Do-it-yourself wooden knight's shield. How to make a furniture board with your own hands. Assembling the parts of the shield. Umbon, handle, rings
Novice furniture makers sometimes face a problem - where to buy furniture board. Factory samples are not always suitable for the intended design, but blanks can be made independently.
For the manufacture of shields, you will need special equipment: a planer, grinders (belt and surface grinders). Choose boards for work of the same breed, without knots, dried, with minimal warping. The best way- buy a log and saw it into pieces of the required size. The cutting angle is 90 degrees. Pine, oak, birch are suitable for the manufacture of shields.
Wooden panels are very practical - they do not deform, have slight shrinkage, the structure of the tree is not damaged, so the investment in the production of lumber quickly pays off.
When encountering enemies in the game, you probably thought about such methods of protection that would allow you to minimize the damage inflicted on the player. And then you will learn how to make a shield in Minecraft and color it. The fact is that this option is really very useful, but not used by all players. Just for the purpose of increased protection of the character, the developers provided for the possibility of creating a shield.
What is a shield?
The item has a certain durability, which is spent on repelling enemy attacks and can be restored by repainting or repairing.
Shields are most effective in close combat, and their use significantly affects the character's movement speed, greatly slowing him down.
How to create a shield in Minecraft?
According to the rules of the game, to make an item with more than four ingredients involved, you must use a workbench. It allows you to increase the number of crafting slots up to nine, which provides a significant expansion of the range of products obtained.
To create a shield, you need one ingot of iron and six units of planks.
The latter, by the way, are divided into several separate types: oak light and dark, birch, tropical, acacia and, finally, spruce. Each of them has its own shade and name, formed, as you might guess, from the name of the "parent" tree. Due to the fact that they all have the same properties, it is allowed to use any of their varieties.
How to color a shield in Minecraft?
Since the shield is not only a means of protection, but also an original accessory, it can be painted. Unlike the crafting of the item itself, the application of the pattern is carried out both on the workbench and from the inventory. This is done by placing a flag in one cell, and in another, in fact, a shield.
As for the flag, it is completely consumed during the transfer of the image, or, in other words, disappears. Its secondary production requires a workbench, one stick, and six multi-colored wool. The resulting pattern will depend on the selected shade of the latter and their layout.
It should also be noted that the surface of the shield must be clean in order to apply the pattern. In other words, repainting the item is not allowed.
Conclusion
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The main purpose of this article is to fill the existing gap and make life easier for those who are just starting to act in the field of historical reconstruction. It is recommended that you first read the translation of Peter Bitson's article at the addresses above, and then use this article as a guide to action.
Material.
The shield field can be made on the basis of two options: from a furniture shield (the closest to reality, but less durable), or a plywood sheet. The furniture board is a rectangle glued from boards with a width of 1m, a length of 2m and a thickness of 2cm. Given the thickness of real shields, you will need to plan a wooden blank with a planer by almost one and a half times 6-8mm. Or use plywood with a predetermined thickness. The diameter of the workpiece can vary from 80 to 90 cm.
The handle must be made of a wooden plank with a D-shaped section. The length is adjusted based on the diameter of the shield, so that the indent from the edge is about 5 cm. The handle can be made the same width along the entire length, or you can reduce it to a cone - from the center to its two ends. The thickness and height are no more than 3-3.5 cm. On the Carolingian miniatures there are images of round shields with a figured metal handle (Maine), Anglo-Saxon material also confirms the use of this type of handle (Maine).
The central place on the shield is occupied by an umbon - an iron cap covering the handle from the outside of the shield. For the Viking era, umbons have a fairly similar appearance throughout Europe, differing in the details of the manufacture of the cone itself and the design of the field. At the end of the 19th century, a typology (Ryuge) was developed which is still used today. Umbon can be made independently by cold forging on a mandrel from a sheet of iron 2-2.5 mm.
The edge of the shield was covered with a leather strip 2-3 mm thick and 5-6 cm wide. The joints of the pieces were closed with iron rectangular fittings 1 mm thick with dimensions of 2 by 7 cm. According to the materials of the Birka burial ground, these fittings were riveted with 2 rivets.
The outer side of the shield must be glued with leather or cloth (burlap). The shield from the Tyrian peat bog was glued with leather on both sides.
Again, according to the materials of the Birka burial ground, along with the finds of shields, finds of one or two iron rings on brackets located at the same distance from the umbon, apparently necessary for attaching a leather shoulder strap, can be traced.
Delusions.
Before you start making your first shield, you need to avoid the most common mistakes made:
Additional planks.
In addition to the handle, the shield field was not reinforced with additional longitudinal strips riveted with a large number of rivets. Firstly, there is no archaeological evidence for this fact, and secondly, this addition does not add strength to the shield, but only makes it heavier. The handle of the shield was the only bar that fastened the field of the shield and the umbon. The use of rivets for fastening these parts is still controversial. Usually, the umbon was fastened with nails bent inward. The handle of the Tyrian shield was tied to the field with a rope.
Shield thickness.
The optimal thickness of the shield is 6-8 mm: you should not make a shield from plywood more than 10 mm. This adds weight, turning the shield from a mobile, active defense into another heavy item on your arm. Real artifacts give us an idea of the shield as a defense for one fight, tests show that the shield cannot withstand arrows and darts, powerful chopping blows with an ax destroy the edge of the shield, even breaking through the handle. This fragility is compensated by its maneuverability and ease of dismantling metal parts to a new field.
Shield shackles.
It is not necessary to tie the edge of the shield with a metal strip, this again will increase the weight and will not greatly save the edge of the shield from destruction. The shields of the Viking era had only a leather strip along the edging, additionally fastened with metal brackets. In the only Birka burial, the bindings are riveted close to each other, covering one sector of the shield.
Shield strap.
The belt was attached to steel rings, which in turn were attached to the handle. The most common mistake is mounting the belt to the backboard field with a rivet and washer, followed by installing the buckle and the end of the belt. Buckles and even more so (richly decorated) tips have never been found together with the remains of the shield. Apparently, the belt was a single one, or its length was regulated using a series of holes on one side of the belt and a forked tail on the other.
Decorations.
Archaeological finds of shields give us a poor choice of decoration of the outer part: Gokstad - alternation of yellow and black paint, Gnezdovo - ocher-red on the remains of a tree on the rim of one shield. The Tyrian shield has leather pasting, which, most likely, did not have a pattern. The pictorial sources on shields are much richer (one can give fairly examples of miniatures with the reconstruction of the drawing throughout Europe). In addition to these sources, drawings on models of ornamental shields can be used. The basis of the pattern is usually the so-called "Segner's wheel", or a cross. The most common misconception is the transfer of a real zoomorphic or geometric pattern decorating any object of material culture (wickerwork on dishes, spoons, embroidery, architecture, book miniatures) to the subject of military life. Do not forget that the ornament for our ancestors had more practical significance than just as an element of decor.
Shield making. Shield field.
First you need to cut a circle out of plywood, with the usual cutting of a sheet, you can get two blanks with a diameter of 89 cm. For marking, use a carnation driven into the center of your future shield, a thread tied to it with a pencil equal to the shield radius. It is also necessary to cut a hole under the arm in the center of the shield. The diameter of the hole should be slightly larger than the inner diameter of your (already finished) umbon. All cut edges must be carefully sanded. Inner part The shield is lined onto boards with a dummy knife along the longitudinal pattern of plywood and treated with stain. If the surface is assembled from a furniture board, then the texture and direction of the boards will appear after staining.
After that, it is necessary to paste over the outer side of the shield with a cloth, for this it is necessary to apply a layer of PVA first on the plane, then put a wet (!) Fabric on the shield and apply a few more layers of glue on top. The last layer will be the shield pattern - for this you add a coloring pigment or tempera paint to the glue itself and paint the surface.
Umbon.
While the shield is drying, you need to make an umbon. With an abundance of modern tools, this will not be difficult to do. The first way is to buy a ready-made, hot-formed umbon, which can be endlessly rearranged from the old shield to the new one. And the second way - independent production. To do this, you will need: a round-faced drift hammer, a small concave steel cup / ingot, or a wooden chopping block with a recess in the center. A workpiece with a diameter of 16-18 cm is cut out of sheet iron with a thickness of 2-2.5 mm, then fields of 2 cm are outlined along the edge with a caliper. You need to knock out the sphere with a series of blows from the edge to the center. Each cycle of impacts will allow you to knock out the sphere by about 5mm. Given the required depth of the umbon 6-8 cm. After the second hour of knocking out, you will finally get the idea that it was better to buy it.
Edge stitching.
After the fabric on the face of the shield has dried, it will be necessary to cut off excess pieces of fabric around the edges. Then we will proceed to sheathing the edge of the shield with a leather strip. With a shield thickness of 8 mm, a strip of leather 5 cm wide will suffice. By trying on the strip on the edge, mark the line of the edge of the strip along the entire shield. Further, retreating from this line 5 mm to the outside, line with an awl at regular intervals (10-12 mm) the future holes for the firmware. If you chose solid stitching, then one line of holes will be enough, if overcasting, then it will be necessary to step back from the 5 mm line inside the shield and mark the holes in between. Next, you need to drill all the holes with a diameter of 2 mm in a circle, apply a strip and pierce the holes for the firmware in it with an awl, so that they coincide with those drilled in the shield field. You can sew a strip with thick linen or waxed threads.
Fittings installation.
For fittings, you can use a sheet of iron 1 mm thick, from which it is necessary to cut 6-8 identical plates 2 cm wide and 7 cm long (with a shield thickness of 8 mm and a leather cover of 2 mm - when these dimensions change, the length of the bracket may vary). 4 holes are drilled in the workpiece for future riveting, and the bracket is tightly crimped with pliers along the edge of the shield. After that, holes are drilled in the shield itself, rivets are inserted and riveted from the inside. If the leather strip on the edging consists of several pieces, then the brackets are placed at each joint, if the strip is solid, then 4-6 brackets can be placed along the sectors of the shield at an equal distance from each other.
Assembling the parts of the shield. Umbon, handle, rings.
Before mounting the handle, it is necessary to fix rings on it - belt holders. The rings are bent on a mandrel with a diameter of 2 cm from 4 mm wire. Then strips 4-5 mm wide are cut from one extra bracket. They are bent around the ring and inserted into the holes drilled in the handle, and the remaining shanks are unbent on the reverse side. Their location may vary, the main thing is that they are equidistant from the umbon.
Next, the handle and the umbon itself are mounted. It is usually attached to 4 nails or rivets, two of which also pass through the handle. For the handle itself, two more rivets are needed at the ends, although each board of a lined shield can be riveted. The final touch is the installation of a belt with ties and sewing a linen cover for the shield.
Hello. Today we will talk about how you can make a shield with your own hands for, or simply for the purpose of reconstructing ancient weapons and armor. Previously, we have already considered the material about and, as well as weaved. Now the turn has come for the front line of defense of the medieval warrior - the shield. The shield must be not only durable and impact resistant, but also lightweight. Therefore, think about what kind of tree, and we will make a shield from it, you will use it. by the most the best option for the manufacture of the shield will be birch. This type of wood has not only good viscosity and elasticity, but also lightness, in relation to other alternative species. The next step is to determine the size of the shield. A shield with a diameter of 600-700 mm is considered optimal. Such a shield will fully protect the forearm (from the elbow to the hand) and at the same time will not be too heavy.
Manufacturing technology of a medieval shield
Boards for the shield must be well dried, have a straight-layer structure and not have large knots. So, the shield manufacturing technology is as follows. Take a birch board measuring 2100x200x40, already pre-planed, and saw it into four parts. You should end up with two 620mm pieces and two pieces of what's left. Carefully cut and tightly fit the side edges of these boards to each other. From these pieces we will glue the base of the shield. Use plasticized PVA glue. Leave to dry overnight.
Now we need to plan the planes of the shield blank in order to smooth out the joints of the boards by removing the steps. Next, we draw a circle with a radius of 300 mm and cut it out with a jigsaw.
Next, we need to make our shield blank convex. To do this, on the one hand, we plan with a planer, deepening from the edge to the middle, and on the other hand, on the contrary, from the middle to the edge. As a result, we should get a kind of wooden lens with a thickness of 15-17 mm.
Well wooden base homemade medieval shield we have ready. Now let's get to the metal.
In the center of the shield there should be a convex bowl called an umbon. An umbon can be knocked out of a round metal plate 1.5-2.5 mm thick by placing it on a lead pillow and tapping it with a hammer from the center along a divergent spiral until a convex dome with a diameter of 150-200 mm and a depth of 50 mm is obtained. Bend the edges on an anvil 15-20 mm wide. This is how cold forging works. But in order to sink the cup to such a depth, you need to use hot forging, heating the metal gas burner or in until red, upsetting the metal in an annular mandrel or matrix. However, if blacksmithing is new to someone, he can order an umbon in a blacksmith, or buy something similar in a store.
Now we need to iron the edge of our medieval shield. To do this, we again need an anvil and a hammer to bend a steel strip two millimeters thick along a radius of three hundred millimeters in a plane. We put the strip on the anvil and begin to flatten one of its edges with a heavy hammer, periodically checking its curvature with a cardboard template. If your strip is made of ductile metal, then cold forging will be enough for you. But still, it is better to do it by heating the strip with a gas burner to redness and letting it cool slowly. After that, we continue to beat on it with a hammer. It is not necessary to bend the strip around the entire circumference of the shield. It can be divided into several separate parts. That will be a little easier. Although the work is quite hard. We adjust the metal to the shield so that there is an edge for bending to the thickness of the shield. A ninety-degree edge bend can be done on an anvil. To do this, we change one of the “lips” of the vise to a plate, the upper edge of which is curved along a radius of 300 mm, that is, along the circumference of our shield.
We carefully adjust the finished edging of the shield ribs, with each other and attach to the shield with bolts, which we will later replace with rivets. We also fasten the umbon to the middle. Now we need to work on the rest of the shield details. We need to cut out twelve overlays for the shield from sheet iron using a jigsaw. The photo clearly shows what shape they should be. But you can show your imagination and make something of your own. The plates can be riveted to the shield with furniture bolts. We rivet from the inside of the shield, putting wide washers on the bolt rod. We saw off the rod so that it is exposed above the surface of the shield by two, three millimeters.
Now it remains for us to make the elements of holding the shield. To do this, we need to carve a wooden one (you can use a copper or brass tube) and rivet it from the inside of the shield. The belt loop for the forearm is made of leather 70 mm wide in the center and 40 mm at the edges. We attach it to the shield also with the help of through rivets. But the pillow for the forearm can be screwed to the shield with rounded bolts.
Well, that's probably all. Our medieval shield is completely ready. You can role-play or hang it on the wall as a decoration next to your other remodeled pieces. Good luck!
The article is a rewrite. Photos taken from the book "Reconstruction of ancient weapons"
Before starting the instructions you need to prepare materials:
First of all, we need a sheet of plywood. Then you need to draw a silhouette, after which you need to cut out a circle. We choose the size of the circle ourselves. This process can be organized in a more rational way. You can have a rope, a nail and a pencil handy. Thus, we can get a unique compass. To do this, you just need to drive a nail on one side, and tie a pencil on the other side of the rope. We need a compass to draw a circle. But you can cut this circle with a saw or a jigsaw. After that, you need to make a hole in the middle of the circle. The hole should be the size of a fist. By the way, then the hole must be closed with an umbon. In addition, you still need to make 2 straps (holding) and of course the handles. As materials, you can use oak, beech, birch or pine. Attach them as shown in the picture. For this we need rivets that can be anodized if desired. The diameter of the rivets should be more than 6-7 mm like a cap and more than 3.5-4 mm like a rod. You also need to remove the extra wire cutters and rivet.
After that, we move on to pasting the shield. For this, of course, we need glue. It will be better if we have PVA or casein glue. If we have leather pasting, then it is advisable to use fish glue. We also need leather and fabric to wrap around the outside of our shield. This process should be done like this. First you need to impregnate the fabric, and then stick it on the shield. You can also paint the surface of the picture with paint. Then, using a rotating drill, you need to make holes. And it is necessary to do this from the edge of a small circle. This process must be implemented in order to fix the umbon. In order to knock out an umbon, we need a steel blank, the thickness of which should be from 1.5 to 3 mm. If the thickness of the steel billet is 3 mm, then the umbon must be knocked out in stages. In this case, we have 2 stages. Moreover, it is necessary to knock out annealing, which should be intermediate. To do this, you can use both a gas heater and gas stove. There are several types of shields. Fist and elbow. In order for the edge of the shield not to crumble, it is necessary to upholster it with mettal or carnations, which should be small. The fact is that large carnations usually break through, and this is not desirable. We also need 2 bolts to attach the umbone and handle. By the way, this must be done through the shield. The umbon must be attached from the outside, but the handle is the opposite. To make everything reliable, you can fix the umbon with 2 more bolts. By the way, if you do not wrap the handle with leather, then it can rub your hand. Therefore, it is necessary to wrap. And after that, it is already necessary to flash the skin, but this should be done only after the lining on the shield has dried, which should be ready. By the way, it is necessary to flash with a nylon thread or linen, and this must be done around the entire perimeter of our shield. But the stitch pitch should be from 1.5 to 2.5 cm. We also need an electric drill with a drill to make holes for the firmware. After that, you need to take the metal plates and put them on the places where the joints are. By the way, these linings can be fastened with a few rivets at hand. But before that, it is very important to finish the leather lining.
Usually such shields have a leather strap, which consists of several parts. Or rather, two of them. The first part is a belt, which ends with a molded buckle. But the second part is the tail, which in turn ends with a rump, which is decorative and cast.
Very often, along with the usual winding, you can decorate the handle with overlays. Moreover, the material of the overlays can be different. It is possible and bronze with silvering, and silver with gilding. By the way, it is important to decorate in a place where there is a grip with a leather belt. The entire length of the handle can be decorated with carnations of silver and gold, or wire of the same metals. You can also create the illusion of planks. You can do this with a stain or watercolor on hand. I need to draw stripes. But in order to create the illusion of a small crack between the boards, you can draw stripes between the boards. You can do this with a simple pen or cutter.