Making a sliding table. DIY sliding table - original projects, simple ideas and instructions for creating a table (115 photos). Preparing the details of the countertop

03.05.2020

Hospitality and room at 12 square meters as badly combined as a spectacular woman and a stingy man. However, miracles happen: Isabella marries the Wandering Jew, and the wife's relatives manage to step over each other for three weeks, sleeping ten of them on your carpet. But you can’t organize a good feast on the carpet, no matter how much you want to feed these freeloaders from a dog bowl - you have to make a sliding table with your own hands.

The basic model of the sliding table, from which we will build

Extendable table design

Now quite complex mechanisms for sliding tables are being sold, where it is enough to twist one handle in order to see the miracle of reincarnation. But these are all bourgeois manners, designed not for a home master, but for a child with a fat wallet. We'll take the old, time-tested design shown in the first photo and modernize it a bit.

What was the main inconvenience of the Soviet sliding table? There was no opening mechanism at all, as in chests of drawers of that time. Proletarians and scientists equally performed physical exercises, trying to push a box filled with linen or spread out a table. By rubbing wood against wood, you can make fire, but in this case, the goal is slightly different.

By adding just one element, we will understand how to make a sliding table easy to use. Take a look at the next picture and you will see this little trick.

Slightly modernized extension table model

Materials and fasteners

We will make the table in a classic configuration, so the materials will have to be combined. We use:

For legs - a bar with a section of 40x40 millimeters. The height of the dining table is approximately 730mm, so we need four 710mm long legs.
For the base of the table - plywood, 20 mm thick.
For the tabletop and frame - laminated chipboard 18 mm thick.

Legs and plywood parts will have to be processed and tinted to match the color of the tabletop. At least approximately.

The main innovation of the table is the full roll-out guides, which are usually used for drawers. We will need two sets of 300 mm each. The usual fasteners will be hidden, so we can do without frills:

Self-tapping screws 4x50 mm for wood.
Self-tapping screws 4x16 mm.
Dowels 8x40 mm.
Furniture corners, metal, 30x30 mm, for self-tapping screws.
Adhesive-backed edge, in chipboard color, melamine.

Sawing parts from plywood and laminated chipboard needs to be clean, accurate and geometrically verified, so we will order it to someone who has a cutting machine for laminated chipboard of the Robland type or a class higher. General dimensions of the table (without height): folded 900x700 mm, unfolded - 1300x700 mm. On such an area, you can feed ten people or 25 students - if you put a table in the hostel.

Extendable table detail

We have already announced the height of the legs, proceed to other details.

We indicate the dimensions of parts from chipboard:

450x700 mm - 2 pcs. Tabletop parts.
400x700 mm - removable part of the tabletop.
420x120 mm - 4 pcs. Sidewalls of boxes under a table-top.
600x120 mm - 2 pcs. End parts of boxes under a table-top.

Dimensions of plywood parts:

498x120 mm - 4 pcs. The end parts of the frame and slats, on which the removable fragment of the tabletop will lie in the “folded table” position.
830x120 mm - 2 pcs. Frame sides.

The quality of processing of parts made of plywood and wooden legs is completely on your conscience. The table is roomy and special moisture protection is not needed here, but splinters will not please anyone either. Therefore, we recommend double sanding - before and after the first varnishing. We remove the wood fibers that have risen under the first varnish with fine-grained sandpaper and smear the second layer.

Assembling the frame with legs

End parts and strips are attached between the sidewalls of the frame. End - it is clear that flush with the edges of the sidewalls. We fasten the planks almost in the center of the resulting frame, flush with the bottom edge, at a distance of 100-120 mm from each other. The removable fragment of the tabletop on the platform formed by them will hold normally, but in order to pull it out, you will have to tilt one side, so we make the distance between the planks minimal.

We attach the legs to the frame from the inside and fasten through the frame from the outside with 4x50 mm self-tapping screws. Additionally, we put the corners on the frame-leg plane. Be sure to check the stability of the table at this stage and, if necessary, adjust the length of the legs.

Preparing the details of the countertop

First of all, we glue the fragments of the tabletop and the details of the boxes with an edge - everything that we made from chipboard.

To do this, we apply the edge to the ends of the parts with the adhesive side down and press it with an iron heated to 3/4 of the maximum. We iron the edge that has not had time to cool down with a dry cloth - so that the edges “grab” properly. The protruding edges of the edges can be cut off with a knife, trying not to damage the laminate, and the roughness should be carefully processed with sandpaper.

On the inner ends of the sliding tabletops and on both sides of the inner fragment, we drill matching holes for dowels with a diameter of 8 mm and a depth of 25-30 mm. Let's designate the countertops as left, right and middle - for simplicity. We glue the dowels into the left tabletop and into the middle one - with right side. Thus, the tabletops are joined together both with and without the middle part.

Extendable table assembly

We start with the assembly of U-shaped boxes from chipboard. The end parts are again between the sidewalls. Decorative plugs are sold in any color, so it's easy to disguise the caps of self-tapping screws. The full rollout guides shown in the photo are divided into two parts, but their fastener axes coincide. We attach the wide parts to the base of the sliding table, flush with the ends and the bottom of the frame. The axis of the fastener is located at a distance of 20 mm from the bottom of the base.

Full Rollout Guides

We fasten the mating, narrow parts of the guides onto the U-shaped chipboard boxes, and mark the axis of the fastener, stepping back 18 mm from the bottom. That is, the chipboard box will protrude 2 mm upwards relative to the frame - to give room for corners and the table top does not “crawl” along the frame.

We snap the guides and check the docking of the boxes. There are free, adjustable holes along the fastener axes on the rails and you can slightly loosen the self-tapping screws (4x16), adjusting the docking.

We fasten the tabletops to the sliding boxes on the corners - respectively from the inside. Luckily, we left room for them. The easiest way to carry out this operation is to move the boxes and lay the countertops on top. Then, by gently pushing each side along with the tabletop element, we will achieve a perfect match - better than with any markup.

We have already actually explained how to make a sliding table with your own hands. But this is just the simplest, one might say, elementary option - with certain additional amenities.

In fact, you can add fantasy moments to it: Round off the corners of the tabletops and snap them with a piping, play with colors, making them contrasting, put the entire table on wheel supports, changing the dimensions.

The main thing is to decide on the "stove", from which you can already dance "as God puts on your soul."

Collecting cabinet furniture is a pleasure. All costs pale in front of the ease of use of items made "for themselves." We invite you to explore common folding designs. dining tables, as well as the technique of their assembly, and you can make a folding dining table with your own hands.

What are we going to make

The main advantage of folding tables is their mobility, and for this they must be light. Exactly to the extent that the housewife will cope with their transformation and movement. It is unlikely that a table made of solid wood will be easy to lift, and with small dimensions such material is completely inappropriate.

It is supposed to use light and thin laths of factory-cut chipboard or self-cut to create the base of the table.

For countertops, the choice is almost unlimited. Perhaps you prefer the usual particle boards, but also pay attention to MDF panels, furniture boards or 40 mm kitchen countertops chipboard with acrylic or vinyl coating. However, keep in mind that for most of these materials, the wrong side is different from the front, it simply does not withstand normal operating loads. This moment can be decisive in some table designs.

Swivel, sliding or classic "book"

There are truly many ways to transform the countertop. The simplest and most familiar of them is used in a table-cabinet, which has two lifting tabletops on piano hinges and swivel legs as a support for them. The table is not always convenient: the person sitting at the central section simply has nowhere to put his knees, moreover, when unfolding it, he often has to move and turn. The aesthetic value of such furniture is almost zero, but the "book" is the most budgetary version of the table.

Sliding tables have a rigid frame with fixed legs. Only the tabletop undergoes transformation: it moves to the side to the middle of the frame, while the open part is covered by the second half, which is stored separately. Such tables are good in spacious dining rooms, the transformation is carried out in a few simple movements.

By the way, there are several layout options, for example, the edges of the table top can be moved with the insertion of the central segment. Or, for example, the tabletop can be folded in half on hidden mortise hinges and lean back onto the open part of the frame after shifting. Do not bypass the rotary structures, in which the tabletop does not move to the side, but rotates perpendicularly, after which it is complemented by the second half.

Making table legs

The legs for the "book" are assembled from three strips of chipboard. Two of them are fastened with the letter G on 60 mm confirmations. At the end of a 100 mm rail, for this, it is necessary to drill a through hole of 4 mm, expand it with a 6 mm drill to a depth of 70 mm, and then with a 10 mm drill to a depth of 60 mm. In other words, manually and gradually perform milling for a recessed confirmation.

To prevent the tabletop from swinging around, the leg is covered from the end with a bar 100 mm wide and fastened with 45 mm confirmations in three arbitrary places, hiding the traces of the previous fastening. This method of fastening is the least noticeable and most durable, but you can also use overlay corners, dowels or ties.

For a sliding table, legs from two chipboard strips folded perpendicularly are suitable. A rectangular frame is assembled between the legs of the same material, which fastens the base of the table. Another, more complicated option is to assemble square boxes from planks 84 mm wide and tighten them with confirmations. Such strict and discreet legs will suit most interior solutions, while providing good stability and allowing you to comfortably stretch your legs.

You can also use chrome pipes or turned products as legs for all types of tables.

The main frame is very simple

For sliding and rotary tables the main frame is made of chipboard strips 120-200 mm wide. In general, the frame encircles the legs in a circle and hides the traces of the table top. Square legs can also be fastened not with an external belt, but with intermediate inserts. The upper ends of the parts must be flush; to give diagonal strength, it is possible to add jumpers inside the frame. The elements are fastened with furniture corners on the inside.

The total length of the base should be 40-50% less than the length of the tabletop when unfolded. The width is chosen so that the overhang of the tabletop along the edges is at least 100-150 mm.

When assembling the base for a “book”, the main dimensions have a stricter relationship. The central segment of the table top determines the overall width of the table, which should be 20-25 cm less than the length of the side wings. That, in turn, should be less than the height of the table by about 50 mm. Since the legs are hidden inside the base when the table is assembled, its minimum width when folded is at least 300 mm.

The base itself is assembled in the shape of the letter P and reinforced with one crossbar 400 mm wide in the center on the edge. It is possible to fasten from the inside with furniture corners, but in this case it is better to prefer confirmations. The leg loops are attached no closer than 50 mm to the edge of the side walls.

Hidden storage sections

Often the inner space of the base of the table is used to store dishes or household chemicals. The easiest way to organize a storage space is inside a folding "book". The width of the central segment must be increased by 200-250 mm and several horizontal shelves should be used instead of one vertical crossbar. It is also possible with a blind lining of the inner box and the installation of doors on the ends of the base.

Due to the complex shape of the legs, the door will be 100 mm wider than the box on both sides, so it is important to remember one thing: the handle on the door is installed on the side where the table leg is in the folded state. Accordingly, under different wings, the direction of opening the doors and the location of the legs should be opposite.

In sliding tables for arranging a niche, it is enough to knock out the frame from below with a solid sheet of MDF and add a few cross bars to secure the bottom more firmly. Another option is to use frame strips up to 400 mm wide and fasten the base along the center. Drawers can be installed in the formed niches on full extension rails.

Countertop options

The tabletop for the “book” must be assembled upside down, laying out the sheets of chipboard on the floor and carefully aligning them. The wings are connected to the central section with piano hinges, then drilling is performed for dowels for fixing to the ends of the base. Additionally, it is necessary to provide limiters in the center of each wing so that the leg does not develop from accidental movement of the foot.

The most versatile option for mounting the table top of sliding tables is on drawer rails. To do this, the table top or its halves are complemented by a pair of longitudinal ribs, the distance between which is 20 mm greater than the width of the base body. The guides can be used as regular or full extension, their length must be comparable to the overhang of the tabletop in the unfolded state. This installation allows you to maximize the size of the unfolded table, at the same time, strength and stability do not deteriorate.

If the tabletop is assembled from two halves, they can be folded with their front surfaces to each other and embedded hidden loops into the ends. With this option, the front surface of the unfolded tabletop always remains intact, that is, its individual parts will not have varying degrees of wear.

Metal dowels at the ends of different segments of the tabletops are also very useful, which ensures greater solidity and eliminates the formation of bumpers and drops.

Device type
Materials and fixings
The size of the parts of the sliding table
Frame and leg design
Preparation of countertop components
Assembling a sliding dining item

The dining table is considered one of the most necessary attributes in a kitchen or dining room. The size of the table is calculated based on the number of people using it, and total area the premises in which it will be located.

Today, the modern furniture industry offers a variety of various options dining tables, but the most common model is the type of table with a sliding top. This is primarily due to the fact that such a table fits almost any small room. Its versatility allows you to save a significant amount of usable space in the kitchen or dining room. The sliding table is quite convenient in operation, it can be installed in any part of the room.

In spite of technological features, sliding table type has a simple design. Therefore, if you do not have the opportunity to purchase ready-made dining furniture, you can make a sliding type of table with your own hands. To do this, it is not necessary to have professional skills, it is enough to understand a little carpentry.

Device type

At the moment, the furniture market offers tables with special devices that require only the rotation of the desired handle for instant and independent transformation. Such designs are considered advanced, most often they have a high cost. Therefore, the average consumer cannot always afford high-tech furniture.

It is not possible to assemble an attribute of furniture with such a mechanism at home, but on the other hand, you can independently design a sliding-type dining table of a simpler type. The main factor in the discomfort during the operation of such tables is the absence of any mechanism that is responsible for shifting parts of the table top. In Soviet times, they did not pay much attention to this, therefore, almost all elements of the furniture of the last century were put forward and retracted by human effort.

To simplify the design, while adding convenience to it when using it, you will need to equip the sliding table with a special mechanism.

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Materials and fixings

The production of the dining table will be carried out on the basis of a classic design, which involves its combination with some modern elements.

For manufacturing, you will need the following materials, accessories and tools:

A small bar for table legs with a section of 4 × 4 cm (the height of the dining table is about 73 cm, so you will need to make 4 legs 71 cm long).
For the base, high-quality plywood with a layer thickness of 2 cm is used.
The tabletop and frame are made of laminated boards of the chipboard type, the thickness of which must be at least 1.8 cm.
Self-tapping wood screws 4×50 mm.
Self-tapping screws 4×16 mm.
Carpentry dowels 8 × 40 mm in size.
Joiner's corners made of iron for self-tapping screws measuring 3 × 3 cm.
Adhesive type edge in the color of the laminated worktop.
Sandpaper or grinder.
Construction adhesive for gluing dowels.
Electric drill with drills with a diameter of 8-10 mm.
Household iron.
Extended set of carpentry tools.
Scissors or construction knife.
Roulette for measuring constituent elements.
High-quality wood paint and varnish to cover the outer parts of the table.

The main innovative idea in the Soviet-style sliding table is the presence of a roll-out mechanism, which is most often used in the manufacture of drawers.

Synchronous mechanism with stopper for frameless tables with fastening to the tabletop.

For a particular table, two guides will be enough, the length of which should be about 30 cm. In any case, the mount is hidden under the tabletop, so the color and condition of the hardware do not matter.

Sawing components from laminated chipboard and plywood must be uniform, accurate and highly accurate. Therefore, it is best to entrust this work to a skilled worker with a special saw used in furniture production.

The total size of the dining table, excluding height, is 90×70 cm in the assembled position and 130×70 cm in the extended position. This size will be enough to seat 8-12 people at the table in free seating.

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The size of the parts of the sliding table

The components of the table in question will have the following dimensions:

the tabletop consists of two parts, the size of each is 45 × 70 cm;
the dismantled tabletop element has a size of 40 × 70 cm;
side parts for boxes under the table should be 42 × 12 cm each (4 pieces in total);
the end elements of the boxes under the table have a size of 60 × 12 cm (2 pieces in total).

The value of the components on a plywood base:

the end elements of the frame and the crossbar, on which the dismantled part of the table is placed in the assembled form, have a size of 50 × 12 cm each (4 pieces in total);
the side parts of the frame have a size of 83 × 12 cm each (2 pieces in total).

It is necessary to pay special attention to the finish of each element, as they will always be in sight. If the table will be placed indoors, then it will not require a special moisture-resistant coating. But splinters still need to be removed, so the best solution is to do a good sanding before varnishing the parts. After identifying roughness, you need to process the surface with emery and varnish it again.

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Frame and leg design

The end elements and the crossbar are placed in the middle of the side parts of the frame. The first 2 parts should be fixed parallel to the edges of the side parts, the second 2 parts are located almost in the very center of the formed frame parallel to the bottom edge. The interval between the parts should be approximately 10-12 cm. The dismantled part of the countertop will be conveniently located on the formed structure, but to pull it out, you will need to slightly tilt one of the sides. For this reason, it is necessary to make the interval between the crossbars as small as possible.

The legs are inserted into the corner of the frame and twist right through it from the outside. This is done using self-tapping screws measuring 4x50 mm. In addition, it is necessary to place iron corners on the surface of the frame and legs. At this stage, it is important to check the reliability of the design and the uniformity of the location of each of the legs, otherwise the table will swing. If you find any deviations, you can immediately correct their height.

The appearance of sliding furniture used to be associated with a small area of apartments. And today, more and more often, a rational approach is used in the arrangement of premises: it is not necessary to have a large table in the house or office, you can get by with a smaller product. But capacious tables become necessary during the reception of delegations and guests. What to do? The answer to such a request are tables of different styles made of wood, plastic, metal, glass, equipped with various transformation mechanisms. Such furniture is able to double or even triple the usable area of the countertop.

In spite of a large number of suggestions, there is a desire to make a round, oval or rectangular sliding table with your own hands. This is due to objective advantages:

You can choose the dimensions of the product yourself.
The layout mechanism depends on the desire of the owner.
Independent choice of material, color, design.
Saving money.

Drawings, photographs and a description of the work from the masters will simplify the process.

Technical solutions refute stereotypes. The coffee table in the living room, thanks to the installation of a special mechanism, will provide a comfortable place for gatherings with friends. The useful area of the countertop will increase by 2 times.

In our version, the folded table has the following dimensions:

width - 75 cm,
length - 90 cm,
height - 46 cm;

unfolded:

width - 150 cm,
length - 90 cm,
height - 78 cm.

Individual production allows you to change the size of the product, and, accordingly, its parts at the request of the master. A sliding table can be made of wood, but making it yourself will be time-consuming. The use of chipboard will greatly simplify the task.

The sliding mechanism is available in two versions:

two single for symmetrical installation;

double.

Keep in mind that a round table cannot be made foldable with this type of fixture.

If you like to create such structures with your own hands, purchase parts from which you can make two layout mechanisms.

tube 20x20 cm - 4 linear meters;
tube 50x25 cm - 1.2 p. m;
metal strip. - 1 p. m;
6 bolts M8x120;
2 bolts M8x60;
2 bolts M8x50;
8 bolts M4x20;
26 nuts M8;
24 washers 30x8;
12 intersection screeds;
4 gas shock absorbers 120-140N.

The device and the connection points of the mechanisms can be understood by considering the diagram below.

Stock up on furniture fittings:

eccentric coupler in the amount of 16 pieces;
32 confirmations;
32 self-tapping screws 30x4;
4 plastic double corners;
8 self-tapping screws 4x16;
futorki D8 М6х13, 12 pieces in total;
2 bolts M6x30;
8 bolts M6x20;
4 bolts M6x15;
3 hinges;
4 furniture corners;
edge tape.

You will also need tools: a jigsaw, an electric drill, a screwdriver, a key for confirmations.

From chipboard (25 mm) it is necessary to cut:

2 worktop panel blanks, 750x900 mm each;
2 panels 730x460 mm - the ends of the base of the table;
2 panels 730x150 mm - sidewalls of the box hiding the mechanism;
2 panels 680x730 mm - the bottom of the box;
detail 730x730 mm - internal shelf (optional).

Cutting parts with your own hands must be done as accurately as possible, this will help to assemble the product easier, faster and better. If you have not made tables or cut wood-based materials before, contact a specialist who works with professional carpentry equipment.

Description of work

Paste the ends of the blanks with melamine edging. This will give them a neat look and protect them from damage. The edge must be selected in the color of the base material.
We proceed to the connection of the sides and the bottom of the box with confirmations to accommodate the transformation mechanism.
Make symmetrical marks on opposite sides of the base cabinet to install an additional shelf. We fasten the shelf with confirmations: 2-3 pieces on each side. Try to ensure that the confirmations enter slowly into the middle of the chipboard, in this case the risk of damage to the integrity of the material is reduced.
Attach the drawer to the end legs using furniture corners. Reinforce with 1-2 confirmations by screwing them into the junction of the end of the table and the bottom of the box.
Connect the parts of the countertop with card loops.
Install the transformation mechanism in the prepared drawer.
Fasten the platforms of the mechanism with confirmations to the tabletop.

If you decide to make a table with your own hands with a single mechanism, then connect the first pair to the bottom of the tabletop, and fasten the other with a connecting panel (from the bottom side).

A large table is the dream of every hospitable hostess. After all, all his friends will fit behind him without any problems. The most popular is the traditional rectangular design, although round and oval tables have always been considered symbols of comfort and well-being.

Today, there are many transformation mechanisms for both rectangular and round tables. We offer to make a full-fledged dining table with your own hands with a tabletop size of 116x92 cm. After expanding and installing an additional tab 42 cm wide, it will be converted into great place for a feast 158 cm long.

What you need to create an oval table

Pine boards good quality(for countertop) meter length.
4 bars with a section of 75 × 75 mm, length 770 mm for legs. Their color should be similar to the boards.
Joiner's glue.
Lathe.
Grinding machine with nozzles of different grain sizes.
Electric drill.
Clamps.
Dowels.
Self-tapping screws.
Joiner's glue.
Stain, varnish for wood.
Roulette, level, pencil.

We collect the countertop with our own hands. Please refer to the detail drawings. If you want to make a rectangular or round table instead of an oval table, make your own changes.

For correct markup shape the legs, make designations using the template.
The bars should be turned at low machine speeds (1500 rpm). Be extra careful when making balls. To avoid breakage, it is better to give the legs an oval shape in this place. You can also order this work from an experienced craftsman or buy finished products of the required parameters.

Folding kitchen table oval shape is perfect for those who like to dine with the whole family and receive guests from time to time. It's pretty easy to do it yourself. Self-made furniture is distinguished by original design and the ability to take into account individual needs, due to the characteristics of the room and the taste of the owners of the house.

Why an oval table

An oval-shaped folding dining table is good because it has rounded corners. This avoids "unpleasant collisions" and is especially appreciated by those who have small children at home. The oval shape suggests the location of the table in the center of the room. However, if necessary, you can put such a table at the kitchen corner.

Preparation for work

Before starting work, you must:

Determine the dimensions of the future table.
Make sketches and drawings of the design of the product and its individual parts.
The choice of material for countertops and supports.
Calculate the required amount of materials.
Purchase materials, fasteners and accessories.

Determining the size and shape of the table

The size of the product depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe kitchen and the number of people that need to be placed at the table. The optimal solution for a medium-sized kitchen there will be a folding dining table measuring 120 × 80 cm (folded), consisting of two parts with dimensions of 60 × 80 cm each.

It will be correct to draw a sketch of the future product on a scale, in order to understand what ratio of the width and length of the table will allow you to maintain a beautiful rounded shape even when unfolded, as well as a size suitable for a particular kitchen.

For a kitchen of this size, a folding oval dining table measuring 120 × 80 cm is suitable if you put it with a kitchenette. If you place the table in the center of the room, access to kitchen cabinets and household appliances will be difficult. When receiving guests, you can put it in the middle of the kitchen.

The optimal length of the dining table top section, for the convenient location of one person, is 60 cm. The sketch shows that a 120 × 80 cm sliding table is perfect for four to six people (six will fit behind it if you push the table to the center of the kitchen). In the unfolded form at such a table it will be possible to seat up to 8 people. If you need a folding dining table for more guests, you can increase the size of the insert or make two of the same.

Execution of drawings

It is necessary to complete the following drawings and sketches (option with a two-piece table top 60 × 80 cm and one insert 40 × 80 cm):

drawing of the details of the main table top, to determine the desired shape of the table and the corresponding rounding radius;

Two-piece table top 60×80 cm, rounding radius 20 cm

Two-piece table top 60×80 cm, rounding radius 30 cm

Two-piece table top 60×80 cm, rounding radius 40 cm

insert drawing 80x40 cm;
sketch of the tabletop in extended form;
for tables with a tsarga (underframe) a drawing of the details of the tsarga.

The specified dimensions of the drawer parts are suitable for a folding dining table measuring 120 × 80 cm in a shifted position. It is necessary to make two parts with dimensions of 80 × 12 cm and 40 × 12 cm.

Material selection

Folding kitchen table details:

countertop and inserts to it;
supports (legs);
tsarga;
edge (for tables made of chipboard and MDF);
extension mechanism;
countertop clamps;
fasteners.

For the manufacture of the top of the folding table, you can use wood, chipboard, MDF, a natural stone and glass. Chipboard and MDF can be either laminated or plastic coated. The thickness of the tabletop can be from 18 to 48 mm (sometimes more).

Natural stone is the most durable, moisture and heat resistant material. But this material has a significant disadvantage, this is a rather high cost. Alternatively, you can use a chipboard or MDF countertop, decorated ceramic tiles.

When choosing the color and thickness of the countertop, it is imperative to take into account the design of the rest of the furniture in the kitchen, especially the thickness and texture of the countertop. kitchen set.

The legs can be made from the same material as the tabletop, or you can purchase ready-made metal supports. They are of two types: for tables with a frame and for frameless designs.

The drawer side can also be made from the same material as the countertop, or from any other material that is suitable in thickness and texture.

For processing slices of chipboard and MDF, edges are used:

The most budgetary and least practical option is the melamine edge, it is the thinnest and is a paper tape with a density of 120-130 g per square meter. m. Its thickness is 0.1 mm.

The PVC edge differs from it in greater thickness and wear resistance.

The ABS edge is made of plastic and is characterized by increased impact resistance and resistance to external influences.

Acrylic edging is often referred to as 3D edging due to its "bulky" effect. This is the most advantageous, in terms of appearance, option.

PVC, ABS and acrylic edges have a thickness of 0.4 to 2 mm. Depending on the thickness of the countertop and other details of the product, a suitable edge width is selected, which ranges from 18 to 55 mm. On sale there are types of edges with an already applied adhesive layer.

There are three types of sliding mechanisms for folding tables according to the method of fastening:

for barless tables;
for internal fastening to the side;
for external fastening to the king.

According to the method of expansion, there are two types of mechanisms: synchronous and non-synchronous. In the first case, the details of the tabletop are moved apart at the same time, in the second case, separately.

When buying, you need to take into account the length of the mechanism not extended and the maximum size of the inserts (these parameters should be indicated in the characteristics of the mechanism).

For a folding table without a frame measuring 120 × 80 cm in a shifted state with two inserts of 40 or 50 cm, a mechanism 98 cm long with a maximum insert size of 50 cm (48/980 / T2S) is suitable.

To fix the countertop, you will additionally need special locks-clamps. Their number depends on how many inserts the table will have.

Calculation of the necessary materials

Based on the completed drawings, you need to calculate:

the total area of all table parts made of wood, chipboard or MDF;
edge footage, for tables made of chipboard and MDF.

For a table without a frame with a table top made of two pieces of chipboard measuring 60 × 80 cm and one insert 40 cm wide, you will need: 1.3 sq. m. Chipboard, 9 m edges (with a margin), 4 metal supports, sliding mechanism, 4 tabletop clamps, dowels and self-tapping screws.

Table making process

Cut out the details of the table according to the drawings and cut them out.
Glue the cut edges.
Assemble the table.
Finish finishing.

Instruments:

large ruler or tape measure;
pencil;
electric jigsaw;
milling cutter;
belt grinder;
drill;
iron or building hair dryer.

cutting

Chipboard and MDF can be purchased in the form of sheets (boards) of a certain size. The minimum dimensions of a chipboard or MDF sheet are 244 x 120 cm. From the above calculation, it can be seen that for the manufacture of an oval sliding kitchen table measuring 120 x 80 cm (160 x 80 when extended), one such sheet will be needed.

Examples of cutting a chipboard sheet for an oval sliding kitchen table

The main tabletop will consist of two pieces 60x80 cm in size. In addition to it, there will be one piece 40x80 cm in size. The rest of the material can be used to make stools and as a result you will get a wonderful kitchen set.

You can cut out parts using a jigsaw, rounding is done with a milling machine.

edge banding

First you need to carefully treat all the sections with a sealant (silicone), let it dry, and then you can start gluing the edge. For this, an iron or a building hair dryer is used.

It is necessary to pre-clean the sections from wood dust. Then attach the edge so that it completely covers the cut (the width of the edge must be greater than the thickness of the countertop). Turn on the iron and set the "synthetics" mode. Lay newspaper between the iron and the cut and start heating the edge. After it starts to stick, smooth the finished area with a cloth and continue to iron with the iron. You need to smooth it until the edge cools down.

If the edge does not have its own adhesive layer, then any universal adhesive can be used. The cut surface must be smooth and dust-free. Glue must be applied to both the edge and the end and glued together, while smoothing with a roller or cloth. Instead of fabric and roller, you can use wooden block covered with felt.

After completion of work, it is required to carefully check for fragments with a loose fit. Then you need to chip off the edge protruding beyond the edges, remove the remaining glue and sand the edges with sandpaper.

Better bonding can be achieved with a building hair dryer. A jet of air with a temperature of 200 degrees should be directed only to the adhesive layer. Well-heated glue should protrude from under the edge. Remove excess glue only after complete drying.

Table assembly

Assembly is performed in the following sequence:

Fold the halves of the main countertop together.
Attach to them sliding mechanism.

Install table brackets.

Move the halves of the main tabletop and insert the removable part.
Fasten the latches on the insert so that, when extended, their parts coincide with the corresponding parts of the main tabletop.

Screw the legs to the table top.

To do this, on the reverse side of the countertop we apply markings with a pencil to determine the place of attachment of the legs. The optimal distance from the edge of the tabletop to the leg is 10 cm. On the beam connecting the center of the circle along which the tabletop was rounded with its edge, we retreat from the edge of the tabletop 13 cm (10 cm + 3 cm radius of the leg) and put a point. This point will coincide with the center of the support.

The sliding table is convenient and compact. But not everyone has the opportunity to buy it, since the price of a sliding table is quite high. But all craftsmen who are ready to create household items with their own hands have the opportunity to make it on their own. Tabletops can be made with your own hands, using a glass coating or wood. Glass tables or from natural wood species look very nice. But since natural materials are not cheap, it is better to entrust the legs and tabletop to be cut by specialists so as not to spoil the tree. Very beautiful sliding tables - on one leg.

The sliding table is very convenient and compact, it can also be made by hand using a glass or wooden cover.

The design can be chosen at will, for example, to make the legs chiseled or figured. The sliding table will have the following dimensions (in millimeters):

table height - 775;
countertop width - 885;
countertop length - 1245;
insert - 375.

Materials and tools that will be needed for modeling

In order to make such a sliding table, not so many materials are required, so the piece of furniture will turn out to be inexpensive, but practical and beautiful. The most important thing is that all parts have the right size and are symmetrical. From the materials you will need:

wooden bars (legs) - section 85 \ 85 mm, length 745 mm;
frames connecting the legs (width - 105 mm, thickness 30 mm): 2 pcs. 925 mm long (+ 2 spikes - their length is 40-55 mm), 2 pieces 485 mm each (+ 2 spikes, 40-55 mm long);
2 wooden worktop surfaces of the same size - 805 mm wide, 625 mm long;
worktop insert - width 375 mm;
for countertops, it is better to choose a carpentry shield (thickness 35-45 mm);
sliding mechanism;
wooden spikes for connecting frames (diameter 9-11 mm);
a drill to create nests into which spikes will then be inserted;
self-tapping screws for installing a sliding mechanism;
glue for wooden surfaces (you can use PVA);
machine for grinding wooden surfaces;
sandpaper is loose;
varnish for coating wooden surfaces;
brush;
ruler.

DIY sliding table - assembly

When the parts are assembled, the modeling process can begin. First of all, it is necessary to mark the nests on the wooden blanks for the legs. In the future, the spikes of the frames will be inserted into these sockets to connect the legs. In accordance with the diameter of the spike, you need to make holes. It is better to “plant” the spikes on the glue, in which case the structure will be much stronger.

First you need to assemble the underframe and only then proceed with the assembly of the main parts. A prerequisite is that the docking at the ends should be as accurate as possible. After placing the spikes in the nests, assemble the structure. It is not recommended to glue the parts right away, it is better to assemble the entire table first, see with your own eyes whether the sizes and joints match, and only then glue the parts.

After all the above steps, you need to start installing the insert. Some differences in the level of one or more parts may occur, which can be easily eliminated with a grinder. The sliding table mechanism is mainly made of aluminum. Installation is carried out either with self-tapping screws or by gluing.

The next step is the installation of the sliding mechanism. It is not difficult to attach it, it is enough to fasten the guides to the long frames, and each of the sliders to its own part of the tabletop. It is better to mount the sliding mechanism by turning the table on the countertop. It is imperative that after installing the mechanism, you need to check how the center insert will be installed.

Under the tabletop, you need to install two slats the same length as the wooden center insert. This should be done for ease of use - when the insert board is not needed, it will be under the table top and held by slats. After the assembly process ready product can be covered with stain.

A round table is considered a real chic and luxury. To date, they are the most expensive on the market, especially those made from natural wood. It is also possible to make a sliding table with your own hands in a round shape, the main thing is to have a desire.

Sliding table do it yourself round shape

Basically, the assembly technique round table does not differ from the technique described above. The only thing is that the edges of the countertop will have a rounded shape. For its manufacture you will need:

whatman;
scissors;
any glue for a wooden surface;
bar for legs;
simple pencil;
ruler;
boards;
plywood 8 mm;
self-tapping screws;
screwdriver;
hacksaw.

Using a large compass, you need to cut out the shape of the future tabletop from whatman paper. Only after that cut it out of wood. What kind of tabletop will be - glass or wood, depends on the desire of the owner of the future sliding table.

Glass and wooden sliding tables look much more beautiful if they have one curly leg.

What you need to know about assembling a sliding table with your own hands

All about countertop

First of all, it is necessary to decide what material and what shape the table will be made of. Pine or chipboard is perfect. Naturally, a pine board is preferable, as it is much stronger, in addition, pine boards are environmentally friendly. Boards are cut and processed according to the size of the future countertop. In the event that the table is nevertheless made of chipboard, the sheets must be drawn into 3 parts, 2 of which will be the same size, and the 3rd part will serve as an insert in the center of the tabletop. Before assembling this piece of furniture, it is better to draw a drawing or use ready-made drawings. In order for it to be strong and last for a long time, it is necessary to observe accuracy in the calculations. Only in this case it will not “float” and will be durable.

The legs are mainly made from bars, which can be purchased at the store. The color scheme of the tabletop and legs should be either the same or differ in color by 1-2 tones. And the countertop should be darker. A prerequisite for the manufacture of a sliding table is the proportionality of the dimensions of the table top and legs. Too thin legs will not be able to hold a large tabletop. The length of the legs should match the overall look - a small coffee table will not look good with long legs. But if the idea is an unusual sliding table, then special attention is paid to marking the center of the bar. Legs can be curly. It is also possible to make a figured leg on your own. To do this, it is enough to study the technique of carving figures from wood.

Tsarga - these are strips that connect two parts with ends. To mark the drawers, you need to put the tabletop on a comfortable surface “face down”, but before that it is better to lay it soft tissue so as not to damage the surface. It is better to make each of the blanks of the tsargi a little larger than the intended size. The excess can always be removed, but the shortcomings of the length - no. The drawer is processed by a lathe and a milling cutter.

All about Assembly

The most important step is assembly. Particular attention must be paid to the connection of the side frames to the leg or legs. To do this, each spike must correspond to a pre-prepared groove. Do not forget about the grooves - they provide a strong connection. When applying glue for structural strength, after drying, all its excess must be removed with sandpaper. In any work, inconsistencies can occur, for example, mismatched edges of the tabletop. This is easy to fix with a grinder. Then clean with sandpaper and varnish the surface.

Advantages of sliding tables

The main and clear advantage of a do-it-yourself sliding table is its versatility. A special mechanism helps to make a large dining table out of a small compact table. That is why it is convenient for small apartment rooms. It does not take up much space, but allows you to seat about 9-10 people.

Due to the fact that there is a huge amount of material on the trade market for creating a sliding table at home, it can be made not only multifunctional and convenient, but also beautiful and stylish.

You can classify tables that are moved apart as follows:

Transformers.

Sliding tables got this name due to their unique ability reincarnate. From a seemingly small table, you can get a quite roomy dining room. The tables are round or oval in shape. The main distinguishing feature of these tables is the increase not only in their size, but also in height. You can make such a table with your own hands. To do this, it is enough to have a drawing. In addition, transformers have recently become very popular not only because of their convenience, but also because of their design excellence. Basically, transforming tables are made of wood or glass. Mirrored ones look very nice and save a lot of space in an apartment or house.

Standard sliding tables.

Tables of this type are no less popular. They are made of natural wood, fiberboard or chipboard. The advantage lies in their compactness. In addition, making a sliding table with your own hands will not be difficult. It is enough to follow the instructions for their construction.

Any sliding table is comfort and versatility. All of them are practical and economical. You can make a table not only for eating, but also for drawing, games. A do-it-yourself extendable table is a great way to make a child's room comfortable and stylish. In addition to all the advantages, transporting sliding tables is much easier than conventional ones.

A do-it-yourself extendable table for a children's room is an ideal solution, especially if there are several children in the family. In addition, it can be combined with a bed. Well, the most important positive side of the do-it-yourself sliding table is its economical cost.

Regardless of the size of the kitchen, whether it is a spacious kitchen in a new building, a country house or a small one in a small family, the most important piece of furniture is the kitchen table. For the production of tables today are used different Construction Materials e.g. glass, metal, stone, plastic, wood. But of all these materials, wood is still used more often. If you want to save money, then the kitchen table can be made independently. In this scenario, you can save up to 70% of the cost of the table. But first you should work hard and take into account a large number of factors that we will consider together with you in this article.

Making important measurements and calculations

Before starting work on the manufacture of the kitchen table, it is important to make some calculations. Usually such tables are calculated for a specific number of people. As a rule, this number ranges from three to nine. But it is best to take into account a couple of extra places in the calculations, in case guests arrive. If you are hospitable hosts, then most likely you will need a large table that can accommodate up to fifteen people.

Important calculations:

The working length for one person should be 60 cm. This figure is multiplied by the number of people. The resulting figure will be the perimeter of the future table.
How exactly the table will be installed: in the middle of the kitchen, near the wall. In the first version, the table will be able to accommodate more guests.
Will the table have drawers or other accessories.

Decide on the size and location. The optimal table width is 80-110 cm. If a narrower table is planned, then you will have difficulty serving. In the case of choosing an oval table shape, it is necessary to calculate the circumference. To do this, multiply the square of the radius by the number Pi (3.14).

Round or oval kitchen tables are necessarily located only in the center of the kitchen.

Do not place the table near the stove.
You can not put a table under the air conditioner.

It is equally important to decide on the shape of the table. Surface geometry can drastically change the look of an entire space. It directly depends on the shape whether it will be convenient to eat or not. Most of all, a rectangular shape with right angles is in demand. These countertops are great for square or rectangular kitchens. At the same time, it can be placed near the wall or in the center of the room.

Oval-shaped tables are also very popular. There are several valid reasons:

The oval table has an attractive appearance.
There is no need to go around corners. This is especially convenient when there are small children in the house.
An oval table is best suited for a formal meal.

There are a lot of advantages in favor of an oval shaped kitchen table. But in the presence of a large family, it is inferior to a rectangular shape. There are also round shapes, but with this option it will be inconvenient to take certain dishes. As for the oval table top, the ideal diameter is 140 cm.

So, when choosing the shape of the table, start mainly from your own taste. Moreover, remember that for a kitchen of 8 m 2 or less, an oval table will be impractical, as it will require a lot of free space.

We prepare drawings and tools

If you have decided on the size and shape of the kitchen table, then you can proceed to the next step - drawing up a drawing. It should display the required dimensions of the surface, legs and other elements. You should consider the method of fastening certain nodes. Consider, for example, a kitchen table that will have the following dimensions: 120x60x75.

Although such a table will be small, you can easily understand the principle of making such furniture using its example. In your drawing, you can resize the table according to your needs.

You will need:

Tabletop 1.2 × 0.6 m - 1 piece.
Cross jumpers 40 × 2.5 cm - 2 pieces.
Longitudinal jumpers 100 × 2.5 cm - 2 pieces.
Table legs 70 cm high - 4 pieces.

To build a countertop, you need to prepare boards of the appropriate size. Before starting work, you will need to consider the method of attaching important nodes.

First of all, you need to collect all essential tool and materials:

plane,
hacksaw,
electric jigsaw,
screwdriver,
sandpaper,
ruler or tape measure
square,
pencil,
circular saw,
milling machine,
file,
clamps,
paint brush,
wood glue,
polyurethane varnish: matt or glossy,
solvent.

When everything is ready, you can get to work.

Assembly Guide: Countertop Requirements

As for the countertop, it is important to decide whether it will be sliding or not. For example, when assembled, the table can be used for cooking, and in a sliding state as a means for eating.

The countertop should not absorb odors and grease. Also consider practicality.

A good countertop should not absorb moisture, withstand strong blows. The surface of the table should not be afraid of steam, condensate and high temperature. All these requirements are met by a countertop made of natural and artificial stone or covered with ceramic tiles. But it should be noted that such a table will look only in the interior of modern style.

One of the most common types of countertops is chipboard, laminated with film or covered with plastic. At the price of chipboard plates are available to many. Moreover, such material is the easiest to work with. Some may deny that chipboard countertops are practical. This is partly true, but with proper processing, it will last more than one year. Here are some recommendations and tips for working with chipboard countertops:

The film or plastic should be rounded at the ends of the chipboard.
Each 90° rounded end is treated with silicone.
However, in this position, the end is vulnerable to moisture ingress, so it is better to wrap the end 180 °.

You should be objective and mention the disadvantages of such a countertop. If the chipboard swells, then there is no way to fix this problem. As a result, you will have to make a new table or at least a countertop. But, on the other hand, such a surface is resistant to aggressive detergents and to mechanical influences.

Of course, if we talk about the most ideal and environmentally friendly option, then here the tree rightfully comes first. But in the care of such a surface is more capricious. Do not allow moisture to penetrate into the wood, allow scratches and other damage. Microbes can settle and multiply inside them, which adversely affect the mechanical strength of wood. Therefore, from time to time, wood countertops must be varnished, cleaned, and opened with a layer of wax.

leg requirements

The number of legs will vary depending on the shape and size of the table. For example, if you are making a table from chipboard, then 4 legs will be enough, which are attached to the corners of the tabletop. If you make strong wooden legs, then this design will be durable and strong.

Legs can be made by hand. To do this, you can purchase a ready-made sketch. The complexity of this work will depend entirely on the shape of the legs. If you think that this is beyond your power, then purchase ready-made metal legs or choose carved wooden ones. Everything will depend on your financial capabilities.

The table can be on one leg. As mentioned above, this will depend directly on the weight, shape and configuration of the countertop and the table as a whole.

The table, which has one massive leg, looks impressive and beautiful from the side. For its installation, a high-quality cruciform strapping is performed.

Two massive legs are located at a certain distance from each other. In most cases, a table with two legs is rectangular or oval. The advantage of such structures is that the legs will not interfere with any of the sitting people. As for the design of such legs, they expand at the bottom to increase the area of \u200b\u200bsupport. Between themselves, they are connected by a jumper board.

But ordinary tables with four legs are simple in design and do not need precise and complex calculations. This table is stable and durable. The most important thing here is to choose the right size of the legs and mount them at the right distance. At the same time, tables on four legs can be very different in shape: oval, round, square, rectangular.

So, regardless of the number of legs chosen in your design, their aesthetics always remain the most important. The aesthetic appeal of the table legs is even more important than the beauty of the countertop. After all, the tabletop is always covered with a tablecloth or oilcloth, and the legs are always visible.

We build a folding table

One of the simple shapes of the kitchen table is rectangular. This design consists of four legs and six sidewalls of the box. The table top and sidewalls can be made from 18 mm chipboard, and the legs from a 40 × 40 mm bar. First you need to make plywood drawers, 2 cm thick (table legs will be attached to them), as well as two horizontal strips. It is on them that the removable part of the table will be placed. In our case, for the manufacture you will need to purchase the following material:

Self-tapping screws 4×16.
Self-tapping screws 4×50.
Furniture corners 30×30.
Laminated edges in the color of chipboard.
Wooden dowels 8×40.

To make the table move apart, you can use standard guides. They provide smooth movement of the countertop. So, all the necessary parts of the following sizes are pre-made:

Leg 710 mm.
Two fixed parts 450×700 mm.
Removable part 400×700 mm.
For the box of the fixed part, there are four sidewalls 420 × 120 mm.
For the box for fixed parts, two end 600 × 120 mm.
From plywood, two side drawers 830 × 120 mm.
From plywood, two end sides 498 × 120 mm.
To accommodate a removable tabletop, two strips 498 × 120 mm.

With such blanks, you get a sliding table in size:

Extended 1300×700 mm.
Assembled 900×700 mm.

It is best to cut all the blanks on special equipment. This is important in order to accurately withstand all dimensions. All blanks made of plywood and wood should be carefully cleaned and varnished in two layers.

So, step by step instructions:

First of all, the side and longitudinal drawers are fixed on the outside of the legs flush with the ends. After that, with the help of self-tapping screws 4 × 50 mm, corners are attached from the outside and from the inside 4 × 16 mm. The corners are attached to the longitudinal tsargs through horizontal slats.
Further, a wide guide is fixed on the inside of the side tsarga.
Under the dowels, you will need to drill two holes on the inner ends of the countertop. They are attached for a collapsible connection, that is, one half will be free, and the second will be attached to the glue. From the dowel to the edge of the countertop, the distance should be equal, but not exceed 10 cm.
Two dowels are mounted on a removable table top. To do this, two holes are drilled on the reverse side.
At the next stage, it's time to assemble the U-shaped parts of the box from chipboard. In this case, the end elements 600 × 120 should be located between the sidewalls 420 × 120 mm.
Now screw on the narrow guides. This is necessary so that the chipboard box moves on average 2 mm higher than the plywood collet.
After that, the guides snap into place and are checked for movement along the drawer.
Attach the non-removable part of the tabletop using corners and 4x16mm self-tapping screws. Both parts must match perfectly. Therefore, just before attaching them, slide both parts and check their alignment. Then carefully push the drawers apart and secure the countertops.
On the shelf inside the table, place the removable part of the table top.

Folding table - an original solution for a small kitchen!

If your kitchen has a miniature size, then choosing the right shape for the kitchen table can be difficult. However, there is always a way out. For example, you can build a homemade folding table. When folded, it will serve as a decorative frame, and when unfolded, it will serve as a full-fledged dining table. Although in each case the size of such a table will be different, we will take our sizes as a basis. This will allow you to visualize what exactly your drawing will look like.

For work you need:

MDF board 180 mm thick - 5 pieces,
150×90 cm,
130 × 10 cm - 2 pieces,
90×20 cm,
70×20 cm,
holdfast,
wood glue,
acrylic putty,
electric drill,
drill for wood 3 mm and for metal 8-10 mm,
sandpaper,
acrylic paint for wood
roller,
masking tape,
screws 3.5×30 and 3.5×16 mm,
loops,
screwdriver,
two furniture bolts.

The whole process of work will not take you much time if you strictly follow the step-by-step instructions below.

Based on the set of material, the table will be made of MDF. Make drawings first.
The frame is built first. To do this, four smaller elements are attached to the largest board from below, using a carpentry vise. Every 250 mm, holes are drilled in the frame with a Ø3 mm drill, up to 3 cm deep.
After that, a hole is drilled with a metal drill Ø8-10 mm to a depth of 3 mm. In this way, it will be possible to deepen the heads of the twisted screws.
Further, carpentry glue is applied to the lower surface of the four frame elements, and after that, each element is applied in its place. Each of them must be well pressed with a carpenter's vice.
Mounting the frame on glue is not enough, so you should additionally fix it on screws.
At the same time, disguise the screw heads so that they do not spoil the overall look. To do this, you will need acrylic putty.
When the putty has dried, you can sand the surface of the decorative frame with sandpaper.
The ends of the countertops should be glued with masking tape.
Paint the surface of the frame acrylic paint using a roller, and paint over the corners and edges with a brush.
Then screw the hinges along the short edge of the tabletop. From the edge must be at least 150 mm. Mark holes on the wall and drill for the dowel. Thus, the hinges will be screwed to the wall.
When the table is in an upright position, it will be held on top with latches. They should be fixed in such a way that they are not conspicuous, for example, at the edges of wall shelves.

Table from postforming table top in 5 steps

Such a table can be completed in the shortest possible time. To do this, you will need to first collect all necessary material and tool. You will need:

pencil,
postforming tabletop,
jigsaw,
jigsaw file,
Sander,
edging,
cutter,
silicone sealant,
rubber mallet,
sharp knife,
clamps,
metal legs with holder
hex key.

All work can be done in 5 successive stages.

Stage 1

On the front side countertops, mark with a pencil. The markup will match your drawing. Each rounding is performed with a radius of at least 60 mm. This will prevent the edge from discoloring at sharp bends.

Stage 2

Now you need to give the appropriate shape to the countertop. To do this, use a jigsaw. When cutting, it is recommended to leave a small backlog of 2-3 mm. Pay attention to the direction of the jigsaw blade. It must have a reverse direction of the teeth. This will avoid chips on the plastic coating. Although partially they can be hidden by piping. To accurately bring the dimensions and shape of the countertop, it is necessary to work on the ends with a belt-type grinder.

Stage 3

In the third step, it's time to mill the groove. Milling is always performed strictly in the center of the end face. And this is even regardless of whether the edging will exactly match the thickness of the table top or will be large. If you do not have a cutter with the exact dimensions of the edge groove, then you can go several times with a cutter that has a lower tooth height.

Stage 4

When the groove is ready, you can start stuffing the edging. To do this, the end face is pre-coated silicone sealant. This will prevent water intrusion. Sealant is applied to the top edge of the edge. The edge itself is stuffed with a rubber mallet. The joint should be formed in the most inconspicuous place. When the stuffing is completed, it is important to make an exact docking of the piping. There is no way to do without a sharp knife. After that, you will need to remove the excess sealant around the entire perimeter of the countertop, which was formed when the edging was driven in.

When fixing countertops using clamps, it is important to use special gaskets. They are installed on the protruding edges of the edge and prevent their damage.

Stage 5

At the final stage, the legs are fixed. To do this, you should attach the molded holders to the underside of the tabletop. So that they are at the same distance, mark up with a pencil. From the edge of the leg should be at a distance of up to 10 cm. This holder is fixed with self-tapping screws 2.5 cm long with a countersunk head. Now it remains to make the final touch: fix the legs in the holder with a hex wrench. The dining table for the kitchen is ready!

As you can see, the table from the postforming tabletop is very simple and, most importantly, accessible for homemade at home. To do this, you need to have basic carpentry tools. But there are also dangers to be aware of here. If handled carelessly, there is a risk of breaking the holder, which is made of fragile material. But if you carefully operate such a table, it will last for many years.

The choice is yours

We have considered with you several options for how to make a kitchen table. There are other technologies for its manufacture. In most cases, everything will depend only on your financial capabilities and ingenuity.

Video

This video shows an example of making a rectangular kitchen table with rounded corners. Balusters are skillfully used as legs:

Many novice craftsmen are wondering how to assemble a kitchen table without instructions, spending the minimum amount of time on all the work. The simplest and fast option- use the finished tabletop and legs. Such a design for correct installation can last long enough. There are other options for kitchen tables: completely wooden, corner, folding. All of them are assembled according to the same principle.

Required tools and materials

Most often, when assembling a kitchen table, a furniture panel and laminated chipboard (laminated chipboard) are used. The main advantage of the first option is ease of use. On sale there is a shield made of pine, which is easily drilled and polished. To work with it, you do not need a workshop - you can assemble the table right at home. Shield furniture also has disadvantages. It has to be sanded to a flat surface and additionally treated with protective coatings - impregnation and varnish.

Particular attention should be paid to. The larger this parameter, the stronger the furniture will turn out. A thin tabletop without additional reinforcement can bend under the weight of objects. For the table, it is not recommended to buy a furniture board with a thickness of less than 3 cm.

Chipboard is a more difficult material to work with: chips can form during sawing, and an edge will need to be glued to all open cuts. It is easier for novice craftsmen to buy a finished chipboard tabletop of the right size or order sawing and gluing the edges when buying material at a hardware store. LDSP also has its advantages. These include a wide range of colors and a variety of textures.

To create a kitchen table, you will need furniture fittings - fixtures and ready-made supports. Sometimes a bar is additionally used. With its help, the deflection of furniture made from a shield is prevented. To do this, make a rectangular frame from a bar. This design is called the underframe. Its task is to distribute the tension that affects the corners of the furniture most of all. Then the tabletop is placed on the frame. The beam is also used as table legs.

Of the tools you may need a drill, screwdriver or screwdriver. The legs are often attached to the top of the table with self-tapping screws. Sometimes metal corners are used as fasteners.

Assembly preparation

The assembly instructions for the kitchen table are simple. The first stage is preparatory. It starts with . First you need to decide how many people the table will be designed for. One seat is about 60 cm. Thus, the length of a table for 4 people will be about 1.2 m. The width depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe kitchen. For small rooms, it can be 75-80 cm.

For professional assemblers, including tables, will depend on the type of construction. It is easier and faster to work with ready-made furniture supports. In this case, all work will consist of affixing marks for fasteners and installation. It is best to use adjustable legs. Such supports can be set to the desired height after leveling the countertop. These legs are suitable for those who have an uneven floor. In addition, you can make a table on two supports. They are sold in furniture fittings stores.

Assembly steps

Consider how to assemble a kitchen table with chrome legs. This option is simple and applicable to any countertop. To begin with, we will put marks for the subsequent screwing of the legs. Lean the mount against the countertop and mark the points for the screws with a pencil. After that, you need to screw the mount. To do this, you need a screwdriver or a screwdriver. Then, in the place of attachment, you need to mount the leg. It is easily screwed into a special hole in the center. Similar actions must be done with the rest of the supports.

A more difficult question is how to screw the legs to a wooden kitchen table. Such a design is going to be much more difficult, because you need to think about the types of connections.

The classic is strengthened with the help of a special underframe, which is a frame made of timber. The minimum height of each plank is 12 cm and the thickness is 3 cm.

If the legs are made of timber, then their cross section should not be less than 6x6 cm. Traditionally, the entire structure is assembled on a tenon-groove connection. Then, a metal corner is used to fasten the slats and legs. After that, proceed to the installation of countertops. It can be connected to the underframe with screws.

Features of the assembly of the corner structure

Corner table suitable for small kitchen. This model saves space and looks quite unusual. To construct a corner table, you will need a table top and 2 or 3 legs.

How to assemble a corner kitchen table (instruction and step by step guide):

Mark on furniture board the length and width of the future countertop (both parameters are measured from the corner). Connect the two resulting points with a straight line or arc. The cut of the table can also be made curvilinear.
Cut out the resulting figure with a jigsaw. Sand all edges with sandpaper.
Attach the leg to the tabletop and mark the attachment points.
Screw the legs to the top of the table with self-tapping screws.
If the corner table has only 2 legs, then for greater stability it can be additionally attached to the wall.

Another option to save space is to do, which will be a continuation corner kitchen. This design is multifunctional and easy to implement. The table can be used as an additional work surface or eat at it.

A small compact table is quite suitable for a small family. This applies to kitchen and dining tables. Things are completely different when guests arrive. In this case, sliding tables help out. When folded, this design takes up little space, and when unfolded, it increases the number of seats several times. Conveniently? Undoubtedly. Therefore, many home craftsmen are thinking about how to make a sliding table with their own hands.

Benefits of folding structures

A do-it-yourself sliding table for the kitchen or a compact design for other rooms have the following advantages:

First of all, it is space saving. This is especially true if the apartment is small in size or the room has a non-standard configuration. A folding table helps to save space in the children's room.
Low cost of the product (with self-manufacturing).
Versatility. Folding structures different types appropriate not only in the kitchen or living room, but also in the hallway, bedroom or nursery. Beautiful and comfortable furniture will harmoniously fit into the interior in any case.

Design features

A folding table, like a regular one, includes the following elements:

Tabletop.
Legs.
Mounts.

Helpful Hints:

The shape of the tabletop can be round or rectangular. In the first case, when unfolding, it takes the form of an oval.
The main requirements for furniture are a durable material for the tabletop, reliable fastening of the legs, as well as practicality and convenience.
The dimensions of the table are determined by the size of the room and the planned number of seats.
The number of seats is planned on the basis that the optimal space for one person at the table is 0.6-0.7 m.

Material selection

If you decide to make a table with your own hands, you need to consider the choice of materials. The aesthetic impression mainly comes from the countertop. It also needs to be practical. This is especially true in kitchens, because water, food residues or fat sometimes get on the table. Here are some material options.

Wood

Wood in terms of reliability is optimal, but it is quite expensive. It is also quite difficult for an inexperienced master to work with her.

Important! It is best to work with walnut, pine or oak wood. Before you start working, dry the material well and treat it with a special moisture-proof compound.

Chipboard

From a chipboard with a laminated coating with a thickness of 2 cm or more, a reliable, easy-to-manufacture countertop is obtained. The costs are minimal. The end parts of the plates are closed with a special border.

Important! If the table is made for the kitchen, an additional plastic cover is useful. The disadvantage of the material is that when water penetrates into the thickness of the chipboard, it swells. As for strength indicators, chipboard is able to compete with natural wood.

Legs can be bought ready-made or made independently from wooden beam with a section of 850x850 mm. The cross section of the legs can be round or square. The carved legs are beautiful. suitable for these purposes and metal pipes with a diameter of 7 to 9 cm - aluminum or steel.

List of required tools

Before you make a sliding table with your own hands, you need to prepare the necessary minimum of equipment and tools:

Bulgarian.
Hacksaw.
Electric jigsaw.
Screwdriver or drill with reverse.
Screwdriver.
Chisel.
Plane.
A hammer.
File.
Sandpaper.
For measurements and marking - ruler, tape measure, pencil.

How to make a sliding table yourself? The simplest option

A classic do-it-yourself sliding table involves an increase in the dimensions of the table top by pushing its surface and laying additional elements into the resulting void. The tabletop itself consists of two parts, which, if necessary, can move in opposite directions.

The main components of the sliding structure:

The basis.
Tabletop (from 2 halves).
Full roll out guides.
Auxiliary panels.

Here's what to keep in mind when preparing the main details:

The base is a frame that connects the legs to each other with jumpers (collets) and the top panel. The latter outwardly resembles a tabletop, but, unlike it, is fixed on legs.
Each half of the main tabletop has 3 sides fixed to the surface. For the manufacture of the sliding mechanism, standard full roll-out guides are used, which are used for drawers. You need to purchase 2 sets of guides. Their length is from 300 mm.
The width of the additional elements of the tabletop is equal to the main surface. Their length depends on how exactly the table will move apart. The number of additional elements varies at the request of the master from one to three.
The principle of sliding the structure is simple: both halves of the main tabletop move in opposite directions until they stop. In this case, the tabletop slides on the surface of the base. In the resulting space between the two parts are installed additional elements, which together with the main parts create the appearance of a solid countertop.

How to make a base?

The base of the table serves to fix the legs and provide support to the tabletop:

Legs made of wood are tied into a single structure with lintels.
The material for the manufacture of the tsarg is plywood or a board 1.8-2.0 cm thick and 10-12 cm wide. The choice of their length depends on the size of the table in a shifted form.
The drawers are fixed with the help of special grooves up to 2 cm deep, made in the upper part of the legs.
The joints of the jumpers with the legs are glued and additionally connected with screws.
For heavy structures additionally used "kerchiefs" made of wood.
A plywood sheet with a thickness of 1.0-1.2 cm is fixed over the frame. The size of the plywood surface depends on the dimensions of the frame. The sheet is fixed with screws.

Important! It is not necessary to use the top plywood sheet.

Main countertop

As already mentioned, it consists of 2 parts, cut to size. If necessary, they produce additional surface cladding and sealing of the end parts. At the place where the two halves are combined, holes of 8-10 mm are drilled from the ends for dowels.

How to assemble a sliding table - procedure:

A U-shaped box is made from sidewalls. It can be appropriately cut sheets of chipboard or a board.
With internal corners the box is fixed with aluminum corners.
On the inner sides of the sidewalls of the box, the reverse parts of the guides are fixed so that the box moves above the plywood base at a distance of about 0.2 cm (if the plywood sheet was not used, then above the surface of the tsarg).
A countertop is installed on top of the box so that the cut coincides with the ends of the box.
Both parts are interconnected with aluminum corners.
In the central part, on the surface of the plywood base or the upper end of the tsarg, an aluminum corner is installed (vertical side from 4 cm, length from 50 cm).
On the corner, wide (they are also the main) parts of the guides are fixed at the rate of 2 pcs on each side. Dock and snap both parts of the guides - wide and narrow.

How to build a countertop?

Both parts of the main tabletop are pushed apart as far as possible. Now it remains to take measurements and determine the dimensions of additional elements.