer ready-made plastic pits for the garage. We must pay tribute to this type of product, which simplified the construction of inspection pits. There are more and more offers on the market every year. There is not only a wide range of sizes, but also a variety of raw materials, and prices vary significantly.

For the finished pit, there is no need to carry out waterproofing. The main thing is to lay a good sand cushion and fill the space between the walls of the excavated recess and the plastic product itself with sand.

Video description

In order for you to understand what we are talking about, we suggest watching a video that describes one of the models on the market.

Video description

About the errors of arranging a pit in the garage - the following video:

Conclusion on the topic

So, we have analyzed the topic - a viewing hole in the garage (dimensions and construction rules). How complicated the whole construction process is, you can judge. But keep in mind that the exact dimensions of the pit are the key to success. They made the hole smaller - it will be inconvenient to be in it. They made more, especially in width, then there is a possibility that the car simply cannot fit on it.

By making a viewing hole in your garage, you will greatly expand your options regarding self repair and maintenance of your car. Moreover, contrary to popular belief, repairing a car standing in a pit is often much more convenient than using a lift.
In addition, to build a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands, you do not need to purchase expensive equipment. Although when mixing cement mortar, for example, it is much more convenient to use a mixer, but, firstly, it is not so expensive, and, secondly, all work can be done manually.
But about everything - in order, and, first of all, it is necessary to determine optimal dimensions inspection hole in the garage.
And yet - we will proceed from the fact that the garage has already been built, that is, the use of earthmoving equipment, which would greatly simplify the task of building an inspection pit, is excluded.

Each car owner determines all sizes of the inspection hole independently


To begin with, everything that will be said below refers to an ordinary motorist who owns a car and an ordinary garage. Owners of freight and passenger vehicles, as a rule, already have their own service stations, or use the paid services of specialized car services equipped with everything necessary. Therefore, all recommendations will relate to the size of the inspection hole for a car.
You will have to do everything yourself, including the calculation of the dimensions of the pit, while taking into account the dimensions of the garage and the car, therefore, without indicating the exact dimensions, we will limit ourselves to recommendations, taking into account which you will independently make the necessary calculations.
First of all, decide on the location of the pit. The car put on it for repair should not interfere with the closing of the gate, rest against the workbench. The entrance to the pit itself must be accessible, and at a minimum, the driver's door must open freely.
Perhaps, in order to comply with these conditions, it will be necessary to redevelop the garage - move the workbench, remove unnecessary items, etc.

Pit Width

First of all, you will need to measure the distances between the inner surfaces of the wheels. But calculate the distance from the edges of the wheels to the edges of the pit in such a way that it is convenient to lift the car with a jack. It is no secret that the bottoms and sills of modern cars quickly lose their rigidity, which makes it difficult to lift them with a jack.
Therefore, whenever possible, when calculating the offset, consider possible options jacking up the car in such a way that the jack can be used either by placing it on the edge of the pit, or on a solid board laid across it.
In addition, consider the possibility that when changing cars, it will have a smaller track width.
Usually the width of the pit is 80 cm, but, again, you can slightly adjust this value.

Pit depth

Depth is usually done "in height" of a person. This allows you to practice repair work without holding the back in a “crooked” position for a long time, which is very tiring. If necessary, during repairs of nodes located higher, you can use a pre-prepared stable stand.

How to dig a viewing hole in the garage

Often you have to dig a viewing hole manually


The dimensions of the pit for the inspection hole are determined by the material from which you decide to make its floor and walls.
In addition, it is necessary to ensure that the outer walls of the pit are backfilled with sand, clay or granulated slag, and for pouring the floor (or laying it out of brick), it is imperative to prepare the bottom of the pit, first filling it with coarse gravel or slag, and then with several layers of compacted sand. If you plan to equip the inspection pit with ventilation, while digging the pit, take care of providing a place for installing ventilation pipes.
The start of digging can be complicated by the need to remove the garage floor covering (to match the size of the pit).
The most difficult in this case seems to be the removal of the concrete floor - you will need both a jackhammer (or a professional puncher) and a "grinder" for cutting reinforcement.
The speed of the digging itself, first of all, depends on the properties of the soil.
But before proceeding to the description various ways construction of pits, consider the greatest difficulty that can become a hindrance - this is a high level of groundwater.

Inspection hole in the garage with groundwater

Groundwater in the inspection hole

The high level of groundwater is a serious obstacle to the construction of a viewing hole.
We bring to your attention ways to cope with the problem, developed by the people:

  • the pit is made like an iron box welded from sheet metal 5 mm thick and “anchored” by perpendicularly welded channels;
  • the same option, but with the output drainage pipe welded from below. In this case, the floor can be made double by making the flooring from the boards above the level of the pipe;
  • make an inspection pit of concrete with a W6 water resistance mark, providing additional waterproofing of the inspection pit with the highest quality materials;
  • make the so-called "pit" from the outside, equipping it with a drainage pump;
  • - equip the pit with a drainage pump that turns on automatically - from a float switch.

Observation pit made of concrete and other materials

Filling the inspection hole with concrete


The pouring should also be carried out in such a way that the concrete layer completely covers the reinforcement.

Construction begins with pouring the floor. First, it must be covered with rubble, and then with moistened sand. The total thickness of the bedding should be about 20 cm, and the sand must be carefully compacted.
Waterproofing the inspection pit is best done immediately, before pouring the floor, so that it protects the entire "concrete box". To do this, it is laid over the entire volume of the pit and fixed at the top - for which the material (polyethylene, roofing material or a more “progressive” coating) is purchased and laid with a margin - in order to be able to press it from above along the perimeter of the pit.
Next, you should make the reinforcement of the floor of the inspection hole, either using a ready-made reinforcing mesh, or tying it yourself. The reinforcement must be placed on supports 5-8 cm thick - otherwise, after pouring, it will be lying on the bedding and will not play its strengthening role. Pouring should also be carried out in such a way that the concrete layer completely covers the reinforcement.
Concrete is easily leveled with a tool representing a board fixed at an angle on a handle.
Before starting subsequent work, the concrete floor must “stand”, that is, dry completely. Provided that the work is carried out in summer time, it will take about 5-7 days. In hot weather, it is best to cover it with a dense synthetic fabric and periodically water it for the first two days - this way you can avoid the formation of microcracks and achieve maximum screed strength.

Walls

Brickwork of the walls of the viewing hole

Your further actions depend on what material you will build the walls of the inspection pit from.
The most common options:

  • observation pit made of cinder blocks;
  • observation pit made of bricks.

If you decide to make the walls of the pit out of concrete, then you need to take care of the material for the formwork (and, of course, for the reinforcement). In addition, you can make the reinforcement of the viewing hole immediately in its entire size - this way you will achieve greater strength. But you should take into account a few nuances:

  • formwork material (OSB, plywood) must have sufficient strength. For reference, builders use plywood 18-20 mm thick when erecting reinforced concrete monolithic structures. However, to fill a viewing hole with a smaller wall thickness, you can use 10 mm plywood by placing spacers between inner walls no less than half a meter;
  • it is desirable to fill the walls "in steps" - starting from the bottom, in 3-4 steps. So, without a building vibrator, you will achieve maximum filling of the space between the formwork sheets with mortar;
  • constantly make sure that the waterproofing fits snugly against the formwork sheets (from the side of concrete) - this way you will ensure its best protection and eliminate possible leakage of the solution - why waste building materials in vain;
  • during the filling of the next “stage”, moisten the previous one with water - for better adhesion and to avoid cracks and leaks;
  • along the length of the pit, the formwork panels for the inspection pit can be pulled together with threaded rods.

When erecting walls of a pit from cinder blocks or bricks, the main thing is to control their size and horizontality with the help of building level. In terms of waterproofing and other quality requirements, their construction is not so difficult. It can only be recommended to reinforce the wall through 2-3 layers, laying reinforcement between the layers.

Equipment


Ventilation

For the construction of ventilation, it is enough to use plumbing PVC pipes. To ensure their “insertion” into the inspection pit, it is enough to leave the holes necessary in size when pouring walls with concrete or laying bricks. For example, when pouring concrete, insert wood trimmings of the appropriate diameter. The height of the supply pipe is recommended to be done at a distance of 15 cm from the floor, and the hood - at a distance of 25 cm from the top edge.
Many car owners (and owners of small car services) do not ventilate at all. In order for the floor in the pit to be clean, they simply cover it with sawdust, which also greatly contributes to its cleanliness and dryness.

Lighting

For lighting, it is strictly forbidden to use a 220-volt network, and this is true - in the process of car repair, you can inadvertently "drive" into the lighting device with a metal tool, which can end badly for the master. But also complicate life by planning the installation of stationary lighting fixtures, is also unreasonable.
It is enough to bring out under the floor (when building a pit) several sockets from a 12-36 volt transformer and make power sources safe for life in different places (consistent with your experience). You can also make metal embedded plates for magnetic lamps.

Staircase to the viewing hole

The ladder, as practice shows, is best made of wood - when repairing a car, technical fluids often get on it, and with the help of sawdust and rags wooden staircase becomes “safe”, i.e. non-slip.

Than to close

As practice shows, cutting boards of 25-30 mm are best suited for this purpose. But the most creative people connect these boards with a cable, which allows you to roll up the entire flooring, like a rug.
However, if the pit is constantly "in operation", why close it?

An inspection hole in the garage helps out many motorists, with the help of which you can carry out minor repairs and maintenance, make a detailed inspection of the lower part of the car, and diagnose the chassis. But in order to properly make a hole, it is necessary to fulfill certain conditions, to follow a certain order of work.

If the inspection pit (SP) is not done according to the rules, it will be inconvenient to use, it can be flooded with water, and it is unlikely to last long. In the article we will consider what criteria should be followed when creating a SA, the procedure, necessary materials, tool, existing construction technology.

Where to start making a viewing hole

Any structure always begins with calculations, before proceeding with digging a pit, it is necessary to determine in advance:

  • dimensions;
  • the place where the pit will be located;
  • materials used (brick or concrete).

It should be said that it is easier to make a SA when there is no garage, and it is only in the project, especially in cases where ground water are located at a depth higher underground than 2.5 m, since in this case drainage works. If the water runs too high under the finished garage, you may have to abandon the viewing hole, since drainage will be very problematic.

So let's start with the dimensions:

  • length - usually taken about one meter more than a standard car. If the garage is for repair and maintenance cars, a typical size of 4.5 m is implied, which means that the length of the pit should be approximately 5.5 meters;
  • width - should not be too small, it is necessary that an adult can fit comfortably in the SA, it cannot be wide, otherwise not every passenger car will be able to drive into the pit without the risk of falling down, having left the track. Usually the width is taken 0.75-0.8 m, this is the most typical size;
  • depth - calculated taking into account the height of an adult male (170-180 cm) plus a margin for convenient inspection and repair (15-20 cm), a typical pit depth is 1.85-2.00 m.

In general, builders always try to dig a little deeper - to reduce the depth quite easily with the help of stands, laying an additional layer of material at the bottom. But it is difficult to deepen the pit, since it is necessary to destroy the lower layer, re-lay out the floor, carry out hydro and thermal insulation.

With your own hands, you can make a pit of various designs:

  • ordinary, with a floor and reinforced walls;
  • with niches in which it will be possible to lay out the tool, small parts removed from the machine;
  • with a cellar for economic or domestic needs.

The pit is always dug with a margin not only in depth, but also in width and height, since it is necessary to expect that all surfaces will be reinforced with concrete or brick, waterproofing will have to be done, in ideal It would be nice to provide for thermal insulation.

How to make a floor in a garage pit

Having made a drawing of a hole, you can start digging it, but if a concrete floor has already been laid out in the garage, it will have to be cut and partially removed, for this you will need a circular saw with stone discs, a jackhammer, in extreme cases, you can use a perforator with a chisel. The future pit is marked with chalk, a corner is used to create straight lines.

When digging a hole of the required size, we use a building indicator or a plumb line, it is necessary that the walls are even, and the earth should be taken out immediately outside the garage. Then we are closely engaged in the floor in the pit of the garage, at the bottom we create a pillow support:

  • lay out an even layer of rubble (approximately 5-10 cm thick);
  • ramming, pouring a layer of sand;
  • above " layered cake» we cover with clay, we lay roofing material;
  • for strength, we place reinforcement on top;
  • pour the resulting structure with concrete mortar, let it dry.

Concrete can be made from various components and in different proportions, the most classic composition of the mixture is three parts building sand and one part dry cement. A layer of waterproofing is laid out on top of the concrete, all sorts of options are also possible here, there are several recipes. After the waterproofing layer, it will not be superfluous to take care of thermal insulation; sheet foam is usually used for this purpose. Then the whole structure is re-poured with concrete (layer 15-20 mm), after laying it is necessary that the solution is thoroughly dry.

Laying out the walls of the pit

When forming the side surfaces of the SA, clay is applied to the walls with the first layer, then a polyethylene film is fixed on it, and roofing material is spread. As in the version with the floor, a waterproofing coating is also provided here, the material can be single-layer or multi-layer polymer plates, bitumen, liquid rubber, mineral mixtures and so on. If thermal insulation is needed, we lay foam, it is important to carefully process all joints and seams during hydro- and thermal insulation, it is necessary to ensure tightness. When laying walls with concrete, it is necessary:

  • make formwork, it is made of wooden blocks, plywood or edged boards;
  • before pouring, reinforce with a steel mesh with a rod diameter of 10-12 mm;
  • pour the concrete solution, after it has completely dried, remove the formwork;
  • if necessary, make niches in the walls.

If lighting is provided in the pit, care must be taken to lay internal wiring, the wires should be hidden in the corrugation, and they are usually fixed to a reinforced mesh before pouring with concrete (for example, with plastic ties). The solution is not poured all at once, but in several stages from the bottom up in sections of 0.3-0.4 m, each layer must be allowed to dry (concreting can take from two to three days). Also, the walls can be laid out of brick, but here a slightly different technology is already required.

How to lay out the walls in a brick pit

Before laying out the walls with bricks, just as when working with concrete, the side surfaces are first smeared with red clay, a plastic film, roofing felt, hydro- and heat-insulating layer are laid. Laying is carried out subject to the following conditions:

  • bricks are placed in a checkerboard pattern;
  • masonry is carried out in one layer along the width of the brick;
  • the seams are carefully rubbed, and the corners are made in a reliable bundle;
  • the upper brick row should protrude above the surface of the structure by about 5-10 cm. This is done so that the car cannot fall into the pit, and also so that the tool does not slip into it.

When laying out a brick pit, one must not forget about niches; for convenience, formwork can be built (but not necessary). Immediately after the work is done, it is impossible to use the pit, it is necessary to wait about five days for the mortar to set well and dry out, and the masonry to settle.

How to properly waterproof a pit in a garage

Waterproofing protection is a very important component of the inspection hole, especially when the groundwater runs high enough in the ground. At high humidity:

  • the pit can be heated by water;
  • the bottom of the car, constantly located on the SA, begins to rust;
  • with insufficiently high-quality insulation, the excavated pit gradually collapses and becomes unusable.

In order for the inspection pit to serve for a long time, it is necessary to make the waterproofing of the pit in the garage very high quality, to use materials that could provide waterproof protection for many years. As waterproofing materials are usually used:

  • various types of roofing materials;
  • bituminous mixture (designed for 10-15 years of building service);
  • polymer film (geotextile, can serve for more than a dozen years);
  • mineral dry mixes, diluted with water before direct use;
  • latex-based liquid rubber, its service life is from 20 years or more;
  • a mixture of petroleum products with liquid clay (for the initial treatment of walls and floors).

If groundwater passes high enough, even high-quality waterproofing does not guarantee reliable protection against moisture, only a well-executed one will help here. drainage system with water diversion into a natural or artificial reservoir.

Construction of a pit in the garage according to all the rules

To competently make a hole in accordance with all the rules, it is not enough just to dig a foundation pit, strengthen the walls and floor, it is also necessary:

  • install natural and forced ventilation;
  • install electric lights;
  • build a shelter (mortgage frame), it will protect against accidental falling into a pit;
  • think over the descent system (build a removable ladder or lay steps in the pit).

An even more “advanced” option is to make a cellar in a viewing hole, in which case it will be possible to store pickles for the winter, fresh vegetables in the garage.

How to make a vegetable pit in the garage

If there is already an inspection hole in the garage, the cellar is made separately, at the other end of the room or next to it, usually it is located at a small distance from the wall, about half a meter, and unlike the CL, it has slightly different dimensions:

  • length - 2.5-3 m;
  • width - 2-2.5 m;
  • depth - about 1.7 m.

The dimensions of the cellar may differ from the above dimensions, it all depends on the size of the garage itself. In this building, a hermetic manhole cover, a ladder (it is better to make it from wood) must be provided. The cellar should include:

  • moisture protection;
  • ventilation;
  • sleepy sinus.

The vegetable pit is supplemented with electricity and thermal insulation at will; before construction, it is important to foresee two points:

  • you need to make sure that power wires do not pass under the future cellar, there is no water supply or gas pipeline;
  • groundwater must pass below the foundation level of the proposed vegetable pit.

As in the case of creating a SA for the cellar, we also first dig a foundation pit, then:

  • sprinkle on the bottom and tamp a layer of rubble, about 10-12 cm;
  • we lay the next layer - building sand (about 15 cm), careful tamping is also required here;
  • we fill the bottom of the pit with bitumen or other similar composition, if waterproofing is necessary, roofing material is installed (other similar material can also be used);
  • we fill it with concrete, for structural strength it is desirable to reinforce it;
  • we give the concrete mortar a good grip and dry, then we strengthen the walls - we fill it with concrete or lay it out with bricks (the latter option is most preferable).

The standard wall thickness is one and a half bricks; for strength and better waterproofing, we coat the masonry with bituminous mortar. The walls of the pit must be very strong, because the car can be placed anywhere in the garage, and it is undesirable to leave it for storage in a viewing hole.

The ceiling in the cellar is made in the form of a vault, in order to hold the ceiling bricks during construction, they are laid out on a plank template. top cellars can be made of concrete, as long as it is strong, and the hole is usually made in the middle. In a vegetable pit, the ceiling is often insulated, foam and expanded clay are used as materials to fix the insulation layer, it is poured with hot bitumen. Also, glass wool, sawdust with cement are used for insulation, thermal insulation can not be used in mild and warm climates.

In the cellar, it is necessary to make shelves for food supplies, containers for storing vegetables. Shelves are usually made of boards and beams, the ventilation of the room is mainly provided by natural ventilation. Forced ventilation provides more efficient air circulation, but also requires more significant financial costs. Usually, an electric fan is used for forced exhaust, it is mounted directly in the ventilation pipe.

Pit thermal insulation

In a fairly cold climate, thermal insulation in the garage is of considerable importance, the addition of a thermal insulation layer allows you to save on heating, provide more comfortable temperature in room. As thermal insulation material mainly used extruded foam, polystyrene, also helps to keep warm expanded clay pillow.

Typically, the foam is laid on top of the vapor barrier film, then poured with concrete. Expanded clay is laid on the bottom of the inspection hole, playing the role of not only a heater, but also a stabilizer of the floor of the building.

The location of the cellar and pit for the car

The inspection hole in the garage can have a different location, placed both in the center and closer to the edge. Being in the center is convenient if the garage is narrow enough, and there are no or a minimum of workbenches, tables, other furniture, and there is no separate room. When a small auto repair shop is organized in garage conditions, it is more convenient to move the pit to one edge, but so that a car can safely and freely enter it. The cellar can be located anywhere, of course, if there is no viewing hole in the garage. When a pit is available, it is advisable to place the cellar at the end of the garage room, behind the SA.

Garage drainage system

A water drainage system is necessary in case of a high level of groundwater, high soil moisture. Drainage can be made according to various schemes, but there are basic rules for its construction:

  • the drainage trench is dug deep to the level of the foundation of the pit;
  • ditches should be located outside the garage, somewhere at a distance of half a meter from the building along its perimeter;
  • a drainage well is required for drainage;
  • drainage pipes are a single closed system with water drainage.

To prevent damage to the drainage system, a sand and gravel cushion is laid from below in the trench with a layer of about 10 cm, then the pipeline is covered with a geotextile film. A ravine can serve as a drainage well, if there are no natural recesses near the garage, any suitable container must be used, observing the conditions:

  • the well should be located lower than 20 cm from the level of the lowest point of the pipeline;
  • the outlet pipe of the drainage system must be suitable for the tank;
  • mainly used as water storage plastic container, the iron vessel is prone to rust, will fail much faster and will not be able to work for its intended purpose.

A sand and gravel cushion is also made on top of the drainage pipes, the soil should be compacted over the drainage carefully, trying not to damage the pipeline, water from the garage should be drained to a distance of at least 5 meters.

Pit lighting

Lamps in the inspection pit provide comfortable working conditions, as lighting devices are usually used:

  • stationary lamps in plafonds, designed for a voltage of 36 or 220 volts;
  • carrying, it is better if it is with a long wire;
  • low-power 12-volt lamps;
  • LED lights;
  • Rechargeable LED lamps.

36-volt lighting fixtures are the most popular auto repair fixtures, usually waterproof and safe to use. Quite often, 220 Volt lamps are also installed in the garage, since they do not require a step-down transformer, but here you have to take care of reliable grounding, and it is necessary to work with such lamps, observing safety precautions.

Rechargeable lighting devices are quite expensive, difficult to repair, but sometimes you can’t do without them, for example, if there is no stationary power in the garage. As an option, you can arrange the transfer by taking a voltage of 12 V from a car battery, but in this case the light will be rather dim.

Pit closing

The cover covering the pit can be made of various materials:

  • welded metal bars;
  • edged board;
  • plastic.

It can also be made from composite materials. The two most important qualities of a pit shelter are strength and light weight, the design should be easy to move away and support the weight of a person. If the car is often or for a long time left in the pit, it is advisable to make a tight cover, for example, from a forty board / bars, in this case, moisture will practically not settle on the bottom of the car.

The wooden shield should be sanded, impregnated with varnish, and the metal sanded and painted, such a frame will last a long time, will not rust or rot. For ease of removal and installation, the cover should be supplemented with one or two handles; a folding mechanism can also be provided in the design.

Pit ventilation in the garage

The type of ventilation largely depends on the size of the garage, for large enough garage structures you can limit yourself to natural ventilation, for small rooms forced ventilation is necessary. The exhaust hole is almost always made from above, near the ceiling, in the room it is closed with a metal or plastic grill, forced ventilation installed below, no higher than 0.5 m from the floor.

They try to make an exhaust hole for natural ventilation on the leeward side, usually it is protected from rain and snow from the outside by a garage roof. Power for the electric fan is taken from the local power supply or battery, the direction of movement of the blades is selected empirically.

Pit making tools

The number of tools used when digging a viewing hole depends on the complexity of the installation, at least you will need:

  • measuring tape;
  • chalk for marking;
  • bayonet / shovels;
  • containers for diluting solutions (buckets, barrels);
  • building level or plumb;
  • pick;
  • electric drill;
  • a hammer;
  • large ruler, measuring corner;
  • surface treatment materials - sandpaper, floats, etc.

If you need to heat up the bitumen, you will need gas-burner, cook cement mortar easier and faster with a concrete mixer. Also additionally most often required:

  • welding machine;
  • angle grinder;
  • knife or scissors for cutting materials;
  • bitumen roller.

If you have to dismantle the concrete floor, you can not do without a concrete cutter, a jackhammer or a powerful puncher. When cutting a concrete slab, it should be taken into account that steel reinforcement is located under the concrete layer (at a depth of about 50-100 mm), it will have to be cut with a circular saw.

Materials used

Almost any normally equipped inspection pit will require concrete, it can be:

  • cement-sand mortar in the ratio of cement / sand 1:3 or 1:4;
  • a mixture of cement, building sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1/3/4.5 (rough concrete).

Also for the manufacture of walls and floors will need:

  • crushed stone, gravel;
  • expanded clay;
  • slurry;
  • waterproofing materials (roofing material, bituminous mastic and resin);
  • vapor barrier film;
  • steel corner / channel;
  • boards and wooden beams;
  • thermal insulation materials (polystyrene, polypropylene, glass wool, etc.);
  • steel bars or finished reinforced grating;
  • nails;
  • brick (in case of brickwork).

If a drainage system is provided, you will need pvc pipes, connecting parts, possibly a reservoir for a manhole. To give an aesthetic appearance viewing hole outside can be decorated tiles or other decorative materials.

The service life of the SA to a large extent depends on the quality of the materials used, the accuracy of the workers, the thoroughness of the waterproofing, and compliance with all construction rules. A well-made inspection pit will last for more than a dozen years, it will be very useful when carrying out repairs, car maintenance, for example, with its help it is very convenient to change the oil in the engine, gearbox, and repair the chassis.

Before you build inspection hole in the garage with your own hands, let's figure out what it is.

viewing hole- this is the working space of a motorist, which should be as comfortable as possible, allowing you to turn around and stand up to your full height. If these conditions are not met, fixing even a tiny problem will turn into a nightmare, which should not be allowed.

How to make a hole in the garage?
First of all, we must measure the length, width and depth in order to find out inspection hole dimensions in the garage by hand.

Parameter length calculated from the length of the machine. Add one meter to it, it will be optimal space convenient for work.

The second parameter again directly depends on the dimensions. vehicle. On average, this is 75 cm, but professionals use another way to measure the optimal width: you need to measure how far apart the front wheels are from each other. 20 cm is subtracted from the obtained value to be sure that during the drive into the pit, the car won't fail.

IMPORTANT: Before making a hole in the garage, keep in mind that its width must be slightly less than the width of your vehicle, otherwise the car will simply fail.

And finally, the last parameter - depth. It is calculated from the calculation of the growth of the motorist, to which 20 cm is added. The obtained parameters need increase by 30 cm, which will make hydro- and thermal insulation. After the calculation, you can make drawing holes in the garage.

Do-it-yourself inspection hole in the garage: dimensions - photo below:

Construction

Having received the required dimensions, we proceed to construction viewing hole in the garage by hand. Of course, it is much easier to build an inspection pit when the garage has not yet been built, here you need to do this work until the floors are filled with concrete, but even when you are thinking about how to make a garage with a pit with your own hands, this question is quite decide.

Construction works are as follows:

  1. Pit preparation. We mark the land according to the received dimensions. Before digging a hole in the garage, we stock up on shovels and a level. The pit should be the right depth and with a flat bottom.

    2. REFERENCE: How to make a viewing hole in the garage when it is already built? We mark the floor, and then, according to the markup, we cut through the screed using a power tool, after which digging work is already carried out.

  2. Formation of smooth walls. It is also necessary to carefully compact the bottom of the pit.
  3. Arrangement inspection pit in the garage: floors, walls and niches.

We build a hole in the garage with our own hands step by step:

We lay a pillow of crushed stone on the ground, on top of which, by about 5 cm, we pour sand and tamp.

The next layer in this pie is 30 cm clay. A reinforced mesh is already laid on the clay, which becomes the backbone of our construction, strong, reliable, and durable.

Grid is poured concrete. We mix sand with cement, in a ratio of three to one, and fill it with a thickness of 7 cm.

We are waiting for the concrete to harden and only after that, we process the floor solution bituminous mastic . We put the roofing material and glue the joints with bitumen, be sure, hot.

Styrofoam is laid on the roofing material, and then the whole structure is generously poured with concrete, about 15 cm. And again we wait until the concrete dries.

After the concrete has dried, you can proceed to the design of walls and niches:

  1. The walls are smeared with clay, then polyethylene is laid, which is well attached to oily clays.
  2. A layer of roofing material is applied to the film and again, as in the case of the floor, we pass the joints with bitumen.
  3. We repeat the technology of creating the floor, and fasten the foam layer to the walls using any construction adhesive.
  4. The hardest part of the job is formwork erection. The formwork is made of plywood, if you want to get a more durable structure, then from boards, at a distance of 7 cm from the walls.
  5. We carry out reinforcement along the perimeter of the wall and fill it with concrete mortar.

You need to pour concrete in layers, here you need to be guided rule, the quieter you go, the further you'll get. It is necessary to fill the hole in the garage within a few days, every day - 20 cm in height.

When the concrete hardens and you are satisfied with the result, remove formwork We don't need her now. Well, we proceed to the next stage, the creation of niches.

As in the construction of floors and walls, when arranging niches, we use fittings and clay. But here we no longer need concrete, there will be a viewing hole in the garage with our own hands brick with which niches are lined. If you don’t like this option and you are interested in more than laying out a viewing hole in the garage, then use ceramic tiles , it will be more effective.

See how to do do-it-yourself inspection hole in the garage- a photo:

Hydro and thermal insulation

Before you make a hole in the garage, you also need to take care of waterproofing, because humidity is unacceptable in the inspection pit, where, not only do you need to work in comfortable conditions, but it is also important to observe safety precautions when working with electrical appliances of a car.

Today we can choose from a wide range materials:

Polymeric. This is a material with a complex synthetic structure and excellent waterproofing properties. There are two varieties: multilayer and single layer, the former have best qualities and can last much longer, up to fifty years, the latter are cheaper. Polymeric waterproofing is laid on reinforcement with cells of size 10x10.

Be sure to cover the frame geotextile. Polymer plates, if they are with a self-adhesive base, are installed with an overlap of 30 cm, if the memtrans are not self-adhesive, then the overlap is 10 cm. Without fail, the joints between the polymer plates are treated with a special adhesive.

Bituminous. This waterproofing option is represented by several types: rubemast, euroroofing material and ruberoid, each is interesting in its own way, each has its pros and cons.

Installation bitumen insulation, perhaps the simplest, in addition, this material belongs to the category of economical, although its service life is much lower, only 10 years, if the work is done efficiently, the shelf life increases to 15 years, but no more.

Bituminous insulation is applied in a double layer.

Dry mixes. This is one of the modern methods of isolation. It is effective, durable, allows you to eliminate even microscopic cracks in the walls and floor, which increases the service life of the inspection pit. Mixtures diluted with water in the consistency indicated on the package are applied to the concrete layer.

If a dry mixes- This modern way, which, however, is often used as additional insulation supporting another, polymer or bituminous, then mixture of clay with petroleum products- this is the most old way isolation. It is good because it is easy to carry out work and requires minimal financial costs.

The disadvantage of this method is that the refined products toxic, and experts do not recommend working in a pit treated with such a composition for a long time.

IMPORTANT: do not forget to always glue the joints, whether it be polymer material, bituminous or some other. Failure to comply with this condition may result in to the destruction of the entire structure and nullify your work.

thermal insulation is an equally important issue, because in our country warm weather is established only for five months, while the rest of the time - rains, colds and bitter frosts.

At inspection hole in the garage, material can act as a durable, effective insulation polystyrene. positive properties material is the minimum percentage of water absorption, versatility, excellent thermal insulation performance. Minus - fragility, about 10 years.

Finishing touches

As finishing touches, we designate:

  • security (iron grate on the pit);
  • niches;
  • lighting;
  • ventilation.

Security involves the installation of an iron grate on the pit.

Inspection hole in the garage - how to close it? In no case should it be always open. You can think, forget, not see ... the consequences of such inattention are usually deplorable. So it's better trellis during the absence of repair of the inspection hole in the garage.

Niches in the wall are needed in order to store tools in them, so as not to run upstairs every time for pliers or a screwdriver. Niches also serve as room decor, creating an atmosphere indescribable in words, conducive to work.

For lighting it is necessary to conduct wiring, install sockets in the wall. You can, of course, use a portable lamp, but it will not be so convenient and aesthetically pleasing.

Ventilation- one of the main issues in the design of a viewing hole, because it is often necessary to use toxic substances, varnishes, paints, which are unacceptable to breathe in a closed room. Therefore, give the issue of ventilation a significant part of your attention.

In addition, ventilation is needed to eliminate the possibility of creating condensation effect: high humidity can lead to the destruction of the inspection hole and damage to the car, power tools. Ventilation can be built by displaying air outlet 30 cm from the garage floor. And in order to prevent any debris from getting into the ventilation pipe, it is covered with a net.

Now you know how to do inspection hole in the garage with your own hands. Believe me, this is not at all as difficult as it seems, looking at such a voluminous instruction. And, finally, it remains for us to wish you only patience and kindness!

How to build a hole in the garage with your own hands, watch the video:

March 24th, 2016 Admin

Car repair is often associated with an extensive range of works. In some cases, access to components and assemblies is possible only from below, which cannot be done without a lift or viewing hole. The first, due to its high cost and high energy consumption, is used in car services, but the second is quite possible to do in your own garage.

The presence of a pit will greatly facilitate the repair and maintenance of the machine, but to make it, you will have to work hard. Today we will tell you about how you can independently equip a viewing hole.

How to make a viewing hole in the garage

First you will need to take a few preliminary steps:

1) Find and study documents about what type of soil is in the area of ​​\u200b\u200byour garage, how deep it freezes, at what depth groundwater is located, etc. These data will greatly affect the configuration of your pit (depth and degree of waterproofing);

2) Compose detailed drawing indicating the size of the pit and its location relative to the walls of the garage;

3) Determine the necessary Construction Materials, buy them and bring them to the right place, the same goes for tools.

Designing a viewing hole for a garage

At the stage of drawing up the drawing, it is important to decide where exactly the pit will be:

  • In the center of the garage, if it contains only a car and items necessary for it, such as operating fluids, spare tires, etc .;
  • Closer to one of the walls, if the garage is also a storage of various household items, i.e. also used as a shed. But remember, you can’t place the pit too close to the wall, otherwise it may collapse!

Don't forget to also provide a plank floor for the pit to cover it when not in use.

What should be the size of the inspection hole for a car

1) The length must match that of the car with an increase of 1 m, which is needed to equip the steps;

2) The width again depends on the width of the car, but it is not advisable to make it more than 80 cm;

3) Depth should be done based on your height. At the same time, it should be taken into account that you, standing in the pit, should have 15 cm above your head - this is a comfortable distance that allows you not to reach for the bottom of the car, but to calmly reach it.

Having calculated all the dimensions, outline the contours of the future pit on the garage floor and get down to business.

What you need to dig a trench under a viewing hole

On the this stage you will need a shovel and probably a drill. The latter is needed if the soil is stony and cannot be taken with a shovel. The selected soil can be used for agricultural purposes by moving the fertile soil to the garden (if you have one). Clay and stones are best put in a separate pile - they will come in handy if you need components for concrete. They can also be used to raise the floor of the garage.

In the process of digging a pit, do not forget that at the edges of the pit there should be at least 50 cm (this is necessary to create walls), and a depth margin must be made in the amount of 30 cm (for waterproofing), and do not forget to make an allowance for floor for the pit, the thickness of which is determined by yourself.

We build the walls of the observation pit

Before erecting walls, it is necessary to make a flat floor. The best way- This is a concrete screed, but asphalt can also be used.

The viewing hole must have walls, otherwise it will inevitably begin to crumble. There are quite a few options for creating walls, the most common of them are discussed below:

1) The simplest option is to use roofing material or foil isol, on top of which there will be a number of boards “painted” by mining (this slows down the decay process) or slate, but not wavy, but flat.

2) You can plaster the wall by throwing a rough "fur coat" on metal mesh, and after it dries, remove even walls with a new portion of the solution.

3) If you are determined to build a truly durable structure, and the size of your garage allows you to do this, then it is better to build walls from brick.

The optimal wall thickness is 0.5 or 1 brick. Ideally, they should be new, but if the budget is limited, you can use used ones. The main thing is that they are even and not burnt. If the bricks are old, they must be cleaned of dirt. It is better to choose a classic masonry mortar, consisting of cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 3. If you are a beginner, it is better to add liquid soap or more water to the mixture. The solution will become more liquid and will harden longer, which will give you a large margin of time for laying and correcting flaws.

Naturally, the walls must be made even. To do this, before laying, pull the lace. For control during the masonry process, use a plumb line or building level.
If desired, in brick walls you can build small niches. During repairs, it will be convenient to put tools, spare parts and other small things in them.

Whatever method of erecting walls you choose, they must be strengthened with strapping so that the structure is strong and cannot collapse. For this purpose, a steel corner 50 × 50 × 5 mm is excellent. It is necessary to weld a contour from it, and in such a way that, on top, it is possible to easily lay the cover from the boards, which was mentioned above.

The finished masonry can be left in its original form or plastered, and then painted in any color. In addition, the floor for warmth can be covered with wooden flooring.
If you are a resident of the Far North, it is important to take care of thermal insulation. As a heater, it is better to use 5 cm polystyrene foam. Despite the small volume, this material has excellent heat-insulating properties.

What to do if groundwater is close?

As mentioned above, when digging a hole, it is extremely important to know where the groundwater begins. If it was not possible to find the relevant documents, you will have to drill a well or dig a hole. Water appeared already at a depth of 2 m.? Then you can’t do without waterproofing, otherwise in the spring your pit will turn into a mini-pond with melt water. Moreover, it is necessary to do waterproofing, strictly before the start of pouring the floor and erecting walls.

How to choose waterproofing material

At the moment, the most widespread are 3 types of waterproofing:

  • polymer membranes.

Considered the most reliable material. The service life is unlimited. In view of such outstanding qualities, the material is very expensive, and not every car owner will be able to overpower his purchase. In addition, its application requires special equipment, which can only be used by specialists. Because of these factors, we will not consider it in detail;

  • Roll materials based on bitumen (roofing material, rubemast, foilsol, brizol, etc.).

They have an affordable price and are very easy to use - no special knowledge is required. But the service life of such waterproofing is limited - 10, maximum 15 years, after which it must be completely changed.

  • Penetrating waterproofing.

Very effective way prevent water ingress. More expensive than roll materials, but it has an unlimited lifespan.

Waterproofing a viewing hole in the garage: stages of implementation

Waterproofing should start from the floor. First, compact the surface tightly, then pour an even layer of clay on it, sand on the clay, and gravel on it. Pack each layer carefully. The total thickness of all these layers should be 30 cm.

  • Roll-bitumen materials

Before laying them, a special primer must be applied to the surface ( deep penetration) in 2 layers. Each of them must dry completely before applying a new or laying roofing material.

Rolled waterproofing will be most correctly laid in U-shaped strips, giving an overlap of 20 cm. The corners must be tucked so that the strips remain on a flat section of the floor or wall.

The joints are glued with molten bitumen, but you can also use a bitumen solvent, which will melt the roofing material and it will seize. Take the excess strip along the steps outside the pit - cut it off later. After the 1st layer (along and across), let the bitumen at the joints cool down, and proceed to layer No. 2. In the process, make sure that the joints of the layers do not coincide with each other.

  • Penetrating waterproofing

This type of waterproofing is a dry mix that is diluted with water before use. To prepare a solution, per 1 kg. the mixture requires about 0.3 liters. water.

It is very important to mix the mixture thoroughly so that no lumps remain. Then the solution is applied to the wall with a 1 mm layer. If the walls near the pit are brick, then it is required to apply another layer to the finished wall in order to reliably clog all the pores in the bricks. The principle of operation of the sealant is based on the fact that, covering the surface with a continuous layer, it does not allow moisture to seep out, as if “binding” it.

Together with a waterproofed brick wall, it can withstand water pressure up to 20 atm. Its service life is not limited.

How to ventilate a viewing hole in a garage

The ventilation system in the pit is a thing that is absolutely impossible to do without.

This is especially true for motorists whose "iron horses" work on liquefied gas, since when leaking, propane tends to go down (it is heavier than air), which means that it will inevitably fall into the pit.

The hood is built before the waterproofing stage, so as not to damage the sealant or roofing felt. Proper ventilation consists of 2 parts - supply and exhaust.

The first is a pipe led through the wall to the street. Through it will fall into the pit fresh air. The second is also a pipe installed opposite the flow pipe, but it is not output through the wall, but through the roof. Its upper end should rise above the garage by no more than a meter. Pipes can be both steel and plastic, but it is better to give preference to plastic products - they weigh much less, are easier to install and are completely non-corrosive.

Lighting a viewing hole in the garage - how to hold the light

You can work in a viewing hole without stationary light sources, limiting yourself to a headlamp. However, it gives little light and only in a limited sector. Therefore, it is still better to get normal lighting. As with any wiring, it is important to follow a number of rules:

1) If you do not have the appropriate education, it is better to entrust the work of creating an electrical circuit to a specialist so that he does it in compliance with all safety standards;

2) Lighting should be uniform, you may need several lights;

3) All switches, fuses and sockets should not be located in the pit - only in the garage itself;

4) If you plan to install a 3-phase outlet, be sure to ground it securely.

The wire through which electricity will be supplied to the pit must have a cross section of 4 mm2 or more. It is desirable that the material from which it is made is copper. The wire should be with intact insulation, ideally double.

Lamps suitable for garage lighting are low and high voltage:

  • 12 volt bulbs;
  • lamps for 36 volts;
  • lamps of various classes for 220 volts.

To operate low-voltage lamps, a step-down transformer must be installed next to the meter.

As for the type of lamps, it is better to use fluorescent lamps in the pit itself. Due to their oblong shape, it is advisable to place them in small recesses in the walls, otherwise they may interfere. It is better to purchase such lamps with a protective casing, since an open lamp will not last long due to moisture and pollution.

Incandescent lamps in the pit should not be used. They heat up during operation, and if you touch them, it is easy to burn yourself. The light from them is too bright, which harms vision. In addition, they consume a lot of energy, and if there is a voltage drop, they can spark and burst, which is fraught with injury and fire.

Fluorescent bulbs are good because they have a wide variation in color, use little electricity, and last a long time. However, they are not suitable for a pit, because they are sensitive to cold - when the temperature environment falls below 5 degrees, they become unreliable. They must be disposed of in a special way, since they contain mercury.

Energy-saving lamps have all the advantages of fluorescent and an almost complete absence of disadvantages, with the exception of a higher price and difficult disposal: they also contain mercury.

LED lamps are the most perfect, because they combine all the positive characteristics of other light bulbs. There is no mercury in them, but the price is very high, and for good lighting they need several pieces, which not everyone can afford.

Also in the garage it is useful to have a carrier lamp or a mobile 36-volt lamp. They can come in handy if you need to consider the place of repair better.

When installing wiring and lighting fixtures, strictly follow the fire safety rules! Remember, any shortcomings in this matter can turn into a tragedy.