The durability, reliability and stability of windows depend on the quality of installation of slopes. Slopes provide tightness, heat and sound insulation. If they are installed incorrectly, the window will not last long and functionally, and will soon have to be replaced. Therefore, it is very important to choose the right type of slopes that is suitable for your windows, and install it correctly.

Types of window slopes, their advantages and disadvantages

Depending on the location of the slopes, they are divided into internal and external or external.

Internal slopes are located directly in the room and do not have a special functional role, except for tightness, and also act as a design for the joints between the window and the wall. Unlike them, external slopes provide sound and heat insulation, protect the room from moisture, heat and temperature changes.

Depending on the material from which the slopes are made, there are:

• plaster,
• wooden,
• plasterboard,
• plastic,
• Sandwich panels.

1. Plaster slopes are a classic option. It will take at least two days to install such slopes. Since the plaster must dry after application. And then it needs to be sanded to make it smooth. After grinding, internal slope, it is treated with a primer and painted water-based paint.

2. Wooden slopes for windows. For windows made of natural wood, wooden slopes are ideal. At the same time, the design of the room will become more aristocratic and refined. For the manufacture of such slopes, the best wood is chosen, carefully dried and processed. Therefore, wooden slopes will last as long as, for example, plastic ones. One of the significant advantages of wooden slopes is their environmental friendliness. After all, wood is a natural material that does not emit toxic substances, unlike plastic.

3. Slopes for plasterboard windows. Drywall slopes are used for significant damage to window openings. They close up only internal openings. Plasterboard slopes allow you to get rid of additional moisture on the windows. First you need to beat all the plaster and cover it with a primer. Then sheets of moisture-resistant drywall are installed, and a heater is placed between them: polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam or mineral wool. Further, this slope is primed, painted or finished according to the interior design. And at the junction between the wall and the slope, a corner is glued. The disadvantage of such slopes is that when wet for a long time, drywall slopes swell.

4. Plastic window slopes. Plastic slopes are more expensive than drywall. Such slopes are ideal for plastic windows, as they have the same coefficient of thermal expansion during temperature differences. This eliminates the possibility of gaps between the window and slopes. Plastic slopes are suitable for finishing both internal and external slopes.

5. Sandwich panels - as a kind of plastic slopes. Sandwich panels are a type of plastic slopes. Unlike plastic, sandwich panels consist of three layers, two sheets of plastic and insulation between them. Sandwich panels can withstand temperatures up to 45 ° C, thereby providing protection from moisture and cold. Of all the window slopes, they are the most expensive.

Installation of slopes on metal-plastic windows

There are three types of slopes suitable for PVC windows:

• plastic,
• plaster,
• Plasterboard.

Slopes made of plastic or sandwich panels are best suited for finishing plastic windows. Plastic slopes are applied after the installation of plastic windows. To better understand the technology of their installation, let's get acquainted with the tools that will be needed in the process of work:

• plastic panels,
• start lane,
• corner,
• Profile,
• self-tapping screws,
• Insulation: polystyrene foam, mineral wool or polyurethane foam,
• silicone gun,
• Screwdriver,
• Scotch,
• bubble level,
• Putty.

The technology for installing slopes of plastic windows is not too complicated, if you carefully understand everything:

• To begin with, from the outside, remove all excess mounting foam. This can be done with a construction knife. Next, you need to putty all the cracks, using any mixture for exterior and interior work, depending on the type of slope.
• Using a level, measure the dimensions internal slopes. Install a wooden frame, on which our plastic slope will subsequently be attached. The starting strip is installed at the bottom of the window frame.
• Attach the profile to the wooden frame. With the help of foam mineral wool or mounting foam, insulate the slope.
• Now install the plastic base. To do this, simply fix it on the profile, and process the joints with silicone. This technology for installing slopes on PVC windows for external and internal slopes is absolutely the same.

Watch the installation of slopes of plastic windows - video:

Advantages of installing plastic slopes:

• No serious room pollution.
• Since plastic does an excellent job with thermal insulation, energy savings are guaranteed.
• Replacing a window does not require repairing the entire room.
• Plastic slopes are easy to clean and do not collect dust.
• The slope performs the function of absorbing moisture, thus eliminating the appearance of mold.
• The plastic slope is made of the same material as the window, which means it will last the same lines.

Plaster slopes for metal-plastic windows

Plaster slopes are also installed on plastic windows, but they have more disadvantages than advantages. Firstly, they do not keep heat well, which means that fogging of windows is guaranteed. Secondly, plaster slopes will not last as long as plastic ones, because they crack over time. Thirdly, it will take a lot of time to install plaster slopes. Since such slopes are laid in layers, and each layer needs at least two days to dry. The advantages of these slopes are low cost of operation and versatility.

To install plaster slopes, we need:

• plaster mix,
• Perforator,
• A hammer,
• dowel,
• self-tapping screws,
• Screwdriver,
• Level,
• Putty knife,
• square,
• Primer.

Installation steps:

• Before starting work, stick a protective film on the window sill, do the same with the window if there is no special branded film on it.
• We clean the excess foam with a paint knife. Next, we prime and insulate future slopes. Styrofoam is glued around the perimeter of the slope location.
• Next, you should install beacons and dilute the plaster solution. It is recommended to use ready-made cement mortars based on gypsum or cement.

Tip: Before applying the mortar, attach the plaster mesh over the foam.

• The plaster should be applied first with a wide spatula at a right angle, and then level the surface at an angle of 45-50 degrees.

• Sanding, primer and paint
• Primer, putty and paint

Plasterboard slopes for metal-plastic windows

Plasterboard slopes are installed only indoors, the use of external plasterboard slopes is unacceptable.

To install plasterboard slopes on plastic windows, we need:

• Moisture resistant drywall
• profiles and guides,
• metal screws,
• assembly knife,
• dowel,
• Level,
• insulation,
• screwdriver,
• Perforated corner.

For correct installation slopes on the windows, a number of such actions should be performed:

• We measure the distance from the window to the place of the future slope. Consider the width of the drywall as well, 12mm thick drywall works best.
• After you have measured the distance, put marks on the wall.
• Install the guide profile. Its outer side should go along the line, and the profile itself should be behind the line.
• Next, draw lines on the floor and ceiling and nail the next profile.
• When the frame is ready, we insulate the slope. As well as when installing a plastic slope, using mounting foam, polystyrene or mineral wool.
• According to the exposed profiles, we measure the slope, and cut out the required dimensions with a mounting knife.
• The next step is the assembly of drywall slope. Using self-tapping screws, we fasten the drywall.
• Using a perforated corner, check the corners.
• Glue fiberglass or interlining at the joints of drywall.
• Next, we carry out finishing work: putty and paint.

Tip: To install a drywall slope, choose moisture-resistant drywall, as moisture collects in the corners and mold forms.

There is another option for installing drywall slopes. This is gluing them to the surface of the slope. To do this, first remove the excess mounting foam with a knife and prime the surface. Then we level the slope with putty. We measure and cut sheets of drywall of the desired size. We glue them with a special glue for drywall.

Tip: When gluing drywall sheets, they also use a finishing putty, which does not set as quickly as glue, so it is ideal for those who make such slopes for the first time.

Installation of slopes on wooden windows

For wooden windows a wooden slope made of the same wood as the window itself is best suited. It is advisable to install a wooden slope on the second day after installing the window, so that the mounting foam has time to dry.

To install a wooden slope, we need:

• assembly knife,
• Primer,
• screwdriver,
• self-tapping screws,
• Wooden casing.

It is necessary to measure the future slope in advance, to prepare the casing of the desired size. Next, cut off the excess foam and prime the surface. Then we install and attach the slope, connecting the slopes to each other using self-tapping screws.

Another type of slope suitable for wooden windows is cork slopes, made of drywall covered with cork oak bark.

Advantages:

• Installation of such a slope does not take much time,
• environmental friendliness,
• Excellent sound and heat insulators.

Disadvantages:

• Price.
• Very soft, easy to damage.

To install a cork slope, you need to install a profile, and attach sheets of the required size to it. Next, insulate the space between the sheet and the window with mounting foam. Then treat the joints with silicone.

Plaster and plasterboard and plastic slopes are also suitable for wooden windows. The technology for installing slopes on windows, both plastic and wooden, is the same in this case.

If the apartment is not started with cosmetic repairs, but with a full-fledged one - with the replacement of windows, interior doors, buying expensive wallpaper, the issue of saving the family budget becomes very relevant. You can save money by doing some of the work yourself. Such simple even for a beginner, nevertheless very costly when performing work by hired specialists, is the installation of window slopes. Try to make slopes on plastic windows with your own hands - it's easy and fun.

Materials for the design of window slopes

The materials used for finishing window openings are as follows:

• Plaster;
• Drywall;
• Plastic.

slopes on plastic windows

Each of them has its pros and cons, before choosing a material it is better to familiarize yourself with them in advance.

Material	pros	Minuses
Plaster	Cheap Consumables Minimum tools required (but be patient)	Production time - from 10 to 14 days During the next repair, part of the plaster may crumble - restoration of the slope will be required After drying, small cracks always form in the joints with the window due to the different expansion of the window materials and the slope with temperature changes. Subsequently, they may expand and the window will lose its neat appearance.
Drywall	The top layer of drywall is easy to repair - the surface is puttyed again, primed and painted	Installation time The instability of drywall to moisture - can not be installed in rooms with excessively humid air, such as a kitchen
Plastic	durable Easy to clean Does not require painting Easy to mount Resistant to moisture	Over time, the plastic surface may become scratched and lose its original whiteness.

When choosing plastic, you should pay attention that the panel must be resistant to mechanical damage and ultraviolet (otherwise it will quickly lose color, turning into something yellowish!). Most of these requirements are met by sandwich panels that have a stable outer layer, an inner layer consisting of insulation (usually expanded polystyrene), and a moisture-resistant PVC sheet.

plastic panels for slopes on PVC windows

We plaster ourselves

If the openings on the windows have a fairly even and strong base, you can stop at this type of finish. For work you will need:

• building level;
• dry gypsum plaster(or cement and sand, when plastering slopes with a sand-cement mixture);
• sealant;
• spatula (many use two - small and large, the first in order to collect the solution from the container and apply to the second - wider - along the entire length);
• putty;
• primer;
• grinder or fine sandpaper;
• dye desired color(you can use both solvent-based enamels and acrylic paints).

Attention! Important! When plastering window openings, part of the wall around the window is affected, so if it is a pity to damage the existing wallpaper, it is better to choose a different material for decoration!

plastering slopes after installing plastic windows

The first stage consists of preparing the surface for applying plaster. The rule here is one and simple - the surface must be clean, strong (all crumbling and falling out parts must be removed). Before starting work, it must be swept with a paint brush and primed.

Mortar preparation and plastering itself

Dry gypsum plaster is diluted in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations written on the package. You should not experiment, so that after a while you do not have to do all the work again, and it is possible that after finishing the room it will hardly be possible.

If cement mortar is used, it is better to adhere to classic recipe: The ratio of water, cement and sand should be 1:2:1. The layer thickness in this case should not exceed 3 cm. It is better to sift the sand before work.

preparation of mortar for plastering slopes

Advice: You should not prepare a lot of mortar at once - they dry out quickly prepared from a gypsum mixture, which makes it difficult to use them further.

After applying the first layer of plaster, it is necessary to carry out insulation window opening around the perimeter. Otherwise, PVC windows may fog up due to temperature differences. Foamed polystyrene can be used as a heater, which is glued with a layer about 5 mm thick. Then, it is also covered with plaster.

Outside the windows, the walls are affected - about 5-10 cm are also plastered. The corners are leveled with a spatula.

Little trick: if during the dismantling / installation of the window, the corners of the opening were severely damaged, you can align it using a perforated aluminum corner. A piece of the required size is simply pressed into the still damp plaster, and then allowed to dry and puttied. The corner looks like new!

The evenness of the resulting surface is periodically checked with a building level.

After application, each layer is thoroughly dried, after which it is primed 1 or 2 times.

After applying the plaster, the entire surface is sanded with sandpaper (work is performed only after complete drying).

The final step is simple:

1. The resulting surface is primed
2. Then putty (the layer should not exceed 3 mm, if you need to make more than one - each is dried and primed separately)
3. Sanded with fine sandpaper
4. Joints are coated with sealant
5. Paint the resulting slopes in the desired color

Drywall Wisdom

The main thing in working with drywall is not to forget: measure seven times, then cut off! Therefore, in advance, remove all the necessary dimensions for preparing future slopes - height and width. It is better to double-check everything at this stage than to buy the missing sheet later. Drywall is a fertile material for cutting - you can redraw the layouts of the blanks several times, making the most of the surface.

finishing the slopes of windows with plasterboard sheets

Recommendation: you need to cut drywall in three stages - first, the first layer of cardboard is cut along the markup with a sharp knife, then the gypsum core is broken with a gentle blow from the other side, and lastly, the second layer of cardboard is cut.

Quite often, blanks are cut out a little with a margin, so that it is possible to adjust the dimensions during the work. However, if the wall is uneven, the most accurate dimensions are cut out - all irregularities can later be plastered.

Do-it-yourself installation of drywall slopes is possible in two ways - with and without the construction of a frame.

The frame is not used when there is a sufficiently strong base. Drywall in this case is attached to it with self-tapping screws, for additional fixation, construction adhesives (special for drywall) are used. Drying time with this method is about 3 days.

Attention! Construction adhesives dry very quickly, so prepare everything before starting work. necessary materials!

All voids between the sheets and the wall must either be foamed or insulated with any other material.

When mounting using a frameless method, it is imperative to use spacers so that the resulting structure does not lead in different directions during the drying process.

For the manufacture of the frame, a guide profile is used. You can ask a window manufacturing company - very often they sell the necessary materials, or you can buy an L-profile at any hardware store.

Attachment points of the guide profile - the perimeter of the window and the joints of drywall. Before fixing the slopes, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation - the best option in this case is mineral wool. After that, you can start fixing the cut blanks to the profile with self-tapping screws.

finishing slopes with a frame method

After collecting the main structure, all the cracks, joints are carefully puttied, then the surface is polished. The joints of window blocks and slopes are pasted over with a masking tape, on which a special acrylic putty is applied.

Painting of the made slopes can be carried out after complete drying of putty and putty - not earlier than in 12-14 hours.

To make the finished window look neat, glue the junction of the slope and the wall with a plastic corner.

Plastic perfection

The most logical thing for plastic windows is to trim the slopes with plastic. You can use both thin plastic and sandwich panels. The only difference during installation is that thin plastic is attached immediately to the base, otherwise it will easily bend and ruin appearance window.

For work you will need:

1. PVC panels ( optimal size– length 6 meters, thickness 7 mm)
2. U-shaped starting bar
3. F-bar
4. Wooden lath 1-1.5 cm thick and 3-6 cm wide
5. Special construction stapler (staple size 6-8 mm)
6. Construction adhesive, sealant
7. Self-tapping screws, "fleas", small dowels

The advantage of mounting from PVC fabric is that there is no need to somehow additionally prepare the surface for work. In addition, perhaps to make additional steam and heat insulation. The materials are the same - mineral wool, any insulation, polyurethane foam.

You can additionally treat the wall with a special antiseptic solution, then even under the most favorable conditions, mold will not develop. It is under plastic slopes that it settles the fastest, especially if during installation the gaps into which moisture gets into are left unsealed.

The work plan will be as follows:

Installation of the initial profile - U-shaped bar. It is fixed around the perimeter of the window opening with self-tapping screws.

Then, over the entire surface, a crate is made of wooden slats fixed with dowels.

The gap between the top rail and the side rails should be 8-10 mm. This is where the panel will be inserted.

Work begins with the top panel. A piece of the required length and width is cut out of PVC panels. One end of the cut blank is inserted into the profile, and the other is screwed to the wooden rail with “flea” screws or a construction stapler. All work is carried out according to the level, if necessary, wooden dies are placed.

After that, they proceed to the side slopes, PVC panels on which are attached according to the same principle.

The edges are closed with an F-shaped bar, which also forms the casing. It is attached with construction adhesive. To prevent the bar from falling off while the glue dries, it is fixed for 2-3 hours with construction tape.

In order for the platband to look beautiful, the F-shaped bar is cut as follows: measure the height of the window (for the side platband), and then cut off the narrow part of the bar by a few centimeters. From the place where they began to cut off, they cut off an angle of 45 0 (this place will be glued to the wall. The same is done with the upper casing (the width of the window is measured for it and the cuts are made in two directions).

After assembling all the slopes, the joints are sealed. To do this, use a sealant, which is carefully leveled with a small rubber spatula.

Last secret

The disadvantages of the above method of mounting plastic slopes with your own hands include the fact that the P-profile is very noticeable. It is rarely possible to ideally match the color of the panel and the profile.

However, there is an installation option without using the initial profile.

For the most painstaking, we can offer the following sequence of work:

1. A gap is made in the mounting foam around the window frame. A sharp knife is fine for this. The width of the gap should be about 1 mm, the depth - about 10 mm.
2. As in the previous version, a crate is made
3. But the slope blank is inserted with a spike into the nest you cut out. Its opposite end is also fixed with screws.

Further, everything is carried out according to the previously proposed plan. After all the work on ennobling the window opening has been completed, you can remove the protective film from the windows (you didn’t forget - it’s still on them). Do-it-yourself installation of slopes of plastic windows with your own hands is quite simple, you just have to want and everything will work out!

When installing new windows, attention should be paid not only to the quality of the profiles and the reliability of the structure, but also to the appearance. Even the best window system can spoil the interior of the room if the window slopes are not installed.

As a rule, this work is performed by professional installers. However, with the skills hand tool and building materials, you can give the window a noble appearance yourself.

Installing slopes of plastic windows (a video of the process is attached to the article) is an important stage of installation.

The profile of PVC profile windows is much narrower than that of wooden frame, as a result, after the replacement, there is no closed space around the entire perimeter. Slopes after installing plastic windows are just necessary in order to eliminate this drawback, as well as increase thermal insulation.
Installing slopes on PVC windows can be done in various ways. Traditionally, plaster is used for this, but with the help of plastic, this can be done faster and easier. This is a material with a structure that is homogeneous in relation to the profile of the windows, and therefore it is suitable for the aesthetic design of window opening elements. You can get a perfectly even and smooth surface, which will be easy to care for: just wipe it with a damp cloth from time to time.

Tools and materials for slope installation

The technology for installing the slopes of plastic windows provides for the implementation of this work the next day after the installation of the window unit. By that time, the mounting foam has already completely hardened and its excess along the edges can be cut off with a sharp knife. In addition to this tool, you will need:

• — plastic lining 8 mm thick - 6 m is needed for one window;
• - plastic U-shaped starting strip and F-ka - a special profile strip for edge decoration;
• - wooden lath 10-15 mm thick;
• - insulation (sheet of extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool slab or other material);
• - building level, tape measure;
• - a hammer drill with a drill function and a screwdriver;
• - self-tapping screws of various lengths (usually - 4.5 and 95 mm);
• - construction stapler, metal scissors;
• - white silicone

Step by step work

Installation of slopes on wooden windows

Making a window opening after installing wooden windows requires a different approach. Plastic is not recommended: it is not combined with the natural texture of wood. Eliminate all surface imperfections with plaster or use slopes made of wood. But this method is quite expensive, and in addition, wood processing should include drying with strict adherence to technology (the material should not “lead” due to dampness and temperature changes) and treatment with an antiseptic composition.
It is rational to use moisture-resistant drywall.

The technology for installing slopes on windows using this material is simple (the video "Installing slopes on windows" clearly displays the process).

First, the side surface of the window opening is cleaned of dust, carefully treated with a primer. Measurements are taken and the necessary details are cut out of drywall. Cutting this material is simple: an incision is made along the drawn line with a sharp knife, and then the sheet is sharply bent, leaning on the edge of the table.

Installation of plasterboard slopes

Drywall is fastened to the surfaces to be finished with a special adhesive, for the preparation of which a dry mixture is mixed with water in a volumetric container. Next - point by point.

Hide

Do you want to replace / install slopes on plastic windows, and calling a master is expensive? Or is your goal to follow the "wow" installers? In any case, you need to be knowledgeable in this matter. See the main stages of work, explaining the photo and video.

Option 1: Installation with Starter Profile

To make slopes on plastic windows in this way, to you materials will be required: plastic panels or sandwich panels, plastic initial U-profile, mounting brackets (or F-profile instead), wooden slats, construction adhesive, silicone sealant.

Also need tools: tape measure, building marker, screwdriver, knife-cutter (popularly just a wallpaper knife), screws for plastic panels - “fleas”, small dowel-nails.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic slopes on windows takes place in several stages. They will seem simple to you if you have ever installed plastic panels. If not, don't be fooled either!

1. Using self-tapping screws, fix the initial profile along the perimeter of the window profile - you will insert panels into it.

Then, along the perimeter of the opening, use dowels to make a crate of wooden slats. Between the top rail and the side rails, you need to leave a gap of 8-10 mm - the panel will enter there.

2. Installation of slopes on plastic windows starts from the top panel. First, along the length (and width, if necessary), it is cut with a cutter. Then, one end is inserted into the profile, and the other is screwed to the rail with “fleas” by the protruding end (thorn). Do not worry about the appearance - you will hide the hats of the screws under the corner.

After doing the installation of the side slopes of plastic windows.

So that the platbands do not fall off, they are fixed with construction tape for a couple of hours.

4. The final stage of the installation of internal slopes is the sealing of the joints. The sealant is applied with a gun. And then level with a small rubber spatula.

That's the whole instruction - freely manage in half a day. Yes, and smoke 10 times in time!

If you need more information see video: Installation of slopes of plastic windows

Option 2: installation without start profile

There is a drawback to fixing the slopes of plastic windows in the first way: the U-profile is very clearly visible after installation. And if you consider that it is sometimes very difficult to choose the colors of the slope and profile ...

Slot in the foam - instead of the initial profile

1. With a wallpaper knife, make a slit in the mounting foam around the window frame. It should be 1 mm wide and 1 cm deep.

2. After the construction of the crate, insert the panels with a spike into the resulting nest. And fasten the opposite end with screws.

3. If you use panels without fasteners, such as sandwich panels, you can make the spike yourself.

To make a spike, the sandwich panel is cut with a wallpaper knife first across And then along - to separate the insulation and the bottom layer. A homemade spike for attaching sandwich panels is ready!

On the side of the panel that will be adjacent to the window, draw a strip 1 cm wide. Then carefully cut along the line to cut through only the top layer and insulation. Make a slot from the end and remove the "excess". So, the bottom layer will remain intact. It is then inserted into a makeshift groove.

Otherwise, the technology for installing slopes No. 2 is similar to technology No. 1. So don't get confused.

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Installation of slopes of plastic windows

Among the numerous companies for the installation of plastic windows and doors, it is very difficult to find those that would immediately deal with slopes. During the time spent on finishing the slopes for one opening, company employees can install 4-5 windows and get a lot more money. And some types of slopes cannot be done within one day, the technology requires time for the material to harden and dry, which further discourages them from engaging in such services. In addition, the very need to install slopes changes the algorithm of action of the "installers" of plastic windows. They must take out old windows very carefully so as not to create large destructions of the existing finish, carefully consider the specific place for mounting the frame, taking into account the thickness and material of the walls. No slopes - no problems, here is the method of installing plastic windows by company employees.

Another nuisance for window installers is that if you make slopes yourself, you need to control the distance between the frame and the window opening. In this way, further installation can be facilitated. decorative elements window opening. A typical installation only requires them to drill four dowel holes in vertical walls openings, fixing the frame under the level and foaming the cracks. After that, the craftsmen receive their money, and the owner is forced to hire another team of builders to finishing windows or do it yourself.

Important. If windows are installed by company employees, then be sure to require them to thoroughly clean the surfaces of the window opening from dust and dirt, and moisten them with plenty of water before foaming.

In most cases, such work is not done, the fixation strength of the structure is significantly reduced. Later, under the influence of wind loads or during the opening / closing of the cocoon, the frames loosen a little, cracks appear near the slopes and frames you made. Eliminating them is useless; to eliminate the marriage, you will have to strengthen the fastenings of the frames. In terms of labor intensity, these works are no different from the installation of plastic windows. In essence, you will have to do anew the work for which the money has already been paid.

Only inexperienced developers may think that there is no difference between internal and external slopes. It exists, and quite significant. Understanding the features of the arrangement of external slopes will make it possible to avoid mistakes, improve their appearance and increase operating time.

As you can see, the installation of external slopes is not such a simple matter, work very carefully and carefully.

Prices for platbands and extensions for windows and doors

Trim and trim for windows and doors

Preparatory work

So, the plastic window is installed, the mounting foam is frozen. The factory polyethylene film on the frames and sashes has not been removed. If not, then you will have to take measures to protect surfaces from contamination and mechanical damage.

We will consider several options for manufacturing external slopes for plastic windows, starting with the most practical and reliable - from a cement-sand mortar.

Plastering slopes on brick houses

Before starting work, decide what the ebb will be: from galvanized iron or standard plastic.

The algorithm for its installation depends on the material of manufacture. The frame of plastic windows has a special groove in the lower part, an ebb must be inserted into it. "Bait" it and see at what angle it lies, at what distance from the walls. Make marks, they will be useful to you during the plastering of the lower slope.

Remove the same dimensions on the sides and top of the opening, find out the required thickness of the plaster. The larger it is, the more difficult it will be to make a slope. After taking measurements, analyzing the condition and developing a scheme for the production of work, you can begin to plaster the slopes.

Prepare the cement-sand mixture based on about 2.5–3 parts of sand per part of cement, but no more. The solution must be greasy, otherwise, with repeated freezing / freezing, it will begin to crumble. Will have to redo or use various ways surface protection. In addition, an increased amount of cement increases the coefficient of adhesion of the mortar to the walls, and this is very important for slopes.

Step 1. Protect the surface of glass panes from contamination. Use plastic wrap and tape for this. Cover all places where the mass can get. Stick the adhesive tape firmly so that the film does not fall off during operation.

Step 2 Cut off the foam that has protruded beyond the planes of the frame. If there are large gaps after foaming, close them. You can use a mortar or various sealants. Cut the foam with a sharp knife in continuous movements, avoid tearing. How better insulation- the less heat loss. But that's not all. If cold bridges form along the perimeter of the frame, then condensation appears on the slopes, which causes the reproduction of fungi and mold. Microorganisms not only adversely affect building construction and materials, but can also cause various allergic reactions.

Step 3. Prepare your tools. You will need a grout, a trowel, a plumb line or level, dowels, a spray gun or a brush to wet the surfaces with water.

Working tools

Masters often mention a bevel for slopes. This topic needs to be discussed in more detail. What is a malka and what is it used for?

Malka - a tool with which you can level the plaster under different angles. We have already said that slopes need to be made at obtuse angles, due to this, the window opening increases. Malka can be bought ready-made in the store, made independently or replaced with an elementary device.

The standard bevel consists of two metal strips connected by a hinge. After selecting the desired angle, the slats in the hinge are clamped with a screw. You can also make it from wooden planks, but this is a long time; for one-time work, it makes no sense to waste so much time for several windows.

If there is an irresistible desire to align the angles of the slopes with the help of a bevel, then you can make it from one board. One end is cut at the right angle, it will rest against the window frame. The second part of the stick slides along a guide board fixed to the wall. But there is another way to maintain the desired slope angle, which is used by all professionals. How they work, we will describe below. We assure you that this method allows you to achieve excellent quality and at the same time do not waste time at all on the manufacture of bevels or special devices.

It is advisable to pre-sprinkle the surface with cement-sand milk. This is the same solution, only very liquid. The milk will perform two tasks: it will moisten very dry bricks and increase the adhesion of the plaster to the surface.

Step 5 Mount the guide rail on the wall. To do this, you need to fix a thin board with absolutely even sides on the wall above the window opening. The side edge of the board should be horizontal, make the fastening with dowels, the holes in the wall will then be closed without any problems. Fasten it securely, it should not stagger and, moreover, fall off. One end of the rule will slide across the board.

Step 6 If you need to apply plaster of great thickness, then this should be done in several stages. Sketch the first layer about 2-3 cm thick, let it dry a little. Then throw on the second layer and so on until about a centimeter remains until the final alignment of the slope. Throw the solution with the back of the trowel, only throwing will ensure that all cracks on the surface are completely filled.

Important. Beginners often fail to throw, it’s not scary, learn, after a while experience will appear. But never try to smear the solution on the surface, nothing will come of this venture. You can slightly grease only the recesses obtained after throwing. But that's not how professionals work. They always throw, and for different purposes they take a different amount of solution.

Step 7 You can level the mass with a small or ordinary bar. We have already talked about Malk, now we will tell you how professionals work. They prepare an ordinary flat rail, the length should exceed the width of the slope by about 10 cm. As for the width, there is a special requirement here: it should not exceed the width of the gap from the sash to the end of the window frame. Further, the alignment of the solution on the upper slope is done as follows:

• one end of the rail rests against the frame, the side edge is pressed tightly against the sash. The second end of the rail will slide on the board;
• slowly move the rail along the board and sash in zigzag movements, the mass protruding beyond the thickness of the slope is leveled;
• in a place where there is a gap between the leaves, remove the rail from one leaf and install it on the next. Do not worry that after rearranging it, a small tubercle will remain, it is leveled with a grater without any problems.

Step 8 After the excess mass is pulled together by a rail, depressions of various parameters will inevitably remain on the surface. Large ones need to be repaired with a trowel. Take a little mass on a plywood stand, pick up small portions with the back of the trowel and close up the holes. The mass must be glued with force. Hold the plywood under the patched area, any excess mass will fall onto it.

Step 9 Wait 40-50 minutes for the mortar to harden. Once it has become a little stronger, start working with a trowel. Do not apply great efforts, work in a circular motion, constantly control the position of the working surface of the trowel (trowel). If the solution has hardened strongly, moisten it with water. Carefully work in the corners of the slopes. You can correct the corners with a trowel or a spatula, there is no difference. Use those tools that are more familiar and easier to work with.

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Now you can move on to vertical slopes. Before finishing the side, put the ebb in place. The technology of its installation depends on the type chosen. But for all cases, one condition must be observed - the protruding part of the ebb must fit tightly into a special seat on the frame plastic window. Take all measures to prevent water from double-glazed windows from entering the space between the frame and the ebb. For a guarantee, you can smear the seat with silicone.

Step 1. Install the tide in place, on the side surfaces of the window opening, mark the place of its position on the upper surface. Do not forget that the ebb must be installed at an angle for a reliable stack of water.

Step 2 Remove it, level the lower slope with a cement-sand mass at the level of the marked lines. During work, use the same tools that worked on the upper slope. You can not achieve special cleanliness of the surface, it will close anyway.

Step 3 After the mass hardens, install a low tide on the window. Cover it with a cloth or film from possible dirt or damage.

Now you can start finishing the side surfaces of the slopes. The algorithm for the production of works is almost no different. First, boards are installed on the sides, the position is leveled with a level or plumb line. Next, a solution is thrown, alignment is always done from the bottom up, so less mass falls on the ebb. It lingers on the surface of the rule and is thrown into the container.

Finishing work

On the second day, you can remove the guide boards. Remove the retaining nails or dowels, do not open the rail towards yourself, but carefully pull it away from the slopes, press it firmly against the wall. So you can avoid chipping fresh plaster.

There will definitely be small gaps under the board, close them with a trowel, smooth the surfaces with grout. After the slopes are completely dry, the surfaces can be painted with facade water-based paint (white or color) or made decorative plaster the same material as on the facade walls.

Plastic slopes

The option is rare, but has the right to life. The use of plastic slopes makes it possible to complete the production of slopes in one day. We do not recommend doing them for one reason - the service life of plastic slopes is about 15 years, do you really want to do it again after this time construction work? The slopes are made of plastic panels for external work, the color and texture should be in harmony with the appearance of the facade walls of the building.

Under the plastic slopes, you need to make a supporting frame. It can be made from rolled metal or wooden slats. There is no fundamental difference, lumber is reliably protected from the effects of precipitation, the service life is the same as that of metal. We will consider the manufacture of simple option frame - from wooden slats.

Step 1. Pick up the slats of the desired length and thickness. They must fit into the space between the wall and the window frame. If necessary, correct the surface of the wall a little or reduce the thickness of the rails in some places. Reiki must be fixed along the perimeter of the slope: at the bottom and at the top and on both sides of the opening. If the plastic windows are large, then put an additional few rails on all planes. Pre-fix them with liquid nails, foam the cracks mounting foam. After the foam has hardened, to increase the stability of the slats, you can fix it with several dowels to the wall. But it is not necessary to do this, the frame will hold on very firmly. The foam that comes out after solidification will be cut off.

Step 2 Install guide boards on the walls above and on both sides of the opening. How this is done is described above.

Step 3 Put the tide in place. Installation technology depends on the type of product.

Step 4 Check Position wooden frame. All slats must lie in the same plane, side, lower and upper slopes at an angle. Keep the side slopes vertical.

Step 5. Take exact measurements, prepare plastic panels and decorative corners.

Practical advice. It is better to start installing panels from the side of fixation. At this point, the panels have a beautiful rounding, nothing will have to be additionally sealed. Cut off a thin plastic strip to which staples or studs are fixed, and press this edge against the frame.

Step 6 Measure and cut each panel separately. You can cut with a mounting knife, electric jigsaw or grinder. This operation is best done on a cutting machine. ceramic tiles- the angle is precisely adjusted, the cut is perfectly even "factory".

Step 7 Fix the plastic slopes with a stapler, small nails or self-tapping screws in the place provided by the manufacturer. Press the panels firmly, do not leave gaps. If the window large sizes, then the slope is additionally glued to the wooden transverse slats with liquid nails.

Step 8 Close the corners with decorative corners, fix them with liquid nails. Cut the corners at the joints at an angle of 45 °.

This option for making slopes is best used if the whole house is finished plastic panels. Even during the work on finishing the walls, consider the possibility of making a frame for slopes.

Council of professionals. It is very difficult for novice craftsmen to cut off the corners exactly at an angle of 45 °, there is always a gap at the junction. Of course, it can be covered with a sealant or silicone, but the correction is noticeable, the appearance worsens. We advise you to cut only one corner at a 45° angle, and the second at a 90° angle. From the corner at 45 °, the lower platform of the square is cut off, and the thin upper platform overlaps on the cut one at 90 °. This technique completely eliminates the possibility of gaps, there are no joints, the elements overlap. At whatever angle you cut, the cut is always located on the bottom whole area.

Prices for plastic slopes

Plastic slopes

How to mount slopes on special profiles

For the manufacture of the slope, you will need plastic profiles and sandwich panels.

The dimensions of the panels are selected taking into account the parameters of the window. During the installation process, pieces are cut from the whole panel according to the size of vertical and horizontal slopes. You can cut with a grinder with a metal disc, an electric jigsaw, a mounting knife or other tools. If burrs form during circumcision, they are removed with a knife edge or sandpaper.

Step 1. A plastic U-shaped profile is screwed around the perimeter of the window frame. Carefully check the horizontal and vertical position. The ends of plastic slopes are installed in this profile. Use small self-tapping screws to secure.

Important. It must be remembered that the violation of the integrity of the metal profile of the window frame with self-tapping screws negatively affects its performance.

First, fix the two extreme screws, after checking the position of the element, screw in the fasteners every 15–20 cm.

Step 2 Make sure the dimensions are correct. All is well - insert the slope into the profile. To facilitate the work, use a piece of plastic. Insert it into the gap between the panel and the profile and gradually move it along the panel, press on the end. The element will fit into the groove along its entire length without much effort.

Step 3 Stick strips of masking tape on the second (free) end of the slope and leave free pieces. With their help, then it will be fixed to the wall before foaming. The adhesive tape will not allow the slopes to bend under the influence of expanding foam.

Step 4 Carefully seal the gap between the slope and the wall, set the elements in a horizontal position and fix its position with free pieces of adhesive tape. Don't forget to wet the surfaces. Water not only improves grip, but also speeds up the hardening of the foam.

Prices for polyurethane sealant

Polyurethane sealant

Step 5 Cut off any excess foam. Depending on the material and technology of finishing the external walls, install decorative corners or platbands.

That's all, according to the same algorithm, you can finish all the remaining plastic windows, regardless of their size and the method of opening / closing.

wooden slopes

Such slopes are installed on houses made of rounded logs without additional external cladding or on houses made of ordinary timber, external walls which are trimmed with natural clapboard.

For the street, you can use two options for slopes: from natural lining or furniture board. The furniture board is made of glued boards - the probability of deformations under the influence of precipitation is excluded. Wide boards are sure to warp and are not suitable. If they are firmly fixed on the frame, then there will be no warping, but very deep cracks will form. In this regard, it is not recommended to use them as a material for the manufacture of slopes. For example, we will consider a variant of a furniture board with a thickness of about 1 cm.

Step 1. Take the dimensions, cut off the slope blanks according to them. Do everything with maximum precision, furniture boards are expensive. Use only serviceable and adjusted tools, observe safety precautions. Woodworking machines and tools are among the most dangerous mechanisms, injuries from them are very serious. Sketching slopes can be quite complex, all sides at different angles, etc. If you have little experience in taking measurements, make a template out of cardboard. Adjust its dimensions several times until it takes suitable look. Using the template, cut out the side and top slopes for each plastic window.

Step 2 Set the tide, do not forget to make a slope. To increase the strength under the drain, it is recommended to make a frame. For manufacturing, it is better to use slats 20 × 50 mm, be sure to soak them with an antiseptic. If not, dry the slats well in a warm room or under a fan and coat them several times with ordinary vegetable oil, it perfectly protects against putrefactive processes.

Step 3. Try on the slope, install it back to back in the gap between the plastic window frame and the wall. Align its position according to the level.

Step 4 Fasten the wooden slope in place. To do this, you need small self-tapping screws or cloves and trimming rails about ten centimeters long. Nail the slats to the slope and the log house, always at the top and bottom, the distance between the fixing points is no more than 20 cm. necessary condition for the next operation.

Step 5 Wet the gap between the slope and the wall well with a spray gun. Fill it with mounting foam. If the width of the slope is large, then you will have to foam in two steps. In order for the foam not to bend the wooden slope, we made it securely fixed with slats.

Step 6 After hardening, cut off the remaining foam, check the strength of the fixation of the slopes. Practice shows that no additional fasteners need to be done anymore.

Step 7 Prepare cashiers. Wooden slopes must be trimmed with platbands. Nail them to the slopes with studs or self-tapping screws, the attachment points can be puttied.

When choosing plastic materials for slopes, be sure to pay attention to UV resistance. Never work with plastic interior spaces, for street slopes it is categorically unsuitable.

Metal porch: installation instructions