Connection diagrams for heating radiators in a private house - installation norms and rules. Rules for installing heating radiators Installing heating radiators with your own

13.11.2019

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Before you start installing a heating radiator with your own hands, you should carefully prepare everything you need for this work in order to please the end result.

The smallest unaccounted detail during operation heating structure may turn in the future big problems up to an emergency.

Therefore, the installation of heating radiators in an apartment building should be carried out by housing and communal services workers (plumbers). In his own house, the owner himself decides whether to use the services of professionals or do the installation himself. True, in order to avoid repairing the premises after a hot stream causes serious damage, the property owner should familiarize himself with the information regarding the rules and nuances of installing radiators (read also: "").

Preparing to install heating radiators with your own hands

First of all, the owner needs to deal with the type of wiring, which was once used in the arrangement of the heat supply structure. If the owner of a suburban household created it with his own hands, he knows which heating circuit is installed in the house - one-pipe or two-pipe. From the wiring diagram and design features equipment largely depends on the choice of system elements and their number.

Parts required for correct installation

The parts that are required for installing batteries with your own hands are bought based on the characteristics of the heat supply system. For example, if the radiator is used in single-pipe heating, then a bypass is needed. Thanks to this element, in case of need for repairs or, the heating in the room does not need to be turned off. This point is very important, since it is undesirable to cut off the heat supply at home during the winter cold.

The installation scheme for heating radiators and the type of heater determine how many connecting and other functional parts you need to purchase in order to install correctly (read also: ""). According to the design and dimensions of the batteries, elements such as nipples, angles, couplings, adapters are selected. Shut-off valves are also required.

Experts recommend purchasing radiator-type valves and not giving preference to complex ball valves with the so-called "American", since their installation requires professional skills. Without experience, it will be quite problematic for the contractor to ensure the tightness of the joints.

When a do-it-yourself heating radiator is being installed, in order to connect it to the pipeline, you need spurs that have a thread that matches the pipes. A sleeve is also screwed onto the drives, which is then twisted and inserted into the battery. With the help of the sleeves shown in the photo, it is easier to connect the radiator to the circuit and there is no need to use welding to connect the joints between the inlet and the pipeline.

If you plan to perform, first of all, you should make sure that the brackets included in the kit correspond to the material from which the walls of the room are built.

The rules for installing heating radiators regulate that it is necessary to remove the air that has got there from the device, and for this it is usually equipped with a Mayevsky crane. As a rule, it is included in the factory package, otherwise it must be purchased.

There are strict rules on how to install a heating radiator:

the supply pipeline to the heaters should be placed with a slope of 0.5 cm per one meter of the pipe in the direction of the coolant circulation. The angle of inclination is calculated taking into account the length of the mounted pipe sections;
the distance from the plane of the floor covering to the radiator cannot be less than 6-10 centimeters;
it is required to observe the gap between the lower part of the window sill and the upper line of the battery, equal to 5-10 centimeters:
the distance between the wall surface and the radiator should be 3-5 centimeters.

Among the mandatory conditions for the installation of devices is the exact observance of horizontal and vertical directions. Batteries in the same room are usually installed at the same level. To increase the efficiency of heat transfer by a radiator, a heat-reflecting shield made of a special material is placed on the wall located behind it. It is possible to coat the surface of the wall with a composition having similar properties.

Marking batteries with mounts: rules

Proper installation of a heating battery with your own hands involves the initial design of the heating structure and the performance of appropriate calculations, including, among other things, determining the number of battery sections required to heat the building. According to the installation rules, one "square" of the area of \u200b\u200bthe heating surface of the device is required for mounting one bracket (read also: ""). This fastener can be easily made by a home master on his own.

Before you properly install the heating radiator, you must perform the following work:

taking into account the above rules, mark the attachment points of the brackets;
before drilling holes, once again check the correctness of the markup;
dowels are inserted into the prepared holes and fasteners are screwed in.

With correctly made markings, the radiator will fit snugly on the installed supports, firmly leaning on them. Then you should connect the device to the elements communication system(more details: "").

Tools and materials

The performer of work on the self-assembly of heating batteries must have torque wrenches with him, having dimensions that allow you to observe the torque moment with a high degree of accuracy. Since the fluid circulates through the system under considerable pressure, poor sealing results in leaks in the form of a jet beating from the junction. In the case of excessive tightening, the likelihood of a similar problem is high.

For this reason, the manufacturer's instructions for the instrument must be strictly followed, as they contain torque values. You will also need a sealant, tow, impregnated oil paint. You can use a special sealing tape.

Installation work: scheme

Before starting work, the heating circuit is completely blocked, the coolant is drained from the system. Residual liquid helps to remove circulation pump. Using a level, check the battery hung on the fasteners relative to the horizontal and vertical positions.

Then:

all plugs are unscrewed from the radiator;
if the heating circuit is single-pipe, proceed to connect the bypass equipped with a valve. With a two-pipe scheme correct installation heating radiators does not provide for the use of a bypass, but for connection they use a drive with a valve attached to it.

The battery is connected to the heating structure using threaded rods. Joints are sealed with tow or other sealant. If they have skills, they use welding at the junction of the spurs and the pipeline. Until the work on the installation of aluminum, steel and bimetallic radiators is completed, the factory packaging shell is not removed from them. See also: "".

After the installation is completed, the system still needs to be pressure tested. Such events should be done by plumbers, since they have experience and they have an apparatus that it makes no sense to purchase to install a pair of batteries.

Ways to install radiators

Methods for installing heating radiators depend on the layout of these devices and are as follows:

one-way connection;
diagonal;
bottom.

Features of the installation of cast iron radiators

In spite of the latest appliances, providing space heating, such as ultra-light and aesthetic bi-metal and aluminum products, cast iron radiators are still in demand among property owners. And although cast iron products do not have an exquisite design, the batteries remain hot for a long time, gradually transferring heat to the surrounding space.

There are specific design features of the cast-iron appliance that must be considered when installing them:

the battery must be unscrewed before installation, then the nipples must be adjusted and the device reassembled. For disassembly, you will need a workbench, a pair of radiator keys, which are suitable for the configuration of the nipple holes. To unscrew the lower nipple, it is necessary to insert a crowbar into the eye of the key and thereby increase the applied force. To avoid distortion, both nipples (upper and lower) should be unscrewed at the same time, so it is advisable to do the work together. The following point is important: on opposite sides of the cast iron product, the thread has the opposite direction. Then they remove the section;
in a similar way, it is required to unscrew all sections and then, in reverse order, connect them into a single radiator, based on the need for heating a particular room. The assembled battery, consisting of a certain number of sections, must be pressed. If a leak is detected in the device, the nipple located in the problem area should be adjusted;
wall-mounted models of cast-iron radiators can only be mounted on brick or foam concrete walls. Wooden building envelopes will not support their weight, so the owner of such a house needs to purchase batteries with floor supports, but there should also be fixtures on the walls that support appliances (read also: "");
because usually in own houses, as a rule, heating is single-pipe, installation of a bypass is obligatory. The scheme must also contain the necessary shut-off valves and the Mayevsky crane;
the installation height of cast iron radiators above the floor cannot exceed 12 centimeters from the level of the finished floor covering to the bottom edge heating appliances;
to attach such batteries, threaded slings are used.

As is clear from the information given in the article, there is nothing complicated in the technology of mounting radiators. Knowing the rules for creating a heating structure and following the sequence of actions, each home craftsman can do this work on his own. Particular attention should be paid to tightness, which can ensure the absence of leaks.

Correct installation of the radiator with your own hands on the video:

One of the many advantages of individual private housing is a heating network that is not tied to CHPPs or boiler houses, does not depend on the start and end dates of the general heating season, and does not experience all the delights of intermittent pressure in the network. heating installation is carried out at the request of the owner. He also decides which radiators are best for installation in a private house.

Choosing a radiator design

The parameters of the local heating system are an important characteristic when choosing heating. The private house system has the following advantages:

operated under favorable conditions and low pressure;
the quality of the coolant is much better than in multi-storey building systems;
there are no pressure surges, there is no threat of water hammer.

With such characteristics, the choice of radiator models is quite wide. When buying batteries, it is worth emphasizing a high efficiency with the right ratio of price and quality. For home system suitable for devices made of any material.

Consider different battery designs:

Panel and sectional radiators are often the most inexpensive. With good heat dissipation, they have a compact size. Can be mounted in the heating system according to different connection schemes.

Tubular batteries are more expensive than previous options, but technical specifications approximately the same. The higher price is due to more stylish design. They are also handy for drying clothes.

Varieties of radiators according to the material of manufacture

Various batteries are suitable for installation in the private sector. Consider the features of each type.

Aluminum

Widespread use in private homes. They have a stylish modern design, as well as a good thermal power. They heat up quickly when plugged in and cool down quickly when disconnected. The price range is different and depends on the manufacturer. The most expensive and high quality are made by companies in Italy. Russian counterparts are slightly inferior in operation. Their cost is much lower.

Cast iron

Such radiators are resistant to wear and corrosion, since the inner surface is covered with a composition that prevents the destruction of batteries from contact with water. Can withstand high temperatures and pressure surges in the system. They heat up for a long time and give off heat for a long time when turned off. Such devices require annual cleaning.

Bimetallic

They successfully combine such qualities as: the strength of cast iron and the spectacular heat dissipation of aluminum. They have good resistance to pressure surges, are not subject to corrosion. Like aluminum counterparts, they are in demand due to their characteristics, but the high price often scares off buyers.

Steel

Such radiators are characterized by high heat transfer and original design. Stainless steel models are expensive. Cheaper designs are prone to corrosion.

Where are radiators installed?

Choosing a place in a private house for installing radiators, you need to proceed from the presence of windows. In ordinary rooms, batteries are usually placed under the windowsill.

Otherwise, the flow of cold air will descend along the wall and spread over the entire surface of the floor. An obstacle to this will be the installation of radiators below the window sills. For better protection from the cold, according to the norms of SNIPA, the battery should occupy at least 70% of the width of the window.

Important! A powerful radiator of the wrong size will not give the desired level of heating of the room. Cold air will "drain" to the floor on the side of the battery. Condensation may form on the walls where warm and cold flows come into contact. This will lead to dampness. And the windows themselves will fog up.

When installing the battery under the window, make sure that the window sill does not completely cover the radiator. This can reduce the density of the going warm air and reduce its effectiveness. With hot radiators and the presence of small children, you can cover the heating devices with special screens.

For private houses located in areas with a cold climate, radiators are mounted next to the door. The place is chosen closer to the entrance. Access to radiators must always be free.

Wiring diagrams

The method of installing heating radiators in a private house depends on: the effectiveness of the entire structure, possible losses heat energy.

The following schemes for connecting pipes and batteries will be more successful:

Diagonal pattern. It is considered the most efficient option with maximum efficiency. The coolant is supplied from the upper pipe on one side of the battery, and the return is located at the bottom on the other. The scheme got its name because of the diagonal arrangement of the connection points. In this case, the coolant is more evenly distributed, moving from top to bottom, filling the entire cavity of the radiator.
One-sided or side scheme. With this option, the branch pipe with the coolant supply is located at the top, and with the return from below, and only on one side of the radiator. Heat is not always distributed evenly, the first few sections are hotter. This scheme works well in private homes with a small area. But it is possible to increase the effectiveness of such a connection if you install a circular pump.
Lower and saddle schemes. Such methods are convenient for pipes hidden under skirting boards. In the first connection option, the input and output occurs at one point. With a saddle connection, the inlet and outlet pipes are located below from different sides of the battery. With external aesthetics of these methods, they have a fairly large percentage of heat loss (almost 15%).

We select the necessary components

For the upcoming work, it is necessary to prepare tools. From the shut-off and connecting fittings we purchase taps, valves, valves, thermostats. For installation, adapters are needed to connect parts of different diameters: couplings, spurs. To fix the devices on the wall, brackets and corners are bought. Bypasses are also required (jumpers in the form of pipe sections), which are installed between two pipeline lines. It is necessary to check in advance the presence of all elements in the composition, so that during installation it is not necessary to search for missing parts.

When installing batteries, the possibility of hiding the pipes of the heating system under wall coverings is also taken into account. If there is lining decorative plastic or drywall, then packing the load-bearing parts of the heating system in them will increase the aesthetic appearance of the room. The ends of the pipes with existing threads are brought out. This is done so that during subsequent installations of radiators it is not necessary to spoil the wall covering. The necessary parts for installation are selected taking into account the diameter of the thread.

Modern methods of connecting pipes include both welding and threaded assembly. Both options do not affect battery life or warm-up levels, but they differ in several ways. For example, welding seams are more reliable, while threads are afraid of mechanical loads and vibrations. In addition, in old houses it is often impossible to make threads on pipes. The way out is welding.

But in new houses they put pipes from modern materials, such as: polypropylene, metal-plastic. Welding is no longer used to connect them.

Marking the wall for brackets

When mounted in a private house heating system with natural circulation, pipelines are located at an angle of at least 6 ° to the direction in which the coolant flows. Failure to do so may result in air bubbles and air pockets.

We apply markings to the location of the future radiator for installing holders.

Do not forget! The radiator must not be hung close to the wall. The efficiency of such an installation will be low. There should be a space of 5-10 cm between the surfaces. The battery is mounted from the floor at a distance of 10-12 cm and from the window sill - 8-10 cm.

Marking for the future heating device is carried out strictly according to the level. With a pencil, mark the location of the brackets. They are mounted in such a way as to be in the gaps between the sections of the radiator. And we select the brackets themselves in accordance with the purchased batteries, their weight and dimensions.

Having marked the necessary points, holes of the required diameter are drilled for fastenings. It remains to fix the dowels with a hammer and fix the brackets with self-tapping screws. There are special battery mounts that are threaded and screwed directly into the dowel.

How many brackets do you need for a particular battery? The seller in the store can help with this question. building materials. Usually, 3 mounts are purchased for a device in six sections: two are installed at the top, one at the bottom.

To reduce heat loss, a layer of foil or a thin heat insulator with a foil surface is fixed on the wall. But between it and the radiator, it is imperative to leave a gap of at least 2-3 cm. Such a simple design will make the heat transfer from the heater somewhat more efficient.

Calculation of the required radiator power

Having chosen the brand of batteries, it is worth calculating the power for specific rooms. There are complex formulas by which you can calculate how much heat energy is required to heat the area of a particular room. But you can estimate approximately: for heating 1 m³ modern home need 20 watts. Having calculated the volume of the room, we multiply the obtained value by 20 and divide by the power of one section of the battery. What happened in the end is the required number of sections in a particular room. If there are old windows on wooden frames, 15% is added to the indicator.

To replace and install all radiators, the heating system is completely blocked both in a private house and in an apartment building. The water remaining in the pipes is drained. And its residues are pumped out with a pump.

Radiator Assembly

Before mounting the radiator, it must be assembled. We disconnect the part with a threaded connection and wrap this place with winding. For this, tow with oil paint or more is used. modern version- sealing paste that can withstand high temperatures. A special fum tape is also used to help seal the pipe joints.

Before winding on the thread, apply a wide layer of paste and distribute the composition at the junction. A prepared strip of tow is wrapped around the pipe in the direction of the thread.

Next, we put on the nut from the tap on the part with tow and carefully screw the entire structure into the battery plug. We do this first by hand, and then we tighten it with a key. In the same way, we mount Mayevsky's taps and plugs on inactive pipes.

Advice! Instead of windings from tow, you can use standard gaskets.

Mounting and installation

We will draw up a step-by-step plan for all work on installing batteries in a private house.

Marking and installation of fasteners.
Mounting of all components on the battery.
Mandatory installation of an air vent. He can be like automatic type as well as with manual adjustment. This device is screwed into the adapter and installed opposite the place where the pipe with the coolant supply is connected.
If the diameters of the water supply and discharge pipes do not match with the radiator pipes, adapters are used. They are included in the standard connection kit.
Installation of regulating and locking devices. Experts advise that it is imperative to install ball valves that help block the flow of coolant to a specific radiator in case it is repaired without stopping the entire system.
Mounting radiators on brackets.
Connection of pipes with the supply and removal of coolant to the radiator, depending on the selected scheme. The choice of method (using welding, threading, crimping) depends on the material of the pipes and the fittings used.
Checking the flow of coolant into the system or pressure testing. To turn on the supply of coolant to the heating system of a private house, the valves must be opened slowly. Sharp jerks and a full turn of the tap will lead to the destruction of the heating system, rupture of the connecting fittings.

Do not forget! Radiators are sold in packaging film. Do not remove it during installation until the end. installation work. Then you do not have to clean the batteries from contamination. Only the joints with pipes are released from the film.

In order for the house to be warm, it is necessary to correctly install the heating system. At the same time, it is important not only to qualitatively implement the necessary set of works, but also to correctly connect all the heating elements. It is necessary to take into account the current standards for the number of heating elements for a certain area. If you wish, you can do everything with your own hands.

Is assembly required?

If the radiators are supplied assembled, it is enough to install the plugs and the Mayevsky crane. Most models have four holes located at the four corners of the case. They are used to connect heating lines. In this case, any scheme can be implemented.

Before the installation of the system begins, it is necessary to close the extra holes using special plugs or air vent valves. The batteries are supplied with adapters that must be screwed into the manifolds of the product. Various communications should be connected to these adapters in the future.

prefabricated models

Assembling the batteries should begin with laying the entire product or its sections on a flat surface. Best on the floor. Before this stage, it is worth deciding how many sections will be installed. There are rules that allow you to determine the optimal amount.

The sections are connected using nipples having two external threads: right and left, as well as a turnkey ledge. The nipples should be screwed into two blocks: top and bottom.

When assembling the radiator, be sure to use the gaskets supplied with the product.

It is necessary to ensure that the upper edges of the sections are correctly located - in the same plane. The tolerance is 3 mm.

Features of installation of various types

The material from which a particular heating element is made imposes certain requirements on its installation. If cast iron is not afraid of serious mechanical stress, then others require special care.

Cast iron classic

Cast iron radiators are still relevant. The special characteristics of the material used in their manufacture make it possible to effectively heat a room of any area due to slow cooling.

To install such a heating element correctly, before connecting, you should:

take apart ready product on the section;
stretching all the nipples, assemble the product in reverse order.

When performing installation work, it is worth considering the weight of the product and the composition of the material from which the house was built. The heating element can only be mounted on brick and concrete walls. Installing the battery near a drywall wall is done on a floor stand.

Modern models

Such products are characterized by low weight and increased fragility. For them, it is necessary to provide a Mayevsky crane.

In the process of performing installation work, do not remove the packaging to prevent deformation of the surface.

How will we connect?

The scheme for connecting radiators can be different. The level of heat transfer and the comfort of being in the apartment depend on which option will be preferred. Incorrectly selected wiring can reduce the power of the heating system by 50%.

Lateral

The most widespread is the one-sided side scheme, which has the highest heat transfer rate. In this case, the pipe supplying the coolant is connected to the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe to the lower one.

If you do the opposite, the efficiency of space heating will decrease by almost 7%. To connect multi-section radiators, such a scheme is not always justified, since insufficient heating of the last sections is possible. This can be avoided by installing a water flow extension.

lower

In an apartment with pipes hidden in the floor or passing under the plinth, a bottom connection is used.

This is the most aesthetic option, in which the pipes for supplying and discharging the coolant are located below in the floor, and therefore the lower holes are used for connection.

Diagonal

Installation of batteries with twelve or more sections is carried out in a diagonal pattern.

The coolant is supplied through the upper branch pipe located on one side of the radiator, and is discharged through the lower one on the other side.

Sequential

Such a connection scheme assumes the presence in the heating system of pressure sufficient for the movement of the coolant through the pipes.

In this case, it is worthwhile to provide for a Mayevsky crane, designed to remove excess air.

It is important to remember that the implementation of repair and maintenance work will be accompanied by the shutdown of the entire heating system.

Parallel

Parallel wiring assumes the presence of a special heat pipe built into the heating system, through which the coolant is supplied and discharged outside.

The presence of special taps at the inlet and outlet makes it possible to replace individual radiators without turning off the heat supply. However, the scheme can cause insufficient heating of the pipes at reduced pressure in the system.

Work sequence

Installation of batteries begins with a complete overlap of the circuit. When replacing old radiators with new ones, water is drained and the heating elements are dismantled. It will be correct to use the pump to exclude the presence of coolant residues in the system.

After all the water has been removed, the battery attachment points are aligned in both planes. Brackets are installed.

Package

The next step will be the packaging of radiators using sealing linen, packaging paste or special stop valves. Using a torque wrench, tighten the connection, creating the force specified in the documentation.

Installation work

Installation of radiators on the wall is carried out by welding or polypropylene pipes. In the first case, it is enough to use two fasteners; in the second, at least three are required. Two should be at the top, one at the bottom.

With ten or more sections, the number of fasteners should be increased to five. There should be three at the top, two at the bottom.

Spatial control

The battery position is monitored in both planes. It is advisable to provide a slight slope towards the wall. This will avoid airing the system during its operation.

The final stage

Threading is performed on the risers and the connection of all elements of the heating system. The tightness of all connections is carefully controlled.

After that, trial tests can be carried out in order to detect a possible leak.

Tests

If until now everything has been done by hand, at this stage it is better to invite a ZHREU locksmith. By shutting off the "American" taps, you can open the connecting tap. It is better to entrust the opening of the return pipe to a locksmith.

If there are no leaks at the connection points, it will be possible to open the valve on the batteries and close the bypass valve. The coolant will begin to flow into the heating system. To bleed air, you should use the Mayevsky crane.

As soon as the heating circuit in all rooms warms up, the locksmith will open the straight pipe. This will restore pressure to the system. We can assume that the control tests are completed. If the installation was done correctly, the apartment will be comfortable at minimal cost.

The construction of a new house or the restoration of an old building involves the modernization of the heating system, which includes all types of work. Among them - drafting a project, selecting a scheme for connecting radiators, arranging pipelines, choosing the type of batteries. The key to providing high-quality home heating is the installation of heating radiators. To master the installation technology, you should read the instruction manual, study the detailed step by step instructions and use the experience of practitioners in the work.

Choosing the option of connecting devices to pipes, they strive to ensure the greatest heating efficiency. Connection is most often carried out in three ways.

1. Side - the most common, allows you to achieve the greatest heat transfer, optimal for small radiators. The system looks like this: in the upper part, the battery is connected to the inlet pipe, and in the lower part (on the same side) - to the outlet pipe. If the coolant is supplied from below, it loses power. Even a non-specialist can easily do the job; this method does not require a lot of materials.

2. Bottom. The inlet and outlet pipes are located below and are connected to the main pipe, hidden under the floor or baseboard. Installation diagram with bottom connection has a significant disadvantage: a decrease in thermal efficiency by 5-15% compared to the side option. However, long radiators with a bottom connection heat up better than those with a side connection. And one more undesirable moment: when a pipe breaks, you have to remove flooring, the downstairs apartment may suffer from leakage.

3. Diagonal. Water enters through the top outlet on one side and exits through the bottom outlet on the opposite side. The most successful place for a diagonal connection is private house with autonomous heating, in which the coolant circulates at a low speed.

If there are more than 12 sections in the devices, their diagonal connection is recommended (including if the installation site is an apartment). In systems with side connection, the coolant, even under high pressure, cannot pass through the multi-section radiator, maintaining the temperature.

Varieties

Before the installation technology of heating devices is described, it is worth studying their features. For each type, there are preferred connection options.

Cast iron.

Among their advantages is the resistance of the material to wear, corrosion, high temperatures and water pressure. The cast iron battery heats up for a long time and stays hot for just as long. The downside is the need for an annual Maintenance- painting and washing. Cast iron unit is built into the heating system different ways.

Steel.

They have a high heat transfer coefficient, original design, are not clogged with suspensions from the coolant. Disadvantages: susceptibility to corrosion (if made of carbon steel) or high cost (made of stainless steel). The steel panel battery is connected by the side method, there are lower options. If the device is sectional, side mounting is preferable.

Aluminum.

They have the highest heat dissipation, attract modern design. Mounting aluminum radiators recommended for autonomous heating in a small private house. In this case, it is necessary to control the composition of water and pressure in the system. Most often, a diagonal connection is used: due to it, the aluminum unit works more efficiently. There are also models designed for bottom connection.

Bimetallic.

They successfully combine the strength of cast iron and the thermal efficiency of aluminum, resistant to corrosion and pressure drops. Installation of bimetallic radiators is possible both in the house and in the apartment. Wide the lineup includes panel and tubular products. It is possible to choose units of various execution: standard, low, vertically located. Almost every model is designed to connect in different ways. The bimetal radiator has 4 connecting points: two at the bottom and two at the top.

Having decided on the type of radiator, a simple calculation of the number of heaters is performed separately for each room. On average, 1 kW of thermal energy is needed per 10 m2 of room area (no more than 3 m high). By dividing the total amount of energy by the power of the radiator, their number is determined. Power information is contained in the product manual.

List of requirements

The norms and rules for piping in force in Russia require strict adherence to a number of technical and construction regulations.

1. Installation is carried out in areas of the room with maximum heat loss. Usually such a place is the gaps between the windows and the floor.

2. The battery must be in a certain position. It is removed at least 100 mm from the window sill, 30 mm from the wall and 60 mm from the floor. The specified distances take into account the specifics of the distribution of heated air.

3. Connection of radiators to the general network is carried out according to a certain scheme, depending on the type of devices and the characteristics of the heating system.

4. Reliability of fastening to the wall is ensured by installing radiators on three brackets. Their arrangement is as follows: one fastener is located at the bottom and two at the top. Brackets are mounted using dowels and mortar.

5. At the top of each section, a valve is connected to bleed air from the system. It can be manual or automatic.

6. After the installation is completed, open the stopcocks. Do this gradually, without jerking, to prevent water hammer.

Step-by-step instruction

The installation of each type of radiator has its own characteristics, but a few general recommendations should be followed. In order for the installation to take place without errors on your own, for a start, the manual that each unit has is carefully studied. At the time of buying Supplies, fittings and accessories check their quality. In the process of connecting radiators, all connections are made absolutely tight.

Before starting the installation with your own hands, prepare a universal and special tool:

impact drill;
screwdriver;
building level;
pliers;
drills with victorious soldering;
pencil, tape measure;
torque wrench for tightening pipes.

The technology for installing heating batteries is divided into several stages.

1. A strapping scheme is being designed. This procedure is best entrusted to a heating engineer. He draws up a list of purchased products, without which it is impossible to mount a radiator with your own hands.

2. Choice of materials. If the apartment is central heating, piping of heating batteries is carried out using steel pipes and shut-off valves - this will prevent the fittings from breaking off when high pressure in system. In a private house you can buy metal-plastic materials.

If the scheme developed by the designer requires that an American ball valve be used during installation, you should know that only a specialist can make its hermetic connection. Doing the installation of batteries with your own hands, they put a conventional radiator valve.

3. Overlap. If one new battery is installed, the water is shut off in front of and behind it. When all heating batteries are replaced, the system is completely blocked - regardless of whether it is a private house or an apartment. The water is drained, the residues are pumped out.

4. Prepare the wall. It is necessary to level it with plaster and putty. Before the installation of fasteners begins, marking, punching holes with a puncher, and installing dowels are carried out.

5. Fixings. The wall-mounted device is hung on brackets. At the same time, light wall partitions are drilled through, performing the installation of fasteners on the other side. The floor battery is placed on a special stand.

6. Preparation of heating radiators. The cast-iron battery is pre-disassembled, after which the nipples are tightened. The aluminum or bimetallic unit is not removed from the package until the installation work is completed.

7. Assembly. The devices are equipped with taps with detachable connections, a Mayevsky tap for bleeding air, radiator plugs and plugs, and thermostats. In order for the battery to be securely fastened with all the elements, the joints are sealed with tow.

It should be noted that bimetal radiator never assembled with sandpaper and a file to avoid leakage.

8. Installation of radiators on brackets. When the battery is suspended, its vertical and horizontal position is controlled by building level. If at the end of the season it is planned to drain the water from the system, the radiator is placed with a slight deviation from the horizontal towards the pipe. This will completely remove the water to keep the battery dry.

9. Connection. Plugs are unscrewed from the batteries. If the design is single-pipe, a pre-prepared bypass is connected - so that, if necessary, the device can be cut off. With a two-pipe heating system, the battery is connected to the pipe with the help of a squeegee, to which the valve is screwed. The fastening points are again sealed with tow.

10. Hydrotesting. The technology provides for checking the tightness of the joints and their performance at the design working pressure and during water hammers. The second name of the test operation is pressure testing of heating batteries. It is quite difficult to do it yourself - it is better to invite a plumber with special equipment.

Turnkey cost

To heat a house or apartment as efficiently as possible, with a minimum likelihood of failures and breakdowns, it makes sense to entrust the work to experienced professionals. It consists of several stages:

departure for a preliminary assessment;
project development;
choice of equipment;
installation of radiators, if necessary - their testing, launch.

The price of work for each customer is determined individually, it depends on the complexity of the project, the number of devices and their design features. In order to preliminarily calculate how much it will cost to install a heating system, you need to find out what the price is for one point - it means the complex cost of installation services. On average, this figure in Moscow is 2500 rubles. total cost turnkey from different performers is significantly different. To get the expected result, you should draw up an agreement with the company, constantly monitor the process and quality.

The efficiency of the heating system of an apartment or a private house depends not only on the power of heat sources. Proper installation of heating radiators will reduce the cost of heating the room, make it more productive and improve the microclimate.

Regardless of which system you use, either autonomous or centralized, where the radiator will be located - in an apartment or house, the rules for installing heating batteries are the same. There are three options for the location of radiators:

Types of heating systems

There are three options for radiator connection systems - serial, single-pipe, two-pipe and manifold (parallel). They differ in the wiring diagram. Depending on which system is installed, it is necessary to choose the type of batteries. It is important to remember that improper connection of heating radiators leads to a decrease.

Proper installation of heating radiators in a niche

It happens that in apartment buildings there is a niche for old cast-iron radiators. This method of installing radiators is ineffective, but sometimes there are no other options. So let's take a look at it.

Distance between side and back walls niches to the radiator must be at least 5 cm.
Air access from below should not be obstructed, as well as its exit from above. The distance from the bottom and top of the radiator to the walls must be more than 10 cm.

decorative grille should promote convection. Diagonal planks work best. The gap at the bottom of the radiator should not be closed with a grille to ensure optimal air convection.

If a niche is made in a parapet located along the wall, it upper part it is better to close it with a decorative grille, and not with a solid overlay.

The battery in the niche under the window should be located so that there is a distance to the window sill. It should be twice as far as the window sill protrudes from the wall. For example, if the window sill extends 15 cm beyond the wall, the distance from it to the niche should be 10 cm.

How to properly install the battery under the window

Most heat loss occurs through windows. Therefore, the correct installation of the battery under the window is especially important.

The radiator should be located exactly in the middle of the window - so it will cut off cold air and will not let it spread around the apartment.
The installation height of the radiator from the floor should be 5-10 cm. If the gap is larger, a layer of cold air will form. If less, it will be difficult to clean under the battery.
The distance from the wall must be at least 5 cm, so as not to impede air convection. Otherwise, the battery will heat the wall of the building, not the room.

If the radiator is equipped with air separators (see photo), the distance from it to the window sill should be more than 5 cm. If the window sill is wide and protrudes beyond the radiator, for every 1 cm of this difference, add 2 cm to the gap between it and the battery.

For radiators without an air breaker, the minimum distance to the window sill is 10 cm plus 3 cm for every 1 cm of protrusion. Installing heating radiators under the window close to the window sill will prevent air convection. And this will lead to a decrease in heat transfer.