Gate and fence 

Wooden fences and fences with their own hands. Installing a wooden fence with your own hands. What can be processed and painted a wooden fence

The hut is strong with constipation, and the yard with a fence. It's good when the neighbor is close and the fence is low. Without a fence and constipation, you will not be protected from a thief. There is no fence without poles. The higher the fences, the better the neighbors.

Only a few proverbs testify to the fact that since ancient times a lot of attention has been paid to fences. Time goes by, technologies and building materials change, but the desire to protect your site does not go away. wooden material. What is the reason for such love for wooden fences, how to make a beautiful wooden fence with our own hands - let's try to figure it out.

Peculiarities

In central Russia, wood has always been considered the most popular building material. Its accessibility made it possible to build huts and baths, make furniture and utensils even for very poor people. Another thing is places where wood is a luxury. In this case, a wooden fence is a sign of the wealth of the owner of the house:

  • Thus, the first feature of the use of wood in the creation of a fence can be called a tradition based on accessibility.
  • The second feature is a demonstration of wealth or one's own skills and abilities.
  • An important circumstance in the use of such fences is practicality: for example, you can put up the simplest fence to protect livestock, and if necessary, dismantle it and transfer it to a new pasture.
  • Environmental friendliness is another feature. A bench placed under the fence will allow you to enjoy the aroma essential oils exuded by boards or slats. Wood will never be hot or cold like metal. It will perfectly absorb, unlike stone, most of the street sounds.
  • If necessary, in most cases, you can replace a fragment of the fence or repair the existing one.
  • Limiting a large perimeter (for example, a private house with a garden) is a costly business if you put up a stone or metal fence. But a do-it-yourself braid can do for free.

Summarizing all of the above, we can name two main functions of a wooden fence:

  • protection of the territory and households;
  • decorative design.

At the same time, it can protect:

  • the house and the entire household plot;
  • only courtyard buildings with a corral for animals;
  • only a front garden;
  • flower bed or flower garden.

According to the degree of penetration of the gaze, a wooden fence can be:

  • deaf;
  • translucent;
  • transparent.

Advantages and disadvantages

Indeed, such a fence has a lot of advantages compared to other materials:

  • comfortable temperature of wooden elements at any time of the year and day;
  • possibility self-manufacturing and installation without invited masters and complex tools;
  • huge scope for decoration;
  • the choice of color depends solely on the desire of the owner, not the manufacturer;
  • the ability to apply unusual geometry and shape in general;
  • goes well with stone and brick, metal and concrete, mesh and waste material.

It would seem that there are no shortcomings. But this is not so: a wooden fence requires constant care. But if this is done regularly, then he will delight with his beauty for many years.

The service life will depend on the climatic zone and soil quality.

Kinds

Before starting the construction of the fence of the required site, the owner must answer several questions:

  • what function should the fence perform;
  • what will be its height?
  • it will be deaf or transparent;
  • How will it open?
  • will be used Additional materials(brick, stone, etc.);
  • what will the pillars be made of (metal, logs, bricks);
  • what type of wood will be used for pillars and spans;
  • whether the help of specialists is required;
  • what costs can be expected.

After analyzing all the answers, you can choose one of the types (or combine them):

  • Herringbone. Also, such a fence is called a ladder or an American. From afar, the surface resembles deaf siding. Upon closer inspection, you can see that there are gaps between the boards located at an angle. This kind of custom design will protect the site from roadside dust, but will let air flow through. Strong wind can't damage the fence.

  • Classic variant- this is a vertical or horizontal tightly fitted canvas. It can be based on a brick or stone foundation, or only on wooden, metal, brick or stone pillars. Such a fence is suitable both for a private house or a cottage, and for a summer residence, that is, for those who want to leave their privacy as such.

  • Wattle- the most emotional warm look fence. It was invented so long ago that now I can’t remember exactly when. It is still considered commonplace among the Slavic peoples. But recently it is often used as a decorative element for low fences. At the same time, blind high fences are made - wickerwork, which look amazing in combination with other materials.

  • barrage ranch style has long ceased to be only American. Style is another matter. In the usual design, such a fence also serves to create a barrier for animals. But there are also beautiful options for fencing the adjacent territories.

You need to be prepared for the fact that this fence will not hide from prying eyes. Yes, and it is suitable for a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe fence, possibly a front garden.

  • Lattice was once considered an unusual fence. Crossed at an angle of 45 degrees, the slats make the design very airy. Liana-like plants, grapes will perfectly curl along it. Over time, a transparent lattice can turn into a living opaque hedge. Such sections, interspersed with wickerwork or a blank fence, look even more unusual.

  • Palisade appeared, perhaps, at the same time as the wattle fence, but it was used to protect the entire village. The strong and strong deaf protection will reliably protect from uninvited guests. Especially if the vertical stakes or logs have a pointed top edge. The durability of such a fence will give the foundation and brick (stone) pillars. But there is also an easier version of the picket fence - bamboo. It does not last as long, but it is much easier to mount it. Moreover, modern manufacturers offer a rolled ready-made fence.

  • Fence- one of the most popular types. So much so that they now produce a metal picket fence. This is a universal fence of different heights and widths of pickets. They are easy and quick to attach to wooden veins. If wooden canvases are placed close to each other, then passers-by will be visible from the site, but from the street you can only see what is happening in the yard by stopping. For decorative design such a fence use paint, varnish. It is made carved and multi-level, combined with other materials.

The picket fence without supporting pillars and crossbars looks completely unusual. Such a fence is also called a palisade, but still the essence is not in the name, but in the aesthetic and functional appeal. Gaining popularity lately horizontal fence as more economical and easier to install.

  • checkerboard- a mixture of a picket fence, a palisade and a classic fence. In fact, this is a picket fence, but nailed in two rows (from the street and the yard) in such a way that there are no gaps between the boards and the fence becomes deaf. In this case, both sides are front. In order to protect personal space from sight and encroachment, they make it from wider shtaketins.

Color solutions

Once upon a time, wooden fences were not painted at all. And even now, a rustic picket fence, enclosing an ordinary garden “on the back”, is hardly exposed to paints and varnishes. Nevertheless, they always try to ennoble the fence in front of the house, the front garden.

Color solutions for this choose a variety. Starting from varnishing, so as not to deprive the tree of the pattern given by nature. This method can give larch the color of cedar, and pine - the color of walnut. For the same purpose, as well as for protection against insects, various stains and other impregnating substances are used. This option will bring the color of the fence closer to the color of the pillars, foundation, gate, house.

The wooden picket fence, the lattice and even the palisade are covered with multi-colored paints. Particularly interesting is the palisade in the form of colored pencils. Such a playground fence will protect from road dust, street debris and strong winds.

If the house was painted, then it is logical to cover the fence with paint, creating a single ensemble of the entire estate. To do this, you can use the patterns of flowers, animals, floral ornaments. Sometimes two colors are used for this: for the background and for the template. Moreover, template drawings are most often painted in White color. In other cases, they draw real pictures on the facade of the house and the fence.

But still, the tree is often left appearance. After all, it is for naturalness, warmth and naturalness it is appreciated.

Decor

Except paintwork materials, there are many other ways to decorate wooden fences. Before dwelling on any decor option, you can look at 3D samples on the Internet to see the fence “live” from different angles and in different materials:

  • Some types of fencing are fence decor in themselves. For example, a lattice or wickerwork, a checkerboard or a log palisade.
  • Shtaketins, burned at the stake or using a burner, will not only get rid of insects and their larvae, but will also become a real designer find in the design of a Russian estate, a robber harbor or Berendey's kingdom.
  • The use of stone and brick will give solidity and durability to the entire structure. But it is also a wonderful decorating technique, as such fences look very beautiful.

  • Metal is not only a reliable protection for the fence itself, but also a beautiful decorative element. Forged elements will give an aesthetically attractive appearance and reliability to a wooden canvas.
  • An old fence can be updated in a non-standard way. If it long time if they were not varnished, then it will be difficult to do this: it will absorb an incredible amount of paints and varnishes, but at the same time it will no longer have the proper appearance. You can hide this significant drawback by using invoices. decorative elements: flower pots, climbing vertical greenery, birdhouses, old waste materials in the form of flat toys, pictures, etc. The fence itself, of course, will not save it, but for some time it will postpone its dismantling and installation of a new fence.
  • A photo grid will also help transform an old fence. This modern decorative material will help hide the flaws of any fence. You just need to choose the right material and pattern of the photo grid.

  • Log saw cuts - very beautiful option decor. With it, you can turn a transparent fence into a deaf one, hide holes in the place of damaged pickets.
  • Wattle can zone a place of rest in the country. If, however, weave into it climbing plants or artificial sunflowers, then such a place is stylized as a Ukrainian welcoming hut.

Design style

looking at the pictures various kinds barriers, one can verify that modern design gravitates towards minimalism and urban style. Whether it is worth applying this to a wooden fence is the decision of the owner. But, of course, it is worth paying attention to new trends:

  • For example, a combination of wood and gabions with pergons. Metal cages 25-30 cm wide filled with stones and pebbles are pergons. Such cages can act as a support for a tree, a foundation, or a full-fledged section of a fence. Gabion - the same metal grid with a stone, but may have the shape of a larger parallelepiped than pergon. Or maybe, in general, be any other form. Figures - gabions can be sections of the fence or perform a decorative (and at the same time protective) function at the gate or gate.

  • A modern palisade is not at all colored pencils made of slabs, but a monumental structure made of timber, made in an urban style. The combination of granite and marble with this type of wood creates a feeling of power and strength.
  • Perhaps the mixture of wood, metal and bottle glass can be attributed to eclecticism. This fence has a minimum of wood and a maximum of transparency. A vintage door reminds the owner of the time when this material was collected for their fence. The unusual way of combining wood and glass made this fence exclusive.

  • If you want to have a solid wooden fence, then you can think about combining wood with stone or brick. A rustic-style fence is naturalness, massiveness, and reliability. American style country less rough, but no less reliable. A solid fence using brick pillars will serve its owners for a long time.
  • The combination of metal and wood will make the fence durable. Such a modern fence can only perform a protective function or be a real product.

Wood is such a comfortable material that it can be combined with any material. The main thing is to turn on the fantasy and choose the style of the future fence.

How to do it yourself?

The quality of the fence depends, among other things, on the type of tree. Pine due to the emitted resins is less exposed to climatic influences. And Siberian larch is a hard material that can withstand heavy loads. In addition, from contact with water, it improves its qualities.

Also use oak, aspen, ash, alder, mulberry. It is not recommended to make birch fences: it is short-lived and quickly cracks. There are also original tree species designed for a large pocket or a reliable bank card. To name just a few: abashi, akazhu, bangkirai, kasai, kekatong, merbau, tiger tree.

The next step after choosing the style and type of wood will be the calculation of the material. It is clear that for this need to accurately represent the project according to the drawing. But still, let's try to calculate the number of pickets for a deaf or translucent fence.

For this:

  1. Measure the length of the future fence. For example, 50 m (5000 cm) when using boards 10 cm wide.
  2. Calculate the amount of picket fence for a blind fence: 5000 cm / 10 cm = 500 boards.
  3. Calculation for a translucent fence: the width of the gap between the boards is added to the width of the fence. For example: 10 cm (shtaketin) + 10 cm (gap) = 20 cm. Therefore, for such a fence you will need: 5000 cm / 20 cm = 250 boards.

If the price is indicated in the store per cubic meter, then in this case the thickness of one board is multiplied by the length and width. The result is multiplied by the number of boards. This will be the number of cubic meters.

For example, the thickness of the fence is 2 cm, length - 200 cm, width - 10 cm. It is necessary to convert the dimensions to meters: 0.02x2x0.10 \u003d 0.004. Multiply the result obtained by the number of boards that are needed for the fence: 0.004x500 = 2 cubic meters of picket fence must be purchased for such a fence.

The number of boards in a cubic meter is counted in reverse order. At the same time, in all cases of calculation, it is necessary to provide a margin for an unforeseen event.

For crossbars and pillars, the material must be selected very carefully. If the fence is translucent, then the distance between the posts is 2 m. For a blind fence, a distance of 1.5 m is determined. The digging depth depends on the soil, usually 1-1.5 m.

As a rule, the fence has 2 crossbars. Therefore, the length of the fence must be multiplied by 2 plus up to 5 m of stock - this will be the need for crossbars for a picket fence.

All other options for installing a wooden fence are so individual that they need to be calculated independently. Having decided on the total number of building material, you need to take care of the tools. Depending on the type of fence, this set will also be different. You will most likely need the following tools:

  • saw, hacksaw;
  • jigsaw;
  • axe;
  • shovel;
  • roulette;
  • a hammer;
  • level;
  • rope, twine;
  • earth drill;
  • screwdriver;
  • electric drill;

In addition, you will need building materials:

  • picket fence, boards (it is better to impregnate them with a protective compound before installation);
  • transverse bars, crossbars;
  • supporting pillars;
  • pegs for marking;
  • sand, gravel;
  • cement;
  • galvanized fasteners (nails, self-tapping screws, hinges are also covered with drying oil before installation).

The whole sequence of work will consist of several stages:

  • support installation;
  • fastening crossbars (if the fence is vertical);
  • frame sheathing.

Mounting

There are 2 fundamentally different installation options: with and without foundation installation. The first option is more laborious, but more durable. The fence according to the second option is much faster and easier to do. Let's take a look at it:

  • Territory preparation. Since the bottom edge of the boards will touch the ground, the area must be cleared of grass, stones and bumps.
  • With the help of pointed wooden pegs 60 cm long, the territory is marked out according to a pre-drawn plan. The distance between the pegs is the distance between the future supports. The pegs are looped with a rope, which is pulled tight enough. At this point, you need to check how smoothly the markup is made.
  • The pegs are taken out one at a time, and in their place, wells are drilled for supports with a depth of 50 cm (for a flower bed or a low picket fence) to 1.5 m (for a solid massive fence).
  • The supports are driven into the ground. There are several installation methods: clogging, backfilling, concreting. But before using any, you need to take care of a wooden support, namely: treat it with a special compound, wrap it with roofing material, cement it in metal cylinder. All this will save the post from rotting. Install supports with a plumb bob. Usually, the bottom of the pit is sprinkled with sand and compacted tightly, then a post is installed, covered with gravel and compacted again. The sequence is repeated, with each layer of sand wetted with water.

  • A nail is driven into the top of each post, after which all the nails are pulled together with a rope. In this way, the pillars are aligned.
  • The veins are nailed to the supports. Mounting height may vary. Most often done as follows: the height of the fence is conventionally divided into 3 parts. The lower crossbar is nailed at a height of 1/3, the top - at a height of 2/3. It is important to choose the right nails: too short will not hold the crossbar, too large a diameter will lead to cracking of the wood.
  • Fastening the picket fence in a deaf or translucent way. Top edge alignment. Giving it a decorative design with a saw and a jigsaw.
  • Protection of support posts with caps (plastic, metal, wood, glass).
  • Impregnation and painting. If the boards were installed without pre-treatment, then they should be impregnated with drying oil or a protective compound. You need to do this in 2 layers.

Then the fence is painted.

Paint should be chosen for outdoor work. Or, to preserve the naturalness of the wood, prefer varnish.

Fastening methods

If conventional fastening methods do not suit you, then you can find more interesting solutions:

  • Instead of shtaketin use croaker. Such material will decorate the fence in a rustic antique style. A rounded log, on the contrary, looks very modern.
  • You can bend the boards in such a way that you get an Austrian braid - a double-sided fence with minimal gaps.
  • You can use planken. This is a kind of larch facade boards, in which all corners are beveled or rounded. Due to this, the boards are not fastened close to each other, but with a micro-distance. This method of fastening the planken does not allow the boards to swell from moisture and deform.

  • Building wood siding. To do this, the boards are fixed horizontally, starting from the bottom, overlapping by about 25 mm.
  • Creation horizontal blinds. To do this, notches are made in the supports, into which the boards are inserted at a slight angle. This method will practically close the review, but will significantly save the amount of material. In addition, it is ideal for places with strong winds, as the fence will not be subject to wind loads.
  • The fence can be mounted diagonally. The complexity of this method lies in the constant measurement of the angle at the beginning of the installation. But such a fence will look great, especially if its upper edge is left in the form of a palisade. With the diagonal method, the fence can also be deaf or translucent.

  • You can use the checkerboard method, which has already been mentioned above. Such a fence can be vertical or horizontal. In this case, the length of the shtaketin can be the same or different (a more complicated option, but also more interesting).

If thin untreated birch branches and trunks are passed very tightly through the crossbars, then such a wattle fence will be cheap, but it will protect no worse.

In addition, there are fastening methods when the boards are fastened between the support posts or hiding the posts. The first case will require more time and accuracy.

If the pillars are brick or stone, then other methods are used. Sectional installation of spans between columns is possible here. This work is done with an assistant. It is more time consuming, but the fence will last for a long time.

In order for a wooden fence to please with its appearance for a long time, you need:

  • before installation, impregnate the wood with an antiseptic;
  • check the absence of anthills at the site of the future fence;
  • install a protective visor not only on the support poles, but also above the spans (if this does not fit into the chosen style, then you can try to secure the fence with a glass or polycarbonate visor);
  • get rid of grass along the fence in a timely manner, this will reduce the level of humidity;
  • after installation, cover the entire tree with a primer, this is done only in dry weather on dry wood;
  • once every 2-3 years to carry out its painting.

It is good to protect the wooden fence from fungus and cracking with Swedish paint or yacht varnish.

Many people water the boards with hot drying oil before installation.

Since the untreated board loses moisture under the action of ultraviolet rays, it is the impregnation that neutralizes this drawback. Many use special UV hardeners, which are sold in hardware stores, as an impregnation. They process the boards several times with a primer so that the impregnation penetrates as deep as possible into the wood. After that, the tree is covered with paint or varnish.

Unlike drying oil and varnish, Swedish paint is a homemade composition of:

  • 250 g of copper sulfate;
  • 250 g iron minium;
  • 250 g table salt;
  • 230 ml of drying oil or linseed oil;
  • 570 g rye flour;
  • 4.5 liters of water.

According to these proportions, you can prepare any amount of paint, but remember: the paint thickens very quickly, so you need to either cook in small portions or paint in several hands. Mixture consumption: 210-270 ml per square meter.

This recipe will give the wood a golden color. To obtain a different color, red lead is replaced with ocher, hydrogen peroxide or another color component.

Prepare the paint in this way:

  • cook a paste from flour and 3 liters of water;
  • to remove lumps, the substance is passed through a sieve;
  • strained glue is again put on fire, adding salt and vitriol;
  • you need to constantly stir the mixture, waiting for the vitriol to completely dissolve;
  • while continuing to stir, gradually add drying oil, then water (a liquid composition of a homogeneous consistency should be obtained).

The paint is applied in two layers. Do not forget about fasteners metal elements. They also need to be coated with special solutions from rust. Loose metal parts are reinforced with dowels.

But during operation, the fence may require not only preventive painting, but also repair. If preventive work against rye did not help, then the metal parts are simply changed. If we are talking about wooden elements, it is necessary to determine the degree of deterioration.

If the pillar-support is loosened, but not rotted, then it is carefully dug up about 20 cm deep and the same width. Aligning the support vertically, the pit is covered with broken bricks and poured with cement. For a few days they put props. The reason for such a game of support is the insufficient depth of the pit during installation and a violation of the installation technology.

If the post is rotten in its lower part, then the entire post or its lower part can be replaced. It's probably easier to replace the entire pole. But if this is not possible, proceed as follows: the pillar is dug out from the side and the rotten part is sawn off. A concrete support is prepared in advance instead of the rotten part. Holes for bolts are drilled in its upper part.

A concrete pile is installed in a pit, galvanized bolts are inserted into the holes. The entire structure is coated with an antiseptic. A wooden pole is put on the bolts, leveled along the slope and fixed with spacers. Crushed stone or broken brick is poured into the pit, and all this is tightly compacted. After a few days, the spacers are removed.

If the pickets have rotted or become unusable, then they need to be replaced. After dismantling, the repair site is treated with an antiseptic and dried, only after that a new board is installed.

The climate of any region of the world will affect wooden fences: somewhere there is too much precipitation, which causes the wood to rot; the hot sun dries it out and causes cracking. Dust storms peel off the paint.

All this warns the owners of wooden fences: only timely care will extend its service life.

Beautiful examples

Above, many examples were given of how, with the help of various types of wooden fence, you can decorate a summer cottage or Vacation home, front garden or flower bed. But beautiful examples so much that It is worth paying attention to at least a few more:

  • To put up such a wonderful fence, you do not need a lot of money. Only a jigsaw, sandpaper, a carving knife, and the desire of the master to make a real masterpiece out of a simple fence. And even though the fence seems shabby by time, only a true craftsman knows that a fairy tale lives behind it.

  • The croaker is a substandard board, and therefore it costs quite a bit. The more valuable such a fence. After sanding and processing, the usual croaker turned not only into a place of rest, but also into a kind of entrance to another interesting and unusual world.

  • Such a fence will require painstaking work. A board that, at first glance, does not seem to be edged, is unlikely to be. Careful work with a jigsaw, grinder, coupled with the work of a bricklayer, makes this fence an exclusive, worthy of the highest praise.

  • A wooden fence, combined with a stone-metal gabion, makes you stop not only to consider this unusual sight, but also to think about deep philosophical topics. In our life, everything coexists in a strange way: warm wood with cold metal, soft board with hard stone.

  • This fence, like the house on the site, is protected from all misfortunes for a long time: strong stone supports, stone foundation, Swedish paint on a checkerboard. A very caring owner took care not only of his property, but also of his own time. After all, such a fence will not need repair for a long time.

  • But if the previous option is very expensive, then this one is very budgetary. Such a fence cannot be fully called wooden, rather, combined. And it is subject to every non-lazy owner. At in large numbers inserted branches, you can achieve good protection of your site.

  • The article mentioned a lot various options fence, but this one is special. So organically, softly, it looks on the site. At the same time, it perfectly zones the entire territory. Here you can drink tea with the company or hide from everyone and sit in silence. The unusual shape of the spiral makes the desire to get to the center even greater.

  • To make such a horizontal non-standard checkerboard, you need to think completely outside the box. Different widths and lengths of boards, gaps where they, it would seem, should not be. Beautiful, unexpected, interesting.

  • Even if you look very carefully, it is still difficult for a simple viewer to understand how this fence was made. It is convex, as if woven. The transverse beam seems to let the boards through itself. Moreover, the appearance of the burnt wood makes the fence completely unusual.

  • And this combined fence again breaks stereotypes: a rounded habitual top and a completely unusual form of connection of two materials. Certainly beautiful. Also such interesting colors.

  • The value of this fence is that it decorates not an elite cottage settlement on Rublyovka, but an ordinary rural street. And if the owners of this non-standard house and the Austrian wickerwork created such beauty in an ordinary village, it means that men on Russian land have not yet died out.

The content of the article:

A wooden fence is a great solution for a suburban area. Any owner, relying on his own imagination, can make a completely exclusive fence due to the properties of wood and the many options for using it for such a purpose. You will learn how to make a wooden fence without resorting to high costs from our article.

Types and features of wooden fences

Depending on the height, the fences are divided into three categories: low height up to 0.8 m; medium - up to 1.5 m; high - more than 1.5 m.

In appearance, wooden fences can be divided into several types:

  • Fence. It is a canvas made up of battens nailed to horizontal girders and fixed between support pillars. Such a fence is often used for decorative purposes, as well as to protect the site from the street and neighbors.
  • . It consists of processed boards nailed together closely, overlapping or with gaps to the girders located horizontally between the supports. Among wooden fences, plank fences are considered the most reliable.
  • Palisade. This is a fence consisting of a row of logs dug vertically into the ground. Logs can be located in relation to each other closely or with gaps. To strengthen such a fence from its inside, the logs are connected with nails by transverse planks. Consumption of wood material in the construction of a log fence garden plot is often unjustified.
  • Wattle. For giving such a fence is a beautiful and successful solution. It is made of small height, using willow or birch branches for weaving.
Which type of wooden fence to choose depends on the preferences of the owner of the site. But usually high structures separate the perimeter of the entire site, low fences divide the courtyard into zones, and fences of medium height are erected on the border with friendly neighbors or with the intention of keeping pets.

Regardless of the type, the design of any wooden fence consists of three main elements: supporting pillars, transverse girders and material for filling its sections - boards, rods, slabs, etc.

Advantages and disadvantages of a wooden fence


The main advantages of wooden fences are the light weight of wood, which facilitates its transportation, and affordable cost. Simple design such fences allows them to build independently.

Wooden fences are perfectly combined with the green landscape of the site, stone house or a wreck. With a little imagination, your wooden fence can be made absolutely unique.

The disadvantage of erecting wooden fences is their short service life. Wood is susceptible to rotting and damage by tree insects. Fire and precipitation do not affect it in the best way.

But it is not difficult to deal with such problems today. There are many different protective compositions such as antiseptics, stains and fire retardants. The lumber or logs processed by them last much longer.

Wooden fence installation technology

Even the most ordinary wooden fences can be made beautiful with correct installation and finishing. The installation of a wooden fence consists of three steps: mounting the support posts, attaching the cross girders and nailing the picket fence. Instead of a picket fence and runs in such fences, a slab, a palisade made of logs or wicker weaving can be used. Consider the basic principle of installing a wooden fence.

Preparatory work


They include the choice of fencing design, design, preparation of materials, tools and marking the perimeter of the fence on the ground.

You need to start work by determining the type of planned fence. The easiest way is to build a picket fence. If such a fence is decorative, it can be recruited from thin strips with a diagonal arrangement. Many owners love solid fence from a slab imitating a palisade.

The top of the fence sections can also be done in different ways. It can be curly, convex or concave. In any case, before starting work, you need to clearly understand the appearance and design features planned fence. Several options for its sections can be depicted on paper and at the same time determine the need for a plinth under them. Such a fence will be combined, that is, consisting of wood and stone, but in appearance it is no worse than usual.

In order to calculate the required amount of materials for outdoor fencing, it is necessary to draw a plan of the land plot on a scale. Knowing the dimensions of the sides of its perimeter, it is easy to calculate the length of the future fence. on its corners and entrance group it is necessary to plan the installation of support pillars, and every 2 m - intermediate racks, which will provide the fence structure with the required rigidity. Having all these data and determining the height of the fence, you can calculate the amount of material.

After performing the calculations on paper, you need to prepare the tools necessary for work and proceed to marking the fence on the ground. The set of tools should include: pegs, nylon cord, tape measure and hydraulic level, shovel, ax, hacksaw, garden drill, hammer and nails. For the installation of fence posts and waterproofing devices, in addition to the basic materials, you will need roofing material, bituminous mastic, M400 concrete, crushed stone and river sand.

The marking of the fence on the ground must begin with the determination of the installation points for the corner posts. These places must be marked with pegs driven into the ground. After that, between them it is necessary to pull and fasten the nylon cord, and then mark the points of location of the intermediate racks with pegs. Thanks to the cord, they will all be on the same line of the side of the perimeter of the site, and after installation, the wooden fence will turn out to be even.

When the markup is completed, it is necessary to prepare the supporting fence posts for installation. At the request of the owner of the site, they can be made of rolled metal, timber or logs. When choosing the first option, plugs cut from a metal sheet must be welded to the top of all pipes. This will prevent moisture from precipitation from getting inside the racks and causing them to oxidize. The underground part of the supports should be covered bituminous mastic, and the rest - primed and painted with anti-corrosion enamel.

If the option of wooden poles is chosen, it is recommended to first sharpen their top. This will prevent rain water from entering the rack through its end. Moisture will simply roll down the support without penetrating into her body. As for the thickness of the logs or timber for the supports, something in between should be chosen here. Too thick supports in the fence look ridiculous, and too thin will not have sufficient strength. Before installation, it is desirable to burn the poles on a fire, and then their lower part, which will be underground, must be covered with bitumen and wrapped with two layers of roofing material.

In the places marked with pegs, holes should be dug for supports. Their depth is directly related to the height of the planned fence. With a height of the aerial part of the support less than a meter, the hole can be made 0.8 m deep. Further, respectively: for a support up to 1.5 m - 1 m, over 1.5 m - the depth of the hole is 1/2 column. The width of the hole must be such that a distance of at least 0.2 m is maintained between its edge and the installed post.

If the poles are metal, it is convenient to make holes for them using a garden drill. If you stick tape on it, it will be possible to high precision control the depth of the recesses in the process of working with this tool.

Installation of wooden fence posts


Before installing the supporting pillars, the bottom of the prepared holes must be covered with crushed stone of the middle fraction. In this case, when the soil freezes in winter, the fence posts will be able to maintain their original position. The walls of the dug holes are recommended to be covered with roofing material all around, having built a kind of formwork out of it.

The installation of fence supports in the holes should be carried out using a plumb line. After installation in a strictly vertical position, the racks must be temporarily fixed with stops. If the height of the supports is less than one and a half meters, it is enough to fill the sinuses of the holes with bricks, rubble and tamp everything. With a fence height of more than one and a half meters, holes with installed supports should be poured with M400 concrete. In order to reduce its consumption, 2/3 of each hole can be covered with stones or broken bricks.

If you plan to install a combined fence with a plinth, the installation of its supports should be done differently. Instead of holes along the marking lines, you need to dig a trench meter deep. Its bottom should be covered with rubble, the walls should be covered with a waterproofing film, and a wooden formwork should be installed outside, which should form a base, and therefore rise 0.5 m above the top of the trench.

After that, support poles and reinforcing cages can be installed in the trench. The bottom of the supports, which will be in concrete, must be treated with bitumen. Their installation should be carried out using a plumb line and building level. The vertical position of the racks must be fixed with stops made of bars.

When everything is ready, the formwork, together with the trench, must be poured with M400 concrete. If you prepare the mixture yourself, you will need a concrete mixer, as well as cement, sand and gravel in a ratio of 1: 2: 3.

After pouring, you need to wait until the concrete hardens. If the supports were installed in the holes, this period will be a little more than a week. The hardening of the base will take almost a month. After the concrete has gained the required strength, it is possible to clad the racks with brick or stone.

Fastening girders and other elements of a wooden fence


These fence parts are bars or slats with a slight cross section, connecting the pillars and forming the frame of the span between them. When erecting a wooden fence, each run must be attached to the center of the support, and when installing the next span, the new run should be joined to the already fixed bar. Runs can be nailed over a wooden support, or you can cut a seat in it for a more durable fastening.

In order for the fence structure to be strong, transverse girders can be nailed, placing them in a checkerboard pattern and excluding their joining on one support. The thickness of the bars of the runs should be selected depending on the thickness and weight of the lumber. The more massive it is, the stronger the runs should be.

Their location should be parallel to each other and perpendicular to the supports. Otherwise, the view of the fence may be spoiled. This will be especially noticeable when installing a picket fence with gaps. Installation of runs should be constantly monitored using a tape measure and a building level.

If a horizontal arrangement of boards is planned in a wooden fence, then the runs must be connected with vertical guides that will bear the load from the spans. It is recommended to fasten the runs to wooden supports with galvanized self-tapping screws. If nails are used, they should not be driven into the wood vertically, but slightly at an angle.

To install the picket fence in a vertical position, it is recommended to make a template that will facilitate the work of even fastening the boards. The template is a rail with a width corresponding to the distance between the picket fence strips. If it is made T-shaped, it will be possible to additionally control the height of fixation of the pickets.

If in a wooden fence the picket fence will be located diagonally, you need to make a frame from the planks in accordance with the size of the span. The frame should be fixed on supports, and then a picket fence should be nailed to it.

In the manufacture of wattle, the supporting poles have a small cross section and are mounted relative to each other at short distances of 40-60 cm. Before installing such a fence, the vine from which it is to be woven should be soaked in water for a couple of days. After that, it will be easier to work with this material. Wattle with a horizontal or vertical arrangement of branches of the vine is very beautiful and resembles a traditional village fence.

The fence from the palisade can be imitated or real. In the first case, this is a slab nailed to the runs. His boards need to be placed close. Much less often, the palisade is real. For its manufacture, pointed logs need to be dug into the ground. Such a fence is durable, but requires a lot of logs.

Caring for a wooden fence


Due to the fact that wood from constant exposure to moisture can gradually rot, a wooden fence needs periodic maintenance. It consists in the treatment of boards and supports with antiseptic compounds and the coloring of all wooden parts structures with waterproof enamels.

It is recommended to perform such work every year, preferably in the spring. Before the next painting, the old peeling enamel must be removed from the fence with a brush with a metal bristle. If it is white, it will have to be painted up to three times a year. Only in this case, such a fence will always look fresh.

How to make a wooden fence - look at the video:


Building a wooden fence with your own hands is an absolutely simple matter. However, after its completion, such a design must be constantly paid attention to. Without it, she will become vulnerable, and with good maintenance she will delight everyone with her appearance and protection from many misfortunes for a long time.

Features of installing a wooden fence for a summer residence with your own hands

strong fence around the house is an essential need. A high fence not only protects property, but creates a sense of psychological comfort.

Wooden fences have always been considered ideal option fences. They are made of pure ecological materials and are quite simple in self-construction. Properly built and well maintained wooden fences can last up to four decades.

What are wooden fences

All products of this type can be divided into two large groups:

Considering wooden fences by design, the following options are available:


What kind of wood to make a fence

Experts advise using conifers trees. It may larch or spruce, cedar, pine. It should be borne in mind that pine is not very durable. In principle, any type of wood is suitable for a wooden fence, the main thing is that it be of high quality. If you want to save money, then you can safely take spruce or pine. Before use, the wood must be well treated with an antiseptic with olive.

Preparing tools for mounting

We will need:

Do-it-yourself step-by-step construction of a wooden fence

Stage #1

Wooden pegs are taken about 60 cm in length. Everyone needs to be sharpened. Then the site plan is taken, and the pegs are hammered around the entire perimeter of the territory.

The distance between them should be in the region of two meters from each other.

Then the pegs must be looped with lacing. It needs to be well stretched.

Stage #2

It is necessary to determine the required height of the fence. It is important that it is not too high (because it can obscure the planting) or too low (so as not to put the site on display). Optimal average height considered 1.5-2.5 meters.

The boards are cut to the designated length. They need to be processed grinding machine and make a semicircular or triangular profile. If you need to save time, you can buy ready-made boards.

Stage 3

There comes a moment when the pegs are removed one at a time, and in their place a well is drilled with a depth of about 50-80 cm under the supports for the future fence. To make the work go faster, it is better to do it using a drill. If there is no access to the drill, then the holes can be made with an ordinary shovel.

Stage 4

Pre-prepared supports can now be dug into the ground. Bars can be with a section of 50 * 50 mm or 75 * 75 mm. It is necessary to install the bars strictly vertically, for great accuracy it is recommended to use a plumb line. The wells are covered with earth and compacted tightly. To consolidate the results of the work and make the fence durable, supports must be cemented.

Stage number 5

On top of each beam, a nail is hammered, and they are pulled together along the perimeter with a tightly stretched lacing. This must be done in order to level the fence.

Stage #6

The veins (section 10 * 2.5 cm) are attached to the beams with nails. They must be placed at the same distance from each other. This is done at a height of about 20-30 cm above the soil level. Nails must be right size to punch through the veins and protrude a few centimeters from the back. The protruding parts of the nails must be carefully bent.

Stage number 7

Boards prepared for the fence are nailed to the nails. If you want to make a deaf fence, then the boards are nailed end-to-end. You can also leave a small distance between them from one to five centimeters.

Wood fence painting and finishing

The stages of installation of a wooden fence are completed, but there is still a lot of work ahead. It is necessary to protect the wooden fence from bad weather and insects. For this, special measures are taken, in particular - processing and painting.

As a protective material, experts recommend using ordinary drying oil. This tool is common and available at its cost. If finances allow, then the hardware stores offer many options for stronger and more expensive tree protection.

After the applied protective layer dries, you can start painting.

For this, special paints for wood are selected, which are presented in a wide range on modern construction markets. This combination: drying oil and special paint will protect the fence from the sun and moisture.

It is important! Painting a wooden fence should be repeated once every two, maximum three years.

Wooden fences have many advantages - environmental friendliness of the material and beautiful appearance, reliable protection and long service life. In order for a tree to fully reveal these qualities, it is necessary to properly mount the fence and, without fail, protect the wood with drying oil and paint.

How to extend the life of a wooden fence

For added protection from rain and snow, many professionals recommend installing a upper part fence special visor. To do this, you will need to install special additional strips on which the visor can be attached.

Installing such a visor is a painstaking and time-consuming task, but the product can protect the tree from moisture as much as possible, and the appearance of the fence will become more original and individual.

To protect the bottom of the fence, you must constantly:

  • Remove excess grass. A lot of vegetation near the fence leads to increased humidity. This can cause early rotting of the tree.
  • After removing excess grass, a thin layer of gravel is poured along the fence. This will allow excess moisture not to accumulate in this place.

how Extend the life of your wood fence still under construction:

  • Make sure that there are no anthills and large thickets in the installation site.
  • Impregnate the wood with special antiseptics even before the start of construction.
  • Upon completion of installation, coat the entire structure with a primer. This will strengthen the fence and provide excellent protection from adverse weather conditions. You can make a primer only in warm weather, when the tree is completely dry.
  • An additional primer is done using paint, which includes natural oils. This doubles the strength of the material. Layer oil paint should dry for about 24 hours before applying the second. Then the material will be well impregnated.

When the materials are prepared, there are tools, as well as free time, building a wooden fence with your own hands is a task that even a beginner in construction can do. But it is important not only to install the fence correctly, but also to provide it with constant care and protection. Then the wooden fence will last up to forty-five years.

Step-by-step video instructions for building a wooden fence

On the video - self-construction of a wooden fence:

Photo gallery of various wooden fences

The photo shows examples of the implementation of various decorative and unusual wooden fences installed on suburban area. Some of the ideas can help you choose your own solutions.

Fences made of wood are considered the most short-lived. After all, not everyone knows (or does not want to know) the secrets of wood and its processing.

An untreated pine fence will indeed last no more than 10 years, and even then, provided that the lower part of the pillar is waterproofed. If you are making a temporary fence for the period of construction and improvement, then this is a completely justified decision.


Another thing is when wood is chosen as a building material not because of its cheapness, but because of the possibilities of design. After all, wood is considered the most malleable material for decorative processing.



This is what the fence looks like from the first photo from the side of the yard. Agree, no less attractive ...



Pay attention to the outline of the boards: how much "attention" was paid to each of them, how carefully the edges are worked out and the corners are smoothed... The photo shows the sliding gates of the same yard.

How many exist design techniques: firing, toning, aged effect, combination with forged overlays, finally, just perfect sanding and coating with yacht varnish.




Design options for wooden fences are given at the end of the article.

Having invested labor (or money) in the creation of a masterpiece of wooden architecture, I want to admire it for as long as possible. Therefore, there are a number of important points that the owner of the estate should know.

LONGEVITY Pledge


Choose for the fence those wood species that are distinguished by high density: Siberian larch, oak, mulberry, acacia, aspen, alder, ash. By the way, a Siberian larch fence can be called eternal - from contact with water, the wood of this tree, on the contrary, grows stronger.


Limit the use of pine to the creation of a fence board - in case of rapid wear, it is not difficult to replace it. In no case do not put a birch fence - it has the most unstable wood.



support poles for a wooden fence can be wooden, metal or made of masonry.

The last two options will serve as a reliable support for many years to come. But do not write off the tree. It doesn't have to be buried in the ground.

To extend the service life, you can use special metal consoles (supports), which are concreted, and then a wooden beam is attached to them (see link on the side).



The most vulnerable part sawn wood - one where the cut is made across the grain. To extend the life of a wooden fence will help the horizontal arrangement of boards or a protective visor over those standing vertically.

Wood is vulnerable when it comes into direct contact with air: when wet, it swells and is affected by fungus; too dry contributes to its cracking. You can reduce the risks due to mandatory treatment: impregnation with an antiseptic plus painting with special dyes (Swedish paint, yacht varnish, impregnation with hot drying oil).


 SWEDISH PAINT
  • iron (copper) vitriol - 260 g,
  • iron minium - 260 g,
  • table salt - 260 g,
  • rye flour - 580 g,
  • drying oil or linseed oil - 240 ml,
  • water - about 4.5 liters.

The consumption of the composition is approximately 200-300 ml/m 2 . Color - golden. If you need a different shade, then red lead can be replaced with ocher or manganese peroxide.

The coloring composition is prepared as follows: the flour is mixed with 3 liters of water and the paste is boiled, passed through a sieve to avoid lumps, put on fire again and add ferrous sulfate and salt, stirring constantly until the vitriol is completely dissolved, continuing to stir, pour in small portions first oil (linseed oil) then water (until a liquid homogeneous consistency is obtained).

Apply the paint immediately, because it thickens quickly. Therefore, it is better to work with two or three people, or divide the composition into smaller portions and cook it as it is spent.

WOODEN FENCE FRAME


The step of the supporting pillars is 2-3 m.


As supports, choose a round or square bar with a section of 100x100 mm or metal pipe section 40x40, 40x60, 60x60 mm (with a wall thickness of 2 mm), for gates 80x80 and 100x100 mm (with a wall thickness of 3 mm). The wider the pitch of the supports and the greater the load (weight and wind), the larger size and wall thickness.


So for a fence-blinds with a two-meter section, the minimum parameters are selected from the above, for a solid one, and even with forged overlays - the maximum.

If there is no choice of lumber (wood species), then the budget pine is carefully treated with protective chemistry, and the posts must be installed on a concrete base.



For horizontal crossbars, a bar with a section of 30 (enough) x 50 (and wider) mm is used.

For mounting wooden crossbars on a metal pole, "ears" with holes for fasteners are welded to it. To avoid welding during installation, you can purchase ready-made posts with fasteners.

A board 25 mm thick goes to the skin (shield). The width varies depending on the design.

The rest of the technological sequence, the depth and method of laying, up to the chemical treatment of the frame, is the same as for the fence from corrugated board:

  • frame is mounted
  • color,
  • after stuffing the shield.

METHOD OF FASTENING THE FRAME AND BOARDS


The most durable will be the connection with self-tapping screws. Choose self-tapping screws, taking into account such a requirement: into the body wooden pole(crossbar) should include 30-40 mm of thread.

Each board is fixed with at least two screws on each edge.



There are options for a non-standard approach to fastening boards. Here is an example of a fence assembled according to the wattle principle. The curved board, trying to straighten itself, is pressed tightly against the support. Although, given the pliability of wood in a humid environment, additional fixation of each board will still have to be done.




For the fence in the photo above, we used the method of sheathing with wooden siding. Start fastening the boards from the bottom up with an overlap of 2.5 cm.


An interesting novelty is a woodenFENCE-SHUTTER.


If the boards are made with a downward slope towards the street, then an invisible fence will be obtained that will not experience strong wind loads. There are several ways to fix the boards at an angle.

In the photo on the right, wooden lamellas are nailed to a gear rack, which, in turn, is fixed to a support post.




 Another way- nail the boards from the end. It is important to clearly mark the wooden rack. This option is relevant for a fence with metal supports. When all sections are filled along the front and back, a board is nailed that will cover the entire "kitchen". A wooden plug must be put on top of the pole.

Are you interested in the question of how to mount the next section if the neighboring section restricts access to it? It is simply slightly pushed out first towards the street, after - the site (or vice versa) in order to fix the lamella. Fastening to a metal support is carried out after the installation of adjacent sections.




 Third option for support from wooden beam. In it, oblique cut-grooves are made, into which the end of the lamellas is inserted. Each must be screwed with a self-tapping screw, and then a wooden lining is made from the front part, which will hide the attachment points.




In the end, the wooden blinds fence will look like this. Don't forget to nail the end caps to the top of the post.




Simple horizontal fastening of boards looks boring. But if you make small (up to 1.5 cm) gaps between them, then the canvas of the section will acquire a more modern sound. How at the same board (within reason), the more interesting and modern the finished fence looks.




It’s also nice to alternate boards of different widths - the main thing is that adjacent sections repeat the pattern.












Do not ignore the unedged board. In addition to being cheaper, it also looks more exclusive. The truth is not suitable for all styles of site design. It will look win-win in the forest.




Here is another option for a brutal style wooden fence.



You will need a jigsaw, a wood carving knife, sanding paper and skillful hands in order to complete this original fence with the effect of a worn board.




Have you ever collected puzzles? So, to create these fence sections (pictured above), you first need to draw and carve them from the boards. Each plank of this fence has its own clear size and bend, that is, first they create a template, then they cut it out, chamfer it, grind it, and treat it with protective chemistry. And only after they are knocked down into the section. And how the elements are fixed to each other is the secret of the master ...




For the slab fence in the photo above, the entire wane was carefully selected, because it is unacceptable for some sections of the boards to be too thin in thickness. The bark was removed, each plank was given piquant contours with a jigsaw, the surface was polished. In general, the cheap price of the material is covered by painstaking work.




I recommend copying this design exactly in relation to the original, or first create a project (span diagram) of the entire fence, choosing an alternation of drawings. And only after making sure that the whole canvas of the fence looks harmonious, proceed to implementation.

Do not get carried away with such a bright texture for all the wooden elements of the yard. Exclusive only wins when it is unique.

A house or plot without a fence is like a general without an army: it looks completely undignified. In addition, the fence serves as a guard against stray animals and partly from unwanted guests of the human race. Today there are many materials for creating a protective structure - brick, concrete and metal products, mesh, but wood is still in great demand. Previously, supports made of the same material were used for wood, today they install a wooden fence on metal poles.

Features of wooden fences

The tree is always in demand, because it has a lot of undeniable advantages:

  • Naturalness.
  • Decorative.
  • Aesthetics.
  • Unique color and texture.
  • Low cost in comparison with fences made of other materials.
  • Excellent compatibility with the architectural style of any building.
  • Ease of erection.
  • Variety of options.

This list can be continued for a very long time. Of course, like any other material, wood has its drawbacks, namely, relative fragility. But this problem is currently being solved. There are many protective and antiseptic products for wood products, the use of which will significantly extend the life of the fence.

Properties of metal products

The advantages of supporting metal products include:

  • Ease of installation work.
  • Reliability and durability of a design.
  • Strength.
  • Stability against static and dynamic loads.
  • The ability to use any method of fixation.

The disadvantages of metal piles include the following: if the price of the fence is used, it will increase significantly, but given that the use of metal supports will significantly extend the life of the fence, then such a disadvantage is not.

Types of pipe sections

Metal poles are produced with different sections:

  • square. Such products are easily mounted in sections and are distinguished by a reliable connection. Parameters: height - 2.5-4.0 m, overall dimensions of the sides - 6-10 cm, wall thickness - 0.2-0.4 cm.
  • Round. If a metal pipe with a circular section is used, the price of the supports will be somewhat lower, since they are cheaper than analogues of other types. Also, the use of products with a circular cross section makes it possible to select products of the desired thickness and diameter. Parameters: wall thickness - 2.5-3.5 mm, diameter - 5.7-10.8 cm, height - from 2.5 to 4.0 m.
  • Rectangular. From the square section, these products are distinguished only by the shape, so all the characteristics are similar.

Material protection

In order to be able to stand for more than a dozen years, it is necessary to protect not only the main material, but also the elements of the metal fence. To do this, you need to cover the pillars with special paint. This will protect the metal from corrosion and mechanical damage. To prevent moisture from precipitation from getting inside the pipes, metal caps can be put on the upper end.

The use of anti-corrosion technologies will help to preserve the original quality of the material and its original appearance for a long time.

Plot marking

Before proceeding with the manufacture of the fence, it is necessary to make markings. To do this, first, where it is planned to make a wooden fence on metal poles, you need to remove shrubs, trees, and other objects that may interfere. If necessary, you need to level the surface of the soil. Only now is the marking done. You need to do the following:

  • Drive in pegs at the extreme points of the future fence.
  • Stretch a string between them.
  • Mark the places where the fence supports will be installed. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that they are located strictly on the same line and at a distance of no more than 2.5-3 m. Otherwise, over time, the fence will begin to sag and lose its proper appearance.

Features of fastening support products in the soil

There are several ways to fix metal pipes in the soil, which allows you to choose the most suitable option.

If you are building a wooden fence on metal poles with your own hands, it is cheapest to hammer pipes into the ground. To do this, a guide is installed inside these elements. Two people are needed to complete the work: one clogs, and the other scrupulously controls the verticality of the support. Alternatively, you can not clog the pipes, but dig in, having previously prepared a well with a drill, then install the pipe and tamp the ground well.

The following mounting options are more laborious, but also more reliable:

  • concreting
  • Mounting on a concrete plinth.
  • Use of screw piles. For complex and this is a great solution to many installation problems.

Installation of supports

Remarkably, the rules listed below are suitable for mounting supports made of different materials:

  • It is necessary to deepen the supports by at least 1/4 of the entire product. This will ensure their secure fixation in the soil. After that, so that the pillars do not loosen over time, you can first fill around them using crushed stone or brick chips, and then concrete. Further work can be continued only after the concrete hardens.
  • They begin work by installing the extreme corner piles, carefully setting them in height. Subsequent columns are installed on the same level as the previous one. To avoid any unwanted changes, you can dig instead of the extreme posts of the rail to save the height indicator, stretch the string between them and then install the rest of the supports, focusing on the desired height mark.

  • How the poles should be installed - above the future fence, below or level - depends on the choice of the owner himself. But according to the recommendations of experts, a wooden fence on metal poles should be installed so that the supports rise above the picket fence by several centimeters.
  • To prevent the wind from turning the fence on rocky, sandy and non-rocky soils, it is necessary to deepen the supports by at least half the height of the fence.
  • Expanding the lower end of the post will increase its strength and durability. This extension will serve as a welded cross.
  • After all the pillars are installed, small cones can be made from the concrete solution at their base to drain water.

Picket fence installation

When all the supports are installed, you can weld fasteners to them, on which the transverse bars - runs - will then be fixed. Alternatively, you can weld the mount earlier and only then install the poles. But then you also need to make sure that all fasteners are at the same level and create a single line, only in this way it will be possible to attach runs without any problems.

Depending on what material the transverse bars are made of - wood or metal profile - the choice of fasteners also depends. If a wooden fence is fastened to metal poles using a metal profile, then it itself can be welded to the fastener, and wood products are fixed with bolts or self-tapping screws. If the transverse bars are made of wood, then they are fixed to the mount with bolts, but the picket fence is fixed with ordinary nails. The main thing at the same time is to ensure that there are no distortions or other violations. This can be done using a level, and the height can be checked using the same stretched string.

The picket fence can be mounted either closely or with a small (or large) gap according to the chosen design. How to decorate the top of the fence? It can be anything - horizontal, at an angle, wavy. At the same time, the second and third options are preferable, since due to the convex surface of the picket fence, moisture will not accumulate on its surface, as a result, the fence will serve a much longer period of time.

It remains only to make and install the gate and gate. They can be made of wood, corrugated board, pipes, forging, since a wooden fence on metal poles goes well with any of them. The cost of the entire structure will depend on the choice of not only the material of the gate and wicket, but also on all elements of the structure.