Growing strawberries in Siberia in the open field has its own characteristics. The weather conditions of the region set certain requirements for the rules of planting, organizing irrigation, pruning plants and other procedures. Increased attention is paid to the choice of varieties, the location of strawberries and plant nutrition. When the rules of care are followed, a high yield of berries is obtained.

Requirements for strawberry varieties for Siberia

For growing strawberries in Siberia in open ground, strawberries of certain varieties are selected. The berry must meet the following conditions:

• increased resistance to frost in winter and cold snaps in spring;
• the ability to grow quickly and produce a crop;
• fruiting in conditions of short daylight hours;
• resistance to fungal diseases, pests and decay;
• good taste qualities.

Many varieties of strawberries for Siberia are characterized by early or medium fruiting. Remontant varieties are no less in demand, capable of producing crops from June until the arrival of frost. About 2 weeks pass between each picking of remontant berries.

Most of the strawberry varieties for Siberia were bred by domestic specialists. Plants are adapted to the conditions of this region and give a good harvest.

Growing strawberries in Siberia in the open field

The following varieties are most popular in Siberia:

• Darenka is an early strawberry that produces large sweet berries with sourness;
• Omskaya early variety, bred specifically for the regions of Siberia, is characterized by small sweetish fruits;
• Amulet is a dessert variety that gives a bountiful harvest;
• Tanyusha is another variety of strawberries adapted to Siberian conditions;
• Elizabeth II remontant variety, characterized by large fruits and long-term fruiting;
• Temptation remontant strawberry with a nutmeg flavor.

Soil preparation

Strawberries prefer light sandy or loamy soils rich in organic fertilizers.

To prepare the soil before planting the plants, the following components will be required:

• black soil 1 bucket;
• wood ash - 0.5 l;
• fertilizer containing complex useful substances 30 y.

Good fertilizers for strawberries are compost, humus or rotted manure. For 1 sq. m of soil requires up to 20 kg of organic matter. Additionally, you can use superphosphate (30 g) and potassium chloride (15 g).

When growing remontant or large-fruited varieties, the rate of fertilizers is doubled. Substances must be added according to the dosage in order to avoid an overabundance of minerals.

Strawberries do not tolerate soils with high acidity. This figure can be reduced by adding slaked lime (5 kg per hundred square meters).

Site selection

Strawberries require certain conditions that must be provided regardless of the region of its cultivation. Plants require abundant sunlight to bear fruit. Therefore, the beds are arranged in such a way that they are not shaded by trees or buildings.

When choosing a place for planting in open ground, crop rotation rules are taken into account. It is not allowed to plant strawberries where eggplant, potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers or cabbages previously grew. Good predecessors for strawberries are: garlic, lek, beets, oats, legumes.

When choosing a site, one should take into account that severe frosts are characteristic of Siberia. High snow cover serves as a reliable protection of plants from freezing.

In the spring, the snow begins to melt, due to which numerous full-flowing streams are formed. If the spring stream touches the strawberry garden, it will have a detrimental effect on the plantings. As a result, you will have to equip a new site for the berry.

Landing Rules

To ensure long-term fruiting of strawberries will help her proper fit. Leave at least 25 cm between plants. Although in spring, seedlings take up little free space, they grow over the summer and form a powerful bush.

Between the rows leave a distance of 0.8 m. This way you can avoid thickening of the plantings and make it easier to care for the plants. Strawberries are grown on one bed for 3-4 years, after which a new plot is equipped for it.

Before planting strawberries, you need to dig holes, then water the ground well and wait until the moisture is absorbed. Fertilizer for plants is applied in the autumn, however, in the spring it is allowed to use humus and ash.

Seedlings are carefully placed in the pits so as not to damage their root system, which is covered with earth. After planting, the soil must be compacted. Then the strawberries are watered and covered with a film for 10 days. This will protect the plants from cold snaps and strengthen their roots.

Top dressing strawberries

The fruiting of strawberries largely depends on the supply of nutrients.

It is necessary to take care of plants in order to saturate them with useful components in several stages:

• spring processing;
• recharge after the appearance of the ovary;
• processing after harvest;
• autumn feeding.

In the spring, strawberries are fertilized with bird droppings (0.2 kg), which are diluted in 10 liters of water. The solution is infused for a day, then the plants are watered under the root.

Nitroammophoska is a complex fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. These trace elements are responsible for the development of strawberries.

When ovaries appear, you need to water the plants with a solution of mullein. For this, rotted manure is used, which must be infused for several days.

In summer, plants are provided with potassium, which is responsible for the taste of berries. This substance is found in humus and ash. Humus (0.3 kg) is diluted with water (10 l), after which it is left for a day.

Ash is a universal fertilizer for strawberries, containing a whole range of useful substances. It is embedded in the soil between rows with plantings or used as a solution. An additional effect of the ash is the protection of plants from pests.

In autumn, the main fertilizer for strawberries is mullein. Superphosphate or potassium sulfate is added to a solution based on it. For 10 liters of water, the norm of mineral fertilizers is no more than 30 g.

Watering strawberries

Strawberries need to be watered regularly to harvest. Additionally, it is required to provide oxygen access to the roots of plants. Therefore, another stage of care is loosening the soil.

The rate of incoming moisture is determined taking into account precipitation. In rainy weather, strawberries are covered with agrofilm during flowering and fruiting. So you can protect plantings from the spread of fungal diseases.

The level of soil moisture for strawberries depends on the type of soil. For sandy soil, the moisture content should be about 70%, for clay soil about 80%.

Each plant requires up to 0.5 liters of water. After planting strawberries, watering is done daily for 2 weeks. Then between the procedures make a break of 2-3 days.

On average, strawberries are watered 1-2 times every week. Plants prefer a rare but plentiful supply of moisture. It is better to refuse frequent and poor watering.

Water for watering strawberries should not be too cold. It can be defended in greenhouses or wait until it warms up in the sun. For a large number of plants, it is better to equip drip irrigation, which ensures a uniform supply of moisture.

Mustache trimming

In the process of growth, strawberries give off long tendrils that allow the plant to grow. Due to the mustache, you can get new seedlings. If you do not carry out timely pruning of the shoots, then this will lead to a dense planting and a decrease in productivity.

Extra shoots are recommended to be removed immediately, since strawberries spend a lot of vitality on them. Additionally, dry leaves and stems of plants are removed. Leave only the shoots that are planned to be used for seedlings.

Mustache pruning is done in spring before flowering and in autumn, when the last crop is harvested. For work, a dry day without wind, morning or evening period is selected. Strawberry shoots are cut with scissors or secateurs.

Soil mulching

Mulching creates a protective layer on the soil surface. Its additional function is to enrich the soil with nutrients.

For mulching plantings with strawberries, you can choose an inorganic material film, polyethylene or woven material. It is recommended to cover plants in Siberia in the spring to protect them from cold weather.

Organic mulch (straw, hay, sawdust) helps to enrich the soil. Such a layer dries quickly after watering, which reduces the spread of rot on plants. Mulch becomes an obstacle to the growth of weeds.

Mulching is done in the spring when the first strawberry ovaries appear. Plant stems often droop under the weight of berries. The protective layer will protect the fruit from contamination.

Used for mulching in autumn synthetic materials, straw, needles, fallen leaves. This will keep the plants from freezing until the snow cover appears. In the spring, mulch will accelerate the warming of the soil, which has a positive effect on the rate of ripening of berries.

Conclusion

For the cultivation of strawberries in Siberia, varieties bred for this region are mainly used. Plants must remain cold tolerant, mature in a short time and provide good palatability.

The conditions of Siberia are able to tolerate strong plants that receive regular watering and top dressing. A sunny place is chosen for the berry plant, where there are no blackouts and the likelihood of flooding melt waters. Particular attention is paid to mulching the soil and sheltering plants from frost and spring cold snaps.

Garden strawberries can be bought everywhere today. Turkish and Israeli is offered by supermarkets almost all year round. Tashkent has been offered on the market since May.

But you really want our Siberian, collected with your own hands from the garden - really fragrant, sweet or with a slight sourness. What varieties of strawberries should be chosen so that it pleases with its harvest as early as possible? Let's figure it out!

Amulet

Strawberries of this variety are considered medium-early. It is distinguished by good winter hardiness, resistance to diseases and strawberry mites. Large berries of the correct conical shape are quite large (12-29 g), but despite this, they will not wrinkle during transportation and will not give juice.

They ripen together and taste good. There are practically no mustaches on a sprawling bush.

Berdskaya Early

A variety of very early ripening, highly winter-hardy, resistant to gray rot and strawberry mites. Pinkish-red berries of medium density can be large and medium (8-18 g), have a round-conical shape, dessert taste. They tolerate transportation well.

The yield is high and stable. A variety of intensive type, responsive to care, perfectly forms a crop under film cover. Mustache average.

Darenka

Berry of early ripening, tolerates frost and other adverse conditions very well, resists pests, rot, leaf spot. The bush is compact, the leaves are bright green.

Dark red berries are large (12-21 g), ripening together, equal in collection, dense, very transportable, round-conical with a small neck, excellent taste (up to 5 points). The yield is high and stable. Intensive variety, responsive to care.

Mustaches are few.

Kama

Early winter-hardy variety, stable in culture. Good disease and drought resistance. May be moderately susceptible to strawberry mite damage. However, its dark cherry rather large rounded berries (9-15 to 25 g) have a very good taste and aroma.

The yield is average but stable. The bush is low, the leaves are bluish, there are few mustaches.

Maryshka

Strawberries of medium early ripening. It is winter-hardy, moderately resistant to drought, but it resists gray rot and strawberry mites well. The bush is medium, the leaves are green, the average number of mustaches.

The berries are beautiful - bright red, large (up to 25 g), medium density. Productivity is high, stable, amicable ripening (2-3 collections). However, strawberries of this variety are demanding to the place. She needs frequent transplants.

Suitable for growing under film.

Omsk early

A variety of very early ripening, highly winter-hardy, heat- and drought-resistant. Resists strawberry mites, fruit rot and spotting. The bush is compact with a medium amount of whiskers, the leaves are dark green.

Red shiny berries of medium density (6-16 g), good taste. The yield is average, but stable, the return of the crop is very friendly. The variety is stable in culture, can grow in one place for a long time.

Pavlovchanka

The berry is very early ripening, winter-hardy, heat- and drought-resistant. Not susceptible to disease and pest attack. The berries are medium in size (6-11 g), pink-red, sweet and exceptionally fragrant, ripen amicably, although the yield is average.

Mustache is not very much.

Tanyusha

Strawberries are medium-early varieties, have high frost, heat and drought resistance. It is also resistant to strawberry mites and diseases. The bush is powerful with a small number of outlets, it can grow in one place for a long time.

The berries are large and medium (10.5-20 g), red-burgundy, shiny, obtuse, excellent taste with apricot aroma. The yield is average, stable. Culturally stable.

Festival Chamomile

Variety of medium early maturity. Resistant to gray rot, spotting, tolerant to strawberry mites. The bush is medium, there are few mustaches. It stands out for the quality of the berries: large fruits with a neck are even, red and shiny. They are very dense and taste great.

The yield is high and stable. A variety of intensive type, demanding on the place, requires frequent change of plantation. Suitable for growing under film.

Yunia Smides

A variety of industrial type with a high stable yield, without care it shrinks in collections. Early ripening, winter-hardy, disease-resistant, but moderately resistant to strawberry mites. The bush is powerful.

The berries are large (10-30 g) with a neck, medium density, obtuse, sweet and sour taste.

We select a variety

Early and mid-early varieties of garden strawberries are excellent for obtaining an off-season - the most valuable - crop. Therefore, it is important to choose the right variety specifically for Western Siberia.

It should have the following properties: - be winter-hardy, recover well after the loss of leaves; - be resistant to strawberry mite and fruit rot; - be productive (2.5-3.0 kg/m2 for early varieties); - must have high-quality berries: large or medium, not shrinking in collections; dense, good taste. Most requirements are met by many varieties, but there is no single variety that combines everything positive traits. Anna SOLOVIEVA

Video instruction - growing strawberries

Such varieties should have some properties:

• be winter-hardy enough to survive the winters of the region; recover well after the loss of leaves; have immunity to diseases and pests of the region (strawberry mites and fruit rot); have sufficient yields, high-quality berries suitable for transportation.

It is clear that all properties cannot be placed in one "ideal" variety, but it must meet several criteria. There are varieties that, in terms of their qualities, are suitable for growing in Siberia, and there are several specially bred ones, and then we will give a brief description of the suitable ones.

Optimal varieties for growing

Amulet

It belongs to varieties of medium-early ripening of non-repairable strawberries, it is also worth noting that it is dessert. The berries are dark red in color, regular conical or obtusely shaped, quite large (they can reach a mass of 25-30 g), so the yield from a bush can reach two kilograms.

The fruits reach amicably, have a sweet taste. They are used for various purposes: for freezing, canning, but it is best to use them fresh. They are quite suitable for transportation, because at the same time they do not choke and do not let the juice out.

Resistant to diseases, especially fungal, not affected strawberry mite, winter-hardy. Autumn planting is not recommended, as it negatively affects yield. Forms little mustache.

Berdskaya Early

As the name suggests, the ripening period is early, it belongs to non-repairable varieties. Berries of medium size, in the range of 15-20 g, red or, if I may say so, matte red, round-conical in shape, can be sweet, but most have sour sweet taste.The use of berries is dessert.

Productivity is high and stable, but only with impeccable care. It is recommended to grow under a film cover, an average number of mustaches is formed.

Darenka

Darenka is a variety of early non-repairable strawberries, a merit of Russian breeders. The berries are medium (15-20 g), rich red in color with slightly gleaming skin, sweet and sour taste, obtuse in shape.

About appearance It is worth noting the large broad leaves of a pale green color, many mustaches of medium thickness appear. It is widely used for commercial purposes (not least because of the very early ripening of the fruits that appear first on the shelves). It does not require special agrotechnical conditions, but regular watering and timely top dressing are required. It resists fungal diseases, harmful insects, also tolerates low air temperatures with a bang, and most importantly, it has a fairly high yield.

Kama

A variety of early ripening of Polish origin, which appeared as a result of crossing Zenga Zengana and Kavalier, the name Black Prince is common among the people. The plant produces brilliant bright red berries during technical ripeness, which, when fully ripe, darken to a burgundy hue (also with taste: first sour berries later turn sweet). Fruits are large - 25-35 g, ribbed and with a distinct neck, have a regular round-rhombic shape, the pulp is dense and juicy.

The bushes of the plant develop well, form a lot of dark green leaves and few whiskers (but the whiskers are very powerful). The yield is over 1 kg per bush.

There are disadvantages: it is often exposed to brown and white spotting (in this case, modern chemicals will come to the rescue). Differs in resistance to low temperatures and drought resistance.

Maryshka

The mid-early variety, bred by Czech specialists, when grown under a film, ripens on a par with the early ones. A distinctive feature is large, elongated (sometimes almost rectangular) dark berries, whose weight is 25-25 grams, in total, you can harvest up to one and a half kilograms from a bush. The fruits taste sweet, with a strong aroma, but not very juicy.

Due to the compactness of the bush, flower stalks do not lie on the ground, but are located above the leaves, so it is very convenient to pick berries. A mustache is formed a little. Plants of this variety are resistant to spotting, rot, mites, aphids.

It tolerates both drought and cold well.

Omsk early

The variety was obtained by crossing the Idun and Novinka varieties, the breeding was carried out by Russian specialists from the Siberian Research Institute of Agriculture, especially for cultivation in the West Siberian region. Refers to early varieties.

Weakly affected by diseases. Productivity is high. Berries are red or pink in color, weighing 10-15 g, blunt-conical, sometimes rounded, taste sweet and sour, have a strong aroma.

The bush is medium tall, with many leaves, few rosettes, while the peduncles are always below the level of the leaves. Not afraid low temperatures, not damaged by strawberry bush, fungal diseases.

Pavlovchanka

Russian variety of early ripening. At first it gives relatively large red or pink fruits weighing up to 25 g, but then the berries become smaller and smaller, no more than 10 g, while they are of an indefinite irregular shape (most likely blunt-conical).

The pulp is dense, juicy, sweet and sour with a pleasant smell. Since the yield is not impressive, it is not suitable for mass cultivation. The bushes are tall, with many leaves, flower stalks are medium, a lot of whiskers appear, they have an average drought resistance, but are winter-hardy. They are not subject to verticillium wilt, but are sometimes affected by spotting or gray mold.

Tanyusha

The variety was bred at the Novosibirsk Zonal Fruit and Berry Experimental Station. I. V. Michurina. Calmly tolerates droughts and frosts, ripens in medium terms.

Weakly damaged by fungal diseases, insects. The bush, as in the rest of the "Siberian" varieties, is powerful, well leafy, there are few whiskers and rosettes.

The berries are small in size - 10-15 g, blunt in shape, which are formed on thin stalks. Taste - sweet and sour, dark red in color with a gleaming skin, quite juicy. The yield is average. One of the few varieties that are recommended for cultivation in the West Siberian region.

Festival Chamomile

Festival Chamomile is one of the most successful varieties bred by Ukrainian scientists in the field of breeding. Ripens in medium terms.

The first berries are very large, on average about 40 g, very attractive in appearance - bright red in color with a shiny skin. The appearance matches the taste - the berries are very sweet, as they gain sugar content as they ripen, they have a rich smell. The shape is round-conical, with a short wide neck, the flesh is dense and juicy.

The variety is distinguished by its versatility and high yield, during the season there is a huge demand for it (it is worth noting that the berries do not choke during transportation). Resistant to various spotting and other diseases, absolutely good in winter and periods of drought.

Yunia Smides

Latvian variety of medium maturity. A distinctive feature is the variety is self-pollinated. Peduncles are located at the level of the leaves, there are not very many rosettes.

The berries are red in color with a shiny surface, can reach a weight of 30 g, but usually much less, approximately 15-20 g. They can taste sweet or sweet and sour, a strong aroma is felt. kilograms per m2. Resistant to various diseases. Choosing the right strawberry variety for growing in the Siberian region is enough important factor, but do not forget that any fruit plants (especially strawberries !!!) require constant care, and with enough work from any variety it is fashionable to get a satisfactory harvest.

Video "Varieties of strawberry varieties"

Video with a brief description of the main varieties of strawberries. Planting tips on how to have a crop of strawberries throughout the season.

Growing strawberries in open ground: from seedlings to berries

Undoubtedly, strawberries are the queen of the garden, and proper care behind it is the key to a good harvest of this tasty and healthy berry. At the same time, growing strawberries in the open field is not as simple as it seems to many novice gardeners and gardeners.

She still needs to be pleased, for that she is the royal berry: fertile land, the site is the sunniest, timely watering. Undoubtedly, strawberries are the queen of the garden, and proper care for her is the key to a good harvest of this tasty and healthy berry. At the same time, growing strawberries in the open field is not as simple as it seems to many novice gardeners and gardeners. She still needs to be pleased, for that she is a royal berry: fertile land, the plot is the sunniest, timely watering, but even this is not enough, take it for yourself and be capricious.

How to get strawberry seedlings from seeds yourself?

This is a perennial plant that often reproduces with a mustache. However, you can try to grow a good large and healthy berry for further cultivation from seeds - a method that has several advantages:

1. less susceptible to disease, the cost of seeds can be much cheaper than seedlings; in any store for gardeners you can buy even foreign varieties in a large assortment, you can also use seeds harvested on your own.

To grow seedlings, seeds should be sown in late January - early February. Boxes are taken, or individual pots or plastic containers are taken and filled with fertile soil to a height of no more than 10 cm. The soil should consist of sand, humus and peat. Can also be used finished types soils.

Soils are very good for indoor plants, such as violets and begonias, as well as special soils. If the seeds are sown in boxes, then shallow grooves must be made on the surface of the soil and watered. Distribute the seeds along the grooves, spray them with water from a spray bottle, lightly sprinkle with earth, or leave them completely uncovered.

Close pots or boxes on top with plastic wrap or glass. Growing seedlings should be carried out in a warm, but not hot room. The most suitable temperature for seedlings is + 22-26 ° С.

In no case should seedlings be placed next to a battery or heating devices. Shoots will appear in a week, at a lower temperature - in two or three weeks. How to choose a variety?

Despite the large number of varieties, not all of them can be grown from seeds. The most suitable are small-fruited beardless varieties, such as "Ali Baba" or "Alpine". They are quite inexpensive, and seedlings can be germinated even in winter at home.

Large-fruited varieties are much more difficult to grow, and besides, they are much more expensive. When choosing, you should pay attention to the expiration date, because. they quickly lose their viability. There are also hybrid varieties.

They usually have the designation "F1".

Planting strawberries in open ground: choosing a neighborhood with other crops

If it suddenly happened that the land is fertile, and you weed and fertilize on time, but you are not happy with the harvest, then see if you planted this crop in the right place. The northeast side of your site, and if it is also between fruit trees- one of the worst places for the location of the beds. All gardeners know that the sweetest and most delicious berries are where the sun always shines, so first of all we are looking for a place free from shrubs and trees, illuminated by the sun all day long. It should be noted that this culture does not like neighborhood with potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants and pepper.

Another one interesting feature: despite the fact that she does not like potatoes in her neighbors, the land where potatoes grew last year suits her. Just there, experts advise planting it. It is best to deal with all plantings in early spring, since the autumn ones reduce the yield - about three times. Be sure to prepare the ground in advance: apply compost, humus and the necessary fertilizers.

It is best to prepare the soil in 10-15 days. Plant cuttings in the late evening, at sunset. Before planting, you need to cut off the longest root of the seedling, cut off the leaves, while leaving only about three leaves.

I assure you that if all planting conditions are met in this way, the survival rate will be 100 percent. In order to increase productivity, you must constantly remove mustaches and young shoots, weed beds from weeds. you can propagate it with a mustache, sprinkling them with earth. The following spring, they should be transplanted to a permanent place.

In mid-autumn, they should be covered with rotted manure, and in late autumn, take measures for snow retention by building shields near the beds. Proper watering The key to the success of good development and a successful harvest is watering. Watering strawberries is required 2-3 times a week.

During flowering, watering should be slightly limited, and if weather conditions allow, it is better to stop altogether for this time. During the season, it is necessary to make one feeding with mullein (slurry). Organic fertilizer is simply irreplaceable for a rich harvest!

It is very important to properly prepare the fertilizer: it is best to use horse or cow dung. Fresh is used like this: take a bucket of manure for 200 liters of water, mix and let the infusion ferment. It's top dressing for the whole season!

A liter of the resulting mass is taken per bucket of water, carefully pour the beds with this mixture! I will also share one secret: from time to time, fall asleep pine or spruce needles under strawberry bushes, because of this, the whole earth around does not crack, does not crust and moisture lingers. forget that no more than 4 plants should be planted per square meter: they need a sufficient amount of light, and thickening will lead to crushing and a change in the taste of the berries - they will become not sweet. Do not think that after harvesting you should not take care of the beds: new shoots are formed, take root, leaf growth continues. Remove yellowed leaves, water if necessary, weed.

Protection of strawberries from diseases and pests

Raspberry-strawberry weevil, gray rot are terms familiar to gardeners. The trouble is when the slug spoils the berries. It’s easy to deal with them: get frogs on your site, they will do an excellent job with slugs.

To increase the yield, it is necessary to constantly remove mustaches and shoots, weed the beds. If you decide to propagate with a mustache, then sprinkle the mustache with earth and do not touch them until spring. The next spring, you can transplant the plants into permanent beds.

At the end of summer, cover the ground in the beds with well-rotted manure, and in late autumn you can put shields for snow retention. So that strawberry bushes do not get sick, they can be treated with horse sorrel, this is a super remedy in the fight against diseases! Horse sorrel is placed in a bucket, the more, the better, and water is poured.

Strawberry, victoria, wild strawberry. Varieties, care, cultivation.

For a week or two, a bucket of sorrel should be infused, then strawberries should be sprayed with this infusion. You can forget about diseases! Another important rule when growing and caring for strawberries.

If you grow varieties of the "Gigantella" type, then plant no more than 4 plants per square meter, since at the age of 2 - 3 years their height reaches 60 cm, the plants need a sufficient amount of light. After harvesting, leaf growth continues until mid-October, new roots, stems, flower buds are formed again. At this time, good care is needed, including the removal of yellowed leaves and watering. Using the advice of our experts, you can get an excellent harvest!

Strawberries as a garden berry are loved by both adults and children. Many summer residents are engaged in growing this crop in the hope of harvesting a rich harvest. However, the expectations of farmers are not always justified, because even if all the recommendations for planting and growing are followed, a poor harvest can be harvested. Most often, the problem lies in the illiterate choice of berry varieties for a particular climate, for example, for Siberian.

Criterias of choice

When choosing a suitable strawberry variety, you need to decide how long the berries will ripen and whether a remontant type of berries is necessary. Such plants give a rich harvest twice in one season. There are also varieties that bear fruit constantly every one and a half months. Such varieties require careful care and preventive measures from pests. Remontant strawberry varieties for Siberia are most effective for growing in protected conditions, where it is possible to increase the growing season and fruiting.

Depending on the ripening period, early-ripening, mid-ripening and late-ripening varieties strawberries. The first grade fructifies in the late spring, late-ripening fruits ripen in the middle of summer. Remontant winter-hardy strawberries will delight with their fruits from spring until the start of frost.

Description of the most popular varieties

For Siberia, it will be useful to use, first of all, zoned varieties, and remontant ones will also have good results.

Zoned

For Siberian conditions, special zoned varieties of berries were bred by Russian and foreign specialists. Consider those that are considered the best of them.

"Fairy"

"Fairy" has a sweet taste and a delicate elegant aroma. These are very large fruits weighing up to 40 grams in the shape of a cone. A special advantage of this strawberry variety is considered to be a rich yield, since up to one and a half kilograms of fruit can be obtained from one bush.

Plants are erect, small and not sprawling. Strawberries do not need special care, but when organic fertilizers are applied, they give a high yield.

"Festival"

"Festivalnaya" is considered the best variety, because it brings tasty and large berries of a bright red hue with a delicate aroma. The berries are round or flattened, weighing about 30 grams. Grooves can be seen on the outside of the strawberry. The maturation period is late, but the variety bears fruit for a long time.

Thanks to the rich harvest of berries, you can make various preparations for the winter. Strawberries do not spoil for a long time, so that up to 5 days they will not lose their taste and quality for further sale.

Variety "Festivalnaya" - resistant to harsh climatic conditions, so he is not afraid of any frost. Each bush has a large number of leaves. The variety has the ability to regenerate, in case of any damage, the leaves grow quickly, thereby restoring the normal functionality of the plant.

"Mascot"

The fruits are large, round and cylindrical, weighing more than 20 grams. The species belongs to mid-season, the fruits ripen in mid-summer. Strawberries bear fruit more than 1 kg per 1 m2.

This variety belongs to the semi-repaired species. That is, the fruits ripen in the summer on last year's bushes, and in the autumn - on the sprouts of this year. Due to the presence of a large number of mustaches on the bushes, it can be concluded that the fruits during the second harvest will be just as plentiful. By adding additional fertilizing, you can increase the yield of the beds.

The disadvantage of this variety is that high yields and excellent taste qualities appear only for a couple of years.

"Lviv early"

Variety "Lviv early" is grown in special areas by professionals and ordinary summer residents. It has been known for many years, and reviews confirm that the variety does not fail in any way. You can plant seedlings on any soil, the plants will quickly take root and will bear fruit every year, and also delight with their rich harvest.

The fruits of the variety begin to ripen in late spring. Each berry weighs about 30 grams. The shape of the strawberry is a truncated cone.

This variety is characterized by unpretentious cultivation and medium resistance to frost. Therefore, to prevent the death of bushes from the cold, it is recommended to cover them with burlap. Various diseases are not terrible for this variety; strawberry mites represent the greatest danger to it.

"Idun"

Strawberry variety "Idun" is unpretentious in cultivation. The variety was bred in Denmark exclusively for cultivation in cold regions. Grows and gives a rich harvest on any kind of soil. Requires only high moisture content.

Early maturing variety ripens in late spring. Form - rounded weighing no more than 25 grams. The pulp is juicy and soft. "Idun" cannot be stored or transported for a long time.

"Omsk Early"

The fruits are small, weighing only about 10 grams. The berries contain a high content of sugar and vitamin C. According to farmers, this variety is rated at 4.5 points on a five-point scale.

The bushes are not sprawling and large, but have a large number of branches. This ensures a rich yield of the variety. From one square meter you can collect about 1.5 kg of strawberries.

The above plant varieties are intended for cultivation in the northern regions. No less popular types of strawberries are Darenka and Amulet. Zoned strawberries are grown both by amateur gardeners and in special agrotechnical plantations.

Refurbishment

The main advantages of remontant strawberry varieties are a high level of fruiting, which is ensured by several stages of the formation and ripening of berries. Growing in greenhouse conditions allows you to increase the growing season of plants and increase yields. Remontant varieties of berries begin to ripen from the beginning of spring to autumn.

"Queen Elizabeth II"

A variety of strawberries called "Queen Elizabeth II" is considered one of the best and is great for growing in cold areas. It gives a good harvest annually, about 1.5 kg of berries are harvested from one plant. These are large fruits weighing up to 80 grams, but can reach 100 grams. Has a sweet taste.

"Lord"

Variety "Lord" gives a rich harvest, has large berries and is resistant to cold. Mid-season strawberries weighing up to 100 grams begin to ripen in mid-summer. In August, you can pick berries in the second stage. However, they will have a smaller weight and size, but the taste will not differ in any way.

The productive variety differs whimsical care. Strawberries are grown only in places with constant sunlight, in order to avoid rotting of the fruit, it is necessary to mulch the soil. With the introduction of organic matter and abundant watering, the harvest from one bush can be up to 1 kilogram.

"Honey"

Strawberry variety "Honey" is a popular variety that gives a rich harvest in early spring in greenhouse conditions. On open ground, the berries ripen in May. At the end of August, you can collect the second stage of the harvest.

Characteristic features of this variety are a rich harvest of up to 1.2 kg per m2, large fruits weighing up to 30 grams and resistance to cold climates. Can be grown both indoors and outdoors.

All listed remontant varieties of berries are perfectly adapted to regions with a harsh climate. They allow you to get a rich harvest, but only with careful care and regular watering. To create more favorable conditions for growth and increase yields, you can grow a crop in greenhouses.

In order for the plants to take root, it is necessary:

• straighten the roots of the seedlings so that they do not become crushed in the ground;
• with large roots, it is necessary to make deeper holes and pour water into it;
• before planting, spray the root system of plants with substances to stimulate growth;
• strawberry bushes should be planted at a distance of at least 20 cm.
• It is best to plant strawberry whiskers in rainy weather.



Various diseases can leave without a crop. These include gray rot, which looks like a plaque of a gray tint, as well as a strawberry mite, which can not be seen, leaves twisted into tubules testify to the invasion of ticks. So that when the fruits ripen, gray rot does not spoil the plants, it is necessary to water the beds cold water and mulching.

And also every 4 years it is necessary to transplant strawberries to a new place. This will avoid gray rot and not impair the taste of ripe fruits.

At the end of summer or autumn, it is necessary to add potassium and phosphorus in order to prepare strawberries for winter. It is recommended to cut the tendrils of strawberries and cover the plants with spruce branches, and some experts are against this. However, this procedure will avoid freezing strawberry bushes during the cold period.

In the next video, you will find the technology for growing remontant strawberries of the Elizabeth II variety in Siberia.

What kind of berry is a priority among all berry crops? This is a strawberry, the cultivation and care of this berry in Siberia remains relevant. You can now enjoy fragrant ripe berries even in regions with a rather harsh climate. Leading breeders have created unique strawberry varieties for Siberia, ideally adapted to the rather harsh conditions of this region. Now the successful cultivation of ideal strawberries is also possible in harsh places. In order to acquire fragrant strawberries on your own garden plot, you need to know its best varieties, optimally suited for Siberia.

Basic requirements for Siberian strawberries

Growing strawberries in harsh Siberian conditions becomes possible only if the following requirements are met. tender plant:

• possessing a sufficient degree of frost resistance so that strawberries can successfully withstand the harsh Siberian winters;
• the ability to quickly regenerate the green part of the bush;
• the degree of resistance to rotting of ripe fruits and frequent damage to the common strawberry mite;
• such varieties of strawberries should be distinguished by an increased yield of berries with excellent taste characteristics, quite suitable for further transfer.

It can be quite difficult to choose the best strawberry varieties for these requirements, but to find the best varieties strawberries maybe. To reward the family with fragrant ripe berries, it is necessary to grow several varieties at once. garden strawberries, differing in the period of fruiting, a unique inimitable taste, the size of the berries. You need to know exactly the features of the care of each variety of them.

Some nuances of caring for resistant strawberry varieties

Any crop requires proper care in order to get the maximum yield. First you need to take care of the thorough preparation of the land for planting strawberries. Any strawberry cannot stand if nightshade varieties were grown in the beds before planting it. The place should be out of reach of the spring water flow, be absolutely open to the penetration of sunlight, with rich in nutritious humus and fluffy soil.

Caring for resistant strawberry varieties in Siberia involves strict adherence to the irrigation regime, regular weeding, proper nutrition, removal of new mustaches, and seasonal mulching. Seasonal care and soil preparation must begin in the autumn. Before digging strawberry beds, a nutrient mixture from a bucket of useful humus, 0.5 liters of natural wood resin and 30 g of a balanced fertilizer on a purely mineral basis is applied to 1 square meter of the formed beds. For planting large remontant strawberry varieties, it is expected to double the mixture.

Growing large-fruited strawberries requires the creation of beds no more than 50 cm wide, the allowable distance between the beds should also be at least 80 cm. It is advisable to plant large varieties in fairly spacious beds in one row, a suitable width for them is 1 meter. Such is the care for such unpretentious varieties of garden strawberries.

The next planting of mature seedlings must be done in early spring. Planted seedlings must be covered with a special covering material for a period of 10 days for the necessary adaptation. Remontant strawberry varieties should not be opened until the first ripe berries appear. After 3 years, it is necessary to transfer mature plants to other prepared beds, you can add useful wood ash to the holes of garden strawberries at any time convenient for gardeners.

Care for strawberries in the summer in Siberia (video)

Optimal strawberry varieties for the harsh conditions of Siberia

Suitable varieties for Siberia are the proven effectiveness of mature seedlings in practice. The following varieties are considered as such:

1. Berdskaya sweet and sour strawberry. With careful observance of the basic rules necessary care it can bring a huge harvest. In Siberia, it is recommended to grow under a special cover.
2. Russian Darenka. These strawberry varieties stand out for their lush bushes with large leaves. Subject to the necessary care instructions, she pleases with an early and rather plentiful harvest. These varieties of strawberries are optimal for growing for sale. The main conditions for obtaining a sufficient yield are dosed watering and dosed application of the necessary fertilizers. Sudden temperature changes do not frighten strawberries. Darenka is distinguished by resistance to attacks by major pests and fungal diseases.
3. Fragrant Black Prince or Kama. This variety was bred by leading Polish breeders. Its mature fruits are distinguished by a catchy red color and a slightly sour taste. The berries are juicy, with sufficient density. One mature bush of this garden strawberry is capable of producing up to 1 kg of fragrant ripe berries. It endures cool temperatures, is quite resistant to the dry period, but it is highly susceptible to brown or white spotting. High-quality processing with special antibacterial agents will help maintain the integrity of the crop.
4. Omsk early strawberries are a variety of culture specially bred by domestic breeders for the special climate of Siberia. This variety is characterized by high yields, it is practically not susceptible to various diseases. In the photo, this variety is represented by a rather lush bush with red berries, which can be immediately noticed because of their amazing aroma and sweet and sour taste.
5. Dessert strawberries of the Amulet variety are distinguished by large-shaped fruits. One mature bush is capable of yielding up to 2 kg of these fragrant berries. The maturation process takes place simultaneously. Children prefer this amazing variety to other analogues for the rich sweet taste of ripe fruits. Skillful housewives with great pleasure are engaged in its seasonal conservation. The culture is not exposed to any diseases, it tolerates frosts excellently. In order to achieve the highest yield, it is recommended to plant only in early spring.
6. The magnificent mid-early Tanya is the fruit of the successful work of scientists from this region. Powerful fluffy bushes with compact rosettes and small fruits of intense red color - this is the main thing that distinguishes this variety from the rest. Tanyusha is a special kind of strawberry bred for this region.
7. Sweet Festival Chamomile is the result of the successful work of Ukrainian breeders. It produces fairly large fruits with a unique sweet taste and unique aroma. For further transportation, this variety is not ideal. As numerous reviews testify, Chamomile is good in any form: fresh, canned, in the form of fragrant juices and unique desserts.
   

   The bred variety is distinguished by increased resistance to major diseases, good tolerance to temperature changes.

How to plant strawberries

Strawberry. Landing dates

The best time to plant strawberries is spring (May 1-15) and summer (July 20-August 10). This is necessary in order to get developed plants with powerful roots. Possible landing time, but undesirable - the second half of August. But usually for gardeners, the term for planting seedlings of strawberries is determined by the presence of a sufficient number of seedlings ready for planting.

Summer planting has a number of advantages over spring planting. At this time, hard spring days are far behind, and the period of planting seedlings is extended for almost a month. Plants planted at the end of July until autumn have time not only to take root and take root in the soil, but also to develop well and prepare for wintering. Such plants give a good harvest the next year.

Landing in more late dates associated with serious problems, since seedlings may not have time to take root and die in winter. Therefore, plants planted in the second half of August should be insulated with dry leaves, peat chips, etc. with the onset of cold weather.

Many gardeners plant seedlings in the spring. By this time, she has developed a good root system. But one should not be late with landing, since in the second half of May it can fall under the harmful effects of hot and dry weather and take root poorly.

PLANTING SCHEMES

There are many ways to place plants in the garden: carpet, one-line, two-line, three-line, individual bushes, etc.

When carpet planting, the area is completely planted with strawberries. At the same time, the yield in the first year will be noticeably higher, but after a year it will drop sharply, plant care becomes more difficult, and the quality of berries deteriorates. In rainy weather, with such a planting, the berries are very sick with gray rot.

Single row planting is more commonly used on large plantations. In this case, the plants are placed at a distance of 60-70 cm between rows and 15-40 cm between plants, depending on the growth of plants. For low-growing varieties, a distance of 20 cm is sufficient, for medium-sized varieties - 25-30 cm, and for vigorous ones with strong branching - 30-35 cm. In the second year, the rows are usually thickened, leaving a small number of rosettes near the mother bushes.

Such a bed is better lit, convenient for care, processing and picking berries, the plants are well ventilated and less sick with gray rot. But a lot of land goes to the tracks.

The most common in gardens is a two-line planting, when the distance between rows is 35-40 cm, and between plants in a row is 20-25 cm, depending on the variety, and a path about 50 cm wide.

More effective is a two-line planting with thickening in the first year of plant life. At the same time, the distance between rows is 50 cm, and between plants in a row is 20 cm. At the same time, a high yield of berries is obtained already in the first year of fruiting.

But immediately after the first harvest, every second plant in the row is removed, and the extra plants are transplanted to a new bed. But this method has not found wide distribution.

With a significant lack of seedlings, strawberries can be planted in rows sparsely - after 40-50 cm, followed by layout in rows of mustaches with rosettes, slightly pressing them with earth.

In very wet areas, strawberries should be grown on ridges 15-20 cm high and 80-100 cm wide. 2 rows of plants are planted on such ridges at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other.

Attention! The planting scheme has a great influence on the size of the future harvest. The gardener who thickens the plantings is mistaken. such beds will be heavily infected with gray rot. This disease develops especially strongly in waterlogged, shaded areas.

Ridges should be located from north to south. Then the plants and soil between the rows warms up more and is illuminated by the sun, allowing you to better fight diseases. On the slope, the beds are placed across it. If you have not one, but two varieties growing in your garden, then it is better to place the plants according to varieties not in longitudinal rows, but in blocks, without mixing them with each other.

PLANTING SEEDLINGS

The quality of seedlings affects the survival and subsequent growth of plants. Therefore, freshly dug seedlings are prepared for planting in a shaded and cool place. It is sorted, selecting the most developed plants for planting. They must be without mechanical damage, with a well-developed and intact apical bud, 2-3 normally developed leaves, fibrous root system. Prepared seedlings are dug in a shaded place and watered abundantly.

And now two tips for those who purchase strawberry seedlings:

If you are a fan of "extreme", then do not rush to purchase sensational varieties (Lords, Gigantella and others) from persons trading in the market. It is best to take them directly from the nursery to avoid cheating. In extreme cases - at a neighbor, where you saw what kind of crop he harvested.

Now nurseries mainly sell seedlings of strawberries with an open root system, and "private traders" - with a closed one, in single cups or in containers from yorgut. In the latter case, forgery is possible, i.e. the mustache was recently planted and the young rosette has not yet had time to take root. Always try one plant to "pass". If everything fell asleep at once, it means that the seedlings have just been transplanted.

And if you do not have the opportunity to plant the acquired seedlings in the coming days in the garden, then they are stored upright in boxes, leaving no voids between the plants, and burlap, moss or sawdust are laid on the bottom of the box. Seedlings are watered from a watering can and covered with burlap. Long-term storage of seedlings is undesirable.

In urban conditions, seedlings can be stored in the refrigerator for some time. To do this, the whole wet plants, along with the leaves, are lowered into a plastic bag and stored in the lower part of the refrigerator.

Strawberry seedlings are usually planted in grooves or holes. Before planting, the plot is divided in accordance with the chosen planting pattern, marking the beginning and end of each row with pegs. The distance between plants in a row is marked using a marked board.

Planting seedlings is best done in cloudy weather or, as a last resort, in the evening. Before planting, the seedlings are examined again, too long roots are cut (up to 10 cm) and dipped in a mash of soil and humus, diluted with water to the consistency of liquid sour cream. It is advisable to add any growth regulator to a bucket of such a talker (Epin, Zircon, Kornevin, Mikrasa, Novosil, etc.). At the same time, a large lobe of roots is formed faster and seedlings take root much better.

Then, in accordance with the markup, they dig holes so that the root system freely fits in them. If the soil is well fertilized, then the holes are covered with the same soil. But it is better to fill the hole halfway with humus, to which granular superphosphate is added (3 tablespoons of superphosphate for 1 bucket of humus), and top it up with fertile soil.

If you have seedlings from an "unreliable" source, then it must be washed with a solution of table salt and copper sulfate. To do this, put 3 tbsp on a bucket of water. tablespoons of salt and 1 teaspoon of copper sulfate and immerse seedlings in it for 10 minutes. Then it is washed with clean water.

For a good survival of plants, the technique of planting seedlings is of paramount importance. Strawberries are planted along a cord stretched between pegs. With a spatula, dig holes with a sheer wall on the side of the cord. Before planting, the wells are watered abundantly and, as soon as the water is absorbed, the seedlings are planted in "liquid mud" - this is very important.

The hole should be deep enough so that the roots do not curl up. With one hand, the plant is pressed against a vertical wall so that the heart is flush with the surface of the soil, and with the other, the hole is filled up to half, pressing the soil tightly to the roots and preventing the formation of voids.

Then fill the hole completely and compact the soil around the plant. This should be done especially carefully during autumn planting. Properly planted seedlings should not be pulled out of the ground with a slight tug on the leaf.

The depth of planting must be carefully monitored so that the heart of the plant is not covered with earth. In properly planted seedlings, the apical bud should be located with its base at the level of the soil surface.

If planted too deep, the plants do not take root well, because. after the first watering, a heart swims. But even if the planting is too shallow, the plants also do not grow well, because. their roots are constantly drying up.

Potted seedlings are easier to plant. A pot is inserted into the hole, compacted with soil, observing the correct planting depth.

After planting, the plants are immediately watered with water at the rate of 1 liter per plant and a solution of the Barrier preparation. Then the rows are mulched with humus or peat chips, and holes are made around the plants. Immediately after planting the seedlings, it is necessary to loosen the aisles trampled before.

When planting seedlings without holes or furrows, the plants quickly rise above the general level of the soil, suffer more due to lack of moisture, and in early winter they are poorly covered with snow and hibernate worse.

It is advisable to shade the plants within a week after planting. various materials(burlap, branches, dry grass), water or spray more often with water. When planting in hot sunny weather, part of the leaves of the seedlings must be removed. The first 5-6 days of the plant, it is desirable to water in the evening. Two weeks for strawberries is enough to take root and grow.

When hot or cold weather sets in, newly planted seedlings may begin to turn red leaves, which is a physiological process and does not require treatment with protective equipment.

PLANTING SEEDLING ON NON-WOVEN MATERIAL OR FILM

In recent years, planting seedlings on ridges covered with foil or nonwoven fabric. To do this, ordinary low ridges are formed in the allotted area. Soil fertility in such a bed must be taken care of in advance so that the plants do not lack nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus for about 3 years.

The prepared ridge is covered with a black film or spandbond. Its edges are sprinkled with earth or pressed with boards. Then lightly sprinkle with earth over the film so that it fits snugly to the soil.

The main thing is to correctly mark the distance between plants. In the film, according to the marking, cross-shaped cuts are made with a sharp knife or round holes with a diameter of not more than 5 cm are cut out. Then the formed corners of the film are bent inward. The distance between the holes in the row is 25-30 cm, between the rows - 45-50 cm.

Seedlings are planted in these holes, helping themselves with a narrow scoop or a teaspoon. This must be done correctly, in no case deepening the heart and not bending the roots. If the seedlings have long roots and they are strongly bent, then they need to be cut a little.

Without a certain skill, planting seedlings in a small hole like this is quite difficult, but everything comes with experience, you just need to practice. This hole can be made larger, but then weeds will climb out of it, and pests will calmly find refuge at the roots, so you should never do this. Then you need to water the plants abundantly.

And then the black film will “do” everything else for you. It will retain moisture and heat, which is especially important in the spring. Therefore, fruiting in such a garden occurs much earlier than usual.

The film will not allow weeds to grow, the soil under it will always be loose, and the berries on the film will be clean, the loss of berries from gray rot will be sharply reduced. The very time-consuming work of weeding and loosening the soil in the garden is eliminated.

And if after a year the plant becomes cramped, then the diameter of the hole can be increased by 1-2 cm. Well, if you need a mustache from these plants, then everyone is looking for a way out himself. The author believes that it is easiest to put mayonnaise, margarine jars on top of the film and root seedlings in them.

Caring for such a bed consists in the timely trimming of the mustache and watering as needed. After 3 years, the cover material is removed and disposed of, and the land is prepared for another crop.

And the cost of purchasing a black film or spandbond quickly pays off by increasing the yield and due to a sharp decrease in the labor intensity of caring for strawberries. And when weeds appear in the aisles between the beds, they are destroyed manually.

V. G. Shafransky

How to plant strawberries

How to plant strawberries in order to get a good harvest? I offer you four effective ways of planting strawberries that have long proven themselves among gardeners.

LANDING STRAWBERRIES WITH SEPARATE BUSHES

Strawberry sockets are planted one at a time at a distance of 45-60 cm. To prevent the plants from intertwining, the whiskers are regularly removed, thereby allowing the bushes to develop intensively and bear fruit abundantly.

Disadvantages of the method: time-consuming, frequent loosening of the soil, weed control, mulching and mustache trimming are necessary.

Advantages of the method: the berries are large due to a small number of bushes, each plant is ventilated, which reduces the likelihood of putrefactive diseases, planting material is saved.

LANDING STRAWBERRIES IN THE ROWS

In this case, the bushes are planted at a distance of 15-20 cm in one row, and a strip 40 cm wide is left between the rows so that you can freely approach the plantings. As with growing strawberries in separate bushes, it is necessary to loosen the soil, remove mustaches and weeds.

Disadvantages of the method: the same as the first.

Advantages of the method: strawberries planted in rows grow well and bear fruit for 5-6 years in one place.

LANDING STRAWBERRIES WITH NESTS

With this planting method, one plant is planted in the center of the future nest and six more around it. The result is a hexagon with a distance between plants in the nest of 5-8 cm. The distance between nests in one row should be 25-30 cm, and between rows 35-40 cm.

Disadvantages of the method: it takes a lot planting material.

Advantages of the method: five times more plants are planted than with traditional planting methods, which ensures a large yield.

CARPET PLANTING STRAWBERRY

This is the easiest and cheapest way to land. Its essence is that the mustache of the strawberry bushes does not break off, thereby allowing the berry to grow independently over the entire allotted area. With such a compacted way of placing bushes, a special microclimate arises in the surface layer, and a layer of vegetable mulch is also formed by itself. This inhibits weed growth and keeps the soil moist.

Advantages of the method: it is convenient for those who do not often go to the country, the berries rarely need watering, loosening and fertilizing due to natural mulching.

Disadvantages of the method: over time, the berries can shrink.

HOW TO PROPERLY PRODUCE STRAWBERRY WITH A MUSTACH

How did our grandmothers propagate strawberries? After the strawberry bushes bore fruit, they “launched” the garden bed, that is, they did not cut off the mustache. And at the end of August, the strongest rooted rosettes were selected and transferred to a new place.

But if you want to get high-quality seedlings, if you want to preserve all the varietal qualities of strawberries, if you need an excellent harvest from year to year, you need to act a little differently.

WHY IS IT IMPOSSIBLE TO TAKE A MUSTACHE FROM A FRUIT-BEARING BUSH?

The correct approach to propagating strawberries is as follows: the bush should produce either berries or a mustache. One out of two. If a gardener takes mustaches from freshly fruited strawberry bushes, he gets defective seedlings. The main part of the nutrients the plant has already spent on the ripening of berries, which means that its mustache will be much weaker than we would like.

In addition, forcing the bushes to "work on two fronts", the summer resident risks losing them ahead of time. Strawberries are depleted faster, the berries become smaller, the bushes are more likely to be exposed to diseases, the yield of the beds is reduced by 20-30%.

REPRODUCTION OF STRAWBERRY WITH THE HELP OF ROTARY BUSHES

Proper reproduction of strawberries begins with the selection of the so-called mother bushes. To do this, in the first year after planting, absolutely all mustaches are removed from absolutely all strawberry bushes and fruiting is expected. The bushes that survived the vagaries of the weather best of all, did not get sick and gave the largest berries, are marked with a sticker, a stick, a knitting - whatever, as long as it is noticeable. These are your future mother bushes. For convenience, you can even transplant them to a separate bed according to the pattern of 40 centimeters between bushes, 80 centimeters between rows.

The following year, on selected mother bushes, all buds are removed, preventing flowering and, accordingly, setting berries.

Thus, without being able to produce seeds, plants will put all their strength into vegetative propagation, that is, into mustaches. Already in the first month of summer, the mother bushes will begin to give a mustache, on which rosettes will subsequently be tied. You need to leave only the largest, most powerful mustache, and ruthlessly cut off all the little things. The best option- shorten the whiskers of strawberries, leaving only one outlet on each, closest to the mother bush. But if you need a lot of seedlings, then you can use the second outlet.

When the first roots appear on the outlets, two options for further action are possible:

1. Pin sockets to the ground, bury them a little in loose soil, and then water and care for them like any other seedling.

2. Without separating the outlet from the mother bush, plant each in a separate pot, where it will develop its own root system.

Strawberry seedlings are planted in a new place in late July - early August, so that before the onset of the first frost, the plants have time to take root and grow stronger. Therefore, two weeks before planting, the mustache connecting the sockets to the mother bush is cut, giving the young plants time to get used to eating at the expense of their own roots.

Mother bushes can serve as a source of high-quality seedling material for two to three years.

Moreover, two- or three-year-old strawberries produce much more whiskers than first-year ones. Well, after three years, it is recommended to replace the uterine bushes with young ones, having carried out the entire selection procedure again.

TERMS AND TECHNOLOGY FOR PLANTING STRAWBERRY

It's time to get up close and personal with the technology. When should strawberries be planted? How to plant it correctly so that each bush takes root and overwinter? How to water and feed newly planted seedlings? Is it necessary to mulch young plantings? Today our goal is to find answers to these and some other questions.

TERMS OF LANDING STRAWBERRIES

For the future excellent harvest berries, first of all, high-quality seedlings are needed, and the best mustaches and rosettes appear in early spring or late summer, when temperatures are low and there is plenty of moisture.

Therefore, the periods from April 25 to May 15 and from and from July 23 to August 10 are considered the optimal dates for planting strawberries. Strawberries planted after August 10 bear fruit the next year poorly, and those planted in September before August 5 take root well, but do not bear fruit the next year.

When is it better to plant strawberries: in spring or autumn? In most areas and in most cases the most good option planting of young strawberries in the last week of July is considered. During this period, the gardener has more time, and a lot of planting material, and the weather, as a rule, is favorable for young bushes to take root, take root in a new place and safely endure the winter. But in open areas blown by all winds in areas with severe, little snowy winters, it is better to be careful and postpone planting to spring. Then the young bushes will have a whole summer to get stronger.

BED PREPARATION

Strawberries are recommended to be planted in well-lit areas where garlic, onions, root crops or legumes used to grow. It is very good if the bed for strawberries was chosen in advance and sown with green manure in the spring, which had already been mowed by August, and the bed was shed with a solution of EM preparations. The best green manure for strawberries is lupine.

In any case, before planting seedlings, the site must be cleared of weeds and the soil mixed. Strawberries are a rather “gluttonous” berry, so in addition to the earth, compost, rotted manure or biohumus, and ash will be required to prepare the soil.

Holes for strawberry seedlings are made deep and wide. The distance between the holes is 30-50 cm. The distance between the rows is 40 cm. The earth taken out of the holes is mixed with the rest of the soil components in the following proportions: 1 bucket of earth, 1 bucket of manure, 1 bucket of compost, 2 cups of ash. From the soil prepared in this way, a small mound is made in the center of each hole.

STRAWBERRY PLANTING TECHNOLOGY

Like any other crop, it is preferable to plant strawberries on a cloudy day or in the evening.

An hour before planting, the seedlings need to be watered, it would be even better to soak the seedlings in water or a growth biostimulator for a couple of hours. Some gardeners keep bushes in garlic infusion before planting (150 ml of garlic infusion per 10 liters of water) to prevent pest attacks.

A good strawberry seedling should have 3-4 healthy leaves (it is advisable to remove the rest) and well-spread roots 10 centimeters in length (extra centimeters need to be cut off).

So, we have prepared young bushes, holes with "mounds" and the remains of the soil mixture. It remains only to install each bush on a mound so that the growth point (the so-called "heart") is on the same level with the surface of the bed, and the roots are straightened along the slopes of the mound.

Then, holding the bush, it is necessary to fill it with soil prepared in advance and at the same time spill it with water. This is done so that the contact of the roots and the earth is closer.

Be sure to ensure that the growing point is not too deep or too elevated above the soil.

CARE FOR YOUNG STRAWBERRY BED

If you planted strawberries in the spring, flower stalks and mustaches may appear on the young bed. Cut them off without pity! Now the main task of seedlings is rooting in a new place, and fruiting and reproduction can and should be postponed until the next season.

Be sure to mulch freshly planted strawberries. The best mulching material for this berry is needles - it does not allow diseases to develop and repels pests. But straw, and dried grass, and foliage, and rotted sawdust, etc. are also suitable.

Two weeks after planting, young bushes are fed. As a top dressing, you can use biohumus infusion (sold in stores), bird droppings infusion or herbal infusion. All these fertilizers are organic, contain a large amount of easily digestible nitrogen, which contributes to the rapid growth of young strawberries.

PROCESSING STRAWBERRY IN SPRING

Spring processing of strawberries is one of the first things a summer resident does when he returns to his favorite site after a long winter. However, not everyone knows how to properly process strawberries in the spring in order to save their own strength and increase the future harvest.

Do I need to remove old dried leaves? Should I remove the top layer of soil? How to treat strawberries from pests and diseases? What should be the first spring feeding of strawberries? Questions have been asked, so let's answer...

After the snow melts and the first warm days come, the gardeners of the old school, armed with a flat cutter, a chopper and a shovel, proceed to the standard processing of strawberries “according to the textbook”: they remove the top layer of soil (formidable pests live there), cut off the dried leaves (because the bushes should look beautiful), feed, loosen and sprinkle the soil, spray the bushes from pests.

As a result, bare beds are obtained, which, after the first hot sunny day, are covered with a crust. And the crust again needs to be loosened, etc. etc.

So it can't be done? Why is it possible. But such processing takes a lot of time and effort.

For those who feel sorry for the effort spent in vain, we offer a slightly different way of processing strawberry bushes.

So, here is a list of the main activities that need to be done in the spring on a strawberry garden:

1. Raking mulch that has not rotted over the winter;

2. Mandrel of the sides of the beds;

3. Top dressing with mineral or organic fertilizers;

4. Initial treatment of strawberry bushes for diseases with chemicals or biological products;

5. Mulching.

CLEANING AND AIMING "MARAFET"

We are sure that you mulch your strawberries with one of the suitable organic mulching materials, which means that after the winter, plant residues that have not had time to rot remain on the beds. They should be put in the compost heap. The meaning of this procedure is that the soil covered with mulch warms up more slowly, and in order for strawberry bushes to start growing faster, the earth must be warm. After getting rid of last year's mulch, you need to fix the sides of the ridges.

SPRING STRAWBERRY FEEDING

To stimulate the appearance of fresh green leaves, strawberry bushes can be fed. If you are not against the use of mineral fertilizers in the garden, then choose one of the options for complex feeding:

1 st. l. ammonium sulfate and 2 cups of mullein per 10 liters of water;

1 st. l. nitroammophoski for 10 liters of water.

Proponents of organic farming feed strawberry beds with mullein infusion (1 part manure per 10 parts water) or chicken manure (1 part manure per 12 parts water) or nettle infusion (a bucket of young nettles is poured with warm water and kept for 3-4 days).

Top dressing of strawberries is applied directly under the bush, avoiding contact with the solution on the leaves.

PROCESSING STRAWBERRY FROM PESTS AND MULCHING

In early spring, before the flowering of strawberries, it is recommended to carry out the treatment of bushes against pests. Those who are not afraid of chemicals spray the plants with Taurus or Caesar. For adherents of biological products, there are "Fitoverm" and "Acrofit". Just do not forget that drugs of biological origin are effective at temperatures above + 18 ° C.

Some gardeners prefer to control pests with plain water. Water must be heated to a temperature of 60-65 ° C and pour strawberries over it with a watering can with a fine strainer. The main thing is that the water does not have time to cool down ahead of time and that it falls on the leaves more or less evenly. "Water procedures" not only help to get rid of pests, they also stimulate growth and contribute to the enlargement of berries.

When the soil has warmed up well and the threat of return frosts has ceased to hang like a sword of Damocles over the summer cottage, the strawberry ridges must be mulched again. Spruce and pine needles are best suited for this purpose. The fact is that such a mulch plays the role of a kind of antiseptic - with it, strawberries are not afraid of any diseases. Straw mulch is also good, which allows moisture to pass through well and does not allow the berries to rot. True, slugs and other “gluttonous bellies” can take root in the straw, so coniferous mulch is considered number one for strawberries.