Instructions for warming the entrance wooden door with your own hands. Do-it-yourself insulated (“warm”) door Do-it-yourself warm front door

08.03.2020

Despite the emergence of a wide variety of structural materials, wood has not gone out of fashion for many centuries. The reasons for such popularity lie in its unique qualities of this material to create comfort in the house and transform its appearance. Important advantages of wood include its environmental friendliness, low thermal conductivity and, with proper processing, enviable durability. Modern technologies and tools provide new opportunities in the processing of wood, bringing its surface to perfection and at the same time emphasizing the natural beauty.

Insulated wooden entrance doors of various models and designs can be found in specialized stores or ordered from specialized companies involved in wood processing and the manufacture of door sets from it. However, if desired and possessing basic technological skills for carpentry, a wooden door with insulation can be made independently.

Moreover, it should be noted that if the wood itself is of high quality and the necessary pre-treatment, in the process of manufacturing the door, you can do without expensive professional tools. Of course, in this case, the work will take more time and effort, but by doing the assembly yourself, you can save a decent amount.

As you know, in the cold season, heat losses from the house heated from the inside occur through various elements of the building structure, and doors are no exception. This means that the total amount of thermal energy loss directly depends on how well the door and its frame are made and insulated.

Types of entrance doors

Paneled door

Wooden panel doors can be made entirely of natural wood or glued laminated lumber, but composite materials are also often used, such as MDF - for the manufacture of panels. This model is also suitable for installation at the entrance, but it is still most often used for doorways apartments or private houses located in regions with a mild winter climate. Often, in order to use such a design as an input, an insulating material is laid on it from the inside, covered with leatherette.

Paneled doors by themselves are not a sufficiently "warm" assembly, since the parts from which they are made can be from different materials, have different thickness, density, heat-conducting qualities.

If the canvas is assembled from various types of wood that differ in color and texture, then in order to achieve aesthetics and harmony in appearance, the parts are pasted over with natural veneer, which further reduces the thermal conductivity of the material.

The panel structure is made of solid or glued beams, it includes the top, bottom, one or more middle horizontal crossbars and a vertical mullion (there is also one or more). Horizontal crossbars serve as "stiffening ribs" for the web, and the more of these elements are installed, the less risk of deformation of the structure.

The structural elements are connected to each other with a spike connection, and then fastened with dowels.

Panels made of MDF or natural boards, processed along the edges with a milling cutter, are glued into the windows that form the frame. The thickness of the edges of the panel panels should be approximately ⅓ of the frame timber. The panels are installed in the grooves chosen for them in the frame beam or fixed with a figured glazing bead.

It should be noted that despite the fact that the paneled door consists of numerous elements glued together, with high-quality performance, it is in no way inferior to a massive one in terms of reliability and strength.

Paneled doors, made by real craftsmen, sometimes have a cost that exceeds the prices of massive structures, since much in determining this criterion depends on the type of material used and on the aesthetic design.

Frame and panel structures of doors

Framed front doors can be called the most common option, as they are mostly affordable. There are, of course, quite expensive models - this parameter will depend on the materials from which the frame of the structure is made, its filler and finish.

The frames of this type of doors are made of massive board or glued timber. For external cladding, MDF, fiberboard or lining made of natural wood, 10 mm thick, of different widths, is used, which is installed horizontally, vertically, diagonally, or various geometric patterns are formed from it. A variety of materials are used as insulating filler. They are guided by this criterion when choosing a door at the place of its installation or according to the climatic conditions of the region. So, foam, mineral wool, shavings, cardboard or paper honeycombs are used as an insulating material.

Sometimes the frame consists of only strapping timber, and the space between two sheathing panels is filled with low-grade lumber.

Frame or panel structures of doors are solid, hollow or small-hollow:

Panel doors are called solid door structures, that is, a shield is assembled from an unedged or low-quality timber, which is sheathed on both sides with fiberboard or MDF. Wooden lining in this type of door, as a rule, is not used, otherwise the door will turn out to be excessively massive. A similar design can be used as an entrance only for apartments in high-rise buildings, since the entrance premises themselves are a certain barrier that delays the street cold. But even in such conditions of the entrance, good owners sheathe the door with insulating material in combination with leatherette.

Hollow door, which consists of a strapping and one or two crossbars, sheathed with fiberboard, MDF or clapboard. The space between the facing canvases remains empty. It follows from this that this door is in no way suitable for installing it at the entrance of a house or apartment. Its purpose is to separate the interior spaces.

Small-hollow structures can have different fillings, including thermal insulation material. But if such a door is planned to be installed at the entrance, it makes sense to completely fill its cavity using heaters with low thermal conductivity - polystyrene foam, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, and in combination with them foil polyethylene foam can also be used.

Having figured out what each of the types of doors installed on the entrance opening is, you can choose one of them for self-production. First of all, to carry out this process, you will need to stock up on tools and materials.

Tools for the job

For any carpentry work, you must have special tools. Even if it is not possible to purchase expensive modern devices, it is quite possible to get by with a classic hand set.

Despite the emergence of modern electrified tools, the "classic" manual ones also do not go out of use.

For the convenience of work, you will need a reliable and stable workbench, on which the manufacture, processing and assembly of structural parts will be carried out.
The work will be extremely simplified if the owner has a milling cutter in the set of power tools. It will help to accurately and accurately process wood, give the desired shape and size to door details, select grooves and nests, and even decorate the canvas with some kind of relief pattern. If this tool is not available, then you can use milling drills by installing them in a screwdriver or drill. Previously, when there were no such convenient devices at all, carpenters used chisels and cutters of various configurations for these purposes. So if it is not possible to purchase a milling cutter, stock up on a set of chisels.

A hand planer is also capable, in certain cases, of replacing milling machine. They are leveled and adjusted to the size of the part, if necessary, corners (bevels) are cut, and other technological operations are performed.
In order for the elements of the door to be glued together with high quality and firmly, it is impossible to do without clamps that will tighten the parts assembled into a canvas.
For the manufacture of blanks, hacksaws will be required.
Hammers are needed - ordinary and rubber (or wooden - a mallet).
The final finish will require an electric grinder and sandpaper to it. The grinder can be replaced with a small piece of a bar, on which sandpaper is nailed or screwed on.
To assemble the structure, install locks and hinges, drill holes for dowels or self-tapping screws, you need a screwdriver. In extreme cases, you can get by with a drill and a set of screwdrivers.
Measuring and marking equipment is needed - a tape measure, a ruler, a folding ruler, a carpenter's corner, a simple pencil or a marker is a must.

Door materials

To make a door, you will need materials that need to be prepared in advance:

Wood - in terms of size, grade and quantity, lumber is selected individually for each type of product.
Special wood glue.
Self-tapping screws of various lengths and wooden dowels. Usually they are used by professional craftsmen to fix wooden parts to each other. But some manufacturers prefer metal corners and trims.
Warming material.

It should be noted that each type of door may require Additional materials- they will be mentioned when describing the procedure for manufacturing models.

How to choose wood?

For the door to work long time and has not dried up or deformed, the choice of wood must be approached with all responsibility. The main material of construction is selected according to the following criteria:

The type of wood is selected depending on the type of construction and financial capabilities. If it will be produced massive door without additional insulation, then it is worth choosing more expensive types of material that have a high density - it can be oak or cedar, larch or wood of some fruit trees.
For the manufacture of a leaf for a massive or paneled door, commercial wood is purchased that has a minimum number of knots. Lower-grade wood can be chosen for tying the frame structure, but if it is sheathed with wooden clapboard, then facing material must be of the highest quality.
It is important to choose lumber that has optimal humidity- it should be 11÷15%. Only in this case, the material will be easy to process, and products made from it will serve for a long time without deforming, swelling or drying out. The best option would be wood that has been dried in a special chamber.

When choosing lumber, special attention is paid to their grade, degree of drying and evenness.

When buying, each of the boards (bars) is checked for evenness. This process is carried out visually, and even better - with the laying of the purchased parts on a flat surface. So all the shortcomings will be immediately noticeable.
To finished door leaf had a thickness of 50 mm, you need to choose:

- for a massive door - a board 50 mm thick;

- for a frame door sheathed with five-millimeter fiberboard, a bar or board of 40 mm, and sheathed with a ten-millimeter clapboard - 30 mm thick;

- for strapping and cross-beams of a paneled canvas, you will need a board 50 mm thick, and for panels, depending on their design - from 15 ÷ 20 mm.

In order for the structure to have good rigidity, it is better to choose boards for strapping or making the entire web with a width of 120 ÷ 150 mm.

Before installation, all boards and bars must be processed with a grinder by installing fine-grained sandpaper on it, or manually.

What kind of insulation to use?

Since, basically, all homeowners prefer to insulate their front doors, you should also consider which thermal insulation materials are most often used for these purposes.

Prices for entrance doors Zetta

Zetta door

Whichever one is chosen, in order to enhance the insulating effect and prevent drafts from entering the premises, it is imperative to seal the door frame. For this, mounting foams, special foam rubber self-adhesive pads or PSUL tapes (pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tapes) are most often used. Any of these options will do for all types of doors.

The most common heaters for thermal insulation of the front door leaf:

Material parameters	Izolon (polyethylene foam)	Styrofoam	Mineral wool
Compressive strength at 10% deformation, not less than (Kpa)	0.031÷0.33	40÷160	-
Density, kg/m³	25÷200	15÷50	11÷50
Thermal conductivity coefficient at 25±5˚С (W/(m×°K)	0.031÷0.037	0.038÷0.041	0.036÷0.043
Water absorption, % by volume, not less than	1.0÷1.5	1.8÷4.0	10÷15
Flammability group	G2÷G4	G2÷G4	NG÷G1

Mineral wool has high thermal insulation characteristics and is often used for internal insulation frame doors. Its disadvantage can be called the fact that over time it tends to sag, exposing some areas of the canvas space between the skin. In order to prevent this phenomenon, it is advisable to glue the mineral wool mats on a waterproof adhesive, distributing it in strips on the surface to be insulated. Mineral wool mats are produced, which are equipped with a foil layer - this version of the material is more expensive, but its thermal insulation characteristics are much higher. In addition, due to the foil layer, the insulation becomes more rigid, therefore, the risk of its shrinkage is reduced.

Foam rubber up to 10 mm thick is used for external insulation doors from the inside of the room, followed by closing it with leatherette or leatherette lining, which is fixed with decorative nails.

How to insulate an already finished door?

To do this, you can perform its decorative upholstery with laying a thin insulation material under it. How to do it correctly - read in a separate publication of our portal.

Good insulating qualities are shown by isolon - foil polyethylene foam

Izolon or foamed polyethylene has high insulating characteristics, and a variant of this material tends to reflect heat into the room, so it is very widely used for thermal insulation. Isolon is somewhat reminiscent of foam rubber, but more effective, and can be used in combination with other insulation materials. It is used to enhance internal insulation and to fix on the inner surface of the door for decorative trim.

Most inexpensive option- use expanded polystyrene for door insulation

Expanded polystyrene also has good thermal insulation qualities. In addition, it is tightly installed between the frame elements and does not change its shape throughout the entire period of operation. However, one should not forget that this material eventually begins to release formaldehydes, which are harmful to human health. In addition, polystyrene foam can not be called fireproof.

Polyurethane foam is perfect for thermal insulation of the interior space of a frame door, as it completely seals all joints of parts, penetrating into any gap. Using this material, it is not necessary to use sophisticated equipment - you can simply use mounting foam, which has a convenient packaging for work. Excess polyurethane foam rising above the frame can be easily cut off with a sharp knife.

find out detailed instructions like, from new article on our portal.

Production and insulation of a paneled door

This type of door consists of a considerable number of parts, and each of them has a rather complex shape. Therefore, in order for the assembly of elements into a single canvas to be of high quality, all parts must be very carefully made in size and processed with high quality. If all these operations are carried out manually, then the manufacture of the door leaf will take a lot of time. In the case when there is no significant experience in working with wood, but it is still decided to make the door yourself, you should not choose complex structures - it would be better to choose a simple and affordable version of the frame type.

Illustration
	It will be easier to do the job if you make detailed drawing products and put down the dimensions on it. In the presented drawing, you can see the simplest version of a paneled door with a minimum number of connecting seams, since the canvas has only two panels in its composition. Individual parts are numbered and named: 1-horizontal upper mullion included in the harness; 2-upper panel; 3-vertical strapping bars; 4-middle center; 5-lower panel; 6- horizontal lower mullion included in the harness. This drawing does not contain dimensions, but from it it becomes clear what parameters need to be calculated when drawing up a project for the manufacture of such a product, putting down the data necessary for a particular doorway.
	For the manufacture of strapping and mullions, it is necessary to prepare a massive or glued beam, but if the second material option is chosen, then it should be noted that due to glue it will be more difficult to process. Ready, well-planed timber on one side is processed by a milling cutter. A groove is cut out in it for installing panels in it and connecting the parts to each other. In some cases, curly cuts are made along the edges of the groove - chamfers. They will replace the glazing bead that fixes the panel panel. If glazing beads are used, the edges of the timber can be left even. In addition, if a heater is fixed on the inside of the paneled door, then wooden details can be "finished" only from the outer edge.
	Next, you need to work on the connecting elements, since you will have to fasten the horizontal and vertical strapping elements together and (for the model shown in the drawing) one mullion. To do this, in the horizontal elements along the edges, a spike of the desired size is cut out with a milling cutter, and in the vertical elements, the corresponding grooves. The tongue and groove should be ⅓ thick of the timber used. The connection can be different, and which one to choose for ease of manufacture is up to the master to decide. The grooves cut in the horizontal bars should ideally fit the spikes, and the parts should fit snugly together. In order for this work to be done accurately, before starting it, you need to carry out an accurate markup.
	Panels, as mentioned above, are made of chipboard, board or MDF. If boards are selected, then a panel of them is assembled (glued together, pulled together in clamps and dried) in advance. Plywood with a thickness of 20 mm can be processed immediately after the groove-thorn joints are made. If the inner side of the canvas is insulated, then the processing of the panels can only be carried out from the outside.
	Sometimes a panel blank can be assembled in thickness from two or three layers, which allows its middle part to be raised to the level of the thickness of the strapping beam. In this variant, shaped overlays are glued on the middle flat plywood panel on both sides or only on one side. Such panels are glued together under pressure, as they must form one whole panel. The middle layer of the panel must be fitted to the groove, which is arranged in the strapping bars and the mullion. In order for the part to freely enter the groove, its thickness is made 1-2 mm less than the width of the groove.
	After all the details of the door are made, it is advisable to treat them separately with antiseptic and flame retardant impregnations, if necessary, immediately cover them with stain and dry them.
	After drying the parts, you can begin to assemble them into a single canvas. This work should be carried out on a flat, solid table (workbench). To be sure, before “planting” the parts on carpentry glue, they are assembled dry. If all the spikes are tightly installed in the grooves, and as a result of the assembly, a perfectly even design of the door leaf is obtained, then you can proceed to the assembly with glue. The evenness of the door is checked by measuring it diagonally and comparing the lengths obtained - they must be the same.
	To make the work go smoothly, it is carried out in stages: - the first step is to glue a horizontal part of the strapping into one of the vertical bars; - further, a panel is glued into the resulting right angle and gently tapped with a rubber mallet until the spikes fit snugly into the grooves of the horizontal and vertical bar; - after that, in the middle groove of the vertical beam and the bottom side of the panel, a mullion is installed on the glue, also knocked out with a rubber hammer; - then, the second panel is glued into the mullion and the vertical beam; - further on the lower part of the panel and the lower groove in the vertical beam, the second horizontal part of the strapping is mounted; - the final and most difficult stage of assembly is the installation of the last vertical side of the strapping, it is necessary to immediately install the spikes of the crossbars and the mullion, as well as the uncovered sides of the panels.
	While the glue has not dried, the entire structure can still be corrected. To do this, you first need to check the dimensions of the diagonals of the structure again - if they have the same length, then this means that the corners of the canvas are straight. Additionally, corners are checked using a building corner. After making sure that the canvas is glued evenly, it is clamped into clamps until the glue is completely dry.
	Only after the canvas is dried, the strapping in the corners and at the connection with the mullion are fastened with dowels. To do this, two diagonally placed through holes are drilled in these zones, the size of which will be 1 ÷ 1.5 mm larger than the dowel diameter. The dowels are lubricated with glue and carefully hammered into the holes. After the glue dries, the bonding point is cleaned, if necessary, covered with putty.
	Having completed these steps, the panels are framed with glazing beads. They are also fixed with wood glue, but for fidelity, subtle carnations can also be used, for example, by biting off their hats.
	Next, the door leaf is marked for holes and sockets, in which fittings will be installed - locks, handles and hinges.
	According to the markings in the door leaf, holes are drilled into which fittings are tried on, but they will be installed after painting and warming the door leaf.
	If the door is planned to be painted or varnished, then this process is carried out in the sequence shown in the diagram. In order for the coloring to look neat, it is necessary to ensure that the paint does not gather in the corners. Even if the paneled door is planned to be insulated from the inside, painting is done on both sides of the leaf, as this will create an additional layer of protection for the wood. Warming is carried out after the paint is completely dry.
	If the door has not yet been installed in the opening, then it will be easier to insulate it and sheathe it with finishing material, but it will also not be difficult to insulate the canvas already hung on the hinges. Foam rubber is required for insulation, if desired, isolon, leather substitute, decorative nails can be used with it. The foam rubber is laid out on the door leaf, the desired size is measured and the excess is cut off. Since the insulation will subsequently be nailed to a wooden surface, it can be temporarily fixed with double-sided tape. After that, holes are outlined and cut out in the heat insulator - for the eye and the installation of locks and handles.
	If more is required effective insulation, then an isolon is laid on top of the foam rubber with the foil side up. In the case of using two materials in combination, their common layer should not have a thickness of more than 15 mm. In isolon, as well as in foam rubber, it will be necessary to cut holes, and then the material is fixed to the wooden surface with staples, but not along the very edge of the canvas, but with an indent from it of 20 ÷ 25 mm. Leatherette is laid on top of the insulation and is also fixed in several places. If the door is sheathed "on weight", then all materials begin to be fixed from above, gradually falling down.
	It should be clarified that the door trim that opens outward is different from the finish of the leaf that opens inward. The photo shows a version of the door that opens inward. Insulating it, in addition to the general sheathing fabric, use strips of leatherette, 180 ÷ 200 mm wide, which should protrude about half the fabric. Then these strips are bent in half, and a foam roller or a piece of foam rubber is inserted inside them. Further, the lower part of the bent strip is tucked under the insulation laid on the entire surface, and its upper part is laid on top of the leatherette, folded inward by 10 mm and fixed with decorative nails. G air is clogged at a distance of 100 ÷ 150 mm from each other.
	If the door opens outward, then a strip with a foam roller is nailed to the door frame from inside the apartment. The fixed strip should protrude beyond the frame by 20 ÷ 25 mm, as it should tightly cover the gap between the door leaf and the frame elements.
	In this version, leatherette is nailed to the surface of the door, stepping back from its edge by 10 ÷ 15 mm - this must be observed in order for the door to fit snugly against the posts and crossbars of the door jamb.
	Locks and handles, as well as a viewing eye, are installed on top of the leatherette upholstery. The cut uneven edges of the material are tucked into the holes prepared for the installation of the lock.
	How to properly install the fittings, and what size gaps need to be provided between the door frame and the leaf, can be seen in this diagram. Also here you can clearly see how the box itself is assembled. According to the marked places, the necessary grooves are selected at the end of the door and the door hinges are screwed. Then the door is installed in the door frame, on which the reciprocal parts of the hinged hinges are already marked and screwed.

It can also be noted here that a massive door, if necessary, is insulated in exactly the same way.

Production and insulation of a frame door

A panel door, as well as a paneled or massive one, is insulated from the outside - its internal space is completely filled with low-quality wood - it may not be a cut timber or a board assembled into a shield and sheathed on the outside with fiberboard or thin plywood.

The frame door consists of a strapping and several crossbars or diagonally installed struts, between which insulation material is laid - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, or the space is completely filled with mounting foam. The entire structure of the entrance frame door is sheathed on the outside with wooden clapboard. Some craftsmen install a thin metal sheet under the lining, which will make the door more reliable.

If desired, the surface facing the premises can be sheathed with fiberboard, and then additionally insulated with foam rubber, followed by upholstery with leatherette.

This version of the door can be called the most economical and easiest to manufacture.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	Before making a material calculation, it is necessary to decide how the lining will be located, with which the door leaf will be sheathed, since how to install the frame cross members will depend on this.
	If the entire lining will be fixed vertically, then it is enough to install one or two crossbars. Horizontal sheathing requires the installation of two vertical bars inside the strapping. If the skin will have a more complex pattern, consisting of small elements, then for each of them it is necessary to provide support bars, to which each of the elements of the pattern will be fixed on both sides.
	Whatever sheathing is conceived, the first thing to do is to assemble a reliable frame. For him, parts are prepared from a bar of the desired length.
	At the corners, the beam can have different connections. Sometimes the “groove-thorn” method is used, but it is easier to use the “half-tree” or “paw” methods shown in the presented diagram. Taking into account the fact that the entire structure will be sheathed with clapboard, which will give it additional rigidity, such connections are quite suitable for fastening strapping bars. In order for the length of the groove to be the same, and washed down evenly, you first need to mark the edges of the timber. The depth of the grooves should be half the thickness of the timber.
	Having prepared the strapping elements, you need to make and internal details frame, according to a pre-drawn drawing. Crossbars or vertical bars can be connected to the harness using the connections mentioned above, or using metal corners. Before installation, all joints of the timber are smeared with glue, set up along the building corner. The structure is compressed with clamps and left to dry.
	When the glue is completely dry, two holes are drilled on the joints, into which wooden dowels are carefully hammered. The drilled holes should have a diameter of 10-12 mm, respectively, the diameter of the dowel can be 1-1.5 mm less so that it fits freely into the hole. Before hammering it, it is smeared with glue. The protruding part of the dowel is cut off only after the glue has dried.
	If the strapping beam is not wide enough, then in the area where the lock is installed, it is necessary to make an inlay from the beam.
	Further, the side of the frame, which will go into the hallway, is sheathed with one of the selected materials. Most often, fiberboard or plywood is chosen, 5 ÷ 8 mm thick, but some craftsmen prefer to sheathe both sides with clapboard 10 mm thick.
	The lining must be well processed and have a beautiful textured pattern, only in this case the door will look respectable. The lining must be covered with an antiseptic composition and flame retardant, then allow the funds to soak and dry.
	Warming is carried out after all the elements are dried. To do this, one of the heat-insulating materials is placed between the slats. If mineral wool is chosen, then it is best to fix it with glue, which is applied to the inside of the skin. It is also recommended to fix a rolled isolon on top of the cotton wool - foamed foil material, 3 ÷ 5 mm thick. The foil should be facing towards the room. Izolon can be fixed on the frame elements with staples and a stapler.
	When used for thermal insulation of foam, it is cut into separate pieces, having the size and shape of the space between the bars of the frame - the material must fit snugly with it. Nevertheless, gaps still form between the foam plastic and wooden elements, and they must be filled with mounting foam - it will additionally fix the insulation in the frame.
	The best and most convenient option for insulating a frame door is foil-clad mineral wool. It is laid with foil towards the room, to reflect heat into the premises. This material is well cut with a sharp knife, and the foil gives the material additional rigidity.
	The next step is lining the second side of the door leaf with clapboard. To make the finish look neat and complete, it is recommended to fix a frame from the lining along the perimeter of the canvas, and elements according to the selected pattern are already installed inside it. The lining strips are connected to each other using a groove-thorn connection, and fixed on the frame with 20 mm nails or self-tapping screws, which are driven or screwed into the groove of the installed panel. You can use special metal holders - kleimers for fixing. They are installed on the lower "shelf" of the groove, and through them the lining is fixed to the frame. After sheathing, such a mount becomes completely invisible.
	Next, the door is installed in the door frame, and the hinges are marked. Then, according to their size, at the end of the door leaf and on the frame, wood is selected to the desired depth, since the hinge plates must be located flush with the surfaces of the parts on which they are attached.
	After hanging the door on the hinges, markings are made for mounting the lock and handle. The lock is applied to the canvas, where the depth of its installation is noted, and on the end part - the width and height of the groove to be knocked out. After that, the appropriate “nest” is selected for the lock using chisels and a drill or a milling cutter. In the latter case, the canvas will have to be removed and laid in a horizontal position. A lock is inserted into the finished hole and fixed. Then, grooves for the bolts of the locks are cut out in the door frame, and the corresponding metal linings are attached.
	Along the perimeter of the door frame, a foam rubber or silicone insulation tape is glued to the porch. Thanks to this seal, the door in the closed state will fit snugly against the frame, which will significantly reduce the risk of drafts.

After reviewing the nuances of insulation, each home master himself can choose the method of thermal insulation. So, if you plan to insulate an already finished door, you can use foam rubber or foamed polyethylene in combination with leatherette. Well, if you plan independent production of this product, then the frame version will be the most accessible even for a novice craftsman who has not yet received sufficient experience in carpentry practice. Let the video tutorial below help him:

Video: making a simple frame-type insulated door

In cold winters, residents of private houses often suffer from heat loss or ice drafts. Causes of leakage warm air there may be many, but the most common places are windows and doors. Increasingly, people prefer plastic windows, which, when correct installation guarantee the preservation of heat, and we will tell you how to insulate the door in a private house.

Main cause of drafts

The main reason for the appearance of a draft in the house is the loose fit of the door leaf to the formation of cracks. This can happen with old wooden doors, which settle down over time, and with new metal ones, in which a layer can simply be erased or peeled off. rubber seal. In this case, it is very simple to insulate the front door with your own hands: you need to choose a sealant of the desired thickness and stick it around the perimeter of the frame. Using rubber that is too thick may cause the door to not close.

Metal doors can be made from one sheet of metal or from two, between which there is free space. That's it and you need to fill it with material that prevents heat loss. How to insulate a door? In a private house or apartment, you must first remove the inner door trim, put a layer of insulation inside, attaching it with help. After that, you can install the trim back. Insulation of a single-leaf door is carried out in a similar way: a frame is made from wooden bars, which is screwed with self-tapping screws to metal surface. A heater is laid inside it, the thickness of which should be less than the width of the door profile. This element is attached to "liquid nails", and the empty space can be filled with foam. Final stage- sew up the surface with laminated fiberboard or plywood. As a heater for a metal door, it is recommended to use foam sheets, expanded polystyrene, it will retain its properties much longer than foam rubber. This is the main way to insulate a door in a private house.

Wooden door insulation

Today people buy mostly metal doors, but in already built houses, wooden doors are often found. How to insulate a door in a private house if it is the cause of heat leakage? Wooden doors are also different. Some have a cavity inside, you can simply fill it with insulation, as described above. But if your door is made of solid wood, it is insulated differently. First, strips of leatherette about 10 cm wide are attached around the perimeter (wrong side out). Further, a packing is attached to the door using a stapler, which is usually used as foam rubber 2 cm thick. To extend the life of this short-lived material, it is recommended to cover it with 2 layers of batting on top. Next, the door is sheathed with a canvas of dermantine, which is fixed with simple furniture nails. During installation, it must be pulled as tight as possible so that there are no bumps, it is worth starting from the middle, gradually moving to the edges.

It will not be difficult for an economic person to insulate the front door with his own hands, especially since now you know the main ways to do this.

Winter is naturally associated with the cold, and now also with the need to lay out large sums of money for heating, the cost of which is systematically growing. To raise the temperature in the room and save on heating a house or apartment, property owners are trying to identify and eliminate sources of heat loss.

In most cases, thermal imaging of buildings shows that about a third of the heat from the room penetrates the outside through the so-called "warm contour", namely windows and entrance doors.

Do not think that installing double-glazed windows and replacing the door block automatically solves the problem of heat loss. And if the replacement of windows leads to a reduction in losses, because they are closed in winter, in the case of the door, the heat still leaves the room, so you need to learn how to insulate the front door in a private house with your own hands, and put the knowledge into practice.

Thermal insulation of entrance doors makes it possible:

reduce heat loss by getting rid of blowing and drafts;
reduce the level of noise penetrating into the apartment / house;
enhance the aesthetic component - door decor.

It is much easier to insulate the door in the apartment, because, as a rule, it goes to the entrance, where the temperature is warmer than the temperature outside. Insulating a door in a rural house is a more difficult task, i.e. it separates the heated room from the frosty air of the street and the wind. However, general rules and the direction of insulation for them will be the same. The difference will be in the choice of thermal insulation material and its thickness.

How to insulate the front door?

In a private house and apartment for insulation, different thermal insulation materials, since the construction market is replete with them. Among the most popular:

cardboard(paper honeycomb filler). Domestic manufacturers fill interior doors with corrugated cardboard to increase their soundproofing properties. No one is surprised by the insulation of a Chinese door with cardboard, because. this is the cheapest insulation;

furniture foam(thickness from 3 to 100 mm, price - 45-900 rubles / sq.m.). This is a material for door insulation, which was one of the first to be used for thermal insulation. Foam rubber is distinguished by low price, flexibility, the ability to keep its shape for a long time and restore it under short-term load, good soundproofing characteristics, ease of use;

Styrofoam(2560-3200 rubles/m3). It is he who is considered the most effective insulation for entrance doors. And door insulation with foam plastic is the most popular solution. Polyfoam is distinguished by low cost, excellent sound and heat insulation characteristics, ease of installation. However, it should be remembered that the foam supports combustion.

polystyrene foam(3500-5000 rubles / m3) has similar properties, but, due to the higher density, it makes it possible to insulate the door more reliably. Expanded polystyrene is also distinguished by a higher price. In terms of structure, both materials are classified as rigid, and are used primarily for insulating a metal door;

polyurethane foam. The product is a novelty in the field of door insulation. In terms of its properties, polyurethane foam is comparable to polystyrene, but its use makes it possible to fill the entire space inside the door. The material is environmentally friendly, does not support combustion, but has a higher cost;

cotton wool. Door insulation with mineral wool is a modern analogue of foam rubber insulation. Due to the flexibility of this material, it can be used for insulation of both metal and wooden door. In this case, one should distinguish between mineral wool (Isover, price 70-75 rubles / sq.m.) and basalt wool (Rockwool, price 200-220 rubles / sq.m.). The second option is more rigid and environmentally friendly. In any case, when insulating the front door with wool, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier film. This is due to the fact that the hygroscopicity of cotton wool does not allow it to be used without additional protection. For the same reason, it is not recommended to insulate doors in a private house with cotton wool;

dermantin. This is decorative material, its purpose is to close the insulation and give the door an aesthetic appearance. Therefore, door insulation with dermantin is carried out only together with heat-insulating material.

Ready set for door insulation

For those who do not want to spend time selecting and calculating the amount of materials, manufacturers offer to purchase a door insulation kit - turnkey solution for entrance doors of different sizes.

Entrance door kit includes:

dermantin. It looks like leather. Now such upholstery has lost its popularity, but remains one of the simple and cheap ways to insulate and decorate a door in a cottage;

foam rubber;

sealing rubber. To exclude blowing around the perimeter of the door frame;

nails with decorative caps.

The cost of the "Standard" set with foam rubber 5 mm thick is 490-520 rubles, the "Lux" set with foam rubber 10 mm is 1180-1230 rubles. There are also kits with padding polyester, they are slightly cheaper.

Thanks to this set, you can easily perform minor repairs and insulation of external doors.

As a rule, the price of the kit is higher than the cost of its individual components, so it is better to purchase the materials yourself.

How to insulate the front door in a private house and apartment

We will analyze the technology of insulation street door on their own in the context of directions. There are two sources of heat loss:

the door itself, i.e. due to the high thermal conductivity of the door leaf, heat loss occurs. Metal doors let in more heat, less wood doors;

door circuit. A significant part of the heat is "blown" out of the room by drafts, which appear due to the loose fit of the door to the door frame.

Consider how you can insulate the front doors with your own hands in order to reduce heat loss in both directions.

Direction 1 - Insulation of the door leaf

It should be understood that the methods of door insulation will be determined by the material from which the door leaf is made:

occurs by filling the cavity inside the door frame. To do this, you can use foam and cotton wool. Before starting work, the door must be opened, the cardboard filler removed (installed in almost all Chinese doors) and the void filled with a more suitable heat-insulating material.

When filled with foam, it is cut into pieces that are convenient for installation and glued to the inner surface of the door using liquid nails and a mounting gun. Free space blown with mounting foam. In the case of cotton wool, it is first recommended to make a crate, in the cells of which cotton wool is placed. It is impossible to lay cotton wool without crates, because. it has a tendency to slip over time. Then the door is closed with any sheet material, for example, fiberboard, and decorated. Often, the insulation is covered with plastic panels or MDF panels.

Note. The thickness of the insulation for the front door must be equal to the thickness of the door leaf, otherwise the locks will have to be changed.

performed with flexible insulation. Since the insulation cannot be placed inside the door frame, you need to decide on which side to insulate the door, from the outside or from the inside. Here, the direction of opening of the door and the location of the hinges are taken into account. The main requirement is that the seal does not interfere with their functioning.

For insulation, heat-insulating material is laid on the door leaf, covered with a film (in the case of cotton wool), and the doors are upholstered with dermantine, which is fixed with decorative carnations.

Note. The use of reflective material, such as penofol, on the inside of the door will “return” heat into the room. After all, the reflectivity of penofol is 97%.

Direction 2 - Insulation of the front door opening

Only the insulation of the canvas will not reduce heat loss so much that we can talk about increasing energy efficiency warm circuit Houses.

The second direction, more productive and easy to implement, from which thermal insulation work usually begins, is the insulation of the door frame. In this direction, there are two ways of warming:

1. Insulation of the door frame of the front door

For these purposes, a sealant is used - polymer or foam rubber (less often) on an adhesive basis. It is better to give preference to polymer, because. its service life is longer, and the efficiency is higher. The foam adhesive tape will not last and the season will, at best, wear out within a year. The insulation process itself is simple and involves sticking a seal around the perimeter of the door leaf. The main thing is to pre-wipe and degrease the surface so that the sealant sticks better.

An important aspect on which the effectiveness of insulation depends is correct selection seal thickness. A thin seal will not perform its function in in full, and a thick one will create an additional load on the door hinges in the process of closing the doors, and will lead to their accelerated wear.

Plasticine will help solve this problem. It must be wrapped in cellophane and placed between the door frame and the canvas. Then close and open the door. The thickness of the resulting plasticine roller will correspond to optimal thickness sealant.

2. Insulation of the slopes of the front door

Errors in the installation of the door frame, the use of low-quality foam that “sagged” during the operation of the door, saving on foam and blowing it out intermittently - all this ultimately leads to the fact that the cold comes from a seemingly insulated door.

What to do if blowing from the front door?

To eliminate drafts, it is necessary to dismantle the slopes, fill the vacant space with foam, lay insulation (preferably soft) and restore the slope again. If it is difficult to do this kind of work, it is better to order a master, his services will not cost too much, and the appearance of the door will be presentable.

How to determine where the wind is blowing from?

You can check if the foam does not allow air to pass through, if you bring the lighter to assembly seam. If the flame fluctuates, measures must be taken to replace the foam.

Installing a double door as a way to insulate

A separate way to insulate a house can be the installation of a double door. The space between adjacent doors will become an air gap, which will contribute to the fact that cold air from the street will not penetrate directly into the living space. In conjunction with the insulation of openings and slopes, this approach makes it possible to get really high-quality insulated entrance doors.

Note. The ideal option in this case would be to install two doors on one door frame.

If the insulation does not help much, it's time to change the old doors. Good feedback o, which prevent the penetration of cold, leveling temperature differences between the room and the street.

Budget insulation of the front door - video instruction

Balcony door insulation

If the house or apartment has a balcony, then this is another door that faces the street (especially if the loggia or balcony is not glazed) and, accordingly, needs thermal insulation.

How to insulate a balcony door for the winter

Warming balcony door has its own specifics, which is associated with the presence of a window in it. If the door is made of wood, then the insulation is made by sticking a seal around the perimeter of the leaf, insulating the slopes and sealing the glass seat. The insulation technology will be similar (we recommend that you familiarize yourself) with the insulation of wooden windows.

If you need insulation plastic door, in this case it is recommended to first check the tightness of the door and correct the fit by adjusting the fittings. The technology of insulation is also similar to the thermal insulation of plastic windows. In the event that there are no violations in the operation of the fittings, the masters recommend using Swedish insulation technology. This is the most reliable way reduce heat loss through the balcony block.

Conclusion

As you can see, there are several directions for insulating a door in a private house. But only their complex use will allow you to get a really tangible effect.

There are many factors that determine the heat performance for a private home. High-quality and reliable heaters are just one of them that matters. Windows, roofs and front doors are most involved in the process of keeping warm. However, if quality plastic windows, and the room is still cold, so the main problem lies in the door leaf. In this article, you will learn how to insulate a wooden door in a private house, and what materials are best to use for this.

When do you need to insulate wooden doors?

Entrance door structures are a kind of shield that helps protect against a large number of external influences. Therefore, the products themselves must have maximum strength, reliability. Special characteristics are also important, guaranteeing protection from frost and heat, extraneous odors and noise.

According to advice from experts, insulation is relevant under the following circumstances:

The design was originally purchased without insulation, just as free-standing doors.
The old insulation of the selected type was mounted poorly or it was worn out during operation.
The wooden door has lost its attractive appearance, even if it was installed correctly.

Old heaters are advised to be replaced when more modern materials with improved characteristics. Implementation of work with my own hands allows you to save the most money.

What is the best insulation for the front door?

There are many materials that allow you to solve the problem of insulation, here are just a few of the most common:

Inside this material there are many micropores with air, due to which the thermal insulation characteristics of the door leaf retain high level. The upholstery base does not play a role in this.

Step-by-step instructions for warming

The sources of heat loss can be both the doors themselves and the presence of gaps between the door leaf and the frame. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of improving the properties in two directions at once, then the insulation is most effective. Let's analyze a specific technology that can be used to insulate door structures.

Tools and materials

Before proceeding with the process of warming the front door, you need to carefully prepare. First of all, you need to acquire the tools and materials that may be required to complete the task.

It is impossible to insulate doors without the following devices:

nail puller or montage;
flat rail, meter with a metal base;
screwdriver;
a hammer;
hacksaw;
stationery knife;
tape measure with a pencil;
construction stapler.

This set of devices can be expanded if necessary. But such tools are enough for most cases. An electric jigsaw can become great alternative for a hacksaw - the work will be done with the same quality, but it will take much less time. A simple drill is suitable when a screwdriver could not be found in the house, the main requirement is the presence of a reverse, then any nail or screw will be removed without any problems.

You also need to decide on the lining material. Wooden doors after insulation are usually sheathed with dermantine.

Preparatory work

Each step must be carefully followed to achieve the desired result. Only this approach will allow you to properly distribute forces and in the future to do without additional repairs.

Cutting and laying insulation

On the this stage thermal insulation material should be prepared:

1. Initially, you should measure the voids in the door leaf that need to be filled, and make marks on the insulation.

2. The selected heat insulator is cut along the marked lines with a clerical knife both in length and in width.

3. If the door has the form of a frame with voids, then the latter are completely filled. To do this, between the bars it is necessary to insert all the pieces of insulation as tightly as possible.

4. If the supply of material is too large, it will interfere with the final sheathing. Excess parts are simply cut off with your own hands if necessary.

5. The insulation is fastened with brackets. Thanks to the construction stapler, the work is accelerated and facilitated.

New door trim

New upholstery of wooden doors is the next step. Excellent fit materials soft type like dermantin, a skin substitute. The upholstery fabric must be cut off, creating some margin of at least 10 centimeters. Then the material will easily bend and have some thickening around the entire perimeter.

It is best to use special nails when fixing dermantine. They are supplied with decorative hats that give the design a more pleasant appearance.

On the video: do-it-yourself upholstery of a wooden door.

Install hinges with fittings

The removed fittings are installed in place as soon as the door leaf acquires a suitable appearance with the correct thickness. The main thing is that the loops fit correctly in their nests. A seat for the lock is carefully cut out. There must be no damage around, otherwise you will not be able to complete the work.

Mounting the seal

Even when the front wooden door is closed, a small gap still remains. Therefore, the next step is to eliminate the existing defects. The main thing is to choose a sealant with the appropriate characteristics. Manufacturers today offer rubber, silicone and foam options.

Foam rubber quickly and easily solves the issue associated with drafts. Perfect option even for cottages where there is no operation with serious intensity. Silicone and rubber protect against drafts for a longer time. Products have such a shape, due to which they adjoin to the base as tightly as possible.

After the seal option has been selected, it remains only to complete the installation. For this, an adhesive strip or a harpoon in a groove is usually used. Self-adhesive products provide the maximum speed of the process, but the harpoon option wins in terms of durability.

In this case, the fastening is carried out in the very corner of the quarter. Therefore, the canvas easily falls into place without difficulty.

Of course the best way- do most of the work yourself. Then there will be no need to invite additional specialists. Usage quality materials for this it is not so expensive, but the proper level of protection from the cold will be provided.

Budget ways to insulate doors (2 videos)

Insulation and upholstery options (40 photos)

Doors are the main way to get into your house, and not only for guests, intruders, but also for cold and noise. According to statistics, a third of all the heat that is lost in your house goes through this path, and it is the door that most often receives blows, since a gap forms over time or during installation. This is mostly noticeable in cold period year, when heating is connected, when room temperature does not rise to the desired level. By insulating wooden doors in a private house, you will raise the air temperature by 3-4 ° C, normalize air humidity and reduce the cost of heating rooms.

Insulated wooden doors for a private house will help you keep warm. You can do this thanks to a small sing of insulation. Most often, your doors, purchased, are already initially insulated. But keep in mind that they have such a thin layer of insulation that there will be no sense in this. This is due not only to savings, but also to the desire of sellers to reduce the weight of the structure.

Materials for insulation

If the door leaf is initially in poor contact with the door frame, there are gaps, cold air passes, then it is recommended to use a sealant. Take sealing rollers to insulate products. Best of all they are in combination with a heater. The entire door leaf is upholstered with insulating material, which helps to retain heat and insulate it as much as possible.

If you are interested in what insulation materials are used to insulate wooden doors, we will mark them a large number of. Let's analyze the most interesting ones.

For upholstery of a wooden front door, these types are usually used:

Izolon- the minimum thickness of the material will give a good result for the thermal performance of the insulation. Made from synthetics.
Foam rubber- to protect wooden doors from moisture is not the best solution, because it has the ability to absorb moisture and crumble over time. Its cost is several times cheaper than the previous one, it serves for a short time, it begins to collapse soon, but for beginners it is just a godsend.
Mineral wool practical, long-known material to us, which has proven itself well. the most economical option. But, as we know, "the miser pays twice" because it will absorb all the moisture and eventually your seal will become a breeding ground for bacteria, destroying not only itself, but also the door leaf. After a while, it begins to settle, form bulges.
Styrofoam- easy to install, resistant to external influences and show good performance in operation. However, the negative is the poor soundproofing. The foam is easy to use and can be easily attached to a surface. It has low fire resistance, but shows great resistance to moisture.

Pay special attention to the thickness of the seal. Too thick a layer of insulation - will open the problem with closing the door, make it heavy, but too thin - do not give you the effect for which you did it all.

Do not forget that all the heaters mentioned above will look extremely unattractive. Therefore, a decorative coating is also used. Often this is artificial or Genuine Leather, leatherette or plywood.

We have already figured out that there are three ways of warming, both large-scale and partial. This is insulation with rollers, insulation and sealant. Now let's analyze each of them.

How to install a seal in a door frame?

This is the simplest and easy way insulation. He implies that your wooden doors are not bad anyway, only the gap between the box and the canvases is confusing. Private house only this barrier separates the streets from the frost, so cracks are highly undesirable. In this case, you can insulate with a rubber profile. For ease of installation, it has long been made with a sticky base.

It is enough just to glue it around the entire perimeter, for which you do not need special knowledge or skills. If there is no rubber profile, it is worth using leatherette tape, folded in several layers.

Be sure to measure the parameters, the width of the slots, after which a suitable rubberized tape is selected both in length and in quantity. It is cut into the desired pieces, the protective layer is removed and pressed tightly against the door or box.

Treat this insulation with a high degree of responsibility. Since this is the most terrible hole through which the arctic ice of the street penetrates into your house in winter.

How to upholster wooden doors with insulation?

We will need: nails, leatherette for a decorative layer, insulation, for example, mineral wool. We recommend insulating on both sides if possible, which will give a greater effect.

You must first remove the door and place it on a support, which can be kitchen chairs, or a table. Now you need to remove the handles, hinges, peephole, locks, and other additional accessories.

Because our doors are wooden, it is recommended to treat it with antiseptics and waterproof it, which is especially important for a private house. Usually, layers of insulation are inserted into a frame of bars. We put insulating material there. We will fix it with glue or a construction stapler, nails.

At the stage finishing the insulation is covered with a layer of decorative fabric (leatherette) and it is also fixed. Then you can insert the locks, handles back and install the doors back into the box. After checking that everything opens and closes normally.

How to insulate with sealing rollers?

The last unresolved issue for today. If it is not possible to remove the doors from the hinges, then you should use this way. This is still true of those private houses, which not only suffer from the cold in winter, but also from the terrible heat in summer.

Doors should be tightly closed. The roller is not nailed to the threshold, but this is done on the lower ends of the canvas. You can do this from above, just carefully consider the weight of the structure. Please note that with a significant increase in load, it may be necessary to use more powerful loops.

You can see more in the video about insulation: