Do-it-yourself drainage of the site, how to drain the cottage from groundwater. Drainage in a summer cottage: the easiest way to protect against storm and melt water Closed drainage system in the country

20.11.2019

Planning to install suburban area drainage system, many owners cannot decide what is best to do: open surface drainage or closed. Let's see how the two systems differ. And also we will figure out how to make a simple country drainage with your own hands.

Building a simple site drainage system with your own hands is a simple task that even a novice master can do. Open surface drainage is the cheapest and most affordable option. It involves digging shallow ditches on the site. However, the surface system is only effective if it is possible to drain the collected water into a natural reservoir, ravine or hollow.

Surface drainage is equipped with open ditches, along the walls of which the flowing water is discharged outside the site.

The surface drainage system is divided into two subspecies:

point drainage - designed to remove moisture in those areas where there is an excess of it;
linear drainage - designed to remove precipitation from the entire territory of the site.

Laying an underground drainage system is more difficult and expensive. But with its help, you can not only divert storm water from the site, but also reduce the level of groundwater.

The main advantage of closed drainage is the ability to operate the system all year round, for example, to remove snow from a heated roof or water during thaws.

The simplest option for arranging closed drainage involves placing it not on a water-resistant layer, but a little higher in the ground. Thanks to this placement, water enters the system from all sides. To achieve the desired result, a closed backfilling of sand is performed around the drainage pipes. The layer thickness must be at least 7.5 cm.

When determining the type of drainage, it is worth considering:

Precipitation abundance: intensity and frequency of precipitation.
Features of the site: the presence of outbuildings, ponds, paths.
Terrain relief and configuration of water underground layers.

The arrangement of deep drainage, which involves the installation of manholes and the installation of a pipeline below the freezing level of the soil, is the most expensive at a price. If the summer cottage is planned to be used seasonally, it is not advisable to build such a system.

Options for arranging a surface system

Storm water inlets located throughout the territory collect water from downpipes, thereby preventing flooding. garden beds and the formation of puddles on garden paths.

Rain inlets are placed in places of the greatest accumulation of liquid

The storm water inlet is a small well, which is divided into two parts by a lattice partition. Getting into the first section, precipitation is cleared of heavy suspensions, after which it enters the second compartment. This solution minimizes the decay of stagnant dirty water and the appearance of bad smell.

To simplify the cleaning of the first compartment of the structure from debris, manufacturers equipped it with a special removable basket

Tip: in order to “disguise” the storm water well and minimize the risk of accidental falling into it, it is advisable to cover the structure with a metal grate.

Linear drainage

To lay a linear drainage system along the perimeter of the territory, ditches are dug, the walls of which are made at an angle of 30 ° so that water flows freely into the gutters. To simplify the task, the location of the ditches is planned so that the water does not flow in separate streams, but is collected in one or two streams. The place of water discharge is placed at the lowest point of the site or outside it. By installing a storage tank in this place, you can collect rain water for watering to provide plants with life-giving moisture during the dry period.

The width and depth of ditches in the arrangement of surface linear drainage averages 30x30 cm

To ensure that water flows by gravity into reservoirs or drainage wells, ditches are laid at an inclination of 3-4 cm per linear meter.

The inner walls of the ditches can be reinforced with broken bricks, pieces of slate or rubble. Where a storm drain intersects with walkways, inner walls it is desirable to lay out ditches with pipe trimmings. If possible, it is better to purchase special plastic trays, which are covered with decorative grilles from above.

After laying the channels, you need to check the efficiency of the system. To do this, at the top of the system, you need to pour a couple of buckets of water and observe how quickly it flows down and if there are any obstacles in the way. After making sure that the system is working, it remains only to cover the trenches with branches or rubble.

To prolong the life of the system, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of filtering the water before it enters the drain.

In the place where water flows into the drainage system, a container with sand is installed, through which it will seep. The contents of the container will have to be periodically cleaned and washed.

Removable gratings can be installed to catch large debris in ditches. They must be periodically removed and cleaned of silt settled on the walls and accumulated soil.

Building a closed system

Groundwater located close to the surface can be diverted by constructing a simple deep drainage. To do this, in places where water accumulates, depending on the proximity of groundwater, ditches are dug 0.5-1 meter deep.

The bottom of the trenches is lined with bundles of brushwood, the thickness of which in circumference is about 30 cm, or they are decorated with large pieces of broken brick or stone.

Smaller pieces are placed along the walls of the ditch. It is possible to protect the rocky layer from silting, thereby extending the life of the structure, by lining the bottom of the trench with inverted turf or moss.

Tip: instead of broken bricks, the walls of the trenches can be reinforced with large pieces of glass or pieces of plastic.

The formed trenches can only be sprinkled with a layer of soil and, if desired, decorated with plant compositions.

With drainage pipes

To create a more durable drainage system, a pipeline is laid from perforated drainage pipes.

When arranging a closed system drainage pipes placed at a depth of 30 cm at the places where the main lines are laid, and at a depth of up to half a meter at the points of moisture removal from the system into a ditch or ditch.

If the site is located in a flat area, the water flowing through the pipes is diverted to specially equipped shallow wells or decorative reservoirs created for this purpose.

The work is carried out in several stages:

Drawing up a project. At this stage, the places of accumulation of water are determined in order to correctly lay the main outlet line. Branches will approach the main pipeline, collecting moisture in the far corners of the site. Immediately determine the location of the drainage well and the point of discharge of excess - a nearby beam or reservoir.
Digging trenches. To ensure the smooth operation of the system, it is important to determine the direction of the natural slope of the site. You can find out by observing where the water flows during rainfall. When laying trenches, a slope of 2-3 cm is maintained for each linear meter towards the discharge point. First, the central channel is dug, and then the side "tributaries" are laid in increments of 4 meters.
Ditch construction. Having laid the entire trench network, they check whether moisture stagnates in it. If necessary, correct deficiencies. The bottom of the trenches is lined with a layer of crushed stone filling, not forgetting to control the slope with a level. Then perforated pipes from corrugation D63 mm are laid. They are sold already wrapped in a layer of geotextile - a non-woven fabric that acts as a filter. Having laid the drainage pipes with the holes down, they are wrapped with overlapping geotextiles. The pipeline is sprinkled with sand or fine gravel, forming a layer 20 cm thick.
Installation of manholes. In places where the direction of the pipeline changes and where pipes cross, manholes should be installed. Their role can be performed by crosses, which are equipped with special plugs.

All the remaining space between the walls of pipes, crosses and trenches is covered first with crushed stone, and then with excavated soil, and compacted tightly.

Video guide for arranging drainage in the country using drainage pipes:

As practice shows, the best option is a combination of open and closed drainage. To make such a drainage in the country with your own hands, without spending a significant amount on its arrangement, is quite realistic. The main thing is to choose the right direction of the trenches and correctly install the system, which will allow you to quickly drain water, preventing waterlogging of the site.

Let's make a reservation right away, drainage and waterproofing are different concepts and one of them does not exclude the other. Drainage around the house (drainage system) allows you to remove or reduce the level of water in the area.

The danger lies both from the outside (precipitation, flood waters) and from the inside (groundwater). Waterproofing protects the foundation of the building from water ingress.

But, even a foundation that is qualitatively isolated from water will not protect the foundation of a private house (basement) and the basement from water ingress for a long time. After all, if the water constantly pushes, it will find weaknesses in the waterproofing. And vice versa, if you take it away in time, your house or cottage will be safe.

When is a drainage system needed?

site location. The lower it is, the more urgent the problem of drainage;
soil quality - on clay and loamy soils, the water level decreases slowly;
rainfall in your area;
groundwater level;
deepening of other buildings on the site. If the adjacent building has a heavily buried foundation, the water will have nowhere to go, and it will accumulate on the surface, increasing the risk of flooding;
the presence of waterproof coatings - concrete paths, an asphalt yard - these are places inaccessible to water penetration.

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house will eliminate the problems caused by the factors listed above.

Types of drainage systems

Depending on the severity of the problem of flooding the site, there are several ways to make drainage around a private house.

Surface drainage

This type includes storm sewers (storm sewers). The advantage of such drainage is that its arrangement is simpler and accessible after most types of work on the site have been completed. Surface drainage systems allow you to divert only rain and melt water, cope with ground water they are unable to.

There are two types of surface drainage devices: linear and point.

Linear drainage

It is focused on the removal of storm or melt water from the entire site and from the house, in particular. Water flows into channels dug in the ground and is discharged into a drainage well. As a rule, the channels have a straight linear shape and are closed with gratings.

Point drainage

Designed for quick drainage of water generated from local sources (eg under roof gutters, watering taps, etc.). Point drains are covered with decorative metal gratings to prevent clogging of the channel with debris and leaves. From each point, drainage pipes are laid, which are connected to the main main pipe leading to the drainage well.

Combined drainage combines the two systems mentioned above: point and line drainage.

According to the method of the device, the drainage can be open and closed.

open drainage

A system of trenches, gutters, drains or catchment trays.

Such a drainage is a trench, which is designed to drain storm and melt water from the house and from the site.

The principle of the open drainage system

A ditch up to half a meter wide and 50-60 cm deep is dug along all sides of the site and around the house. All these trenches are connected to a common drainage trench.

In order for the water to flow freely into the trench from the side of the house in the ditch, a bevel is made at an angle of 30 °, and the slope towards the main water intake trench (or drain well) will allow water to be drained by gravity in the right direction.

plus open system drainage can be called low cost and high speed of work. But if a withdrawal is required a large number melt and rain water, then you will have to arrange a deep drainage line into which someone can fall. The unfinished walls of the ditches are collapsing. Such a system spoils the appearance of the site.

It is possible to increase the service life and increase the safety of such a system through the use of special trays (made of plastic or concrete), which are closed with bars from above.

Closed drainage

It has a more aesthetic appearance compared to the previous one, as it is equipped with a protective grill, but the receiving ditch is much narrower and smaller. Their views are shown in the photo.

Backfill drainage - a system of backfilled trenches

It is used in the case when the area of the site is small, and it is impossible or impractical to make open drainage. The disadvantage of this system is the inability to carry out maintenance of the trench after the arrangement without dismantling.

Proper drainage around this type of house is arranged in several stages.

a trench is dug to a depth of about a meter with the obligatory observance of a slope towards the drain (drainage) well;

geotextile is laid at the bottom of the trench;

the trench is covered with gravel, crushed stone, etc.;

a layer of turf is laid on top. This stage is optional, but allows you to give the site a more aesthetic appearance.

deep drainage

The disposal of a large amount of groundwater requires the construction of a solid system - deep drainage of the site. The device of a deep drainage system is used in areas with clay soil located in a lowland and characterized by a high level of groundwater.

The device process is laborious and consists in laying pipes (the diameter depends on the amount of water removed) from perforations into deep trenches (depending on the height of the soil water).

Closed drainage - pipe system

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

Step-by-step instructions for a closed-type drainage device

Determine the location of the closed drainage system, which can be implemented in two versions:

pass only near the foundation, i.e. around the house (wall drainage), preventing the penetration of water directly into the house.
located throughout the site, thus the basement of the cottage, as well as plantings and other outbuildings, will be protected.

The drainage scheme around the house is shown in the photo

Mark the location of the drainage ditches on the site. Usually, devices such as a laser rangefinder and a level are used for this. But, you can make it easier, trace where the grooves of water remain after the rain - drainage trenches should be laid there.

Dig trenches. When digging, be sure to observe the height difference. After all, water should flow to the drainage well, and not accumulate in the pipes.

Advice. To check the "workability" of the trench, it is better to wait for heavy rain and see if there are any places where there is a significant accumulation of water.

Lay a layer of geotextile. Its role in drainage is to filter the water of impurities that can clog the perforation of the drainage pipe.

Advice. If you have clay soil - geofabric is required, if crushed stone or sand, then it is not necessary.

You can take any geotextile, the main thing is that it passes and filters water well. It is better not to take dense needle-punched geotextiles, because. it does not pass water well.

Fill the bottom (bottom) of the trench with gravel.

Lay a perforated pipe - the basis of the drainage system. Pipes can be ceramic or plastic. But in any kind of pipes there must be perforation for receiving water (perforation can be done independently, using a drill). The pipes are connected to each other by means of a cross or a tee. The material was prepared for the site www.site

Advice. The pipe perforation should be smaller than the size of the smallest particle of gravel.

Bring the ends of the pipe into the manholes. Such wells are installed at all turns in order to be able to take care of the system. For example, clean the pipe with water pressure or evaluate the change in water level.

Advice. Collecting pipes over a large area of the site must converge into a main pipe (with a diameter of more than 100 mm.), Which will carry the collected water to the drainage well.

Bring the ends of the pipe into the drainage well. This is the last component of a closed drainage system.

According to their functional purpose, drainage wells are divided into two types:

accumulating. This well has a sealed bottom. Water accumulates in it and is then used for irrigation;
absorbing. A well without a bottom, the water in it gradually sinks into the soil.

Fill the geofabric with crushed stone without reaching the top level of the ground 200mm.
Cover drainage pipes with crushed stone to a height of 300mm.
Wrap the pipes with overlapping geotextile and fix the joints with a rope.
Fill in sand, earth and/or lay sod.

Advice. A surface drain can be installed on top of a closed system ( storm system) and also bring it to the drainage well.

Finished drainage system in the context is shown in the photo

Conclusion

Which of the listed types of drainage is right for you can be determined only by knowing the features of the site. In general, you should choose the drainage around the house, the cost of the arrangement and operation of which is the lowest, and of course, which you can do yourself. At the same time, it must qualitatively and reliably perform the role of a drainage system. Indeed, according to experts, proper drainage around the house will extend its life by more than 50 years.

If excess water collects on your site, you need to take some measures to divert it. Otherwise, you will not only lose the opportunity to equip lush flower beds and gardens, but also endanger the foundation of your home. A drainage device in such a situation is a great way out, and this article will tell you how to bring this idea to life, saving not only on materials, but also on time.

Drainage preparation

Before installing drainage in the country with your own hands, you need to clearly understand what you want to achieve, how you want to see the result. Therefore, it is very important to have a clear picture of the future system in front of your eyes.

Take measurements of your site and decide at what depth you will lay the drainage (the depth will depend on the height of the drainage "well", as it will be higher than other structural elements).

Traditional French drainage is a trench filled with gravel, which is separated from the ground by a geotextile (it is needed so that the earth does not mix with gravel, it also passes water well and does not allow weeds to germinate). Gravel and geotextile allow moisture to soak into the soil faster, distributing it throughout the area where they are located, rather than collecting in one place. When arranging such drainage, they often use corrugated pipes with longitudinal holes on one side, for example, PVC.

As a drainage "well", which should be located at the end of the system, you can take a 200 l plastic drum (barrel) with holes in the walls and bottom. It is located on a cushion of gravel 8-10 cm thick, and a wall is also “built” around it from gravel 15 cm thick.

Holes should be made in the 200l drum (top). They will serve as additional slots for water to enter it, and one of them will become the installation site for the second drain grate, which will be discussed later. Two or three 5 cm holes will suffice. It is also necessary to make one large hole on the wall from above for the pipe (see photo).

Another element is a water collection tank. Its width should be about 30x30cm. It is desirable that it be equipped with a drain grate, especially when French drainage is provided by a downpipe. By connecting the pipe to the tank, you ensure that clean water enters the system (no silt or other debris that can pass through the grate).

In order to make drainage with your own hands, you do not need to spend much money. The most expensive item you will buy is likely to be a catchment tank, and the cheapest is a pipe. As for gravel, it will need about 2 m3 (1-2 cm granules). You will also need geotextile.

trench digging

Dig a trench, on both sides of which there will be a "well" and a reservoir. In place for the first, the pit should be 10-15 cm deeper than in the rest of the trench.

Calculate the depth depending on the height of the drainage “well” (after installing it and filling it with gravel, no more than 15 cm should remain between the second and the ground).

Preparation of the drainage "well"

Use a 2-3 cm drill to turn the sides and bottom of the "well" into "Swiss cheese".

And on the wall from above, cut a hole in size suitable for the diameter of the pipe, and also install the base for its fastening.

trench filling

Line the trench with geotextile for drainage.

This will prevent silt and dirt from getting in and mixing with the gravel. It will also provide better absorption of moisture by the earth. An 8-10 cm gravel pad should only be made in the area where the 200L drum will be placed.

Install it. Pour some gravel around. Make sure the barrel is not moving.

The top of the sump should be placed at ground level - just below the asphalt, so if necessary (if you need to raise the tank a little) you can install it on a thin bed of gravel.

Place gravel around it, make sure it is immobilized.

Connect the drainage "well" and the water collector to the pipe. Remember, the holes in the pipe should look down, and the pipe itself should be sloped. Fill the trench with gravel, as shown in the photo, until there is 15 cm between the ground and the gravel. Then install the drain grate on the barrel.

On this, the drainage at the summer cottage is not finished. Wrap the geofabric in such a way that the end on one side lies on the other - lying opposite, overlapping.

Backfilling with earth

Filling the recess with earth is the final stage. You can also put already sprouted lawn grass in this place.

Now you know how to make drainage with your own hands in just a week or even faster, without spending a lot of effort and money. Similarly, you can independently make drainage around the house.

Do-it-yourself drainage on the site: photo, video instruction

How to make drainage with your own hands? See photos and videos of creating drainage on the site with your own hands. On our website you will learn everything about the device of drainage at home. How to make drainage around the house yourself? Diagram of the drainage system.

Drainage at their summer cottage: the easiest way to remove excess moisture

A fairly important hydraulic operation is considered to be drainage in a summer cottage. The easiest way to improve water balance soil must be mandatory, because the ratio of moisture in different periods of the year can change not only due to natural factors. Sometimes even a nearby construction site can upset the balance.

Uncomplicated system for draining water from the building

Channels of open and closed type

Soil drainage can be carried out using open trenches or specialized pipes placed in the ground. The first of them are simple in design, but do not look very aesthetically pleasing. In this regard, some developers create closed-type channels that do not violate the attractiveness of the landscape.

Outdoor drainage around a residential building using trays and gratings

surface lines

Although surface collection systems are relatively simple, they effectively remove moisture from the site in the form of precipitation. Through special trays and depressions, water is directed to the central gutter or drain well. Among the advantages can be distinguished:

high speed of construction;
small costs;
sufficient level of efficiency;
ease of cleaning.

Drainage trench at the edge of a suburban area

Closed drains

Depth line systems are ideal for both stormwater and groundwater in close proximity. Most often they are arranged using polymer pipes, which are immersed in the ground for a certain distance.

Closed piping system designed for spot collection of moisture

In practice, two types of drainage with closed channels are well applicable:

point (water is collected in one place);
linear (moisture collection is provided throughout the pipeline through special holes).

Note! Within the same area, the presented species can be combined. For example, for drainage system at home, you can use point collection, and for groundwater - linear.

Drainage well for a deep system from a pipe with a large diameter

Drainage at the dacha: the easiest way to device for specific conditions

Before you make a drainage system on the site, you must choose its type, based on operational features. It is worth considering the most optimal options for arranging water drainage systems, which are popular under certain conditions.

Construction of a drainage system from the foundation of the house is underway

An example of site drainage with a high groundwater level

With a close occurrence of groundwater the best option can become a deep system of a linear type. It will remove moisture from the entire site to a sewer, ravine or ditch located one level below. It is proposed to use perforated plastic pipes in the geotextile filter as the main elements.

Special pipeline with perforation and geotextile

One of the most simple ways drainage in a summer cottage with groundwater located near the surface is reduced to the following scheme:

A trench breaks out to the distance of soil freezing. Its slope should be 2 cm per linear meter towards the liquid collection point. For leveling, a layer of sand is poured.
Geotextiles are spread on the prepared bottom so that its edges overlap the walls of the pit by at least 1-2 m. A small layer of gravel is poured on top.
Next, plastic pipes are laid, after which they are again covered with approximately the same layer of gravel. The ends of the geotextile roll up to form a protective barrier. The rest of the trench is covered with soil.

Visual diagram of closed-type drainage with linear collection

At high GWL, the drainage system takes on a tree-like form.

Septic tank for a summer residence with a high GWL. A separate material provides information on the construction of septic tanks at high GWL, installation and operating rules.

Do-it-yourself open drainage device on a site with clay soil

For land with clay soil, a system with an open channel arrangement is more suitable. At closed system pipelines, water will not be able to seep through such soil and go to specialized septic tanks or other suitable places.

Land works for the drainage system are underway

In places where water accumulates, ditches are dug with a depth of at least 50 cm. Their width should increase as they approach the place of reception. It is necessary to make the widest trench, which collects water from the ditches adjacent to it. To facilitate draining and protect the edges from collapse, the side walls are cut at an angle of 30 degrees.

Since the open view of the trenches spoils the appearance of the site, it is necessary to decorate them. It not only allows you to increase the aesthetic properties, but also to strengthen the side surfaces of open lines. In this regard, the operation of the system is significantly increased.

The process of decorating open channels with stone

Stones of various sizes can be used as material for decorating pits. The largest of them should be laid on the bottom, and medium and small - on top. If there are good financial opportunities, the surface can be covered with marble chips, which will give the branch lines a respectable look.

If money is tight, then regular brushwood can be a good option for decoration. It is necessary to find dry branches of any wood species that grow nearby. They should be tied in bunches and laid on special stands installed at the bottom of the ditch.

Lines in the invisible part of the site can be reinforced with ordinary slate

The thickness of the bunches of brushwood should be no more than 30 cm. It is better to place the branches so that the larger ones lie in the center, and the smaller ones at the edges.

Drainage system around the house. Drainage device, nuances of carrying out installation work and useful advice in a special publication of our online magazine.

Average prices for turnkey site drainage

Many companies offer professional drainage services, but they don't come cheap. During the work, a double-walled pipe with a geotextile filter will be used.

The pipeline is connected to a plastic well

Drainage at their summer cottage: the easiest way to drain water

A fairly important hydraulic operation is considered to be drainage in a summer cottage. The easiest way and why it is so important, we will analyze in detail in this review.

Do-it-yourself site drainage: technology for deep and surface options

Excessive humidity brings a lot of trouble to the owners of summer cottages and suburban areas. The first signs of the phenomenon are stagnant puddles, which can “please” their existence for several days, or even weeks. If you can put up with them, then other manifestations high humidity: the soaking of plants and trees on the site, the destruction of the foundation of buildings, are far from being so harmless. If the land ownership is in a lowland or the level of groundwater is high, do not despair, you need to drain the site yourself.

To remove excess moisture, a drainage system is used, which can be done in two ways. Distinguish between superficial and deep drainage. The first is used to drain water from the territory that accumulates after seasonal floods or heavy rainfall.

The second is designed to reduce soil moisture by diverting groundwater. In general, the type of drainage is selected depending on the condition of the site and the requirements of its owner. Despite the significant difference between the types of drainage, each of them can be performed independently.

Design and construction of surface drainage

Surface drainage systems can be of two types: linear and point. The latter are intended to drain water from small isolated areas on the territory. Special point drainage water intakes are placed in places where water accumulates. These can be areas under drains, at the bottom of terraces, in relief depressions, at entry areas, etc. Such a system is considered the simplest and does not require a special scheme.

Point drainage water intakes are placed in places where water accumulates

More difficult to design and install is linear drainage. It is used to remove moisture from buildings, protect paths and driveways from water, prevent the fertile soil layer on the site from being washed away, etc. The structure is a specially designed system of shallow trenches, laid at a certain angle, which runs along the perimeter of the site and in places of maximum accumulation of water.

Before starting work, a site drainage project is drawn up, which implies the presence of a main trench to collect moisture flowing into the ditches. It should end in a water intake, which can be a storm sewer or a ravine. In the design process, it is necessary to consider all places of moisture stagnation and lay trenches from them to the main drainage system.

It is also necessary to correctly calculate the slope of the structures, otherwise the water will not flow down them. Minimum slope drainage in sandy soils should be at least 0.003, in clay soils - 0.002. The water intake must be located below the level of linear drainage. Practice shows that the best result is obtained with a slope ranging from 0.005 to 0.01. To equip the surface drainage of the site with your own hands, you can use two methods:

Open. Assumes the presence of open trenches dug according to the drainage pattern. The walls of structures are usually formed at an angle of 30 °, which allows water to flow into the ditch without problems. The width of the structure is 0.5 m and the depth is 0.7 m. The main advantage of the system is its simplicity in execution. A serious drawback is an unaesthetic appearance that spoils the impression of the site. In addition, the unreinforced walls of the trench quickly crumble and the structure becomes unusable.

Crushed stone filling prevents the destruction of the trench, but at the same time reduces its throughput

Important: To solve the problem of crumbling walls of the drainage trench, crushed stone dumping can be used. To do this, the lower part of the groove is covered with coarse gravel, and the upper part with a finer fraction. From above, the structure can be covered with turf. Such a drainage device on the site helps prevent soil slippage and save the trench, but at the same time seriously reduces its throughput.

Closed. It consists in the use of special drainage trays, which are laid directly into the trenches, and are closed with gratings from above. The structures protect the grooves from slipping the soil, the gratings prevent debris from getting inside the drainage structure. Trays can be concrete, polymer concrete or plastic, which are considered the most popular today due to their low weight and exceptional durability.

The grate covering the tray can be made of metal or plastic

Deep drainage system: subtleties of design and installation

Deep drainage is designed to reduce soil moisture. For the system to work effectively, it must be located below the level of groundwater. In its determination, the help of a specialist will definitely be required, since it is impossible to do it on your own. It is necessary to order surveyors a detailed plan of the site, on which the level of the aquifer should be marked, which will allow an accurate design of the structure.

It happens that the drainage system on the site is needed only to ensure the vital activity of plants suffering from excess moisture. In this case, you can use a simplified calculation option. Average values are used to determine the depth of the drains. Pipes can be located at around 0.6 to 1.5 m. You need to know that for fruit trees it will be 1.5, for forest - 0.9, for lawns, flower beds and flower beds - about 0.9 m. In areas with peat soils, deeper trenches should be equipped, since such soils settle very quickly. The depth of the drains will vary from 1 to 1.6 m.

For the arrangement of the drainage system used special pipes with perforation. Initially, asbestos-cement or ceramic structures were used, which today have given way to plastic ones. Drains are pipes with a diameter of 50 to 200 mm, equipped with a network of holes with a diameter of 1.5 to 5 mm. Some models may be equipped with a special filter shell that prevents debris from entering the openings. Plastic pipes are durable, lightweight, and very easy to install.

In order to equip the deep drainage of a summer cottage with your own hands, you should first of all draw up a project that will reflect the depth of the drainage pipes and show where they will pass. As in the case of a surface drainage system, it is assumed that there is a main trench that collects moisture from all secondary pipes and ends in a water intake: a gutter, a pond or a special storage well.

Perforated pipes for deep drainage are laid on a bed of sand and gravel

In the process of installing a drainage system, there are several stages:

trench equipment. In the places marked in the project, we dig channels with a width of about 40 cm. The depth of the structure can be different, it depends on the level of groundwater. A sand cushion is laid out at the bottom, and a layer of rubble is laid on top of it, on top of which a drainage pipe is placed. In some cases, it can be wrapped with geotextile to protect the holes from possible clogging.

Installation of manholes. To control the drainage process and the necessary cleaning of the system, special wells are installed. They can be made of reinforced concrete rings, but if the depth at which the drainage is laid does not exceed 3 m, corrugated pipes of different diameters are used. Structures must be equipped with covers to prevent various debris from entering them. On a straight line, wells are placed every 35-50 m and after one turn with a winding trench.

Wells are located at the corners of the trench and every 35-50 m in a straight line

Backfilling of the building. The drain is covered with layers of rubble and sand. Some guides explaining how to drain a site suggest separating the sand from the gravel with geotextiles to prevent them from mixing. The laid pipe, together with the crushed stone-sand cushion, should not occupy more than half the height of the trench. The remaining space is filled with compacted loam and the top layer of fertile soil. Ideally, the area under which the drainage pipes are located should not be highlighted.

Thinking about how to make drainage on the site, you need to know that this work can be done independently. The main thing is to determine the type of system that is necessary for draining the soil, to carry out a competent project and to correctly assemble the structure. Then it will be possible to forget forever about the troubles caused by excessive moisture on the site.

Do-it-yourself drainage of the site - step technology devices

Everything about do-it-yourself site drainage - types of drainage systems, their design, arrangement and installation stages of a deep system and surface drainage. Video with an example of work.

How to competently make the drainage of a garden plot with your own hands: we analyze the correct arrangement technology

Some owners of private houses, garden plots are faced with the problem of soil flooding as a result of precipitation or groundwater exposure. To avoid such a situation, a drainage system is installed over the entire area that absorbs and removes excess moisture.

Make drainage garden plot anyone can do it by hand without spending a lot of money.

Prerequisites for the construction of a drainage system

A drainage system that collects and drains excess groundwater is necessary in the following cases:

The plot is flat, i.e. there are no conditions for spontaneous movement of water downhill.
Groundwater is marked at a level close to the earth's surface.
The site is located in a lowland, river valley or in a swampy drained area.
The soil-vegetative layer develops on clay soils with low filtration properties.
The cottage is built on a slope, not far from its foot, which is why when precipitation falls on the site and around it, water accumulates and stagnates.

Installation of drainage is almost always necessary in areas with clay soils underlying the soil: sandy loam, loam. During the period of heavy rainfall, snowmelt, this type of rock passes water through its thickness too slowly or does not allow it to pass at all.

Water stagnation at the level of soil development is associated with its waterlogging. In a humid environment, the fungus actively reproduces, infections, pests (slugs, snails, etc.) appear, which leads to diseases of vegetable crops, rotting of the roots of bushes, perennial flowers and trees.

If you do not solve the problem with waterlogging of the soil, then over time, erosion of the earth may occur. In frosty times, the soil layers containing water will swell, which may damage the foundation, paved paths and other site improvement facilities.

To check whether drainage is necessary, you need to find out the throughput of the soil layers on the site. To do this, dig a small hole 60 cm deep and pour water into it to the limit.

If the water is absorbed in a day, then the soil underlying the soil has acceptable filtration properties. In this case, there is no need for drainage. If after two days the water does not leave, it means that clayey rocks lie under the soil-vegetative layer, and there is a risk of waterlogging.

If the drainage system is not implemented in a timely manner, then the following problems threaten country estates:

flooding of cellars, basements, additional buildings located below ground level - this subsequently leads to damage to wall materials, the formation of mold and fungi, decay of furniture, stairs and other wooden structures;
swamping of the soil due to its saturation with moisture, which leads to low yields, rotting of the roots of vegetable crops, plants, death of trees and other plantations;
dips, depressions, pits can form on the site, as a result of which paved paths and tiles are destroyed - all this negatively affects the landscape of the backyard territory.

AT winter period when the PRS and the heaving soils underlying it, which lie above the level of seasonal freezing, freeze, the water contained in the pores of the earth will expand. An increase in the volume of soil threatens the destruction of structures buried in it and resting on the ground.

Consider the types of drainage systems and their features.

Main types of drainage systems

Before starting to draw up a work plan, purchase equipment and materials, it is necessary to determine which system it is advisable to implement so that it works as efficiently as possible.

There are three types of drainage systems:

surface (open) - is a ditch on the surface of the earth, used to remove excess moisture formed due to private rains or melting snow;
deep (closed) - water is drained using a system of pipes, wells; the system is used in case of a risk of flooding the garden with precipitation and / or groundwater;
backfill - the principle of its construction is the same as deep, only drainage material without pipes is used; suitable for draining areas during rainfall.

Each of the above technologies has its own advantages and disadvantages.

The surface drainage network is often combined with storm sewer that collects and removes atmospheric precipitation. Stormwater is equipped with two types of water collectors: point and linear.

Stormwater as an addition to drainage

Storm sewer - a set of drainpipes with a well for the accumulation of moisture, through which it is transferred to the water intake. Before the water enters the well, there is a special siphon partition (grille) designed to clean the incoming liquid from debris, as a result of which the system does not clog, and there is no unpleasant odor in it.

Storm water sewer system with linear type water collectors is a series of trays located at a slope towards the place of moisture collection. Tanks are installed in ditches with a layer of gravel at the bottom. The technology is used when the slope of the day surface of the site does not exceed 30 degrees relative to the horizon.

The main difference between a point system and a linear one is that the point system uses a pipe system located underground. Water is collected through the so-called "points" - special storm drains equipped with a permeable grate. This solution makes the structure almost invisible on the site.

Sometimes one type of system is not enough for an area, so they can be combined to maintain an optimal level of moisture.

You need to choose the type of system individually, taking into account landscape, geological features. For example, if the house is located away from a body of water, then you can limit yourself to open drainage. If the mansion is located on a landslide-prone slope in the river valley, then it is better to apply several systems at the same time.

Closed type drainage device

The closed system is a network of trenches in which pipes and drainage material are laid. Drainage can be laid both over the entire area and in a specific area that needs drainage.

The deep drainage system consists of the following elements:

drainage pipes;
well (drainage);
water pump.

To implement the system, it is necessary to dig trenches, install pipes, and build drainage systems.

To equip a water pipe in a trench, you will need:

The system is effectively used in case of flooding of the site with groundwater.

Drawing up a layout of elements

Before carrying out work, it is necessary to draw up a site plan, noting housing, domestic and household facilities, as well as shrubs, trees, flower beds.

Then you need to draw up a layout of trenches. There are 4 main types of schemes:

the location of the snake;
parallel device;
laying drains with a herringbone;
trapezoidal arrangement.

You can choose the scheme yourself, but the herringbone markup is most often used.

Ditches can be placed along the perimeter of the territory and along the contour of the house. On the site where vegetables and flowers will grow, a network is being built taking into account the requirements, which will be discussed below.

Technical requirements for installation

When constructing a trench, the following requirements must be considered:

the depth should be 1-1.2 m, and the width should be 35-40 cm;
near trees, a trench is dug to a depth of 1.2-1.5 m, near forest plantations - by 70-90 cm, near flower beds - by 60-80 cm;
if peat soil prevails at the level of the PRS of the site, then, given that it quickly shrinks, the depth of the trench should not be less than a meter;
if the site is relief, then the depth can reach a meter, if it is gentle or with a slight slope, then digging a trench with a depth of less than 1.5 m is inefficient;
on clay soils: sandy loam, loam, trenches are dug at a distance of 7-10 m from each other, on well-drained: sands, gravel and gravel deposits - at 15-20 m;
the drainage system should be located more than 1 meter from the foundation of the house, and the minimum allowable distance to the fence is 50 cm.

For the construction of an open drainage system, special pipes with a mesh should be selected. Their diameter can vary from 0.15 to 0.5 cm. It is better to refuse the use of asbestos-cement or ceramic drains, since they are impractical, require preliminary preparation, frequent washing, and quickly become clogged.

For the installation of closed drainage branches, it is recommended to give preference to perforated pipes made of polymer or composite materials. Some modifications are equipped with a special filter shell (geotextile), which prevents the system from clogging.

The collector diameter must be larger than the pipe diameter. If the area of the site to be developed is more than 0.5 ha, then the diameters can be equal.

The slope of the system towards the collector should be 2-3 mm for each meter of pipe with a diameter of 5-10 cm. If a larger diameter pipe is planned, then the slope should be less.

Owners of land in a lowland or on a steep slope face the problem when water stagnates at the lowest point, when the receiving water can be located higher. In this case, in the lower part of the territory it is necessary to build a storage well, into which it is necessary to introduce a drainage pump. With its help, water is pumped up and discharged into a ditch, ravine or other water receiver.

Progress in the construction of the system

The first thing to do before digging a trench is to build a drainage well. Its depth should be 2-3 m, and the diameter - up to 1 meter.

The most reliable well is concrete. However, it is not always possible to install concrete rings manually, so you will have to resort to the help of lifting equipment. In addition, high cost and fragility are disadvantages of concrete structures.

Plastic well - a special design made of polyethylene, polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride, is practical and of high quality, effectively withstands ground pressure. The advantage of a reservoir well is that it provides pipe bends, and rubber cuffs are included in the package to ensure the tightness of the connections.

You can also pave a brick well on your own, make a structure out of rubber and other improvised materials.

A drainage pump is subsequently installed in the well, which pumps water into the drainage system - a sewer, well or other natural water intake.

To prevent clogging of conventional plastic pipes use the so-called "external" filters made of straw, fibrous peat, weaving waste.

After digging trenches, perform the following steps.

The trench is covered with sand by 10 cm, after which the geotextile layer is settled so that the edges of the canvas are higher than the recess.
Geotextiles are covered with crushed stone by 20 cm.
Lay drainage pipes.
Pipes are covered with gravel or crushed stone of sedimentary rocks to a height of 30-40 cm, then with coarse or gravelly sand 30 cm.
The geotextile is rolled up - it will hold small particles and allow the system to become clogged.
Geotextiles are sprinkled on top with a fertile layer of earth - soil.
The pipes are connected to the well.

The technology for designing a backfill drainage system differs from a deep one in that it does not provide pipes. The trenches are filled with large rubble or broken bricks, covered with small stones or gravel on top.

Open circuit implementation

To create surface systems, the same rules for constructing a trench are used as for the implementation of a deep one.

For an open system, it is enough to build ditches 0.7 m deep and 0.5 m thick. The walls are made with a slope, the bevel angle is 30 degrees. The ditch is taken out to the sewer, which is common to the plots or to any other water intake.

The walls of open drainage ditches are compacted, sometimes reinforced with cobblestone or rubble stone, laid out with concrete tiles.

Extending the life of the drain

A backfill type drainage system is able to function effectively for 5-7 years, while both deep and open drainage structures with high-quality pipes make it possible to forget about the problem of waterlogging for 50 years. But this is possible under the condition of periodic maintenance of the network.

There are 4 rules for caring for the system.

On the site where the pipes are located, large-sized equipment should not pass - the road for it should be laid separately.
Regular loosening of the earth will improve its water permeability, which will ensure Good work systems.
Once every 2-3 years, pipes should be flushed under strong water pressure, cleaning them from clay particles and rust.
Earthwork for installation should be carried out on damp ground.

Fulfilling simple tips, can extend the life of the equipment and avoid repair.

Installation of drainage into the ground relieves owners of land acres from many problems. By installing a drainage system, you can not worry about the condition of the crops, the general appearance of the site with increasing humidity.

Do-it-yourself drainage of a garden plot: options and technology

How to make drainage of a garden plot with your own hands, what kind of drainage system to choose, how to put it into practice. Helpful Hints, schemes, recommendations of experts.

Modern arrangement of land plots begins with the creation of a drainage system, which is a reliable protection against excess water, moisture, dampness. Hiring specialists for this purpose is considered very costly, although necessary. However, the entire process of installing drainage can be done by hand. How to choose the right equipment? What are the types of drainage? And what are their features? About these and many other nuances of the drainage system, read further in the article.

Choosing a system for drainage of the site with your own hands

Many owners ignore the moment of installation of the drainage system, but subsequently encounter such problems as:

flooded basements;
dampness of the walls in the house;
destruction of the foundation;
swamp in the yard;
destruction of the landscape area;
oversized accumulation of precipitation, etc.

But before you come to grips with the creation and installation of drainage, you need to examine the land plot intended for work, and clarify:

groundwater level;
geological properties of the territory;
determine the chemical state of groundwater, identify whether they are pressurized or not;
identify the physical features of the dominant soils, whether they have filtration properties.

Based on the research results obtained, the most suitable type of drainage system should be selected.

Types of drainage system

Conventionally, the drainage system is divided into two types - surface and deep, which in turn have derivatives, subtypes. So, surface drainage is the most budgetary, simple option, which is used even in areas with slopes. This type is intended for the removal of water flowing from buildings, roofs. In turn, it is linear and point. To improve the productivity of the system, these two types are harmoniously combined.

The linear drainage system consists of special trays that are placed in earthen pits dug around the perimeter. This device should be located with a slope, towards the catchment well. The upper part of this design is closed with bars. They do not interfere with the movement of either people or vehicles. Linear drainage is capable of passing a large volume of water, while one of the disadvantages of such equipment is an unattractive appearance.

A point drainage system is used in specific places where the collection of excess water is most often required. The main task of such equipment is considered to be the redirection of precipitation to a common sewer pit. This type of drainage can function as a separate part of the system, or be an addition to any other type of drainage. Do-it-yourself channels of closed and open drainage are installed in areas with a high level of groundwater, and in areas dominated by clay soil.

The deep drainage system is designed to reduce the level of groundwater, as well as to neutralize excess moisture in the soil after heavy, prolonged rains. This drainage device is divided into types according to design features. Read more about the types of deep drainage in the table.

Varieties of deep drainage
Horizontal	A fairly common type of drainage, which consists of perforated pipes laid to a depth of 1 - 1.5 m, and is distinguished by the simplicity of the installation process. According to the design, drains in such an installation are collected along the entire length of the trays and move downhill to the collector. The lower part of the horizontal ditches is formed from crushed stone, which is pre-enveloped with geotextile fiber.
Vertical	This type of drainage is some kind of earthen mines, which are equipped with special drainage stations, with pumps. Vertical drainage is a rather complex structure, which consists of complex calculations and requires special skills in operation, so non-professionals rarely turn to this type.
Combined	The combination of horizontal and vertical drainage, as practice shows, brings good results. However, the construction of this type of installation requires specialized engineering intervention and considerable financial costs, so such structures are extremely rare in suburban areas.

Features of the storm drainage system

A storm drainage system is a device that allows you to insure any buildings from destruction due to washing away the foundation with excessive precipitation. The design of the stormwater consists of:

drainpipes;
water intakes;
drainage gutters;
linear drainage trays.

The main condition for the creation of this system is to provide a slope during the formation of drainage lines, due to which the water will move under a natural stop to the collection points, water intakes. Installation locations for stormwater equipment can be garden paths, the entire perimeter of the yard, the entrance to the garage, etc.

Before you start installing the drainage system, you need to draw up a plan for the yard and buildings, on the basis of which to calculate the amount required material. In order to form a storm drainage system on the site, the owners need to prepare:

trays that are intended for installation around the perimeter of the foundation;
spacers that are installed around the gutters;
storm water inlets;
pipes with fittings for external sewerage;
geotextile material;
sand traps;
concrete mortar.
rubble, sand.

Of the construction tools, there should be a level and a tape measure, a shovel, a rope and fittings for marking the site, a container for preparing a solution, a bucket. Consider one of the options for creating a linear storm with your own hands, without revision wells.

Channels are dug around the house, the distance from the foundation to them should be more than 50 cm. The level of the depth of the dug pit varies with respect to the size of the gutter. Over time, the installed trays may lose their shape under the influence of the soil, so that this does not happen, you need to organize a sand cushion at the bottom of the ditch or make a concrete base. The gutters laid in the trenches are interconnected by a special fastening, locks, and the edges are fixed with plugs. All gaps between the walls of the pit and the trays must be covered with crushed stone.

Features of point drainage on the site with your own hands

Mounting a point drainage system on the site with your own hands does not require special skills and various plans. This is a fairly simple device, which consists of:

storm water inlets;
storm dampers;
settling tanks;
ladders;
conduits.

The main task of such equipment is to remove excess water from specific, small areas, such as door pits, areas under a watering tap, etc. The collected water in point devices moves through underground pipes to storm sewers.

Do-it-yourself surface drainage system

The device of the surface drainage system is a network of connected pipes laid throughout the territory of a site that requires regular drainage. At the intersections of the system, as well as at the corners, drainage wells are placed, with the help of which it is possible to control the working condition of the entire system. Water collected in collectors can be pumped out using special pumps, and also used for household purposes, for example, for organizing irrigation.

To collect water, ready-made pipes with holes of 1.5 - 5 mm are intended. These polymeric materials are intended for laying in the soil to a depth of 2-5 meters. For installation of a drainage system near wells and in the center, it is better to use pipes with a larger diameter, since in these places the water pressure is stronger and its volume is much larger.

At the stage of installation of drains, special attention should be paid to backfilling. It is advisable to use crushed stone without known impurities and coarse sand. To prevent early silting of pipes, professionals recommend laying already washed, cleaned crushed stone. According to the rules for installing a drainage system, a geotextile fiber is laid on the sand layer. It is also worth remembering that the process of creating a drainage system must be started from the lowland, gradually moving up the site.

Do-it-yourself types of surface drainage with a high level of groundwater

Installation of a drainage system is mandatory in places where groundwater is closely deposited. It allows you to organize an acceptable microclimate in such areas, seamlessly grow any plant crops, reduce the number of mosquitoes, and also reduce the spread of mold and fungal diseases. To combat the high level of groundwater near the house, surface drainage of both ring and wall types can be used.

Ring drainage is a reliable solution for regulating the groundwater level. It is a closed type equipment, which is installed well below the permanent mark of underground flows. This system can be made both in the form of a circle and a semicircle and cover not only a small area around one house, but also the territory on which several buildings are located. The process of creating an annular drainage system is quite possible to perform with my own hands without expert support. The only point that requires the intervention of professionals is the layout, since in the calculations you need to be extremely careful with the depth of trenching and the installation of drains.

As for water drainage, this moment can be organized in two ways:

the outflow moves into the general storm sewer;
water flows into specially installed drainage wells.

The ring drainage system requires cleaning, it is enough to do this once every few years, using a strong pressure of clean water, which is supplied through revision vessels.

Types and features of drainage on a site with clay soil

In areas with clay soil, it is recommended to install deep drainage, namely the reservoir type, because this type of soil does not conduct moisture well. The whole process of working on its creation requires a lot of time and money. In addition, it is very important to carry out all work before the start of construction. Step-by-step instruction installation of reservoir drainage on clay soil is as follows.

Step 1. On preparatory stage are harvested necessary tools and materials for installing drainage with your own hands. This series includes:

level and tape measure;
shovels for digging pits;
pegs and tape for marking the site;
Bulgarian;
pipes with holes;
geotextile fiber;
butt elements;
wells and parts for their assembly and installation, etc.

Step 2. A site is marked for digging trenches, the lower part of which should be at least 20 cm lower than the heel level.

Step 3. The bottom of the dug ditches is laid with sand and gravel, compacted. Perforated pipes are placed in them, which must be wrapped in several layers with geotextile fiber.

Step 4. After connecting all the components, installing drainage wells, all finished trenches are covered with excavated earth. The main condition for the occurrence of such a system is the right depth, as professionals say that all parts should be located above the clay soil layer.

No less common in clay areas is surface drainage. It can be arranged both in the form of a sand cushion and in a tray style. This type of drainage system should be equipped in the direction of the drainage well and maintain the desired level of slope. The width of the trenches for the system can vary from 30 cm or more, and the depth is around 50 cm, depending on the size of the prepared gutters. In areas with uneven terrain, where a natural slope can be traced, there is no need to additionally add a height difference.

For more information on how to make a drainage system with your own hands, see the video:

Do not want to put up with excessive moisture in your summer cottage? And you are doing it right. Excess water in the soil will not bring anything but harm: crop failure, death of plantings, waterlogging of the area, destruction of the foundations of buildings. An easy way to get rid of difficult problem- Do-it-yourself device of a drainage system.

Reasons for installing a drainage system

If the territory of the land plot is flat, and the soil is fertile and absorbs water, then you are incredibly lucky. In this case, drainage is not necessary.

Drainage of the suburban area is required in the following cases:

The site is located on clay soil.
Low location.
The country house stands on a slope or at the foot of a hill.
The region where the dacha was built is characterized by frequent and heavy rains and snowfalls.
Groundwater flows at a distance of less than 3 meters from the surface of the earth.

Excessive soil moisture is judged by standing puddles and vegetation. So, sedge and reeds grow in wetlands.

Confirm the need for drainage once again by conducting an experiment. Dig a hole 700 mm deep, and after 24 hours see if water has collected there. If yes, then drainage in the summer cottage is required.

Varieties of drainage systems in the country

Increased humidity in the territory of the suburban area due to different reasons. Depending on this, one or another type of drainage is chosen:

Surface - the easiest way to drain the soil. This type of drainage system is designed to protect the site from water, the source of which is precipitation in the form of rain, snow. Install it in areas without sharp drops.

Surface drainage is a collection of trenches dug along the perimeter of the territory. Flowing into the ditches, the water enters the collector installed at the lowest point of the system.

Surface drainage

The external drainage system is divided into two subspecies: point and linear.

Deep drainage - closed way drainage of the land. It is used in cases:

when country house built on uneven ground;
with a close location of groundwater to the surface of the earth;
in clay soil.

Do-it-yourself deep drainage device passes along the perimeter of a residential building and around agricultural buildings.

Preparation for construction work

Drainage is a system of ditches, pipelines. In order to correctly connect the elements to each other, it is necessary to make complex engineering calculations and draw up a drainage scheme. You cannot cope with this alone, so call the specialists of the Marisrub company for help.

Taking into account the peculiarities of the soil and landscape, experts in their field will draw up a project diagram and prompt you correct device drain.

The drainage system diagram contains the following information:

The place on the site from where the drainage system begins. This is the highest point in the area.
The lowest point of the system relative to the collector;
Location of main and additional ditches;
Dimensions of trenches and pipes;
Name and quantity of consumables;
Scheme of installation of pipelines and wells;
The slope angle of the trenches.

When starting to install drainage with your own hands, take into account certain nuances:

The territory of the entire land plot is subject to drainage. Therefore, drains for buildings and plants are included in a single system.
Inevitable material and time costs. On average, the installation of a drainage system takes up to 3 months.
Drainage of the territory is carried out in the summer.
Pipes are installed at a depth below the freezing point of the soil, and the drainage around the residential building is laid below the base of the foundation.

Installation of surface drainage

Making an outdoor drainage system with your own hands is easy even for novice builders.

Installation is simple:

Guided by the project, dig ditches according to the marked lines. At the same time, observe the dimensions: depth - 500 mm, width - 400 mm. To prevent the walls of the trench from crumbling, they are made sloping at an angle of 30 degrees. Outwardly, the trench resembles an inverted trapezoid. The main ditches drip downhill towards the place where water is collected - a well or reservoir. Additional branches of the system are carried out at an angle to the main trenches. The slope size is from 50 to 70 mm per 1 meter of length.
Check the operation of the drainage system. To do this, pour 2-3 buckets of water into the ditches and watch the flow. If fluid accumulates in the area, adjust the slope angle.
Fill the ditch with rubble. Large material is laid from below, and smaller gravel forms the top layer. This is recommended for water filtration.

To extend the life of the structure, they buy plastic trays and lay decorative gratings on them. To prevent clogging of the trays, additional sand traps are installed.

Thus, with the help of simple manipulations, you installed a linear type external drainage with your own hands.

Point drainage is necessary for local drainage of water. It is mounted in places where precipitation is drained from the roof and in areas where plants are irrigated.

Installation of deep drainage

The device of a closed drainage system is considered difficult to do it yourself and costly. For installation of deep drainage you will need:

Plastic pipes with drainage holes and a diameter of 10 cm for the main trenches or 7.5 cm for additional ones.
Connecting elements for the pipeline;
Water collector for drains. Reinforced concrete rings, a plastic can, car tires are suitable as a collector.

Do-it-yourself installation of deep drainage consists of the following steps:

Dig ditches sloping towards the collector, 600 mm deep for clay soil or 900 mm deep for sandy soil.
Place a 10 cm layer of sand on the bottom of the trench and carefully compact it.
Cover the trench with geotextile so that the edges reach the sides.
Pour crushed stone 20 cm high and lay drains on top with holes down. Manholes are installed at pipeline bends. They help control the operation of the drainage system and clean it from blockages.
Pour more crushed stone and wrap the geomaterial in a "roll".
Fill the trenches with soil, cover with sod.

Deep drainage is a reliable thing, but the installation is “affordable”. Therefore, economical owners of summer cottages have found a way out: they replace pipes with a bundle of branches and brushwood, and geotextiles with moss or turf.

This is not a luxury, but a necessity. Therefore, approach the issue of its installation with responsibility in order to avoid trouble in the future.