Repair 

How to make a chain link fence yourself. How to build a chain-link fence with your own hands - all mounting options and decor ideas How to put a chain-link fence yourself

A simple and inexpensive way to mark the boundaries of ownership of the territory is to install a chain-link fence. Of course, today there are many alternative materials that have a more presentable appearance, for example,. But they are more expensive and time-consuming to install, more suitable for the capital external fencing of a country house.

And if you need to protect the building site, summer cottage, to separate the economic zone from the residential area, or to make an aviary for animals?

Is it reasonable to spend a lot of money and a lot of time, to attract specialists, if you can make a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands in one day, and the result will be achieved? The following describes the manufacturing technology, calculation and installation in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Benefits of a chain link fence

  • saving financial resources. The price of a chain-link fence is almost the lowest of all options fence. Only a wattle fence can compete in price, but otherwise it will lose;
  • light weight. There is no need for a massive frame or foundation pouring;
  • strength and resistance to environmental factors: moisture, temperature extremes, ultraviolet, fire, mechanical damage;
  • light transmission. A chain-link fence does not create obstacles for the penetration of sunlight, which means that there will be no shaded areas on the site and the plants will feel comfortable in any part of it;
  • undemanding maintenance and no need for repairs;
  • ability to withstand a significant load. For example, wooden fence it is easier to break through than to break a metal network;
  • availability. You can buy a chain-link mesh at any hardware store or on the market;
  • wide range, allows you to choose the one that better fit for specific needs;
  • high installation speed. You can install a chain-link fence with two people in one day.

Of course, the mesh fence is not without drawbacks, including: unattractive appearance, "transparency" of the fence and the need for painting. Some of the shortcomings are easily leveled if you know how to choose the right chain-link mesh.

Types of mesh chain-link for the fence - which is better

When choosing which chain-link mesh to use for fencing, you need to take into account its main parameters:

1. Production material:

  • low-carbon steel (mesh is more ductile);
  • stainless steel (rigid mesh).

2. Outer coating:

  • ungalvanized chain link. Wire thickness - 1.2-5 mm, mesh size 50-100 mm. Such a mesh is prone to rust, and needs to be painted;
  • galvanized chain link. Wire thickness - 1.6-5 mm, mesh size 50-100 mm. Does not need protection, has a long service life;
  • plasticized (metal with a polymer coating). Wire thickness - 2.5-2.8 mm, mesh size 25-50 mm. More presentable, with a high-quality coating has a long service life.

Advice. Ask the seller for a certificate that confirms the quality of the coating. A simple PVC coating without additives that guarantee its resistance to ultraviolet and frost will soon become unusable.

3. Netting cell dimensions

The smaller the cells, the smaller the living creatures will crawl through the grid. This is true when building a fence, for example, for chickens or ducklings. But, such a mesh will be heavier, it will take more metal to make it, which means it will be more expensive. For fence the best option is a grid with a cell of 50x50.

After the grid is selected, it's time to move on to the main work, namely, to create a sketch of the fence, calculate materials and install the fence (tension and sectional).

How to make a chain-link fence with your own hands

Stage 1. Chain link fence drawing

A drawing or sketch is a working graphic document that contains the following data:

  • the location of the fence installation, taking into account access roads, trees, houses, other buildings on the site, etc.;
  • relief features. If the site has a slope or elevation changes, the diagram will help determine which is more appropriate: level the soil or make a cascading fence;
  • fence length. Since the width is determined by the width of the grid, there is no need to consider the length;
  • place of installation of supporting pillars and props.

Types of chain-link fences by frame type

When designing a fence, a decision is also made as to which chain-link fence frame will be used. Due to the fact that there are three ways to attach the mesh, there are three types of frame.

  • tension fence- easy to mount. The price of a tension fence from a grid the chain-link - is minimum. In order to build it, you need to install supports and stretch the grid. The design flaw is that the mesh will sag over time;

  • stretch fence with broach. A broach in the form of a strong wire serves as a support supporting the mesh, preventing it from sagging;

  • sectional fence. Requires more expenses for the purchase of a corner for the frame and longer time for the manufacture of sections. Although you can buy ready-made sections on the market. Naturally, the price of a sectional fence made of chain-link mesh is the highest, but the design is more reliable and practical.

Note. With uneven terrain on the site, it is better to give preference to a fence from sections, this will allow you to put a fence from a chain-link mesh, taking into account elevation changes, without leveling the ground plane.

The correct drawing of a chain-link fence contains a description of the fence with key dimensions and main nodes, incl. arrangement of corners.

Stage 2. Material for building a fence: selection and calculation

Installing a chain-link fence will take only one or two days, if you prepare all the materials and tools necessary for the job in advance.

Construction Materials:

  1. Rabitz. Its requirements are described above.
  2. Tension wire (when installing a tension fence). The function is to support the mesh, provide additional attachment points and eliminate the possibility of sagging. Galvanized wire with a thickness of 2 mm is suitable for the fence. (from 130 rubles/m.p.).

    As a stronger alternative to wire, reinforcement is used that is welded between posts or a thin pipe. These materials exclude mesh theft.

  3. Support posts for a chain-link fence.
  4. Profile corners (for the manufacture of a sectional fence). With the help of corners, a frame of individual sections is formed, which are installed on support pillars. The average price of a corner 40x40x3 is 97 rubles / m.p.
  5. Thin wire or other fasteners for attaching the mesh.
  6. Cement and sand (for concreting supporting pillars).
  7. Protective compositions for processing wood or metal.

From the tool you will need: a tape measure, a rope for marking the site, a shovel or a drill.

What poles can be used for a chain-link fence

metal poles

A hollow profile of round or square section is used. The versatility of a metal pole is undeniable. The iron support does not need to be processed during installation (only priming and painting), any kind of fasteners are welded to the metal.
For a chain-link fence, a round post with a diameter of 60 mm is suitable. (average price for a metal thickness of 2 mm - 159 rubles / m.p.) or rectangular, with a section of 40x60 (price for a wall thickness of 2 mm - 163 rubles / m.p.).

wooden poles

Although this is the simplest solution, wooden poles have the disadvantage of being susceptible to weather and microbial activity. In addition, dense wood (oak, elm) is not cheap. You can use more popular species - pine, birch. With proper processing and constant care, they will last 20-25 years. However, in practice, wooden chain-link fence posts are used for temporary structures. For a fence, a pole with a size of 100x100 mm (70 rubles / m.p.) is suitable.

brick pillars

Strong and massive supports are too expensive for a mesh fence, therefore, they are not used in practice. In addition, under them it is necessary to fill the foundation.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

concrete pillars

Relatively inexpensive material. You can do it yourself or buy ready-made ones (approximate price for one support 80x80x2000 - 350 rubles / piece). It is relevant if the store is in the immediate vicinity of the installation site, otherwise the cost of transport will significantly increase the cost of a fence from a chain-link mesh. At the same time, the attachment of the grid to concrete pillar has its own specifics.

Asbestos-cement pipes

They are characterized by relative cheapness (the price of a pipe is 100x3000 - 300 rubles), strength and resistance to decay. But stretching the mesh is inconvenient, requiring the use of clamps or clamps. In addition, the pipes are hollow, they just need to be closed with plugs, otherwise the frozen water will simply break the pipe from the inside.

Stage 3. Calculation of the fence from the chain-link mesh

  1. Number of m.p. (linear meters) of the grid depends on the size of the plot. Usually the chain-link is sold in rolls of 10 m. The price of a non-galvanized mesh chain-link 50x50x2 mm - from 48 rubles / sq.m. The price of a polymer mesh 50x50x2.2 mm - from 221 rubles / sq.m.
  2. The length of the wire for stretching is equal to two lengths of the fence (or three if the wire is installed in the middle). With a fence height of 1500 mm, 2-3 pieces are enough.
  3. The number of posts depends on the perimeter of the site (total length of the fence) and is calculated based on the fact that the maximum distance between adjacent posts is 2,500 mm. This rule is the same for stretch fences and sectional fences.
  4. The length of the profile corner is equal to the perimeter of the frame multiplied by the number of sections.
  5. Wire for fastening or other fasteners depending on the method of fastening.

Stage 4. Installing a chain-link fence with your own hands

The sequence of work.

1. Soil surface preparation

The installation site of the fence does not need serious cleaning. It is enough to remove debris and eliminate interfering plants and shrubs. At the same time, plants that will grow near the grid (and not near the supporting post) can be left if their development does not lead to deformation of the grid.

2. Pouring the foundation for a chain-link fence

Do you need a foundation for a chain-link fence? There are fences installed on the foundation. fill concrete base can only be explained by the installation of a grid using heavy metal sections. Which in most cases is unjustified.

3. Installation of posts for a chain-link fence

Fence post preparation

  • Treatment wooden poles - the timber should be treated with an antiseptic (a solution that prevents wood decay) according to the level of penetration into the soil. The SENEZH product line has proven itself well (price from 90 rubles/l).
  • Processing of metal poles- iron supports must be derusted and coated with a corrosion inhibitor (prevention of rust development). Conferum products are in demand, which supplies several types of primers.

How deep should chain-link fence posts be buried?

Despite the minimum net windage, the chain-link is heavy, with a length of 2.5 meters (between the supports) and a height of 1.5 m, the fence can tilt or fall. Therefore, support pillars are installed to a depth of up to 1 meter, under certain conditions (fence height, type of soil on the site), the minimum depth of the pit is 50-80 cm.

Ways to install fence posts

Installation on hard ground (clay)

Installation is possible in two ways:

  • Firstly, by driving or screwing the supports to the desired depth. This method has a significant drawback, which manifests itself in the fact that it is difficult to maintain the installation level when clogging and it is easy to deform the top of the clogged pipe. Therefore, it must be covered with plywood to avoid deformation.
  • Secondly, by drilling / digging a hole for it, followed by pouring concrete. In this case, the installation depth of the support is chosen taking into account the level of soil freezing. However, some masters argue that this is not necessary.

Installation on loose and heaving soils

The technology is more time-consuming, here the masters also distinguish two installation options:

  • First, install the support 20 cm below the freezing level of the soil. Then the heaving of the soil will not squeeze out the pipe.
  • Secondly, replace the soil around the support. To do this, you need to make a hole of a larger diameter (twice the diameter of the pipe) and replace the soil in this place with crushed stone, at a height of 40 cm to the soil surface, the column is concreted. This method creates drainage, which takes on the heaving of the soil and levels it. In this case, the column will definitely not lead.

Advice. Hand drilling, especially when in large numbers holes for posts - a very time-consuming task. It is better to find / rent / buy a motor drill, with which guide holes of 50-60 cm are made, the remaining 40-50 cm of the pipe (pillar) are clogged with a sledgehammer.

How to install chain link fence posts

Installing posts for a chain-link fence is no different from arranging other types of fences. Installation order:

  • corner posts are installed first. When tensioned, they are subjected to the greatest load, so it is advisable to reinforce them with spacers (oblique supports). The purpose of the struts is to prevent the tilt of the support. As an option, you can put more powerful pillars (thick-walled) in the corners;
  • poles are installed at the break of the fence (at the corners of the fence, at the corners);
  • a rope is stretched between the already installed pillars, along which, first of all, supports for gates and gates are mounted;
  • settles down entry group( , ). Please note that the entrance group of the chain-link fence is always made in the form of a section, reinforced with additional jumpers;
  • after that, ordinary pillars are installed. It is advisable to make the distance between them the same. This rule is mandatory when installing a sectional fence.

Note. Hollow metal pipes closed with plugs to prevent water from entering inside and the appearance of rust.

4. Guide wire for stretching the chain-link mesh

The task of the wire (cable) is to ensure a strong tension of the mesh between the posts. The necessary tension is provided by such methods of fastening the chain-link:

  • tensioner;
  • lanyard;
  • hook with a long thread;
  • staples, clamps, spans and clamps only keep the wire from sagging on intermediate posts. They are not used as tensioners.

The order of stretching the chain-link: one end of the net is tied to the corner support post, and the other is stretched. If the length of the fence is too long, intermediate fasteners are installed. Their function is to support the wire.

Note. Some users advise passing the guide wire through the grid cells. But this option is only suitable when installing a small fence, because stretching the wire along the entire length, and then installing the mesh on supports is a difficult and pointless task.

5. Fastening the chain-link mesh to the posts

  • install on a stretched tension wire;
  • fasten to the armature;
  • install in a section and secure in separate sections.

How to stretch the mesh between the pillars of the supports when building a tension fence

The chain-link mesh roll is installed vertically near the corner post (attached to metal posts). In this case, the folded edges of the mesh should be oriented upwards. This reduces the risk of injury from the sharp ends of the wire.

Advice. If a non-galvanized chain-link mesh is installed, then the craftsmen recommend raising it above the ground by 100-150 mm.

The grid is fixed in several places on the support. Then, gradually unwinding, the mesh is pulled and at the same time attached to the upper horizontal jumper (wire or reinforcement).

When the first roll is over, the mesh is pulled over the bottom jumper. In this case, it is important to unravel all the tangled spirals of the grid.

After that, the second roll is screwed to the first roll (together), and the second roll is unwound with tension.

Note. If the work is carried out with an assistant, then the connection (bundle of rolls) can be performed on a canopy. If on your own, then you need to connect the pieces when the mesh is not completely stretched, and its edge can be stretched along the length on the ground. Sometimes tying is done by using a wooden bridge to which the edges of both rolls are attached.

After installing the chain-link mesh along the entire length of the fence, the mesh is fixed on the middle jumper.

When pulling the wire, special attention should be paid to the corners. Here you need to be extremely careful to avoid skewing the mesh web.

How to stretch the mesh between the pillars of the supports when building a sectional fence

First, let's look at how to make sections for a fence from a chain-link mesh

  • from a metal corner you need to make a frame. Frame parameters: length is equal to the length of the support pipe minus 100-150 mm; the width is equal to the distance between adjacent supports;
  • the corner is dissolved into blanks with the help of a grinder;
  • blanks are welded into a frame;
  • Next, we work with the grid. The required size is unwound from the chain-link roll and separated by twisting the wire;
  • a reinforcing bar is inserted into all four sides of the grid. The rod allows you to stretch the mesh to the edge of the corner;
  • the rod is welded to the edges of the frame inside the corner. Thus, the chain-link is fastened to the corner.

There is another option, which involves welding on the inside of the corner of metal pins (hooks) 3 mm thick. Then the pins are bent inward with pliers, and a mesh is pulled over them. After the entire mesh is stretched, you need to weld the edges of the hooks to make a loop. This eliminates the possibility of the grid slipping.

After the frame is ready, we proceed to its installation. To fasten a separate section to a profile pipe, you need to weld a metal plate onto the support and weld the section to it.

It should be noted that it is very difficult for a beginner without experience to make sections for a fence from a chain-link mesh. The difficulties are related to the fact that:

  • it is problematic to make sections of the same size;
  • it is difficult to install a mesh segment tightly, without sagging;
  • the need to perform welding work;
  • the complexity of the installation of fence sections.

Decorative ornament of a chain-link fence

The mesh fence does not have a bright design and attractiveness, but if desired, it will result in a nice and durable fence for the site.

Mesh Fence Decor Ideas

  • openwork weaving. It is carried out with a thin wire on a grid with large cells. A simple pattern can be done with your own hands;

  • decorative gardening. Planting weaving or climbing plants along a mesh fence will create a hedge around the site. Alternatively, you can attach hanging flower pots, as in the photo on the right;

  • in order not to wait until the greenery grows and braids the fence, the grid can be decorated with decorative wire flowers;

  • creative design. With a little imagination, you can create original and fun decorations for a chain-link fence.

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence - video

The cost of a chain-link fence

The total costs for the construction of a chain-link fence are determined taking into account the materials used and their quantity. For example, the cost of the material was indicated as they were discussed. The cost per meter is easy to calculate, knowing the consumption of each material and the length of the fence.

The price of a chain-link fence for work with installation for 1 r.m. shown in the table

Thus, a chain-link fence is a cost-effective and prefabricated type of fence that you can do yourself.

The popularity of chain-link fences is explained, first of all, by the ease of installation of the structure, its durability and relatively low cost. Many site owners are interested in how to make a chain-link fence with their own hands, we will tell you. In addition, it should be noted such important qualities of fences from this mesh as:

  • excellent ability to transmit light, which is very important in small areas;
  • breathability, giving good air circulation;
  • low windage of the fence in strong winds;
  • high elasticity of the fence as a result of stretching.

Two or three people will be able to make a fence from a chain-link mesh with their own hands around a plot of 10-15 acres over the weekend, and at the same time they will not be required to be highly qualified in performing construction works.

Video instruction

Types of grids Rabitsa

On the construction market today, you can purchase a grid of 4 types, depending on the material used and what technology it is made of:

  • A simple "black" chain-link, designed for plastering and reinforcement. For use as an external fence is practically not used. It is highly susceptible to corrosion, poorly painted and quite fragile.
  • For the purpose of reliable protection against corrosion, a mesh with a polymer coating is produced. However, it can only be used in sectional structures, since long sections, swaying in the wind, lead to abrasion of the protective coating and the appearance of rust. In addition, the different coefficient of thermal expansion of plastic and metal leads to the mobility of the layers and reduces the life of the fence, its cost will be more expensive.
  • The most used material for fencing is galvanized chain-link. It costs 10-12% more than black, but is made of more ductile wire and has a durable protective layer of zinc. Even better, more reliable and durable stainless steel mesh, but the prices for it are much higher than other materials.
  • Twisted mesh is distinguished by the size of the mesh and the thickness of the wire. A material with a mesh size of 50 mm, made of wire 1.6-2.0 mm, is quite suitable for an external fence. If you have in your yard Domestic bird, then the size of the cell must be reduced to 25-30 mm, and in the presence of livestock, use a reinforced chain-link, made of wire with a diameter of about 4 mm.

The width of the mesh rolled into a roll is from 1.2 m; the length of the material in a roll is from 10 m. Rolls with a length of more than 10 m are rarely bought, since the large weight makes the work much more difficult.

When buying material, it should be noted that only a vertical layer mesh is used for the construction of the fence. The horizontal arrangement of spirals used in reinforcement and plastering works, will seriously complicate the connection of individual canvases, and therefore can only be used for sectional type fences.

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence installation

In private construction, they most often enclose their site using the following technologies for arranging a fence from a chain-link mesh:

  • a solid canvas stretched along the strings;
  • solid canvas, fixed on the veins;
  • with the use of slang;
  • fence assembled from sections;

Each method has its own operational properties, differs in cost. necessary materials and complexity of the work.

The simplest device has a chain-link fence in the form of a continuous web stretched along three horizontal strings.

It features good resilience and wind resistance, with the lowest material costs. However, to ensure a reliable tension of the strings, it is necessary to firmly install with obligatory concreting, and on the corner and gate pillars it is necessary to put jibs to stop. Thanks to simple device these are the most common fences for country cottage from the chain-link mesh.

In the vein construction, the role of strings is played by a metal rod, a round or shaped pipe of small cross section. Installing such a fence will be stronger and more stable, since all the pillars are connected into a single steel structure. Therefore, in the case of dense soils, a smaller amount of concrete is required for the installation of pillars and jibs are not needed. As a result, the costs of building such a fence are approximately the same, compared to the construction of the strings, and it is better to build it due to the fact that no stretch is required. More materials will be needed to build a fence along the slabs. Slegs are load-bearing horizontal lintels made of boards, a steel corner, a profile or round pipe and other materials. Depending on the height of the fence, 2, 3, and sometimes 4 legs are fixed. Such designs are most often used when installing reinforced wire fences or with a high fence height.

An important quality of solid fences along the slopes is the ability to install them on slopes and uneven terrain. When warped, the mechanical properties of the chain-link are significantly reduced, but strong slegs securely hold all the elements, giving the structure strength and stability.

The prefabricated sectional fence consists of individual sections fixed on clamps or by welding between the posts. Each section is a metal frame made of a corner, inside of which a chain-link mesh is stretched, designed for a fence. Such fences are expensive due to the large amount of material used, but they are distinguished by a beautiful appearance. In addition, this best design for grids with a polymeric protective coating.

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence device

Installing a chain-link fence with your own hands

Pole installation

Before you make a chain-link fence, you need to install support posts. They can be made of steel or asbestos-cement pipes, as well as wood. Industrial enterprises I manufacture ready-made metal poles, painted, with welded hooks for hanging nets or with clamping mounting paws for sectional ones.

Fence mesh chain-link on poles, made by hand , it looks beautiful if the pillars comply with generally accepted standards, which are presented below.

steel round pipes with a diameter of 60-80 mm, with a wall thickness of 2.5-3.0 mm;

steel profile pipes 40 × 40 - 60 × 60 mm, with a wall thickness of 3.0 mm;

· asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 100-120 mm;

Pine poles with a diameter of 100 mm;

wood hardwood 80 mm in diameter.

Depth of pillars into the ground at least 80 cm with obligatory bottling or concreting.

Attention! It is not recommended to install prefabricated sectional fences on wooden and asbestos-cement poles, since they do not withstand transverse loads well.

We concrete the pole, setting it according to the level

Fixing wooden poles in the ground is possible by butting. To do this, a layer of crushed stone with sand 20-25 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the dug pit, a pole is installed vertically, a layer of rubble 15-20 cm is laid, a thin layer of sand is poured and rubble again until the top of the pit is reached. Before installing wooden fence posts with your own hands, their underground part must be treated twice with bituminous mastic and wrapped with roofing material. Top part treated with an oily water-repellent agent, and then painted.

All types of pillars can be reinforced with concreting. To do this, a layer of rubble is poured under each pillar, and then the installed pillar and the pit is poured with concrete. When installing asbestos-cement supports, the lower part is reinforced with steel wire.

Instructions for hanging and tensioning the mesh along the strings

After installing the pillars, they begin to tension the mesh. First of all, the extreme corner post is supported with jibs. It is also recommended to strengthen the intermediate pillars if the length of the canvas exceeds 10 meters. The stability of the gate posts and gates may not be reinforced if they have a connected crossbar or arched structure.

A steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm is used as a tension string. To achieve good elasticity of the fence, it is recommended to stretch 3 or 4 strings. The wire is fastened after stretching the mesh, using self-tapping screws with hooks or to hooks welded to the post. Therefore, all strings must be passed through the layers horizontally even before the chain-link is stretched.

In many instructions on how to build a chain-link fence, it is recommended to tension the mesh using hoists. However, you can completely get by with the effort of high leverage, but this will require the work of three people. Two will stretch the grid, and the third will fix it. Take a metal rod with a diameter of 10-12 mm and a length slightly less than the post. Pass it through the extreme layers of the net and together with it attach vertically to the extreme post. Tie a metal rod to a pole in 4-5 places or grab it by welding. Do not grab the mesh by welding, only a rod. Raise the net near the next post, stretch it and repeat the operation with fixing with a metal rod. On wooden poles, it is allowed to fasten the chain-link with driven hooks.

How to stretch a chain-link fence along the veins

Mounting the mesh along the veins is similar to the installation along the strings, but instead of wire to support the mesh thicker metal rods or thin steel pipes are used. The veins are threaded into the mesh before it is installed, and after stretching the fabric, they are attached to the poles with clamps, hooks or welding.

The fence on the veins is more rigid and it is not necessary to install jibs to secure the pillars. With a long web length, one-sided support of the corner supports may be necessary.

It should be noted that in this case the top of the fence becomes more rigid and the upper edge of the mesh becomes traumatic. To avoid this, the upper vein must be passed along the grid in 5-6 horizontal rows of cells or cover the sharp edges with a polyethylene tube cut along. At the same time, such protection will additionally serve as a decoration for the fence.

How to put up a chain-link fence on sleds

As a bed for such a fence, boards or a metal corner are used. Fastening to the poles can be carried out using welded metal paws, self-tapping screws or double-sided clamping clamps. Highly important point is the fastening of the mesh to the slings. The mesh is well attached to wooden beams with bent nails or special U-shaped brackets to a steel corner; it can be tied and fixed with metal rods.

Prefabricated sectional fences

Sections of such structures are assembled on the ground from a profile pipe or corner. The mesh is fixed with the help of metal bars laid on the back side of the fence or with a spot tack of the mesh to the frame. For the manufacture of a sectional fence, welding is required.

Estimate for a chain-link fence

The estimate for a chain-link fence, compiled by specialists from any company, includes the cost of the material and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe fence, everything is simple - nothing else. The characteristics of the chain-link today do not know any complaints from consumers:

The cost of the material is budgetary;

Service life of at least 50 years (and this, you see, is not a little);

Ease of delivery and installation of the fence;

The chain-link provides free air circulation;

As well as free access of sunlight to plants planted on the territory.

Finally

With the availability of materials and two assistants, any type of fence from the Rabitsa mesh can be made on your own without recourse to specialists. Be sure to remember the need to protect all metal parts and materials from corrosion, and wood from decay.

You can think about how to decorate the built chain-link fence. To do this, it is sometimes covered with a colored plaster or camouflage mesh, and polymer tapes are also woven into the cells. Besides good view fencing depends on the correct tension between the posts. In case of sagging of the fence, do not postpone the correction for later.

For many years, owners of private houses, summer residents, builders and manufacturers have been using woven mesh as a material for installing fences. This is easily explained by its availability, low cost and ease of installation. With a minimum set of tools, any owner of the site can install a chain-link fence with their own hands.

As a minimum possible set, you must purchase:

  • grid;
  • material for bearing supports;
  • metal bar with a diameter of 6-8 mm;
  • knitting wire;
  • cement, gravel, sand.

Depending on the type of fence construction chosen, other materials may be required. So, for the manufacture of a sectional fence, you will need a corner of 15x15 or 20x20 mm and a metal strip of 20-40 mm. Welding work involves the presence of electrodes.

Mesh selection

A chain-link mesh is a transparent cellular fabric woven from wire spirals of a special shape. The size of the cells can be in the range from 20 to 100 mm. Web width - from 1000 to 2000 mm. The material is delivered rolled up in rolls of 8-16 meters.

Depending on the wire material and the presence of a protective coating, on the market building materials 4 types of chain-link mesh can be purchased:

  • from a simple steel wire without a sheeting, "black";
  • galvanized;
  • stainless steel;
  • with a protective polymer coating.

"Black" designed for reinforcement during plastering and concrete works. It is not recommended to use it for fencing due to fragility as a result of strong susceptibility to corrosion.

Galvanized sheet is an the most common material for mounting a chain-link fence due to affordable cost and durability. Such a mesh, even in the most adverse operating conditions, will last at least 15 years.

Fence stainless wire will be practically eternal. However, the main disadvantage of this material is its high cost. In addition, it must be taken into account that when using a stainless mesh, it will be necessary to install poles made of appropriate materials and, most likely, to abandon welding joints. This will increase the final cost of the fence and complicate installation.

chain link with polymer protective coating Produced in a wide range of colors, looks beautiful, durable. The main problem is that at the intersections of individual wires, the polymer coating wears down to the metal over time and an active corrosion process begins.

To install fences around the site, weaving with a wire thickness of 3-4 mm, a mesh size of 30-50 mm and a web width of 1200-1500 mm is most often used.

Such sizes of the chain-link mesh for the fence will ensure the achievement of the most optimal price option. Cells less than 30 mm are used in the construction of fences for birds and small domestic animals, more than 50 mm are used mainly in industrial facilities, airports, agricultural land and other vast areas.

The choice of material for the pillars

There are several options available from various materials. Among the most common are supports from:

  • wood;
  • metal;
  • concrete.

wooden poles- the cheapest, simplest, but very short-lived solution. In order to increase the service life of wooden poles, their lower part must be treated with a special impregnation and covered with a layer bituminous mastic. The rest of the surface must be impregnated with drying oil and painted.

metal racks can be made from steel pipes square, rectangular or round section, as well as from an equal angle. Other types of shaped metal products are more expensive, their use will no longer be economically justified.

Concrete supports they are durable and reliable, but they make it difficult to fix the grid, and it’s quite difficult to put such poles.

The best and most common option today is the installation of metal poles from a rectangular profile pipe with a section of 25x40 mm with a wall thickness of 2.5 mm. They perfectly hold a light, wind-permeable fence and, with a protective coating against corrosion, can last for decades.

Calculation of the amount of materials

Determining the amount of materials needed for the construction of a chain-link fence should begin with drawing a future fence scheme on the plan of the fenced area. The recommended distance between the posts is 2.5-3.5 meters.

Reducing the pitch will increase the number of poles and increase costs. Large distances between the supports will not allow for high-quality mesh tension and will greatly complicate the installation process.

On the diagram drawn, mark all the installation sites of the pillars and, based on this, determine their total number. Multiplying the number of poles by their height, taking into account the underground part, you will get the total length of the pipe to use as poles.

The length of the chain-link mesh will be equal to the length of the fence on the plan. The connection of individual sheets during installation is not carried out with an overlap, but by inserting connecting twisted wires, which will be discussed below.

An exception is the option of installing a sectional fence. In this case, the total mesh length can be reduced by 5-7%.

The calculation of the amount of cement, sand and crushed stone should be performed depending on the total number of pillars and the consumption of concrete mix for concreting one pillar. The usual depth of the pits is 400-500 mm, the average diameter is 300-350 mm. Accordingly, it turns out that the installation of one pillar will require 0.05 m 3 of concrete. The ratio of cement, sand and gravel is defined as 1:3:4. Therefore, it is possible to determine the amount of building materials for concreting pillars.

When installing a chain-link fence on heaving and weakly stable soils, the posts should be deepened by at least 800 mm. This will double the consumption of building materials and add 400 mm to the height of all pillars.

Fence Installation Procedure

Like most construction works, the installation of a fence is carried out in several successive stages:

Territory preparation and marking

Before you pull the chain-link mesh on the fence, you should deal with clearing the strip along which it will be mounted. In addition, on preparatory stage the necessary materials and tools are supplied.

To mark the places for the installation of poles on each straight segment of the fence, drive in pegs at the mounting points of the two extreme supports. After that, stretch the cord between them and, measuring the required distance, mark with pegs the installation sites of the remaining pillars.

Digging holes, installing and concreting pillars

Digging holes for the installation of poles can be done using the usual bayonet shovel, but it is much more convenient to use a special hole drill. It can be manual or mechanically driven. This will be especially true with a large number of installed pillars.

The diameter of the hole must be at least the size of the pipe section with the addition of 100-150 mm in each direction. The depth of the dug pits is 400-500 mm for ordinary stable soils or 800-1000 mm for heaving, highly moistened and other unstable soils.

The order of installation of the pillars is similar to the markup. On each straight section of the fence, two extreme supports are first installed. After the concrete has hardened, you need to stretch the cord between them and install all the other pillars along it, be sure to check the vertical with the building level. Concrete mixture for pouring pits with installed supports is prepared from cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4.


General procedure for installing a fence.

Mesh installation

As mentioned above, the design of the chain-link fence can be different. Each of the options has its own advantages and disadvantages, usually associated with the level of reliability of the fence and ease of installation.

Tension method

The easiest way involves fixing the mesh on the installed supports without using additional elements and fasteners. To do this, roll the mesh on the ground to a distance of about one and a half spans between the posts. Bend the ends of the wire spirals with pliers if this has not been done by the fabric manufacturer. This will prevent possible injuries during work and improve the appearance of the fence.

The grid laid out on the ground must be lifted and fixed on poles with wire or clamps. You will need an assistant or two to complete the job. It is almost impossible to ensure mesh tension by working alone.

Strengthening the structure with lags

For more reliable fastening of the mesh and prevention of possible sagging over time, horizontal logs can be welded to the installed racks from a thin profile pipe or even a metal bar with a diameter of 6-8 mm.

In the case of using a bar, it can be passed through the cells of the grid before welding, which then does not need to be tied. If a profile pipe is used, then the fence is fixed using plastic self-clamping clamps.

The presence of a log will allow not only to strengthen the structure, but also to place various decorations on the surface of the grid for the final design of the fence. In addition, the lags will pull the entire system into a single whole, i.e. you do not need to install special slopes for the stability of the corner posts.

Fence from sections

This design is a fence in which rectangular sections are fixed between the installed pillars, welded from a corner, inside of which a chain-link mesh is stretched.

It is somewhat more difficult to manufacture, but it has a number of advantages over simple tension systems. To perform the installation of a sectional fence from a chain-link mesh:

  1. on a flat hard surface, draw a rectangle corresponding to the configuration of the section;
  2. put a corner on the line and weld the frame;
  3. inside the shelves of the corner with a pitch of 150-200 mm, weld small pins of wire or rod with a diameter of 6-8 mm;
  4. lay out the mesh inside the section, and pass its edges through the pins;
  5. bend the pins with a hammer, fixing the position of the grid;
  6. sections are fixed on supports by welding pieces of steel strip to the pole and frame.

After installation, all unpainted surfaces must be covered with a layer of paint.

Fence decoration options

A mesh fence can serve not only as a fence of the site, but also as its decoration. For this, the most various ways and materials. One of the most simple options- plant climbing plants along the entire line of the fence. The growing bindweed will fill the entire area, creating a beautiful hedge.

As special materials for decoration, you can use colored twine or polymer ribbons, using them to create a variety of color patterns. Simple, though not very spectacular option, — use of a camouflage net. But here it should be taken into account that its elements burn out in the sun over time and become covered with a persistent coating of dust.

Related videos


Reading time ≈ 5 minutes

Today, with all the variety of fences, few types of construction could replace a hand-made chain-link fence.

Benefits of a chain link fence

  1. Very quick and easy to install with your own hands;
  2. Low cost;
  3. Ease of construction, does not require a reinforced foundation;
  4. Lets light through, will not create conflict situations with neighbors due to the shadow created;
  5. Strict and unobtrusive appearance that fits perfectly into any landscape.

Installation methods

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence can be installed in two ways:

1. Normal, as in the photo above, when the mesh is stretched between two support posts. This method is much cheaper and easier. It is recommended to use in cases where the goal is not to pursue an impeccable appearance, but you just need to quickly and cheaply install a fence.

2. Sectional, as in the photo above, when finished sections of the fence are produced, in which a fragment of the chain-link mesh is fixed. This method will cost a lot more, because you have to get metal corners, the price of which is higher than the mesh itself, but at the same time the fence itself will be much more attractive and practical (for example, you can hang a carpet on top of the fence, something to dry, etc.)

materials

For the installation of such a fence, we need the following materials:

  1. Metal poles 50x50x2x3000 mm;
  2. Chain-link mesh (not galvanized, galvanized or plasticized);
  3. Fasteners (nails, galvanized bolts);
  4. Concrete M200.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a chain-link fence

So, how to make a chain-link fence with your own hands?

I. Territory marking.

We begin work by driving in pegs in the corners of the site and pulling the laces between them. We measure the length of the lace - this is the length of the required chain-link mesh, you also need to take into account + 5-7% of the additional length "in reserve". Next, we mark the places of the supports, the optimal step is 2.5-3 m.

II. Pillar installation.

In the event that after the construction of the house there is a sufficient amount wooden beam or other material that you can use as future support posts for the fence; when the price of a "wood" in your region is several times cheaper than a metal profile, or you just need a temporary fence - then you should use wooden supports. The surface of the wooden beam must be cleaned of bark, and it is also desirable to treat it with antiseptics and waterproofing mastic, which will protect the material from decay and pests. The poles should be cut based on the desired height of the fence, as well as the depth of the base being dug in (the pit should be 100-150 mm larger from the depth of freezing of the soil, therefore, if you are counting on a two-meter fence, and the depth of freezing of the soil is 800 mm, then you should prepare poles with a height of 3 m). But such supports will not last long, so it is better to use metal poles!

If you decide to build a solid and durable fence - take care of buying metal poles. The installation of such supports requires concreting the base. The depth of the concreted pit should be 1/3 of the height of the fence. For example, if you planned to put up a fence 2 m high, the depth of the pit should be at least 1 m (you should also take into account the freezing depth and heaving of the soil).

III. Chain-link mesh stretch.

To wooden base fence, it is most convenient to nail the mesh with nails.

Do-it-yourself sectional chain-link fence

The main difference between this method and the usual one is the presence of a frame.

To install a sectional fence from a chain-link mesh, we need the following: materials:

  1. Metal pillars 50x50x2x3000 mm;
  2. Grid chain-link galvanized or plasticized;
  3. Bent metal corner 40x40x3 mm
  4. Metal rod and strip for welding
  5. Concrete M200

The marking and installation of the posts of the sectional fencing from the chain-link is no different from its simpler counterpart, but you will have to sweat with the welding of the frames. If you do not have good welding skills, then it is better to contact a professional.

From a grid are widely used at a protection of seasonal dachas. Anyone can install a chain-link fence with a minimum of tools at hand. Subject to the installation technology and selection quality materials, such a fence will last 15-20 years. Before starting work, you need to study the types and characteristics of the grid, as well as study the instructions in detail in order to avoid mistakes.


The mesh is made of black and galvanized wire, so the quality of the chain-link varies. Black wire mesh is the cheapest and most short-lived. It becomes covered with rust after the first fog or rain, and after 3-4 years it becomes completely unusable. You can extend the life of a non-galvanized chain-link with paint or liquid rubber, which should be applied to the grid before it is installed, and then periodically update the protective layer.


Galvanized wire mesh is not afraid of corrosion, and therefore lasts longer. It costs a little more than black, but it does not need protective treatment at all. from a galvanized chain-link look neat and attractive.


The plasticized chain-link is becoming more and more popular. This metal grid covered with a dense layer of anti-corrosion polymer, due to which it has increased stability to atmospheric influence. In addition, the polymer is colored, the mesh looks very attractive and aesthetically pleasing. And although such a chain-link is quite expensive, the demand for it is constantly growing.


In addition to quality, the chain-link mesh differs in mesh size, wire thickness and roll height. Cells can have dimensions from 10 to 65 mm, wire diameter 1-5 mm. The height of the roll is from 0.8 to 2 m, but the most popular is 1.5 m. The standard length of the mesh in a roll is 10 m, rolls of 20 m are made to order. The smaller the cells, the more expensive the cost of the mesh, because this increases material consumption .

Type of chain-link meshWire diameter, mmMesh width, mmLiving section of the mesh, %Estimated weight of 1m2 mesh, kg
1,20 1000 55,0 4,52
woven mesh with rhombic mesh1,20 1000 61,0 33,73
woven mesh with rhombic mesh1,20 1000 69,8 2,78
woven mesh with rhombic mesh1,40 1000 65,5 3,8
1,20 1000,1500 75,3 (78,9) 2,20 (1,94)
woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh1,40 1000,1500 71,5 (76,2) 3,00 (2,57)
woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh1,40 1000,1500 76,3 (77,0) 3,24 (2,74)
woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh1,60 1000,1500 73,3 (77,0) 3,24 (2,74)
woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh1,80 1000,1500 76,0 (78,9) 3,25 (2,75)
woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh1,60 1000,1500 77,5 (80,9) 2,57 (2,17)
1,4 1000-2000 83,6 1,77
woven mesh for fencing1,4 1000-2000 87,0 1,33
woven mesh for fencing1,6 1000-2000 85,7 1,74
woven mesh for fencing1,6 1000-2000 88,0 1,39
woven mesh for fencing1,8 1000-2000 87,0 1,76
woven mesh for fencing1,8 1000-2000 89 1,46
woven mesh for fencing2,0 1000-2000 87,9 1,81
woven mesh for fencing1,8 1000-2000 91 1,1
woven mesh for fencing2,0 1000-2000 90,7 1,36
woven mesh for fencing2,0 1000-2000 91,7 1,23
woven mesh for fencing2,5 1000-2000 90,7 1,70
woven mesh for fencing3,0 1000-2000 89 2,44
woven mesh for fencing2,5 1000-2000 92 1,41
woven mesh for fencing3,0 1000-2000 92 1,74
woven mesh for fencing2,5 1000-2000 94 1,10
woven mesh for fencing3,0 1000-2000 93 1,53

Netting prices

Rabitz

Types of mesh fences


The protection from a chain-link grid happens sectional and tension. The first option involves the manufacture of rectangular metal sections, inside which the mesh is fixed. For sections, metal corners, profile and round pipes of small diameter are used. Connect them by welding or bolts, if not. Such a fence looks more aesthetically pleasing and attractive, the metal frame prevents the mesh from sagging.


The tension fence is faster and easier to install; its design consists only of supporting pillars and the grid itself. The mesh is fastened with steel wire, clamps or hung on hooks welded to the posts. Pipes of different diameters, concrete columns, wooden beams are suitable for pillars.

Installation of fence posts


For both sectional and tension fences, the marking, preparation and installation of poles is carried out using the same technology, only in the first case the poles should be stronger. This is due to the additional load from the metal sections; if the supports are too thin, the fence will definitely warp.

For work you will need:

  • roulette;
  • wooden pegs;
  • a skein of thin rope;
  • building level;
  • manual drill;
  • crushed stone and sand;
  • solution;
  • profile pipes 60x40 mm;
  • Bulgarian;
  • primer.

Step 1. Installing the corner posts

The area allotted for the site is cleared of vegetation, if necessary, leveled, the location of the extreme pillars is determined. Experienced builders recommend making corner posts from pipes of a larger cross section than intermediate ones, and digging them deeper. For example, if a 40x40 mm profile pipe is taken for intermediate supports, then for corner supports it is better to take 60x40 mm and 15-20 cm longer.

Proceed to the installation of pillars:


When the solution hardens a little, you can remove the spacers and start marking under the intermediate racks.

Step 2. Markup

A rope is pulled tightly between the corner supports at a height of 15 cm from the ground - this will be the fence line. The line must be divided into equal segments corresponding to the width of the span. The optimal span for a chain-link fence is 2-2.5 m; if you increase it, the grid will definitely sag. They retreat from the extreme pillar to the desired distance and drive a peg into the ground, and so on to the opposite corner. All pegs should be in contact with the stretched rope and be at an equal distance from each other.

Video - A new way to install support poles

Step 3. Installing intermediate supports


In place of the pegs, holes are drilled for the posts and the bottom is covered with sand. To make it more convenient to control the height of the supports, another rope is pulled along the upper edge of the corner posts. Now the pipes are inserted into the pits, leveled in height and vertical, sprinkled with crushed stone and soil and tightly tamped with crowbar. Concrete is poured from above and the surface is leveled.


If it is planned to install a tension fence, and the soil on the site is quite dense, intermediate supports can simply be hammered into the ground and not concreted. To do this, holes are drilled to half the required depth, pipes are inserted there and hammered with a sledgehammer. To protect the upper edge of the columns from deformation, take a piece of pipe bigger size, a steel plate is welded on one side and put on top of the column. After driving the supports, the pits are covered with gravel and sand, spilled with water for better compaction and well rammed.



Step 4. Welding hooks


After about a week, when the concrete has hardened sufficiently, installation can continue. You can fix the grid on the poles with wire or clamps, but it is more convenient to hook it on hooks. Profile pipes with hooks already welded are on sale, but if there are welding machine It's cheaper to make them yourself. For this, pieces of a steel bar, screws, nails, even thick wire are suitable - everything that can be welded to the pipe and bent. On a pole 2 m high, it is enough to make 3 hooks: at a distance of 15 cm from the ground, 10 cm from the top of the pipe and in the middle.

Video - Do-it-yourself chain-link fence


Step 1 Attaching the Mesh

A chain-link roll is placed near the corner post, unwound a little and the cells are put on hooks. To securely fix the edge of the mesh, you need to take a piece of reinforcement with a cross section of 8 mm and a length of 1.5 m and thread it into the cells of the first row. After that, the fittings are attached to the pipe and welded. Now, when the roll is tensioned, the mesh will not sag. Having fixed the end of the mesh, the roll is transferred to the next support, carefully unwinding it.

Stepping back from the junction of the chain-link with a pipe of 10-15 cm, a steel bar is again threaded into the cells. This time you do not need to weld it, it will just help to evenly stretch the mesh. When the mesh is put on hooks, the rod is taken out, the roll is unwound for another span, the reinforcement is inserted again, and so on until the very end of the fence. To connect two canvases, use a wire from the extreme vertical row of one of the rolls.


Step 2. Fixing the canvas from sagging

Even a well-stretched canvas sags a little over time, so at the installation stage, you need to take care of additional fixation of the chain-link between the posts. You will need a wire with a cross section of 6 mm and a welding machine. The wire is threaded into the second or third row of cells horizontally along the entire fence. In places where the grid fits to the posts, the wire is welded. Then, in the same way, the lower edge of the mesh is strengthened, and at the end, the hooks are bent. Now the fence canvas is securely fixed on the supports and will not bend or sag.


Step 3. The final stage

When the fence is installed, you need to complete the finishing touches:

  • put plastic plugs on top of the pipes;
  • paint the posts
  • twist the upper antennae of the chain-link in pairs by 2 turns and bend down.

At this point, the installation of the tension fence is considered completed.


Video - Connecting the chain-link in one roll

Installation of a sectional fence

Section manufacturing

Step 2: Preparing the Racks

Rectangular plates 20x5 cm and 4-5 mm thick are cut from sheet steel. They take one plate, apply it perpendicular to the pole at a height of 20 cm from the ground and weld it. The second plate is welded at the top, stepping back from the edge of 15-20 cm. In the same way, the plates are attached to the remaining supports.

Step 3 Mounting sections


The first section is placed between the pillars, lifted and leveled. Then the sides are welded to the plates and proceed to the next span. It is very important to correctly align the sections in height so that the top rails of the frame form a single line. After installing all the sections, they clean the welding spots, prime and paint the fence frame.



Read step by step instructions how to do, in our new article.

Video - How to make a chain-link fence