We make a self-leveling floor screed. Why is it necessary and how to work with a self-leveling floor screed? Waterproofing of self-leveling screed

Using the self-leveling floor technology, you can create a perfectly flat surface, which will then serve as a finishing coating for laying parquet, tile, laminate, carpet, etc. At the same time, the bulk floor itself is easily applied to almost any solid surface: wood, concrete, stone base.

Next, we will consider in more detail how to fill the self-leveling floor on a cement-sand screed that is painted oil paint. Initially, we have a fairly flat surface with allowable height differences of no more than 1 centimeter.

Main works:

1. We prepare the base
2. Prepare the bulk mixture
3. We lay the self-leveling floor

Let's consider the main processes in more detail.

1. Preparatory work.

We clean the surface.

It is necessary to approach this stage with special responsibility, since the result obtained may affect all work in the future. It should be noted that if obvious irregularities are present on the surface, then it is likely that the bulk mixture itself will not cover all the shortcomings. Therefore, in order to avoid such circumstances, all irregularities should be smoothed out as much as possible. Also, the presence of chemical and greasy stains can adversely affect the filling of the floor. If they are not eliminated, then in the future the composition of the self-leveling floor may be disturbed: various cracks and chips will appear.

To remove various debris and all kinds of stains, it is acceptable to use a conventional vacuum cleaner with further wet cleaning of the room. Particular attention should be paid to exfoliating weak points. If they are found, carry out the restoration of damaged areas by repairing defects cement mortar.

The end result should be a smooth, clean surface.

We apply a ground layer.

To create deep adhesion, you need to perform a primer. There is no special requirement for the soil mixture, so you can choose any one you like from those on sale today. As an example, it is recommended to choose a soil-concrete contact that allows you to give the floor the desired roughness. The primer should be applied with a brush or roller.

2. Prepare the working mixture.

Before starting work, be sure to read the instructions and how to use the mixture.

Prepare a large container and pour water into it. On average, 5-6 liters of water should be poured into 20 kg of the mixture. Then pour in the dry mixture. For thorough mixing and creating a homogeneous mass, use a construction mixer or a special nozzle on an electric drill. At the same time, be sure to observe the proportions, as an excess of water will make the resulting mass too liquid. This may reduce the mechanical strength of the future floor.

Important: the finished mixture is used during the first 20 minutes. Therefore, do not stir the mixture in large portions. It is better to dilute a little at the first batch and practice styling.

When preparing the mixture, remember that you need to dilute it with water. room temperature, because in hot water the mixture will set faster.

3. Filling the self-leveling floor.

To perform the work, you will need an ordinary spatula and a needle roller. Using a spatula, the finished mixture is applied to the surface base and rolled out with a roller. In this case, the needles of the roller will remove the formed air bubbles.

Lay out the mixture from the far corner of the room. At the same time, make sure that it is distributed evenly (in narrow stripes). Then with a spatula fill in all the existing irregularities. At the end, smooth the self-leveling floor with a spiked roller so that the surface is perfectly smooth. After applying and processing the first strip, proceed with the next one until the entire surface of the floor is covered. The self-leveling floor dries for 10 hours. But it can be operated only after 3 days from the moment the mixture was applied.

Entering the room, the floor is the first thing we see after the doors. Therefore, there are always increased requirements for it, and for finishing are used best materials. But no matter how high quality it is, an uneven surface or insufficient floor stability will destroy the expected effect. Therefore, before carrying out decorative work, laying linoleum or carpet, ceramic tiles or even painting, the floor surface must be perfectly level and stable.

An old concrete or wooden floor can “come to life”, and potholes and chips disappear thanks to modern quick-hardening plastic compositions. You no longer need to use old technologies and carry out special preparations, forget about complex leveling and a long curing time. Now you can make a floor screed on your own much faster without any special knowledge using a self-leveling mixture. All that is needed is to strictly follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

The composition for self-leveling floor screed is a set of specially selected components. When the mixture is diluted to a liquid state, it acquires the ability to spread, creating a completely flat surface. Such a composition of the mixture components has the property of rapid hardening, creating the possibility for the resumption of construction work in a short time.

No heavy construction equipment is required to carry out the work.

The advantages include high hardness, wear resistance, as well as the complete absence of shrinkage. Since the layer thickness is low, the use in buildings with low ceilings will not affect the overall feeling of the height of the room.

Scope of self-leveling screed

1. Preparing for finishing gender. It is used to remove defects in the rough coating, while applying a thin layer of self-leveling screed from 2 to 25 mm high.
2. When installing floor waterproofing. It is used when the base is saturated with oils or other aggressive media, and when the base is wood flooring. The thickness of such a screed ranges from 25 to 60 mm.
3. When installing thermal insulation.
4. When creating underfloor heating. The self-leveling screed hides the cables and water pipes of underfloor heating well, while at the same time leveling the surface. The thickness of the layer directly depends on the height of the laid heating element, but the total height of the screed layer should not exceed 60 mm.

Types of mixtures for floor screed

Self-levelling mixtures can be conditionally divided according to the main binder component or intended purpose.

Mainly at construction work the main component of the floor leveling mixture is cement or gypsum. There are also polymer blends, but they have a special scope and purpose.

Cement

Cement-based mixtures, in addition to cement and building sand, contain polymer additives.

Plasticizers give the liquid mixture increased flowability and increase the rate of solidification. The finished floor is characterized by a high strength index. You can use the product in any room, regardless of the level of humidity. A thin coating layer of a few millimeters is achieved precisely with a cement-based screed.

Gypsum

The composition of gypsum mixtures also includes cement, but gypsum is the main binding component. They are used for screeding in rooms with controlled air humidity. It is often used when leveling large height differences, when it is necessary to make a thick screed, sometimes the fill layer is up to 100 mm.

In terms of strength, a gypsum screed is not inferior to a cement screed, and, taking into account the thickness of the layer, sometimes surpasses it.

Gypsum has a high thermal conductivity, which is why it is actively used in the construction of underfloor heating.

Mixtures can be divided according to their intended purpose:

• for rough alignment. It is used for screeds with a very uneven base or large defects, while the thickness of the created layer can reach up to 10 mm. Can be used as a base for laying ceramic tiles or laminate;
• for fine alignment. Scope of application - finishing, perfect alignment. It is usually done by pouring a cement mixture onto an already leveled screed. The thickness of this coating is up to 5 mm. The quality of the finished floor is suitable for the installation of all kinds of finishing and decorative coatings;
• for complex foundations. The composition of such mixtures includes reinforcing fibers and plasticizers with special properties that give the screed additional properties: increased compressive strength, hydrophobicity, etc. Such compositions are used for screeding on complex wood covering, on a base with a separating layer.

Calculation of the amount of material

We calculate the amount of material

Calculating the amount of purchased material is the most important step for a person who independently makes a screed. Since the material is quite expensive, buying even an extra bag will be burdensome, and vice versa - an insufficient amount of prepared material will not allow you to complete the work, which means that the screed layer will not be monolithic and will lose the necessary quality characteristics.

Before buying, carefully analyze the market for the proposed mixtures, do not neglect to carefully read the instructions printed on the packaging or on the manufacturer's website.

With external similarity, the compositions have different purposes, characteristics, indicators of thickness, strength, consumption. Be sure to pay attention to the units of measurement in which the flow is indicated.

Mathematical calculation of the required amount of self-leveling screed can be carried out according to the formula:

Material = Area * Average Thickness * Consumption * 100

Dividing the calculation result by the weight of one bag, we get the desired amount of the mixture in the bags. To correct the result, taking into account the margin "just in case", we multiply the resulting number by 5%. You can not adjust for "margin" at all if you feel that your calculations for the required height of the overlay layer are accurate.

For clarity, let's take an example. Let the room be 17 square meters. meters, and the average floor level should rise by 6 mm. Let's assume that on the packaging of the mixture in the instructions the material consumption is indicated - 14 kg per 1 sq. square meter, and the weight of the package is 20 kg.

M = 17 * 0.006 * 14 * 100 = 142.8 kg

5% stock = 7.14 kg

142.8 + 7.14 = 149.94 kg

149.94 / 20 = 7.497 ≈ 8 bags

Thus, it is possible to calculate the amount of dry mortar in bags. Even with such a small area and thickness of the future coating, a lot of material will be needed, which is why special attention must be paid to the accuracy in measuring and calculating the layer thickness.

Tools and materials

The specificity of the work on creating a screed is the continuity of the pouring process. To ensure the speed and accuracy of the execution of actions will help the presence of all the required devices and tools.

Squeegee when distributing the solution will be more convenient, especially given the possibility of adjusting the gap between the floor and the fill itself.

In addition to the dry mix, some materials will also be needed for work. When the base for the screed is concrete, you will need a primer, if the base is wooden - an antiseptic. The damper tape, laid around the perimeter of the room, should be slightly wider than the height of the future floor.

Putty to eliminate defects in the preparation of the coating, it must correspond to the coating of the base. When screeding the base with a separating layer, waterproofing will be needed.

Foundation preparation

Due to the small thickness of the screed, any foreign inclusion (fragments of the old concrete pavement, wood chips, etc.) can ruin the whole job. The floor must be thoroughly cleaned from dust and washed from dirt. This will make it possible to see potholes, chips and cracks in the base. Loose surface particles should be removed.

If the base is a wooden surface (for example, parquet board), you need to check the individual elements for rotting, staggering, falling out. All imperfections in the surface of the base must be corrected and repaired with putty or a solution of cement and sand.

Check the evenness of the base with a level, if there are significant deviations in height, level it as much as possible using the same materials. The smoother the floor will be after preparation, the lower the cost of the base material.
When all defects are eliminated, the floor needs to be cleaned and washed again. After drying, prime the surface, taking into account the consumption indicated on the package.

If the primer is absorbed quickly, it means that there is a high porosity at the base, so after the first primer has completely dried, we apply the second one.

The mixing process

There is nothing difficult in this process, the organization is important, since you need to work at a pace and without delay. It will be difficult for an unprepared worker to cope with this task alone.

The whole process as a whole consists of repetitive actions: kneading, pouring, leveling. These steps are repeated several times until the entire surface is covered with self-levelling mortar. Between kneading and the end of leveling, you have only 6-8 minutes.

In detail it looks like this:

Please note that the poured solution hardens quickly. If you work without an assistant, a constant lack of time will lead to the fact that your solution will not have time to mature or you will not have enough time to level the poured mixture over the surface. With a delay, when part of the surface has already frozen, and a fresh solution is poured nearby, sagging will form. Which will adversely affect the evenness and quality of the finished coating.

Video - Mixing and applying the mortar

Video - The secrets of leveling floors with a self-leveling mixture

Do-it-yourself self-leveling floor screed — this is a completely doable process that anyone, even a non-professional, would be able to do. This is very easy to prove.

The floor is the most exploited part of any room, so it is the most subject to wear and tear and often requires repair. The floor must be without flaws and distortions, because the entire interior rests on it.

Lots of modern flooring. For example, the floor can be covered with sophisticated or strict laminate, original ceramics or beautiful linoleum.

In any case, before proceeding with the installation of any finishing floor covering, the floor must be properly prepared, namely, leveled.

To date, the most best base for any flooring is a self-leveling screed, i.e. modern building mix.

The most important feature of such mixtures is the ability to independently distribute evenly over the entire required surface, i.e. spread around the entire perimeter of the room, creating an excellent surface, perfectly smooth and without flaws, suitable for any topcoat.

The self-leveling screed consists of dry construction mixtures and special chemical impurities.

Today, the choice of such mixtures is quite wide, many suppliers are engaged in their production, so there will be no problems with the purchase of a dry mixture of self-leveling floor screed.

The main advantages of a device of this type of screed are: ease of use, high speed of work, availability of materials.

The main thing is to strictly follow all the stages of the technology described below, as well as the manufacturer's recommendations indicated on each package (amount of mixture per unit area, ratio with water, storage conditions).

Before buying any dry mixes that will be needed for repairs, be sure to pay attention to the expiration date, as well as the absence of damage to the packaging. These indicators are very important for obtaining a strong and durable floor base.

Preparing the floor surface for screed

Of course, before proceeding with the installation of a new floor in the room, it is necessary to carry out a stage preparatory work, which will subsequently help to create a perfectly flat surface.

To begin with, it is necessary to completely dismantle all the old coating, i.e. parquet, linoleum, boards.

Then, without fail, it is necessary to check whether there are drops at the base. This is done using a level gauge. The magnitude of the differences will help to clearly determine what type of alignment will be applied in this case.

In cases where the differences are significant, chips and even pits appeared on the surface, a “rough” leveling of the surface is necessarily performed (in other words, it is called “rough”).

So, if there is a need for rough leveling, then special building mixtures of a denser composition are used for it, for example, cement mortar. With its help, surface differences up to 6 cm are eliminated. How to prepare it is described below.

If the surface has differences up to 1 cm, i.e. it is more even, then the “finishing” (in other words, “finishing”) alignment can be started immediately. Such small differences are easily eliminated by liquid building mixtures, namely, self-leveling screeds.

In the case when the surface is relatively flat, but there is a small single defect, for example, one chip, then it is eliminated with a denser building mixture (the same cement mortar) and the mixture is allowed to dry completely.

The prepared surface must be cleaned of dust, sand and any small debris. At home, a vacuum cleaner is great for this.

Now that the surface is clean and dry, it must be primed with a special primer solution. This will further enhance the adhesion of the applied mixture and the base. If the surface contains a large number of then it should be primed twice.

Preparation of cement mortar

To prepare a cement mortar, the components are first mixed in a container (for example, a basin) in a dry form (cement with sand in a ratio of 1: 3).

It is enough to choose cement grades M200, or M300, higher grades (respectively, more expensive), in this case it is not rational to use.

Then the resulting mixture is diluted with water, mixing thoroughly with a spatula to prevent lumps, bring it to the desired consistency (the solution should turn out “like sour cream”, but not too liquid).

The resulting cement mortar is first sealed with deep chips and pits, and then applied to the surface and leveled with a rule to the level.

Only after the “rough” floor is dry, they proceed to the primer and “fine” leveling.

Self-levelling screed application guide

Attention: liquid self-leveling screed can only be applied to a clean floor after complete drying of the repaired defects, rough coat, primer.

Tools you will need to apply the screed

In order to carry out work on applying a self-leveling screed to the floor, it will be necessary to prepare certain tools and appropriate devices:

• container for mixing the solution (bucket, basin);
• drill;
• mixer (or a special nozzle for a drill);
• level gauge;
• a roller with a needle structure;
• dry mix "self-leveling floor" (selected manufacturer);
• self-adhesive edge tape;
• personal protective equipment for eyes and hands.

Instructions for direct application of the screed

Before starting work, a special edge tape should be glued around the entire perimeter of the room (at the bottom of the walls). This will help to avoid gluing the screed to the wall and protect against cracks.

It is worth paying attention to the temperature of the air in the room. It is not desirable that it be below +15 0 C.

To do this, the selected dry mix "self-leveling floor" in a specially prepared container must be diluted with water. In this case, it is important to strictly observe the proportions of water and the mixture, which are indicated by the manufacturer on the package.

When preparing the solution, thorough mixing is mandatory. The solution must be homogeneous and without lumps. To achieve this effect when mixing, you can use a mixer (or a drill with a special mixer nozzle).

The resulting solution must be poured onto the surface as evenly as possible. Be sure to take into account the area for which the packaging of the dry mixture is designed.

Start pouring the floor with mortar from the far corner of the room, gradually moving towards the exit. The solution is recommended to be applied in sections of approximately 40 cm.

Pouring the solution onto the surface, it is immediately distributed over the area, and then the floor is very carefully rolled with a special roller, which has a needle-like texture. The use of such a roller is necessary to eliminate air bubbles and increase the strength and service life of the screed.

Attention: in no case should you stop pouring, the room must be completely filled in one day! Therefore, it is worthwhile to calculate in advance the volume and the required time for pouring.

The poured screed is left until it dries completely. This takes at least a day.

Only when the screed on the floor is completely dry, the surface has become even and smooth, you can proceed to the next stage of floor repair - installation of the selected floor covering.

Thus, if you carefully familiarize yourself with a rather simple technology for performing this work and follow the recommendations of material manufacturers, then do-it-yourself self-leveling floor screed is a realistic process that anyone can handle. And for this it is not necessary to have a special education or extensive work experience. The floor is guaranteed to last quite a long time!

Unlike concrete structure, self-leveling floor screed does not need beacons when pouring and leveling the surface after hardening. Only one category of dry mixes has self-levelling properties - self-leveling floor.

For floor screeds, a budget mineral self-leveling floor based on gypsum and cement is usually used.

On the initial stage an individual developer needs to decide on the terminology:

• in normative documentation SP screed is called the layer under the floor covering;
• it is necessary for the manufacture of slopes (bath, shower), disguise engineering systems(electrical, underfloor heating pipes, cold water, hot water, heating or sewerage), insulation and soundproofing, leveling floor slabs or providing rigidity over wooden subflooring;
• a self-leveling screed is made only from a self-leveling floor on a gypsum or cement binder.

Budget gypsum self-leveling mixture.

Individual developers choose a self-leveling self-leveling floor because of the convenience of manufacturing a screed (beacons are not needed, the drying time is much less than that of concrete).

In order for a self-leveling screed to last longer with your own hands, when choosing a self-leveling floor, you should focus on the table below:

Unlike concrete screeds, a structure made of self-leveling mixtures can be brought to zero and not reinforced.

Self-levelling screed technology

Due to the short life of the self-levelling floor mortar, the preparation of the subfloor must be completed completely before the preparation of the mixture. The volume is pre-calculated, bags with dry mix are prepared in the required quantity and opened in an adjacent room.

If necessary, insulation, reinforcing mesh and contours of a water-heated floor are laid. One room is poured at one time, the spiked roller and paint shoes must be prepared in advance.

Preparatory work

In order for self-leveling compounds to have the resource declared by the manufacturer, it is necessary to prepare the base and determine the layer thickness. To do this, perform several operations in strict sequence:

For screeding with a self-leveling floor, lining paper is spread on the surface on the boardwalk of the subfloor with an overlap of strips of 8 cm at least.

The main problem in the repair / redevelopment is the presence of partitions or false panels made of plasterboard:

• on the one hand, it is forbidden to rely on screeds;
• on the other hand, drywall loses its strength when absorbing moisture, which is inevitably present in rooms with wet processes.

The frame of the partition from the profile is assembled before the manufacture of the screed.

Therefore, it is recommended to build a frame from a galvanized profile for a false panel or a partition as a whole. Sheathe it only at the lower level with GKL strips 20–30 cm high, install the rest of the drywall after the screed has completely dried.

Preparing the mixture

To eliminate errors self-manufacturing Self-leveling flooring compound has instructions for use on the packaging. It is recommended to use large containers, inside of which a bag of self-leveling floor will fit, taking into account the required amount of water in its entirety.

After adding the mixture to water, primary mixing and settling (usually 5-15 minutes), the bulk floor is stirred again with a mixer.

Attention: If the volume of water is indicated incorrectly (found in little-known brands), it is necessary to calculate the proportions empirically, ensuring a spreadability of 1:3. In this case, the solution from the cap of a 1.5 liter bottle, poured onto glass, should be three times the corresponding size of the container.

Surface application

Pour the self-levelling mixture prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions should begin at the corner farthest from the door. Despite the fact that the solution spreads perfectly under the action of gravitational forces to a horizontal level, it is necessary to additionally equalize the thickness of the layer with a doctor blade, spatula or rule.

The distribution of the mixture over the base.

Since the viability of the mixture is rather low, it should not be delayed with its application to the surface. Beacons-beacons are transferred to new areas after preliminary leveling of the solution, so they do not need to be purchased in large quantities.

Air removal

When mixing, the self-leveling floor inevitably dissolves air, which must be removed after the mixture is leveled over the surface of the base. Otherwise, the remaining bubbles will reduce the performance of the screed.

The operation is done by hand using a spiked roller, which evenly rolls the entire flooded surface of the structure. To walk on a liquid solution, paint shoes are used, fastened with straps to the master's shoes.

Air removal with a roller.

With the contact method of pouring, the adhesive strength of the bulk self-leveling floor with the base must be more than 1.5 MPa. If the package indicates a lower value, you should not buy such a product. If the screed is made on a separating layer, the developer must pay attention to another characteristic of the dry mixture - compressive strength. According to the standards of SP 29.13330, this parameter for the screed must be above 20 MPa.

Thus, when choosing a bulk floor for a self-leveling screed, it is necessary to take into account the amount of work, the type of finish, the purpose and humidity inside the room. Such materials are specially designed to reduce labor costs and the qualifications of the home master. Therefore, all work can be done on their own.

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The bulk floor is poured to level the surface. When the subfloor is flooded, flaws are revealed in it in the form of an uneven surface relative to the level and small depressions in the form of pits. This material will tell and show how to fix such defects.

So, I practiced two ways to level the surface using a self-leveling floor and a leveling screed. Consider their pros and cons.

Instruments:

• brush 15cm wide
• capacity 40 liters
• drill mixer
• needle roller for self-leveling floor
• spatula wide, narrow
• notched trowel, with a tooth height of 8-10 mm
• level
• rule
• trowel

Work progress

First way. self-leveling floor

Before starting work with a self-leveling floor, the surface must be cleaned of dust. It is advisable to do this with a vacuum cleaner. After that, we prime the surface with liquid glass (LS).

Its absorbency in the base of the floor depends on the consistency of the ZhS. It is necessary to dilute it in a ratio of 1 to 2 (one part of water to two parts of ZhS) and treat the surface, preferably in 2-3 layers. The time interval before the next application should be about 1 hour. Works are carried out at a temperature not lower than + 10 C.

After the LS has dried, the surface should take on a characteristic shade, as after applying varnish.

We do this so that when applying the self-leveling floor, all the moisture contained in the mixture is not absorbed into the floor, and the mixture itself does not dry out, but gradually hardens. Also, this procedure will serve as a kind of waterproofing of the floor.

Before kneading the self-leveling floor mixture, we make a wooden sole to fit the size of the shoe with self-tapping screws screwed into it. This is done so that after applying the self-leveling floor, you can walk on it without stepping on the whole foot.

We knead with a mixer the finished mixture of the self-leveling floor.

We carry out this work strictly according to the instructions indicated on the bag.

After that, pour the mixed mixture onto the floor and level with a spatula.

This also contributes to the uniform smoothing of the mixture along the plane.

In my case, after the floor is dry.

Cobweb-shaped cracks appeared on the floor, which means temperature conditions indicated on the bag were not met.

To eliminate them, you can stick a grid for puttying facades.

First, apply the adhesive with a notched trowel.

In this way, we will fix the problem.

After the tile adhesive had dried, the linoleum was laid.

The second way. Floor leveling screed

To begin with, we perform the same work with ZhS, that is, we prime the surface. Then we prepare a cement-sand mixture (CPS), which includes sifted sand (coarse-grained), cement, tile adhesive in a ratio of 3 × 1x1 (three parts of sand, one cement, one tile adhesive).

The process begins with the installation of beacons by level. Next, apply the DSP with a notched trowel. The mixture must be rubbed into the floor surface.

After that, we level the DSP applied to the floor with the rule. While it is not completely frozen, rub the surface with a trowel.

You should get a uniform, even surface.

After the leveling screed has dried, for strength, we additionally impregnate it with liquid glass, diluted with water in a ratio of 2 to 1.

After the liquid glass dries, linoleum or any other coating spreads.

Conclusions about working with self-leveling floor and leveling screed

Bulk floor. It is easy and simple to work with him. Its thickness can be from 3 to 10 mm, but the price for the finished mixture is high. The need to follow the instructions for working with the mixture is also a minus.

Leveling strap. If you have enough time and budget, this is a suitable option.
Reminder: the main disadvantage of the leveling screed is that it reduces the height of the room by 10-15 mm, while the thickness of the self-leveling floor can be only 3 mm.