Wooden floor in the steam room. Repair of the floor in the bath: replacement, installation, useful tips. The device of wooden floors in the bath: features and recommendations

The floor in the bath has many important differences from the floors in various other rooms. First of all, the bath floor must be completely safe for movement in conditions of constantly high humidity and temperature.

In addition, the floor at the same time performs the functions of an element of the sewer system - subject to proper arrangement, the design will ensure full drainage of water. Thanks to this, the floor will remain intact and reliable much longer.

Traditionally, wood and concrete are used to make a bath floor. Check out the features of each option and choose the one that suits you. With the arrangement of any kind of design, you can handle it yourself.

Before starting work, select the appropriate material for arranging the floor, as well as decide on the preferred type of construction.

Production material

As already noted, in bath houses the floors are made of wooden elements or concrete.

It will take more time, effort and money to equip a concrete floor, but such a design will last much longer compared to its wooden counterpart.

The construction of a floor from lumber requires minimal time, labor and money, but after 5-10 years of operation, the elements of such a structure will have to be changed.

Wood floors are divided into leaky and non-leaking varieties.

Leaking floor

The most budgetary and easy to self-arrange design. Such a floor has the form of a boardwalk, the elements of which are laid at intervals to drain water from the bath into the ground.

Any additional devices, with the exception of perhaps the elementary drainage system underground, not provided. Thermal insulation of such a floor is also not performed. In view of this, it is recommended to give preference to leaking structures only for the owners of baths in the southern regions. Also, such a floor would be appropriate in country bath used on a case by case basis.

The leaking floor for the bath is extremely simple in self-arrangement. Repair and self-replacement of worn components will also not cause any difficulties. In this design, the boards are not fixed to the lags, so in the future the owner will be able to remove them without any problems and take them out of the room to the street for better drying.

If desired, instead of the traditional underground backfill, a pallet can be used, the liquid from which will be discharged into some suitable object of the sewer system.

It is somewhat more difficult to equip such a floor compared to a leaking counterpart. Such a system is laid out from two rows of quality wooden planks. For laying the first row, a larch or pine board is used. Finish row it is laid on logs, previously placed on reliable supports. The boards of this series should be of the highest quality, without the slightest knots and gaps.

Under the upper flooring, a subfloor is arranged. You can use a heater. The floorboards of the subfloor should be placed with some slope in the direction of collection. Wastewater and further disposal of waste into a septic tank or sewer ditch.

To ensure the drainage of wastewater, a hole must be made at the bottom of the flooring suitable sizes to connect the siphon.

"Pie" of the concrete floor in the steam room

The arrangement of the capital floor involves the formation of a kind of "pie", which includes six main "layers", namely:

• properly prepared for further concreting, high-quality compacted and hardened earthen base;
• first concrete pour. Usually a layer is made 50 mm thick;
• thermal insulation material. Most often, expanded clay backfill is used;
• reinforcing layer of concrete with mesh;
• leveling layer;
• finish coating.

The soil, thermal insulation and each concrete layer - all this must have a slope towards the drain pit, i.e. the floor structure must be equipped with a normal bath drain. The slope is standard - about 10 degrees.

Choose the right floor plan. First, think about what kind of stove you will install in your steam room and whether a separate foundation is needed to place it. The basis for the furnace unit is best created at the stage of arranging the bath floor.

Wooden floor. Features of installation of leaking and non-leaking floors

The erection of the floor from the log and boards is carried out in several stages. Perform each of them sequentially, and you will get a reliable coating with excellent performance properties.

The first stage - supports

There is practically nothing complicated in the independent arrangement of a wooden floor. Prepare a quality wooden beam section 150x150 mm. Boards will be attached to it.

The logs will experience a fairly high load, so they can only be placed on supports. For the manufacture of such supports, it is allowed to use brick or reinforced concrete. Racks must be at least 150 mm thick. The racks themselves also rely on additional platforms. The width of such a platform should be approximately 70 mm greater than the width of the support post.

Select the height of the racks in accordance with the height of the foundation. In the case of a strip foundation, the posts should be placed flush with the edge of the base, but in the case of a columnar foundation, make the posts such that their upper ends are flush with the upper ends of the pillars.

All supports are subject to mandatory waterproofing. To protect against moisture, bitumen or roofing material is usually used. Wooden structural elements are necessarily impregnated with an antiseptic.

Second stage - underground

Start filling the underground space. If the floor of the bath flowing, pour about an 25 cm cushion of gravel into the bottom of the cellar. If the soil at the construction site does not absorb liquid well, be sure to install separate container suitable volume for wastewater collection.

When erecting non-leaking floor instead of gravel, expanded clay should be used. Make the height of the backfill such that its upper edge does not reach the lag by about 150 mm - this is the necessary ventilation gap. Tamp the backfill carefully.

The third stage - logs and boards

Proceed to laying the lag. If done flowing floor, you can start laying them from any wall convenient for you. If the floor non-leaking, mount logs with a slope to the drain.

Lay the logs on the supporting elements prepared for them. For additional security, you can fasten the logs to the supports using any suitable fasteners.

Start laying boards. If the floor is non-leaking, first equip the base (draft) base with moisture insulation and insulation, and already lay the tongue-and-groove boards on top of it. Direct the groove of the boards inside the steam room. Use nails, screws or other suitable fasteners to fasten the boards to the joists.

The plank floor does not need finishing.

Important: the wood in the steam room cannot be treated with any paints and varnishes.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor has many important advantages over wooden counterparts, among which the following points must be highlighted:

• resistance to temperature extremes and high humidity;
• long service life;
• unpretentiousness in care and handling;
• resistance to decay, corrosion, mechanical and other damage.

Arrangement

Carefully compact the soil and form on it about a 15-centimeter cushion of crushed stone soaked in bitumen. Crushed stone will contribute to an even distribution of the load.

Consider insulation. You can make a two-layer base with a layer of heat-insulating base, form a heat-insulating layer on top of the concrete and lay a top coat on top, or install a floor heating system.

Most often, the option with double laying of concrete is chosen. Pour the bottom layer from the solution using large gravel (30-35 mm). This layer will be 15 cm thick.

If the steam room has a small area, you can pour the screed immediately over the entire base. Otherwise, it will be more convenient to divide the space into meter strips using guides.

It is important that the screed is as even and of high quality as possible.

Let the concrete dry and lay or pour the selected thermal insulation material on top of it.

Regardless of which insulation you decide to use for thermal insulation of the floor, the insulation material is laid on a pre-equipped moisture barrier. For waterproofing, roofing material or polyethylene is usually used. If you wish, you can buy some modern coating solution.

Warming, as already noted, is performed after the first layer of the concrete floor has dried. Expanded clay, boiler slag, mineral wool in slabs (mats), foam plastic and other similar materials are perfect for thermal insulation.

Each listed material has both a number of important advantages and some disadvantages. For example, at expanded clay gravel rather high cost, however, for the arrangement of a layer with the necessary thermal insulation properties of expanded clay, it will take much less than the same slag.

Styrofoam characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties, however, the service life of such insulation in a bath leaves much to be desired.

Mineral wool insulation also have excellent performance, but are not environmentally friendly.

Thus, each insulation has its drawbacks. Therefore, the final choice always remains with the user.

Traditionally, tiles or mosaics are used to finish the concrete floor. In the case of tiling, in most cases it is possible to refuse to pour a second layer of concrete, replacing it with a self-levelling mixture.

Cover the thermal insulation layer with a waterproofing material of your choice. Pour a 1.5-2 cm layer of a special self-leveling compound over the insulation. Such a fill will be an excellent basis for finishing cladding of tiles.

To fix the tiles, use a specially designed adhesive. Cover the entire planned surface, let the glue dry and grout the tile joints.

Before pouring the self-levelling compound, you can lay the elements of the floor heating system. However, in traditional Russian steam rooms and Finnish saunas, this is usually not necessary, but, for example, in a Turkish hammam, a heated floor will be more than appropriate.

Now you can independently equip the floor in your steam room. At the same time, you have a choice - you can make both a beautiful wooden floor and a solid and durable concrete floor. It all depends solely on your personal preferences and features of the operation of the bath. Choose suitable option and get started.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself floors in the bath

The technology and process of arranging floors in a sauna steam room and a washing department differ significantly from the principles of constructing floors in residential and utility buildings.

To provide effective system drainage, ventilation, hydro- and thermal insulation, it is necessary to adhere to the basic rules of laying. Properly equipped floor in the bath ensures the rapid removal of effluents and maintaining the microclimate in the room.

Often the floor for the bath is made of wood or concrete. It is difficult to determine which floor is better, since each type of base has its own operational features and characteristics that should be considered when arranging a private bath.

Concrete floor

Wooden floor

The wooden floor is simpler and more affordable in the arrangement, but less durable than the concrete counterpart. Already after 10 years of active operation, individual elements of a similar design are subject to reconstruction or replacement.

Floors from boards can be made from coniferous and hardwood, resistant to moisture and temperature extremes. The wooden base is represented by two types: leaking and non-leaking.

Leaking type floor

This is a budget option structure, presented in the form of a wooden lattice, the individual elements of which are installed in compliance with the gaps for the free discharge of wastewater into the ground.

The leaking floor does not provide for the installation of a complex drainage system and additional insulation. For this reason, a bath with a similar floor is recommended to be used in the summer or in regions with a warm climate.

Such a base is available for self-arrangement, in addition, and repair work will not cause technical difficulties. In this design, the floorboards are not attached to the logs, so if necessary, they can be dismantled for drying or replacement.

Non-leakage type floor

A non-leaking floor has a solid structure installed on, which are embedded in the ground or concrete base. For efficient drainage, it is carried out at a slight slope towards the drain hole.

For the installation of a solid floor, a tongue-and-groove board made of larch or pine, mounted on supports, is used. High-quality boards for the floor should not have deformations and defects.

The top flooring is laid on the subfloor, which is previously insulated with a moisture-resistant material.

A bath with this type of floor can be operated throughout the year at any temperature.

The choice of consumables and basic calculations

The device of the floor in the bath provides for the use of building and thermal insulation materials, waste pipes made of metal and plastic, galvanized fasteners.

What is better to make the floor in the steam room and sink? Quantity and type Supplies depends on the type of floor construction and how it is installed.

Concrete Floor Calculations

For installation work you need to prepare:

• Fine sand for backfilling a layer 12 cm thick. Material volume (O) \u003d (3 × 3) × 0.12 cm \u003d 1.08 cubic meters. m.
• Expanded clay for backfilling before thermal insulation with a layer thickness of 30 cm. Material volume (O) \u003d (3 × 3) × 0.30 \u003d 2.7 cubic meters. m.
• Expanded polystyrene sheets extruded for thermal insulation. The thickness of the insulating layer is 10 cm. The number of sheets for a room of 9 square meters. m - 2.5 packs.
• A mixture based on cement and sand (ready-made or homemade). The thickness of the screed is from 6 to 12 cm. The average dry mix consumption is 18 kg/sq. m. concrete layer in 1 cm = (3 × 3) × 18 kg/sq. m = 162 kg. For a 6 cm layer: 162 × 7 = 1134 kg or 63 bags of ready mix.
• Reinforcement mesh for fixing a concrete layer measuring 5 × 5 cm.
• Rolled roofing felt for waterproofing a sand cushion from an expanded clay layer.
• Metal profile for beacons under the screed. For a steam room of 9 sq. m. will require 18 meters of profile.
• Plastic drain pipe up to 5 meters long, with a cross section of up to 3.2 cm, siphon and swivel elbow.

Calculations for a wooden floor

As a working example, the calculation of materials for the installation of a wooden floor in a steam room of 9 square meters is given. m.

To build a simple floor of a leaky type, you will need:

• Bar for the subfloor measuring 3 × 3 or 4 × 4 cm along the length of the beam. The distance between the beams is 0.5 meters, the total amount of material is 30 meters.
• Unplaned board for a base up to 25 cm wide and 2.5 cm thick. For one section you need: (300/25) × 0.5 = 6 meters. For decoration of 5 floor sections: 5 × 6 = 30 meters.
• Guide bar for creating a drain slope with a section of 2 × 3 or 3 × 3 cm.
• Bar for fixing logs under the finishing base with a section of 6 × 6 cm.
• Rolled or sheet roofing felt for waterproofing. For a steam room, 16 meters of material are needed, taking into account allowances.
• Basalt wool roll 8 cm thick for thermal insulation.
• Galvanized steel sheets up to 0.6 mm thick - 11 sq. m. material.
• Polymer pipe, elbow and drain ladder for installation in a drain hole. To ensure proper drainage, the installation of the elbow with the connected pipe must be carried out at a right angle.

Concrete floor installation technology

The arrangement of the floor begins with the preparation of the soil inside the foundation - cleansing from debris and dirt.

The layout of the monolithic base is as follows:

1. The soil is carefully compacted and leveled. Internal walls the foundation is treated with bitumen in several layers.
2. On the preparatory stage a sewer pipe is laid through the foundation. To do this, it is enough to make an inlet in the base and install a metal adapter for supplying a plastic pipe.
3. The sewer pipe is brought to the place where the drain hole is provided. The end of the pipe is plugged to prevent blockage.
4. A sand cushion up to 12 cm high is poured onto the ground, moistened and rammed.
5. Next, you need to put the roofing material on the inner walls of the base with an overlap of 15 cm. Additionally, the joints are treated with bitumen-based mastic.
6. Expanded clay up to 35 cm thick is laid, leveled and rammed. 8 cm remains to the edge of the base.
7. Expanded clay is covered with a film 200 microns thick, and the joints are glued with construction tape. Thermal insulation is installed on top of the waterproofing.
8. After the foundation is insulated, guides for pouring concrete are installed in increments of 55 to 95 cm. Lighthouses are laid on a mixture of cement and sand.
9. When installing the guides, it is important to observe the required slope for proper water drainage. In this case, the beacons are set strictly according to the level.
10. At the bottom of the walls around the perimeter of the room, a damper tape up to 12 cm high is fixed. After pouring and drying the concrete screed, the remaining tape can be removed.
11. The concrete is poured with the prepared mixture and left to dry completely.

Important! 5 days after pouring, the beacons are dismantled, and the existing voids are filled with a mixture. The first 10 days the floor is thoroughly moistened with water up to 3 times a day.

Leaking wood flooring technology

A step-by-step guide for installing a leaking floor provides for a step-by-step work: preparing the underground, installing a log and wooden flooring.

Underground preparation

In order for the water that enters the underground to be discharged into the ground, it is necessary to properly prepare the base - for this, the top layer of the earth is cut off and the waterproofing cushion is backfilled from fine gravel up to 26 cm thick.

For soils with a low level of moisture absorption, the soil is removed at a slight angle, and the drainage is organized into a 30-cm pit through the sewer. The soil is covered with clay and leveled.

Important! Before backfilling the pillow, support is installed under wooden logs, and also build a foundation for heating equipment.

Installation of support logs

How to properly install the lag? They are mounted on concrete supports equipped with a brick stand. The height of the lag laying is determined by the height of the pillars (columnar foundation) or tapes (strip foundation).

The installation of the lag is carried out opposite the short wall of the building. To avoid deformation of the lag or their swelling, the supports are covered with a double layer of waterproofing made of roofing material treated with hot bitumen.

To ensure natural ventilation when laying the log to the walls, minimum technological gaps of 4 cm should be observed.

wood flooring

To lay the floor, use boards that are fixed perpendicular to the installed lags. In this case, it is necessary to observe the indents between the individual elements of the floor - 5 mm, between the boards and walls - 2.5 cm. The wooden shield is fixed to the logs using metal nails.

Leak-proof wooden floor laying technology

The device of the wooden floor in the bath provides for the installation of support logs similar to the previous option, with the formation of an inclined surface for efficient drainage.

Installation of the floor in the bath is carried out in the following order:

1. Organization of the water intake system. The first stage of installing a non-leaking floor is the organization of a water inlet measuring 45 × 45 cm, located between the supports and thermally insulated with a solution of clay or cement. The depth of laying the water intake is 35 cm. At a height of 3 cm from the bottom of the receiver, a pipe is installed at a slight slope to discharge wastewater into a drainage well or pit.
2. Subfloor installation. After mounting the lag on the support poles, the subfloor is fixed - a filing made of cheap material, for example, a second-rate board. Hydro, heat and vapor barriers are laid on the boards in layers to protect against moisture.
3. Fixing the finish. On the installed logs, a finish coating of a tongue-and-groove board with a low moisture absorption coefficient is fixed. Along the perimeter of the room from the walls, a gap of 2 cm is observed for natural ventilation. Boards are fixed with nails at an angle of 50 degrees. Finally, a decorative plinth is mounted.

Important! Wall cladding is carried out over the installed plinth to prevent the collection of condensate under the plinth.

Effective protection of logs and flooring from decay

In order not to rot the floor in the bath, experts recommend treating it with a heat-resistant water-based varnish. Such a coating is able to withstand heating temperatures above 100 degrees, providing the surface with reliable protection against high humidity, hot steam and dirt.

The protective varnish is applied to the wooden base with a brush in several layers. Works are carried out in a well-ventilated room at an air temperature of 4 to 28 degrees.

If a wooden floor is being installed in a leaky type bath, then a protective composition is applied to the finish coat and to the supporting logs.

Laying floors in a bath is a complex procedure that depends on the design features of the building, its size and type of foundation. But, despite the technical difficulties, any owner of a private bath will be able to master the technology of laying floors with his own hands.

How to make the right floor in the bath? What type of construction is more suitable? Which is better - concrete or wood flooring? This and much more will be discussed in this article, in which you will find a very helpful tips.

Classical old baths were heated by a stove-heater. Neither insulation, nor, moreover, floor heating was even implied in them. The floors were clay. At best, they made wooden flooring. There was no ventilation in the room, and the bathhouse was heated "in a black way", expelling combustion products through a doorway or a small window located under the very eaves.

Modern construction has a lot of techniques and principles for the construction of structures of various sizes using various forms and methods of base insulation using ultra-technological materials obtained as a result of the irrepressible growth of scientific and technological progress using nanotechnology.

But the basic principle of building baths with a complete set interior spaces, remained the same. Is it that, paying tribute to the current moment, in addition to the steam room, washing room and dressing room, new relaxation zones, a pool, a billiard room and some other rooms have been added. But modern projects bath buildings are completely dependent on the whims and wishes of the customer, as they say: "At any pocket."

Object construction

The process of building your own steam room is multi-stage, including several significant stages. Arrangement of floors is a separate stage, including not only the installation of floors, but also the installation of ventilation, sewerage, hydro, steam and thermal insulation.

Much depends on the quality of construction and finishing materials, as well as from the chosen technology for conducting construction works. There are many subtleties in laying floors and their components in the bathhouse. Written more than one volume of recommendations from leading builders about correct device bath floors, depending on their varieties.

floor laying

A matter of paramount importance for creating a room project is the choice of material for flooring. For a modern private bath, today the most acceptable options are two types of erected structures - the construction of a wooden and the construction of concrete foundations. Each of them has its own positive aspects, as well as some nuances of technical difficulties during creation.

A classic of the genre is the creation of cozy and environmentally friendly wooden floors. The main advantage is the speed of their construction and installation. In addition, it is believed that natural wood brings comfort, a special flavor to the room and fills the room with life-giving power.

Varieties of structures. General information

Custom wood floors design features are divided into two types:

• Leaking

They allow water to freely penetrate through the ceiling, draining into a specially equipped underground. For their device, floorboards are used, laid at the same level in such a way that gaps or gaps are formed between them, at least 5 mm wide, so that the tree swollen from water does not allow the formation of congestion. The water flowing into the underground is absorbed by the soil or artificially drained from under the foundation.

The biggest disadvantage is the impossibility of taking measures to warm the floor, since the structure is removable and taken out to dry after each procedure. leaking type, as a rule, are arranged in seasonal baths.

• Not leaking

The name speaks for itself. Water does not seep between the slots of the flooring, but is collected and drained from the room. To do this, the floors are made with a slight slope towards the water drain hole, which is equipped with a drain pipe leading towards the pit and the sewer network.

This type of construction requires additional installation of a rough floor with the organization of an insulation pad consisting of several layers. This method of arranging floors requires several large costs, both physical and financial. But with the right device, compliance with all the norms and rules of technical equipment, the result is a practical, warm and high-quality flooring, which is to be used at any time of the year.

Racks

Wooden flooring is quite affordable for self-assembly. This requires logs or bars, 150x150 mm in size. They serve as a supporting floor on which the flooring is attached. To give the lags strength, they are laid on brick or reinforced concrete pillars. In dimensions, the posts must be at least 150 mm thick, so that the width of the platform under the laid logs is somewhat larger.

In height, they must correspond to the top line of the foundation, if the tape version is used. When constructing a columnar or foundation on screw piles, the logs should be on the same level with the mortgage crown in such a way that the upper line of the supports coincides with the upper horizon of the beams.

Before starting any installation, all wooden details designs are processed protective equipment, in particular with an antiseptic at least 2 times and covered with waterproofing. Roofing material, roofing felt, bitumen or glassine are used as waterproofing materials.

Underground

Before the construction of the underground with a leaking type of floor, the composition of the soil is initially investigated. If it is composed of light, rapidly absorbing water rocks, such as sandstones or sandy loams, then for subflooring it is enough to dig a hole at least 400 mm deep and fill it with filtration material. Crushed stone is used as a filter, on which the flow of water breaks and quickly seeps to the drainage layer.

When the soil is composed of clayey rocks, which practically do not allow water to pass through, then a kind of hydraulic structure is installed in the underground. It consists of a tank and pipes leading to a pit. The outflow of water from it occurs either by gravity or with the help of auxiliary means incorporated in the structure.

The underground with a non-leaking type of overlap is fully equipped to drain drain water using hydraulic structures. Much attention is also paid to floor ventilation. To do this, leave gaps of at least 150 mm to the laid logs or make appropriate holes in the rough floor, into which they are mounted plastic pipes diameter from 50 to 150 mm.

Logs and flooring

A leaky type structure is constructed quickly, without taking any effort or time. The first board is rigidly attached to the wall with nails, the rest are laid relative to it in increments of at least 35 mm to form cracks through which water will escape. This design does not require specific laying methods, so they can be laid from any wall of the room.

If, for example, we are doing a non-leaking type of construction, then it is necessary to create a slight slope towards the drain of the water.

The device of a non-leaking structure begins with the implementation of the basic floor - a rough floor, on which the insulation pad is attached. It includes a multilayer system of steam, hydro and thermal insulation layers on which a finishing coating of tightly fitted edged or tongue-and-groove boards is laid. Special attention must be paid to the position of the tongue and groove board groove. It should be directed to the inside of the bath. Fastening is done with nails or capercaillie screws.

• concrete floor

The concrete floor has a number of positive qualities. It is not afraid of large temperature changes, is not destroyed by putrefactive bacteria and is easy to maintain. The service life of a concrete floor significantly exceeds the working time of wooden floors.

The main point for the device of a concrete floor is the preparation of the soil. To do this, the soil is carefully rammed and a crushed stone cushion is formed, at least 150 mm thick, which is impregnated with bitumen. The purpose of the pillow is to distribute loads during the operation of the building.

Since any concrete structure in their own way physical characteristics is a rather cold object, since concrete has a rather low coefficient of thermal conductivity, this floor must be insulated. This operation can be done in one of two ways:

1. Concrete in two layers

The laying of the base is carried out in two layers, between which there is an insulation pad. For the organization of a two-layer type of base, the most key point is the correct preparation of the concrete solution.

The lower layer, 150 mm high, consists of large fractions of crushed stone, conglomerate or broken brick, at least 35 mm in diameter, filled with a cement-sand mixture. With large volumes of construction, the territory is divided along the guides into a meter-wide strip, which are subsequently simultaneously poured with a screed. The screed itself with this option turns out to be quite even and beautiful.

To form the top layer, a fine and very fine crushed stone fraction is used. The main point in the construction of the second layer is its careful tamping and care of the concrete gaining strength. Therefore, for several days the base must be moistened - cover the surface with wet sawdust.

1. Formation of one layer

A layer of thermal insulation is formed on the upper part of the base, which allows the arrangement of floors with a wooden covering, or the use of electric or water heating systems for the flooring.

Concrete floor insulation

Regardless of what type of insulation will be used, it is laid on a prepared waterproofing layer without vents with carefully sealed joints of the sheets. Most often, ruberoid is used for these purposes. You can apply seamless waterproofing, for example, liquid rubber, which is very easy to install and allows you to isolate even hard-to-reach places. But before applying liquid insulators, it is recommended to prime the entire surface.

The process of warming is started as soon as the lower insulating layer is ready. As heaters, various types of insulation materials are used:

• fine fraction of expanded clay, or expanded clay sand in combination with expanded clay gravel;
• boiler slag;
• slab mineral or basalt wool;
• from modern materials half pan or polystyrene foam;
• foam concrete.

All of them have a number of advantages, but are not without some disadvantages.

To achieve the required threshold of thermal conductivity, the mound of boiler slag must significantly exceed the thickness of the layer of expanded clay gravel. Despite the fact that the cost is much higher than the price of slag, it is better to use it as thermal insulation, since expanded clay is an environmentally friendly product.

The use of expanded polystyrene is limited by the fact that rodents are happy to settle in its thickness.

Foam concrete is an excellent insulation, but has a very serious drawback - it absorbs water in large volumes, since it is a hygroscopic material.

Work order

Before starting the installation of floors, it is necessary to treat all elements of wooden structures several times with antiseptic preparations. In addition, if the bath is arranged for strip foundation, it is necessary to treat its entire surface with liquid tar and lay a double layer of roofing material.

After these manipulations, the following stages of work are ahead:

• laying of underlayment bars;
• installation and installation of logs;
• laying a rough floor;
• work on laying the insulation pillow;
• finish flooring.

Clean wood floor

Laying finishing is done with great care and accuracy. At the beginning of work, it is necessary to install a two-centimeter rail guide along a short wall. It is fastened with self-tapping screws and serves as a starting point, or a base rail for the ends of the floorboards.

The first board is laid with a longitudinal edge with a spike to the wall at a distance of 20 mm. Self-tapping screws cut into the places of attachment to the logs flush with the work surface.

All other floorboards are laid relative to the first, well-reinforced floorboard. The thorn should fit freely enough into the groove. Floorboards are fitted to each other in such a way that a continuous surface is obtained. To do this, at the points of attachment to the lags, the boards are tapped with a hammer on a special bar, driving them until the gap disappears, after pressing it with its end against the base rail.

There is an opinion that with this method of laying, the floorboard may burst. It depends on the quality of the board itself and the presence of knots in it. Cracking can also occur when strengthening it with self-tapping screws. Therefore, it is recommended that before drowning a self-tapping screw into wood, pre-drill an entrance for it at an angle of 45 degrees.

The floorboard is strengthened to each lag with a screwdriver, sinking the head of the screw so that it does not interfere with the installation of the next floorboard.

The last floorboard will most likely need trimming along its entire length. Here it is necessary not to forget and leave a gap of 20 mm to the wall. To do this, you will need to prepare additional bars or wooden wedges that are driven between the floorboard and the wall. The final fastener is made in the same way as the starting fastener.

Video about the correct device of the bath

A distance of at least 150 mm must be observed between the internal backfill of the foundation and the rough flooring to create a ventilation space in the underground.

Noise during walking is dampened with the help of soundproof spacers made of fiberglass, 100x100x4 mm in size. They are usually applied to the waterproofing layer before installing the log.

Additional treatment with antiseptic preparations should be subjected to all wooden structures that were opened during the installation process.

The installation of floorboards should be carried out in such a way that the water flow flows across the board.

All structures must be made of wood, at least 15% moisture, in other words, well dried, in order to avoid the formation of twisting, drying, delamination and other types of deformation of wooden floors.

Installation of floors in the bath is one of the most critical stages of construction. In most cases, the floors are wooden or concrete-based. And a qualitative solution to the problem related to how to lay the floors in the bath will determine the quality of the reception of bath procedures and the durability of both the floor itself and the bath as a whole.

Let's find out how the floors in the bath can be equipped with their own hands.

Wooden floor

Wood flooring can be non-leaking and leaking. For each of them, the installation instructions are different.

Installation of non-leaking floors

The most simple design gender and the procedure is as follows:

• Floor beams are usually mounted during the laying of a log house, cutting them into the first row of beams or logs.. Usually they rest on the foundation if it is a strip foundation or masonry between the pillars in the case of a column foundation.
• If this has not been done, then the beams can be cut even after the construction of the walls and roof. Or make the floor in the bath rooms independent of the foundation and walls. It will not affect how to lay the floor in the bath.
  In this case, separate columns must be laid out under the floor beams. They are made in the same way as the foundation columns.

Attention: The top level of the posts should not be higher than the level of the foundation.
Yes, and below is undesirable, this will allow us to solve many problems in the future.

• Boards are solidly nailed to the floor beams from below, or bars of 50x50 mm are nailed in the lower part of the sides of the beams. A draft floor is laid on these bars.

• After that, a layer of vapor barrier is laid on the draft boards..
• One or two are placed on the vapor barrier. It could be mineral wool or heaters based on basalt wool.
• Then another layer of vapor barrier spreads.

• A grooved floorboard is laid on top of the beams.

If such floors are made for a steam room or washing room, then the floor surface should have a slight slope, about 2 cm per meter of distance along the floor.

This slope should be towards a wall or towards a special water receiver built into the floor. For a steam room, it is best to use wood hardwood, they are softer and do not emit harmful resins at high temperatures.

Speaking about how to lay the floor in a bathhouse (), such a slope is not necessary, and the material for these rooms can be any: both coniferous and deciduous.

Installation of leaking floors

Such floors are laid only in the steam room and washing room, that is, where water drainage is necessary. Before laying the floor in this type of bath, it is necessary to prepare the soil under the future flooring.

In order to mount a leaking floor, do the following:

• The ground inside the room is leveled, and a layer of sand is poured on it and compacted so that as a result this layer becomes approximately 10 cm.
• Then a layer of crushed stone is poured - 10 cm.
• Top is done concrete screed, thus creating a slope towards the water receiver. Water should be discharged either into a septic tank, or further from the bath into the ground, which should absorb water well.
• At the end of the pipe that drains water, it is necessary to mount a special lock that does not allow odors to enter the bath.
• Boards or narrow slats are mounted on the beams, so that there is a gap of one to two centimeters between them.

Attention: Wood must be treated with special compounds to extend the life of the material.

bulk floors

Having considered the previous two methods, it becomes clear that there are floor beams free space. As a result, in winter it is quite cool in the lower part of the room, and good insulation is required.

But you can do otherwise, and when deciding how to lay the floors in the bath, you can avoid laying insulation or cold air in case of leaking floors.

It is done like this:

• Floor beams are not installed at all.
• A layer of sand, approximately 15-20 cm, is covered and rammed onto the ground.
• Either crushed stone or expanded clay is poured onto the sand, also with a layer of 15-20 cm, it is also leveled and rammed.

• A concrete screed is poured from above within 10 cm.

wooden floors

Wooden logs are laid on the screed, on which the tongue-and-groove floorboards are already mounted. And in the same way, if it is a steam room or a washing room, then a slope is made to drain the water. If this is a rest room or dressing room, then there is no need to tilt.

Ceramic tile floor

You can do it differently, you can put it very well on even concrete ceramic tiles. Using tile adhesive and tiles, a very durable, strong and reliable floor can be installed.

Attention: A special, non-slippery tile should be used for the floor in the bath, in order to avoid falls.

In conditions of high temperatures, such as in a steam room. It makes sense to lay cork mats or a lattice of wooden blocks on the floor.

Compared with wooden floors, concrete-based floors have the advantage of being less expensive and having a much longer service life. But concrete and tile floors cannot create an atmosphere of peace and comfort in the bath.

The situation in the bath with wooden floors, the same walls allows you to get a good rest, so before laying the floor in the bath, you should think carefully about what will be more useful, not cheaper.

Floor replacement

Nothing is eternal, and no matter how much we would like, but often a situation arises related to how to change the floor in the bath.

There may be several reasons:

• The old floor has fallen into disrepair.
• It does not perform the functions of water drainage.
• He just got bored.
• The floor is cold, slippery, etc.

And here, first of all, you need to look at what is available and what you want to receive. Most often, the old coating is completely removed and an analysis is made of what remains under it.

Depending on the diagnosis, either everything is removed, after which the floor is installed as new. Either cosmetic repairs are being made and a new floor covering is being laid.

It is possible to completely replace one type of floor with another. Then, too, everything old is removed and everything new is mounted.

Conclusion

The floor in the bath has the same important function as the walls and ceiling. And it largely depends temperature regime indoors and how comfortable it is to be in this room without shoes. Therefore, it is important to correctly, in compliance with all stages, install the floor elements and lay the floor covering.

Our portal can provide you with additional information on this topic, as well as on issues related to construction and repair.

You can make the floor in the bath with your own hands, if you do everything carefully and correctly.

The long service life of your floor is fundamentally dependent on the quality of preparation of the base of your bath, the choice of insulating components and the final coating.

We will provide you and together we will consider the installation of the floors of the bath, as well as distinctive features installation and all sorts of technical errors that should be taken into account and not made.

Features of the structure of the floors in the bath

If you are building a bathhouse and plan to use it for all twelve months or more, then in this case we advise you to make a capital foundation with pouring a concrete screed.

There is an answer to the question of how to create a wear-resistant and strong floor in the bath - the construction of the bath itself as a whole is carried out taking into account a large number of different nuances. Premises with a rather specific microclimate can provide truly extraordinary operating conditions. floor covering.

Increased humidity, as well as changes in the temperature threshold and the contact of the subfloor with water, can significantly reduce the life of your floor.

The choice of a particular method of arranging the foundation in a very humid room mainly depends on the following factors:

Type of wooden floors

The device of the base with the help of wooden flooring will be optimal for seasonal buildings. The tree itself has a small amount of thermal conductivity, which is why it helps to retain heat in a very humid room.

But a very high moisture threshold has the ability to provoke the process of rotting of wooden components. In order to avoid this, experts advise using floor logs, and, accordingly, flooring, which is made of conifers tree. They are less hygroscopic because they have natural resins in the wood structure.

In general, absolutely all types of wooden coatings can be divided into 2 main categories: leaking and non-leaking.

Leaking

The first category is leaky. The boards are laid at a certain interval, which is why water is removed from the entire room as quickly as possible due to the various cracks formed in the coating, the dimensions of which range from three to seven millimeters.

The device of this base is very beneficial for the following reasons:

• Low price of floors;
• There is no need to install a drain system;
• Easy installation.

Non-leaking

The second category is non-leaking. So let's say, a monolithic coating, which is assembled from boards. You can use this category in buildings that are used all year round.

But in this embodiment, a water collector should be installed in the base, with the help of which the waste water would disappear into the sewer pipes.

The non-leaking coating device itself has the following advantages:

• Excellent thermal conductivity of the room;
• Possibility of collecting underfloor heating;
• Very long period of use.

Preparation of inventory and tools

The construction of a bath is considered a very responsible, accurate, time-consuming process, but one of the most important points flooring is considered. From the quality indicators of installation work, which are associated with sewer system, as well as laying floor components, in general, the microclimate of the entire room depends.

In order to bring to life all the stages of floor construction neatly and correctly, first of all, you need to have at hand the tools you need for the job.

The device of a concrete base is possible only if you have the following tools:

For installation wood flooring you will need the following tools:

• Electric jigsaw - angle grinder;
• Roulette;
• Nails;
• Plane;
• A hammer.

In order to understand how to properly install the floors in the bath, we will provide you step by step instructions laying concrete and wood floors.

Floor installation

Conventional floor construction

The base should be located eight to nine centimeters above the zero level, in particular, it concerns the base, which is settled in the steam room. In this case, the temperature threshold in the room will remain at the same level for a very long time. At the same time, in the washing room, the base should be made a little lower than in the rest of the bath, which will make it possible to avoid water leakage, sweat, the floor into the shower room and dressing room, and so on.

Layers

The usual device of the floor in the bath is considered a very labor-intensive process:

Features of the preparation of the base

The usual construction of a warm floor in a bath begins with simple preparatory work. This requires the following: ensure a long service life of the final coating; To do this, in the process of preparing the foundation, the following work should be done:

1. First of all, a mineral pillow in the form of expanded clay granules or broken bricks should be laid in place of the floors. The usual thickness of such a drainage layer must be no less than fifteen centimeters;
2. After that, crushed stone or gravel should be poured on top, from ten to fifteen centimeters a layer;
3. Then the laid materials should be tamped.
4. The imposition of the so-called mineral cushion makes it possible to disrupt the capillarity, due to which the ground moisture increases and reaches the base, as a result of which it destroys and destroys it.

Preparation of the working mixture

In order to create a high-quality solution for pouring the screed, it is necessary to strictly observe the ratios, as well as the order of attaching the necessary elements.

In order to improve the thermal insulation qualities of this mixture, you can add to its composition sorbitol. The manufacturing process itself takes place in two stages.

The first step is to pour ten liters of clean water into a concrete mixer, then pour about two buckets of expanded sand and mix everything. Then you need to add cement (about five liters), the main point is that the cement must be grade M-300 and not lower.

After adding cement, mix again, then add about five liters of the same clean water, and all that remains is to mix all the components until a homogeneous mixture.

If necessary, you can improve the mixture, namely, increase its technical parameters by adding perlite. In order to do this, you need to go through the following: ten kilograms of perlite and two to two and a half liters of water should be added to the already prepared solution. All this is very thoroughly mixed until the entire solution becomes free-flowing. After ten minutes, mix everything very well again.

At the very end, you will observe a loose composition, in its consistency it is a bit like a simple plasticine. After this stage produce a screed.

Filling the first layer

If the area of ​​​​the rough coating is very small, the screed should be carried out over the entire area. To fill the screed over a huge area, the room is divided into strips (conditionally), while everything needs to be processed in turn.

So, in order to lay your first layer of the mixture as accurately and correctly as possible, you need the following:

Hydro and thermal insulation of concrete floors

At the moment of hardening of the screed, it is necessary to proceed to the stage of hydro- and thermal insulation of the coating.

Before all insulating materials are laid, the concrete itself (surface) is checked for dents, bulges, cracks. If necessary, defects should be repaired.

As a simple waterproofing materials, as a rule, you can choose:

• polyethylene film;
• Rolled roofing material;
• Bituminous mastic.

After you have already equipped the waterproofing, you need to make the floor insulation.

For these purposes, you can apply:

• Polystyrene;
• Granular expanded clay;
• foam concrete;
• Penoplex;
• Mineral wool.

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer must be from ten to fifteen centimeters. As practice shows, the most the best insulation for concrete surfaces, expanded clay is considered. It does not absorb moisture, weighs very little and has sound insulation.

Filling the final screed

Laying the final layer of the screed technologically differs very little from the previous version, however, in this case, the thickness of the screed can vary from eight to ten centimeters. With all this, it must be taken into account that in the process of pouring the mixture, it is necessary to monitor the observance of the slope towards the water collector.

However, the arrangement of floors in small and large rooms is quite different. For example, if the base area is very large, to give the structure high strength, it is worth laying a simple reinforcing mesh before pouring the screed. In this case, even with frequent use of the bath, the rough coating will not crack.

feature of wood floor

Wooden flooring is considered the standard type of coating that was used to equip the floors in the bath.

Despite its hygroscopicity, this type of material is still in great demand among consumers, due to the following features:

We make a wooden floor in the bath

How to carefully and most importantly, correctly lay a wooden floor? To do this, mount wooden base, which is very easy in fact, however, it is necessary to take into account a certain number of technical nuances.

Absolutely the entire process of arranging floors is divided into the following stages:

To build a bath, and even with a wear-resistant floor, is a very difficult task, unless, of course, the specific microclimate in the room is taken into account.

To increase the period of use of the floor covering, the following points must be considered during the installation process:

You can improve the water-repellent properties of the screed with the help of dedusting agents with the same features.

Conclusion

Installing the floor in the bath is a very long and laborious process, it will wait for a careful approach from you.

In the process of implementation of installation work, it is necessary to take into account a large number of factors:

• foundation type;
• base area;
• type of floor materials;
• microclimate;
• etc.

Only in this situation and in compliance with almost all technological rules, the floor mounted in the bath will be able to serve you for an incredibly long period of time.