Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the attic. Decorating the attic with a clapboard with your own hands - detailed instructions Decorating the attic with plywood

The attic is gaining more and more popularity - an additional room that is located near the roof. After all, it is a pity to use such a useful space for storing unnecessary things. But, if you properly finish the attic room, then it will fit perfectly for receiving guests, a relaxation room or a gym.

What is included in this finish? How can I sheathe an attic room and how to do it? Let's find out.

Attic projects

To begin with, I would like to note that your attic can be made in different variations. It's about interior space. Most developers, when planning an attic project, tend to maximize free space. Sometimes the owners do not even hide the truss system, leaving them as additional element decor.

Basically, the layout of the attic depends on the type of roof of the house. What matters is whether the roof is low or high. The space below it can be wide or limited. Yet often there are two types of arrangement inside the attic.

The first method is used when the roof has a small slope, but a large height. The finished room will turn out to be of a non-standard shape: not rectangular or square, but trapezoidal. The space inside can be made in the form of one room, or you can divide it into two. If you have a narrow and long room, then it is easy to equip two rooms there.

The second way is more traditional. The room is rectangular or square. Due to the height and width of the roof, you can make additional partitions to create perfect shape as seen in the diagram above. Cut off space will fit under warehouse space. Such an extra place will never interfere and will find its use.

Note! The places where you will install partitions are selected depending on the desired ceiling height. Partitions can be made of brick, wood or drywall.

Attic finishing technology

It is not difficult to arrange a high-quality attic. The main thing is to be patient, take the time and put in a little effort. The way you finish the attic depends entirely on the purpose of the room. For example, do you want the room to be used only during the summer or all year round? Much depends on this choice. After all, in order for the room to be used in winter, it will need to be insulated. Let's look at a more complex option, in which it will be possible to use the attic in winter.

To begin with, it is important to make a quality cake, using hydro and vapor barriers. In advance, outside the rafters, you need to fill a layer of waterproofing, which will prevent the penetration of water from the roof. Now, in the space between the rafters you will have to lay thermal insulation material. It must retain heat well, have soundproofing qualities, be environmentally friendly and keep its shape. Ideally, basalt or mineral wool. Alternatively, use foam.

Note! The frame for lining and insulation can be made from wood bars or metal profiles. When working with wood, the material must be treated with an antiseptic and anti-rotting and burning agents. And metal profiles need to be coated against rust.

From above, the insulation is sheathed with a vapor barrier film. Thanks to such layers of protection, the insulation inside will not lose its properties and will last much longer. After that, everything is ready. It remains only to finish (sheathe) the attic from the inside.

Attic sheathing materials

Here you can roam. There are plenty of materials for sheathing. What can you choose from?

  1. Drywall.
  2. Wood.
  3. OSB panels.
  4. Plywood.
  5. Clapboard.

All materials have their advantages and disadvantages. In this article we will talk about lining the lining. This is an excellent material that will make the attic attractive and practical. And what the attic trim with clapboard looks like can be seen in the photo.

What are the advantages of lining? The main feature is ecological cleanliness. The lining is natural material which creates a healthy microclimate inside. In addition, the lining will give the room a rustic atmosphere. Everything will look aesthetically pleasing and attractive. You can use lining for wooden houses, and for brick and concrete.

As for the work itself, the decoration of the attic with clapboard is a bit complicated. When compared with the same drywall, it will take a little more effort and time.

Note! If you are finishing the attic with a clapboard, then rationally approach the choice of the width of the material. If you use products whose width is more than 10 cm, then the surface may crack.

So, how can you trim the attic from the inside with clapboard? What is the technology? Let's find out.

Lining technology

Before starting work, wooden lamellas will have to be impregnated with a protective compound and varnished. Now more about the stage of all work:


From theory to practice

First of all, choose the direction of lining. It can be a vertical plane or a horizontal one. It is on this choice that depends on which frame is made for fastening the material. If the direction is vertical, then the frame is made horizontal, and vice versa. Keep in mind that lining laid horizontally will expand the room, and vertical cladding will make it higher.

As for fixing the lining for the attic, then the choice is yours. There are several types of fixation:


It is allowed to mount the lining in any of these ways. It is clear that the first method is not entirely aesthetic, as the nail heads will be visible. This is an option for storage and utility rooms.

Work begins from the bottom up with a vertical mount, and from right to left with a horizontal mount. The first board must be adjusted to the size of the attic and cut. Use cleats to hide attachment points. It is attached through the grooves to the crate. Connect the second board to the first with a spike. It must be inserted into the groove.

All other elements are fixed in the same way: through the groove to the crate. The fastening step is the same as the crate step. The final board is not always the right size. Therefore, it must be cut and adjusted. The extreme joint can later be hidden with a plinth. That's all. Work completed. For clarity, we suggest that you additionally watch the video on how to sheathe the attic with clapboard from the inside.

Additional square meters are never superfluous either in the country or in the center of the metropolis. And getting a comfortable stylish room for housing from a cold attic is quite real. It will be doubly pleasant if the attic is finished with your own hands. The attic will turn into a romantic corner with an unusual panorama of the starry sky or a strict Personal Area, or..

It is not worth continuing, as the finish attic floor, how Magic wand will make all your fantasies come true. But for now, you only have a non-residential attic, and the answer to the question of how to finish the attic with your own hands awaits ahead.

The non-standard geometry of the attic provides excellent opportunities for design solutions for finishing and even more diverse than for other rooms. That is why attic decoration is not as difficult to implement as it is to choose a project and materials.

Finishing the attic with wood: simple, cozy and environmentally friendly

Preparing the attic for decoration

Before sheathing the attic from the inside, you will need to perform a number of preparatory work.

Finishing the attic with a clapboard: a photo of a designer finish - zoning the space with a blockhouse and a regular clapboard

A well-made attic roof does not guarantee that it will be warm and dry under it. This means that it is necessary to insulate all its surfaces. What will be the technology of thermal insulation works directly depends on whether external insulation was provided during construction. In addition, the insulation must be reliably protected from moisture, so do not forget about vapor and waterproofing.

Interior decoration of the attic: photo of the bathroom on the attic floor

The attic as a room is quite spacious, and the presence of windows makes it possible to ventilate it regularly. This is a big plus when choosing an interior finish, since the humidity level there will always be within the normal range.

When preparing the floor for finishing, it is especially important to protect it from emergencies associated with water pipes. Otherwise, the ceiling of the room from the lower floor will inevitably suffer.

The structure of the internal partition

The attic, as a rule, is the privilege of a broken roof, however, and an attic space under two steep slopes can be turned into an attic, limiting its space along the perimeter with a small partition wall. In the new room, it will already be possible to walk without bending your head.

On a note: the partition in this case will be sheathed with the selected finishing material on one side.

Decoration of attic rooms: photo of a nursery

How to sheathe the attic inside

The options for finishing the attic floor are quite diverse, but if you ask: “What is the best way to sheathe the attic?”, Many will answer that this is a tree. And in fact, wood paneling of the attic is very popular.

Natural materials in the cladding create a special atmosphere in the room. Ecostyle in the urban attic is a great opportunity to transfer the beauty of nature there.

Attic finishing options: photo of walls sheathed with wooden wallpaper

How to finish the attic inside with plywood

A fairly common option for sheathing the attic with plywood sheets. This is not the most expensive material, and sheathing them is quite simple. Even the most reliable roof is not guaranteed against leaks, so it is better to give preference to sheathing made of moisture-resistant plywood sheets.

An example of attic sheathing with plywood with built-in niches under the roof slopes

Sheathing the room begins with the creation of a frame. To fix the elements, nails or self-tapping screws are used. But in any case, they are hammered or screwed in, stepping back from the edge of the sheet by 15 cm and further at a distance of 30 cm from each other. The work is carried out in the following sequence: first, inclined planes, gables are sheathed, and then the horizontal ceiling is sheathed, if any. Sheets, with the exception of plywood with tongue-and-groove edges, are laid with a small - only 3-5 mm, thermal gap in a checkerboard pattern - they should not be located on the same line.

Important: plywood sheathing the best option for interior decoration high humidity, because in such conditions, due to the deformation of the wood, the butt joints can open up, and as a result, the aesthetics of the general appearance will be completely lost.

Interior lining of the attic in a country house

Finishing the attic floor wooden house often also performed as a blockhouse - this is a decorative lining with imitation of timber. It is usually used for horizontal cladding. The undoubted advantage of this lining option is considered to be excellent ventilation characteristics, which provide grooves on the back of the material.

Sheathing attic clapboard

And yet, lining remains the most popular wood paneling. It is not difficult to obtain such coverage. You can do the finishing, having the simplest skills of construction work, with your own hands. Products purchased for sheathing must first be processed protective equipment: antiseptics, fire retardants, etc. Well-dried after such a procedure, the lamellas are left in the attic for about a day, to adapt to the microclimate of the room.

Sheathing clapboard with vertical fastening

For cladding clapboard, there are mainly three methods of fastening:

  • on ordinary hardware, for example, decorative screws, self-tapping screws or nails. The slats are screwed or nailed to the base from the side of the groove at the place where it joins the spike;
  • on galvanized steel clamps of various shapes and sizes;
  • on special brackets, which are fixed with a construction gun, punching a groove.

Clapboard finishing options

Basically, the horizontal sheathing of the attic with clapboard is carried out directly along the rafters with the simultaneous laying of insulation between them.

For a horizontal arrangement of the finishing lamellas, installation is carried out from top to bottom. With this direction of the sheathing device, excess particles do not get into the grooves, which can cause the onset of destructive processes. The easiest way is to sheathe the material with fastening to the kleimers.

Attic fully finished with clapboard

  1. The first plank, cut to size, is fixed along the top with finishing nails.
  2. A kleimer is inserted into the recess and attached to the rafters.
  3. The next panel is inserted into the installed one, with a spike in the groove, covering the clamp.
  4. Install the rest of the panels in the same way.
  5. The last bar is adjusted in width.
  6. The resulting gap when finishing the floor is covered with a plinth.

Scheme of the device for finishing the attic with clapboard

For the vertical arrangement of the lining panels, a frame is assembled from horizontally arranged rails. The installation of cladding elements is carried out from corner to corner. The best option is the direction from the window to the opposite wall, since the shadows in the gaps in this case will be less noticeable. Finally, the skin can be decorated with slats.

Option for lining the attic with clapboard

  • Lining of lighter tones visually expands the space, so it is advisable to use dark-colored wood as a decorative element.
  • It is better to finish inclined surfaces with flat lining lamellas so as not to visually reduce the space.
  • Vertical laying visually raises the ceiling, and horizontal - visually expand the room. Installation options can be combined.

Light lining in the attic department in contrast with the dark rafters

How to sheathe an attic with drywall

Drywall as a finishing option is perhaps the most practical. What are its benefits?

  • simple installation;
  • the ability to equip various niches and install partitions;
  • high-quality insulation;
  • fairly low price, etc.

Such a sheathing can, if necessary, become a “rough” surface for future cladding.

Finishing the attic with drywall: photo of the bedroom

Drywall is mounted on a crate made of wood or a metal profile. crate from wooden slats with a certain step attached to the rafters. The choice of their section depends on the parameters of the rafters and the drywall itself. For fastening to the gable wall, dowels are used, and the panels themselves are attached to the crate with screws in increments of about 25 cm. The wooden crate is pre-treated with an antiseptic.

Lathing from a metal profile for drywall in the attic

More versatile, of course, is the second option - a drywall sheathing device on CD and UD metal profiles. Depending on the configuration of the room, gypsum boards can be installed vertically or horizontally, which, in turn, requires a certain installation of the frame. However, the only requirement remains the following:

  • at a longitudinal intersection, at least 4 profiles should fall on the plane of each drywall sheet (30 cm step),
  • with a transverse - at least 6 (step 50 cm).

Attic ready for plasterboarding

GKL plates are fixed with a profile using a screwdriver, having previously cut them to the same size. To make the edges even, you need to cut with a jigsaw or planer. The sheets are firmly fixed using screws in increments of 20–25 cm. When finishing a window or door, fastening is also performed along the perimeter of the opening. For single-layer sheathing, the screw-in depth is 1 cm, and for double - 3.5 cm.

Fastening sheets of drywall when finishing the attic

Important: between the edges of the sheets of sheathing material, taking into account the swings of the roof and the wind load, it is desirable to leave gaps of up to 5 mm. In the future, they are puttied and sealed with reinforcing tape.

This is how the finishing of the attic with drywall is schematically carried out. Video materials on this topic will help to better understand the nuances of the process.

As for further finishing, it can be completely different, because you can stick wallpaper on drywall sheets, lay ceramic tiles or decorative stone, putty and paint.

Attic ceiling decoration

The best option for installing an attic ceiling is a tension style - in any case, it adds style to the interior of the attic. Another thing, if you want to specifically keep the rustic style in the attic, then it would be best to leave the rafters open. They are usually stained or treated with wood stain.

A harmonious combination of a matte stretch ceiling and bamboo wallpaper in the attic sheathing

On a note: The use of open rafters has recently become a favorite technique for designers. With skillful use with attic trim, it gives the most unexpected interesting results.

Thanks to non-standard geometry, there are much more design possibilities in the attic room than in any other room. Roof slopes can serve as the ceiling of the attic floor, and at the same time be its walls.
An exclusive interior can be created thanks to the windows on the ceiling, or well-placed load-bearing beams. Great importance it also has a functional purpose of the attic - the interior decoration must correspond to it.

As a rule, the attic is located in a house with a pitched roof. It can be one steep and the other a gentle slope, or both gentle.
If two slopes are steep, and reach overhangs to the ceiling, then this is just an attic:

  • So that it can be turned into an attic, the attic must be raised in height, due to a small wall around the perimeter of the house. A person should be able to walk around the attic without bending his head.

  • There was a time when the attic was not heated, and was intended for the residence of servants, poor students and poor intellectuals. Today, the view of this room has changed - it has become a full-fledged living space, subject to its high-quality insulation.
  • Many materials with which the interior decoration of the attic is made allow, during their installation, to produce a thermal insulation device. Particular attention is paid to the roof slopes, because it is they who take on atmospheric precipitation, wind loads and the effects of low or high temperatures, depending on the season.
  • In the process of roofing work, thermal insulation of the roof is necessarily performed. In any case, if you plan to make a residential attic.
    Regardless of this, the same list of work on the insulation of roof slopes must be performed inside. A double layer of thermal insulation guarantees the room protection from freezing and drafts.

As for the walls and gables (see Finishing the gable according to all the rules), then if they were insulated in the process exterior finish at home, there is no need to do this work inside. We will not go into the details of the thermal insulation device, there are similar articles on our website.
Watch the video for more. Let's just say that many of the materials used in interior decoration attic, in themselves have thermal insulation properties - for example: drywall, fiberboard, cement-bonded and magnesite boards.

Attic floor device

When arranging a kitchen or bathroom under the roof of the house, the interior decoration of the attic floor must be appropriate. Since the attic room is quite spacious and has windows that allow it to be regularly ventilated, there will not be a high level of humidity in it.
So:

  • The main attention in preparation for finishing should be directed to the floor, so that in case of an emergency with water pipes, the ceiling of the room below is not damaged.

  • Therefore, you need to try to make a sealed structure on the floor, and doing it yourself is not at all difficult. Consider the option of a brick or stone house, with a reinforced concrete floor slab.
    In this case, the performance of waterproofing can be the same as in apartments.

  • First, the surface of the concrete is treated with a penetrating waterproofing mixture, capturing the wall to a height of fifteen centimeters. First of all, the joints of the floor and walls are coated, gluing a special insulating tape on top.

  • When all corners and joints are sealed, the primer is applied to the rest of the floor surface. After the mastic has dried, you can make a self-leveling floor using a dry self-leveling mixture diluted with water.
    The result is a perfectly even and airtight base for laying porcelain stoneware, tile or mosaic tiles.
  • In principle, the floor can be made in the same way in cases where it is planned to make an ordinary living room in the attic, only you can do without tape, and replace the waterproofing mastic with a regular primer.
  • But there are other floor options. It all depends on which decorative coating is preferred, and whether it is necessary to raise the floor mark higher.
    If necessary, then wooden logs are mounted on top of the waterproofing layer, which can also serve as an ordinary overlapped roofing material.
  • If the space between them is left empty, and, for example, a plank floor is made along them, each step on the floor will give off a booming sound. Therefore, the formed cells are filled with any loose insulation: granular penoizol, expanded clay or polystyrene chips.

  • Thus, you can kill two birds with one stone: you will get not only insulation, but also good sound insulation of the floor. So: liquid is poured into the cells with insulation cement mortar- you will get an absolutely sealed base of foam concrete, and its price will be minimal.

In order to lay a tile or laminate on such a base, it will be necessary to drown the reinforcing mesh in an uncured solution, and then perform a leveling screed. If a plank floor is to be installed, then the grid will not be needed.
Work on the device of the subfloor must be carried out after plastering the walls, if any.

Decorative trim attic

If the exterior decoration of the walls was carried out without insulation or was not performed at all, the walls and gables must be insulated from the inside. In this state of affairs, the most convenient option would be the interior decoration of the attic with clapboard, MDF panels, drywall (see Finishing the attic with drywall: installation features) or other material that requires the installation of a crate.
It is very convenient to lay a heater in its internal space.
So:

  • Most often, the owners prefer natural materials, and the lining board is number one on this list. And it is not at all necessary to sheathe absolutely the entire room - you can get by: only with a plank ceiling or only with wall sheathing.

  • As for interior design, here you need to show imagination so that the room does not look dull and monotonous. And there are many decorating options.
    These are doors, skirting boards and cornices in a contrasting color; beautiful carved railings on the stairs leading to the attic.
  • This includes painting the wooden surface in original colors that hide the texture of the wood. Moreover, the painting is not monophonic, but alternating bright hues with darker ones, as in the photo below.
  • It would seem: lining board - the most available material known to all and sundry. How can you do it in the attic exclusive interior?
    It turns out you can! As proof, we give an example of the design decoration of such a room with a board.

  • Let's see what techniques the designer used. First: the room is divided into zones by using boards with different sections - "block house" and "standard".
    The boundaries of the zones are also determined by the roof rafters, which contrast in color with the walls. For coloring the board, a stain of a very pleasant shade was selected.
  • Wall decorations are frames with a canvas stretched over them. Or maybe it's silk wallpaper pasted on a plywood base, or directly on the wall, and framed with a decorative molding.
  • The window sill space is decorated in the same way. The interior is completed by lamps and semi-antique furniture - which is worth one chest standing in the corner.
    And there seems to be nothing supernatural in the decoration, and the picture attracts the eye.
  • In order to "dilute" the tree in the interior of the room, you can use a variety of finishing materials. In our next example, two of them serve this purpose: a decorative stone with which part of the wall is lined, and glass in false ceiling.
    Beautiful twisted pillars and railing balusters serve as a contrasting decoration here.

  • Sheathing the walls of the attic, with the same success, can be done with MDF panels. As in the case of lining, in order to achieve harmony in such an interior, it is important to avoid monotony.
    In this case, the lower part of the walls is decorated with cork-coated panels, wooden plinths and darker-colored slats are used.

  • In the decoration of the attic space, drywall is also successfully used. With its help, insulation and alignment of walls, the creation of suspended ceiling structures and wall partitions are carried out.
    And in this case, the design of the attic space will not yield to any other. Fortunately, the surface of the drywall can be painted, wallpapered, decorated with tiles or three-dimensional panels.

  • If there is no need to insulate the walls of the attic, they can be leveled with ordinary or decorative plaster. brick and cinder-block walls are treated with a universal primer, then, after it dries, a starting layer of plaster is applied.
    Letting him grab, the surface is primed again.
  • The final layer of plaster can also be structural. The relief in this case is created by adding stone chips or other fillers to the solution.
    To achieve this goal, the craftsmen also use various tools with which a relief is applied to the wall.

  • Plastered walls can simply be painted, wallpapered with flowers, or more expensive types of wall coverings veneered with cork, bamboo, or stone can be used in decoration.

  • In the example above, the walls of the room are finished with one of these coatings. The highlight of the interior is a small wall lined with 3D panels with three-dimensional relief.
    The attic and beams mounted around the perimeter of the ceiling and the slopes of the roof are very decorated, contrasting with the decorative coating.

As you can see, there are many ways to perfectly finish the attic floor, and we really hope that our little instruction helped you with this. Strain your imagination, dare and rejoice beautiful interior yourself and your loved ones!

A modern attic is not a banal box lined with yellowish clapboard, but a stylish and cozy space for living. The owners of private houses are no longer trying to make a semblance of an ordinary room in the attic, but boldly open the slopes and highlight the floor beams. But how to finish the slopes so that from the main drawback of the room they turn into a highlight?

Exterior decoration of the attic

Outside, the attic most often looks like an integral part of the house, so appearance The pediment corresponds to the design of the walls of the facade. Trim the pediment of the attic:

  • facade decorative plaster;
  • siding;
  • decorative brick;
  • clinker tiles.

These options are suitable for cases where the gable is built from the same material as the walls of the house.

Photo gallery: houses with attics in the color of the facade

Wooden false timber has such qualities as environmental friendliness, durability, low cost and ease of installation. The high frost resistance of clinker tiles makes this construction material indispensable in the harsh climatic conditions of Russia Walls finished with decorative plaster have increased sound insulation and resistance to dust and dirt. Before applying decorative plaster to the walls, they must be further cleaned and processed, and it is also worth high-quality plaster quite expensive Brick attic, like the house itself, requires major insulation According to experts, one of the most durable finishing methods in the budget price segment considered siding

Video: finishing the facade and pediment with a “grated fur coat”

How to sheathe the attic outside

Sometimes the pediment is trimmed with contrasting material to visually break the house horizontally and emphasize the height of the lower floors. Among the materials used:

  • corrugated board in a contrasting or harmonious color (a popular option among those who at first did not plan to insulate the attic);
  • false beam or other wood (looks best on wooden houses and when imitating an alpine house).

Contrasting finish involves the use of different materials for the floors of the house, for example, from below - stone, from above - wood

Such solutions are used when refurbishing a house, when the pediment is built simultaneously with the roof.

Video: lining the pediment with clapboard

Interior decoration of the attic

Since the truss system of houses is made of wood, the attic finishing materials have to be attached to this unreliable base. Even well-dried wood absorbs moisture from the air and tends to slightly change its geometry. Therefore, if such walls are simply sheathed with drywall and putty, the putty will inevitably crack over time. With the interior decoration of the attic, it is required to level this design flaw. This is done in two ways: using wood or fabric in the design, or creating an internal “box” of durable materials connected to the rafters with movable clamps.

Large windows and bright fixtures give a total wooden attic modern features

Before proceeding with the interior decoration of the attic, it must be carefully insulated. Otherwise, all your efforts will go to waste - finishing materials will deteriorate due to seasonal temperature fluctuations.

Attic wall decoration can imitate a natural stone, such a solution will look quite stylish

To date, the walls of the attic can be finished with any materials, but some of them will require more investment and sophisticated technology. For the floor in the attic, wood is most often used (from cheap boards to typesetting parquet) or laminate. The ceiling usually visually merges with the wall, so materials similar in texture and color are selected for their design.

Stretch ceilings in the attic should not be used. Although they will give the room a visual height, in the specific climate of the attic floor they tend to emit more harmful substances and can cause damage to the rafters due to a violation of the microclimate above the film.

The use of lining for interior decoration

Wooden lining is exactly the material that, according to its characteristics, ideally matches the properties truss system, so it will not crack or weaken due to seasonal changes in temperature or humidity. In addition, no one doubts the safety and environmental friendliness of this traditional solution. Many even believe that it is the lining that gives country house comfort and rustic charm. If you also do not intend to deviate from proven solutions, then you can mount the lining in the attic yourself.

The type of lining depends on the presence of knots, cracks, rot, etc. on the surface of the wood, the more marriage, the lower the grade

Save the hint picture to your phone so that you don’t overpay for lower-class material when buying.

In addition to the type of lining, it is important not to make a mistake with the material. On the market there are panels from such breeds:

  • larch - an elite material with a high price and great decorative properties, it is not afraid of pests, rot, fungi, moisture;
  • Scandinavian pine - a beautiful wood of a pinkish hue and practically without knots, it is softer than larch and cheaper than it;
  • Siberian cedar - a material with an unusual texture and healing effect (releasing healing substances);
  • oak - durable dense and heavy wood of a peculiar dark shade, costs a lot, but also serves for more than 50 years;
  • linden - soft, light and very light, well suited for lightweight structures, self-assembly, decorating panels with do-it-yourself carvings;
  • domestic pine is a budget option, but the high grades of this wood are quite durable and beautiful.

Wooden lining is a versatile material that is suitable for both interior and exterior finishing work.

The better the room is thermally and waterproofed, the less stable wood you can use.

Video: how to choose the right lining

Installation of lining on the walls of the attic

Please note: before starting work, the lining should lie in the attic for 4–7 days so that its humidity and temperature balance with the characteristics of the room. If the material is not allowed to "get used" to the room, it will quickly deform.

If you plan to impregnate the wood with fire and fungicide additives, this should be done before installation so that you can carefully treat the panels on all sides. Try to use formulations that are as safe as possible for humans. It’s not worth saving at this point, it’s better to take more budget wood and cheap varnish than risk the health of future attic residents.

After preparing the material, choose the best mounting method for you. You can fix the lining:

  • wood screws into the groove of the lining (the wood from the bottom is deformed, but the fastening is simple, inexpensive and reliable);

    Please note: the self-tapping screw must go deep at an angle

  • kleimers and self-tapping screws - special metal adapter brackets (the bar does not suffer, it can be reused, but additional costs for kleimers are needed);

    Kleimers provide the wood with a little freedom, which prevents cracking of the dies.

  • staples of a construction gun into the groove (only suitable for soft light wood, you will need to fill a lot of staples);

    The main advantage of using a pistol is that there is no need to use great physical force, the fastening with staples is always very strong, reliable, durable, but the staples can always be removed, and the material will not be irreversibly damaged.

  • nails with decorative caps (used in men's stylized interiors when you need to emphasize the brutality of the finish).

    Behind the large hats of decorative nails, it is easy to hide the head of an ordinary self-tapping screw.

The first three methods allow you to create a completely invisible mount.

The instruction for finishing the attic with clapboard is simple: you need to fix the planks to the wooden crate on the walls and slopes. If you want to mount the lining in a different direction, the crate is first attached to them (perpendicular to the lining), and then the slats themselves. Work on wall cladding with a block house (imitation of timber) is completely similar, except that it is more difficult to attach them alone due to the large thickness and weight of each panel.

Please note: you can’t do without self-tapping screws when installing the lining

If you do not want to hide the texture of wood, you can add variety to the lining wall due to the width and type of planks. Buy panels of 2-3 options, with decorative milling, embossing and combine them with each other. When buying, be sure to make sure that their tongue-and-groove mounts fit together.

Lining with decorative embossing, diluted with ordinary smooth, looks very harmonious and non-standard

In order for the walls from the lining to look harmonious, the floor will need to be finished with either a grooved board or a laminate similar to the lining in color or pattern (an exact match is not necessary, but something should unite them). The choice depends on financial capabilities and the condition of the overlap. If it is finished with chipboard, GVL or other slab material, you can safely glue laminate or even vinyl tiles. If the overlap was made out with a draft board, it is better to finish it with boards too. But if you wish, you can lay slab material over the subfloor and attach laminate, carpet, tiles (vinyl or ceramic in wet and hot areas) to it.

Painted floorboards look very appropriate in the attic

Video: errors when installing lining

Decoration of the attic floor with plasterboard

Drywall is most often used when the owners want to move away from the traditional lining and timber towards a more urban interior with smooth walls. An important role is also played by the environmental friendliness of drywall. Since it is pressed from gypsum without glue and finished with paper, the material is not capable of harming human health and releasing any hazardous substances. In addition, the technology of installing drywall is familiar to most people who have done repairs with their own hands, which makes it possible to save on the work of craftsmen.

Drywall will create an excellent base for smooth background walls and help visually lift the ramp.

The disadvantage of drywall in the attic is its low elasticity - when the tree "plays", the plasterboard is not able to follow it. Therefore, methods such as gluing the sheet to the base or fastening it with screws to the wall while simultaneously adjusting the position under the roof are not applicable. You need a strong steel crate, which will be attached to the tree with metal suspensions that can compensate for the movement of the rafters.

If it was not possible to choose the correct corrugation size, you can take a cable channel with a rectangular cross section

If mice often start up in the house, use stone wool for insulation, and place the wiring in a strong corrugation. This will help avoid rework and avoid unattractive external wiring.

Instructions for finishing the attic with drywall

Finish the attic with drywall as follows:

  1. Assemble the frame for drywall using guides (PN) and rack-mount (PS) profiles with a wall thickness of 0.7 mm (it is better not to use thinner galvanized steel, it may not withstand the load). In this case, you can fasten the profiles directly to the wooden elements of the crate, which was made when insulating the attic. If the weight of the crate is too large, you will need to install additional racks, fastening them not only with wooden frame, but also with metal guides through suspensions.

    If you want to cut off the space under the ridge, it is worth providing access to it from another room

  2. Lay the wiring in the corrugated hoses and take a few photos to make it easier to find the cable exit points after sheathing. Fix mortgages in places of fastening of chandeliers.

    The mortgage for the chandelier is attached to metal racks using self-tapping screws

  3. Start the sheathing at the top of the slopes, trying to arrange the sheets as much as possible so that the seams run parallel to the flow of light from the window. Then minor flaws when puttying the joints will not be visible. Fastening pitch - 25 cm. Be sure to widen the seams and maintain a compensation gap of 3–5 mm.

    Please note: moisture-resistant drywall is used in the attic

  4. Make holes for the wires in the places where the fixtures are attached and make sure that none of them were damaged during the work. As long as the walls are not covered with drywall, it is possible to stretch the corrugation with an additional or spare wire.

    To avoid incidents with holes for wires, try to coordinate the step of the crate with the location of the fixtures in advance

  5. Sew up the attic walls with drywall and make holes for sockets and switches.

    Socket boxes should be installed in drywall before puttying

  6. Prime the seams, fill them with elastic putty and glue with a special tape. After the putty has completely set, smooth the seams with emery cloth so that they do not protrude above the main surface. Do the same for the attachment points.

    The seams between drywall boards must be completely aligned.

Further work depends on the desired effect. If you plan to sheathe part of the walls with decorative panels, no further preparation is required. Under the wallpaper you will need a layer of rough plaster and its alignment. Preparation for painting is the most difficult: a layer of rough putty, a layer of fiberglass (you can stick it directly on the putty, it will help to avoid cracks), a layer of fine putty, sanding the walls. If you want to apply a thin layer of decorative plaster, you should also play it safe with fiberglass, but you don’t need to putty clean.

In a low small attic, smooth plasterboard walls look the most harmonious.

Drywall is only suitable for walls and slopes; when using it, the attic floor will have to be finished with a different material. The same methods are suitable as in the case of lining. But if you chose drywall because of its environmental friendliness, the most logical solution would be to use gypsum boards.

Video: installation of drywall on the attic ceiling

Chipboard in the design of the attic

Chipboards are now used not only for the manufacture of furniture, but also for dry leveling of walls / floors / ceilings in wooden houses and attics. Most often, non-laminated panels with moisture-resistant impregnation are used. This allows you to further prime and putty the surface for painting or wallpaper. In the final version, the wall looks the same as plasterboard or plastered. But, thanks to the many times greater thickness of the chipboard, you can safely mount hanging shelves, a modular storage system, a TV bracket and other weighty things on it (subject to the use of a special mount).

Chipboard has a number of advantages: strength, durability, resistance to high temperatures and direct sunlight, as well as relatively low cost.

The technology for mounting chipboard sheets is simpler than drywall, as they can be attached directly to rafters and wooden sheathing. solid wood and particle boards interacts well with each other, so metal fasteners are not needed. But an expansion gap of 1-2 mm between the sheets is required if you do not want cracks to appear later. The seams are puttied with an elastic compound and glued with a special tape, so they will be invisible in the future. After that, the surface becomes even, smooth and suitable for finishing. As a decorative layer, you can use thin laminated chipboard or MDF panels with a finished end.

The combination of mirror and laminated strips is easy to mount on a chipboard base

Similarly, they are used for finishing GVL ( gypsum fiber sheets, aquapanels) or glass-magnesite sheets. Installation technology, weight, durability and possible decorative effect are almost indistinguishable from chipboard. The final choice depends only on which material is suitable for the price and which one is more convenient for you to work with.

Moisture-resistant chipboard for the floor with one-sided lamination - a reliable floor in the shortest time without losing height

It is convenient that all surfaces can be finished with plate materials at once - from the slope to the floor.

Finishing the attic with HPL panels

HPL panels appeared on our construction market back in the mid-90s, but so far they are only distributed in administrative institutions. In fact, this is an improved analogue of laminate, only HPL is pressed under more severe conditions, therefore it is not afraid of water and is most resistant to mechanical stress.

HPL panels make it easy to create rounded corners

Manufacturers offer a palette of more than a hundred colors, as well as panels with imitation of different types of wood, stones, metals, leather and skins of rare animals, and many options with photorealistic printing. Such a finish looks very impressive and rich, and, in addition, it is suitable for the manufacture of shower stalls (neither chipboard nor laminate would withstand such humidity) and can be used in children's rooms and institutions. Manufacturers claim that the material is completely environmentally friendly. HPL panels are trimmed with ceilings, walls, floors, they are used to make furniture, so any trim can be used.

The disadvantage of HPL panels today is only one - high cost

Manufacturers additionally decorate HPL sheets with decorative embossing, milling, perforation. From it you can make openwork shutters or partitions in the attic.

Several fastening systems have also been thought out, from the simplest to self-tapping screws (even a not very experienced home master can handle it) to completely hidden. Panels with a thickness of 1 cm (maximum - 20 cm) can be mounted in the attic immediately on top of the vapor barrier and pictures and shelves can be easily hung on the finished walls. Thanks to this material, it is possible to finish the attic from the ridge to the floor within one working day (if you work together in a room up to 100 m 2).

If you want to equip an additional bathroom in the attic, HPL panels will help to effectively design it.

There is only one disadvantage of HPL panels - the price is from 7 USD. e. per m 2. Considering that the thickness of the material is from 2 mm, you will have to pay a tidy sum for covering even one wall with panels 1–2 cm thick. But if you are not on a budget, this material will save you a lot of time and provide an incredible decorative effect. After all, you can safely combine “rosewood”, “white marble”, “python skin” and bright colors, without worrying about the compatibility and difference in the thickness of the materials (and this could not be avoided when using real stone, wood and leather).

By the way, HPL panels can also be bought in the form of flooring. In appearance, it looks like a laminate, but it is not at all afraid of water, which makes it more durable and safer.

Use of combined materials

If you do not want to make all walls the same, you can use the principles of combined finishing. Paying tribute to the fashion for sustainability, most designers are trying to use wood. But it may look different:

  • lining (ultra-wide or very narrow, laid in different directions or in the form of a pattern);

    The combination of wide and narrow dice of different colors will give dynamics to the interior of the attic

  • boards with a live edge (using a contrasting substrate or in two layers);

    If you do not want to give the attic the look of a hunting lodge, use an unedged board only on one of the walls or in fragments behind the sofa and TV

  • panels made of glued solid wood or plywood (smooth large-format plates look best in minimalism and loft);

    Plywood does not have to be left in its natural form, it can be painted or painted

  • vertical slats made of solid wood or glued from layers of veneer, which are mounted at a distance from each other and create a dynamic pattern (they work to raise the ceiling);

    Rails attached to the wall will give the subconscious impression that there is additional space behind them.

  • paneled panels under the classics (in modern interior, eclecticism and fusion style, multi-format panels can occupy the entire wall and even go to the ceiling);

    In order not to overload the interior, it is better to mount the panels of dark and amber colors only from below

  • wooden wallpaper - thin wooden dies assembled on a woven basis (in fact, they differ little from bamboo wallpaper, but are made from types of wood that are more familiar to us);

    Thin dice of wooden wallpaper will add variety to the interior with a completely wood finish

  • ceiling beams or false beams (located under the very ridge).

    The sharper the angle of the slopes, the more complex beam structures you can use.

At the same time, it is not at all necessary to preserve the unique pattern and color of the wood. Wooden surfaces are often impregnated with tinted azures of bright colors (light green, turquoise, red) or dense opaque paint is applied.

Colored varnish helps to give the tree particularly interesting and non-standard shades.

It is also considered that in combined interior should be glossy materials. Since it is very important for the attic to expand the space upwards, the gloss can only be placed on the slopes.

Thanks to the glossy paint on the slopes, the light will fill the attic even through a small window.

Implement the idea with different materials:

  • glass with photo printing, fully transparent, colored or tinted to a translucent effect, decorated with a matte pattern;
  • mirrors made of enlightened (without greenery), ordinary, bronze or graphite glass (near such walls you can safely install furniture and hang pictures on them, this will help to avoid an “overdose” of reflections);
  • acrylic sheets, most often in juicy shades ( plastic panels very light and thin, mounted on ordinary liquid nails);
  • painting with glossy paints of any tones (the method is only suitable for perfectly aligned walls);
  • wallpaper with the effect of metal or satin (if the wall is made of drywall, GVL or chipboard);
  • glossy self-adhesive films (also require an even, stable base, but more reliable than wallpaper and cheaper than acrylic).

Chalkboard wall can be combined with built-in wardrobe fronts

Another important trend in the interior of the attic is the wall for drawing and magnets. It is interesting that designers offer such a solution not only to families with children, but also to young couples, lovers of decorating the interior with their own hands, as well as people who use drawing boards by virtue of their profession. You can make such a highlight of the interior with the help of:

  • applying a magnetic composition and paint for drawing with chalk (the wall will turn out black or dark in color);
  • alternately applying magnetic and marker paint (this way you can make a wall of any tone, but in order for the markers to be clearly visible, a light shade is applied on top);
  • pasting the wall with self-adhesive for drawing with chalk (manufacturers offer only black ones).

In the attic one wants to lie down and relax, and soft walls should contribute to this. When a sleeping place or a seating area with a sofa is planned, a rare designer does not use this technique. Softness can be achieved:

  • upholstering the wall with foam rubber and draping it with a fabric that matches or contrasts with the upholstered furniture / bedspread (this is cheaper and you can do it yourself);

    Velvet trim will turn the protruding roof element into a stylish art object

  • fixing soft panels on the wall (custom-made panels of the required shape and size are made from any fabric, customers are offered a huge variety of screeds - from the usual carriage to fantasy);

    Soft Wall panels are fixed so securely that they can be safely mounted on slopes and even on the ceiling

  • using soft stickers made of foamed polyurethane foam (they can imitate not only fabric, but also stone with brick).

    Soft "stone" or "brick" - an unexpected solution for the attic interior

You can make soft not the entire wall, but only part of it in the recreation area or in traumatic places.

To give the interior of the attic a zest, you can also use panels with a three-dimensional pattern. Gypsum is the most common, but they are heavy and require a stable base. Therefore, it is better to buy panels made of thin plastic or light acoustic tiles. Both options look very attractive and modern.

Acoustic panels - an excellent decor for a youth interior

The main thing is to remember that there should not be too many raisins in the interior. If the room is done in calm tones or shades of the same color, you can use wooden boards, mirrors and 3D panels at the same time. But if you plan a lot of juicy tones, you should not overdo it with textures. Make a neutral base with a practical unobtrusive texture and pick up 1-2 non-standard raisins for it.

In a bright, calm interior, nothing will annoy you for sure.

Attic in the style of "cheap and cheerful"

Beauty and ecology - important factors, but many of them simply do not have enough money. Therefore, it is worth mentioning the cases when, after insulating the attic, you have to save on each self-tapping screw. Consider how you can make the interior cheap and not boring.

Scraps - not in the furnace

The first way is to use wood trimmings that are left after the roof was built. From the bars and dice lying around the corners, you can make spectacular mosaic wooden panels. They may look like:

  • “city of skyscrapers” - dice are sawn from bars of the same or different thickness and stacked tightly to each other (the result looks like a city from a great height);

    If desired, you can use bars of different sections, but the same squares look stylish

  • "complete chaos" - wooden trimmings are aligned in thickness, width or length and assembled into an arbitrary picture;

    Assorted dice with different textures can also look attractive.

  • “anti-parquet” - the trimmings of the bars are split along the length with a hatchet and fastened with the smooth side to the wall, with the texture outward (you will need to remove the sharpest dangerous protrusions, but the result is worth it);

    The fireplace near the firewood can be electric or generally painted

    Another budget option is to make shallow shelves from scraps and put them in them. chopped firewood. If the wall is only sewn up with a membrane, before that it is advisable to tighten it with a cheap fabric or agrofibre to create a beautiful background for the logs.

    Plywood

    As a rule, for decorative finishes use expensive plywood. But experienced designers argue that cheap plywood can serve with dignity and look presentable. Just feel free to rummage through the stack, and you will definitely be able to find 2-3 sheets that do not have any knots or darkening on one side. Among low-grade panels, there are surprisingly beautiful wood patterns with which you can decorate an accent wall in the attic. For better preservation, plywood will need to be protected, but this can be done with an inexpensive water-based varnish. With such a coating, it will seem even more spectacular and more expensive.

    It is not necessary to use plywood in large volumes, it is better to combine it with other materials.

    OSB boards

    Oriented strand boards are so popular and affordable in construction that you may have your entire attic sheathed with them. If so, if you wish, you can simply paint the walls in suitable colors and proceed with the settlement. But when you want to do stylish interior, it is better to combine OSB with other materials. In particular, the seams of the slabs can be decorated with a rope or wooden planks in contrasting tones.

    OSB wall decorated with inscriptions looks very modern

    OSB is also a good base for dense non-woven wallpaper, but if you don’t mind the showy texture, you can create an interesting visual effect with ordinary paper ones.

    If there is no OSB in your attic, it is worth sheathing one of the walls with it. The unusual texture of the material will complement the interior well, even if you cover it with thick paint.

    Plastic lining

    High-quality plastic lining with wide dies and decorative patterns often costs more than wood. But to save money, it is not shameful to use the simplest, white and narrow. It will look good under the ridge, at the highest point of the attic ceiling. If you also left part of the beams open, at a distance no one will guess that your lining is inexpensive.

    The choice of plastic lining is a good reason to play with color.

    Chintz according to grandma's recipe

    In Soviet times, the decoration of walls and ceilings with fabric was very popular. The rich used brocade, and those who like to save with might and main conjured over chintz. This simple fabric with naive patterns is perfect for a nursery, as well as a Provence-style interior. Maybe it's time to dismantle the grandmother's chest and look for fabric cuts there? A single piece can be fixed with a construction stapler directly on top of the windproof membrane, and then decorate the seams with twine, a wooden plank or cord.

    Patchwork can be made not only from fabric, but also from pieces of old unnecessary wallpaper or decorative paper.

    If there was no chintz among the inheritance and store prices did not please, you can profitably dispose of old, but not worn clothes. With minimal sewing skills on a typewriter, it is easy to build a patchwork canvas. Undoubtedly, a wall of denim patches will look very picturesque and extraordinary in the attic.

    It doesn’t matter what budget you have allocated for finishing the attic. The main thing is to use the suggested tips wisely and create own interior which will be convenient for you. Then your attic will undoubtedly please every guest.

A modern person, building a house, wants to get the largest usable area. That is why attics with heaps of old things and dust are a thing of the past, and attic floors come in their place, which provide more living space and are especially loved by children.
Finishing the attic space can be done various materials but they say classic is always in fashion. That is why, do-it-yourself attic clapboard finishing is the topic of this article.

So:

  • In the course of the article, you will learn everything or almost everything about lining, its advantages and disadvantages, various design solutions, combinations with various materials, and much more. Detailed instructions for finishing the clapboard of the ceiling and walls will also be given.

  • Lining is a finishing material, which is a panel, planed from natural wood, and having a groove-groove joining system. This material is widely used for both interior and exterior decoration.
  • Recently, the market has New Product, which is called eurolining. In fact, this is the same lining, but it is produced in strict accordance with European standards.
    This lining has a working surface width of 96mm. The thickness ranges from 12 to 15 mm. Length - from 2 to 6 meters.
  • Among other things, this material does not need further processing, as this is done during production. Eurolining is resistant to the appearance various kinds fungi and mold, as well as it is not afraid of moisture.
  • Using wood indoors is a good idea. Since, in addition to the fact that it has excellent heat and sound insulation properties, do not forget that this is an environmentally friendly material.
    The smell of wood will create an amazing atmosphere of cleanliness and comfort in the room.
  • Finishing the lining of the attic floor is also good because you can do all the work yourself, without resorting to the help of specialists. The assembly will be within the power of even an inexperienced master.
    All you need is a set the right tools and basic skills to work with them.

Like any other material, eurolining is divided into classes or grades of quality.
There are only four such varieties:

  • "Extra" - board of the highest quality from the best wood. It does not allow the presence of knots, cracks, mechanical damage, resin pockets, rot, access to the outer side of the core, and even a change in color. The price of this class ranges from 500 to 1000 rubles per 1 square meter.
  • Class "A" - here the presence of surface roughness of the board is allowed; unlimited number of intergrown dry knots; in some places ingrown bark, but not more than half of the board; several small cracks; up to two resin pockets and slight color changes. For such lining you will have to pay from 220 to 250 rubles.
  • Class "B" - the quality of this board is even lower. The presence of end chips and cracks, up to three mechanical damages, processing defects, longitudinal curvature, damage to the lower part of the groove, the presence of tarred areas and three wormholes up to 5% of the entire board surface is allowed. The average price of this class is 180 rubles per square.
  • Class "C" - lining of the lowest quality, having, respectively, the lowest price (145 rubles per 1 sq.m.). The presence of up to five fallen knots, through cracks, wormholes, resin pockets and blind blue is allowed.

Important! All grades of eurolining are made according to a single technology in compliance with all norms and requirements, on the same equipment. They are equally dried and processed. Marking by class occurs in the process of sorting finished products.

Types of lining

In addition to varieties, eurolining differs in the structure of the profile and the complexity of the section.
We single out the main five types:

  • "Standard" - the front side of the board has straight chamfers. Its thickness is 16 mm, and the width of the surface is 96 mm (see photo 3).
  • "Soft-line" (Soft lines) - differs from the previous one in that its upper and lower surfaces are strictly parallel and have rounded chamfers.
  • "American" - the section of this lining has a wedge-shaped shape. When laying, it imitates the joining of boards with an overlap.
  • "Block house" - a wider board, the front side of which has a cylindrical shape.
  • "Land-House" - the upper and lower surfaces of such lining - are profiled.

  • Separately, you can select the type of board that imitates timber. In the people it is called - "Imitation of a bar."
    The main difference is that this board does not have an intermediate groove, and its thickness reaches 35 mm.

Raw materials

Eurolining can be divided into 2 more classes, differing in the type of wood used for production:

  • The first type is larch lining. The raw material is Siberian larch.
    Due to the increased resinousness and density, it has excellent resistance to decay and immunity to moisture. Also, the advantage is the absence of blue, resistance to insects and fungi, strength, beautiful texture, environmental friendliness and saturation with antioxidants, which will positively affect the health of a person who constantly breathes air in a room with larch.
  • The second type is eurolining from conifers trees. Beneficial features and the benefits of this wood are known to all. But it is worth noting some of them separately.
  • More often in stores we come across a product made from Angarsk pine. The main advantages of this tree are as follows: ease of processing, good density, a minimum of knots, and saturation with phytoncides (substances that disinfect the air).
  • Fir lining does not withstand the weather and is prone to infection by mold and insects. However, this wood is very soft, has a high knotiness (good texture), and the complete absence of tarry areas.
  • Spruce is a dense and durable material, which, however, rots when it comes into contact with the ground. Therefore, spruce lining is used for interior work, additionally treated with special compounds.
  • Cedar - ideal for outdoor work, as it is resistant to temperature extremes. It has a beautiful texture with pronounced growth rings.

Separately, it should be noted the most non-budget option - mahogany lining. This material is obscenely expensive, but if you can't afford it, don't be discouraged.
Absolutely any color of wood, you can achieve using various stains.

Design Ideas

What you want to see after the repair, no one is better able to imagine and reproduce you. The work of professional designers costs a lot, and they can not always guess everything that you need.
Therefore, having studied various manuals, viewing a fair amount of photos and videos, you can always create a corner of comfort in your home yourself.

So:

  • Attics never differ in the correctness of shapes and angles. There are roundings, sharp and obtuse angles, trapezoidal sections, bevels, slopes, and so on.
    And all these seemingly shortcomings will become the main "chip" of the finish.
  • In shaping the appearance of the room, use slopes, beams, rafters, ceilings and even chimneys. All of the above elements can be finished with the same clapboard, or with some other material, such as drywall (see Finishing the attic with drywall: installation features).

  • The lining also looks great in combination with other materials, whether it is facing panels, or OSB panels, or ordinary plaster and whitewash. In the next photo, you can see the attic finishing option, where the walls are made of plasterboard, plastered and whitewashed.
    Only the ceiling is lined with clapboard. The floor covering imitates wood and is selected in one color scheme with ceiling.

  • The chimney in the center of the room is masked with a material imitating a spiral. Windows that have unusual place location.
    Thanks to them, the room is very bright and it becomes possible to use space along the walls for furniture.

  • The combination of several types of eurolining also looks very nice. In the image above, a combination of two types is shown: "standard" - the ceiling, and "block house" - the walls.
  • To obtain an original effect, entire walls, or their minor parts, can be sheathed at an angle of 45 degrees. Also, don't be afraid to experiment with colors. The right contrast will emphasize the brightness and beauty of your attic.

Eurolining installation

As we have already said, finishing the attic floor with clapboard is not too tricky. The main thing is to know the basics and some subtleties that will make your work easier.
So:

  • Starting to finish, in addition to the lining itself, you need to purchase material for the frame, insulation, waterproofing and other consumables required during installation.
  • The attic floor is in direct contact with the roof, the walls of which do not have the necessary level of thermal insulation. Also in this part of the house there is a rather high level of humidity due to the condensate formed from the temperature difference.
    In addition, no roof guarantees 100% absence of leaks.
  • Before starting work, you need to take into account all these nuances and take appropriate measures.

Waterproofing

The first step is to install a layer of waterproofing film:

  • A good film should not allow water to pass through, while not preventing moisture from evaporating from the inside. The most popular film is Hydrobarrier.

  • With this film, we cover the walls with a continuous layer. It is fastened with a construction stapler, or ordinary nails with a wide hat.
    Additionally, you can strengthen the connection with a counter rail. Joints and seams can be additionally treated with mastic.
  • The film has front side with brighter markings.