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Do-it-yourself clapboard wall cladding - the right choice of material and methods of fastening. Features and technology of wall cladding with clapboard Process of fastening clapboard

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Wall and ceiling decoration is the final chord in any apartment renovation. The current market is replete with materials and technologies, and everyone chooses according to their taste. The walls in the bathroom and in the kitchen can be finished with such durable, practical and reliable material as tile, and for bedrooms and living rooms, the usual wallpaper or artistic wall painting is ideal.

Consider in the photo several popular and now popular methods. do-it-yourself wall decoration.

Drywall

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall decoration is good because this material has excellent sound insulation. The surface is smooth and even. It can be painted or wallpapered, which will lie on the walls easily and naturally. The only negative is that a lot of space is eaten up, since the drywall is quite thick. So only those who have very spacious and large housing can afford this type of wall with their own hands.

MDF and PVC panels

Do-it-yourself wall decoration (you can see photos and videos of the process in our article) using MDF panels - a good choice, because the panels are easy to install, and the material is environmentally friendly and inexpensive. PVC panels are even cheaper, but they lose in quality. But PVC panels are not very whimsical in operation. During cleaning, it will be enough just to run a wet cloth over them, and the surface will simply shine.

Decorative plaster

Decorative wall decoration with your own hands is possible with the help of special plaster. Decorative plaster looks very nice, especially if you show imagination. Using this material, you can achieve absolutely any texture, for example, the effect of finishing natural stone which, as you know, is not cheap. Especially popular is Venetian plaster, which can bring the luxury and beauty of Italy to your home.

Wood

Finishing, finishing the walls with your own hands using wood is a reference to traditional wooden houses. Wood helps us to feel the warmth and comfort created by this natural, environmentally friendly material that has a pleasant smell and maintains the humidity of the room at an optimal level. Life among the trees and in wooden house at the genetic level is perceived by us as an extremely favorable factor. Today, even the walls in a city apartment can imitate a real wooden house.

Dye

This, on the one hand, is the simplest, and, on the other hand, the most unusual and original do-it-yourself wall decoration, which is ideal for artists, designers, creative people and children. With the help of paints, you can decorate your walls the way you want. Painted walls are easy to clean and wipe with a damp cloth during cleaning. Such a coating is less subject to wear than wallpaper.

Tile

Tiles are an ideal practical option for bathrooms, toilets and kitchens. Modern tiles are extremely diverse and color scheme both in texture and size. There are both the most budget options on the market, as well as very expensive and luxurious ones. The plate is easy to use. It can be purchased immediately with a drawing, or you can dream up and apply the drawing yourself using special technologies.

Such a popular material as lining can be used for cladding walls and facades of private houses, balconies and loggias of city apartments. Also, such lamellas are often used for baths and gazebos. Of course, lining the walls with clapboard, including with your own hands, must be done correctly.

Main stages of work

In most cases, clapboard lining of surfaces from the side of the street involves the following operations:

    preliminary preparation of the walls;

    crate stuffing;

    installation of insulating material;

    installation of a waterproofing device;

    installation of the lamellas themselves.

It is in this sequence that it is worth doing the work for a home master who decides to finish the walls in a similar way.

When performing wall cladding from the inside of the room, instead of a waterproofing agent, a vapor barrier is mounted at the penultimate stage.

How to choose lamellas: appearance

In order to make wall cladding with clapboard with your own hands as efficiently as specialists do, you first need to choose the right material itself. For interior decoration inside buildings, in most cases, ordinary flat wooden lamellas are used. At the same time, boards of sufficiently high quality are most often used for sheathing enclosing structures. In any case, it's too much a large number there should be no knots in the lamellas of the lining intended for wall decoration.

Outside, the facades of buildings can also be sheathed with a simple flat clapboard. But very often, block house material is also used for stuffing from the side of the street. Walls sheathed with the use of such boards look like chopped. In particular, a block house is often used for finishing baths. When choosing such a material, you should also pay attention to its quality and the number of knots on the boards.

What other materials will be needed

In addition to the lining itself, timber must also be prepared for cladding facades and walls. From this material, the crate will subsequently be assembled. The beam for the frame under the lining should be chosen well dried. The moisture content of lumber in this case should not exceed 15%. will depend on how thick the insulation is supposed to be used for sheathing.

Among other things, to finish the walls with clapboard, you will also need slats of about 2.5-3 cm. Such lumber will be needed for the installation of a hydro- or vapor barrier.

You can insulate the house when used for lining the lining:

    mineral wool;

    polystyrene foam;

    foam.

As a waterproofing agent, when performing such work, a thick plastic film is most often used. Vapor barrier of enclosing structures when using boards for exterior finish usually performed using penofol. This modern material creates the effect of "thermos" in the premises and not only protects the insulation from getting wet, but also additionally retains heat.

Home craftsmen who decide to do the lining of the walls with a clapboard with their own hands, among other things, will need to choose the right fasteners. To finish baths, verandas, gazebos and facades of buildings from the side of the street with such a board, experts advise using only galvanized screws and nails. Such fasteners do not rust in high humidity. It is allowed to use conventional steel nails and self-tapping screws to finish clapboard surfaces from the side of dry rooms.

Varieties of lining

Lamellas of this type can be made from different types of wood. The choice of material in this case depends on the walls of the building for which purpose it is supposed to be sheathed. For baths, verandas and gazebos, as well as for the exterior decoration of residential buildings, they usually buy clapboard made of aspen or linden. Such materials are not afraid of moisture.

For gazebos, verandas and facades of houses, you can also use inexpensive pine lining if you wish. This type of material is also immune to moisture and tolerates low temperatures well. It is not recommended to use such lamellas for sheathing the bath from the inside. Pine, like any softwood, contains a lot of resin. At elevated temperatures, such boards begin to release ethereal vapors into the air in concentrations dangerous to human health. For a bath, as already mentioned, lining made of aspen or linden is best suited. From conifers only cedar can be used to decorate such premises.

Material price

Of course, many owners of private houses and apartments who decide to sheathe the walls with such boards are also interested in how much the lining costs. The answer to this question will depend on the quality of such material, as well as on what kind of wood it is made of. The price of lining depends on the region in which it is supposed to be purchased. In wooded areas, such boards will most likely cost less, in the steppe - more expensive.

The price of a pine budget board, for example, can be 200-250 rubles / m 2. The answer to the question of how much an aspen lining costs will be the amount of 350-450 rubles / m 2.

Wall preparation

Before proceeding with the sheathing of enclosing structures, they must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and stains of the fungus. The preparation of walls for lining, if they are assembled from logs or timber, also includes such a stage as surface treatment with antiseptic and fire-fighting compounds. from concrete or brick walls peeling plaster should be removed first.

Lathing installation

Elements of the frame for insulation by craftsmen who specialize in decorating facades and walls of rooms with wooden lamellas are usually mounted vertically. In the same way, home craftsmen should do the same when lining the walls with clapboard with their own hands. A horizontally located beam will subsequently prevent the moisture condensing on the vapor barrier from draining.

The elements of the crate are stuffed, sheathing the walls with wooden clapboard, with a step equal to the width of the selected insulation. The timber is attached to the concrete enclosing structures using dowels. To the wooden walls, the elements of the crate are nailed or screwed with self-tapping screws. The timber itself is necessarily treated with an antiseptic composition before installation. The frame is mounted on the walls using a plumb line or building level, avoiding distortions.

Insulation installation

The technology for performing work at the next stage will depend on what specific material is chosen to insulate the walls from the cold. Mineral wool between the bars of the crate is usually mounted without any additional fasteners. This material is flexible. Therefore, the plates can be installed between the bars of the frame by surprise. The elements of the crate when using mineral wool are usually placed at a distance of the width of the plates minus 2 cm.

Expanded polystyrene on the walls between the bars of the frame is fixed with glue. In this case, such a composition is applied to the middle and at the corners of the sheet. Additionally, expanded polystyrene on the enclosing structures is fixed with dowels-fungi (6 pcs per sheet).

Installing a hydro and vapor barrier

When finishing the walls with clapboard from the side of the street, the plastic film is mounted vertically on the lathing bars with an overlap of 15 cm and fastened to 3 cm rails. After installing the wooden lamellas themselves, in this case, an air gap will be created between them and the waterproofing. That is, the "pie" of the walls will later turn out to be ventilated, and therefore will last longer.

Penofol, when lining the walls inside the house with clapboard, is mounted using a slightly different technology. Strips of such material are fixed without overlap. At the same time, the joints are glued with foil masking tape.

How to nail a lining

The lamellas of the sheathing material themselves are subsequently attached to the bars of 3 cm of the counter-lattice. There are several ways to fix the lining. The easiest way, of course, is to stuff this material onto the frame using ordinary nails. But in this case, the lining in the future will not look too beautiful and neat.

This method is most often used only when finishing any outbuildings using not particularly high-quality lining. In this case, the plating work is performed as follows:

    the lamella is applied to the bars of the counter-lattice perpendicularly;

    at the junction of the lining and frame elements, two nails are driven in;

    the next lamella is mounted in the same way.

If desired, the nails in the boards can be recessed by 0.5 cm during stuffing. When using this technique, the walls upholstered with clapboard will look neater.

You can make putty to mask nails on boards yourself from small sawdust. Such material simply needs to be mixed in equal proportions with PVA glue. After such a putty hardens in the nests, the lining wood should be sanded with fine sandpaper until an absolutely even surface is obtained.

What are kleimers

Fasteners of this type look like a bracket with a hook and holes. The use of kleimers when lining with clapboard has the following advantages:

    ease of installation and dismantling of lining;

    long service life of lamellas;

    no need to use any tools other than a screwdriver.

Some disadvantage of kleimers, in comparison with nails, is only their rather high cost.

How to sheathe clapboard walls using kleimers

When using these fasteners:

    the lamella is pressed against the bars of the crate and markings are made;

    fasten the kleimers through the holes with self-tapping screws in the right place;

    lead the groove of the lamella along the entire length under the brackets of the kleimers.

In exactly the same way, when sheathing the wall, all other lining boards are attached. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the holes of the kleimers with a screwdriver.

Hidden way of sheathing using nails

On the walls, the easiest way is with the use of kleimers. However, as already mentioned, such fasteners are quite expensive. Meanwhile, you can neatly sheathe the walls with a board using ordinary nails. How to nail the lining in this case?

When using this technique, nails are driven into a tree by the sunk method. The slats are applied to the crate and fasteners are driven in with a hammer into their grooves at an angle. Having thus fixed the lamella, the next one is inserted into it and the nails are driven in again. Using this technology, the entire wall is sheathed.

What is worth knowing

Thus, we figured out how to sheathe the walls with clapboard correctly. In most cases, when finishing buildings, this material is attached to a vertical crate in a horizontal position. In addition to the rapid removal of condensate, this technology has another important advantage. The facades and walls of the premises in this case look somewhat more aesthetically pleasing.

When fixing the lining in a horizontal position, one very important rule should be observed. The crests of the lamellas on the wall after fixing should be located at the top, and the grooves should be at the bottom. When using this method of fastening, moisture will not accumulate in the gaps between the lining boards in the future. It is especially important to observe this rule for fastening lamellas in baths and on the street.

How to decorate boards

How to fix the lining on the wall is understandable. Nails or clamps can be used for this purpose.

Provided that such boards are properly fastened, they will look neat and beautiful on the walls. The lining on the enclosing structures inside and outside at the final stage in most cases is not painted. But to finish this material additionally, of course, it is necessary. Otherwise, the lamellas will soon begin to rot, swell, crack, etc.

In most cases, the lining at the final stage is finished using a wax or oil tonic. Such materials may have the most different shade. In any case, walls should be covered with such a product in one layer so as not to “hide” the texture of the wood.

Before finishing with wax or oil, it is advisable to sand the lining with sandpaper. This will make the lamellas smoother and their texture more noticeable. Very beautiful, according to many owners of country houses and apartments, looks like a lining trimmed with white tonic or red. To give the room a more original look, you can also use a cold shade unusual for wood - blue or purple.

Lining for the walls of the house as a sheathing material is just perfect. She looks really great. And with ordinary varnish, many owners of private low-rise buildings do not advise spoiling it. The lining covered with this material, unfortunately, does not look particularly presentable. A room designed in this way will most likely become similar to a utility room.

Complex sheathing scheme

In most cases, do-it-yourself clapboard wall decoration is carried out exactly according to the technology described above. But experienced craftsmen sometimes sheathe enclosing structures with material of this variety and using other technologies.

For example, lining can be attached to the crate not only horizontally or vertically. Sometimes when decorating walls with such material, a diagonal method of mounting boards is used. On the enclosing structures, in this case, an original “herringbone” or “rhombus” pattern is obtained. The main advantage of this method of mounting the lining is precisely the aesthetic unusual appearance walls. The disadvantage of this technology, in addition to the complexity of installation, is a large percentage of waste.

At the final stage, it is also desirable, of course, to coat the walls sheathed with clapboard using this technology with wax or oil for wood. In this way, you can emphasize the texture of the boards and significantly extend the life of the finish.

Hello. This article will be of interest to all those who want to make repairs in the house with minimal cost and with their own hands. From this material you can learn how to properly sheathe a wall with clapboard and what is needed for this.

What we need for successful wall cladding:

  1. Wooden lining (you can use lining from any tree, but the most popular, and which can be found in any hardware store, is pine).
  2. Rail (45 * 20 mm, but if necessary, it is possible to use another one, if necessary).
  3. Dowels for a stone house, and if your house is made of wood, then you need screws.
  4. Small carnations for example: 23 mm with which the lining is nailed to the rail.
  5. Hacksaw, or electric jigsaw.
  6. A hammer. For convenience, I advise you to take a small hammer.
  7. One nail 100 mm. What it is for, you will find out later.
  8. Any primer for wood.
  9. Lacquer (if you are sheathing a room, and not the facade of the house itself, then I advise you to take a water-based varnish, as it does not contain harmful substances and does not leave an unpleasant odor).

And also, if you need to insulate the wall, then you will need

  • Insulation.
  • Vapor barrier.
  • Construction stapler.
  • Staples.

First of all, you need to nail the rail to the work surface (to the wall). We do everything carefully and use the level. For better alignment, wooden pegs are hammered between the wall and the rail. Their size depends on the size of the hole that is formed between the wall and the rail. Here's what you get:

After you have screwed the rail on all the walls you need and leveled it, it's time to take on the insulation of the wall. The insulation must be cut to the size of the closets that formed after attaching the rail to the wall and nailed to the rail with a stapler, and a vapor barrier must be nailed along the top. Then make sure that everything fits snugly against each other, but rather overlaps. See as shown in the pictures.


When you have insulated the wall, you can take on the sheathing with wooden clapboard. Of course you can also use plastic. But as for me, wooden is better, if only because it is environmentally friendly and, upon completion of the robots, all waste can be disposed of without harm to the environment, which is very important. Plastic lining can be used for finishing the facade of the house and in rooms with high moisture. There it will be more durable than wood.

Right now I will tell you what a 100 mm nail is for. From it we will make a simple fixture for fastening the lining with carnations. To do this, you need to exactly saw off the sharp edge of the nail. And everything is ready, you should get something like this:


It is this device that can save you time on lining the lining and protect it from damage when a hammer strikes a carnation.

Beginning of sheathing

To do this, we measure, mark and cut the lining to size. Then we apply it to the wall, level it and nail it. If you have a gap between the lining and the floor or ceiling, it's okay, because at the end of the robots, you will nail the plinth that will close it. You need to nail the lining with a spike forward.

Nail it into the bottom spike that is at the back:


The next one should be connected like this

Check each new lining with a level. For greater strength, I advise you to nail the lining through the spike to each rail that you attached to the wall at the very beginning.

Finishing the walls

After you fix the entire lining, you can assume that you have done half the work. Why half? Because there is still a lot of work to be done.
So what else needs to be done?

The first step is to nail all the skirting boards and corners, and then sand the whole thing well with sandpaper.

The second step is to clean the entire work surface from dust for priming and further varnishing.

The third step is to treat everything well with a primer to protect the wood.

Fourth step - sand again. Since after priming the wood becomes rough, but this is easily corrected with fine sandpaper.

The fifth step is the longest, varnishing. Why is it the longest? At least due to the fact that you will have to varnish not in one layer, but at least two.

At the end, let the varnish dry and all the lining of the walls with clapboard can be considered complete.
This is what you should get as well:

This is how you can save a small amount, which you can use in the future at your discretion. Well, or spend on more expensive materials for your home.

Clapboard is a cladding decorative board made of wood. This wall surface finish is a beautiful and eco-friendly option for decorating the walls in your home.

Like any other wood product, this finishing material It has the ability to absorb moisture at an increased level of air humidity and give off excess moisture in dry weather.

Such qualities of this cladding option help to create favorable climatic conditions in the premises.

The advantages of this type of finish:

  • Ease of installation;
  • Long operational periods;
  • Resistance to decay processes;
  • Effective appearance;
  • Significant sound and heat insulating qualities;
  • The ability to hide defects in wall surfaces;
  • Under such a cladding, you can hide the electrical wiring and piping system.

In addition to lining made of wood, manufacturers make a plastic version (PVC lining).

The choice of lining type

The choice of material is determined based on the characteristics of the room, the wall surfaces of which will be sheathed with this cladding.

Rooms such as a balcony, a sanitary unit, a kitchen, that is, rooms with a high level of humidity, are usually sheathed with a plastic version.

For a bedroom, office, living room, hallway or corridor, wood panels are well suited.

It is also very important to choose the type of wood from which it is made. facing material.

For example, rooms with a high temperature regime, such as a bathhouse or a sauna, cannot be finished with pine boards, since they emit resins at high temperatures.

Plastic cladding is another option for cladding wall surfaces. This finishing material has a rich color range, is easy to care for and easy to install. However, plastic panels are not resistant to mechanical stress and are characterized by low environmental friendliness.

Preparatory work

Initially, this facing material must be prepared for installation.

To do this, it is covered with a special bioprotective compound designed to prevent the formation of mold, decay and other negative processes in wood. Also, the tree can be stained or azure to achieve the desired color.

After the facing material is processed, it must be dried and left in the room for 24 hours so that it “gets used” to the microclimate of the room and subsequently does not shrink or dry out.

The installation of the cladding is carried out on the frame (crate).

Frame rails can be purchased from ready-made or cut your own.

The crate is attached to the wall surface (step 50-60 cm) using screws or self-tapping screws.

The frame must be even, this parameter is measured using a plumb line or a wader.

Space is left between the wall surface and the sheathing, if necessary, the walls are insulated.

Sheathing and waterproofing

The intervals between the laths of the crate depend on the length of the board and the width of the insulation filler. The frame is fixed, starting from the edges and moving towards the center of the wall surface or to the openings of windows and doors.

The sheathed wall device looks like this:

  • Vapor barrier;
  • insulation layer;
  • Waterproofing;
  • Cladding with lining boards.

It is worth noting that waterproofing is a mandatory component of the structure, as it helps to minimize the risk of decay and the appearance of fungal organisms.

The waterproofing film is attached with the smooth side to the insulation, and with the rough side out.

Fastening methods: staples, nails, clamps

There are several methods for fastening such a cladding.

This finishing material can be attached to the frame with ordinary nails, kleimers, staplers, decorative screws. Whatever type of fastener you choose, the most important thing is to do the job very carefully and avoid damaging the skin.

Fastening with nails. If nails are expected to be visible, the facing is nailed to the frame with small-headed nails so that the fasteners are randomly scattered over the skin.

However, as a rule, a more aesthetic and complex method is used.

Nails are driven into the grooves of the skin in such a way that the fasteners are practically not noticeable.

Fastening with clamps. Kleimers are fixing grips made of galvanized sheet. They can be of different shapes and sizes, they are selected in each case according to the type of wooden boards and the thickness of their grooves.

The essence of the installation is that the teeth of the kleimers cut into the grooves of the panel, and on the other hand they are fixed on the frame with screws or nails.

Staple fastening. With this method of installation, the cladding is tightly sewn to the crate with staples using a special gun.

Fastening with decorative screws. Fairly simple and beautiful way fasteners, accessible even to non-professionals.

Mounting options

Directly finishing the walls begins after:

  • The material is completely dry;
  • The frame is ready;
  • Thermal and sound insulation is done;
  • Mounting method selected.

Before creating a frame for cladding, it is necessary to determine the direction of the cladding.

The cladding, mounted horizontally, visually expands the space, the vertical cladding visually “raises” the ceiling.

Horizontal trim

Fasten the finish from the ceiling surface to the floor in such a way that the grooves of the panels are directed downwards. So you can avoid the accumulation of excess moisture and various litter in the grooves of the skin and, as a result, eliminate destructive processes.

When this finishing material is installed horizontally by means of clamps, the fastener is mounted in the recess of the previous panel with nails or self-tapping screws, with which the wooden panel is attached to the frame.

For correct installation cladding every ten panels, the evenness of the structure should be checked using a plumb line or a wader wag.

Do-it-yourself lining installation

The last finishing panel is adjusted in width, nailed and covered with a plinth.

Vertical finish

This wall decoration starts from the corner. Kleimers are attached to the groove of the back wall of the wooden panel, with the help of which the lining boards are nailed to the frame. The first corner panel is fastened with nails (the decorative corner will hide the hats).

Vertical installation of lining is similar to horizontal - one panel is inserted into another.

The installation is completed by fastening the last panel with nails.

All joints, corners (internal and external) are masked with special decorative strips, skirting boards and corners.
Such cladding must be periodically (once every two or three years) treated with a special composition. So you can extend the operational properties of the skin.

Many buildings can be ennobled with such finishing materials as wooden lining.

The room, finished with wooden clapboard, creates a feeling of coziness, comfort and warmth.

Brick and stone houses are reliable, but cold in every sense of the word. A house lined with wooden clapboard both outside and inside becomes warm and seems completely wooden.

In addition, wood paneling is an environmentally friendly material, so a dwelling lined with such a lining will not only be beautiful, stylish and natural, but also safe for life and health.

Russians involved in construction are familiar with such a finishing material called "lining".

They are mainly used for decoration inside the house. What types of lining are used for this? How to properly finish this material inside the house with your own hands?

Features of lining as a finishing material

The clapboard is a thin sheathing board made from recycled wood.

Its name comes from a thin profiled board, which was sheathed inside the railroad cars. Modern lining is perfect for rooms inside a residential building, a balcony, a bathhouse, a sauna, an attic, etc.

Features and technology of wall cladding with clapboard

This finish will create a cozy and comfortable environment, pleasing to the eye.

The properties of this finishing material are as follows:

  1. Excellent soundproofing properties.
  2. Surface smoothness.
  3. Strength.
  4. Ease of installation, thanks to the technology of connecting the boards to each other - "thorn-groove".

These features depend on the constituent components from which the lining is made.

Types of lining

Specialists distinguish between several types of lining, depending on what this board is made of.

  1. The plastic board is made of polyvinyl chloride mass, which affects its functional features:
    • long period of operation;
    • moisture resistance;
    • tolerance of various temperature regimes (from -50 degrees to +50 degrees);
    • variety of colors.

But experts also note a small drawback of this type of finishing material: low mechanical strength.

  1. The wooden board is completely made of wooden edged boards, has a classification according to the profile: "Standard", "Calm", "Europrofile", "American".

    For this type of lining, wood species such as pine, spruce, linden, alder are used, the properties of which affect the characteristics of the finishing material.

  2. MDF lining, or fiberboard medium density It is made by pressing wood shavings, due to which this type of building material is distinguished by:
    • environmental friendliness;
    • hypoallergenicity;
    • light weight;
    • the possibility of styling marble, stone, granite, etc.

Do-it-yourself decoration inside the house can be made from any named type of lining.

See also: wooden house siding

Finishing the house inside with clapboard: technology

Specialists have developed a certain technology with the help of which the interior of the house is finished with clapboard. It is easy to perform and accessible to everyone, that is, such installation can be done independently with your own hands.

The first stage is “preparatory”: all surfaces inside the house intended for finishing work should be cleaned of excess dirt and dust.

It also includes alignment. So, what is the necessary tool to prepare:

  • building level;
  • dowel;
  • metal profile or wooden beam;
  • construction stapler;
  • wood screws;
  • perforator;
  • screwdriver;
  • sealant;
  • varnish or paint.

The second stage is “installation of the frame or crate”.

For the crate, experts recommend using either a metal profile or a wooden beam. In some houses, additional wall insulation may be needed, which is also carried out at this stage. For insulation, it is advisable to use foam sheets or solid mineral heaters.

Step by step for this step:

  1. Mark the surface.
  2. Install the first rails - in opposite corners.
  3. Position the ribs of the frame at the same distance - up to 50 centimeters.

The wooden frame will require additional treatment against rotting and mold.

The third stage is “the main or installation of lining”.

Your choice of boards mounted either vertically or horizontally. The main condition is the tight fastening of the finishing material to each other, that is, the spike must fall into the groove.

The fourth stage is the "finishing".

Inside the house, it is customary to cover a wooden board with varnish or paint with your own hands. This procedure will help ensure that the lining will take on a finished look.

Tips for decorating a house inside with a clapboard: how to do it yourself

If inside the house the room has high humidity, then the finishing should be done with plastic clapboard.

When installing a wooden crate, it must be treated with special primers, which will avoid damage in the event of moisture accumulation.

Each joint of the elements with each other must be treated with a sealant, especially inside the house with high humidity.

For plastic boards, construction glue or liquid nails are used. Remember that an air cushion is needed between the wall surface and the wooden plank. To hide the ends in the finish, you can adapt with your own hands decorative elements(for example, external and internal wooden corners).

If you are not confident in your abilities and a positive end result, seek the help of qualified builders who will help you carry out all the necessary finishing work inside the house.

Do-it-yourself clapboard lining (video and photo)

On the market building materials the tree firmly holds one of the leading positions.

Ecological cleanliness, strength, durability, ease of installation - all this attracts not only professionals, but also amateurs to make repairs with their own hands. There are many varieties of finishes: from wooden wallpaper to block house, from decorative panels to parquet. One of the most popular materials is lining. It is not only wooden, but also plastic. It is convenient to mount it everywhere: from walls to ceiling, as well as on the floor of the room. The work is simple, because. does not require preliminary alignment of the walls, equipped with docking grooves (the skin resembles the assembly of a designer, it will not be difficult to do the installation yourself).

Wooden lining is produced from edged boards.

From the side surfaces, a quarter (folding) or tongue and groove (grooving) is selected for better adhesion and laying of the coating.

Varieties

During installation, difficulties may arise due to the presence of knots and chips.

To avoid such troubles, it is important to know the classification of the lining and the types of its profile.

You can use wood not only for wall decoration indoors, but also outside.

Plastic panels will be very durable when decorating the facade, however, for finishing internal walls wood is ideal. Considering that the object will be sheathed with clapboard, it must be processed by special means for a wooden surface, protecting from rotting and fire. When choosing this material, you should focus on the class (A, B, C, EXTRA). The differences are in the quality of raw materials, in the number of knots per square meter (the fewer, the higher the quality).

Eurolining differs from a simple production technology, dimensions, profile, moisture content of the board. It is important to say here that there are grooves or grooves on the back of the eurolining so that condensate does not accumulate.

A little about wood. Before you sheathe clapboard at least something, determine the features of your room.

Pine is a very common material, the value for money makes it one of the most popular. Linden lining practically does not emit tar, it can be used when finishing damp warm rooms (bathhouse, kitchen). Alder, larch, cedar, mahogany, oak - the choice is diverse, and whatever your house is sheathed with clapboard, you will appreciate all its advantages.

Tools and installation methods

The most expensive and time-consuming process of laying the lining.

Having decided to do the sheathing with your own hands, it is worth preparing the tool necessary for installation.

What exactly is required in order to sheathe the clapboard, for example, the ceiling:

  • level or plumb
  • perforator,
  • screwdriver,
  • end saw
  • saw (you can jigsaw),
  • a hammer

Important: before starting the sheathing, bring the lining into the room that you are going to ennoble at least a day in advance and unpack it. During this period, the tree "gets used" to temperature and humidity, adapts to the microclimate.

Determine the installation method.

Vertical, diagonal, horizontal or herringbone - the choice is yours. It is customary to start fastening from the ceiling to the floor (if you need to make the sheathing horizontal), from the corner (if the sheathing is vertical), from the window to the walls opposite (we sheathe the ceiling).

Do-it-yourself clapboard lining features

Preliminary work

If we are talking about a horizontal finish of a stone wall, then of course the laying should be done from the bottom up so that each lower plank is a partial support for a higher plank.

The first thing to understand at the stage of preparation for finishing work: upholstery begins with the installation of the crate.

This design is necessary because without it it is impossible to correctly and evenly sheathe the room with clapboard. Making a crate with your own hands is very simple. Any boards of the same thickness will work. They should be attached at a distance of 50 to 70 cm from each other and perpendicular to the finishing board. Using the level, we do not allow a difference in the distance of the guides from the working surface. Wooden wedges will come in handy, they are hammered in order to avoid uneven walls.

At this stage, the room is insulated (if necessary), laying foam plastic or mineral wool. Free space creates sound insulation.

Cutting the lining yourself is quite simple, but you need to remember a few nuances.

First, we saw from the front side. Secondly, we put a piece of wood with the same groove under the board so that the spike has support and does not break off.

If we saw vertically, then we use a square, check right angles. For this work, both a hacksaw and a power tool (jigsaw, end saw) are suitable.

Mounting methods

Each subsequent lining board is inserted into the groove of the previous one, a galvanized clamp is put on the inner ledge of the groove.

It is not difficult to build a lining on the wall with your own hands, it really resembles the assembly of a designer (a board with a spike is inserted into the groove of the previous one).

We will make a convenient auxiliary tool with our own hands. Take a piece of wood, cut a groove from it. With the help of such a device, we will trim, join board after board. We insert the scrap into the lining, gently press it with your hand, you're done. You can lightly tap on the top to eliminate inconsistencies, but this must be done very carefully so as not to split the board.

Fastening to the crate differs in methods. If the design is not so important, you can use nails with small hats.

The chaotic arrangement of these hats is not so striking. This is appropriate to do in those rooms where design does not play any role. The advantages of such material as lining: sheathing can be done using a stapler, decorative nails, kleimers, self-tapping screws. One of the most common sheathing methods is to drive a self-tapping screw into a board groove at a 45-degree angle, sinking the head.

After completing the installation for beauty, you can attach the plinth

When docking the next panel, the hat will be hidden.

The use of a stapler depends on the section of the finishing board: the smaller it is, the more effective this method. Staples are also better to score at an angle, achieving invisibility of fasteners. When deciding to use clamps, keep in mind that they are not able to withstand a lot of weight, so the mount should in no case take up a large work surface.

Having understood what the finishing technology is, choosing the installation method and correctly preparing the tree, sheathing the surface will be quite simple.

Decorative elements, such as a plinth, will help to complete the interior.

Decorating your home with your own hands is a fascinating activity.

The upholstery will look very cozy, whether in the nursery, living room, pantry or kitchen. Natural, eco-friendly material Fits everywhere, from walls to ceilings.


Sheathing walls with clapboard means not only prestige and visible comfort. Lining made of wood has all the properties of wood: thermal insulation and breathability. The latter is determined primarily by the exchange capacity - with an excess of moisture vapor in the air, the lining from the lining absorbs them; gives in case of deficiency. In addition, wood exudes a slight aroma, bactericidal substances and neutralizes unpleasant odors. All this together creates a favorable, healthy microclimate in a house sheathed with clapboard.

Note: this publication deals with wooden lining. Plastic and metal are more resistant to external influences, but, firstly, they do not diminish or add anything to the quality of the environment, secondly, they are noticeably more expensive, and thirdly, the sheathing technology differs significantly from that for wood lining. Therefore, clapboard made of non-wood materials houses are sheathed mainly from the outside.

Work order

Wooden clapboard can be used to decorate living rooms of almost any style of design, both completely and partially, see fig. In the latter case, lining can be an effective means of zoning a room, at the top left in fig.

Wall decoration with clapboard is carried out in the following order:

  • Building preparation: if the walls are porous or cold (good heat conductors) - insulation and waterproofing from the outside. Possibly some decorative trim. Neglecting this point will nullify all efforts to create beauty within;
  • The choice of material - wood species, profile and width of the lining boards;
  • Choice of sheathing scheme: horizontal, vertical, diagonal, shaped;
  • Preparation of the internal base surface - leveling, steam / hydro insulation;
  • Installation of the crate under the skin;
  • Sheathing of walls with clapboard, according to standard or simplified technology. With regard to the strength and decorative qualities of the skin, they are equivalent, the differences are different, see below;
  • Applying a protective coating to the skin;
  • Installation of sockets, lamps and other devices built into the wall;
  • The imposition of skirting boards on deformation gaps, corners of window slopes and door quarters.

Material

Decorative lining is a kind of molding - long lumber - and is a profiled board with a typical tongue and groove connection. Tongue - a type of longitudinal tongue-and-groove connection with an open groove. Sheet piles come with locks (not necessarily requiring additional fastening of boards to the base) and without locks. Lining for walls and ceilings is produced exclusively with a lockless tongue and groove, because. locking tongues are reliable only in flooring. With locking tongues, a floor laminate is produced, which is much more expensive than lining. It is impossible to lay it on the walls and even more so on the ceiling without additional fasteners. There are typical fasteners for laminate, similar to the same for lining, but working with laminate is more difficult and it does not improve the microclimate of the room. The surfaces of the walls and ceiling are subject to wear incomparably less than the floor, so it makes no sense to spend money on covering anything other than the floor with a laminate.

Wood

Lining for walls is made from various types of wood, both ordinary local and expensive imported ones. The budget of the level up to the average is available lining from pine, spruce, oak, ash, larch and birch, see fig. Cedar, maple, beech, walnut and exotic woods of the road. The dressing room and the rest room of the bath are sheathed with coniferous clapboard, the washing room is lined with oak, aspen or alder; possibly larch. Steam room - linden, aspen, alder; rarely - oak.

Note: before use, wooden lining and wood for battens under it must be subjected to acclimatization - they are kept in a room that will be finished for at least a day, stacked in a pile with ventilation ducts.

Pine lining is either the cheapest or very expensive. Cheap ones are knotty, and expensive ones are without knots from the trunks of mast pines. Knotty pine lining, however, in skillful hands, serves as an excellent decorative material. Pine breathing is even, deep. Bactericidal properties and resistance to fungi and pests are excellent. For finishing living quarters, you need to take a lining made of dry-wood pine, cut down in winter. Pine-tar, cut down during the period of sap flow, in the open air keeps no worse than bog oak, but it is too resinous and expensive. It is easy to distinguish tar on sale from dry chips: tar either shows streaks of resin, or it stains your finger with it if you hold it with pressure over the fibers. Interior decoration pine clapboard houses - the best option in terms of beauty, benefit and cost.

Spruce is in many ways similar to pine, but it is not necessary to sheathe the nursery and the kitchen with it: spruce is not divided into dry chips and tar. The resin content of spruce wood is about the same all year round. Spruce sheathing is light, but darkens faster than pine under the influence of ultraviolet (UV), so it is better to finish with spruce clapboard rooms with windows to the north and northwest. A feature of spruce wood is its excellent resonant properties. A conversation in a spruce-lined office turns out to be solid, detailed, and the music or the sound of a film in a “spruce” living room is clear, juicy, and lively.

Note: on sale under the guise of spruce, lining is often found in almost the same color tone as pine. She is fir. There are more resins in it than in spruce, and the sound resonance is weak. Fir lining is well suited to the hallway, balcony, glazed veranda and other rooms where people enter in street clothes and shoes - fir lining retains bactericidal properties for a very long time.

Oak is renowned for its strength and durability. With regard to decorative lining, it is important that the tone of oak wood differs within the same board. This gives more design options. Ash is also uneven in tone, but lighter than oak and breathes easier. The south-facing oak-lined living room can be stuffy in summer; it is generally not recommended to decorate the bedroom and the nursery with oak. Oak muffles sounds; if neighbors are “happy” from your music center, then oak paneling is able to reconcile them with unexpected joy. Oak perfectly resists rot and mold, but wood-boring beetles gnaw it willingly. The house bug most often starts up in oak houses.

Larch is very resistant, breathes like pine. Fungi and insects are not afraid; ants and cockroaches avoid houses sheathed with larch, even mosquitoes fly there reluctantly. Larch wood has a wide range of tones from wood to wood; the texture of its layers is more refined and expressive than pine. Larch lining, selected by shades, is expensive, but its regrading is much cheaper and interesting effects can be achieved in sheathing from it. There is quite a lot of resin in larch, but it quickly evaporates and (mostly) bituminizes: a year-old larch lining is equivalent in this respect to dry wood pine. It is the bituminization of the main part of the resin that explains the high resistance of larch wood.

Birch gives an exceptionally bright, cheerful, positive interior. and aesthetically compatible with most modern styles design. Under the action of UV birch darkens slowly and weakly. Unfortunately, birch wood is very easily affected by fungi. The only 100% reliable way to guarantee birch sheathing from the appearance of colored veins and stains - heating with underfloor heating in combination with good external insulation.

Linden, alder, aspen for sheathing residential premises are of little use due to low mechanical strength; lining from these types of wood is used only for. Lining the steam room in the bath with linden makes the bath light, suitable for women, children and weak people. Steam room with alder or aspen paneling - ordinary, medium. Oak bath - vigorous. It is good to maintain good health and strength in it, but to an ordinary person she won't do any good.

Note: it is unacceptable to sheathe a steam room and a washing bath with a knotty clapboard made of any tree; in the bath atmosphere, the knots soon begin to fall out. In the steam room, in addition, the knots are sources of fire and burn danger, heat is concentrated in them.

Profile and width

Cheaper and easier to install with your own hands (see below) lining of the Soft Line profile (on the right in the figure); if, according to the design, the visible gaps between the boards are minimal, use eurolining.

The lining of the Shtil profile differs from it not only in a smaller thickness, but also in a more rounded groove - shaped chamfers of the outer ribs. Clapboard Calm, as a rule, is expensive, made of wood without knots. Lining under a bar is used, in addition to purely decorative purposes, for sheathing auxiliary bath rooms, because. due to its greater thickness, it conducts heat worse and is less prone to knots falling out. Larch clapboard under a bar at least a year old from the time of sawing can be sheathed and washing, but not a steam room.

Note: Eurolining is also available with a comb height of 16 mm. This is the so-called. wind resistant, for outdoor cladding. To sheathe the walls inside with it or not is up to you.

The lining of any profile is produced by boards of different widths. If you intend to finish the room (s) with a clapboard with your own hands in an inexpensive simplified way, as described below, then the width of the board becomes important: the last one in the installation order must be cut in width as small as possible, and the cut should not be narrower than the plinth + deformation gap. Let's explain with an example. Let's say the length of the wall is 4 mm (400 cm). We are trying to take for vertical plating (see below) a board 150 mm wide (15 cm) along the upper layer. 400/15 = 26.67 boards will be used for sheathing. So acceptable, from the last one remains 2/3 in width; 4/5 or 5/6 would be better. With a 13 cm board, you get 400/13 = 30.77 more expensive boards; a 180 mm board will not work, because from the last in width there will be only 0.22. A 200 mm board will not work either: it seems like an integer number fits them, but there is no margin for trimming, see below.

American

The American clapboard came to construction from wooden shipbuilding: there, lining with planks is the only way to get seams suitable for waterproof caulking. Lining-American can be flat (pos. 1 in the figure) and stepped (pos. 2 and pos. 3 - a profile with dimensions), to imitate herringbone sheathing along.

It is believed that an American can only be sewn with horizontal belts. So, the installation of an American Christmas tree (as well as a blockhouse) with vertical panels is quite possible:

  • Each panel will go 2, 4 (as in pos. 4), 6, etc. an even number of boards.
  • At the extreme boards of the panel, the comb is cut off.
  • Under the joints of low edges (with cut ridges), bars are placed perpendicular to the main bars of the crate, see below.
  • High edges are connected with dowels (lamellas) - strips of wood or plywood. There is no need to cut them exactly along the profile of the grooves, it is only necessary that the keys sit tightly and the boards do not play relative to each other.

Sheathing from American vertical panels looks no worse, if not better, than herringbone sheathing (see below), but it is technologically simpler.

Sheathing schemes

The lining boards on the walls are easiest to either mount upright or impose horizontal belts. Horizontal sheathing is generally more beautiful, but it is necessary to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard horizontally, by all means laying the boards with the ridges up. Otherwise, microreservoirs are formed in the grooves (pos. 1 in the figure on the right), from which rot and infection will come. With the correct sheathing of the side of the groove of the bottom board (the first in the order of installation) is cut off, pos. 2 in Fig., so that the groove does not become a pocket - a capillary moisture trap. As for the vertical cladding, here, whether and where to cut off the tongue / groove, depends only on the method of installation. Vertical cladding is used in damp rooms or with a high probability of condensation (bath, hallway); here and correct installation horizontal plating will not save it from jamming.

Diagonal clapboard lining is rarely used, because. complex and gives a large waste of material, but almost does not win aesthetically. There are many shaped linings with clapboard; you can see that, for example, flat herringbone sheathing (on the left in the next figure) is laborious, but not as complicated as it seems: the fragments are cut according to a template in a miter box and mounted on a vertical crate. They look chic, but more complicated are the rhombus panels from the lining, on the right in fig. The crate under them is a cross with a frame, in the quadrants of which bars are attached under the diagonal plating, see below.

crate

You can’t just nail the lining to the wall, even if the wooden wall is completely even: a system of capillary channels will appear between the sheathing and the wall, the room will become damp, and the sheathing and, possibly, the wall will rot. The clapboard lining is necessarily ventilated, for which ventilation channels are cut out in the undersides of the boards. That is, under the clapboard sheathing, a crate made of wood is certainly necessary.

Why wood? Because the lathing material, similar in properties to the sheathing, also serves as a mechanical damper, especially if the base wall is made of mineral materials. For the same purpose, deformation gaps of 6-10 mm must be left between the cladding and the wall, see below. If the sheathing with a wooden clapboard is applied, say, to steel profiles for drywall, then it will quickly swell or cracks will go. And if, after a year or two, the plinths are removed from the sheathing along the wooden crate, it turns out that its edges have led, but the visible surface, as it was even, remained.

Schemes of battens for vertical, horizontal and diagonal cladding are given in fig. General principle- the lathing bars are perpendicular to the boards. Do not neglect the edge bars (marked in red!): There should be no hanging ends of the boards; the crate for diagonal cladding must have a continuous frame. The thickness of the lathing bars is 20-40 mm; width 30-60 mm. The installation step of the bars is 4-5 board widths along the upper layer.

Note 6: fastening the bars to the wall - 6 mm self-tapping screws in plastic dowels. In concrete from 70 mm, in brick from 90 mm, in foam / gas blocks from 120 mm. AT wooden wall- self-tapping screws for wood from 4x60. The fastening step of the bars is 400-600 mm. Attachment points 50-70 mm from the ends are required.

Wall

It is necessary to fasten the lining to the wall, taking into account the fact that the gap created by the crate is a ventilation, and not a steam trap. Second, in order for the sheathing with an ideal room not to be led away from drying out of the wood, the unevenness of the virtual (formed by the outer layers of the lathing beams) surface for the sheathing should be no more than 2 mm / m and the total no more than 6 mm along the entire wall of any length.

Put the crate directly on the porous moisture-absorbing wall (item 1 in the figure) - gross mistake. A rather expensive and time-consuming, but very reliable option for preparing a wall is to cover it with cement vapor-tight plaster, pos. 2; at the same time and the wall is leveled. To a sufficiently even concrete wall in a dry room, the battens can be fastened with EC brackets for drywall profiles, pos. 3.

Initially, EC staples are thin perforated plates. In this case, the bars of the crate are pre-selected for evenness. The middle beam is placed first, the EC-brackets, already attached to the wall, are bent and fastened along its edges, the ends of the beam are bent, then the intermediate brackets are bent and the entire beam is fastened without deforming it. The rest of the bars are placed exactly in the plane, focusing on the middle one.

However The best way preparing the wall for clapboard cladding - vapor barrier; in the bath, kitchen, hallway, it’s impossible to do otherwise. The wall is leveled and foil isol is applied to it with foil out; insulation sheets are placed on mounting tape with an overlap of 15 cm. more than the thickness of the insulation, and already to them - the bars of the crate, pos. 4. Thus, a continuous ventilated space is formed between the insulation and the casing, shown by green arrows in pos. 5.

sheathing

The main principle of clapboard lining is to go from small complex places (see the figure on the right) to large solid planes. For details on all the intricacies of the inner lining with wooden clapboard, according to all the rules, see the following. video, and we'll see where to simplify, reduce the cost and make it easier, working with our own hands for ourselves.

Video: installation of wooden lining

Professionally, the lining is attached to the crate with mounting clips: starting (pos. 1a in the figure) and running, or clamps (clamps, clamps, clamps), pos 1 b, 2 and 3.

Fastening with adhesives ensures high labor productivity: a pro, using a pneumatic stapler, spends only a few seconds on the fastening point, see the video:

Video: Claymers for fastening lining

Second, the adhesives do not damage the boards. For example, in the countries of Southern Europe wood paneling rooms are a symbol of wealth and prestige, but from strong UV, the clapboard lining there darkens with spots after 2-4 years. Then the lining is changed, the removed boards are sorted by tone and sold as used, but no one will buy a holey board as a working material. Mounting the lining on the clamps is technologically accessible to anyone, see another video, but it turns out to be overhead, because. in addition to an increased amount of more expensive fasteners, special tools are also needed.

Video: how to fasten lining with adhesives

In Central Russia, lining under 2 layers of acrylic lacquer (see below) will retain its appearance for 10 years or more. With your own hands in your house, the lining to the crate can be fastened with small screws or nails, pos. 4 and 5:

In this case, it is more convenient to work with the soft line (pos. 5), because the number of obliquely driven hardware is reduced. The fastener caps are sunk in plain sight by turning the excess with a screwdriver or, if it is nails, with a doboynik - a steel rod with a cap under the blow of a hammer striker at one end and the other end sharpened on a truncated cone. The simplest doboynik is obtained from a 100-150 mm nail.

Recessed fastener caps are rubbed with putty on wood. Because wall and ceiling cladding is not subject to heavy loads and wear, you can prepare putty exactly to match the wood yourself by kneading 2-4 volume parts of sawdust of the same tree into 1 part of PVA.

Laying

Usually the lining is laid in the same way as a laminate: a comb is cut off from the first board and placed in that place against the wall. However, since they don’t walk on the walls and ceiling and don’t put furniture on them, the sheathing according to the “everything is the opposite” principle, pos. 6. Only the last board is cut to size in width, and the first one is placed with a groove to the wall as it is.

Protection

The panel (wall) sewn with clapboard is sanded to evenness with sandpaper No. 140-160, then primed with a primer for acrylic lacquer. The purpose of the primer in this case is primarily to raise the small fibers left by the coarse sandpaper. After the primer dries, the surface is sanded with sandpaper No. 240-280. After each grinding, the surface is blown with a vacuum cleaner (you can’t rub it with a rag!). Two sandings with an intermediate primer will give a perfectly smooth surface. Its protection against mechanical damage and UV will provide 2 layers of acrylic varnish, colorless or tinted. The 2nd layer is applied after the first has completely dried. In addition, varnishing will significantly reduce the fire hazard of the skin, but it will not interfere with breathing: breathing will go from the underside through the deformation gaps.

Modern technologies in construction and repair are constantly being improved, a lot of new materials appear. GKL, OSB, plastic are in demand and are widely used, but wood still does not give up its position. In particular, lining is very popular and popular; it is practiced when sheathing ceilings, walls, window and door slopes. The material can be used for internal and external works.

Features and purpose

Lining is a natural and environmentally friendly material. Its positive features include the following characteristics.

  • Nice appearance. The never-repeating original wood pattern makes it possible to create an extremely interesting finishing material. Manifold color schemes, shades and contrasts makes it possible for designers to actively use it in own projects. With this material, you can not only change the appearance of the interior of residential premises, but also make the facade of any house more attractive.
  • Wear resistance. The lining boards are thoroughly impregnated with all kinds of protective agents, the treated surface will serve for decades. The boards are tightly joined to each other during laying, resulting in an extremely strong surface that perfectly protects internal or external walls from the influence of negative factors.

  • Ease of installation. Laying can be carried out even by those who do not understand anything at all in construction. Ease of laying strongly attracts consumers, since spending a minimum of time on mastering the most important rules of finishing, you can save significant money on the remuneration of specialists.
  • Good soundproofing. When installing the lining between it and the wall of the house, an insignificant air layer is formed, which counteracts the penetration of third-party sounds and ensures silence in the house.
  • Affordable price. The cost of the material fluctuates in a relatively wide range, which makes it possible to choose the most cost-effective option. It should also be noted that laying does not require careful preparation of the base, which helps to reduce the cost of finishing work.

Lining is an almost universal product used for sheathing a variety of surface types, ranging from walls in a room to ceilings. It can be used for finishing a bathroom in an apartment, a bathhouse, a sauna, office space, cladding a log cabin, timber, frame, brick houses or buildings made of aerated concrete. It is possible to hem the roof with clapboard, since the tongue-and-groove connection used makes it possible to give the cladding the appearance of a monolithic coating.

Types and characteristics

The lining can be made of wood, MDF ( wood waste), as well as PVC (plastic lining).

from wood

Wooden lining is the ancestor of the whole lining, which has not lost its popularity in our time. Clapboard made of wood finds extensive use both in the external and internal cladding of buildings. It looks especially respectable in hallways or saunas. Of course, so that the service life of the lining is long, even in places with high humidity the basis for its manufacture should be the appropriate tree species, such as linden or alder. Other types of wood (pine, spruce) are suitable for use in more acceptable temperature conditions.

This material can also be different in shape. There are several types of profiles.

  • Standard Profile – front side with equal bevels on both the side of the groove and the side of the tenon. In this case, the outer corners and edges of the profile are straight and look somewhat rough.

  • Profile named "soft-line" gives the lined surface a smoother look, which is facilitated by rounded bevels. The lining of the "calm" brand looks just as smooth. But unlike the "softline", it has a less deep groove and a shorter tenon, which significantly reduces the performance of the material, since the profile locks can move apart with fluctuations in temperature and humidity.

  • If in a standard profile grooves are additionally made on its back side, then the so-called eurolining. Such grooves are made to prevent the accumulation of condensate behind the mounted profile, since air masses circulate between the base and the profile.

  • Lining "American". Due to the virtuoso copying of solid wood, it is the most successful replacement for solid wood. Its demand is facilitated by an acceptable cost, which is much lower than the cost of the array. It also owes its popularity to its original design, which managed to captivate the hearts of designers, and resistance to the influence of high humidity and precipitation, which makes it possible to use it for exterior decoration.

From MDF

This material can be attributed to wood, but relatively. The raw material for its production is finely chopped wood waste or wood dust. Due to the specialized heat treatment of raw materials, a sufficiently strong and relatively light material is obtained, environmental characteristics which make it possible to use it even in children's rooms and bedrooms.

The undoubted advantages of the MDF profile include an almost unlimited range of colors. Due to the ability to externally reproduce not only wood patterns, but also the pattern of stone, marble and other materials, the profile has gained particular popularity among people with modest material wealth.

Walls lined with MDF look cozy and stylish.

plastic

A profile made of plastic or PVC panels is a strong competitor to the first two types of lining. Often, the plastic version is chosen because of its relatively low cost, low weight and the same ease of installation and reliability in operation.

It is successfully used in both external and internal decoration of the house. Although this material is environmentally friendly and can be used in almost any room, you must be aware that such material will not add a certain comfort to the interior of the room. The walls (or some sections of them) lined with plastic clapboard on the balcony or in the bathroom look good. However, in the living room or bedroom, such a design may look somewhat awkward. Where PVC panels look especially attractive is on the ceiling, and then only in common areas such as kitchen, bathroom, corridor.

When deciding whether to mount PVC panels on the ceiling and walls, make sure that there is no open flame nearby, or just something hot, as such material is freely deformed by high temperatures, loses color and after that cannot be restored or repair.

Dimensions

It should be noted right away that the sizes of ordinary and eurolining are different. The length, thickness and width of a conventional profile is set by the manufacturer himself.

The greatest demand is for lining made of wood, which is characterized by standard sizes.

  • The smallest length of the board is 0.2 meters, the largest length is 6 meters. Such dimensions make it attractive for those who intend to cover a bath, balcony or living room.
  • The profile width can be from 76 to 200 millimeters. This size makes it possible to perform high-quality cladding both inside and outside the house.
  • The thickness of the board is from 12 to 40 mm, the size of the spike is from 4 to 5 mm.

If wooden profiles are analyzed by length, then they are divided into two classes: long ones are used for cladding, short ones are used for sheathing roof eaves. Short boards are cheaper due to the fact that the blanks are made from the leftovers of the production of long boards.

Eurolining sizes can be from 1.5 meters to 6 meters in length. The thickness can be 13.16 and 19 millimeters. The width of eurolining is 80, 100, 110 and 120 millimeters. This width is perfect for covering spacious rooms. The size of the spike is from 8 millimeters to 9.

For eurolining, the following differences in size are allowed:

  • along the length +/- 5 mm;
  • thickness 0.7 mm;
  • in width - one millimeter;
  • the tenon size can be +/- 0.5 mm.

Installation subtleties

Usually, wood frames are created for cladding on the bases with a distance between the supporting profiles of 40 to 60 cm. Similarly, the subsystem can be made of galvanized metal profiles, only in order to attach clamps instead of studs (anodized or copper are used for rooms with high humidity), it is necessary to use self-tapping screws for metal or rivets with a small head like LN 9 mm.

The slats can be directed both vertically and horizontally. In the horizontal direction, the expansion channels on the back side perfectly remove moisture (very good for doubles), and with the horizontal direction of the sheathing with the channel down, the penetration of moisture into the lock is excluded (excellent for facade sheathing).

I must say that a lining made of wood, mounted horizontally, can be practiced for sheathing wooden and metal partitions. Sometimes the walls of frame buildings are sheathed directly on the racks with it. A good decorative effect can be obtained if the boards are installed diagonally, although there are difficulties with cutting and planning the economical use of material.

Forcing boards to enclosing structures are best installed with a compensating gap (up to 10 mm). After mounting, external and internal corners the junctions are covered with wood extensions. Similarly, for these purposes, you can use a rope made of jute, hemp or flax, which is perfectly combined with wood and reliably seals technological gaps, since it repeats all kinds of curved surfaces with the utmost accuracy.

Facade

In order to finish the facade in a horizontal direction, it is recommended to work from the bottom up. The first bar is mounted with the spike down and fastened to the crate. The second panel is installed so that its spike enters the groove of the first, after which it should also be fixed to the crate. All subsequent panels are mounted in a similar way.

Fixing the lining on the crate can be done by means of self-tapping screws, nails, brackets construction stapler, as well as specialized fasteners. It would not hurt if the fasteners passed through the groove bar when mounting the board, then it would be invisible. When mounting each panel, it is necessary to strictly control the accuracy of its location - it must be parallel to other boards. Skews and offsets are not allowed. It is also important that the boards are located strictly in the same plane, that is, they should not be higher or lower relative to each other.

For door and window openings, wall joints, specialized skirting boards, profile corner and slats are used. The second option is the installation of lining planks perpendicular to the base of the facade. Boards are installed and fixed in a vertical position. For wall joints, two strips are used, which are placed at the desired angle. Door and window openings are made in a similar way (one plank covers the slope, the second bases the casing).

In some cases, it is required to use a double frame for eurolining. For him, the bars are nailed in two layers, the upper one is made perpendicular to the lower one. Reinforcement of the frame is required on large facades, where the own weight of the cladding is large, and the load on the supporting structure is increased.

Varnishing and painting of lining is best done after installation is completed, and treatment with protective equipment both inside and out should be carried out before installation.

When cladding the facade, lining can be used in conjunction with other materials. This will give the exterior of the house a more expressive look. You can also use lining of various colors.

Interior decoration

The lining, of course, can be nailed directly to the ceiling or wall, but only on condition that they are even and made of wood, which is extremely rare. As a rule, a frame is first built on the surface (the slats are fixed), and then the facing material is nailed. There is a small but very significant nuance here. If the lining will be mounted in a vertical position, then the wall should be filled with slats horizontally in increments of approximately 0.5-1 meter. If the horizontal position is selected for the skin, then the slats are arranged vertically.

This is done for a more reliable adhesion of the frame to the lining. Naturally, the wall must be even, because all the rails in the frame must be at the same level. To do this, it is necessary to use a plumb line and a level when working. Upon completion preparatory work you can start trimming. Experts recommend starting from the corner and moving on rail by rail.

In rooms that do not require impeccable beauty (in particular, outbuildings and utility rooms), nails can also be used for fixing. Of course, not ordinary nails, but special ones with small caps.

You can simply nail the planks in the center, but to form a decent appearance, it is better to hammer in the carnations in the grooves, then they will practically not be noticeable. But if you want the surface to have a pleasant aesthetic appearance, it is better to use special brackets for fixing.

Mounting of lining is required to be carried out, adhering to the rules. At this stage, there should be no omissions or defects, otherwise the lining may turn out to be fragile and will not last long.

Between planks and base(wall, facade, ceiling, etc.) there must be a ventilation gap of 1-2 centimeters. Often, when mounting, it is overlooked, closing the space for ventilation with thermal insulation. For normal ventilation between the installed lining and the ventilation layer, it is necessary to leave an empty space. If this is not done, then the material will begin to get wet, crack, bend.

If no space for ventilation was left during the work, the casing must be dismantled. In the presence of insulation, there are 2 ways to create a ventilation gap: you can remove part of the insulation or “build up” the frame, thereby increasing the distance between the base and the skin.

In the process of mounting with your own hands, when leveling the planks of the eurolining, you must act very carefully. In order not to spoil the material when tapping their ends, it is necessary to correctly calculate the impact force. Actually, due to the fear of chipping off the groove, small distortions of the planks are often left during mounting. This should not be allowed - the material must be laid perfectly evenly, exactly parallel to the initial bar. Otherwise, the skew will only increase, due to which the entire lining will be a curve.

If the boards are already mounted skewed, you need to find the one with which the discrepancy went. All trim installed after it must be dismantled. Then the uneven plank is leveled and the lining is mounted from the beginning.

Wood expands when heated and contracts when cooled. To compensate for the transformation of its dimensions, when laying the skin along its contour, a space of several millimeters is retained. If the laying is done without a gap and the boards rest against the walls, the sheathing undergoes deformation over time. To correct such a mistake, you need to dismantle the skirting boards and cut the strips a little from the edges. So, when facing walls, the extreme strips should not reach the corners by 5-6 mm. The same - with joints with the ceiling and floors.

Often, the lining is fixed to the frame by means of clamps.(brackets of a special configuration). Meanwhile, conventional staples can only be used when it is required to sheathe indoor and dry rooms. For external cladding, as well as for sheathing rooms with high humidity, it is better to use nails or self-tapping screws. Standard brackets in such episodes provide not very reliable fastening and the skin is deformed as the wood dampens, as well as under the influence of sharp temperature fluctuations.

If the cladding of a room with high humidity or a facade is implemented using not very strong brackets, it is necessary to strengthen the fasteners. The easiest option is through fixation with nails or self-tapping screws. It should be noted that in this situation their caps will be visible on the surface of the skin. If this is unacceptable, then the lining must be removed and laid again using more reliable fasteners.

In accordance with the regulations, the eurolining after mounting must be covered with protective equipment. In fact, this is not always done, as a rule, the material performs its functions without a special coating. The result of this is the appearance of fungal neoplasms on the surface. If the tree has not had time to deteriorate, it is necessary to apply a protective substance to it as soon as possible. If the fungus has already formed, the surface of the boards needs to be treated with a special anti-fungal agent, and then applied protection. In some cases, before applying protection, the surface is sanded to remove damaged wood.

Cladding examples

  • There is an opinion that lining is more suitable for a bath or a summer residence than for an apartment and a cottage. Such a delusion is successfully refuted by designers who harmoniously fit wood cladding into a wide variety of trends and styles.
  • Lining made of wood in the interior harmoniously combines with wallpaper, tiles, plaster. With a professional combination of textures, you can create a stylish and elegant interior.
  • Lining can become integral part interior in Scandinavian style. In this design, it is in harmony with the artificial or natural stone and large beams on the ceiling.

  • For those who are in love with Provence, the execution of the walls with wood material of natural tones will certainly suit. In this option, the combination of wood with plaster and rough board floors looks nice and at ease.
  • Another style that requires the use of natural wood veneer is Russian. The walls lined with a block house look like the walls of a log house.

  • You can use lining in high-tech style. In this version, materials painted in neutral white or gray colors are used as a background for rich accessories.
  • Fans of minimalism will most likely like the combination of lining with strict ceramic and stone cladding.