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How to make a scooter from a children's bike. Homemade scooter made of wood. Small costs and imagination will help to make a scooter from a conventional cordless drill

A scooter, of course, is not, but it allows you to save a lot of energy on moving, especially if you use it constantly.

A homemade scooter is easy to make, its cost is minimal, and the health benefits of the body are simply invaluable! After all, it is known that constant uniform loads strengthen the heart muscle and increase the overall tone of the body. A self-assembled scooter helps a lot to increase stamina, if, of course, it is used daily.

Wooden scooter for commuting. The scooter was made of 10 mm plywood and a 28 mm furniture board, the latter went to the support platform.

The front fork of the scooter is taken as standard from a bicycle (20-inch wheel), the rear wheel is of a smaller diameter (12 inches).

The scooter was assembled by hand, self-tapping screws and furniture corners were used as fasteners, in addition to this, all parts were glued with PVA glue.

During the summer of 2012, more than 600 km were covered on a homemade scooter.

It is worth adding to this description that such a homemade scooter is much better than a purchased one. I have not seen a normal scooter with pneumatic tires at an affordable price. Even scooters with 2 suspensions (under each wheel) from Decathlon do not allow driving on grass or a country road, and when driving on paving slabs or chipped asphalt on the roadway, they “knock” and vibrate very strongly, from which it gets boring to ride very quickly.

Bicycle wheels used in a homemade scooter avoid such shaking, and the large diameter of the wheels helps on off-road. In addition, you yourself can design the clearance of your scooter, if you drive along a country road - make it bigger!

With proper manufacture and subsequent varnishing (preferably waterproof - for example, yachting), a home-made scooter will serve you for many years!

More articles for do-it-yourselfers.

In this article, we again touch on the topic of homemade products, this time we will talk about a scooter with a motor. First you need to say about the purpose of this homemade product, it is intended for entertainment, you can ride it along park paths, ride in the yard or drive a short distance.

Now let's talk about the limitations that are inherent in this creation.

1. Let's talk about speed first. It cannot exceed 40 km/h, since the front wheel is small, its diameter is 260 mm, it is taken from a wheelbarrow and can withstand a load of only 80 kg.

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In addition, it has a large area of ​​contact with the road surface relative to a given diameter, in the conditions of operation on a two-wheeled vehicle. In other words, our vehicle will throw from side to side, leaving the driver at risk of falling.

2. Based on the type of tire chosen, we can talk about the critical load that the wheel itself cannot withstand. Since the front wheel is taken from a construction wheelbarrow and the maximum load on it is 80kg. Now consider that no construction worker is running at 40 km/h with an 80 kg wheelbarrow. It can be concluded that the tire is not designed for such a load. Therefore, the maximum weight on the front wheel should not exceed 40 kg. Taking into account the fact that we have two wheels, the maximum weight of the driver with the design should not exceed 80 kg.

3. Travel time. The speed of 40 km/h is high for traveling at night, headlights must be used. You can use an ordinary flashlight, but its power must be at least 20 watts. You can put a dynamo.

4. Age. The person who manages it must understand what is happening around, and what responsibility he bears. Therefore, it cannot be an 8-year-old child.

Now let's talk about those. parts.

Based on their main goal and limiting parameters, the power plant was chosen. Best suited engine from a chainsaw. Wheels were selected based on size and cost. That is why the front wheel is taken from the car, the rear wheel was available. It turned out to be the front wheel from a kart. This makes it possible not to worry about excessive load on it. The drive to the rear wheel is carried out using a chain drive, for this I had to make a gearbox.

It is not difficult to calculate the wheel speed at a speed of 40 km / h. Knowing the speed of the engine and the wheel, dividing the first by the second, a reduction gear ratio of 1:12 was obtained. Then you need to select the chain step. Based on the cost and load, a chain from a bicycle was chosen. But since the smallest possible gear with a bicycle pitch has 10 teeth, the size of a gear with 120 teeth can only be guessed at. Therefore, it was decided to use 2 gearboxes. One of the difficult tasks was to attach the bicycle gear to the chainsaw clutch.




After that, it was made thinner on a lathe, since the step of the chains is the same, but the width is different. The teeth from the clutch were cut off on a lathe. The dimensions of the parts are very small, as a result, the gear had to be shrink-fitted onto the clutch disc. The sprocket was lowered into nitrogen, and the clutch disk was heated to 400 degrees in an oven, which made it possible to plant it more tightly, making the landing tolerance smaller. After that, the clutch discs were hardened again. The first problem has been solved. In order to be able to simply change the gear ratio, the drive of the second gearbox was taken from a sports bike.

In the same not cunning way, the bushing of the rear gears of the bicycle was put on the adapter hub, the adapter hub sits with a tension fit on the shaft, and the shaft on the bearings.

The gear and brake disc are fastened to the wheel using another hub. It is solid and sits on bearings. Naturally, the shaft is motionless. A brake disc is cheaper to grind than to buy on the market, at least in this situation it was like that. The brake machine was used from a bicycle.


Not unimportant process of creating a frame. The easiest way to work with a square is to use a square with a side of 15 mm. The frame was welded in a welding machine, so that the metal would not lead. The steering machine is used from a bicycle, only it has been strengthened a little. With the throttle and brake levers, everything is simple. The gas handle is from a moped, and the brakes are from a bicycle. An oil bottle serves as a gas tank.

Scooters appeared in the 1920s. Initially they were just children's toys, but now they have become a very common mode of transport all over the world - from the simplest variety, pushed by the foot, to numerous types of scooters with motors. Just like the guys in the 1920s, you can build a simple wooden scooter. Here's how to do it.

To make a scooter you need

  • Workbench or goats for sawing
  • Fixed square for carpentry
  • Electric drill with drills with a diameter of 0.6 cm and 13 mm.
  • Two adjustable wrenches
  • Tape measure
  • crosshead screwdriver
  • Pencil
  • sharp saw
  • A hammer
  • Machined for rails, handle and handle bar 3.8 cm x 5.1 cm
  • processed pine for connecting neck 5.1 cm x 7.6 cm
  • for 1.9 cm thick footboard
  • Four bolts with ring: two bolts 0.6 cm thick, 5.1 cm long, with a ring hole diameter of 1.6 cm and two bolts 0.6 cm thick, 7.6 cm long, with a ring hole diameter of 1.6 cm [J]
  • Four 0.6 cm thick, 4.4 cm long carriage bolts with washers and nuts for each
  • Two hex head bolts 0.6 cm thick, 7 cm long, with nuts for each
  • Six 0.6 cm thick carriage bolts, 4.4 cm long, with washers and nuts for each
  • Two 1.3 cm thick, 12.7 cm long carriage bolts with washers and nuts for each
  • One 1.3 cm thick, 15.2 cm long hex bolt with two nuts (reversed) and four washers. It's a pain for the front axle
  • One 1.3 cm thick, 15.2 cm long hex bolt with two nuts (reversed) and four washers. This is a rear axle bolt.
  • One carriage bolt 1.3 cm thick, 20.3 long, with two nuts (reversed). This bolt is inserted into the holes of the o-ring bolts and acts as the pivot of the swivel joint.

We will build a scooter like this

  1. Measure, drank, drilled holes and spread out: a) Saw off pieces of wood in accordance with the indicated dimensions. b) Carefully measure and mark the centers of the holes to be drilled. c) Then drill holes. Note that they are two different diameters. The holes for the axle bolts and the bolts that attach [A] to the connecting neck [C] are 1.3 cm in diameter. All other holes are 0.6 cm in diameter. d) Lay out all the parts on the floor.
  2. Assemble the handle of the scooter: Attach the two corner brackets [I] with bolts to the top of the steering column [E]. Then bolt the handle [F] back in place.
  3. Assemble the front wheels of the scooter: Assemble the front wheels using a 1.3 cm bolt as the wheel axle. Place a washer on each side of each wheel. After checking that the assembled axle is not overtightened to allow the wheels to turn freely, tighten the two nuts opposite each other to make a "locknut". This will help ensure that the assembled axle does not vibrate during constant movement. Place the two o-ring bolts into the corresponding holes in the steering column [E].
  4. Assemble the platform frame: Attach two longitudinal bars [A] to the connecting neck [C]. Place the remaining two eyebolts into the corresponding holes in the neck [C].
  5. Attach the deck: Attach the deck [D] to the two stringers [A] with six carriage bolts.
  6. Attach the steering: Align the rings of bolts in the connecting neck [C] with the rings of the steering rack bolts [E]. Pass a carriage bolt through the holes of the ring bolts, which will act as the kingpin - the pivot pin of the swivel joint. Check that the swivel is free to turn and then tighten the two nuts on the carriage bolt to make a "lock nut". This will ensure that the rod does not fall out and vibrate with constant movement.
  7. Install the connecting neck: Attach the angle bracket to the connecting neck [C] and deck [D] with screws. This is done to strengthen the structure.
  8. Assemble the rear wheels of the scooter: Assemble the rear wheels in the same way as the front wheels in step 3. Check that there is a washer on each side of the wheel and that the wheels turn freely before tightening the “locknut” on the end of the bolt.
  9. Add a Brake: Screw the T-Loop to the back of the deck [D].

Safety when using a homemade scooter

Smooth paved surfaces work best; avoid uneven, wet, rocky surfaces with bumps. Stay away from traffic!

The front part is made of mountain, a hand brake is also installed here. As for the rear, it uses a smaller diameter wheel from a children's bike. The author got the bikes almost for free. To create a powerful frame that will not sag under the weight of a person, a thick-walled metal pipe is used. The scooter is assembled quite quickly and simply. It is enough to have some initial skills in working with the tool.


Materials and tools for the manufacture of a scooter:
- the front of a mountain adult bike;
- rear fork with a wheel from a children's bike;
- steel plates;
- screws;
- a piece of strong metal pipe to create a frame;
- spanners;
- welding machine;
- Bulgarian;
- drill;
- dye.

Scooter manufacturing process:

Step one. We disassemble bicycles
First you need to get the necessary elements to create a scooter. From a mountain bike you will need a front fork with a wheel, you also need to leave a handbrake. You need to take a grinder and cut off the frame from the front fork, as you can see in the photo. In addition, there is also another option, you can not cut off the lower part of the frame, but simply extend it with a piece of pipe if it is stiff enough to create a scooter.

As for the rear fork from a children's bike, it all depends on the design. If this is also a mountain bike, then the plug can simply be unscrewed. If ordinary, you will also have to work as a grinder.

Step two. We create a frame and weld the structure
To create a frame, you need to take a metal pipe and bend it so that it is approximately the same shape as in the photo. The pipe must be strong so that it does not bend under the weight of a person. One end of the pipe is welded to the front fork, and the author welds a metal plate to the other end. Further, the rear fork is already welded to this plate, so the design is more reliable, since the rear wheel has the greatest load.

Step three. We attach a board
To make it comfortable to stand on the scooter while riding, you need to fasten the board to its frame. For these purposes, first you need to weld 2-3 metal plates to the frame and drill holes in them. Well, then the board is simply screwed to the plates using screws with nuts or self-tapping screws. In the board, you will need to make a cut, as in the photo, so that the frame enters it.

Step four. Scooter painting
You can paint the scooter to your taste. The author used matte black spray paint for the frame. As for the board and rear wheel, a bright pink fluorescent paint was used here. It was this color that most of all went to the liking of the author's daughter.

That's all, now the scooter is ready for testing.

How far can a person travel by pushing off the ground once? If this is one step, then on average it is less than meters. If you run up and push off harder, you can make a jump of four or five meters. Therefore, imagine our surprise when a modest, already middle-aged man appeared in the editorial office and declared that he could move 50 meters from one push of his foot, and even with a load of 30 kg. In the hands of the visitor was some kind of strange cart. We, understandably, doubted.

When in doubt, they demanded proof.

Well, please, - the owner of a strange cart told us. - Let's go outside. Here, on the pavement, we are convinced that we are not being deceived.

Upon closer inspection, the "trolley" turned out to be a converted children's scooter. Our guest, engineer Sergei Stanislavovich Lundovsky, managed to turn it into an unusual vehicle for adults.

How did you manage to “grow up” the scooter how? What is the essence of his alteration? First of all, in the maximum allowable lowering of the platform on which the “driver” stands. The ground clearance of the converted scooter when loaded is only 30 mm. But this, as practice has shown, is quite enough for driving not only on smooth asphalt, but also on country paths. Hitting the bottom of the bumps in the road, the scooter simply slips forward. And if there is a larger obstacle, the driver can help his car by jerking the steering wheel up and thus raising the front wheel.

The lowering of the platform lowered the center of gravity of the machine, which had a positive effect on its stability and made it easy to reach the ground with the "jogging" leg, without bending the supporting leg at the knee. And thanks to this, the driver gets tired much less than when using a scooter with a standard (high) platform.

The car is made on the basis of the Orlik children's sports roller (cost 14 rubles). As shown in the picture, the fork legs leading to the rear wheel and the front of the roller have been cut off. From a steel corner 20X20X5 mm, a new platform was made according to the size of the boot; in the drawing, its length is 320 mm, which is the most advantageous. The front part of the factory sportroller is connected to the platform with a clamp welded to the pipe and four M8 bolts. A plate with a thickness of about 20 mm is placed under the legs of the clamp, with the help of which the slope of the platform, which is most convenient for the driver, can be found.

The length of the steering tube should be increased in such a way that the driver can comfortably control the machine without bending.

The rear wheel fork is made from the same corner as the platform itself.

As a trunk, which is best placed above the front wheel, a stamped bicycle luggage frame is used. It is attached to the head of the steering column and to the front axle. It is impossible to put the trunk at the back, as the load makes it difficult to move the pushing leg.

Start learning to ride a roller skate on a flat, non-sloping asphalt site. The main attention is paid to working out a long and strong, but not sharp push with the foot, as well as mastering the movement with inertia. In this case, the steering wheel must be completely motionless, otherwise (due to increased resistance) the speed drops rapidly.

In training, it is quickly determined which leg is the most efficient as a support leg and which one as a push leg.

S. LUNDOVSKII, engineer