Insulation of the walls of the foam block as best. Do I need insulation outside the house from foam blocks. Insulation of walls from aerated concrete blocks

24.05.2020

In this article, we will analyze in detail how and how to insulate a house made of aerated concrete. This procedure carries many nuances associated with the peculiarity of gas silicate blocks.

Insulation of buildings from foam blocks must be carried out in accordance with all standards and norms. Only in this case it is possible to achieve proper efficiency. It is highly not recommended to save on this aspect, because it allows you to reduce energy costs. Therefore, high-quality thermal insulation of houses made of gas silicate blocks pays off over time.

Why is it better to insulate the outside

Finishing from the inside seems to be a more affordable option. However, insulation from the outside seems to be a more reasonable method, since it has the following advantages:

There are no so-called "cold bridges". As a result of the temperature difference, walls made of gas silicate blocks practically do not participate in protection from the cold if the insulator is located indoors.
The useful area of the house is not reduced. After internal insulation the size of the premises will be reduced by 5-7%.
Increased efficiency. Finishing the house outside will increase the usefulness of the heat-insulating layer by 20-30%.
Less problems with condensation.
The created frame for laying the insulation will serve as a springboard for further finishing.
A significant extension of the operational period of gas silicate blocks, as they will be protected from absolutely all external irritants.

The only case when it is not possible to lay a heat-insulating layer from the outside is if the facade of the building is already finished. In all other situations, this method should be used.

Choosing the right insulator

The construction markets abound thermal insulation materials but which one to choose? The most important condition is that vapor-permeable models cannot be used. The fact is that gas silicate blocks have an almost ideal indicator of this characteristic.

The use of vapor-permeable materials will lead to the fact that the air exchange between the room and the street will be disturbed. As a result, the foam blocks will quickly become covered with condensate, and in the future with fungus and mold.

For insulation of houses from gas silicate blocks, polyurethane foam and mineral wool are best suited. The second option is much cheaper, so it can be recommended. It is best to purchase the basalt variety, as it has the following advantages:

Does not burn (unlike all its counterparts).
It has extremely low thermal conductivity. In this aspect, it is second only to penoplex.
Creates additional sound insulation.
Easy to work.
Resists moisture well.

Of course, if funds allow, then it is reasonable to use penoplex. In this case, the foam blocks will be maximally protected from all external factors.

What is the best time to work

Often, inexperienced builders, after building a house from gas silicate blocks, immediately begin work on thermal insulation. Actually this gross mistake. The fact is that after the production of blocks, they are immediately placed in sealed packaging at the factory. Thus, at the time of construction, their humidity is at the original level.

If you start warming immediately after construction, the foam blocks will begin to absorb all the moisture.

As a result, their vapor permeability will decrease. In the cold season, when the heating is turned on inside, the moisture inside the walls will begin to move in the direction where the partial pressure is lower (that is, into the house). Reaching up to interior decoration, it will start to condense on the surface and the walls will become damp. As a result, the foam blocks will begin to freeze, and the insulator will quickly rot.

Therefore, it is necessary to protect the facade from moisture, for example, by covering it with a film and allowing the moisture to completely evaporate (this takes 3-5 months, depending on weather conditions). The ideal alignment - the house is built in the spring, and the insulation work on the outside begins at the end of the summer. In this case, the foam blocks will dry completely, which will increase the overall efficiency of the procedures performed.

We study the methodology of work

Thermal insulation of buildings from gas silicate blocks is carried out in several stages. To achieve maximum efficiency, it is necessary to fully comply with all norms and regulations.

Preparing the original surface

The preliminary stage includes the following operations:

Complete cleaning of the surface of the foam blocks from the outside from dirt, dust. If there are defects, they are sealed with a strong cement mortar (for a large area, it is better to use the so-called "breathing plaster").
Impregnation of blocks with special water repellents. This is an optional procedure, but it will better protect the facade from moisture. Spray technique and consumption are different for different models so please read the instructions carefully.
Laying waterproofing material over the entire area of the facade, overlapping with an allowance of 10 cm. The membrane film does its job well. For fixing, a special glue is used.

Create a frame of strength

Now it is necessary to build a frame of bars into which the insulator will be laid. Their width should be 1-2 cm more than the estimated thickness of the heat-insulating layer. They should be fastened to special dowel-nails for foam blocks. To create holes, it is imperative to use appropriate drills for aerated concrete. The fact is that this material is fragile, and when using conventional tools, there is a high probability of damage.

The distance between the bars should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the mineral wool roll, usually it is 60 cm. This is necessary for a tighter fit of the mat and to prevent the formation of cracks. Windows and doors must be fully framed around the perimeter. It is also necessary to add several perpendicular lines from the beam in increments of 1-1.5 meters to ensure increased structural strength.

The final stage - laying with subsequent finishing

It remains to fill the space inside the bars with mineral wool. For fixing it is necessary to use a special glue that has good adhesion with aerated concrete. The mats are laid end-to-end, and even the slightest cracks should not be allowed.

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer must be at least 10 cm, otherwise the efficiency will be low. It is recommended to lay in 2 layers (mat thickness 5-7) in a checkerboard pattern. This technique allows you to reliably protect the joints from the penetration of moisture and cold air.

At the end, facade panels are attached to the created frame, and on them already finishing. In this case, it is necessary to create a ventilation gap of 2-3 cm. This will prevent the formation of condensate and reduce the thermal conductivity of the heat-insulating layer.

The most obvious reason to insulate walls from the outside is to save free space from inside the room. The heat-insulating sandwich, which, when insulating foam concrete consists of a heater, a vapor barrier layer and a decorative sheathing, eats, as a rule, about 10-15 centimeters along each wall.

The second factor, due to which insulation from the outside is more preferable than from the inside, is the problem of freezing of the walls and the formation of a dew point as a result.

As already mentioned, the low thermal conductivity of foam concrete contributes to the fact that walls erected along right technology they do not freeze, however, due to design and construction errors, or as a result of shrinkage, microcracks can form in the walls of the house, which become cold bridges.

In the cold season, non-insulated walls of a house or a bath without cold bridges freeze through. If you perform insulation from the inside, and not from the outside, then the insulation will not prevent the walls from freezing, moreover, condensation will constantly form between the cold wall and the heat-insulating material, due to the temperature difference.

The thermal insulation material will absorb moisture and gain weight, as a result of which the load on the bearing walls. Also, when moisture is collected, heat-insulating materials are characterized by a loss functional characteristics and rapid destruction.

Condensation between the wall and thermal insulation is the main cause of poor indoor climate - it provokes an increase in air humidity from inside the house, which contributes to the formation of mold on the surface of the walls.

When insulating the facade of a house or bath, even in the coldest season, the walls will be reliably protected from freezing, as a result of which the dew point will be transferred to their outer side, which will solve all of the above problems.

The above indicates that the insulation of the facade from the outside, with the same labor costs, will be an order of magnitude more efficient and rational than the thermal insulation of the walls from the inside of the house.

If you want to perform internal insulation and install, then it is best to do floor insulation. As practice shows, the heat loss of the floor on the ground floor of the house is about 15% of the total heat loss of the building.

Floor insulation can be performed using several technologies at once - either equip the lag floor insulation, or pour insulated concrete screed, on top of which install flooring. The underfloor heating system, which has recently become popular, has also proven itself well.

1.2 How insulate?

As already mentioned, foam concrete does not have high strength characteristics, especially this material is afraid of serious point loads, under the influence of which cracking of blocks is possible.

This characteristic imposes certain restrictions on thermal insulation materials that can be used to insulate the outer walls of foam concrete buildings (houses, baths, garages). Insulation for foam blocks should be as light as possible, and not require the arrangement of a heavy supporting frame.

Among all the heaters on the market for external thermal insulation of the walls of a house or bath from a foam block, polystyrene foam heaters (regular polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam) are most often used, and mineral wool.

When thermally insulating a facade from a foam block, the crate for mineral wool is made of a light metal profile, which does not exert a serious mechanical load on the load-bearing walls.

If the insulation used does not have vapor barrier characteristics, which is typical for mineral wool, additional vapor barrier installation is required (special membrane films are used).

Let's compare specifications the materials most in demand for the insulation of facades of foam concrete houses:

Thermal conductivity, W / mk: extruded polystyrene foam (EP) on - 0.033; mineral wool (MW) - 0.036;
Vapor permeability, Mg / mchPa: extruded polystyrene foam - low (0.06), mineral wool - high (0.3);
The percentage of moisture absorption during full immersion for 24 hours: EP - 0.4, MW - 0.5;
Fire resistance: EP - combustible material (combustibility class G3), MV - refractory material (class G1);

The advantages of extruded polystyrene foam include high mechanical strength and resistance to deformation, due to which EP practically does not shrink.

The disadvantages of extruded polystyrene foam, in addition to flammability, also include the fear of solar radiation, as a result of which the material may lose its characteristics, which requires the EP to be sheathed with some kind of decorative material.

The strengths of mineral wool is durability, while mineral wool is not prone to loss of functional characteristics throughout the entire service life. Mineral wool is a chemically inert material that is not afraid of rodents that love to feast on polystyrene foam.

If you decide to use ordinary foam, then products like PSB - 25, PSB - 35, will be quite enough in terms of density.

2 Insulation technology

The facade of a house, or a foam block bath, is insulated with extruded polystyrene foam according to the following algorithm:

The facade is cleared of pollution. Oil stains present on the wall are degreased with gasoline or acetone. If any defects are found - cracks, potholes, etc., even the smallest ones, they must be repaired sand-cement mortar to prevent further degradation of the material;

The facade of the house is covered with a layer of primer deep penetration. Large surfaces can be easily processed with a roller. The primer is necessary for better adhesion of the adhesive composition and foam concrete;
Along the lower contour of the wall, at a height of 1-2 centimeters above the ground, a metal profile is fixed, similar in thickness to the width of the insulation. The first row of thermal insulation will be installed on the profile;
Since expanded polystyrene has a minimum vapor conductivity, this insulation does not require additional vapor barrier. According to the manufacturer's instructions, glue for polystyrene foam boards is diluted, and the insulation is fixed from the bottom up over the entire surface of the facade. Glue is best to evenly cover the entire back surface of the plate, use a spatula to level the mixture;
Next, you need to plaster the insulation, so we first cover it with a primer. Plastering with fiberglass reinforcing mesh. After the surface is leveled and plaster composition completely dry, the thermal insulation is painted with waterproof paint.

The technology of insulating a house from foam blocks with foam insulation (video)

foam blocks called blocks of foamed concrete, obtained by cold pouring concrete mortar into molds or by heating it in molds in an autoclave.

The result is cellular concrete different brands, significantly differing in their properties. However common property of these building materials - thermal conductivity, which is 1.2–4.3 times lower than that of hollow ceramic bricks (depending on density).

According to this indicator foam concrete blocks approach the wood, which makes them good heat insulators. For this reason, houses built from such materials are often not insulated at all.

However, modern insulating materials are several times superior to cellular concrete in terms of heat-insulating properties. So, expanded polystyrene with a density of 33 kg / m³ with the same layer thickness conducts heat approximately 2.5 times worse than foam concrete with a density of 300 kg / m³. This means that it makes sense to insulate buildings made of cellular concrete.

Important! Foam concrete is a vapor-permeable building material. Its vapor permeability is 2–5 times greater than that of wood, so it must be protected from the penetration of vapors and drops. If this is not done, the water accumulated in the pores will destroy the blocks when freezing.

Outside, the foam concrete wall is plastered, closing the pores from moisture. Such a coating protects cellular concrete from destruction. There is another way of protection- insulate the wall and only then finish it. In this case, the dew point will move from the porous wall into the thickness of the heat insulator. In this case, foam concrete will not freeze and collapse.

Usually thermal insulation is laid from the outside. However, this not always possible, so buildings are sometimes insulated from the inside. If you have to do this, read the article "". And here we will consider the insulation of the house from the foam blocks from the outside.

In order for thermal insulation to be effective and serve for a long time, you need to choose the right insulation. For outdoor insulation walls made of foam concrete most often use the following materials:

Mineral wool. Basalt wool and glass wool in slabs are suitable for outdoor work. This insulation allows steam to pass through and slightly absorbs moisture, reducing its thermal insulation properties. For this reason, mineral wool requires waterproofing. Glass wool and basalt wool do not burn and do not support combustion. These materials must be handled with gloves, respiratory protection with a respirator, as they irritate the skin and respiratory tract.
Expanded polystyrene in slabs. This insulation is available in the form of coarse and fine mesh. It is advisable to choose penoplex, since it is stronger for fracture and does not crumble like polystyrene. Both materials do not allow steam to pass through and absorb water very poorly, so they do not need a vapor barrier. In terms of heat-insulating properties, expanded polystyrene is better than mineral wool by about 1.5 times. Another important advantage of expanded polystyrene is its low density. Due to this property, it practically does not create a load on the wall, which is very important for cellular concretes that do not have high strength.

Other heat insulators for laying on cellular concrete used much less frequently.

For fixing plates fasteners will have to be selected on the wall. To fix the insulation on gas and foam blocks, dowels made of impact-resistant plastic or metal with a thermal head are chosen. In this case, the anchors (expanding part with notches) of such dowels must be at least 100 mm long. Dowels with short anchors (50 mm) are only suitable for monolithic concrete or solid brick.

For styling on a wall of cellular concrete, basalt wool or glass wool of minimum density (50 kg / m³) is used.

In this case, as a rule, one layer of plates is sufficient. 50 mm thick even for areas with a harsh climate, since the main thermal insulation is cellular concrete itself.

Laying do in this order:

The wall is cleaned of excess mortar and leveled. If elements stick out of the wall that cannot be removed, the material will fit around them. At the same time, cuts are made in the plates in the right place.
Mineral wool slabs are laid directly on the wall end to end by fixing them with dowels. It must be remembered that aerated concrete is a fragile material. Holes in the insulation and blocks are drilled carefully and the dowels are driven in carefully so as not to crumble the blocks.
If the insulation is laid in two layers, the second layer of plates is placed in such a way that the outer plates cover the joints of the inner ones. At single-layer insulation the joints of the plates are sealed with mounting foam.
Outside, mineral wool is covered with facing brickwork. Such a brick has a smooth surface, practically does not absorb water and is frost-resistant. The facing brick is placed on the foundation, and above the window and doorways- on reinforced concrete lintels, but in no case on aerated concrete. Aerated concrete cannot withstand such heavy cladding.
Openings are left in the lower part of the facing masonry, closing plastic gratings. The same barred openings are made in the upper part of the wall. These holes are needed for ventilation of mineral wool. Steam penetrating through the foam concrete walls freely passes through the mineral wool and escapes through the upper vents.

Insulation of the house with polystyrene foam

(penoplex) differs in properties from mineral wool. Thanks to this distinction the technology of its laying is simplified:

Wall alignment. This stage is the same as in the case of mineral wool, but with one difference: the wall is primed after cleaning and leveling. This is necessary in order to close the pores on the surface of the blocks. In this case, the glue will not be absorbed into the blocks and will only be used to glue the polystyrene foam to the wall.
After the primer dries, the wall is smeared with carefully mixed glue., and then the insulation boards are laid end-to-end on it. With a single-layer installation, the joints are carefully sealed with construction foam. This foam can also be used as an adhesive by applying it to the inner surface of the boards. With two-layer laying, the outer plates are laid, closing the joints of the inner ones. At the same time, it must be remembered that winter foam containing toluene cannot be used to work with foam plastic and foam plastic.
Glued polystyrene boards additionally attached to the wall with dowels so that the distance between adjacent dowels does not exceed 50 cm.
Having fixed the reinforcing mesh over the insulation with dowels, plaster is applied to it, and then finished with facade putty.

When insulated with polystyrene foam, the thermal insulation layer does not allow water vapor to pass through. So that the wall does not dampen due to the penetration of vapors from the inside, the inner surface of the wall is also primed and then finished.

Excess water vapor is removed from the premises with ventilation.

Thermal insulation properties of foam blocks not always enough to keep the house warm. If you have to insulate a house made of cellular concrete, this can be done with mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

Insulating foam and aerated concrete walls, must be taken into account that they cannot withstand heavy loads. For this reason, hinged facades are not mounted on such walls. Facing masonry is done with support only on the foundation.

Wall insulation not enough to keep warm. To make the house cozy even in the harsh winter, you also need to take care of the insulation of the roof, ceiling and floor. Only with such comprehensive thermal insulation, the house will be a comfortable home, and a minimum of fuel will be spent on heating it.

Recommendations of experts on foam insulation of houses from foam blocks from the outside and from the inside, see the video:

Stones from this type of cellular concrete, due to their low cost and ease of working with them, are widely used in low-rise construction. Opinions on whether it is worth it to insulate a foam concrete house from the outside differ greatly. This material is characterized by high thermal insulation properties, and many consider additional finishing waste of money. For those who have decided that, nevertheless, this stage of general construction work should not be neglected - this article.

General information about the material

Before proceeding to a short review of the most suitable for external insulation materials, it is useful to recall some of the features of foam blocks. If you do not take them into account, then it is unlikely that you will be able to make the best choice.

Firstly, foam concrete stones have a porous structure. And here there is a relationship between their density and thermal insulation properties, and the opposite. Therefore, if you need better insulation of the house, you will have to increase the thickness of the walls, and hence the width of the foundation tape.

Secondly, the porosity of foam blocks dictates the need to minimize the risk of condensation. From this point of view, the best solutions are “wet” or ventilated facades. Although when choosing insulation that is glued or sprayed on the outside (polystyrene, polyurethane foam), there are other options. In any case, this must be taken into account.

Thirdly, the porous structure of foam blocks makes it difficult to fix on outer walls supporting frame, and also limits the choice of heaters, based on the total weight of the entire structure. Therefore, for the thermal insulation of a house, any material, such as, for example, for a brick building, will not work.

The reasons for when a decision is made to insulate a house are different - local climatic conditions, insufficient thickness of walls made of foam blocks, the desire to save more on heating, and so on. But thermal insulation is always equipped only on the outside. Mounting from the inside is impractical, as it will reduce (sometimes significantly) the usable area of \u200b\u200bthe building. Plus, it will complicate the fastening of anything hinged on the walls of the house from foam blocks.

Brief overview of heaters

One of good options. As a rule, when insulating buildings from the outside, its variety is used - expanded polystyrene.

It is quite easy to work with these plates, as they have a strict geometry, and if necessary, they are easy to cut.
For mounting on the wall of a house made of foam blocks, you do not have to mount a supporting frame. The insulation is fixed to the adhesive composition, in some cases, with "fastening" special / dowels.
High moisture-repellent properties of the material provide additional waterproofing of foam concrete blocks.

It is perhaps the only one in polystyrene, but significant. Feature such thermal insulation - low vapor permeability. If you do not provide for high-quality air exchange, then there is no need to talk about a good microclimate in a house made of foam blocks. Owner reviews indicate that at high temperatures outside, it becomes stuffy inside the building.

Many point out that natural ventilation not enough, so you have to install a hood. And this is an additional cost, including for the project, since it is unlikely that you will be able to make complex engineering calculations on your own. In the case of using polystyrene for insulation under siding, this problem is partially removed. There are several ways. For example, arrangement of ventilation / channels at the joints of foam blocks.

It remains to be added that the external finishing of such a heater is usually done by plastering.

With regard to foam concrete, many consider it almost an ideal option, although not everything is so simple here. In addition, there are several modifications of mineral wool.

Good vapor permeability of the insulation.
Convenience of laying mineral wool due to its elasticity.
High degree of thermal insulation of foam blocks.

They are insulated only under siding.

High speed of work on warming.
Maximum protection of foam blocks from the influence of the atmosphere.

Whatever the apologists of this technology say, there are enough shortcomings in such insulation of the house from the outside.

Spraying polyurethane foam leads to the fact that it completely isolates the base. She stops breathing. Moreover, the insulation partially penetrates deep into the structure, filling the pores of the foam blocks, and there will be problems with ventilation that cannot be solved on their own.
The high cost of this method of thermal insulation. Such insulation is possible only with the use of special / equipment. In addition, before applying to foam concrete blocks, the composition still needs to be prepared, and correctly. The services of professionals will definitely be needed, and you will have to pay for it.
Poor maintainability of the heat-insulating layer. You can dismantle the insulation in a separate area yourself, but in order to restore the integrity of the coating, you will have to invite the craftsmen again to apply a "portion" of polyurethane foam. In addition, since it fits under the siding, you will need to disassemble the outer cladding over a large area.

IV. Insulation with plaster

In this case, the use of special compositions is implied, which in themselves differ in thermal insulation properties. Dry mixes for finishing foam blocks are commercially available.

High speed insulation outside.
Possibility at low cost change the appearance of the building, update the walls.
High maintainability.
Good protection of foam concrete from external factors.

1. It is necessary to choose a mixture specifically for finishing foam concrete. One of the main criteria is good vapor permeability of the layer.

2. Before you start insulating the walls of foam blocks, you will have to seriously practice. The peculiarity of the work is that it must be carried out at high speed. The plaster “sets” quite quickly, so there is a high risk of the formation of joints in individual sections that will be noticeable.

3. Exact adherence to technology. Such an insulating composition is laid on foam blocks in at least 2 layers. The thickness of the outer should be about half that of the inner. It is important! The recommended ratio (in cm) is 0.5 to 1.

4. Mixtures for foam blocks differ not only in manufacturer, but also in composition. Therefore, they are characterized by varying degrees of adhesion. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account the manufacturing technology of purchased stones - they are cast or sawn.

How to insulate a house from foam blocks from the outside: an overview of thermal insulation, photos, videos, diagrams

How to choose the thermal insulation of a house made of foam concrete or other cellular concrete? We insulate the house from foam blocks with our own hands, the pros and cons of expanded polystyrene, mineral wool,

How to insulate a foam block house from the outside with your own hands

Foreword. In this article, we will look at how to insulate the foam block from the outside with our own hands. For many homeowners, the insulation of a foam block house with foam plastic, mineral wool and foam plastic comes to the fore when cold weather sets in.

The people gave the common name "foam blocks" building blocks from foam concrete and gas silicate. The material is used for the construction of private, low-rise buildings, or blocks make an insulation layer on the outside, 300 - 400 mm thick. Earlier we already wrote about how to insulate a house from gas silicate. In this article, we will analyze the insulation of the facade of a foam block house from the outside with our own hands.

Due to the porous structure, foam blocks provide excellent adhesion to any decorating material. But many owners of foam block houses often resort to self-insulation. Do I need to insulate a foam block house and how to insulate a foam block house? What materials can be used in this case, read later in this article.

Is it worth it to insulate a house from a foam block

Scheme of a ventilated facade

How expedient is it necessary to insulate a foam block house? Foam concrete was invented for the construction of buildings with single-layer walls without additional insulation. Because they have a low heat transfer coefficient. This eliminates the problem of condensation between the wall and the insulation. However, during severe Russian winters, a lot of money will be spent on heating a house.

For the heat-saving advantages of foam concrete, you have to pay with the strength of the walls of the house. Foam block masonry may not withstand the load of "wet" and "ventilated" facades. The foam block is a rather fragile material that is afraid of moisture and freezing. It is not recommended to finish the facade of the foam block with decorative and natural stone. To insulate a foam block house from the outside, foam plastic, foam plastic or mineral wool is often used.

Experts do not recommend warming the house from the foam block from the inside. However, if a lot of money is spent on heating or the thickness of the walls is not enough to maintain a warm and pleasant microclimate in the room, then the thermal insulation procedure is simply necessary. Moreover, thermal insulation measures should be carried out outside the building.

When insulating from the outside, there are a number of advantages:

Dependence on the insulation of the foam block outside and inside

1. space saving rooms;

2. insulation from the side of the heated room, prevents the walls from heating up. The foam block in the cold season is exposed to negative temperatures and can go through several cycles of freezing and thawing. As a result, the integrity of the blocks is violated;

3. insulation inside the building, shifts the dew point closer to the heated room. Condensation falls in the depth of the block, which leads to the appearance of mold and the gradual destruction of the wall;

4. thermal insulation outside the building will extend the life of the blocks, the insulation prevents the walls from freezing, the dew point is brought to the outer surface, from where the condensate is removed by air flows.

How to insulate a foam block house from the outside

What material to choose for thermal insulation? The ideal option for self-insulation of foam concrete is a slab material: polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or mineral wool mats. When using a vapor-permeable insulation (mineral wool), it should be protected with waterproofing. If the house is insulated with vapor-tight materials, then a ventilated gap must be equipped, which will remove possible condensate from the wall surface.

Insulation of a foam block house with mineral wool

Mineral wool- vapor-permeable, environmentally friendly, non-flammable, prevents the spread of fire, may shrink if installed incorrectly. Work with the material should be in the presence of personal protective equipment.

Expanded polystyrene, polystyrene- vapor-tight, has a low heat transfer coefficient and water-repellent properties, does not shrink, does not freeze. When insulating a house with foam plastic from the outside, it should be protected with a decorative layer from ultraviolet rays.

Another new material, for insulation of facades country houses are thermal panels. The process of insulating a house with thermal panels is very simple and fast, the work is available to any non-professional builder.

How to insulate a foam block with foam plastic from the outside

Scheme of foam block insulation with foam plastic

Stages of warming a house from foam blocks with foam plastic with your own hands:

1. the surface of the wall is cleaned of dust, dirt, if there are irregularities on the wall, then it is leveled;

2. the foam block facade is primed, the primer layer will prevent the absorption of glue into the thickness of the wall;

3. the starting metal profile is fixed on the wall, the first row of material will be mounted on it;

4. preparation of glue for polystyrene foam, following the instructions, carefully mix the solution with a drill with a nozzle;

5. installation of slab insulation, the fins are stacked in a checkerboard pattern relative to each other;

6. We fix each expanded polystyrene plate with a dish-shaped dowel in the corners and in the center of the plate;

7. gluing a reinforcing mesh to give the insulation the necessary strength;

8. insulation plastering and finishing with facade putty, it is also possible to sheathe the house with distillation or siding.

How to insulate a foam block with foam plastic from the outside

The scheme of insulation of the foam block with foam plastic

Stages of insulation of a foam block house with foam plastic with your own hands:

1. we clean the surface of the wall of the house from dust, knock down the influx of the solution;

2. we process the facade with a primer, which ensures the adhesion of the adhesive to the wall surface;

3. fasten the basement starting profile to the bottom of the wall - a support for materials that protects the insulation from rodents.

4. preparation of glue for penoplex, following the recommendations of the instructions, carefully mix the solution with a drill;

5. with a spatula or grater, apply glue to the plates and glue them on the facade from the bottom up and in a checkerboard pattern;

6. we fix each insulation plate in the corners and in the center with an umbrella (dish-shaped) dowel;

7. on the sheathed facade, we glue the reinforcing mesh: first we glue all the corners, and then all the walls;

8. We apply a plaster layer along the grid, after drying we apply plaster and paint the facade.

How to insulate the foam block from the outside with mineral wool, polystyrene, Do-it-yourself insulation

In this article, we will look at how to insulate the foam block from the outside with our own hands. For many homeowners, the insulation of a foam block house with mineral wool comes to the fore.

What is the best way to insulate a foam block house from the outside?

A foam block house is never left unfinished. This is due to the unpresentable appearance walls. Together with the facade cladding, thermal insulation is often performed, which should protect the building from heat losses in winter period and maintain normal temperature and humidity conditions in the premises. It would be more correct to insulate the house from foam blocks, made from the outside.

Why is it better to insulate the outside

Thermal insulation can be placed on both sides, but if possible, choose the right solution for insulation from the outside. This is justified by the following facts:

When the thermal insulation is located from the inside, the free area of \u200b\u200bthe room decreases, the insulation of the walls from the outside does not affect the internal dimensions.
The external arrangement of thermal protection allows to increase the service life of the supporting structures. They are reliably protected from freezing and external adverse influences. Placing the material from the inside does not give such an effect, protection is provided only for the room, the surface of the walls remains cold.
The next fact follows from the previous one. If thermal insulation is carried out from the inside, then outer wall stays cold. In this case, the dew point (condensate, moisture from steam) gets inside the supporting structure and can lead to its destruction. When the heat-insulating material is located outside, moisture does not form inside the wall.

House without insulation and with insulation inside/outside

Protecting walls from the inside makes sense only under special circumstances:

work is carried out at high altitude (this is practically not applicable for a foam concrete house, since the strength characteristics of the material do not allow the construction of high walls);
the finishing of the facade is completed (without insulation), doing the work correctly (from the outside) will require serious financial and time costs.

If it is decided to carry out thermal insulation of walls from the inside, it is necessary to carefully monitor the quality and safety of materials and adherence to technology (laying vapor barrier, waterproofing). It is better to give preference to more natural types of insulation, such as ecowool or insulated plaster.

You can perform thermal insulation of walls from the inside with mineral wool. It is effective in terms of protection and will not block the passage of air through the building envelope.

Cold air insulation options

The protection of the walls of a foam block house in the general case for all insulation options is carried out in the same way. Before starting work, you need to make two decisions:

choice of insulation;
choice of finish.

Insulation of a house from foam blocks with warm plaster

When the house is located in areas that are quite favorable from a climatic point of view, these two solutions can be combined by choosing a “warm” plaster. The material simultaneously performs two functions. To improve the strength characteristics, the layer is laid on a reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass. The work is carried out in the following order:

cleaning the hard surface from dirt, dust and grease;
applying a primer layer;
the first layer of plaster;
fixing the reinforcing mesh;
then you need to apply the required number of layers of plaster;
The finish layer can be silicone-based paint.

The choice of insulation

Here are a few options that are among the most common:

mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
extruded polystyrene foam;
ecowool;
polyurethane foam.

It is best to choose the material that will not block the movement of air through the walls of the foam block house.

The most economical material that meets this requirement is mineral wool. Warming with mineral wool is important to carry out taking into account the characteristics of the material.

Insulation of a house from foam blocks with mineral wool

The following activities are required:

side vapor barrier warm air(most cheap option- polyethylene film, but it will not allow the walls to "breathe", it is better to stop at more technological vapor barrier membranes);
waterproofing from the side of cold air (again, in this case, it is worth choosing a waterproofing or vapor diffusion membrane);
an air-ventilated layer to remove moisture from the surface of the material is arranged between the thermal insulation and the skin and is assumed to be at least 50 mm thick.

Choice of skin material

At this stage, you need to choose the appearance of the house. The following materials are suitable for facing a house from foam blocks:

Siding is the most economical and common option. If you have sufficient funds, you should consider other options. The lining will allow you to finish under the beam, and the block house under the log.

In general, the installation of thermal insulation and cladding is carried out in the following order:

Scheme of sheathing a house from a foam block with siding

surface cleaning;
fixing the vapor barrier;
assembly of a frame from wooden bars (section depending on the thickness of the insulation) or a metal profile;
installation of insulation with fixing it on dish-shaped dowels;
fixing the waterproofing (if the frame is made of wood, you can fix it with a construction stapler with the obligatory gluing of the joints with adhesive tape, the same is true for vapor barrier);
installation of the skin, the method of fastening is selected depending on the selected material.

Another option exterior finish at home - the construction of a verst of brick. In this case, it is necessary to provide metal or plastic connections between the two parts of the wall. Thermal insulation is mounted before the erection of a brick wall and is protected by it from external influences.

Insulation of a house from foam blocks outside: choice of material

Proper insulation will make the owners of the house feel comfortable. In this article, you will learn how to insulate a foam block house from the outside.

How to insulate a house from foam blocks (aerated concrete) from the outside and how

In this article, we will analyze in detail how and how to insulate a house made of aerated concrete. This procedure carries many nuances associated with the peculiarity of gas silicate blocks.

We analyze the theoretical aspects

Why is it better to insulate the outside

Finishing from the inside seems to be a more affordable option. However, insulation from the outside seems to be a more reasonable method, since it has the following advantages:

There are no so-called "cold bridges". As a result of the temperature difference, walls made of gas silicate blocks practically do not participate in protection from the cold if the insulator is located indoors.
The useful area of the house is not reduced. After internal insulation, the size of the premises will be reduced by 5-7%.
Increased efficiency. Finishing the house outside will increase the usefulness of the heat-insulating layer by 20-30%.
Less problems with condensation.
The created frame for laying the insulation will serve as a springboard for further finishing.
A significant extension of the operational period of gas silicate blocks, as they will be protected from absolutely all external irritants.

The only case when it is not possible to lay a heat-insulating layer from the outside is if the facade of the building is already finished. In all other situations, this method should be used.

Choosing the right insulator

Construction markets abound with a huge number of thermal insulation materials, but which one to choose? The most important condition is that vapor-permeable models cannot be used. The fact is that gas silicate blocks have an almost ideal indicator of this characteristic.

Does not burn (unlike all its counterparts).
It has extremely low thermal conductivity. In this aspect, it is second only to penoplex.
Creates additional sound insulation.
Easy to work.
Resists moisture well.

Of course, if funds allow, then it is reasonable to use penoplex. In this case, the foam blocks will be maximally protected from all external factors.

What is the best time to work

Often, inexperienced builders, after building a house from gas silicate blocks, immediately begin work on thermal insulation. In fact, this is a gross mistake. The fact is that after the production of blocks, they are immediately placed in sealed packaging at the factory. Thus, at the time of construction, their humidity is at the original level.

If you start warming immediately after construction, the foam blocks will begin to absorb all the moisture.

As a result, their vapor permeability will decrease. In the cold season, when the heating is turned on inside, the moisture inside the walls will begin to move in the direction where the partial pressure is lower (that is, into the house). Having reached the interior finish, it will begin to condense on the surface and the walls will become damp. As a result, the foam blocks will begin to freeze, and the insulator will quickly rot.

We study the methodology of work

Thermal insulation of buildings from gas silicate blocks is carried out in several stages. To achieve maximum efficiency, it is necessary to fully comply with all norms and regulations.

Preparing the original surface

The preliminary stage includes the following operations:

Complete cleaning of the surface of the foam blocks from the outside from dirt, dust. If there are defects, they are sealed with a strong cement mortar (for a large area, it is better to use the so-called "breathing plaster").
Impregnation of blocks with special water repellents. This is an optional procedure, but it will better protect the facade from moisture. The spraying technique and flow rate differ for different models, so you need to carefully study the instructions.
Laying waterproofing material over the entire area of the facade, overlapping with an allowance of 10 cm. The membrane film does its job well. For fixing, a special glue is used.

Create a frame of strength

The final stage - laying with subsequent finishing

At the end, facade panels are attached to the created frame, and there is already a finish on them. In this case, it is necessary to create a ventilation gap of 2-3 cm. This will prevent the formation of condensate and reduce the thermal conductivity of the heat-insulating layer.

Insulation of a house from foam blocks outside - materials used

What materials are suitable for insulating a house made of foam blocks (aerated concrete) from the outside. Pros and cons of the materials used. The order of work.

Foam block buildings can retain heat well, but they still need additional thermal insulation. In order for the house to be really warm, it is important not only to prevent freezing, but also, if possible, to reduce the cost of paying for energy resources. Wall insulation with foam concrete can nominally be divided into internal and external. We will analyze in detail how and what to insulate.

Benefits of additional insulation

Cellular concrete (foam block) consists of foam concentrate. Developed and released in 1975 by German scientists. Then it was made from protein components. What are the advantages of this invention and why is it so popular today? As many studies show, foam concrete is endowed with good vapor permeability. The properties are very close to wood.

Simply put, the walls of this material have the ability to breathe, this prevents the formation of fungus or mold on them. Colonies of microorganisms contributing to these phenomena cannot live on their surface. The rest of the benefits can be listed:

Unaffected by weather and temperature phenomena. The foam block equally well tolerates heat and cold.
It retains heat well in winter, coolness and high humidity in summer.
In addition to keeping warm, it keeps outside noise from the street well.
It has a small weight, so the structure can be built on an inexpensive basis of their piles.
The material is considered environmentally friendly - it does not emit harmful fumes and substances.
Easy to process when laying.
Inexpensive in cost.

Insulation of the house with foam blocks from the outside

External insulation should be carried out after the building is completely lined with one of additional materials. For foam blocks, it is desirable to choose lightweight structures. Brick, stone will be too heavy for him. So that the foam blocks do not crumble, you need to create a solid and reliable foundation.

Mineral wool

Advantageous characteristics of the material:

refers to universal view heaters;
has a low cost, good thermal insulation properties;
insulation of the building from the outside with mineral wool will provide good ventilation not only to the blocks, but also to the premises inside the house, since the material has good vapor permeability;
the material has good resistance to fire;
considered reliable and durable.

Mineral wool will perform these functions only if there is no moisture inside it. Otherwise, completely or partially saturated with water, the thermal insulation properties of the material will be significantly reduced.

There is a list of disadvantages that you should also familiarize yourself with before using mineral wool for facade insulation:

if waterproofing was not used during installation, the properties of the mineral wool will decrease;
installation must be carried out using safety measures - strictly in a respirator;
if errors are made during installation, the material will certainly give additional shrinkage.

Styrofoam

Compared to the previous heat insulator, this one is not affected by moisture. This is an exhaustive answer to the question of how to protect a building erected from foam blocks from moisture from the outside. Additional benefits include:

low cost - cheaper than mineral wool;
good resistance to low temperatures in winter;
high rate of sound insulation;
an order of magnitude higher thermal performance.

Foam block insulation with foam plastic is considered the most optimal, affordable and correct solution. The only drawback is the need for additional coverage.

Expanded polystyrene is exposed to ultraviolet light and can break down over time.

Penofol

Penofol is polyethylene foam, which is protected by a layer of aluminum foil. Serves as a heat reflective screen. Gives walls extra strength. Insulation of walls from a foam block with foam allows you to save 97% of the heat in the house. But it is used to insulate the internal surfaces of the walls. It can simply be glued to wall surfaces, and not attached to the frame.

polyurethane foam

They can insulate cellular concrete blocks inside the building. Polyurethane foam is foamed polymer clay. It is applied to the surface in liquid form. After curing, it takes the form of a seamless hardened coating. Well protects the building from heat loss. This insulation for walls made of foam blocks is endowed with the following advantages:

resistant to moisture;
evens out minor unevenness on the walls;
has a service life of 50 years;
does not need preventive measures, repairs, additional processing.

Which method of insulation is better internal or external and why

Thermal insulation from the outside under the siding is better than the inside because:

External does not affect the size of the usable area inside the building. Internal will reduce it by 5-7%.
When using external thermal insulation, cold bridges do not form on the walls. External insulation will reduce or prevent the formation of condensate, if you know how and with what to sheathe, using all the rules of technology.
The frame built for thermal insulation can perform another additional function - a foothold for finishing cladding.

The unequivocal answer to the question of whether it is necessary to insulate the facade of the building from the outside remains positive. This will not only reduce heat loss, but also help extend the life of the house.

The only option for the impossibility of insulating the walls from the outside is the case when the facade of the building is already finished facing material. In all other cases, it is desirable to use only this method.

Why is it not desirable to insulate the house only inside

If external thermal insulation is done, is it necessary to do internal insulation or can you do without it?

If the warm sheathing is done only inside, leaving the outer surfaces of the walls without warm sheathing, then the house will remain cold.
Condensation will form on the walls, and this has a detrimental effect on their quality, reliability and service life.
On such walls, fungus or mold is likely to appear.

The unequivocal answer to the question of whether it is possible to insulate a house only from the inside will be the answer - no. Is it necessary to insulate the house inside if it is already insulated outside. This combination is allowed.

Insulation of the ceiling and floors of the foam block structure

If we talk about high-quality thermal insulation of the whole house, then the floor and ceiling also deserve additional warm cladding. Insulation from the inside and outside will significantly reduce heat loss, but cold air flows will still penetrate inside the building from below - through the floors and from above - through the roof.

For foam block buildings, a concrete floor is best suited. Only before pouring it is necessary to organize a crate of wooden beams. Then fill the cells in it with expanded clay. Only after these measures can the floors be poured with concrete mortar. How to insulate it after the solution has solidified? From above, you can simply put insulated linoleum, parquet board or other floor covering.

Thermal insulation of ceilings is not needed if it is not planned to equip an additional living room on top of them. If such plans are in the idea, then it is necessary to equip the warm sheathing in the same way as for the walls.

Outside wall insulation

Thermal insulation of external wall surfaces in a foam block structure should be carried out in several stages. In order for the insulation process to be of high quality, it is necessary to strictly follow the norms and instructions of the methodology.

Surface preparation

This step consists of:

Complete cleaning of blocks from external dirt, dust and other debris.
Closing defects on their surfaces, if any. Very large areas of damage are leveled with "breathing plaster".

Saturate the blocks with a layer of water repellent.

The procedure is not mandatory, but it will become an improved protection against exposure and moisture penetration. Spray methods and consumption may vary. It depends on the model, so before using the product, you must carefully study the annotation for the drug.

Insulation of the foam block from the outside provides for laying a layer of waterproofing material, it should be laid on the entire surface of the heat insulator. The membrane film performs this function well.
It is better to fix it on the surface with special glue, overlap it.

Frame construction

This step involves the following operations:

The frame structure is constructed from wooden beams, with a width greater than the expected thickness of the thermal insulation layer by about 1-2 cm.
The bars are fastened with special amateur nails (as for foam blocks).
The holes in them are drilled with aerated concrete drills.

This is explained by the fact that the material (foam block) is very fragile. If you use traditional tools in your work, the probability of damage will increase significantly.

The plant between the bars is less than the expected width of the heat insulator by about 2-3 cm.

This is necessary so that gaps do not form on the insulation mats.

Window and door openings should be framed completely.

This is the final stage of foam concrete insulation:

After all the above manipulations, it remains only to fill the cells of the frame structure with mineral wool. For high-quality adhesion, you can use a special adhesive solution.

Heat insulator mats need to be laid more tightly and end-to-end, it is very important that no gaps form during laying.

The thickness of the mats should be about 10 cm less. Otherwise, its effectiveness will be very low.

Experienced craftsmen advise laying not 1, but 2 layers (in the form of a checkerboard). This will reliably protect the walls from the penetration of moisture and cold air flows.

The final step is to strengthen facade panels and finishing processing of the heat insulator.

It is important not to forget about creating ventilation gaps up to 3 cm in size. This is necessary in order to prevent the formation of condensate, as well as to reduce the thermal conductivity of the insulation.

Insulation for walls made of foam blocks can be used differently, the main thing is to correctly install and sheath the top layer, if necessary according to the technology.