How to assemble furniture at home. We learn to assemble furniture with our own hands. Preparation of drawings for the manufacture of furniture

10.03.2020

How to assemble a wardrobe or chest of drawers, kitchen or other furniture? This question is asked by every man who first encountered such a task. A man should be able to do everything and this is true, and if he does not know how to do something, then we will teach him!

How to properly assemble furniture, because there are a huge number of varieties. Sliding wardrobes, kitchens, chests of drawers are sometimes beyond the power to assemble even an experienced craftsman. Designs and complex installation often confuse. It will be easier if instructions are attached to the furniture.

How to properly assemble furniture

To assemble furniture with your own hands with high quality, you need to learn some rules. These rules are about careful work with parts, your own safety and the correct assembly sequence.

After delivery or purchase of furniture, make sure it is your furniture and whether it is your color. Check the complete set and complete unloading from the machine. If the furniture is disassembled (tables, cabinets, cabinets), then you need to determine the number of parts and boxes. After that, you can safely bring furniture into the house.

At home, you should check the complete set of furniture fittings. To properly assemble furniture, you need to free up space. If the furniture is large and massive, then the place of assembly should be in the room in which this furniture will be located.

Floor coverings before assembling furniture, cover with a blanket or other flooring so as not to damage the floor. You should remember about the safety precautions for assembling furniture, so that later you do not have to correct defects. And most importantly, prepare the tools and materials with which you will assemble.

Furniture assembly tools are divided into two types:

assembly of a simple structure;
assembly of complex furniture.

The assembly of a simple structure is carried out using:

roulettes;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
drills for furniture assembly;
hammer;
wrenches.

To assemble and install furniture of a more complex design or unusual furniture of complex shape, additional tools are needed:

jigsaw;
a device for determining electrical wires;
perforator for furniture assembly:
crowns of different diameters;
furniture stapler;
various types of drills;
level.

If you are not sure that you can assemble furniture or it requires a serious installation process, it is better to contact specialists.

How to assemble a chest of drawers

A chest of drawers is an indispensable piece of furniture in the interior. Children's room or bedroom cannot be complete without it. A variety of materials and types of furniture allows you to save the family budget. And you can also design a chest of drawers with your own hands, which will meet all your preferences.

In ancient times, a chest was used instead of a chest of drawers, but it was not very convenient. This was the reason for the appearance of such furniture as a chest of drawers. Today, a chest of drawers is considered universal and quite roomy furniture. It is used to store things, shoes, perfumes and cosmetics and other things.

How to develop a project and a drawing for assembling a chest of drawers with your own hands

Start developing a chest of drawers by choosing a place where it will stand. Measure the space, taking into account the placement of sockets and baseboards. so as not to interfere with their full functioning. Then start sizing the chest of drawers. It is recommended to adhere to 800 mm in height and up to 1200 mm in width. These dimensions are considered optimal in assembling a chest of drawers with your own hands. When creating a chest of drawers with your own hands, carefully consider the choice of materials. Consider the following points:

natural wood has an impressive weight;
Chipboard or MDF is much lighter and cheaper.

It is better to assemble unusual furniture using a drawing. In our modern world it's very simple. If you are able to make the drawing yourself, then stock up on a ruler and a pencil. And if you want to simplify the task, then use the electronic program (Compass 3D or AutoCAD). An electronic drawing for assembling a chest of drawers simplifies the work and determines the size of each element of the chest of drawers.

The next step in assembling a chest of drawers with your own hands will be to determine the size of the parts, taking into account the gaps. Remember that the edge adds thickness. To prepare the rest of the parts, ask any wood chip company for help. If you have "golden hands", then use the disk and saw.

Mounting the case for assembling the chest of drawers

For installation we need:

nails with a wide hat;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
screws for assembly.

We start by assembling the chest of drawers, connecting the back wall with nails. If it is not possible to make a wall of solid material or it is not possible, then replace it with two pieces. You can connect them together with polymeric docking parts. To fix the parts, you need to use a furniture self-tapping screw by drilling a hole with a diameter of 4 mm in the edge of one fragment.
After that, we take the part of the next part and make a hole in it about 7 mm. screws, with front side close the chest of drawers with plastic lining. Let's start attaching the top cover. We will do this with the help of steel corners, attaching them with self-tapping screws. The assembly of the chest of drawers is over!

How to assemble a closet

Making a wardrobe with your own hands is a popular activity. It gained its popularity because the cabinet has no swing doors, it is possible to carry out hidden installation and the cabinet itself is very compact. When assembling a wardrobe, you will have to learn design, carpentry and engineering skills.

Design skill lies in the position of the cabinet shelves and the design of the entire cabinet. Having come up with the desired design in your head, transfer it to a piece of paper.

Calculation and cutting of material for assembling a wardrobe

Measure the width and height of the cabinet to calculate the dimensions of the remaining parts (partitions, shelves). Having calculated all the dimensions, draw out each cabinet detail. It is recommended to make shelves and partitions when assembling the cabinet less than the overall size of the cabinet by 2 sheets of chipboard or other material used. Standard chipboard is taken with a thickness of 16 mm.

Given 16 mm thickness, we put down the size of each part. This work is very painstaking. Therefore, check several times to get the cabinet of the correct design.

Now let's move on to trimming (front ends of chipboard). We mark on each figure the details of the cabinet edges, which we will paste over with special tape. This procedure is very expensive, so you need to determine the edges visible from the front side when assembling the cabinet. Having done this work, you can calmly breathe and take all the drawings and diagrams to a specialized place where you will be cut.

The kitchen and wardrobe are almost the easiest types of furniture for beginners to assemble (not counting only bedside tables and shelves). In general, furniture for the living room and bedroom usually requires a more serious approach, using non-standard materials, glass. This article will help beginners understand how to make furniture on their own.

Wood in its pure form is almost never used in cabinet furniture; the array is considered an expensive elite material.

Now the tree is being replaced with a cheaper material - laminated chipboard (abbreviated chipboard). Most often, these plates have a thickness of 16 mm, on sale you can also find laminated chipboard with a thickness of 10 and 22 mm. 10 mm sheets are usually used to fill the doors of wardrobes, and 22 mm - for bookcases and shelves where high bending strength is required. Also, sometimes with the help of elements from chipboard 22 mm they decorate the structure.

Almost all furniture parts are made of 16 mm chipboard (except for doors and facades).

Laminated chipboard

The cutting of chipboard is carried out on special machines along the guides. Of course, you can saw it off at home with a jigsaw, but then there will be chips and wavy bumps on the edges. It is almost impossible to saw off a chipboard exactly with a jigsaw at home.

edges

The most vulnerable spot of chipboard is its cut. It is easiest for moisture to penetrate through it, therefore, with poor protection, the ends may soon swell. Therefore, the ends are closed with the help of edges, there are several types of them.

- Melamine edge - the cheapest, but poor quality. You can stick it at home with an iron.

- PVC edge 0.4 and 2 mm – best option. It can be glued only on a special machine, so they make it immediately when ordering a cut. To save money, 0.4 mm is glued to invisible ends, and 2 mm to external ones, which will experience constant loads and friction.

PVC edge 2 mm

- ABS edging - similar to PVC, only made of environmentally friendly material.
- Mortise T-profile - inserted into a groove previously made by a cutter. Rarely used.

- Overhead U-profile - can be easily glued at home on liquid nails. The main disadvantage is that the edges will protrude by several millimeters, so dirt gets clogged under it. On the other hand, this drawback allows you to hide a poor-quality cut.

facades

Kitchen facades and furniture doors are usually made of more elegant material. But if you are making a drawer door inside a closet that no one will see, you can also use a regular 16 mm chipboard with a 2 mm PVC edge for it. But cabinets in the kitchen should look more presentable.

The facade is a separate furniture element. It is usually made to order. If the dimensions of the facades are non-standard, their production may take several months.

You can easily navigate by standard sizes: usually the facades are made 2 mm smaller than the cabinet itself on each side. Therefore, for a standard 600 mm cabinet, a 596 mm front is used.

The height of the kitchen cabinet also depends on the facade and ranges from 715 to 725 mm for floor cabinets (without legs) and low wall cabinets, and 915-925 mm for high cabinets. wall cabinets.

Types of facades

Since the facades perform mainly a decorative function, the choice is huge, they differ in appearance and material.

- Facades made of laminated MDF. This is a pressed material, more moisture resistant and dense, compared to chipboard. Most often, the surface is laminated "under the tree." But no matter how strong the film is, over time at the edges it can move away and crack. The main advantage of this material is its low price and fast production.

Facades from MDF

- In addition to standard blank facades, there are also options with figured cutouts for stained glass. Glass is attached to the lining on the reverse side.
- Softforming - such facades are similar to ordinary MDF, but have a characteristic two-color layout with a relief on both sides. They can only be used in dry rooms, bedrooms or living rooms.

- Postforming - even better and more durable products. Thin plastic is wrapped around the edges by 90° or 180°, which eliminates unnecessary seams at the corners. Chipboard or MDF boards are used as the basis. Usually, postforming is done in a strict form, without unnecessary pretentious decorative elements.

- Plastic facades are of high quality, but expensive. They consist of a base (chipboard / MDF), lined on both sides with thick plastic. They always have a strict design and a flat surface, glossy or matte. The edges of the slab are sometimes protected with ABS edging or aluminum profiles. Recently, super-gloss acrylic plastic has become especially popular.

Plastic facades in aluminum profile

- Facades made of wood and veneer are suitable for lovers of natural materials, but they are expensive. In addition, there are long disputes about environmental friendliness: it is believed that there are so many varnishes and impregnations here that only one name remains from the tree.

- Enamel painted facades. They have a significant drawback - the surface is vulnerable to scratches and deformations, has a low chemical resistance. They used to be popular for their rich color, but with the advent of glossy acrylic plastic, everything has changed.

Aluminum facades with glass - suitable for a high-tech kitchen. They look modern, but are difficult to manufacture and install. For their fastening, non-standard fittings are used.

Back walls and drawer bottoms

The back wall and bottom of the drawers are most often made of HDPE. The smooth side of the sheet should look inside the cabinet / drawer. The thickness of the sheets is 3-5 mm, the color is selected according to the chipboard.

Some people prefer to attach HDF to a furniture stapler, but this cannot be done. Over time, the staples loosen and the structure can warp. It’s not worth talking about the bottom of the boxes - the stapler is clearly not suitable for fastening.

Furniture HDPE

Sometimes it is inserted into the groove prepared by the cutter, but all dimensions must match to the millimeter.

Most often, HDPE is attached to nails or self-tapping screws. It is better to use self-tapping screws with a press washer, but before screwing them in, you need to drill a hole, otherwise the product may crack.

In rare cases, for example, to create a "stiffening rib" in a tall cabinet or in drawers with high loads, fiberboard is replaced with chipboard. These materials can also be combined.

Countertops

A countertop is a horizontal work surface on which you can cook, eat, read, write, etc.

Most office and desks, as well as for cheap dining rooms, the countertop is made of the same chipboard as the main parts. The thickness is 16 or 22 mm, it is obligatory to frame the PVC with a 2 mm edge.

For the kitchen, special countertops are used. They are a sheet of chipboard with a thickness of 28-38 mm, which is covered with durable plastic on top using postforming technology. Moisture resistant countertops green color on the cut, and ordinary chipboard is gray. correct kitchen countertop must have a drip collector, which will prevent the ingress of flowing liquid onto the facades and into the drawers.

The weak point of such countertops is the saw cut edge. Usually they are covered with a simple melamine edge, so they become unusable in the first year of operation. To avoid this, it is recommended to protect the edges with special aluminum profiles (end plate), and to protect against moisture, pre-lubricate the saw cut with silicone sealant.

There are also other types of profile: corner and connecting strip, which are needed to join several cabinets with different countertops.

Corner, connecting and end strip for worktop

Another element is a decorative corner that closes the gap between the wall and the countertop.

Sometimes used to finish an apron wall panel. Unlike tiles or mosaics, they are more practical due to the absence of seams and inexpensive compared to glass aprons.

The fastening of the tabletop to the cabinets is done from below with short self-tapping screws to the horizontal struts so as not to spoil the smooth front surface.

Countertops made of natural or artificial stone are of higher quality and more durable than others. A natural stone heavy and demanding special care due to high porosity. And artificial stone does not have such shortcomings, it can be given any size and shape. The main disadvantage of stone countertops is the high price; for a small kitchen, they cost from 40 thousand rubles. and more.

An alternative option is a tile or porcelain stoneware countertop. You can make it yourself, but the tiles cannot be mounted on ordinary plywood or chipboard. Previously, the base must be sheathed with cement-fiber sheets.

Location of parts

A detail is any element of cabinet furniture: covers, countertops, walls, facades, shelves. Each item can be either nested or invoiced. Right choice the type of location is very important.

Consider examples of two kitchen cabinets: one of them will stand on legs, and the second will be suspended.

Floor cabinet:

As you can see in the photo, the operating voltage in the floor cabinet is directed downwards from the cover and in the first version is naturally transmitted through the parts to the legs of the cabinet.

In the second, incorrect version, the load is transmitted through the confirm (furniture screw), and because of this, it will be pulled out of the part for a break.

Wall cabinet:

In the second example, the opposite is true: the load will go to the bottom shelf, and the attachment point will be on top.

If we apply here the same fastening scheme as in the floor cabinet (option 1), all 4 bolts will be constantly under load to pull out of the wood. Therefore, it is better if the confirmers experience a fracture load (see the “correct” diagram).

Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware (metal products) that are used to connect parts. Most often, the connections are made at right angles.

- Wooden dowels - inserted in advance drilled holes in both details. They are used for pre-fixing and strengthening the load "on the cut", then the parts are fixed in a more reliable way.

- Furniture corners are a popular but outdated type of furniture fastening. Among the minuses: appearance, loosening over time and bulkiness.

furniture corner

The main disadvantage of this type of fastening is that the caps screwed flush remain in sight. To hide them, use plastic plugs in the color of chipboard.

furniture fittings

- Handles - everything is clear here. Usually fastened with screws.
- Legs - convenient in rooms where wet cleaning of the floor is often done, for example, in the kitchen. From daily contact with water, any wood, and especially chipboard, will quickly deteriorate. In addition, due to the legs, furniture can be leveled on uneven surfaces.
- A silicone damper is a cheap but very useful part that can reduce the noise of impacts from cabinet doors. Sticks on the top and bottom of the door or cabinet end to soften the impact.

- Furniture hinges. Round cutouts for them (additives) in the facades can be made in any furniture shop if the manufacturer has not made them in advance. The hinges differ in the degree of opening of the doors. Standard hinges have an opening angle of 180° and a closed angle of 90°.
  The hinges have a special mechanism that allows you to adjust the doors in height and landing depth. For glass doors separate hinges are sold, glass can be clamped into them without drilling a hole.

Furniture hinges

From inexpensive manufacturers of accessories, we can recommend the Chinese Boyard, from serious world manufacturers - the Austrian Blum.

Drawers and guides

There are many ways to make furniture boxes. The easiest of them is to assemble the perimeter from chipboard. If you want to beautiful facade, it is screwed overlay on the main frame from the inside (like the countertop). Also, the facade can be mounted on eccentrics as the fourth wall of the box.

But the main thing is not to assemble the drawer, but to fix it correctly.

Guides for boxes are divided into roller or ball.

- Roller guides are usually attached to the bottom of the box. He will ride on them on two rollers. A pair of such guides costs about 150 rubles, but it is highly not recommended to use them. The main disadvantage is that they do not allow the drawer to be pulled out completely, a heavy drawer in the more than half open position can simply fall.
- Ball guides, or as they are also called, “full extension telescopic guides” are capable of exactly doubling the length. They have many balls inside, like in bearings, so they provide a smooth ride.

Roller and ball guides for drawers

In addition, Blum has metaboxes and tandemboxes. These are ready-made side walls of boxes with installed guides. It remains only to install the facade, back wall and bottom.

Doors for wardrobes

The sliding wardrobe can be separate (with side and rear walls), or built into a niche or corner (with one side wall). The internal filling can be anything: ordinary shelves and mezzanines, drawers and baskets, clothes rails, special hangers for trousers, ties, etc.

The main element of the wardrobe - sliding doors. You can’t save on them, you need to buy high-quality fittings, otherwise you will be tormented later with falling and jamming doors. In almost any city you can find domestic sliding systems Aristo is not a problem.

The sliding wardrobe usually has 2-3 doors. They consist of a profiled frame, inside which are inserted decorative elements: mirrors and glass, chipboard, rattan, bamboo sheets, faux leather(based). Each door can be assembled from a combination of several of these materials, which are separated aluminum profile. In width, it is not recommended to make doors more than 1 m.

Standard profiles are designed for a web thickness of 10 mm. But how to insert a 4 mm thick mirror into it? To do this, a silicone sealant is put on the edge of the mirror. So that in the event of a blow, broken glass does not hurt anyone, you need to order a mirror with a film glued to the wrong side.

The movement of the doors goes along the guides, they are installed from above and below. The lower doors provide forward and backward movement, and the upper ones fix the door relative to the depth of the cabinet.

The bottom rollers are usually made of plastic, have a shock-absorbing spring and a height adjustment screw. The top rollers have a rubberized surface.
With the right approach homemade furniture It's cheaper and better quality than what's available in stores. But besides this, it will be exclusive, exactly suited to the needs of the owners and the features of the room.

In order to save money and time searching for the right model, users with building or carpentry skills can make furniture with their own hands.

What should be taken care of before making furniture?

When assembling furniture with your own hands, you need to think in advance about the appearance of the object and decide in which part of the apartment it will be placed. These data will help determine the most suitable materials and accessories. Drawings are another important part of the process. After creating sketches with parameters and purchasing tools and building materials, you can proceed to direct installation. It is better to strictly adhere to the original idea and be attentive to all calculations, otherwise hand-made furniture may turn out to be sloppy.

The most important thing in the manufacture of furniture is a drawing.

Step 1 - Furniture Assembly Tools

For work, you will not need a special room and expensive equipment, but before assembling furniture with your own hands, you still need to stock up on tools that can be useful during work. Recommended minimum for beginners:

electric screwdriver;
drill for loops with a diameter of 2.6 cm;
nozzle or key, as well as a special drill for confirmations;
drills with diameters of 4.5, 7.5 and 10 mm;
awl, tape measure, ruler, pencil;
rubber or wooden mallet;
sandpaper (fine-grained).

For those who have extensive experience in making furniture with their own hands, it would be useful to purchase an electric drill, an electric jigsaw, a building hair dryer and an iron, a professional router, a stationery knife, a joint knife and a Forstner drill with a diameter of 15 mm for drilling holes for minifixes.

Step 2 - selection of materials for future furniture design

Today the market offers the widest range, which includes various price categories. Natural solid wood is now considered an expensive elite material, they have given way to modern slabs, consisting of only partly wood. There are several most requested options for .

Furniture from laminated chipboard

Laminated chipboard boards have taken a leading position as the main material for the manufacture of do-it-yourself cabinet furniture. They are a relatively cheap composite material resulting from the hot pressing of wood shavings. The standard thickness of such plates is 16 mm, but you can find 1 and 22 mm. From thicker plates, decorative elements and the main details of cabinets and bookshelves where high flexural strength is required.

Chipboard processing is usually carried out on special machines. You can resort to a jigsaw and try to cut them at home, yourself, but this will not work out smoothly: bumps and chips will be visible on the details. Such defects will subsequently be very noticeable, and they will have to be masked. For this reason, it is better to entrust the manufacture of parts to professionals.

Fiberboard furniture

Fibreboard is a lower quality and aesthetically pleasing material compared to chipboard. AT furniture production it is used for finishing the back walls and as the bottom of drawers. The thickness of these sheets varies between 3-5 mm. The plate has two surfaces: smooth and rough. One of the rules for making furniture with your own hands: the smooth side of the sheet looks inside the drawer / cabinet. The color should be as close as possible to the shade of the main furniture material (chipboard).

It is not recommended to attach fiberboard sheets to a furniture stapler, since such a design will turn out to be unstable and loosen over time. The bottom of furniture drawers can be mounted in a groove prepared by a cutter, if all dimensions match up to a millimeter. The most popular fastening method is self-tapping screws or nails.

MDF furniture

A plate consisting of finely dispersed chips pressed under high pressure and temperature. A malleable material, it is well processed by a router, it is often used as a furniture facade (external part). Basic Features:

high density;
good moisture resistance;
flexibility;
ability to withstand temperature extremes;
resistance to microbial attack.

The thickness of MDF boards varies from 3 to 38 mm.

Assembling natural wood furniture is not the most practical idea, since solid wood is many times more expensive than the above price categories. It is better to entrust the work with this material to specialists.

furniture fittings

Accessories are small, but important elements, without which the furniture will not be able to perform its functions. You should not save on this part, since the service life and the overall level of performance of the future self-assembled structure depend on the quality of the purchased fittings.

Furniture handles are attached with screws. Guides (roller and telescopic, or ball) play an important role in the assembly of drawers, because they give them the correct direction of movement.

To soften the impact when closing and reduce the noise level, silicone dampers are installed on the inner sides of the furniture doors (or end face). Legs are an optional detail, but in some cases can greatly extend the life of the furniture and adjust its optimal position on an uneven floor.

The hinges affect the opening degree of the drawer doors. The standard is 180° for opening and 90° for closing. If the manufacturer has not made additives (cutouts for hinges), then they can be added in any furniture workshop. For glass doors, you need to purchase special hinges that can hold it without drilling holes.

Fasteners for furniture

Fasteners and their types require special attention. These are metal products, which ultimately are of decisive importance for furniture, since it is they that ensure its strength, geometric correctness and stability.

Dowels made of wood

Are applied to preliminary and intermediate fixing and strengthening of loading "on a cut". The dowels are inserted into the drilled holes in both fastened pieces of furniture. Later, the parts are attached in a more reliable way.

iron corners

A slightly outdated mounting system that fully justifies its cheapness with an unattractive appearance, bulkiness and loosening after some time.

Confirmat, or furniture screw

A modern fastener that has replaced ordinary self-tapping screws due to large threads: because of this, the screws hold tighter in the chipboard. The main disadvantages of this type is the need to use a special drill with different diameters for the thread, head and neck of the euro screw, as well as heads that remain visible. The master will have to select plastic plugs to match the color of the furniture body.

One of the most relevant methods of fastening today. The main advantage of eccentric couplers is that they leave drilling marks only on the inside of the product. For this mount, you will need the aforementioned Forstner drill. The method is time consuming and is great for sliding furniture doors. In other cases, it is worth stopping at simpler and less expensive options.

Selection of edges and furniture fronts

These elements perform an aesthetic function, so you need to choose them wisely. It is not difficult to make beautiful cabinet furniture that will look expensive if you carefully select decorative parts.

Edge

The security of the cuts of the body plates, and, consequently, the strength of the furniture, depends on the correct choice of this part. If you do not take care of high-quality insulation, moisture can easily penetrate into the furniture structure and destroy them from the inside.

There are several options, one of the best for making furniture with your own hands is a PVC edge. This finish does not require special skills or professional equipment. Standard sizes: 0.4 and 2 mm. In order to save money, a thin edge is glued to the ends that are inaccessible to the eyes, and 2 mm to the outer ones, which will be subjected to heavy loads and friction.

Other advantages of this type of furniture finishing:

Melamine edging: A cheap but impractical option. Glued with a regular iron.
ABS - similar to PVC, but made from an environmentally friendly material.
The laid on P-profile is glued to liquid nails. Impractical due to the accumulation of dirt at the junction, but helps to hide the defects of a bad cut.
Mortise T-profile - rarely used, inserted into the groove made by the cutter.

Front part of furniture

Kitchen facades and drawer doors are the “face” of furniture, so they should look much more presentable than other details that are not so conspicuous. To make this element with your own hands means to save time, since usually such things are made to order, and the wait can take several months.

In terms of technical details, the façade part is standardly made 2 mm smaller on each side of the main body. So, for furniture with a width of 600 mm, a facade with a width of 596 mm is suitable. The raw material of the decorative part is different from that of the main body.

Among the cheapest facades are laminated MDF panels with a short service life. Mostly found finish "under the tree." Softforming, which is gaining popularity, is similar to MDF, but differs in two-color layout and relief on both sides of the panel. Such furniture is suitable only for dry rooms (bedroom, living room). You can often see non-standard facades with curly stained glass cutouts. Glass is usually fixed to the lining on the inside of the door.

This is a high-quality, durable decoration. Differs in the severity of forms, performed without aesthetic excesses. MDF or chipboard plates are taken as the basis, which are covered with thin seamless plastic. A plastic facade is another expensive, but extremely practical option.

Characteristics:

smooth surface (glossy, matte);
concise design;
ABS edging or aluminum profile.

At the peak of popularity are now super glossy acrylic panels for making furniture with your own hands.

wood and veneer

Expensive, but natural materials. There is an opinion that from an environmental point of view, the option loses, since it contains a lot of varnish and impregnations. The painted facade “under the enamel” is becoming less and less common. The saturated color, which was so appreciated before, also appeared in competitors, for example, in acrylic. A significant disadvantage of such furniture is that it is unstable to deformation and scratches.

Aluminum-glass facades

The best method when making furniture with your own hands in high-tech style.

Preparation of drawings for the manufacture of furniture

Assembly drawings are a personal guide during the workflow. If you pay due attention to this part at the preparatory stage, then the master will not have to frantically make calculations and be afraid to attach something in the wrong place. You can make the task of assembling easier by sketching everything on a simple sheet of paper by hand or using.

It should be remembered that the drawing must be intelligible and readable, at least for the person who will assemble the furniture.

Calculation and detailing

It is impossible to make cabinet furniture with your own hands without taking into account the consumption of materials. This stage requires the preparation detailed list of what material each part will be made of, indicating its parameters. The sheet is given to the nearest available workshop, where all elements will be sawn and primary processed (edge).

The list should include consumables for the body, fittings, fasteners. So you can easily calculate the final cost of furniture, taking into account the services of the workshop. The price of a thing made by one's own hands at home is 30–35% less than the retail price in stores.

Furniture assembly technology

Any furniture should begin to be constructed with your own hands from the main frame, that is, from the largest details, gradually adding small ones. Bookcase collection example:

After preparatory phase the side, upper and lower walls of the frame are connected and the diagonal is aligned.
Then, with the help of self-tapping screws, the back of the fiberboard is attached.
The third stage is the fastening of the shelves. Confirmates guarantee a stronger connection.
The places of the side walls spoiled by hardware from the outside can be decorated with plugs that match in color.
Now it's time for more internal details, for example, the shelves may have drawers (additional partitions).
The decorative parts (linings, facade, etc.) are mounted last.

According to the same scheme, beds, kitchen cabinets, wardrobes and other home furniture. When using an injury-prone electrical equipment generally accepted security measures are followed.

In order to make furniture yourself, you need to have a desire, a little care, time and basic knowledge in the field of construction. If everything is done correctly, the result will be an exclusive and functional piece of decor that will last for many years and will fit perfectly into the interior of the apartment.

The article tells about the technology of assembling cabinet furniture. It will also cover the main types of fastening equipment that is commonly used in this case. Let's talk about the tool that we will definitely need.

The main types of furniture fasteners.

1) Universal screw with countersunk head. Its size is 3.5x16. Nothing particularly remarkable stands out. Most often, it is not supplied with furniture. Purchased separately. They are attached to the rear furniture walls, handles, hinges, sliding guides for shelves, etc. The screw is screwed in with a screwdriver. (photo1-2)

2) Furniture screw - simple and convenient connection. Presented as a screw and nut. The screw has a semi-circular square head that does not protrude and does not scroll during the tightening and tightening of the nut.

3) Furniture corner. Easily fastens perpendicular structures. Depending on the purpose, it can be metal and plastic. Also different are his dimensions. (photo 3-5)

4) Spike one-piece connection. wooden detail cylindrical shape smeared with glue and inserted into a pre-drilled groove. After that, the protruding part is also smeared with glue, after which it is inserted into the groove of another element. (photo6)

5) Confirmat is the main furniture fastener. It is screwed into both elements, thereby "pulling" them together. Confirmates usually have a size of 6.4x50 mm. Before screwing this fastener, you will need to drill a hole with a diameter of 5mm. The confirmation is screwed in with a hexagon.

6) Eccentrics - very interesting view fasteners. Lets do the hidden gusset two elements located at an angle of 90 degrees to each other. Consists of two parts. The first part is made in the form of a screw, the thread of which is screwed into the edge of one of the fastened elements. The special head of this screw is inserted into a 5mm hole located at the end of the second furniture element to be fastened.

The inserted head of the screw is accessed through a 15mm diameter hole on the side. A special nut is inserted into this hole, which, screwing onto the head of the inserted screw, firmly tightens the walls of the furniture. The nut is clamped with a hexagon. Despite the fact that the mount remained hidden on the inside, it is finally hidden under the plastic nozzles. (photo 7-10)

Assembling cabinet furniture with your own hands: "Where to start, how to continue?"

First of all, of course, you should unpack the purchased furniture. Boxes should be cut with great care. The main thing is not to hurt the packed pieces of furniture. This is especially true for facial details.

For convenience, lay out the assembled elements of cabinet furniture on the floor. Pour the accessories that come with the kit into one box so that each time you do not waste your time looking for the right part. (photo11)

Be sure to look for instructions. She must be together with a set of furniture in a box. After reading the instructions, bring all essential tool. Usually, when assembling cabinet furniture, the following set of tools and accessories is required: a screwdriver, a screwdriver, a hexagon, a hammer, pliers, a corner, a small level, a fixing corner (photo 12-19). In some cases, a drill with a drill of different diameters may also be required. However, in good quality prefabricated furniture, as a rule, all the necessary holes and cutouts are pre-made!

Sometimes there are errors in the instructions. It’s hard to say what this is connected with, the main thing is to include logic, and not blindly follow the instructions. It also often happens that cheap fittings are included in a set of cabinet furniture in order to save money. When in doubt, purchase furniture store other. Unreliable fasteners can completely remove furniture from their operation.

Generally cabinet furniture assembly won't seem complicated to you. The main thing is accuracy. Do not tighten the fastener with such force that everything cracks, but do not leave it under tightened either. All pieces of furniture must be level. The evenness of the corners is checked with the corner tool. Always check the slopes of the surface with a level. When tightening fasteners with a screwdriver, make sure that its bit does not slip off and does not spoil the surface of the furniture.

In some cases, glossy and other decorative parts are covered with a protective film (photos 20-21). Do not remove it unnecessarily. During the assembly process, this should be done only when the film interferes with attaching something. It will be better if the film remains on the furniture until the start of its operation. It is important to know that some glossy panels modern furniture have special properties: they are ways to repel dust. However, after removing the film, such panels cannot be cleaned for about three weeks.

Assembling cabinet furniture with your own hands is a great idea, as you will save your money from unnecessary waste!

Sometimes assembling furniture with your own hands can be a real challenge. Depending on the design, the same cabinet or chest of drawers can test your nerves for strength. Usually, various problems arise during the first assembly, so we'll talk about the intricacies and features of the process.

Fundamental rules

First of all, in order to assemble any piece of furniture well, it must be of high quality. Therefore, when accepting delivery, first of all, check the completeness of your order. Most often, a single piece of furniture, or a whole set, should be accompanied by a parts list, which will be the first part of your instructions for correct assembly furniture.

Before that, you should have accurately measured the place that the furniture you bought will occupy, so that in the end it does not turn out that the conditional cabinet simply does not fit in the right place.

Moreover, it must be taken into account that the same cabinet must also be assembled indoors, and the latter must be spacious enough to comfortably assemble with subsequent movements. Carpets should be removed, and the floor itself should be covered with something like a bedspread to protect the surface from damage.

Tool

Equally important is the tool that is needed to assemble furniture - sometimes a simple screwdriver may be enough for you, in another case you may need a whole arsenal, it depends more on the size of the furniture and the complexity of the design.

Initial difficulty level

For simple pieces of furniture, you will need a simple tape measure, a hammer, a few screwdrivers (can be replaced with a screwdriver), a drill (situational), a hammer, and a few wrenches. All this is enough to assemble the initial levels of complexity.

Complex structures

This category includes large pieces of furniture with a large number of parts, including moving ones, or furniture of complex shape. Photos of assembling furniture with your own hands, of this type, can often be found in magazines and catalogs.

For her, in addition to the above items, you may need: a level, a puncher with various drills, a furniture stapler, and the like.

Dresser

Let's consider the do-it-yourself furniture assembly scheme using the example of an ordinary chest of drawers. The item is very useful, and in any living room - it is difficult to imagine a bedroom or a nursery without it.

Previously, its role was performed by simple chests. The disadvantage of such a piece of furniture was very simple design- at its core, it was a box that was closed with a lid, which is very inconvenient for storage a large number clothes, despite the apparent spaciousness.

Its modern counterpart, chest of drawers, is well suited not only for outerwear, but also for shoes, cosmetics and other things that the owner may need.

Blueprints

If speak about step by step assembly do-it-yourself furniture, it is always worth starting with drawings. First you need to decide on the place where the chest of drawers will stand - depending on this, it can be made higher or wider.

As for the assembly process itself, here the drawings, namely the graphical and textual description, will help you assemble the furniture not only correctly, but also quickly - usually they are simple instruction for assembly, which good stores complete with almost any piece of furniture.

For example, IKEA completes all its designs with all the necessary documentation, consumables in the form of screws, bolts and the like.

If there are fasteners in the kit that require a special tool (hexagon) - it is also put in the package.

back side

But not everyone buys furniture from IKEA and Hoff, and it often turns out that the furniture you bought does not have any fasteners in its kit, and sometimes even drawings. In this case, you will need a photo, looking at which you bought it all, nails, screws, a screwdriver, bolts of different sizes and a lot of patience.

Note!

Assembly

If you give advice on assembling furniture to a beginner, it is best to start it from the bottom or rear wall. They are usually deaf and solid, so the rest of the parts are attached to them.

Most often, the chest of drawers has drawers, the guides of which will be more convenient to install until the walls are fixed and do not hinder movement. Next, you need to assemble the boxes themselves and install the fittings.

If you need to assemble something like a large wardrobe, then here you need to start by installing the frame - the bottom, the back wall, if any, the side walls and the top. Only then can the installation of internal parts begin.

In the case of small cabinets and racks, it will be more convenient to assemble in free space on the floor or a large table, and then simply move it to the right place.

Note!

It is worth assembling carefully, but without fear - there is no need to rush, usually the manufacturer thinks through the assembly process for you, the main thing is to understand how he presents it.

DIY furniture assembly photo

Note!