How to make a floor in a bath: device, varieties, installation technologies. Do-it-yourself floors in the sauna How to lay wooden floors in the bath

This is a very difficult task, since it is necessary to take into account the numerous nuances of arranging all its premises. These "subtleties" are due, of course, to the specifics of bathing conditions. Specifically, it is expressed by high rates of temperature and humidity, direct contact of many surfaces to be finished with water, the need to maintain a special microclimate, increased sanitary and hygienic requirements for the arrangement of premises, and some others.

And one of the most "problem" areas are traditionally floors. Not only their own durability, but also the comfort of staying in bath rooms as a whole, most directly depends on how correctly their design is chosen and assembled. Therefore, the question - what is the best thing to make the floor in the bathhouse from, is one of the most important when planning such a building.

The main types of bath floors

To begin with, it is worth understanding what floor designs, in principle, can be equipped in a bath, and what material they are made of. There are not so many suitable options, since the specific microclimate has a very negative effect on most materials. In addition, the decoration of premises designed for constant high humidity and sudden changes in temperature should be environmentally friendly, not emitting toxic substances.

Therefore, today the floors in the bath rooms are still equipped with wood or concrete. An innovation in the design is the possibility of organizing surface heating using modern "warm floor" systems.

wooden floors

Be that as it may, wooden floors are still traditional for Russian baths. They were made in this building from time immemorial - they have not lost their relevance today. The only thing that many bath owners add to the usual wooden structure is their insulation in such a way. modern material like extruded polystyrene foam.

It makes sense to say a few words about the material that is chosen for arranging a wooden floor. In connection with Due to the fact that the floor covering will be constantly exposed to moisture, it is advisable to choose hardwood for the floor of bath rooms, which absorbs less moisture, as it has a dense structural structure. These species include oak, larch or alder.

Oak boards are quite expensive and not so easy to find, so the best option would be a board made from larch or alder. Both have good wear resistance and low hygroscopicity. Although we note here that this wood is also expensive, so many bathhouse owners prefer pine boards to them, as the most affordable material in terms of price. But the durability of such coatings is not outstanding.

For a flowing floor, a flat board is selected, without grooves and spikes. And for a non-leaking structure, it is better to purchase grooved boards, since only they, with a good fit in progress installation are able to create an almost hermetic coating.

Despite the fact that the wood will be in a room with high humidity, it must first be well dried, otherwise the board may “lead” after the flooring, and the floors will begin to deform.

The recommended thickness of the board for the manufacture of floorboards varies from 25 to 40 mm. The selected thickness parameter will determine the step with which the logs should be installed for fixing the boardwalk. The thicker the board, the greater the distance between the lags. So, under a board of 25 mm, it is necessary to lay logs in increments of up to 400 mm, and if a board with a thickness of 40 mm is chosen, then the distance between the logs can be increased to 600 ÷ 700 mm.

cutting board prices

edged board

So, wooden floors can be of two types, which differ in their design - this is a leaking and non-leaking floor.

Leaking wood floor

This type of floor is arranged in such a way that it does not retain moisture on its surface. To do this, a gap is left between the boards that form the surface, through which water escapes.

The flowing floor can be arranged approximately according to the following scheme:

1 - The log wall of the bath.
2 - Plinth screen, protecting the lower part of the walls and the corners of the room from direct water ingress. Made from board.
3 - Drainage backfill, consisting of crushed stone and gravel.
4 - Drainage pit for water runoff, filled crushed stone and gravel mix or waste building materials(for example, broken bricks, pieces of concrete, etc.)
5 - Leaking floor boardwalk.
6 - Bases for lan plank flooring. This embodiment shows the laid asbestos-cement. Instead, concrete or brick pillars can be installed as supports.
7 - Cut-off waterproofing between the base and the lower crown of the wall.
8 - The foundation of the bath, columnar, pile or tape.
9 - A compacted clay layer that redirects the water spilled from above into a drainage pit (ditch).

The arrangement of the underground space of leaking floors can be done in different ways, using various materials:

• Previously, there was usually no special catchment area under the floor. The water from the bath drained directly into the ground. Therefore, the building itself was necessarily raised above ground level by at least 200 mm, usually on a columnar foundation. And a bath was built, if possible, on a slope, so that moisture would not linger under it.
• Another underground drainage system is shown in the diagram above. Under the leaking floors, a kind of drainage made of gravel and (and) crushed stone is equipped. Water flowing down through the cracks in the floor is distributed in the backfill and slowly sinks into the ground. If a rammed clay castle is made, then penetration does not go through all area - surplus water gradually flows into the drainage pit. Due to the fact that the underground has the ability to ventilate, part of the moisture simply evaporates. This is facilitated by internal channels and drilled holes in asbestos concrete pipes serving as a support for wooden flooring.
• If the bath is built on sandy soil, then there will be no problems with water drainage, since it goes perfectly into the sand, and it will always be dry under the building.
• If the soil on the site is difficult to pass water, then under the floor you can dig a pit, a depth of 300 ÷ 400 mm, which is covered with sand. This option can be called the simplest in design. But with frequent use of the bathhouse, such drainage gradually begins to “bog down”, and it is better not to consider this approach as a serious measure.

• A more complex design of the underground of a leaking floor involves the collection and drainage of water into a drain pit located at a certain distance from the bath, or into a drainage trench (ditch). In order to organize this version of the bath floor with a drain, the first step is to dig a foundation pit, the walls of which are located at an angle and converge to its central part. Then the slopes are covered with rubble, which is well compacted. After that, a reinforcing mesh is laid on the gravel. Further, the slopes are concreted (pos.1). In the central part of the underground, along its entire width or length, a gutter (pos. 2) is also created using concreting, into which water that seeps through the floor will drain along the inclined walls. Instead of a gutter, also in the center or offset to one of the edges, a concrete pit can also be equipped, which is connected by a sewer pipe (pos.3) with drainage system(I my). The pipe is given the required slope (usually 5 cm per linear meter of length), and the water flows down it with a simple overflow.

And already above the concrete inclined base there are support pillars (pos.4). Through the mandatory cut-off waterproofing (pos. 5), beams or logs (pos. 6) are laid on them, along which a plank bath floor (pos. 7) is laid with a gap between adjacent boards of about 5 mm.

If there is a desire to somewhat reduce the cost and speed up the process of arranging the drain underground, then concrete can be replaced with a well-compacted clay coating. Compacted clay does not pass moisture well, so water will drain along such walls into a pit, and then into a drainage pit. But in this case, there will certainly be more dirt.

Now that the underground space and the water drainage scheme are organized, you can proceed to the formation of the floor itself. Its design consists of three layers:

- these are floor beams of the underground space (beam or log);

- logs laid on floor beams, perpendicular to them (sometimes logs are not mounted, they are limited to beams if they are located with a small step);

- boardwalk, the boards of which are fixed to the logs (beams).

A gap of at least 5 mm is left between the individual floorboards.

These gaps are necessary for the free flow of water down. And the width of the gap is selected taking into account the possible swelling of the wood with its constant waterlogging.

Some sauna owners make the leaking floor removable in order to provide the opportunity to take out the covering boards from time to time for airing and drying outside. If this option is chosen, it would be advisable to mount several shields from lag beams and boards, with such dimensions that it would not be particularly difficult to carry them to the place of flooring and back to the street. These shields are laid on top of the floor beams, but are not fixed to them.

The advantages of this design include the simplicity of its installation, as well as the relatively low cost of its arrangement.

The most obvious drawback of leaking floors is that the bath can only be fully used during the warm season or in regions with moderate winter temperatures. In winter colds, bath rooms will quickly cool down, and a large amount of fuel is required to heat them. Yes, and to catch a cold in such a bath, with a possible cold draft from below, is worthless.

Bar prices

Leak-proof design bath wooden floor

The design of a non-leaking floor involves the arrangement of a boardwalk underneath with a slope for water to drain. At the lowest point of this slope, there is either a gutter connected to a drainage pipe, or a drain is installed in the form of a hole covered with a grate (ladder).

Floor boards are laid immediately on the beams overlapping the space of the bath room, in the event that it is not planned to insulate the floors.

If the floor is insulated (and this is very important for a bath), then the structure is assembled from several layers - these are floor beams, a subfloor, insulation and a finished plank floor.

Boards in a non-leaking floor structure should fit as closely as possible to each other. Therefore, for flooring, as a rule, a tongue-and-groove board is chosen, which will become a guarantee of the “tightness” of the flooring. This is especially important if it is planned to lay insulation material under the coating.

In addition, it is very important in this design to correctly calculate the slope of the floor. Water should flow well through it, but one should not forget about the comfort and safety of people who will take bath procedures. Moreover, the surface can be slippery from water and soap. Usually, a finishing floor slope of 50 mm per linear meter of length is sufficient, which is, respectively, 5% or about 3 degrees in angular terms.

- To make it easier to form a slope, you can use a board or timber cut at the right angle and fixed to the subfloor boards. These elements will become a kind of lags for laying a solid finishing floor.

Prices for drain pipes

drain pipe

- At the designated location draft floor a hole is cut out for installing a drain pipe with a ladder. The drain hole itself should be located at the bottom of the floor slope or in its center if the floor slope is provided in this direction.

- The next step between the lags on the subfloor is the insulation boards - usually extruded polystyrene foam is used for this purpose, since it is not afraid of moisture. All gaps remaining between the lags and the insulation, as well as around the drain pipe, must be filled mounting foam.

- Then, a waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation, which is sewn to the logs with staples driven in with a stapler and slipped under the frame of the drain hole.

- The edges of the waterproofing material must be raised on the walls, up 150÷200 mm and fasten with staples.

– The boardwalk is being installed, with the tightest fit of the floorboards. At the same time, they try to use hidden fastening technology so that the fastener heads (nails or screws) were completely hidden (this is very important for a bath).

- Joints of parts drain drain with finishing floor boards must be treated with silicone sealant.

- Then, the walls of the room are sheathed, so that the waterproofing attached to them remains under the sheathing.

- At the final stage, the floor around the entire perimeter is framed with a plinth, which should also be located at an angle so that water falling on the walls flows down them onto the floors.

Wooden bath floors are not painted or varnished, they can be impregnated with drying oil or natural oils, which are applied in two or three layers.

The advantages of a non-leaking wooden bath floor can be called its following qualities:

• The possibility of creating an insulated structure.
• The possibility of using the bath at any time of the year.
• Creation of the most favorable microclimate in the bath rooms.
• Wood itself is a warm material, so it will be comfortable for sauna visitors to stay indoors.

The disadvantages of the wooden floor of this design include the following:

• With insufficient processing of lumber, as well as in the absence or improperly organized ventilation, the floors may begin to rot, or be covered with dark spots of mold along the edges.
• With its durability, wooden floors still cannot compete with concrete coatings.

Bath concrete floors

Concrete floors in the bath - also quite popular option. But their arrangement will require serious financial costs, it will take a lot of time. But, having made them once, you can be sure that the structure will last 30-40 years without repair. However, in order for the concrete floor to serve for such a long time, it is necessary to equip it in accordance with all the rules, using high-quality materials.

If you decide to make the floors in the bath concrete, you need to know how positive and negative qualities possess.

• As mentioned above, concrete pavement is the most durable in comparison with all others.
• The material is not subject to decay and resistant to moisture.
• The concrete floor after its arrangement does not require special care.
• A wide variety of concrete facing with decorative material is provided.
• There is a possibility of laying under a coupler or under a facing tile water or electrical system"warm floor".

• This design will cost much more than wooden floors.
• The process of arranging the coating is more laborious and lengthy, since you will have to wait for the maturation of concrete before proceeding to its finishing and further operation.

• If you do not use the "warm floor" system, then the floors in the bath will turn out to be cold, even with the presence of insulating material. Therefore, it is necessary to install wooden gratings on top of concrete or tile.
• A concrete floor needs a decorative finish or the floors will look unattractive.

Arrangement of concrete floors is carried out in several stages:

- The first step in the bathhouse is a sewer pipe, which will drain the used water. Its vertical branch pipe should rise above the rest of the preparatory layers.
- The surface of the earthen floor is leveled, carefully compacted. Sometimes it is necessary to make an additional removal of soil, since it is necessary to equip sand and crushed stone (gravel) “pillows” under the concrete screed.
- The next step is to fill the earthen floor with a sand cushion 100÷1501 mm thick, which will serve as a good waterproofing layer. Sand must be well compacted.
On top of the sand, a layer of crushed stone or coarse gravel is laid with the same thickness, which must also be carefully compacted.
- For floor insulation, you can use bulk materials - the same expanded clay. It is distributed in the desired layer on top of the sand and gravel backfill.

cement prices

Quite suitable for insulation and extruded polystyrene foam. Their slabs break out a continuous floor covering of the entire floor area. If small gaps or gaps remain (for example, around the perimeter of the room or around the nozzle sewer pipe), they are filled with mounting polyurethane foam.

– Insulation material recommended from above waterproof. To do this, the thermal insulation stand is covered with a dense polyethylene film, roofing material or any modern waterproofing. Sheets of waterproofing material are overlapped and hermetically fastened between with moisture resistant adhesive tape or bituminous mastic. Cloths should be found on the walls above the future screed by 100 ÷ 150 mm.

- Then a reinforcing metal mesh is laid on top of the waterproofing layer.

- After that, metal beacons are placed on the floor surface, which should not only set the thickness of the future screed, but at the same time create required slope surfaces for water flow. Lighthouses are mounted from the drain hole in the form of rays diverging towards the walls, or parallel to a slope to one of the walls, if linear water collection is organized in the form of a gutter.

- As with the option with insulation, and without it, before pouring the solution around the entire perimeter of the future screed, a damper tape is fixed to the lower part of the walls. This material is necessary to maintain the integrity of the concrete monolith during expansion under the influence of increasing temperatures.

- Now it is possible to pour the concrete solution with leveling its surface along the beacons. Leveling is carried out using the building rule with the adoption of measures for the maximum compaction of concrete, so as not to leave air cavities in its thickness.

- The leveled screed will completely harden and gain brand strength no earlier than in a month. Finishing work, if they are planned, can be moved on in about two weeks.

- Further, if it is planned to tile the floors with ceramic tiles, then the surface of the screed is treated with a primer deep penetration applied in one or two layers.
- After the primer dries, you can tile the floors with ceramic tiles.

“Today, many owners of bathhouses under construction are additionally equipping floors with heating systems. Most often, an electric "warm floor" is chosen - cable or using rod infrared mats. It is much easier to mount it, and for this it is better to choose those varieties that can be laid directly under the ceramic coating.

Prices for ceramic tiles

ceramic tile

Water heating implies connection to the heating system. That is, it is mono to resort to it only if the bath is located either directly in the house, or in the adjoining extension, or is in close proximity, where pipes from the heating circuit can be laid without difficulties and large heat losses. And the contour of the warm floor itself will have to be laid even before the screed is poured.

"Warm floor" - it's extremely comfortable!

But it also takes a lot of work! Before embarking on such a task, you need to read the instructions in order to realistically assess your capabilities. The publications of our portal dedicated to the independent creation of the system - the most difficult to implement, and electric "warmfloors" for ceramic tiles - here the task seems to be simpler.

How to cover the concrete surface of the bath floor?

The concrete floor in the bath rooms can simply "iron". That is, dry cement is rubbed into the wet surface of the screed, and left in this form. Pretty primitive, short-lived, and "gives away a public bath", whatever you say. For such a floor, wooden gratings are required, as it turns out to be cold and unpleasant for bare feet.

A much better, durable and simply beautiful option for finishing a concrete floor is ceramic tile, which has all the qualities necessary for rooms with high humidity. In order for the tile to serve for a long time without the need for repair, it is necessary to produce its high-quality masonry.

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor - is it possible to master it yourself?

Of course, you can, if you are careful with and strictly follow the recommendations of the technological instructions. And you can find such instructions by following the recommended link to the article of our portal.

When choosing ceramic tiles for facing bath floors, it is necessary to take into account the features of its surface. In the bath, the pier can be both wet and slippery from soap or shampoo. So don't choose facing material with a smooth surface, since the likelihood of falling and getting injured increases many times over.

Today on sale it is easy to find floor tiles that suit the color and pattern. tile with a relief surface, which does not have a glazed finish. Such ceramic cladding practically does not slip, even when wet.

Another material option that can be used for flooring on concrete floors is a wood-polymer decking board, the so-called decking. This material has numerous advantages and qualities that are perfect for bath rooms,

To positive qualities such flooring can be classified as:

• Environmentally friendly material that does not contain formaldehyde, lead and other toxic additives.
• Absolute moisture resistance. The service life of a decking board, even in more severe outdoor conditions, is at least 30 years.
• The material has high resistance to temperatures from -60 to 80 degrees.
• The boards have a well-designed embossed surface, so it is very difficult to accidentally slip on them.
• There are quite a few for sale a wide range of shades. The color of the coating does not change under the influence of an aggressive environment.
• The material is hygienic, as it is not a favorable environment for the appearance of mold or pathogenic bacteria.
• The board is easily cut into a tedious size, it is very easy to assemble. Its mass is small, and the flooring can be carried out without much effort. Fresh air for ventilation.
• The material is "warm" to the touch, and is able to fully replace the boardwalk.

Decking can be laid with shields on top of a concrete floor, or used in a leaking bath floor structure, replacing a regular board with it.

Garden parquet - this coating option can also be used for flooring on the concrete floor of the bath, in which the drain is equipped. The material has all the qualities of wood-polymer decking boards and has a very aesthetic appearance. The convenience of this material lies in the fact that, if necessary, the slabs can be dismantled very quickly, for example, for the convenience of cleaning the concrete floor, and then laid in place. The special system of their locking connections makes such laying or dismantling generally the simplest task.

Due to the fact that flooring manufacturers are constantly working on new materials, and they appear on sale from time to time, it is quite possible to choose a modern, original and affordable option for the floors in the bath.

So, the possible types of bath floor designs were considered, as well as the materials used forthem creation. Having such information, it will be easier to decide which of the options is most suitable for a particular room, will correspond to both the wishes and financial capabilities of the owner of the bath

Some aspects of the creation of bath floors, obvious and rather controversial, are highlighted in the video presented to the attention of the reader:

Video: Options for creating high-quality floors in the bath

You can equip the floor in the bath with your own hands if all necessary work. The service life of the floor depends on the quality of the base preparation, the choice of insulating materials and the finishing coating. We will consider the installation of floors for a bath, the features of their installation, as well as the technological nuances that must be taken into account.

Features of the device floors in the bath

How to make a durable and wear-resistant floor in the bath? The construction of the bath as such is carried out taking into account many nuances. A room with a specific microclimate provides extreme operating conditions floor covering. High humidity, constant temperature fluctuations and contact of the floor base with water can significantly reduce the life of the floor.

The choice of a specific method of arranging the foundation in a "damp" room depends on such factors:

• method of heat and waterproofing;
• type of foundation and the presence of an underground;
• seasonal use of the bath;
• type of soil under the building;
• structural features of the building.

If the bath is planned to be used throughout the year, in this case it is more expedient to make a solid foundation with pouring a concrete screed. In a frame building, which is used only in the warm season, it is best to make a wooden floor, since its assembly from an economic point of view will be more profitable.

Types of wood floors

The device of the base with the help of wooden flooring will be the most acceptable for seasonal buildings. The tree has a low thermal conductivity, therefore, it helps to save heat in a "damp" room. However, high humidity can cause wood elements to rot. To avoid this, experts recommend using floor logs and flooring made of conifers wood. They are less hygroscopic due to the presence of natural resins in the wood structure.

All types of wooden coverings for baths can be conditionally divided into the following categories:

1. Leaking. The boards are laid at a certain interval, so water is immediately removed from the room due to the cracks formed in the coating, the size of which varies from 3 to 7 mm. The device of such a foundation is beneficial for several reasons:
   • simple installation;
   • low cost of floors;
   • no need to install a drain system.
2. Non-leaking. A monolithic coating assembled from boards can be used in buildings that are used all year round. However, in this case, it is necessary to install a water collector in the base, with the help of which the waste water would be discharged into the sewer. The non-leakage coating device has the following advantages:
   • long period of operation;
   • good thermal insulation of the room;
   • the possibility of assembling underfloor heating.

Necessary tools

The construction of a bath is a laborious and responsible process, but one of its most important stages is the arrangement of floors. From quality installation work, coupled with the device of the sewer system and the laying of floor materials, the microclimate in the room depends. To implement all the stages of floor construction correctly, first of all, you need to have the necessary tools at hand.

Device concrete base possible with the following tools:

• concrete mixer;
• lighthouses;
• rule (for alignment);
• building level;
• container for solution;
• shovel.

To make a wooden coating, you will need other tools:

• a hammer;
• jigsaw (angle grinder);
• plane;
• roulette;
• nails.

To understand how to properly mount the floors in the bath, consider a step-by-step guide to laying wooden and concrete floors.

Standard floor construction

The base, equipped in the steam room, should be located 8-9 cm above the zero level. In this case, the temperature in the room for a long time will remain at the required level. At the same time, in the washing room, the base is made somewhat lower than in other rooms of the bath. This avoids water leakage under the floor into the dressing room, shower room, etc.

The standard flooring is represented by a multilayer cake:

• waterproofing layer (placed on the ground);
• bars under a wooden crate;
• draft coating;
• insulating materials (insulation, waterproofing);
• logs for assembling the crate;
• heat and water insulators;
• lining;
• air bag;
• wooden and concrete layer;
• decorative coating.

Features of the preparation of the base

The traditional construction of a warm floor begins with preparatory work. To ensure a long service life of the finish coating, in the process of preparing the base, the following work is performed:

1. In place of future floors, a mineral pillow is laid, represented by broken bricks or expanded clay granules. The thickness of the drainage layer must be at least 15 cm;
2. Gravel or gravel 10-15 cm thick is poured from above;
3. Then the laid materials are well compacted.

Laying a mineral cushion helps to break capillarity, due to which ground moisture rises to the base and destroys it.

Preparation of the working mixture for concrete floors

To make a high-quality solution for pouring the screed, you need to strictly observe the proportions and order of adding the necessary components. To improve the thermal insulation qualities of the mixture, perlite can be added to its composition. The process of preparing the solution is implemented in two stages.

First stage:

1. 10 liters of clean water are poured into the concrete mixer;
2. Then about 2 buckets of expanded sand are poured;
3. The components are mixed;
4. Next, add 5 liters of cement grade M-300, not lower;
5. The mixture is well stirred;
6. Then add about 5 more liters of water;
7. Stir the solution until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

Can be improved if needed specifications composition by adding perlite to it. To do this, do the following:

1. 10 kg of perlite are poured into the previously prepared solution;
2. Add about 2-2.5 liters of water;
3. The components are mixed until the concrete mass turns into loose;
4. After 10 minutes, the components of the mixture are again well mixed.

Ultimately, a loose composition will be obtained, which in consistency will resemble plasticine. After that, a screed is made on the prepared base.

Filling the first layer

If the area of ​​​​the rough coating is small, the screed is made immediately on the entire site. To fill the screed over a large area, the room is conditionally divided into strips, processing each one in turn. How to lay the first layer of concrete mix?

1. The thickness of the "rough" screed must reach at least 12 cm;
2. The horizontality of the laid layer is checked with a level;
3. Level the mixture using the rule;
4. So that water does not accumulate on the surface of the finished floor, the screed is made with a slight slope towards the pit;
5. The slope of the screed must be at least 1 cm per meter of length.

Thermal and waterproofing of concrete floors

As soon as the screed hardens, you need to proceed to the stage of thermal and waterproofing of the coating. Before laying insulating materials, the concrete surface is checked for bulges, cracks and dents. If necessary, the defects on the coating close up.

As a waterproofing material, as a rule, the following are chosen:

• bituminous mastic;
• polyethylene film;
• roll roofing material.

After arranging waterproofing, it is necessary to make floor insulation. For these purposes can be used:

• mineral wool;
• polystyrene;
• penoplex;
• granulated expanded clay;
• foam concrete.

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer should be 10-15 cm. As practice shows, expanded clay is the optimal insulation for concrete surfaces. It does not absorb moisture, weighs little and also has good sound insulation.

Filling the finishing screed

Laying the finishing layer of the screed technologically differs little from the previous version. But in this case, the thickness of the screed can vary from 8 to 10 cm. It should be noted that in the process of pouring the mixture, it is necessary to monitor the observance of the slope towards the water collector.

And yet, the arrangement of floors in large and small rooms is slightly different. If the base area is large enough, to give the structure greater strength, it is worth laying a reinforcing mesh before pouring the screed. In this case, even with intensive use of the bath, the rough coating will not crack.

Features of wooden floors

Wooden flooring is a traditional type of coating that is used for arranging floors in a bath. Despite the hygroscopicity, this type of material is still in demand among consumers due to the following qualities:

• Wood is environmentally friendly and safe for health;
• The flooring has a low thermal conductivity, unlike concrete;
• Wooden flooring creates a more comfortable atmosphere in the room.

In addition, you can make a wooden base in just a few days, since the stage of “wet” work can be bypassed, which you cannot do when pouring the screed.

Laying wooden floors

How to lay wooden floors correctly? Mounting a wooden base is quite easy, but you need to take into account a lot of technological nuances. The whole process of arranging floors is divided into the following stages:

1. Construction of support posts. To install the supports, rather thick bars with a cross section of 15 cm are used. It is the racks that will experience the greatest load during the operation of the base of the floor covering. They are placed on metal or brick pillars, secured with steel brackets. When arranging floors in a bathhouse erected on a pile foundation, the lag is laid on a mortgage crown;
2. Underground installation. In the case of assembling leaking floors, a 20 cm layer of gravel or expanded clay is laid in the underground. If the soil is clayey and does not absorb moisture well, a reservoir is installed under the floor to collect runoff water, which by gravity flows into the sewer through a pipeline. If you need to make a non-leaking base, it is mandatory to insulate it (expanded clay, foam plastic). To ensure normal ventilation of the underground, they make ventilation holes for better air circulation;
3. Laying lag and finishing flooring. To arrange leaking floors, the logs are placed in random order, observing horizontality. When installing a non-leaking base, we make a slope from the log towards the pit. In the case of non-leaking floors, cranial blocks are nailed to the logs, on which draft boards are thrown. Then they put a layer of hydro and heat insulator. After that, the wooden crate is sheathed with a grooved board. Inside the "pie", between the finishing boards and the logs, there should be a gap of 10-12 cm for ventilation of the underground.

It is very problematic to build a bath with a wear-resistant floor, given the specific microclimate in the room. To increase the period of operation of the floor covering, during its installation it is worth considering such moments.

Despite the high temperatures in the steam room, below it rarely exceeds 30 degrees, but on the floor it is constantly high humidity. Therefore, when arranging the floor in such conditions, there are some peculiarities.

In this article, we will tell you about how the floor is made in the bath on the ground, the preparation process and the layout of the wooden floor.

Types of floors for a bath

In most cases, it is the floor made of wood that is chosen for: it is not slippery, it is cheaper, and it is easy to install.

Concrete types are usually chosen for public saunas, since from intensive use the wood would have to be changed every 2-3 years.

• A leaky wooden floor is made in cases where it is necessary for moisture to freely pass through the gaps between the boards and be removed from the subfloor to the outside. Compared with other types, this design has a simple construction technology. Such option is suitable only for warm regions, as it has no thermal insulation.
• Leak-proof wooden floors are made from tightly joined tongue-and-groove boards.. The slope of the floor in the bath is done towards the drain ladder, which will ensure the removal of moisture into the sewer system or drain pit.
  Such a floor cake in the bath allows you to make waterproofing, vapor barrier and insulation, which distinguishes it from the previous version.
  It does not make sense to make a non-leaking floor in the steam room, since the price of the structure increases greatly, and there will not be much water there. For ease of cleaning, you can make a two-sided slope of the floor.
• Concrete floor screed has an advantage over wooden species in high durability. A screed will last you 30-50 years, and a tree less than 10 years.
  Although the cost of its installation is even higher, in terms of performance, concrete outperforms wood.

floor construction

As a rule, the installation of the floor in the bath in the steam room is done on an elevation relative to the zero mark of the finishing floor. It is enough to raise it by 7-10 cm and the heat will be better preserved in the steam room.

In the washing department, on the contrary, the height of the floor in the bath is made lower so that water does not penetrate into other rooms.

Basic materials

It is believed that in the question of which floor is better in the bath, larch is out of competition. In terms of hardness and wear resistance, it is comparable to oak, and from moisture it only becomes stronger. The only disadvantage of its use is the high cost.

Similar boards made of pine or spruce will cost 2-3 times cheaper. If it is possible to use larch for moderate money, then it is better to choose it. If not, then you can buy grooved boards of birch, pine, spruce, fir, alder. Draft floor - in the baths can be made of pine to save money.

An important rule to follow is to lay only dry boards. Raw wood during operation will greatly change its size and shape.

The thicker the board, the more it will deform. Boards with a thickness of 21-25 mm will change the least size, but they will sag. To fix this, you can lay the logs more often. The best option are boards of 35 mm with a width of 12 cm.

For insulation, mineral wool and polystyrene foam are most often used.

Hydro and vapor barrier is made of a vapor barrier membrane, such as Izospan. Its advantage is that it passes moisture only in one direction. Due to this, on the one hand, moisture does not pass inside, and on the other hand, excess condensate and steam are removed. This allows you to keep the insulation always dry and it does not lose its characteristics.

Also in this case we will use:

• Bar 70*100 mm;
• Logs 50*180 mm;
• Cranial bars 40 * 40 mm;
• Plywood or cutting boards 20-25 mm thick to make a double floor.

Dismantling the old floor

If you are re-laying the old coating, then first of all you need to dismantle the old floor of the frame bath.

• It will be necessary to remove the top layer of soil, about 25 centimeters, to get rid of the fungus that has got into the ground. Old boards should be burned immediately.

Advice!
Concrete walls can be heated by a building gas gun to destroy all the fungus.
Additionally, it must be treated with Anti-mold to remove the remaining pores of the fungus.

• Below the floor level, an elastic coating waterproofing is made.
• A layer of sandy backfill is laid on the ground, leveled, and carefully rammed.
• Then fiberglass and Izospan vapor barrier are laid on the sand. From above they need to be sprinkled with another layer of sand. This is necessary in order to protect the bottom of the floorboards from moisture, fungus and decay. Sheets of insulation between each other must be glued with adhesive tape.

Advice!
If a rat hole was found in the foundation, then it must be sealed with concrete with the addition of liquid and broken glass.

Pie and gender features

In this example, the floors in the bath on the ground are used. To obtain the desired level of elevation, beams 70 * 100 are mounted on the posts before laying the log.

They will take on part of the load, evenly distribute it, increase strength and simplify the leveling of the base.

• First of all, waterproofing from two layers of roofing material is laid on the foundation and brick pillars.
• Then the retaining beams are laid. Their edges will lie on the foundation, and 1-3 columns support them in the center.
• Logs are attached to the corners on top of the beams. They must be cut from both sides in length to the center by 2 cm to create a slope.
• Nailed to the bottom of the lag cranial bars, forming an inverted "T". They are needed for fixing the subfloor, so there is no need for special strength here, any self-tapping screws or nails will do.
• The subfloor boards are laid, and a vapor barrier membrane with an overlap of 20-30 cm is attached on top of them. Then it will need to be glued together with the waterproofing of the walls.

• On the subfloor and closed with a vapor barrier. It is attached to the logs with a stapler. The joints are sealed with tape.
• At the end, the flooring of the finishing floor from the grooved board is attached. To hide the attachment points, they are fastened with self-tapping screws into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees.

Note!
Under the finishing floor, it is necessary to provide a ventilation gap of 2-3 cm.
To do this, you can use higher logs, or stuff additional bars of the counter-lattice on them after attaching the vapor barrier to the insulation.

Production of retaining posts

To eliminate the deflection of the support beams from a high load, you need to make additional supports (chairs) in weak places. Naturally, the center of the beams and the place under the stove will be the weakest places. Chairs can be made of wood, brick, concrete.

Instructions on how to make concrete columns with your own hands:

• To make concrete posts, mark the places for their installation and dig holes 40 cm deep.
• At the bottom of the pit, you need to pour a 25 cm layer of sand and gravel for the substrate and compact them well.
• From the boards, make a formwork approximately 25 * 25 cm (1 brick in size) and up to a height. On the inner walls lay the formwork roofing material.

Advice!
You can make a fixed formwork of columns from asbestos-cement, sewer PVC pipes or twisted roofing felt.

• Tie a reinforcing cage with wire in each column of bars with a diameter of 10 mm.

• Prepare a solution of cement, sand and fine gravel (in proportions 1:3:5).
• Before pouring, make a mortgage in the center of the column for easy fastening of the beams. It is best made from a threaded stud.
• Pour the columns to the same level and leave them to dry for at least a few days. They will gain full strength only after a month.

Subfloor installation

Advice!
Treat all wooden elements with an antiseptic before starting work.

• Lay and secure the support beams to the foundation. Pay attention to the fact that a temperature gap of 1 cm is maintained from the edges of the logs and beams at the junction with the wall. They are attached to the foundation with anchor bolts 12 * 140 mm.
• To make it easier to cut the remaining joists at the same angle for the drain, use one of them as a template.

• When laying the subfloor, you can use almost any board, since it is needed only for laying thermal insulation. At the same time, be sure to treat them with an antiseptic anyway and remove the bark before laying.
• We attach the waterproofing to the lags on the stapler every 10-15 cm with an overlap and an overlap on the walls.
• The insulation is laid close to each other, with offset joints. Mineral wool should not be crumpled, but cut exactly to the size of the cells.

• Then, in the same way, we attach another layer of vapor barrier to the logs.

Finished floor laying

• We fasten the first sheathing board with an indent from the wall 1-2 cm from above to the self-tapping screw. Try to make it as close to the wall as possible to hide the hat with the baseboard.
• We fasten the subsequent boards in a groove to the previous one. For their tight docking with each other, make a doboynik with a spike. Through it, you can knock out the boards with a hammer, without fear of damaging the docking elements.
• If even stronger docking is required, then make pegs with a spike. By nailing metal staples to the joists, you can use them to weddle the boards, as shown in the photo.

• To hide the heads of the self-tapping screws, all subsequent boards are fastened from the side of the groove, screwing the self-tapping screws there to the logs at an angle. To ensure that the boards are pressed tightly and do not crack, you need to drill holes before that.
• When installing the last board, it will need to be cut to width with a circular saw. You need to fix it in the same way as the first one, with self-tapping screws from above.

Conclusion

Making a wooden floor frame bath, you can be sure that it will last for at least 10 years of active use. If you want to make a floor heating system, put a tiled floor in the bath, make a drain, then you need to make a screed.

The video in this article shows self-laying bathroom floors.

Once a person becomes the master country house, he has a quite predictable desire to have a bathhouse as well. This building is very easy to construct with your own hands, and you do not have to spend large financial resources. When building a bath, close attention should be paid to the floor structure - a well-mounted coating will ensure the outflow of water, and will not rot, and will not stop functioning ahead of time. In addition, a pleasant appearance will always please the eye.

In order to adequately cope with the task, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the types of flooring and the specifics of their application.

Peculiarities

It is very important to pay attention to the design and implementation of the floor structure in the bath. If everything is done with high quality, it will be possible to provide high comfort to everyone in the room, as well as the durability of its service and versatility.

The peculiarity of the floor in the bath is that it performs several equivalent functions. Firstly, the coating ensures the safety of movement of a person who is at the junction of "two elements". Secondly, in the steam room area, it is responsible for removing excess water. Thirdly, it is an important part of the whole structure of the sauna house. It is worth adding that the floor also contributes to the retention of heat in the room.

Most often, the floor in the bathhouse is made of wood and concrete. Sometimes a brick is also used, which is characterized by high cost and a complex installation procedure.

Floor device

To design a steam room, one of two basic types of floor is used: leaking and non-leaking. The leaky one is always represented by a wooden structure made of floorboards, which is mounted on a supporting lag system. As for the logs, they are mounted at a certain height on the support pillars, lower crown or concrete screed. In order for the water to descend unhindered, a tiny gap is left between the rugs.

A non-leaking floor is made of wood or concrete. It is a monolithic coating with a small slope, at the bottom of which a hole is cut, connected to the sewerage system. Through it, the used water is sent to the drain hole.

Both varieties show certain advantages and disadvantages. A leaky floor collects pretty soon, but just as quickly it fails. It is worth adding that if it is not insulated, then the temperature in the steam room will be problematically low.

The non-leaking layer demonstrates a complex structure, which allows for high-quality waterproofing and thermal insulation. In the event of a breakdown, you will have to completely remove the final layer, while for the leaking one, removing only part of the rugs is enough.

materials

According to experts, it is best to make the base of the floor from concrete, especially if there is a desire to build a capital building of brick or stone, with several rooms, which will be used throughout the year. The concrete floor must be supplemented with a water drainage system and provided with waterproofing. This design is strong and durable, it is not afraid of water, steam, or temperature changes. Concrete floors can be used for up to 45 years without additional repairs.

However, there are also certain disadvantages. Firstly, they are cold, so you have to insulate with an additional coating, for example, tiled or bulk. Secondly, concrete floors require significant investments, both financial and labor. Concrete floors can be poured in three stages.

If a small bathhouse is being built, which is operated only during the summer season, then it makes sense to choose a wooden floor. It is quickly and easily built from environmentally friendly materials (preferably a larch board), looks very attractive and creates a unique atmosphere of an old Russian sauna in the steam room.

Unfortunately, such structures are not durable, because in any case, wood will lose its original characteristics, being treated with water and temperature changes. From this it follows that it is worth being ready to re-lay the floor after a certain period of time.

When installing wooden floors, it is recommended to choose coniferous trees- fir, larch, pine and others. Since such wood contains a large amount of resin, it will be less susceptible to moisture, and the released essential oils will positively affect the health of those taking water procedures. It is worth adding that softwood floorboards, when wet, will not become slippery, which means they will prevent falling.

Wooden structures are divided into leaking and non-leaking. The pouring floor does not have a heater, therefore it is suitable for bathhouses located in the southern regions, or for options operated exclusively in the warm season.

A non-leaking floor is built from two layers of boards. The upper one, which will go on top of the lag, is preferably constructed from a pine or hardwood board, and the lower, dry one, can be equipped with a heater.

Logs are installed on the embedded beam in the case of a column foundation, or on the edge in a situation with a strip foundation. Contact points are insulated with roofing material coated with bitumen, eurobitumen or similar waterproofing material.

If the bath begins to stand on screw piles, then a hanging, leak-proof plank floor will be a good option. An additional layer of insulation will help you use the bath at any time of the year.

Wooden floors should not be painted or treated chemical solutions. This is unlikely to add durability, but it will deprive the boards of the opportunity to breathe and fill the steam room with a unique coniferous aroma. The most acceptable solution would be to carefully sand the boards before starting construction. You can also cover the floor with a heat-resistant water-based varnish that can withstand up to 120 degrees. The elastic coating resists moisture, fumes and dirt from penetrating into the boards.

The two-layer composition is applied to the sanded and disinfected coating using a paint brush. The whole procedure is carried out in a ventilated room at a temperature of 5-30 degrees. Only after the varnish has dried after 2-3 hours is it allowed to start laying the floor covering.

Preparatory work

Having decided to create a floor in the bath with your own hands, you need to start with high-quality preparatory work. The owner must deal with the type of soil that is present on his territory. If sand, then this is the best option, because in order to equip spaces for outgoing drains, you only have to fill in gravel 25 cm thick. If there is soil that does not filter well, for example, clay, then you will have to make a tray for moving liquid waste outside the bath .

In the case of large-scale bath buildings, it is also worth considering the supporting pillars in advance. Under each column with a cross section of 25 cm, a small foundation is prepared or sand is rammed. An asbestos pipe with the required diameter, buried in the ground, will become a good support. Soil is rammed around, and then cement mortar is poured into the finished formwork. Before installation, the lag columns are aligned.

Before installing the floor, it is also necessary to remove excess rubbish, roots, large stones and the like from the ground. If a inner part bearing blocks are clearly damp, then work will have to be postponed until they are partially dry.

Mounting

A concrete floor is a conventional screed made from a solution of sand, cement and special fillers such as crushed stone, gravel or natural marble chips. Ready mixes are sold in all hardware stores in dry form and are completely ready for use. The mixture is diluted with ordinary water, according to the step-by-step guide, mixed with a perforator with a suitable nozzle and used for its intended purpose.

If the screed will be the final coating or light boards will be fixed to it, no additional ingredients need to be added to the mixture. If the concrete is to be covered with tiles, then it is recommended to introduce gypsum and anhydrite into the initial composition. You can make your own or purchase suitable option in the shop.

The concrete floor is mounted on logs or directly on the ground. If follow step by step instructions, then first of all it is necessary to create a system for removing water. It is a construction of a small hole dug in the ground and two pipes. The pit measures 40 x 40 x 30 centimeters and its walls and bottom are to be covered with concrete. On one side of the hole, a pipe with a cross section of 20 cm is inserted, which will go into the gutter or into an autonomous septic tank. The second pipe will connect the pit to the bath itself.

It is recommended to provide it with a valve to prevent unpleasant odors from entering the steam room. In addition, it is recommended to make “vents” from asbestos pipes in the basement of the bath. They will help to eliminate unpleasant "olfactory effects".

At the second stage, it is necessary to prepare a platform on which the screed will be placed. To create a "pit", the top layer of soil is removed, then sand, brick breakage, gravel and crushed stone are poured into the resulting recess. A layer of the first three components should reach a thickness of 25 cm, and gravel - 10. Everything is well compacted and poured with a mixture of sand and cement, up to 6 centimeters thick.

It is important that the concrete layer is sloping towards the prepared hole with pipes.

After the mortar has dried, thermal insulation and waterproofing are laid. Mineral wool and foam plastic or vapor barrier and felt insulation are used as insulation. Roofing material or ordinary polyethylene film can act as a waterproofing agent. The last material is placed under the thermal insulation and on top of it. At the next stage, a metal grid is mounted for high-quality reinforcement.

Finally, from the far corner to the exit from the steam room, the main screed is poured. Immediately you need to level the solution with a trowel and, if necessary, correct the flaws, which will require the help of another person. The floor will dry out for 2-3 days, and then boards or tiles can already be mounted on top. The trim is also laid at an inclination of 2 cm in the direction of the drain. If the concrete is chosen for the final floor, then it needs to be processed: leveled and sanded. Drain holes for comfort and aesthetic appeal should be closed with wooden bars.

The concrete floor is quite cold, so it is also recommended to prepare special wooden gratings for people to walk on. These grilles are dried after each visit to the bath. The same designs are used in the presence of ceramic tiles. They allow you to limit slipping on the floor and excessive heating of the tile.

The floor in a wooden bath is created by two different ways. The first allows you to make a leaky coating, and the second - non-leaking. In the first case, suitable for beginners, a deck of boards is mounted at intervals of approximately 3 mm to remove liquids. Through them, the water moves immediately into the hole for drainage. The dominant trump card is the fact that such a floor can be removed and dried, which means that it will not rot and can be used for a longer time.

The plot of land is leveled and sprinkled with gravel. Next, a usually clay surface with a pit is formed. If the choice is given to a cement screed, then it must be provided with waterproofing. Wooden logs, which should be pre-treated, are mounted on supports through a gap of 50 cm - so the air can freely blow over the structure from all sides. Then the flooring is laid, leaving gaps of 2-3 mm between the walls, floor and boards. A slope for water drainage is arranged under a wooden deck, for which gravel is used. The descending water will be directed to the filter well.

Such a design can last up to 6 years if the coating is periodically dried. It is recommended to collect it from larch or coniferous species, but in no case from oaks, which are very slippery when wet. The boards should be 4–5 cm thick. Usually, leaking floors are used in summer cottages, where the owners come periodically during the summer season.

The second type of wooden floors is non-leaking with a drain, which is chosen by the owners of year-round heating bathhouses. The floor is placed on a concrete screed with a slope, which is formed so that the water drains without problems and is directed to a sump adapted for this. These coatings can last up to 12 years, due to the presence of draft and heat-insulating layers.

First of all, a hole is made with pipes according to the algorithm given for concrete floors. Then the site is prepared, and, if desired, a concrete screed is poured. The floor base is covered with roofing felt for waterproofing and expanded clay foam for insulation.

The logs are mounted on solid bedside tables, which are cut out of reinforced concrete and decorated with brick or concrete stands, through a gap of 50 centimeters. Then the intermediate base is installed. The height at which the lags are planned is determined depending on the height of the embedded beam (with a columnar foundation) or concrete "tapes" (with strip foundation). Logs are placed in parallel with the narrow side of the steam room away from the walls of the bath - it is recommended to consider a gap of 3–4 cm. Cuts should also be made on the logs to achieve an inclined surface.

A water collector with dimensions of 40 x 40 cm and a depth of 30 cm is placed between the supports and compacted with concrete mortar or clay. At a height of 2 cm from the bottom, a pipe is mounted at an angle so that the liquid calmly enters the cesspool.

The "lower" floor of low-grade boards, fixed from the bottom of the beams, is covered with another layer of insulation and roofing material, as well as vapor barrier, which will protect all previous levels from liquids. After that, with a slope of 10 degrees, a finishing layer of tongue-and-groove boards is mounted. The mounting groove must fit inside the structure. The slope occurs due to the fact that the clearing in the lag increases on the side that goes to the collection point.

It is important that the boards adjoin closely, and the coating is attached to the joists with screws and nails at an angle of 45 degrees. The boards are selected with a thickness of 3-5 cm. The foundation for the stove-heater is mounted after installing the log, but before laying the flooring.

Upon completion of all these works, the room is dried, the boards are finally nailed, and the floor itself is supplemented with skirting boards. The plinth should be mounted so that the flowing moisture cannot be under the slats. This means that there should not be any gaps, and the sheathing should lie down on the baseboard itself.

Warm floor

The warm floor in the bathhouse allows not only to achieve the optimal microclimate in the room, but also to dry it with high quality. Thus, there is an extension of the duration of the operation of the finish and lower floors. The underfloor heating system is actually expensive, but it creates additional comfort for its owners.

To design a heated system in a bath, you can use two methods: water pipes or an electric cable. The first option is rather complicated in terms of installation. Water pipes are heavy, especially under water pressure. This means that you will have to make reinforced reinforcement of the floor screed. It is a closed pipeline system through which, due to the operation of the pump, the liquid heat carrier moves. Usually it is water, but antifreeze, ethylene glycol and other varieties are also allowed. In order to equip such a system, you will need a boiler, pump, plastic or copper pipes, as well as fittings.

The design is complex, so it will be problematic to identify the cause of the leak, especially if there is a concrete screed. And in case of serious damage, you will have to change the entire system. The disadvantages of the water floor in the steam room also include:

• installation complexity - many bends, it is difficult to maintain the necessary gaps between the pipes;
• the use of a water pump is a plentiful waste of energy resources;
• difficult temperature control.

There are two ways of laying a water floor: concrete and flooring. The first is similar to laying electronic cables, but is thicker. The pipe laying step reaches 40 cm. Sharp bends and kinks that interfere with the circulation of the coolant should not be observed. The second is carried out on a special basis made of wood or polystyrene foam. In addition, a warm floor can also be mounted on a wooden surface.

For the installation of a floor with water heating, pipes made of metal-plastic, polyethylene or steel are most often used. Their laying is carried out in two ways: "snake" or "snail". The first method is available only to professionals, as it is considered very laborious. Its main disadvantage is that the floor surface experiences different temperature conditions. At the entrance, they are usually the highest, and the farther away, the colder. The fact is that the water supply occurs from one side, and leaves - to the other. The second laying method allows you to evenly distribute heat throughout the floor.

For the construction of the electrical system, factory "cable floors", film infrared models or rod infrared mats are used. Very often there are concerns about the safety of using an electric heated floor in a steam room or washroom. The owners are worried that due to a breakdown there will be a threat of electric shock. However, this option is impossible, because the possibility of the appearance of liquid in the system tends to zero. The design warms up under the action of high temperatures and dry air, and even in the event of a breakdown, moisture simply does not have time to get inside.

Electrical cables are quite simple and in every way easy to install. They are sold ready-made "submarines", which remains to be placed on the floor surface and poured with concrete. The cable must be laid on a mesh base. This system has no special problems with repair and installation. In addition, it is equipped with temperature sensors.

Infrared electric underfloor heating is said to be the most affordable and easiest way to provide auxiliary heating. Thermal film, sold in rolls, is rolled out on the coating, and strips with heating elements are glued to the base with a primitive adhesive tape. There is no need for a cement screed, nor for additional waterproofing and thermal insulation.

Tile adhesive is immediately poured on top of the film, and tiles are mounted, usually from porcelain stoneware or clinker. The floor covering can be placed directly on the warm layer, but the craftsmen still prefer to leave it between the film and floor cladding insulating layer.

Infrared floors are completely sealed and electrically safe and can be used even on floors with wooden components. Maximum temperature heating is 45 degrees and is very comfortable for visitors.

Elements of a rod infrared heat-insulated floor are also called mats. The heating elements in them are rods that are attached to the power wires. Rod “joins” are made in parallel, so the failure of one rod will not lead to disruption of the entire system, which is very thoughtful. The core floor is mounted in tile adhesive or cement screed.

Conventional underfloor heating is placed on thermal insulation, then leveled with a screed, on top of which the final coating is placed. Professionals also recommend not saving on waterproofing, which can prevent condensation from appearing during the work process. As a waterproofing, a simple polyethylene film is used, as a heater - mineral wool, expanded clay, expanded polystyrene and penofol.

Do not forget that when choosing a warm floor, it is extremely important to correctly approach the purchase of the final floor covering. If it is a tile that heats up quickly, you will have to put wooden grates on top.

Design

There are a huge number of options for finishing bath rooms: steam rooms, washing rooms, rest rooms. However, the design of the flooring is not particularly original - as a rule, it is concise and functional, and other decorative elements are responsible for the aesthetic component. Usually the choice depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities. However, the main criteria are the use natural materials, minimalism and convenience.

The following materials are suitable for the floor:

• wood- looks natural, creates the right atmosphere, affordable and environmentally friendly;
• concrete- durable, but aesthetically unattractive, and the problem of cold is still acute;

• tile- lots of color solutions, it is possible to pick up non-slip models;
• porcelain stoneware- looks aesthetically pleasing, but slippery, so if applied, it is better for a rest room, matte or polished.

The traditional finishing of the steam room involves the use of lining made of hardwood as wall covering. Such walls warm up quickly, but their temperature is considered comfortable for casual touches. In no case should pine lining be used to decorate a steam room, since this base, when heated, produces toxic substances. For the ceiling, a lining made of class A or B linden is suitable. the best option finishes.

The floor in the steam room can be made of wood or concrete, and a block of tiles can be placed near the stove. If it is decided to cover the entire surface with tiles, you will have to take care of wooden grates that will not heat up.

Most often, preference is given wood flooring. The interior should be lively, natural and without the presence of synthetic materials.

If preference is given to a steam room - a sauna, then you can use a variety of design solutions. For example, combine lining with stone, and brick with granite slabs and a block house. However, for the floor, only wooden coverings are again recommended.

For the washroom, as a rule, combinations of wood and ceramic tiles are chosen. For example, it can be softwood, which has high water-repellent characteristics and an attractive appearance.

The tile must be anti-slip and retain comfortable temperature. Otherwise, a special mat is required.

In the vestibule or rest room, aesthetic combinations of porcelain stoneware, natural stone, wallpaper and plaster are used. The design is carried out by a harmonious combination of furniture, accessories and finishing materials. There are no special requirements, the only thing is that the rest room should set in the right mood and allow you to spend time comfortably.

So that the process of installing the floor in the bath goes “without a hitch”, experts recommend following a number of regulations.

• For insulation, you should choose materials that are least responsive to elevated temperatures and humidity. That is, it is better to simultaneously organize not only heat, but also hydro and vapor barrier.
• The bars should be laid correctly so that the liquid has the opportunity to descend along the joint line.
• If there is a possibility of moisture filling the space under the floor, it is necessary to lay a gap from the internal backfill on top of the soil to wooden base. Its size reaches 15 centimeters.
• Fiberglass floor pads on waterproofing will make movement on the floor inaudible. They are made in the form of a thick tape, which is extremely convenient.

• wooden materials must be treated with an antiseptic. It is desirable to use a composition that can destroy all microorganisms and prevent damage to boards and beams. In addition, all wooden details pre-dried or purchased already in this form. If this is not done, the material will curl during operation, cracks will appear and the shelf life of the floor will be significantly reduced.
• If it is necessary to arrange ventilation, it is important to organize its correct output. Usually a separate pipe path follows the wall to the attic. If the foundation is monolithic, then it is recommended to make holes that will connect the ventilation gaps with the air outside.
• If the area of ​​​​the steam room is large, then one drain will not cope with all the water. It will be necessary to think about a few so that the material does not rot too quickly.
• Pouring floors not only eliminate moisture, but also lead to heat loss. In this situation, it is necessary to insulate the foundation and the basement of the log house, and place the sauna stove below the floor level.

• The floor in the steam room rises relative to ground level. And in a separate washing room, on the contrary, it should be lower than in other rooms.
• It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap under the floor. It can be installed with a height of 10-15 cm.
• It is worth mounting the finishing floor so that there is an angle of inclination in the direction that is directed along the length of the boards, and not in width. This will help extend the life of the products, since the direction of water is also one of the causes in the processes of decay.

• To prevent the board from bursting when screwing in the screw, you need to work at an angle of 45 degrees.
• In no case should you use linoleum, laminate and other synthetic coatings in the baths, even in the rest room. In any case, such materials will begin to heat up and release substances that can poison the body. In the dressing room, such a coating should be placed on top of a special flooring that makes it possible to dry the floors.
• Selected boards must be edged or tongue-and-groove. Their thickness varies from 25 to 30 mm.

Beautiful examples

Qualitatively processed concrete screed on the floor will go well with wooden walls and ceiling. The materials for the latter can be boards and lining, forming an original combination. Large window, laconic stove and simple wooden shelves perfectly complement the interior.

The tiled area under the heater can become a bright accent of the steam room and, echoing the washing room, combine two interiors into one. You can add brutality to the room if you replace it with natural or artificial natural stone. He, in turn, will require inserts on the walls of the steam room itself.

Steam room - the main branch of the bath, has special requirements. The room should perfectly retain heat, not be afraid of dampness and high temperature. Currently, there are a large number of building materials and technologies that allow developers to choose an acceptable option for themselves, taking into account personal preferences and financial capabilities. But not only this affects the optimal choice of floor in the steam room.

As mentioned above, during the selection, the developer takes into account the desires and possibilities. But professional builders do not recommend focusing only on these factors, there are several more very important points.

Foundation type

Three types of foundations are used for baths: screw or concrete pile, columnar and shallow tape.

1. Concrete or metal pile foundations it is recommended to use on sloping construction sites and waterlogged unstable soils. A feature of pile structures is a large open space between the floor and the ground. This situation has positive and negative sides. The presence of a distance between the floor and the ground improves the ventilation of the underground space. This has a positive effect on the humidity regime, wooden structures dry quickly, thereby increasing the operating time of the floor in the steam room. Another plus is that in most cases it is not necessary to make special water receivers, it is poured onto the ground, the main part is immediately absorbed, a small amount can flow outside the perimeter of the bath. The negative side - the floors are quickly cooled, the surface is cold, especially in winter. It is necessary to take special construction measures to increase the comfort of staying in the steam room.

   

   

2. columnar. The cheapest options for foundations for a bath. Most often, the underground space is open. The positive and negative sides are the same as those of the columnar ones.

   

3. Shallow-depth tape. Stronger constructions withstand significant forces. They make it possible to build large baths with various premises. The disadvantages include the complexity of arranging the floors in the steam room. The fact is that the vents provided in the tape cannot provide the same effective ventilation as a completely open space. This worsens the operating conditions of the floors in the steam room; in order to prevent the occurrence of negative processes, it is necessary to thoroughly impregnate all wooden elements with antiseptics. Any impregnation - chemical composition that adversely affect living organisms. From a biological point of view, a person is an ordinary living organism, and also reacts negatively to aggressive compounds. But these are not all problems. In such baths under steam rooms, you should definitely do sewer systems for water drainage. Additional work complicates and increases the cost of the floors in the steam room, requires highly qualified specialists.

The above features various types foundations must be taken into account when choosing the option of floors in the steam room, regardless of the wishes of the developers.

Prices for screw piles

screw pile

Soil type

Only two types of soils influence the technology of building floors in a steam room.

1. clayey do not absorb moisture, all water for a long period of time is on their surface. As a result, the humidity in the underground space is high, and the processes of wood decay are accelerated. Under steam rooms on such soils, it is necessary to install a water drainage system.
2. sandy soils quickly absorb moisture and can take a large amount of it. Such physical parameters make it possible to simplify the installation of floors under the steam room and washing room as much as possible.

The climatic zone of the bath

Everything is simple here - colder climate, the warmer the floors in the steam room should be. It is strongly not recommended to install cement floors in the northern regions.

The specified information should be taken into account when choosing a floor option in the bath, but it is not enough to make an informed final decision. You need to learn more about the features of the floors, their pros and cons.

Types of floors in the steam room

This parameter also affects decision making, it should be kept in mind and compared with the type of foundations, physical characteristics soils and climatic zones of the location of the building.

Table. Types of floors in the steam room.

Types of floors in the steam room	Brief description of architectural features and operational characteristics
	The simplest and cheapest design, all the old baths had such floors in the steam rooms. Between the boards, gaps about 5 mm wide are left, the slope of the flooring is not required. Water flows to the ground and soaks into it. There is no need to be afraid that streams will appear near the bathhouse, they do not wash in the steam room, but take a steam bath. Accordingly, little water is consumed. The disadvantage of leaky floors is the low surface temperature. But this problem is not critical for several reasons. Firstly, the legs do not stay on such a floor for a long time, you just need to reach the shelf installed on a hill. Secondly, a short stay on a cold surface does not cause a cold, but hardens the body, improves functioning. immune system. Thirdly, if the soles of the feet are very sensitive to low temperatures, then you can make wooden lattices and walk on them.
	The boards are tightly pulled together with social devices, the side surfaces can be flat or have a tenon / groove connection. Such floors necessarily have a slope to one side and a drain. The slope is small, about a centimeter per linear meter. The drain is given underground with a further tap outside the perimeter of the steam room. These are more complex floor designs in the steam room, but they are superior to leaking ones in terms of their performance.
	Used only in exclusive expensive baths. The base is a cement-sand mixture or concrete, there is no underground. Be sure to arrange a separate drain, the finish coat is ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware. Professional builders strongly do not recommend installing such floors in a steam room with a high air temperature. The fact is that the tile has a high thermal conductivity, the hot floor quickly gives off heat, it can be too hot for the feet. In terms of cost and complexity of manufacturing, they occupy a leading position among all options for floors in a steam room.

For traditional wooden baths do better. Larch is considered the best breed, it is not afraid of moisture, in direct contact with water, strength increases. The disadvantage of larch is its high cost. In this regard, most developers are advised to make floors in the steam room from coniferous wood.

Step-by-step instructions for making a floor in a steam room

For example, we will consider a rather complex and expensive floor in a steam room - non-leaking with insulation. This option is used in cases where there are small children in the family, for them it is necessary to create increased comfort of staying indoors.

Initial data. The steam room is being renovated, the floor is being changed due to the presence of cracks that created inconvenience for small children. Production material - coniferous boards, the front surface will be covered with a special resistant varnish. Durable waterproof extruded polystyrene foam is used as a heater. Work on laying the floor in the steam room is done in two stages. At the first stage, the old coating is dismantled, a revision of the condition of the wooden elements and current repairs are made. At the second stage, a new floor is laid in the steam room.

Dismantling

Step 1. Remove skirting boards around the perimeter of the room. Undermine them carefully to protect the surfaces of the boards from mechanical damage use wooden linings.

Step 2 Unscrew the screws securing the floorboards.

Practical advice. Never use black self-tapping screws, they are very afraid of moisture and quickly oxidize. Oxidized hats not only worsen the appearance of the steam room floor, such hardware is then very difficult to unscrew. Most often, the boards have to be torn off, and after that large holes remain. Problem areas must be patched up, it is long and difficult. In addition, seal marks will always be visible.

Step 3 Inspect floor structures for mold and rot, if problems are identified, they must be eliminated.

Step 4 Remove the sex lags. Damaged areas must be removed from the surface of the lumber, for this you can use an electric planer. It is recommended to wipe the surface of the walls under the skirting boards with any antiseptic. The lags must be impregnated with the same composition.

On this preparatory work finished, you can start laying the new steam room floor.

Important. During the construction of the bath, be sure to make effective ventilation of the premises. After taking water procedures, the steam room and washing room should be dried as soon as possible, this cannot be achieved only by opening the doors. High humidity and high temperature are the main enemies of lumber. No amount of impregnation will prevent boards from rotting if they are constantly wet and warm.

New flooring in the steam room

The floor will be made with a slope, draining the water into the tray. All lumber should be impregnated. As long-term practice shows, the best antiseptic is used car oil. If a specific smell is alarming, then the logs can be held outside for several days; in sunny, warm weather, it will quickly disappear. In addition, in our version, the floor of the steam room is solid, which is an additional guarantee of the absence of unpleasant odors during the procedures.

Step 1. Determine the level of the floor and the angle of the boards. Tilt direction from front door to the opposite wall of the steam room. You can make marks using an elementary water level or using a modern laser device. The second option allows you to make markup faster, but not every amateur has such professional tools at home.

The upper plane of the plinth should be about five millimeters below the threshold, taking into account its width, mark the lines for the location of the floor boards. On the opposite side, do the same operations, do not forget about the slope.

Step 2 Fasten the lags according to the marks. It is much easier to fix them with special perforated metal corners. They perfectly hold a lot of weight and make it possible, if necessary, to correct the mistakes made. The corners are fixed to the side and bottom surfaces of the log, due to this, the reliability of the structure increases.

Perforated corners have many holes, but this does not mean that a self-tapping screw must be screwed into each. On one side, no more than three pieces are required. Extra holes are provided so that you can choose the optimal place for fixing the screws. There are knots and cracks on the sawn timber; hardware is not installed here.

Practical advice. The surface of the log is strictly horizontal, and the floorboards are at an angle. In this regard, they do not come into contact with the entire surface of the supports. Don't worry, it's much better for a couple. The fact is that the floor does not have large loads, the boards will not sag. And the presence of a small gap between them and the lags accelerates the drying process of lumber, which has a positive effect on the duration of operation.

The lags are much easier and faster to set up on the rope. To do this, fix the first and last exactly on the marks, pull the rope between them and use it as a template for attaching all the others.

Step 3 Proceed with the installation of the water tray. Some models must first be adapted for a steam room. To do this, a grinder with a disk for metal cuts off extra planes that prevent it from being securely fixed to wooden lags. The master must choose a specific refinement scheme on the spot, taking into account all the features of the steam room floor. The purpose of refining a standard tray is that the boards should fit snugly against its surfaces, the appearance of leaks should be excluded.

Check the position of the floor plane again before installing the tray. From the opposite wall, it is recommended to place the tray on the entire surface of one board; for this, it is laid perpendicular to the rest. It is much easier to lay one whole board perpendicular than to use many short pieces. This should be considered at the stage of measurements and preparation of lumber.

To drain water from the receiving tray, lead pipes to the receiver. They can be brought outside, or you can install the receiver inside the steam room. How it's done?

1. Prepare a container. The volume depends on the expected amount of water, but in the vast majority of cases, a plastic or metal barrel of one hundred liters is enough.
2. Dig a hole of the appropriate size in the corner of the room, install several metal bars or corners in diameter at the bottom. Capacity will be based on them.
3. Turn the barrel upside down and gently lower it into the hole. Fill the gaps between the container with sand or earth.
4. Make holes in it and attach drain pipes to them.

Step 4 Nail slats or pieces of boards for the crate (subfloor) to the bottom of the log. Insulation plates will be laid on them. It is needed in order to increase the comfort of staying in the steam room for young children. Wooden slats should also be impregnated with any solution from decay.

Step 5 It is recommended to prepare the floor boards in advance in length. If there are problems with the dimensions of the bath (the angles are not equal to 90 °), then the length of each board will have to be adjusted separately. To facilitate further installation, fitted boards should be numbered.

Practical advice. It is more profitable to prepare the boards before installing the insulation layer: it is dangerous to move along it, it creates significant restrictions on movement.

Do not forget that the end of each board must fit snugly into the groove of the drain tray. Work on fitting the floor will have to be done manually, carefully use carpentry tools. Never violate safety regulations. Professional builders say that tools should not be feared, otherwise it will be difficult to work. But they must be respected, the only way to prevent injury.

Step 6 Install insulation in niches. For a steam room, a thickness of five centimeters is enough. It may seem to inexperienced developers that this is not enough, because all building codes and regulations recommend a thickness of the insulation layer of at least ten centimeters. In regions with a cold climate, this parameter increases to 25 cm. The recommendations are correct, but only for residential premises, those in which people are constantly. The stay in the steam room is short. During this time, a layer of insulation 5 cm will not have time to warm up to its full thickness, there will be no loss of active thermal energy. And after everyone has accepted water procedures, heat loss does not matter.

The gaps between the insulation and wooden structures must be carefully foamed. It is recommended to use ordinary mounting foam, it is inexpensive, and the positive effect of the application is significant. If there is no practice of foaming, then it is better to learn a little, and then get to work.

Practical advice. If the amount of material is calculated correctly, then the protruding foam does not interfere with fixing the floor boards in the steam room. Cut off the excess should only be in exceptional cases. The fact is that during solidification, the pores close, water does not get inside the foam. And after cutting off the excess, air pores open, moisture calmly penetrates into the thickness of the foam. The negative consequences of such a situation are well known to all.

Step 7 Start laying boards on the floor, pay attention to the previously made numbering. If the boards are dry and even, then no problems arise. If they are due high humidity or improper storage warped, then each will have to be pulled together. This is not very difficult to do, but you will need to buy a ready-made tightening device or make it yourself.

Each board is fixed at the edges with two hardware. You can use self-tapping screws (long and expensive) or ordinary nails. The length of the nails is selected depending on the thickness of the boards. But there is one mandatory requirement: the depth of nailing in the log must be at least two board thicknesses. Otherwise, there are high risks of loosening pilaf in the steam room. For example, if the thickness of the boards is 25 mm, then the length of the nails should be approximately 70 mm.

Step 8 The gaps between the floor and the walls along the perimeter of the room can also be foamed. This will be additional sealing.

Step 9 Nail the plinth. If your elements are made of plastic, then you do not need to cut off the protruding foam, we have already told you why. Skirting boards are fixed with small nails or self-tapping screws.

On this, the work on laying the floor in the steam room is completed, you can proceed to the finishing coating of the front surface.

Finish coat

As a topcoat, it is allowed to use a special stable varnish. Before applying the surface should be sanded, dust thoroughly vacuumed. For grinding, it is better to use an electric machine, it not only facilitates the work, but also significantly improves the quality. Never make such a smooth surface with your hands.

Acrylic wear-resistant varnishes have proven good performance in practice. If the manufacturers are responsible, then the floor will be used for a long time, no periodic repair work due to the wear of the finish coating will not have to be done.

You can cover with an ordinary paint brush, the number of layers is at least two. Moreover, during the coating with the second layer, the brush should move in a perpendicular direction to the first. For steam rooms, it is recommended to do three or four layers of varnish, due to this, the duration of operation increases. Each subsequent one is applied only after the previous one has completely dried, there is no need to try to reduce the number of layers by increasing the thickness of each. Such a gross violation of coating technology has extremely negative consequences.

At the end of the work, it is recommended to ventilate the steam room for several days, during which time the unpleasant odors and harmful chemicals. After the first warm-up, the ventilation must also be repeated, and only then is it allowed to enter the steam room.

Prices for floor boards

floor boards

Video - Wooden solid floor in the steam room

Video - Draining water from a bath on screw piles