Repair 

Do-it-yourself installation of a false ceiling made of plasterboard. How to make a beautiful plasterboard ceiling with your own hands Plasterboard ceilings step by step instructions

Drywall has acquired the status of an indispensable material for repairs in an apartment. What they don’t make of it: various arches, niches, line the walls. We have already talked about multi-level structures, but we have not yet had time to mention plasterboard suspended ceilings. Today we will fix it and give you detailed instructions with video and step by step photos our works.

What makes drywall ceilings better than ordinary plaster?

  • The ability to level any irregularities with the least effort. If you do this with the help, the maximum allowable layer will be 5 cm (if we talk about Rotband). A thicker layer will need to be applied in two passes.
  • In the frame, you can hide any communications, pipes, wires.
  • You can integrate almost any directional lighting into the ceiling. Well-chosen light will significantly change the final look of the repair.
  • Finishing ceilings with plasterboard allows you to create single- and multi-level structures with different designs and shapes of bends, as well as.
  • In addition, you can additionally build in isolation from extraneous sounds, insulate the room.
  • Installation of drywall on the ceiling is carried out by a dry method, so there will be no need to wait for the solution to dry. After all, you don't have to be a professional plasterer to get a perfectly smooth surface.

However, filing the ceiling with drywall has its drawbacks:

  • Reducing the height of the room by at least 5 cm due to the high profile height.
  • Difficult installation process for a novice master. Be sure to have a puncher and a screwdriver. It is desirable to have a laser level.
  • In the future, cracks may appear at the joints of the sheets.
  • It's hard to deal with alone. At a minimum, during the sheathing, the help of a partner will be required.

Of course, for beginners it is even more difficult than drywall. Evaluate all the pros and cons for yourself and make a choice - what you like best.

Here we will look at how to assemble a plasterboard suspended ceiling of the simplest single-level design.

Required Tools

Before making a plasterboard ceiling, purchase the missing tools and materials.


List of tools and accessories:

  1. guide profiles 28*27 mm (PN);
  2. ceiling profiles 60*27 mm (PP);
  3. direct suspensions;
  4. single-level profile connectors - crabs;
  5. metal scissors;
  6. self-adhesive sealing tape;
  7. anchor wedges;
  8. dowel-nails;
  9. paint thread (cord-breaking device);
  10. laser level or hydraulic level;
  11. bubble level 2 m;
  12. rule 2.5 m;
  13. drywall sheets;
  14. putty for seams;
  15. sickle - reinforcing tape for seams;
  16. perforator with a drill;
  17. screwdriver;
  18. hardened self-tapping screws for metal with a frequent pitch of 25-35 mm;
  19. self-tapping screws with a press washer;
  20. acrylic primer;
  21. if necessary, sound and heat insulation;
  22. extensions for profiles, if required;
  23. spatula wide, narrow and angular;
  24. standard tools: tape measure, hammer, knife.

This is such a long list, but you probably already have half.

Important nuances - what beginners need to know

To calculate the required number of profiles, fasteners and drywall, you should first familiarize yourself with the installation technology. Next, the calculation will be shown on the example of a specific room and the consumption of materials will be shown.

If you do not know which drywall is best for the ceiling, or profiles for the frame, then buy products from well-known manufacturers, for example, the leader of them is Knauf. By buying cheap low-quality profiles, you risk getting a sagging ceiling over your head.

    • As for the hydro level, it is needed in order to mark a perfectly horizontal line on the walls, regardless of the curvature of the room. It is based on the physical law of communicating vessels, so it will need to be filled with water to work. Two water level vessels on opposite walls will show the same level. You will make marks and then connect them with painter's thread. In general, you can’t do without a hydro level if you don’t have a laser level, because you are tormented by the usual bubble level to draw a line around the perimeter of the room, in the end it will still turn out to be uneven.
    • The manufacture of plasterboard ceilings can be either from ordinary sheets or from moisture resistant ones. If you are making repairs in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen or loggia, use a moisture-resistant one: it contains hydrophobic additives. These two types differ in the color of cardboard: moisture-resistant green, and ordinary - gray.

Each type of drywall has its own color
    • Plasterboard ceiling sheathing usually occurs in sheets with a thickness of 8 to 9.5 mm. Recall that heavier sheets are usually used for walls - 12.5 mm thick.
    • The sealing tape is a porous material with a self-adhesive backing, 30 mm wide. It is used to fasten the structure so that the plasterboard ceiling frame fits snugly against the concrete and transmits less sounds.

Ceiling markings and rail fasteners

    • First you need to find the lowest corner in the room. To do this, measure each corner with a tape measure, and preferably the center of the room. In the lowest corner, you need to make a mark at a distance of 5 cm from the ceiling if you do not plan to build in fixtures, or 8 cm if there are fixtures.
    • Now, using the hydro level, make marks at the same level as the first point on each corner.

Cord-breaker for marking the wall (painting cord)
    • Now you need to make a beating to evenly connect all the points with a horizontal line. Stretch the paint cord between the marks and release it sharply so that it hits the wall - the paint on the cord will leave an even imprint. Make lines around the entire perimeter of the room.

Taping with masking tape

Before hemming the ceiling with drywall, we recommend that you make notes about the position of the profiles on the walls. So it will be easier to look for them when attaching sheets to the frame.

    • Now fix the guide profiles to the walls. To do this, attach one guide to the line (the bottom edge of the profile - along the line) and make marks on the wall through the finished holes on the profile. There should also be holes along the edges of the profile, so if there are none, step back 10 cm and do it yourself. Drill holes according to the marks.

  • Then you need to glue the sealing tape on the profile and fix it with dowels to the wall. We fasten at least 3 dowels.
  • Next, mark up the main ceiling profiles. Since the width of the drywall sheet is 120 cm, usually the profiles are placed at a distance of 40 cm from each other in order to fix the sheet at the edges and in the middle. So, make lines on the ceiling in 40 cm increments.
  • With such a small step of ceiling profiles, jumpers between them are needed only at the transverse joints of the sheets, that is, every 2.5 m (standard length of drywall sheets). This means that the suspension pitch for ceiling profiles should be an integer number of times smaller, for us 50 cm will be optimal. It should be noted that the first row of suspensions will be twice as close to the wall, therefore 50:2 = 25 cm. The second row will be 25 +50 = 75 cm and so on in increments of 50 cm.
  • For marking, attach the suspension at the desired points on the ceiling and make 2 marks for each under the anchors. There will be a lot of dust while drilling holes, so be sure to wear goggles and a respirator.

Frame installation

    • We fix the hangers with anchors, they hold the suspended ceiling much better. The dowels can be pulled out by pulling a little with pliers, so they are not suitable for the ceiling. Also do not forget to stick the sealing tape on the hangers. When you fix the suspension, bend its ends properly so that they bend as much as possible. During subsequent fastening, they should no longer sag, otherwise the profiles will not be fixed unevenly.
Profile extension attachment
    • Now you can start installing ceiling profiles. They are 3m long, so if your room is smaller, cut them with metal shears 1cm shorter than the room. If the room is longer, you will need special connecting fasteners to increase the length of the profile.

Note! When building a profile in length, the joints of adjacent profiles should not be on the same line. Also, there should be a suspension near the joints.

    • Fastening ceiling profiles to suspensions starts from the corners of the room. To secure them without sagging, your partner should take the rule and hold it with a wide grip (so as not to sag) to the two rails that form an angle (i.e. the rule should be diagonal). This way it will maintain your profile at the level of the guides. At this point, you will screw the profile to the hangers with 4 self-tapping screws with a press washer. Also, do not forget to attach the profiles to the guides. So that they do not hang out, it is better to buy self-tapping screws without a drill.
    • The corners are ready, now we fix the center of the ceiling profiles on the suspensions. If the rule cannot be applied to the center in the same way, then apply it exactly from the starting profile. Be sure to check for evenness with a long level. After attaching the hangers, bend the excess length of the ends up.

    • In the same way, fasten the second profile, supporting the rule. Then go to the opposite wall and attach the next 2 ceiling profiles. Then go to the center and hang the remaining profiles, relying on the already installed ones.
    • Now you need to fix the jumpers where the drywall joints will be (every 2.5 m). They are fastened with the help of special single-level mounts - crabs. In the right places, screw the crabs on 4 self-tapping screws. If you retreat from the main ceiling a small distance, then the crabs may not pass from above, so you will have to hang them in advance.

Fasteners for suspended frame
  • Cut the jumpers from the ceiling profile and fasten to the crab with 4 self-tapping screws, bending the antennae. It is not necessary to fasten the jumpers to the profiles from below, they will be fixed by drywall.
  • If needed, it is usually used mineral wool. It is cut into rectangles. bigger size than cells and fits inside the frame, additionally clinging to suspensions. To enhance the effect, you can also fill the cavities of the profiles with it. Mineral wool absorbs sound very well, but when working with it, be sure to use a respirator and gloves.

If you want to see the installation of a plasterboard ceiling in action, the video tutorial will help you learn some of the nuances of the work:

Fastening drywall to frame

Note! Before fixing drywall, it must be in the room for at least a couple of days. However, it can only be stored in a horizontal position.

Self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed
  • Start fastening drywall to the ceiling by chamfering: you need to cut the edges with a knife at an angle so that the putty then penetrates well into the gap. There is already a chamfer on the glued ends, so there is no need to remove it there.
  • Start fastening the sheet from the corner with a pitch of 20 cm screws, retreat 10-15 mm from the edges. On adjacent sheets, screw the screws at different levels, in a run. Their hats should be recessed so that they do not stick out, check this by touch.
  • Attach the sheets to each other in a run-up, shifting at least one cell. They do not need to be joined closely, there should be a gap of 2 mm around the perimeter. The GK sheet must be fixed along the perimeter (including to the wall guides), and in the center.

Note! If you have outside corners in your room, avoid joining the sheet near the corner. If you do not make a joint at least 10 cm from the corner, then a crack will soon appear.

Material counting

Now that you know the device false ceiling from drywall, you can calculate the amount of materials needed and the cost of its installation. To do this, it is best to make a drawing of the room indicating all dimensions and place all fasteners and profiles on it.


Ceiling scheme

For a room of 20.8 square meters, we needed:

  • 99 suspensions;
  • 8 sheets of drywall;
  • 19 ceiling profiles;
  • 8 guides;
  • 24 crabs.

approximate price installation work hired workers - about 400 rubles per square. You can calculate the benefit if you do everything yourself - saving 8320 rubles. As you can see, it turns out a good benefit, you can even recoup the purchase of tools.

Seam sealing

Now let's talk about last step- how to putty a plasterboard ceiling and seal the seams. First of all, treat the seams with a primer and wait for it to dry. No need to tear the cardboard off the sheets. To seal the seams, you need to use especially strong putties, for example, Knauf Uniflott, the usual one will not work for this.

    • Dilute the putty according to the instructions on the package. First seal all the seams against the wall, then all the joints and caps of the self-tapping screws. To seal factory seams, first fill it in, and then align the recess along the edges of the sheets with a wide spatula.

Note! Since 2013, Knauf has been producing plasterboards with a new edge (PLUK), which increases the strength of the putty at the joints and makes it possible not to use a reinforcing mesh on such an edge. Therefore, at the factory joints of the sheets, you can not use the mesh if you seal the seams with Knauf Uniflott putty.

A new type of Knauf edge allows you to apply putty into the seams more densely
    • When the putty dries, stick self-adhesive tape (serpyanka) on the seams. Glue it overlap at the intersections. Dilute a little more putty and cover the sickle and the remaining small irregularities. Puttying the plasterboard ceiling in the corners is best done with an angled spatula.
    • So you minimize the appearance of cracks at the joints. To enhance the effect, you can. Now the surface is ready for further puttying in the usual way. If you still have small protrusions after sealing the seams, then finishing layer will hide everything.

In this article, we examined in detail how to sheathe a ceiling with drywall, and now you can make it at home with your own hands. We have described the process of creating a single-level structure, but if you decide, the order of work will change slightly.

Hello young drywallers! You were looking for a detailed step-by-step instruction for assembling a drywall ceiling, and you found it. Unlike most dull pseudo-construction sites, our authors really work in finishing. Now we will show you clearly the entire process of assembling such a ceiling, what you need for this, we will teach you how to avoid cracks and make everything even and beautiful.

Of course, we'll be talking about a simple one-level option, not some pointless, tasteless crap like this:

Gypsy renovation

First you need to figure out what drywall is, what it is, and what you need.

Gypsum building board, in the common people "drywall", in the professional environment "gypsum" - a sheet building material consisting of two layers of cardboard and a pressed gypsum core. It is clear that these materials are 100% environmentally friendly. Drywall is smooth, cheap and, importantly for many, “clean” material. This means that during its installation a minimum of dirt appears, unlike the good old plaster. Gypsum comes in different sizes, colors, thicknesses, different types edges.

Moisture resistant GKL Gyproc

Most popular sizes

  • 2500×1200 mm - standard
  • 3000×1200 mm - long
  • 1500×600 mm - small format

The most common thickness

  • 9.5 mm - for curved structures
  • 12.5 mm - standard
  • 15 mm - strong

Drywall types

  • normal (GKL) - light gray
  • moisture resistant (GKLV) - gray-green
  • fire-resistant (GKLO) - gray-pinkish color

The main types of edges.

  • PLUK – Knauf
  • PRO - Gyproc

Comparison of PRO and PLUK edges

We will consider the most common option - ordinary drywall 2500x1200x12.5 mm trademark Gyproc with PRO edge. Many ignoramuses sew 9.5 mm drywall on the ceiling, like, it is lighter, and even call it ceiling. These are not masters, but dolboyaschers. This is easily proved by discovering any technical sheet any major drywall manufacturer:

Proof

Ceiling, yes. It is exactly 12.5 mm that goes to the ceiling, this is a fact. As for moisture-resistant sheets, they, of course, will be more stable than usual ones, but still they are much more expensive, and therefore it makes sense to use them only for their intended purpose, that is, in wet rooms. Fire-resistant - we don’t need anything at all, but you won’t find them anywhere))

Advantages of drywall in comparison with plaster

  • Drywall is able to level any humps and pits, at least half a meter, at least a meter, but as much as you like. Limit gypsum plasters- 15 mm.
  • The ability to hide any communications: ventilation, electrics, plumbing, beams, etc.
  • The ability to make any useless bullshit, like curved surfaces, light pockets, niches, etc.
  • Lamps can be built into drywall, and not just hung
  • The construction is relatively light, but at the same time quite strong.
  • You can apply heat and sound insulation. This, by the way, is one of the main advantages of drywall in principle.
  • No dirt and high humidity

Disadvantages of drywall in comparison with stretch ceilings

  • Significantly higher labor costs and installation time
  • The need for puttying and grinding, which produces an overdose of harmful dust
  • Inability to perform high-quality painting without experience
  • Potential for cracking (due to installation or construction errors)
  • If the neighbors flood you, the repair will cost a round sum and a lot of time
  • The need for procurement and delivery a large number various building materials

If, after reading this, you have not yet changed your mind about making a drywall ceiling, we wish you good luck and let's go.

What you need for installation

Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling mounting accessories:

  1. Guide profiles KNAUF (or Gyproc) PN 28×27 mm
  2. Ceiling profiles KNAUF (or Gyproc) PP 60×27 mm
  3. Sealing tape Dichtungsband
  4. Separating tape
  5. Ceiling anchor wedges 6×40 mm
  6. “Dowel-nails” (another name is “Quick installation”) 6 × 40 mm (ordinary dowels and self-tapping screws will not work, since the holes in the profiles are larger than self-tapping screw heads - 8 mm)
  7. Cord breaking device
  8. Laser level, or bubble, or, at worst, hydro level
  9. Rule aluminum 2.5 m
  10. Gyproc plasterboard sheets 2500x1200x12.5
  11. Seam putty (we work with Danogips Superfinish)
  12. Reinforcing tape for seams KNAUF Kurt
  13. Roulette
  14. A hammer
  15. Stationery knife (or special knife for cutting the Civil Code)
  16. Perforator + drill
  17. screwdriver
  18. Self-tapping screws for metal 3.5 × 25-35 mm (black, frequent pitch)
  19. Self-tapping screws with press washer 4.2×13mm or shorter
  20. Primer deep penetration(Knauf Tiefengrund, Feidal Tiefgrund LF)
  21. Direct hangers
  22. Single-level connectors CRAB
  23. Metal shears or grinder
  24. Mineral wool ISOVER or KNAUF Insulation 50 mm thick (if sound insulation is required)
  25. KNAUF profile extensions (if required)
  26. Narrow and wide spatulas
  27. First aid kit, because with a high degree of probability you will cut yourself on the profiles, and this is not a joke

Well, don’t take deshman profiles

Before starting the installation, it is necessary to clarify some points of the previous chapter. For example, we write - KNAUF profile. This means that you need exactly Knauf, not Economy or some other shit, because you can’t collect nice ceiling from shit and sticks. And then at the box office of all sorts of Merua Lerlens, you can often see people with these “wonderful” profiles for 40 rubles each. I just want to shout to them “what are you going to do with this garbage?” No, seriously, you can tie this profile with your bare hands into a knot! Don't you even have a thought about why there is a profile for 110 rubles nearby? Really decided that this is a markup for the brand? No, just Knauf profile contains metal.

It is easy to distinguish a KNAUF profile - by marking

Now, what is Dichtungband, that is, sealing tape. It is glued to the back of the guide profile for a tighter fit to the wall. This achieves best sound insulation. You can, of course, do without it, but you will save a little, and the sound insulation will worsen.

Sealing tape Dichtungsband


Plasterboard ceiling is not attached to the walls

What is the separation tape for? It is glued under the guide profiles around the perimeter of the room, drywall rests against it, the adjoining of which to the wall will be subsequently puttied. So, the putty does not stick to this tape, and our adjoining turns out to be sliding. Otherwise it is called "managed crack". The whole point of creating plasterboard linings is that they must be untied from the enclosing structures, so our ceiling should hang stupidly on suspensions, but in no case should it be attached to the walls. Yes, we attach profiles to the walls, but the drywall itself should not be screwed to these guides! Now this was the most important information that 95 percent of the “masters” do not understand. It seems to them that it will be more reliable to screw in more self-tapping screws wherever they get, but in fact they only make it worse, because then deforming forces begin to act on the drywall, hence the cracks. We'll talk more about this later. By the way, if you can’t find such a tape in hardware stores, you can use ordinary (not masking) transparent tape instead.

Plasterboard ceiling installation instructions

Stage 1. Marking the level of the frame and fixing the guide profiles

So, here we have such a room:

Our premises

The first thing we need to do is find the lowest corner of our concrete ceiling. The most convenient way to do this is with a laser, but you can also use a bubble level. The point is to deviate from this point by 5 cm, if it is not planned to make built-in lamps, or 9 cm, if they are. You can retreat even 4 cm, but then you will have to put the CRABs on the profiles BEFORE they are installed, and if it suddenly turns out that the ceiling sags towards the center of the room, everything will have to be redone. Here we recommend 5.

Next, draw a line around the perimeter using a laser or bubble level. If you only have a hydraulic level, we transfer the marks to all corners and connect them with a cord breaker (in the common people, a “lace”). Here's what we'll get:

Determined the level of the future frame

This will be the level at which the bottom rail shelf will be. They can be mounted through the holes already in them, or through-mounting can also be used. Usually in practice we use combos. The step of fastening the profiles should not exceed 50 cm. At the same time, even for short sections of the profiles, at least 3 fastening points are needed. It's funny, by the way, that this is a requirement of the KNAUF company, and the mounting holes themselves come with a step of 53 cm - a paradox. The load on these profiles will be low, they are only needed so that the edge of the ceiling profiles is fixed in level. We repeat, we do not attach drywall to them!

Installation of PN 27 × 28 mm is carried out through a sealing tape using dowel-nails 6 × 40 mm. They hold well in concrete and solid brick, but rotate in hollow brick and tongue-and-groove. In these situations, they need to be replaced with ordinary good nylon dowels and self-tapping screws with a press washer with a diameter of 4.8 mm. The best results are obtained when using HILTI dowels (HUD-L), but they cost a lot of money. The length is usually 50 mm. It is recommended to attach to such loose walls more often than in increments of 50 cm, here 25 cm is the most. In general, fixed:

Fixed guides

Stage 2. Marking ceiling profiles

In suspended ceilings, only the 60 × 27 mm profile is used, but conditionally it is divided into “main” and “carrier”. Main profiles are those that are attached directly to concrete ceiling, and the carriers are already attached to the main ones with the help of CRABs:

Their step is 500 mm, and drywall will already be attached to them. The main profiles come with a step of 1200 mm, this is just the width of the drywall sheets. But for ease of subsequent puttying, the first sheets are slightly cut along (the factory edge is removed), so the distance from the wall to the first profile will not be 1200, but slightly less, for example, 1140 mm. But from it to the next - already 1200. Here is our markup:

Marking the main frame profiles

And to better understand the structure of the frame profiles, take a look at this picture:

Ceiling frame diagram

Stage 3. Mounting hangers

It is clear that the suspensions will be located on the lines of the main profiles. But they still need to be properly labeled. Look, the KNAUF diagram tells us that the maximum suspension pitch with a load of up to 15 kg per m2 (and we have just such a case) is 1000 mm. We recommend placing the first suspension at a distance of 25 cm from the wall, and the second - 125 cm, despite the fact that Knauf allows the first suspension to be placed at a distance of 100 cm, so it will be more reliable.

Direct hangers


According to the technology, suspensions are attached to the ceiling ONLY on anchor wedges

Suspensions are attached to the ceiling exclusively with metal driven wedge anchors, no dowels! For each suspension - 2 anchors. Since the quality of our concrete slabs and, moreover, of the anchors is low, each fastening must be checked. Yes, yes, take the pliers, bend the ends of the suspension with them and pull down with all your might. Quite often it happens that the anchor pulls out of the concrete, you have to re-drill. On the other hand, imagine that he will come out after sheathing, this will be a fatality. So do not be lazy and check everything at once. By the way, suspensions, like guide profiles, are attached through a sealing tape. This will enhance the soundproofing properties of the skin.

Stage 4. Fastening the main frame profiles

The main profiles are cut 10 mm shorter than the length of the room. This is very important, because, again, it allows the frame to “walk” relatively freely with temperature fluctuations. If the length of the room is greater than the length of the profile, and this usually happens, we use special extension cords, but keep in mind that the total length of the profiles should still be less than the size of the room. In this case, the junctions of adjacent profiles should not be located on the same line.

The quality of self-tapping screws when mounting the frame is very important

The most difficult thing in installing a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands is to set the ceiling profiles strictly on the same level. More precisely, it is not difficult to set it, it is difficult to screw a self-tapping screw in weight so that this level does not go astray. With a laser, of course, it will be most convenient here: a magnetic target, a beam and all that. If there is no such device, you will have to go out with a cord or a rule, going from the edges to the middle. Alone, alas, you can’t do this. A lot will depend on the quality of the screws. We unanimously consider self-tapping screws of the same company HILTI (S-DD03Z 4.2X13 mm) as reference in this nomination. They, of course, cost money, about a ruble a piece, but take my word for it, if you come across worthless self-tapping screws, you will curse everything and will be ready to give any money for quality screws. And these critters can easily drill through 3mm thick steel, can you imagine? And this is verified by personal experience!

So, it is advisable to use two screws on each side of the suspension, because. with one he can backlash:

Installation of the main frame profiles

The edges of the suspensions after fastening are either bent up or cut off. Once you have finished screwing all the main profiles, take the rule again and check the flatness, it should be almost perfect. If the rule jumps somewhere, or you see a gap, do not be lazy and twist it. Yes, we understand that you are tired, but the price of laziness can be high here.

Stage 5. Installation of CRABs and supporting profiles. mineral wool

It is very easy to stick a CRAB into the ceiling profile, they snap into place stupidly. You don’t need to screw them to the profiles either, they won’t go anywhere as long as gravity is directed downwards. In general, we insert them in increments of 50 cm and additionally at a distance of 10 cm from the walls, perpendicular to the profiles, this was clearly visible on the Knauf scheme:

CRABs on the main profiles

Now we cut segments of the bearing profiles. As in the case of the main ones, they should be slightly shorter than the distance between the latter, that is, they should not burst them. We insert their ends into CRABs and fasten them with self-tapping screws with a press washer, for each supporting profile - 4 self-tapping screws. Here's what happens:

Support profiles


This is what our frame will look like

When our frame is ready, we can lay mineral wool in it. The main thing is to do it tightly and without gaps, the cotton should fill the frame well, but should not hang below it, so as not to interfere with the drywall sheets.

ISOVER in action

Stage 6. Sheathing the frame with drywall

Before sewing the sheets onto the frame, they need to be allowed to lie in the room for at least two days so that it “gets used” to the temperature and humidity of the room. It's like laminate flooring. At the first sheet, we cut off the factory edge on one side and, on the resulting edge, we additionally chamfer with a knife or planer at an angle of 22.5 degrees (approximately, of course) to a depth of 2/3 of the sheet thickness. This is done for the convenience of subsequent puttying. When marking the sheet, it is also important to take into account that the corners in the room do not have to be equal to 90 degrees, which can cause problems - the sheets will start to leave the profiles. Therefore, measure each corner with a square and cut its edges to fit the shape of the room. It is not as difficult as it seems at first glance.

In principle, it is not necessary to chamfer the sheets BEFORE their installation, it is possible after, as it is more convenient for anyone. It is more convenient for us to remove it after.

The pitch of the self-tapping screws should be no more than 17 cm, the heads must be slightly recessed into the cardboard (by 0.5-1 mm), but not break through it. We recommend using a special nozzle-limiter for a screwdriver. Sheets are always installed staggered, at least one step of the supporting profiles:

Installation of drywall sheets


Finished skin

On the factory edges of the sheet, the screws are installed at a distance of at least 10 mm from the edge of the sheet, and at the cut edges - at least 15 mm. Make sure that they penetrate the sheets at a right angle, and not obliquely. If a bad screw came across somewhere, or we screwed it in by mistake - we throw it away and screw in a new one with an indent from the old hole of at least 5 cm. Docking of the end edges of the sheets is only allowed on the supporting profiles, they should in no case hang in the air !

Another important point. If the room has outer corner, it is impossible IN NO EVENT to join sheets on it. It threatens to crack. It is much more competent to cut a sheet in the shape of the letter “L” and “wrap” the corner with it, as here:

Drywall on the corner

As for the consumption of materials, Knauf has carefully provided us with the following list:

Consumption of materials

For even greater clarity, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the official video instruction from Knauf:

Stage 7. Sealing joints GKL

This topic has generated a lot of controversy. Various manufacturers recommend various materials and methods of termination, craftsmen are experimenting all the time ... In general, nothing is clear, there is no clear instruction. We can only speak for ourselves. For high-quality sealing of joints, we use only KNAUF Kurt paper reinforcing tape and Danogips Superfinish ready-made putty. Yes, this is far from the only option, because there are products such as weber.vetonit JS or KNAUF Uniflott. We just got used to Superfinish and it didn't let us down. Americans, for example, and Canadians use polymer putties and paper tapes. The Germans, for some reason, tend to gypsum. In general, we will tell you exactly how our drywall workers work.

Don't skimp on primer. Everything that is cheaper than 600 rubles for 10 liters does not suit us

The end edges of the sheets are necessarily treated with a deep penetration primer and left for a day so that the soil has time to completely polymerize. Then we fill them with any gypsum putty, usually KNAUF Fugen, because. it is quite cheap and durable. We do not prime the factory edges, but simply dedust them if necessary, here priming will do more harm than good. In factory joints, reinforcing tape can be laid immediately (if we are talking about Gyproc drywall). They hammered the joint with Superfinish, laid the tape into it, squeezed out the excess putty from it, then applied it on top. After drying, applied again to close possible pits and pores. The joint is ready for grinding. As for the cut edges, you need to wait until the Fugen is completely dry in them, then apply a thin layer of Danogips Superfinigh, lay the tape in it and then repeat the steps as for the factory edges.

We close up the joints


We grind them

High-quality preparation of such a ceiling for painting consists of several stages. Puttyed seams and holes from self-tapping screws are necessarily polished, thus we get a single even, but so far inhomogeneous plane. Before applying the finishing polymer putty to the entire ceiling, it must be primed with a deep penetration primer (not a film-forming primer!), In order to partially equalize the absorbency of the cardboard and putty at the joints. Before painting, the puttied surface is primed again with GGP (and we even prime it twice) and becomes even more homogeneous.

If, after processing the joints, you start puttying immediately, there is a big risk that after painting, due to the different absorbency, the joints of the sheets will appear. We've already skewed like that, so we know what we're talking about, boys.

It can be seen that the paint at the joints dries more slowly

That's all, the plasterboard ceiling is ready, its puttying and painting is a completely different topic, which we will discuss in the following lessons. If this material was useful to you, like and subscribe to new materials. If you have any questions, feel free to ask them in the comments, we will try to answer everyone. See you soon!

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September 28, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

Today I will talk about how to make a suspended plasterboard ceiling. In my opinion, this is one of the pretty simple ways its arrangement. The instructions below are understandable even for the most inexperienced novice builders.

Using it, you can do all the work yourself, saving on the wages of builders. And since the price of the material itself is not so high, the cost of the entire project will be quite affordable.

Ceiling device and necessary materials

Structurally, a plasterboard ceiling is a frame that is attached to the walls and floor of the room, and then sheathed with plasterboard, after which it is decorated with decorative materials. The frame is single-level and multi-level.

If you have not made suspended plasterboard ceilings with your own hands before, I advise you to stop at the first option. It is about him that will be discussed further.

To construct a single-level frame, galvanized ceiling profiles PP (CD) 60 by 27 mm and PPN (UD) 28 by 27 mm are required. To connect them together, self-tapping screws for metal and single-level connectors (“crabs”) are used.

I will hang profiles from the ceiling on U-shaped brackets (“pawns”). You can replace them with spring suspensions. Brackets and profiles to the walls will be fastened with screws with plastic dowels.

I recommend using drywall with a thickness of 9.5 mm, a width of 1200 mm and a length of 2500 mm. If you are going to sheathe a room with a high level of humidity (bathroom, toilet), you need to buy moisture-resistant green plasterboard. In all other cases, standard brown (grayish) will do.

If you follow the tips listed above, you will achieve the optimal combination of strength characteristics and weight. The normal value is 13 kg per 1 square meter ceiling.

As for the tools, you will need:

  • perforator for making holes in the floor slab and enclosing walls;
  • screwdriver for tightening self-tapping screws;
  • metal shears for cutting profiles;
  • laser or water level for marking;
  • drywall plastering tools.

The very process of installing GKL on the ceiling consists of only three stages:

Beginning of work

So, before you make a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, you need to properly prepare the ceiling and develop a project for the future structure.

Surface preparation

I want to say right away that the suspended ceiling perfectly hides all the defects of the floor slab. Therefore, the preparation work will not be voluminous. Their main task is to ensure reliable fastening of the frame on the floor slab and walls.

To do this, I usually perform the following steps:

  1. I'm dismantling the old finish. It is necessary to tear off old wallpaper or paint to a layer of putty or plaster. By the way, if the paint on the ceiling does not fall off, but is held very firmly, it is also not necessary to scrape off all of it. It is enough to remove damaged areas that may crumble.

  1. I do floor slab repairs. Before installing the GKL, it is necessary to repair the defects of the reinforced concrete ceiling slab. To do this, using the repair cement mortar or polyurethane polyurethane foam Large gaps and cracks need to be patched.

If you find areas with exposed reinforcement, then before sealing it is necessary to clean the metal from rust, coat it with a rust converter, and after the latter has dried, seal the cracks.

  1. Ground surface. This operation allows you to dedust the ceiling slab. If you are going to do the ceiling in the room high humidity, it is better to take a primer with antiseptic properties, designed to work on a mineral base.

  1. I install engineering communications. Before installing the ceiling, you need to take care of the installation engineering systems. Usually we are talking about ventilation ducts and electrical cables. The first I recommend doing from plastic pipes. And put the wires in protective corrugations, which will save you from fire in case of a short circuit.

It is not necessary to bring the ceiling to the ideal and align it strictly according to the level. After all, this will be done with the help of a frame and drywall sheets.

Project development

Now let's take up the creation of a project for the future ceiling. Again, if you are going to design a complex multi-level ceiling, I recommend using specialized computer applications for this. They also calculate the amount of materials needed.

In the case I am describing, the ceiling will be single-level, without complex zigzags and steps. Therefore, you can calculate it yourself. I will give an approximate calculation scheme for a room measuring 3 by 6 meters:

  1. First you need to determine the perimeter of the room - ours will be equal to 3 + 3 + 6 + 6 = 18 meters. That is how much the UD ceiling guide profile will need. Naturally, take with a small margin, just in case something goes wrong. In addition, they will need to be nested in each other, which also needs to be taken into account.
    When measuring a room, measure all walls. There are times when opposite walls are not equal to each other. Then take the higher value.
  2. Next, you need to calculate the number of carrier ceiling profile CD. In my case, it will be mounted at a distance of 50 cm from each other across the room. Accordingly, 600 / 50 cm = 12 pieces. This is for the case when the GKL will be attached along the room. The length of the sheet is 2500 mm, that is, its edges will fall just on the bearing parts.
    If you are laying plasterboard sheets across the room, the distance between the carrier profiles should be 60 cm (since the sheet is 120 cm wide). Then 600 / 60 = 10 pieces.
  3. At the next stage, the number of U-shaped suspensions is calculated. They are attached to the carrier profile at a distance of 60 cm. The length of the profile in our case is 3 meters. That is 300 / 60 = 5 suspensions. We have 12 profiles. So 12 * 5 = 60 suspensions.
    Remember that the first and last hangers must be fixed at a distance of 30 cm from the wall, and the rest - at a distance of 60 cm from each other.
  4. You also need to calculate the number of crabs. They will need 24, that is, twice as many as carrier CD profiles.

The number of screws and dowels can also be counted, but I do not advise you to stop there. Buy a box of self-tapping screws for fastening profiles, for screwing drywall and screws with dowels for mounting the frame on the walls.

Step-by-step guide for installing drywall

Sequencing:

  1. I'm doing markup. First you need to arm yourself with a laser or bubble level and beat off a line on the enclosing walls of the room, which will be located strictly horizontally. In my case, the floor slab has ledges-ribs, so I drew the line a little lower. You can draw a straight line or mark it with a dotted line as shown in the photo below.

These marks will later serve as a guide for fixing the UD ceiling guide profiles.

  1. Next, I take an ordinary metal drill with a diameter of 7 mm and drill holes in the guide parts, which will later be needed to install screws with dowels.

The holes must be drilled in the profile at a distance of 50 cm from each other. The extreme ones should be 10 cm away from the cut of the profile. I make holes in the profile in advance so that later I don’t drill the part with a drill with a victorious tip (which is intended for concrete walls).

  1. I mount guide profiles on the walls. To do this, I apply the profile to the drawings (lines) made on the wall, after which, after drilled holes using a puncher I drill holes in the walls. The drill diameter in this case is 6 mm.

After that, I insert a dowel-nail into the hole made in the wall (naturally, with the attached profile). He is plastic part with a thickening at the end, where a metal core is driven in.

Dowel size 6 x 50 mm. The dowel is driven in simply with a hammer. If you make some mistake during installation, you can then unscrew it with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

At the corners of the room, the guide profiles are inserted into each other, after which the junction is strengthened with a small self-tapping screw. If you need to splice two elements (if its length is not enough for the whole room), you just need to put two guides one into the other. In this place, it is necessary to drill a through hole and drive another dowel-nail into the wall.

  1. I install load-bearing galvanized profiles. As I already mentioned, in my case, the plasterboard will be laid along the room. Accordingly, the distance between adjacent parts will be 50 cm. You need to take a tape measure and mark the walls, placing risks at a distance of 50 cm from each other.

Then you need to adjust the profiles to the width of the room (if they are already). To do this, I recommend measuring the profile of the desired length (5 mm less than the distance between the walls), after which make cuts along the side shelves with scissors, and then, bending and unbending the part, simply break it off. Then the upper ones need to be cut a little diagonally, as shown in the photo.

If the width of the room is such that the length of one profile piece is not enough, it is necessary to use two products, splicing them together with a connector, which can be bought at the store. If this is not at hand, you can make it yourself. The scheme is this:

  • I cut off a piece 20 cm long from the CD part (maybe a little less);
  • after that I cut off two short shelves, which are located along the sides of the profile;
  • then this part is bent exactly in the middle along the central groove so that the profile takes the form of the Latin letter W. This is clearly seen in the illustration below.

Then you need to insert the trimmed profiles into the guides. To do this, place one end, then take the part diagonally and insert it into the opposite guide. In this case, the products must be positioned so that their center (it is visible on the profile) is exactly aligned with the mark on the wall.

If you have a distance between the last bearing bar or wall of the room more than 50 cm, you need to divide the remaining distance in half and install an additional profile in this place for strength. But keep in mind that CD-parts must be located so that the edges of the GCR must be placed on them.

After you have placed all the profiles on the rails according to the markup, they must be fixed with self-tapping screws. I use one self-tapping screw per profile on each side. Self-tapping screws can be screwed with a screwdriver.

  1. I install transverse elements of load-bearing profiles. Here, too, I will start with the markup. Considering that I will put the drywall sheet along, I need to measure a distance of 1200 mm from one of the walls and make the corresponding risks on each carrier profile. To do this, it is better to use a marker, since the pencil draws poorly and is poorly visible on galvanization. You get this markup.

To connect two frame elements at the same level, a special part is needed, which is called a “crab” in the common people. It looks like this. It has special latches, thanks to which it is securely fixed on the CD profile.

These crabs must be inserted into already installed parts, guided by pre-applied marks. To avoid longitudinal sliding of the bracket, it is desirable to fix it on the carrier with a self-tapping screw. For this, the parts have the necessary holes. One screw is enough.

Then crossbars are attached to the crabs. To do this, you need to cut the required number of parts (their length must correspond to the distance between the carrier profiles), and then fix them with two self-tapping screws. The end crossbars are inserted into the carrier profile mounted on the wall. The result will be the design shown in the photo.

If the width of the room is more than 2.6 meters, you will need as many rows of transverse elements as there will be GKL junctions. In my case it is two rows. Everything will depend on the perimeter of the room. But the principle of installation will remain the same.

It happens that you incorrectly calculated the number of crabs, and there were not enough brackets for installation. Then you can fix a few details without them. To do this, you need to correctly cut the guide profile:

  • first you need to measure the profile, the length of which will be 40 mm longer than the distance between the guides;
  • then you should cut off the side shelves in such a way that tongues form from the wide edge (their edges must also be cut at a slight angle).

Then this part can simply be screwed onto the CD profile using one self-tapping screw. You need to orient yourself along the central stiffener. In principle, using this advice, you can completely abandon the use of crabs. This will not affect strength in any way.

  1. I fix the frame on the concrete floor. Without it drywall construction will not hold securely, as its length is large enough. For fixing, U-shaped perforated suspensions are used, which the craftsmen call "pawns".

Suspensions should hold long bearing profiles at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Therefore, you must first make marks on the details with a marker at the same distance from each other.

Above the marked places, you need to make two holes to fix the bracket. In order not to be mistaken, you can attach a bracket, and then make holes. As a result, it will turn out like this:

To fix the suspensions themselves, you can use dowel-nails or anchor bolts. In my case, I use screws that I screw into dry birch chopsticks. This is due to the fact that the thickness of the floor slab in this room is not enough to reliably drive the dowels there. But this is only a feature of this particular installation.

Then I screw on the hangers. In my case, the distance between the ceiling and the frame is such that I have to use two suspensions, placing them on both sides of the carrier profile. But, as a rule, one suspension will do. Then you just need to bend its petals at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the floor slab.

Mounting is done as shown in the photo:

Remember that you first need to fix all the hangers on the ceiling without attaching them to the carrier profiles. Before screwing the brackets directly to the frame, the latter must be leveled relative to the horizontal, since now the profiles sag a little under their weight.

Now I’ll tell you how you can easily align this entire structure:

  • First, you should raise the entire frame in the center so that it is obviously higher than the required level, and fix it in this state to the hangers using self-tapping screws in two or three places. This will be a temporary mount, which will then be removed.
  • Then you need to fasten the cord. A screw with a string attached to it is screwed into the guide near one wall, then it is pulled through the entire room and screwed to the screw on the opposite guide profile. If you raised the ceiling (as described in the previous paragraph), then a small gap forms between the rope and the frame.

  • If you do not want to raise the ceiling, you can fasten the thread from the top of the guide profile. Then the ceiling will sag and still form a gap needed for alignment.
  • After all the threads are stretched, you can align the profile with a guideline and fix it on the hangers. Be sure to leave a gap of about 1 mm so that the already aligned parts do not violate the plane formed by the stretched ropes.

This process of leveling the surface takes up most of the time required to install the ceiling. But it must be carried out carefully and without haste, otherwise you will get a curved surface.

One more moment. If after mounting you still have protruding parts of the brackets, you just need to bend them. Cutting is optional.

  1. I am insulating the surface of the ceiling. You can also omit this step if ceiling insulation is not required. But in my case, the floor slab is too thin and requires thermal insulation. In addition, the material used will play the role of a soundproof layer.

As thermal insulation, I will use foam foil 4 mm thick. An additional reflective heat shield will be effective enough to thermal energy was not wasted through the overlap.

The difficulty in my case is to fix the penofol, since I will not attach it to the profile with a stapler or screws. The way out for me was shoe glue.

You can, by the way, replace it with liquid nails. Well, one more Alternative option- Use of double-sided tape.

I glued the lower surface of the profiles with glue, and then those sections of the foam that will be glued. After that, he completed the installation of the heater. Remember that you need to glue it so that the foil side is located towards the living room. All this is clearly visible in the photo.

  1. I fix sheets of drywall on the profile. It is better to do this with a partner who will hold the sheets during fastening. But I will tell you further how you can still manage only on your own.

In this case, for work, you will need two props in the form of the letters T (well, or mops). Their length should be such that, in a vertical position, they practically rest against the surface of the ceiling frame (even without taking into account the thickness of the gypsum board). prop the simplest design shown in the photo.

How to use this mop:

  • First you need to install the mop against the wall so that a gap is formed between it and the ceiling, where you can place drywall sheet by thickness.
  • Then you need to take a sheet of drywall and lean it on this support.
  • After that, you should grab the sheet by the opposite (bottom) edge and lift it to the ceiling. In this case, the opposite edge should stick tightly against the wall and be fixed between the frame and the short part of the mop.
  • Raising it from the floor, you need to slip a second mop under the bottom and bring the sheet to the level of the frame made earlier.
  • As a result, the drywall sheet will be pressed against the ceiling in the way shown in the photo.

Then you can take a stepladder and fix the sheet on the frame using drywall screws. They need to be screwed along the edge of the sheet and into those areas where profiles pass under the sheet. The distance between adjacent screws should be 30-40 cm.

When screwing in the self-tapping screw, be sure to hold the GKL with your hand nearby. Because when screwing a self-tapping screw into the profile, the sheet may slightly move away from the surface. There is a danger that it will collapse from your supports.

The head of the screw after screwing should not rise above the level of the sheet. It needs to be sunk a little deeper, but at the same time not completely destroy the sheet of cardboard that protects the gypsum from destruction.

Similarly, the installation of all other sheets is performed.

  1. I do finishing ceiling. To do this, it is necessary to putty the places where the heads of the screws are visible, as well as the junction of drywall sheets (a fiberglass mesh is usually laid along the seams - sickle).

Do you really want to make a suspended plasterboard ceiling yourself? People who do repairs do it quickly and automatically. If you are new to such matters and you want to do the installation of plasterboard suspended ceilings yourself, then the installation instructions will help. Our tips on will help you learn this from photo and video instructions. If something is not clear, then ask in the comments, we will definitely answer.

Do-it-yourself single-level suspended ceiling

Plasterboard ceilings have a number of irrefutable achievements. It hides all the imperfections of your ceiling (cracks, bumps, etc.) It is very convenient to hide wires under such a ceiling. And also, the most important advantage is a flat surface.

Plasterboard ceilings are very diverse and numerous in terms of design. You can make such a ceiling from GKL, for every taste. There is no limit to choice and imagination, they have different color scheme, are single-level, . Plasterboard ceilings allow you to improve the lighting in your house or apartment and give it originality and elegance. On suspended ceilings, it is very convenient to place the light in a way that suits you and that you like to look at it. There is an opportunity to spend to save yourself from unnecessary noise.

Such a ceiling is suitable for any room, so to speak "universal". You can make such a ceiling even in the bathroom, you first need to treat the sheets with a special compound that repels water. Now let's look at how to install a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. To do this, below is a kind of photo-instruction, we tried to make it as clear and simple as possible. You will be available on your own.

The procedure for the manufacture of plasterboard ceiling

Brief designations and concepts for the installation of a suspended ceiling from hl.

There are only two technologies for mounting walls with sheets. This is a technology called Knauf and Giprok. You can see them for yourself and evaluate them. Experienced craftsmen prefer Gyprock technology, since our suspensions and profiles, so to speak, are the basis of which the entire supporting structure of the suspended ceiling consists and on which they are actually attached later, drywall sheets, to put it mildly, are not made according to European standards, as well as many things ... In a word, check out how.

The design of your plasterboard ceiling, first of all, must be durable. And all other parts (fastenings and suspensions) must be very well fixed to the base itself at such a distance as to prevent the drywall sheets from sagging. Because it is sagging that leads to the appearance of cracks between the joints of the sheets and the appearance of bumps. For fixing drywall, you need to select high-quality and technological ones.

Materials and tools for mounting a suspended plasterboard ceiling

Knauf direct suspension Self-tapping screws you will need

First of all, these are special suspensions (photo on the left), which must be attached to the base. So that they are firmly and securely fastened, they use the so-called dowel-nails (photo on the left) or metal anchor wedges. More preferably - a dowel-nail. Profiles with a width of 70 mm are attached to the suspensions with the help of the so-called "kids", shown in the figure below under the number 1, (screws with a gimlet for metal, they better "enter" the profile). Then the drywall sheets themselves come with a width of 12.5 mm, they are screwed with screws indicated in the photo on the right under the number 2. Measure each piece yourself in length, depending on the size of the ceiling. You will also need a laser level. And do not forget about a tape measure, a pencil, a puncher and a screwdriver, you can’t do without it. The video tutorial below shows everything clearly. Calculate the required number of sheets and profiles, components, our free will help.

Suspension attachment to the ceiling

Do-it-yourself installation example of a single-level suspended ceiling

First you need to outline a line for the initial profile, for this, use a laser or water level to help. The distance from the ceiling should be 10–20 cm, make sure that you can hide electrical wiring, communications, etc. Set the level up. Mark the outline of this line with a pencil on the wall. Then attach the guides along the perimeter of the room along this horizontal line with dowels 350-500 mm apart.

Checking the flatness of the ceiling

The next step will be marking the ceiling under the main bearing guides. First you need to draw parallel lines more than 125 cm, and this is about half a sheet of drywall. Drywall sheets will be attached with a small gap between them, and when we putty, that could be filled with gypsum mixture to seal the seams between the sheets. The main profiles will run along the edges of the sheet and in the middle, keep in mind. And along these lines we will fix the suspensions on metal anchor wedges or dowels 400 mm in size.

Now you can take the profile guides and insert them into the starting frame, which we fixed around the perimeter of the walls of the room. The only thing that is not advisable to do is to insert them close to the wall, you need to leave a small gap so that there is no deformation of the ceiling from various unforeseen circumstances, like thermal expansion. Therefore, we insert guides into our suspensions. We fasten the guides to the hangers with metal screws, 2 on each side of the profile. Be sure to check the horizontal level with a long level or a laser.

Connection option without crab

Further, the installation of a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands involves marking and inserting longitudinal profiles (photo on the right). It is recommended to look at the specification for transverse installation of drywall sheets of guides of about 600 mm, and for longitudinal installation - 400 mm. You can choose the design option yourself and watch the video. Here we will consider the transverse mount. You can easily cut the longitudinal profiles from the guides with metal scissors to the length you need. Then insert the longitudinal profiles between the guides also in increments of about 500mm. They should be located so that their ends do not fall into the places of fastening of the guide profiles with suspensions.

Connection with start profile Connecting to the main profile using a crab

Longitudinal profiles are attached to the guides using special crabs, photo on the left. To make the structure more durable, use a different design for fastening the longitudinal profiles. Two segments are attached to the carrier profile and a longitudinal one is inserted into them. It is this method that strengthens the structure very well. You can fix the longitudinal profile with the help of suspensions, approximately in the middle of each.

We fix drywall sheets to the ceiling frame ourselves

Finished and insulated frame

So the main frame for the GKL ceiling is ready. Now you need to sheathe it with sheets of drywall. Before that, process each sheet from the side of the ceiling, this will improve the waterproofing, after fixing, process it from the back side. Set back a few millimeters from the wall so that the drywall can breathe. Attach the sheets across the longitudinal profiles. Attach the first sheet from the wall, and the next one starting from the first longitudinal profile. Distance (between wall and longitudinal profile) seal with half of the sheet. Thus, we pass the entire ceiling. Fasten drywall sheets to all laid profiles with metal screws in increments of about 15-20 cm.

The heads of the self-tapping screws do not need to be strongly recessed, they should be almost flush, but so that they do not stick out above the plane of the drywall. A screwdriver with a stiffness limiter will help you with this, set it in such a way as to achieve the triggering of the limiter on a light recess of the self-tapping screw. Make a gap between the sheets of 2-3 mm, which is useful for further sealing the joints with a gypsum mixture.

That's all. It remains only to cover up the joints that formed between the sheets. It is necessary to first pass it with a primer, when puttying, it may be necessary to tighten the protruding screws. To close the joints well, use special blends or plaster mix. A sticky reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass is superimposed on it. And smooth everything with a spatula so that it does not stick out. When everything is dry, smooth out all puttied areas from stains with fine sandpaper. In the same way, the gaps that have formed between the wall and the drywall sheets are processed. The ceiling is completely puttied with a gypsum mixture, try to do it without streaks if you do it for painting, and if you do it under wallpaper, then this may not be visible.

So the do-it-yourself plasterboard suspended ceiling is ready. Then you can do whatever you want with it. Glue wallpaper, paint and so on. If you did everything right, then the ceiling will serve you for a very long time. Ceilings are also multi-level, it is written about this. Now check out the video installation instructions to consolidate knowledge before practice.

Video how to install a false ceiling yourself

A simple way to self-mount a hl sheet on the ceiling without helpers

Thinking about how to design a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands? For knowing person it is not difficult to implement such an idea, and for a beginner it is a completely solvable task. This is a great way to save money and learn an important skill if you're doing it for the first time. Having mastered the ceiling, it will not be difficult for you to make slopes, piers, sheathe the walls with this material. Drywall is very popular, almost no repair is complete without its use. And there are a number of reasons for this.

  1. Drywall, a sheet of which consists of gypsum lined with cardboard, is absolutely environmentally friendly. It does not release toxins and is non-allergic. Therefore, ceilings from it are made in bedrooms, children's rooms and any other residential premises.
  2. Its surface is smooth, even and without cracks. Perfect for both painting and wallpapering.
  3. Good sound absorption, thermal insulation qualities.
  4. Ability to create original design ceiling, for example, the construction of a multi-level structure using stucco.
  5. Plasticity (sheets can be bent by moistening before that, and then, after drying warm air, use for finishing curved surfaces).
  6. Helps to hide communications (ventilation ducts, water pipes, various cables), use built-in types of fixtures.

So, after evaluating all the advantages, you decided to equip the suspended ceiling using this finishing material. The next step is to choose a specific variety.

Varieties of drywall, their properties

  • GKL - plasterboard sheet, lined on both sides with soft cardboard glued to the surface of the plaster. The standard length of such sheets can be 2000, and 2500, and 2600, and 2750, and 3000 mm, and the width is 1200 mm. They are 12.5 and 9.5 mm thick. For residential areas, it is better to use 9.5 to lighten the weight of the structure. Finished with gray cardboard.
  • GKLO - fire-resistant plasterboard. It is usually not used in apartments, but only in industries, for finishing air ducts, communication shafts.
  • GKLV - waterproof plasterboard. They are used in bathrooms and kitchens, bathrooms, but only if there is exhaust ventilation and protection of the front surface with waterproofing compounds, ceramic tiles, waterproof paints, primers or ceramic tiles. Finished with green cardboard.
  • GKLVO - moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard sheet of increased fire resistance. Combines the properties of all of the above.
  • GVL - gypsum fiber sheets. They are not covered with cardboard. Gypsum is reinforced with special fluffed cellulose waste paper. Such sheets have increased hardness and resistance to flame. They correspond to the standard dimensions of an ordinary sheet, but their thickness is greater - 6 or 10 mm.
  • GVLV - moisture resistant gypsum-fiber sheets.

Installation and installation of a suspended ceiling

This is a design of 4 main elements:

1. Drywall sheets.

Sheets of moisture resistant drywall

2. Ceiling guide profiles UD (28-27 mm) and main ceiling profiles CD (60x27 mm). Guides - fastened to the wall just below the ceiling level along the entire room around the perimeter. The main bearing profiles (longitudinal) are already inserted into them. Between them are the main secondary (transverse) profiles. Drywall sheets are attached to these profiles (both longitudinal and transverse). They can be recognized by the C-shaped curved edges, longitudinal corrugations and stiffeners.

Connection of the main ceiling profile and wall guide

3. Direct suspensions (universal) and with a clamp. Most often, direct universal U-shaped suspensions are used, which are attached to the main ceiling, and the main profiles are already attached to them. Suspensions have frequent holes in the side parts. This allows you to screw the profile to them at different heights, adjusting it.

The location of the hangers on the base ceiling

4. Connecting elements: anchors and dowels, with which suspensions are attached to the ceiling, crab fasteners - fasten the main longitudinal with the main transverse profiles, dowels that attach the guide profiles to the wall.

Usually frames, consisting of profiles on suspensions, are divided into two types: single-level and multi-level.

Plasterboard ceilings, respectively, too.

To install a plasterboard ceiling, you will need the following tools:

  1. Level (preferably water)
  2. Roulette
  3. Drill with a perforator with various nozzles: for mixing the solution, for drilling (drill), for cutting the necessary holes for the lamps)
  4. screwdriver
  5. A simple triangle or square (to measure right angles)
  6. Paint cord breaker or pencil
  7. Construction hacksaw
  8. fishing line
  9. Plane
  10. Ceiling spotlight

For the final stage of leveling the ceiling you will need:

  1. Sandpaper
  2. Putty knife
  3. putty
  4. construction knife
  5. Container for putty
  6. Reinforcing tape

How to make a plasterboard ceiling: step by step instructions

After all the materials, tools and components are prepared, you can proceed with the installation.

1. First, we determine how much the new suspended ceiling will be below the base one. You will have to sacrifice at least 10 cm, because a standard built-in lamp will take 9 cm in height.

2. We make markings on the walls around the entire perimeter for attaching guide profiles. For these purposes, in all corners, we measure the height of the room. Having chosen the lowest angle, we mark the required distance from the floor (namely from the floor, but not from the ceiling), we mark the horizontal line along the entire wall using the water level. The lines can be beaten off with a masking cord at the points indicated by the level.

3. We drill holes for dowels in the wall along the wall lines in increments of 30-40 ms, then fasten the guide profiles.

4. Now we mount suspensions on the ceiling in increments of 60-70 cm, having previously outlined parallel lines, i.e. making markings to serve as a guide.

5. Insert the main profiles into the guides.

Gypsum ceiling frame: main profiles inserted into rails and connected to hangers

6. We fasten the main profiles to the suspensions, then bend them. For evenness, it is desirable to pull the fishing line or cord.

7. We attach the main secondary profiles to the main profiles. They are fixed in places where it is planned to join drywall sheets. It turns out a kind of metal lattice, which is a single-level frame.

8. We lay wires for future wiring. Do not forget to cut grooves through which the cable will pass. The grooves must be located in the wall from the switch to the ceiling. After running the cable, do the wiring in the ceiling, let out the free ends for the lamps in the predetermined places.

9. The next step is to attach drywall to the frame.

Fastening the material to the frame

After the metal frame is built, it is necessary to attach plasterboard sheets to it. This is not an easy procedure, the implementation of which is divided into several stages:

Fastening a drywall sheet to a metal frame: horizontal control with a spirit level

1. Cut with a hacksaw - special, with fine teeth (or a regular clerical knife). It is best to cut sheets of 120x250 or 120x125 cm. The main thing is that the ends of the sheet exactly fall on the supporting frame laths. Sheets should lie on a flat surface (preferably on a table) horizontally. Next, along the level, run along the drywall with a knife from the front side. Then slide the sheet off the table and break it. Then turn over and cut the cardboard on the other side.

2. The edge formed after the cut is treated with a planer. It should turn out smooth, without kinks. All protruding edges are trimmed with a sharp knife.

3. Cut holes for recessed lights and ceiling outlets. They should be carefully measured, determining the exact location on the sheet, then marked, and then cut out with a drill with the right nozzle or a hacksaw. If pipes will pass through the drywall, then the diameter of the hole must be made> 10 than the diameter of the pipe.

4. Finishing the ceiling with plasterboard. Gypsum boards can be attached to frames in two ways: longitudinal and transverse. With transverse fastening, they are located perpendicular to the main load-bearing metal profiles. With longitudinal - in parallel with the main bearing profiles. If there are additional laths, then the fastening of the sheets must be carried out from their corner in two perpendicular directions. If there are no additional laths, then fastening is carried out from the end of the sheet or from its center. Self-tapping screws are installed 10-15 mm from the edge of the sheets. Screws are installed from the front surface of the sheet perpendicularly and to such a depth that their heads cannot penetrate the cardboard and do not protrude above the front surface. They must also fit into the metal frame > 10 mm deep. The length of the self-tapping screws is selected based on the total thickness of the planned drywall sheathing. The maximum allowable distance from one self-tapping screw to another is 150 mm. This value can be doubled if tiled repeatedly. In the guide profile, the screws must be installed closer to its back wall, then the screw will not be able to bend the profile shelf inward. Cardboard should not be disheveled in places where screws will be attached. If the screws are deformed or were placed by mistake, then they are removed and new ones are placed at a distance not< 50 мм от неудачного места крепления.

Important! The joints of the sheets must be located on the profile!

Gypsum boards do not need to be made close to the walls. It is better not to putty the gap, but to cover it with a ceiling corner. Then, in case of expansion of the plates, it will be possible to avoid deformation of the ceiling. When directly attaching the plates to the ceiling, you need to work together, or use props.

The plates should be placed horizontally, adjusted to each other and screwed to the frame with screws.

Important! Before installation, drywall must not< 2-х суток вылежаться в помещении, в котором он будет монтирован. Тогда он приобретет влажность и температуру помещения.

5. Puttying joints. Do not spat immediately. Wait 2 days. Then inspect the joints for defects and eliminate them. Clean the surface from particles and dust. It is better to use reinforcing tape, laying it in all joints. It prevents cracking. If you use expensive, high-quality putty, then it is enough to process only the joints (and then paint over fiberglass from an airbrush), if cheap, then you should putty the entire ceiling, and then paint with a roller. Sequencing:

- clean the edges of the seam, moisten them, fill the seams with putty, pressing it with a spatula;
- having applied the main layer of putty, lay the reinforcing tape, pressing it with a spatula. Do not leave air bubbles. Cover the surface of the tape with a thin layer of putty and wait for complete drying;
- sand the joints with sandpaper;
- apply a layer of putty on a pre-dried layer;
- apply another leveling layer of putty and allow to dry;
- Remove irregularities with sandpaper.

Second level ceiling device

Installation of the second level of the plasterboard ceiling: the construction of a curly frame

  1. Plan in advance, draw a drawing, outline it on the ceiling.
  2. Beat off the height of the second from the first level of the ceiling.
  3. We fix the guide profile.
  4. We install the main guides of the second level to the main guides, stiffeners of the first.
  5. We bend the profile for the required radius sections.
  6. We spread the wires under the lamps.
  7. We cut out the plate of the desired shape and fasten it, as in the first level.
  8. We cut out a strip of drywall and close the box.
  9. We install lamps.
  10. Plastering.

If you strictly follow the above instructions, then there will be no questions left on how to fix drywall to the ceiling. You can do everything thoughtfully and accurately. It is enough to show patience, make an effort, and you can get an excellent do-it-yourself ceiling design.