How to make a fence from various types of boards with your own hands. Do-it-yourself wooden fence: we make a beautiful wooden fence step by step Do-it-yourself solid wooden fence

22.11.2019

Reading time ≈ 12 minutes

Since ancient times, people have protected their property from others and used for this various materials. But the tree was and is one of the most popular types of raw materials for the manufacture of fences. Making a fence at home or in the country is not difficult. Next, we will tell you how to make a wooden fence in the country with your own hands, without resorting to the help of craftsmen and builders.

beautiful wooden fence

Unfortunately in our world strong fence not a tribute to fashion at all. It will protect your yard from unwanted guests, animals (goats, cows, chickens, and so on) and from many other adversities. Of course, fences can be of the most diverse format, but all the basic steps are the same for everyone. Which option you choose is up to you.

Fence selection

Often a fence is installed not only to delineate the boundaries of your land, but also to protect against those who want to covet your crop, property. And also to hide your life from strangers. At the present time, various building materials are available to everyone:

metal meshes;
a rock;
polycarbonate and more.

They differ in quality technical indicators and by cost. And the format itself depends only on your imagination. The grid will not protect from prying eyes, since it can only fence off something, and through the holes everything can be seen through. Modern popular materials are quite expensive and not everyone can afford. Stone and brick fences look too massive. heavy. Yes, and they are most often used for fences around large cottages and country houses.

If we talk about a wooden fence, then it is quite affordable, and besides, it looks beautiful. An indisputable plus is the fact that it can be built on your own.

When did they appear modern materials for fences (for example, corrugated board, reinforced concrete), then wooden fences began to be made less frequently. But still, this trend has changed recently, and the tree is regaining its position. After all, this material not only looks beautiful, but is also natural. Since there are no impurities of chemicals in the boards, and environmental friendliness today plays an important role.

Often, wood is used to build wooden fences. conifers, namely: pine and cedar varieties. Such breeds have high rates of moisture resistance, they resist decay processes well.

Benefits of building a wooden fence:

financial availability;
ease of operation - no special expensive equipment and skills are needed;
does not require special care during operation, it is only necessary to inspect it in a timely manner for damage and contamination;
required for repair minimum investment means and forces;
ease of updating the fence;
durable and lightweight;
looks exquisite.

All these facts indicate that it is more than realistic to create a fence cheaply and beautifully. For the correct construction of a wooden fence, you must follow the sequence of actions and have a little patience. But in the end, everyone can make a wooden fence in the country on their own, and then post a photo of the craft on the Internet.

The main advantage of wooden fences is, of course, its low price. When compared with fences made of metal or reinforced concrete, it is many times cheaper. Yes, wood is easy to work with. So even a novice can do it.

If speak about appearance, then wood has always been a noble material. Wood products always look presentable and aesthetically pleasing. In addition, such hedges are easy to change and decorate. Creating something unique is very simple, you just have to show imagination and creativity.

wooden fence design

With practical side pleased with the ease of repair. After all, for partial replacement you do not have to completely dismantle the entire fence structure, which greatly simplifies the whole process. After all, it would be inconvenient to replace one board to remove everything, along with the supports.

Despite such significant advantages, wooden fences have some nuances:

wood, as a building material, requires more frequent and careful attention to itself than other materials. This includes painting, cleaning, impregnation with disinfectants;
the operational period is relatively short - about 5-10 years (directly depends on how often it is looked after and repaired);
high fire hazard, since the tree ignites very well and burns quickly;
easily damaged by impact and mechanical influences;
will not protect against unwanted annoying guests and robbers (unless you install an additional security system, which in our time does not hurt at all).

Of course, the nuances must be taken into account in the construction and use of the material. But in this case, the pros far outweigh the cons. Therefore, it is logical that wooden fences are so common throughout the country. Knowing the features of its construction, the features of maintenance and repair, you can provide yourself with a beautiful protection of the yard for a long time.

Step by step construction of a wooden fence

If you don’t know how to make a wooden fence in the country with your own hands, then you just need to read the information below. Step-by-step detailed instructions will help you avoid mistakes and inaccuracies in your work, create a unique wooden fence that will be an excellent protection for your yard. Consider the principle of operation using the example of building a small fence, which is shown in the photo below.

Photo of a wooden fence

Wooden boards are used here, the cross section of which is 25 x 150 mm. Their length is two meters. Of course, you choose the length of the boards yourself, so it will be individual for everyone. The entire height of the finished fence will depend on the length of the boards. So, to build a fence, proceed to the first step of construction. Before you start work, you need to stock up on the necessary materials and tools:

long bars or logs;
planks, picket fence or boards made of wood;
posts or bars (necessary in order to create a support for the future fence);
rope twine;
pegs;
sand;
cement;
bitumen;
shovel;
manual or electric drill;
nails, screws.

Step 1.

Initially, you need to study well the features of your land and choose the best place for the location of the fence. After that, you need to stock up on pegs. Their length should be 60 cm. At one end they need to be pointed. Drive pegs into the ground around the entire perimeter of the site. The distance between them should be two meters. The last peg should be near the first. In other words, they need to be looped. At the end, stretch the rope with string on pegs. The rope must be well taut. So you get the layout of the future picket fence.

The location of the peg along the perimeter of the territory

Step 2

Need to choose optimal height future fence. When calculating the height, rely on the fact that:

too low fence provides good review your neighbors and all passers-by;
too high a fence obscures the plantings that are located in the yard.

It is better to choose average height indicators. Most often you can find fences, the height of which is in the range of 1.5 - 2.5 m. Having decided on the height, you need to cut the boards of the desired length. Also, to save time, you can order their cutting when buying material.

Before starting construction, the picket fence must be processed using a grinder or conventional drill(install the sanding attachment on it). To create curly or semicircular shapes, they are fixed on the machine and cut down to the desired parameters. This will save you money, because finished fence boards cost an order of magnitude higher than ordinary raw ones.

Step 3

It is necessary to take out the pegs one by one, and make wells in place of the holes formed. Their depth should be at least 50 cm. Support elements for the fence will later be installed in these wells. To make wells, take an electric drill or a manual one (but it will take longer to work with it).

Step 4

The prepared support elements must be installed in the created wells. For these purposes, you can use various materials: wooden beams, iron posts, and so on. It is better to take wooden bars, the cross section of which is 5 x 5 cm or 7.5 x 7.5 cm.

The supports must be installed in the ground, but be careful that their position is strictly vertical. Use a plumb line or level to control. After installation, you need to fill the hole with earth and at the same time tamp it well. To make the fence on your land as strong as possible, the supports can be concreted or cemented. After all, the reliability and general condition of the fence directly depends on how firmly the supporting elements are installed.

Installation of fence posts

Step 5

To level the fence in height, you need to loop the top. To do this, a nail is hammered into each support. Then, with the help of a rope, tightly tighten all the bars into a pile.

Step 6

The next step is to install the veins. For this, wooden boards are used. It is better to take a section of 100 x 25 mm. The veins must be arranged so that they are at the same distance from each other. Their height should be about 20 - 30 cm above the ground. Veins are attached to the beams with screws or nails. The main thing is that their size allows you to break through the vein through the entire thickness and protrude from the back side by two to three centimeters. Those parts of the fasteners that protrude outward should be carefully bent so that they do not interfere.

Vein installation

Step 7

Using nails or screws right size, you need to independently install the prepared boards for the fence. How to do this is up to you. There are various options:

Classic fence. This species is most often found in the vastness of our country. This design consists of a log (laid longitudinally) and vertical support posts.

Classic wooden fence

Lattice. It can be created on the basis of a rectangular or square frame. The fence itself resembles sections. At the right angle, rails are attached to the frame. And already the second layer is installed pillars (perpendicular). This is what creates the grid effect. finished fence looks quite interesting, and provides full ventilation.

Lattice-style fence

Ladder. This is a variant of a double-sided wooden fence. It's pretty easy to create. It is necessary to attach the vertical logs to the longitudinal ones. And then attach the boards so that they overlap.

Wooden fence-ladder

Chess. It resembles the classic version of the fence, but the difference is that the crate does not fit one after the other, but in a checkerboard pattern. Having built such a fence in your home, you will maintain full ventilation and well hide the yard from prying eyes;

Fence-chess

Vertical fence. It is most often made for fencing small areas, such as: a flower bed, beds and other markings in the yard. Its main task is to protect the plantings from the raids of pets;
Monolithic or deaf: the boards are nailed tightly to each other. In this case, you need to nail the boards end-to-end;

Deaf wooden fence

Palisade: can be replaced wooden planks on rails of small thickness (section 20 x 50 mm).

Step 8

On this, the manufacture of a wooden fence comes to an end. After installation, take time to protect the fence. After all, he will have to withstand changing weather conditions and other external factors.

It is necessary to carefully process the entire fence with drying oil and allow to dry. After the drying oil is completely dry, you need. Use frost-resistant acrylic paint. The painting itself is best done in two layers. When the first dries well, cover with the second. Such simple actions will help you keep the fence safe and sound for more than one year.

Design solutions

Upon completion of the work, everyone wants to make the fence a unique creation and somehow decorate it. In fact, wood is such a versatile material that even unpainted looks good. Some prefer to simply paint the fence using a solid color. Others draw patterns and ornaments that always attract the attention of passers-by.

Fence with a painted pattern

It should be noted that by itself wooden beam well suited to any design and landscape solution. Moreover, you can always change its design style. Often you can find fences that are not painted, but simply varnished. This gives national flavor and zest.

Wooden fence in national style

Do you want to make a wooden fence in the country, as in the photo? Then do not think that the work is over. Like any other structure, fences require attention. Therefore, you need to constantly inspect it. The better you take care of it, the longer it will serve you. The following recommendations must be followed:

You should not start replacing boards or timber in case of failure, because this way the fence will deteriorate even faster. Timely repair and proper operation will make your fence not only beautiful, but also durable.

To hide your yard and garden from the encroachments of other people's pets, the views of passers-by and create comfort in the yard, a wooden fence, which you can make with your own hands without much effort, will come in handy more than ever. It is easy to create and easy to care for. And as a result, you will get a beautiful and affordable fence that will delight you and your family. And if you want to learn even more tricks and wisdom about building a wooden fence at home, then watch the video below.

The construction of a beautiful fence is the logical conclusion to the design of home ownership, protection from other people's indiscreet looks and decoration of the site. The decision to make a wooden fence with your own hands, despite the cheapness, requires preparation and accurate calculation.

Wooden fence: advantages and disadvantages

Wood is one of the most attractive materials for making a fence, however, it is capricious in operation, and the durability of a fence made of this material largely depends on the choice of wood type.

For the manufacture of the simplest picket fence, coniferous woods are usually chosen, which are cheap and less prone to decay. Of course, no one will forbid making a fence made of oak or beech, but such a fence will cost a pretty penny.

Advantages of wood:

Environmental friendliness;
Availability of the material;
Low cost;
Ease of processing and installation;
High decorative.

Material disadvantages:

Fragility (some breeds);
Tendency to crack;
Rotting in conditions of high humidity;
fire hazard;
Pest damage.

Since some of the shortcomings can be eliminated by various impregnations, wood for fencing is most often chosen.

Varieties of wooden fences

For thousands of years, wood has been the only building material, our ancestors have accumulated vast experience in using wood for various purposes, including fences.

The figure shows the most common picket fence designs, but this is the most simple design from the boards - a picket fence, in addition to it, from a tree they perform:

wattle;
boardwalk;
pole;
palisade;
panel;
ranch.

With a little imagination, any of these fences can be made calling card plot, and, explaining the way to the guests, the neighbors will say: this is where the fence is beautiful (unusual, stunning, unique)!

Examples of options in the photo

A low fence opens a playground on the site to the neighbors A fence of boards arranged in a checkerboard pattern blocks the view of the site A braid of boards at an angle can serve as a support climbing plants Passing by such a fence, you involuntarily smile The fence pattern is made in such a way that a high fence is made from short dies A picket fence, supplemented with end saw cuts of a tree, becomes a blank fence Mirror film, pasted on pickets, turns an ordinary fence into an art object There is no place for pests in a garden with such fences.

Construction preparation

Even such a seemingly simple matter as fencing a site with your own hands requires:

preliminary acquaintance with the normative documentation;
project development;
determining the need for materials;
budgeting.

Current regulations

The standards for the construction of fences for suburban areas are prescribed in SP 53.13330.2011 "SNiP" 30-02-97 * "Planning and building up the territories of gardening (summer) associations of citizens. Buildings and constructions":

Fences between sections should have a height of no more than 1.5 m, mesh or lattice;
By decision general meeting members of the partnership, the fencing of the site from the side of the street or passage may be deaf, but not higher than 2.2 meters;
The distance between the fence supports is taken 2-3 meters;
Each rack requires a point foundation with a depth of 0.8 to 0.9 meters;
Recommended racks - from metal rectangular pipes with a section of 4x6 centimeters.

In addition to the general requirements for the state, local authorities can introduce their own standards, therefore, before starting the design, it is advisable to consult the regional service in charge of the general plan.

Design

Having defined the requirements, you can start designing. The basis for the project will be the cadastral plan of the site, indicating the boundaries. According to the plan, the total length of the perimeter and the size of each side are calculated separately. These dimensions will allow you to calculate the number of sections of the fence and the size of the additional sections. On a separate sheet of paper, a diagram of the site is applied on a scale, indicating all sizes. Do not forget about the gate for entry and the gate for entry.

When constructing a wooden fence, experts recommend making the distance between the supports no more than 2.5 meters, since with an increase in the span, the deflection of the horizontal crossbars increases, which can cause deformation of the structure.

We apply all dimensions to the drawing of an ordinary section of the fence, including the underground part of the pillar

For an ordinary section with a height of one and a half meters, a drawing is also being developed.

Having decided on the type of fence, draw separately typical section fence in scale, including the foundation for the support, with all dimensions.

The bottom line of the railing should be raised 10–15 cm above ground level, the posts should exceed the railing by 10 cm or more.

We accept for corner supports, gate posts and gates a pipe with a section of 60x60 mm, intermediate 40x60 mm. If the soil is in the area of neutral acidity, and the level ground water below one and a half meters, the racks can be installed by partial concreting or backfilling. In this case, the racks are buried in the soil to a depth of 0.8–1.2 meters, but not less than a fourth of their total height.

Material selection

From a huge number of types of wood for fences, it is best to choose conifers:

they grow everywhere;
due to the saturation of the structure with resin, the wood is resistant to moisture and solar radiation;
have a low cost.

Of course, you can make a fence of ash or oak, it will be more durable than a fence of spruce or pine, but such a fence will cost a pretty penny. The best choice- larch, the most resistant to moisture of all conifers, which has an adequate price.

If desired, in addition to edged boards, the fence can be made of cheaper materials - slab or unedged boards. Improvised materials may also come in handy - sawmill waste, dead wood, pallets (pallets), old door leafs or window frames.

Care must be taken to use old pallets: they are often made from hardwood wood, such as birch, which does not tolerate moisture and rots in the air.

Calculation of the need for materials

The calculation of the required amount of materials is carried out based on the geometric dimensions of the site. Suppose the area has square shape 30x30 meters in size, fenced on three sides with a picket fence 1.5 meters high, from the side of the passage - a blank fence 2 meters high, with a gate 2.5 meters wide and a gate 1 meter wide. The depth of soil freezing is 1.4 meters, the aquifer is at a depth of 3.3 meters.

Based on the size of the site, we determine the need for materials

Racks from a pipe with a section of 60x60 mm, height 3.0 m

The length of the fence along the driveway

L1= 30–(2.5+1)=26.5 m

Number of racks

L1: 2.5 + 1+2 =26.5: 2.5 +3= 13.6

Since we have an additional section, we take the number of racks equal to 14.

To seal the ends of the racks, you will need a strip of 100 x 4 mm, 100 mm long, with a total length of 9.8 m.

The total length of the picket fence with a height of 1.5 m:

The number of racks from a pipe with a section of 40x60 mm and a height of 2.5 m will be:

L2: 2.5 -1 = 90:2.5 - 1 = 36 –1= 35 pcs.

We carry out horizontal logs from a board with a section of 40x100 mm long:

L3= 2.5 - 0.07 = 2.43 m

The number of lags is equal to the number of ordinary sections of the fence, multiplied by two:

(12 x 3 + 10) x 2= 92

For an additional section with a width of 1.5 m, two boards 40x100 with a length of 1.43 m are needed.

We fasten the logs to metal corners from a 30x3 profile, each 60 mm long, the total number is 94 pieces, equal to the number of logs.

For a fence 1.5 m high, we take planks 10 cm wide, 22 mm thick, 1.35 m high with a gap of 4 cm between the planks, 17 pickets are required for an ordinary section, the total number:

17 x 46 +10 = 792 pcs.

For a blind fence 2 m high, planks 10 cm wide, 1.85 m high, 25 mm thick are needed. Their number will be equal to 25 pieces. per section, total:

25 x 11 = 275 pcs.

In addition, you will need self-tapping screws for attaching the corners to the uprights and crossbars to the corners, nails for attaching the fence to the crossbars.

For foundations, based on the depth of pits of 1 m with a diameter of 40 mm, 6 - 6.5 m3 of crushed stone will be required.

Volume of wood:

Boards 40x100 mm - 92 x 2.5 x 0.1 x 0.04 +2 x 1.5 x0.1 x 0.04 = 0.94 m3
Boards 100x22 mm - 1.5 x 0.1 x 0.022 x 792 = 2.38 m3
Boards 100x25 mm - 2 x 0.1 x 0.025 x 275 = 1.38 m3

Metal volume:

Racks 60x60 - 3.0 x 14 \u003d 42 m.p.
Racks 40 x 60 - 2.5 x 35 \u003d 87.5 m.
Corner 30 x 3 60 mm long - 94 x 0.06 \u003d 5.64 m.
Steel strip 100 x 4 - 9.8 m.

Wood will require impregnation and paint or a complex composition that protects wood from pests, adverse weather conditions and fire. For metal, a layer of soil is required, waterproofing for the underground part of the racks and a protective coating.

Since the fence boards do not do any work, the choice of thickness is determined by the flexibility. From experience it is known that for horizontal boards - a lag of 100 x 40 mm is enough, for a fence 1.5 m high with two attachment points, a board 22 mm thick is suitable, for a height of 2 m - a board 25 mm thick.

Required Tools

To complete the foundations, you will need a garden earthen drill or you will have to dig holes 1–1.2 meters deep and 40 cm in diameter manually.

The toolbox includes:

Electric jigsaw;
Circular saw with discs for metal work;
Welding machine;
Electroplaner;
Electric drill with drills for metal and wood;
Hacksaw for wood;
A hammer;
Pliers;
Screwdrivers;
Universal wrench;
Building level, horizontal and vertical;
Roulette;
Cord or twine;
Brushes.

Installation of a fence, step-by-step instructions for building a do-it-yourself

The fencing of the site is carried out in several stages:

Rack preparation;
Installation of fence sections;
Marking in kind of the fence;
Excavation;
Installation of racks;
Fencing installation.

There is another method of installation, when all elements are fixed in place sequentially, without preparation. This method has the right to exist, however, it will take more time, and it is inconvenient to mount corners for attaching lags to the installed rack.

1. Preparing racks

For each rack, in accordance with the drawing, for ordinary racks on the long sides, two corners are attached to self-tapping screws, for corner racks - on two adjacent sides. Plates - plugs are welded to the ends of the racks. The welds are cleaned, the racks are covered with primer, then with paint.2. Installation of picket fence sections

Pegs or reinforcement are driven into the installation site of the corner posts

A cord or twine is pulled along the perimeter of the site between the corner pegs. Using a tape measure, determine the installation sites of ordinary racks.

4. Earthworks

With a garden drill we make a hole 1–1.2 m deep for corner posts and fence posts along the driveway, a hole 0.8–1 m deep for the remaining posts. At the bottom of the pit we pour sand with a layer of 0.1 - 0.2 m, and compact it well.

5. Installation of racks

We carry out waterproofing of the underground part of the racks, wrapping them with bitumen-polymer material on mastic or covering them with a special waterproofing compound for metal. We install the racks, fixing them in the recesses with the help of pieces of reinforcement or corners. We fill the crushed stone with a layer of 20 - 25 cm, check the verticality of the support, tamp it down, moisten the layer with water. The operation is repeated until the pit is leveled with the ground surface.

6. Installation of the fence

We mount the prepared fence panels. If the posts are installed correctly, at the right distance, height and without distortion, the fence sections are mounted without problems. Fence logs are installed on the corners fixed on the racks, and screwed with self-tapping screws.

7. Painting the fence

Painting and protection of fence wood can be carried out different ways to which the next section is devoted.

Materials for protecting and tinting wood

Until recently, wood stain, drying oil and PF-115 paint were offered to protect and color wood, but now eyes widen on the shelves of stores with such products. Wood coloring should have the following qualities:

Resistance to low and high temperatures, precipitation, wind;
Resistance to sunlight;
Resistance to pests, rot and fungus;
Durability;
Fire safety.

For protection and tinting, compositions are offered:

Paints;
Enamel;
azure

Belinka, Slovenia;
Tikkurila, Finland;
ALPINA, Germany;
Teknos, Finland;
AQUATEX, RF;
Yaroslavl colors.

In order for the fence to serve for a long time, you will have to work hard: processing takes place in several stages:

dirt cleaning,
grinding;
Dust removal;
Primer with a complex composition that gives wood fire resistance, resistance to rot, fungus;
tinting.

There are many options for painting the picket fence, if you wish, you can add your own method to the existing ones.

AT last years more and more often you can see not only new wooden houses but also fences. The people take such a step consciously: the products are very beautiful. They even agree to tint them regularly, and how long it stays, it stays so long. If you are one of those wood lovers, you may find photo reports of how people built a wooden fence with their own hands useful. They are usually used interesting solutions. Perhaps not always 100% correct, but working.

Photo report 1: a regular fence made of boards (fence)

This fence was put up with periodic help - sometimes hired, sometimes voluntary assistants, but most of the fence was assembled by the owner with his own hands. The boards were first processed, then brought to the site ready for use.

The main work was done before winter - pits were dug with a rented motor drill. The main thing is to make sure that the drill is not sharpened. Then the process is difficult even on normal soil. This is how it was for us: the first day we drilled only 6 holes and became discouraged: how much is everything else to do? Well, the neighbor suggested to replace the blade. With the new cutting part, all the rest were done in daylight hours. Drilled a little below the freezing depth of the soil. It freezes by 1.2 meters, the depth of the holes is 1.3 meters (reinsurance “just in case”), the distance between the holes is 3 m. The result was smooth.

After that, a bucket of rubble was poured into the holes, a sleeve was inserted from a roofing material rolled up in two layers. Pillars 60 * 60 mm with a wall of 3 mm were inserted into this sleeve. Sections of reinforcement were previously welded to them below - so that they would hold better, and also a “magpie” corner for fastening future logs. The pillars before installation, or rather long before it, are sanded and covered first with anti-rust, then with two layers of paint.

The most important thing is to correctly set the pillars. They also did this with a cord. We set the corner posts strictly according to the level. First, one was set up so that it stuck out 1.8 meters, then it was transferred using a laser level to the second, which stands at the same level. This operation was repeated with all "steps". The braces and stops helped to hold the key pillars for the time being, they poured in. After the mortar had set, threads were pulled between the pillars - one at the top, marked the tops of the pillars, the second in the middle of the height - they were guided by it when setting the remaining pillars.

After all the pillars were poured with concrete (in a few days), they started pouring the basement. We made a portable formwork from pine boards. Rearranging it, gradually filled the basement. They didn’t dig deep - they only removed the sod. As a result, we got pillars, between which a concrete tape was poured.

The wood was dry, painted with an antiseptic composition, which lightened the color a little. Light boards. Support bars - logs - with a section of 50 * 100 mm were attached to the installed pillars. They deliberately set the bar on the top. Firstly, it looks more like it, and secondly, the ends of open-pore boards are protected. This bar was attached to the first leveled board and an auxiliary one, which was installed three meters later. Therefore, boards were attached to it one by one.

When installing the picket fence, it is important to install the first board strictly vertically. They checked it with a plumb line (I deceived the level a couple of times, so now we check it with a plumb line wherever the vertical is important). Next is the matter of technology. The boards were not mounted closely, but with a gap of 1.2 cm. In order for the gap to be maintained stably, a board (lining) of such thickness was found and a piece of the same length as the fence was cut off - 1.8 m. The work goes like this: we take the finished picket and lining strip. We apply the lining to the already nailed one, support it with a picket fence, level the top, then fasten it with two self-tapping screws to each log. As a result, the gap is the same. But such a trick is possible if the board has an ideal geometry.

Regarding the gap. The size (1.2 mm) turned out to be perfect. If you look from the outside, you can’t see anything, but from the inside, the street is clearly visible.

As for the advantages of a wooden fence: neighbors who were envious: in the summer it was cool in my yard, in them - like in an oven, all the flowers burned under the fence. We have a riot of colors until late autumn.

Photo report 2: horizontal fence made of unedged checkerboard board

This fence is like from a fairy tale. It was partially assembled independently by the owner of the site. The hired workers dug holes, put posts. Metal work - cutting poles and welding tops - the merit of a friend. Everything else, including the processing of the board and the assembly of the fence sections, was done by the hands of the owner and his wife (painting).

The unedged board was used with a thickness of 20 mm, smooth edges were polished on a fox mill (by agreement), the wane was removed independently and then polished with a machine, after which it was covered with a water-based antiseptic "Dufa", teak color. Applied with a wide brush in two layers. Here is the result of the work.

Metal profiled pipes of square section were used for the poles: 60 * 60 mm, wall thickness 3 mm. Edged boards 150 * 30 mm are attached to it on both sides. They fastened at a distance of 10 cm from the top, then at 100 cm and 190 cm. A “sandwich of two boards” was folded, drilled through, everything was fastened with a bolt with a self-centering washer.

Pillars with a total height of 3 m by 1 m are concreted into the ground. Exposed on a cord stretched between pre-installed control posts. The procedure is standard, the only unusual thing is that the top (2 meters that remain above the ground) is wrapped with a film. The decision turned out to be correct: after transportation and concreting, the film was dirty, and the wood underneath was clean. The film was removed after the concrete had dried.

The build order is:

Choose the first board with a flat bottom edge.
We measure the distance between the posts, saw off a piece from the board 1 cm shorter than the measured distance (so that they become normal).
We coat the sawn off end with an antiseptic.
We install the first board 5 cm above the ground, fix it with clamps. We twist two self-tapping screws (45 mm) into each edge from the inside.
Vertical setting. We find the middle, insert the bar, do not rest on the ground, the edge hangs. We fix with two screws in the upper part of the installed board.
Installing a new bar. It should overlap even the largest protrusion of the bottom. It also covers the screws that hold the middle bar.

This sequence is preserved until the very top. So the run is gradually gaining. Please note that the former wagons have beveled edges, they all look “outside”: so that raindrops roll out.

To get an even upper edge, they were selected, cut off, stained with an antiseptic, and fixed later - under the final, aligning all the tops in one line.

Photo report 3: wooden braided fence

Another option is made almost "solo". A do-it-yourself wicker wooden fence was assembled almost without outside participation. Sometimes the wife worked as assistants - painting the poles, the second assistant - the dog.

For horizontal fence from bent boards, which is also called braided, sometimes Austrian braided, the following materials were used:

for poles profile pipe 60*60 mm, installation step 2.7 m;
edged board, planed 100 * 20 mm, 6 m long;
intermediate beam 50 * 50 mm, but it is better to take less - it is more convenient to bend;

It was decided to paint the boards with an antiseptic with a dark pigment, the poles - light gray. From a distance on a dark background like stitches. Who does not like it - paint in tone with the boards.

Most of the time is spent painting and drying the boards. If they are ready, everything is assembled quite quickly: the fasteners are minimal, only the first board is attached to the level, the rest are put on it. Six-meter boards are braided around three pillars. Between the pillars, the distance is about 5.4 -5.5 m, the rest sticks out, but the result looks original.

It is more convenient to assemble a wicker fence from boards not with runs, but horizontally - weaving several boards along the entire length

The main focus is to weave the first three boards. Without intermediate bars, they simply fit: two on one side on the edge, one on the other. Then they need to be arranged so that they are one above the other. If there are two assistants, they hold the boards at the two nearest posts, and the third person bends the boards and inserts an intermediate beam. After the first three boards are installed, the bottom one is leveled and screwed to the posts (light the hole, then screw in the self-tapping screw).

If you are making a wicker wooden fence from boards with your own hands, it is more convenient during assembly not to fold in spans, but to go horizontally. First, the bottom three boards were braided to the full length, set the level and secured. Then they collected the rest - as the paint dried.

This is a front view. “Tails” are visible, where the boards end and begin, but they do not spoil the picture, but add zest

A simpler option - only three poles and shorter boards - is shown in the video. Here the pillars are made of wood, the technology of their installation is shown. Good video - the whole installation process is clear.

findings

All three examples clearly show two stages, which, if you make a wooden fence with your own hands, take a lot of time. The first is the installation of pillars and pouring the foundation or basement. The second is the work of preparing wood. If the site is new, not inhabited, there are problems with preservation, and the process of painting, and, moreover, grinding, is lengthy. It makes sense to buy wood in advance and prepare and process it in a workshop or garage. When the time comes to put up a wooden fence, take the finished material to the site immediately before installation.

If all the materials are ready, you can make a wooden fence with your own hands quite quickly. The installation of wood itself does not take very much time. Of the entire construction time, 40% of the time is spent on preparing the boards, another 20% on preparing the pillars if they are metal and 10% if they are wooden, another 20% on their installation (pillars). Accordingly, the assembly does not take much time.

Wooden fences undeservedly faded into the background. And absolutely in vain! Of course, in terms of stability and reliability, the fence made of boards significantly loses to its brick and concrete counterparts, but a minimum of time, effort and money is spent on the construction of a wooden fence.

At the same time, you can handle all the necessary activities on your own. By showing a little imagination and doing everything according to the instructions, you will create a truly original and interesting design.

What to build a fence from?

Before proceeding with the construction, we pay due attention to the choice of source material. For the arrangement of the fence we use only high-quality dense wood. The wood of oak, aspen, ash, Siberian larch, alder, mulberry is perfect.

Among all the listed options, the most interesting is the Siberian larch. A fence built from it will serve as long as possible. If one of the main enemies of most wood species is moisture, then larch only becomes stronger from contact with water.

We limit the use of pine except for the arrangement of the fence shield, in case of breakage or wear of the fence, such material can be replaced without much financial cost and effort.

Picket fence - pine

Important! And in no case do we use birch for the construction of the fence - it is extremely unstable and short-lived.

It is also important to choose quality material for making supports. With wooden spans, wooden poles will be best combined. You can either dig them into the ground or attach them to special metal stands (consoles) concreted in pre-created recesses.

Important! To prolong the life of wood, it must first be impregnated. It will reduce the intensity of the harmful effects of moisture, air, fungus and other harmful microorganisms on the building material.

To fix the effect, it is recommended to treat the wood with a special dye, for example, Swedish paint. It will give the material a very beautiful shade. If desired, a dye of a different color can be applied over the dried Swedish paint.

To prepare Swedish paint, we need:

copper sulfate - 250 g;
salt - 250 g;
iron minium - 250 g;
drying oil - 230 ml;
flour - 570 g;
water - about 4.5 liters.

Following the given proportions, you can prepare any required amount of dye.

The paint is quite economical. About 200-250 ml of dye is spent on covering 1 m 2 of the surface. The above recipe allows you to prepare a golden color paint. If you want to get a different shade, replace the minium with manganese peroxide, ocher, or another component of your choice.

Swedish paint is prepared in the following order:

paste is cooked. To prepare it, stir the flour in 3 liters of water;
the finished paste is passed through a sieve - this allows you to remove lumps from the mixture;
strained paste is again put on fire. Salt and copper sulfate are added to the mixture. Constantly stir the mixture, achieving complete dissolution of vitriol;
while continuing to stir the paste, add drying oil to it, and then pour in a certain amount of water (usually about 1.5 l) until a homogeneous liquid composition is obtained.

We apply the finished paint to the wood in a double layer.

Table. How to paint a wooden fence

Paints	Binder	Life time
Acrylic	Polyacrylate	6-20 years old
Water dispersion	organic solvents	>20 years
Oily	Drying oil	2-3 years
silicate	liquid incandescent glass	20 years
Silicone	silicone resin	20 years
Enamel	Alkyd resin	10 years

For example, you can assemble a fence according to the wattle principle. Boards are attached in a bent state. Trying to straighten up, they will fit snugly enough against the supporting pillars.

Another great option is to fill the space between the supports with wood siding. We fasten the sheathing boards, starting from the bottom, withstanding a 25 mm overlap.

The fences made in the form of blinds look no less original. By laying the boards with a downward slope towards the street, you will create an invisible fence that is resistant to wind loads.

Also, the boards can be nailed from the end. To perform the highest quality sheathing, we first make markings on each rack.

In the case of installing metal poles, they can be hidden by sheathing the racks on both sides. From above, we close the metal supports with wooden plugs.

If desired, you can make the fence more original and on wooden support posts. We make inclined grooves in the supports, and then insert the ends of the lamellas into them. Additionally, we fasten each bar with self-tapping screws. To hide the attachment points, we close the screws with wooden plates. top we crown the supports with plugs.

To make the fence look more original and modern, we can fill the boards with a small gap (up to 15 mm). At the same time, the narrower the boards will be (of course, within reasonable limits), the more interesting the design of the fence will turn out.

You can also use boards of different widths. When choosing this sheathing method, be sure to make sure that the pattern on adjacent sections matches.

There are a lot of options for decorating wood. Choose the one you like and start building the fence. You already have all the knowledge necessary for this.

Prices for different types of building boards

Building boards

Successful work!

Video - DIY wooden fence

Decorative fence with your own hands. A photo

In recent years, the fashion for wooden buildings has led to the fact that more and more developers are thinking that a metal fence may not be the best solution. In terms of durability, maybe yes, but in terms of aesthetics, it is inferior to wood. The wooden fence has somewhat lost its popularity due to its short life: wood, with constant exposure to the sun and water, quickly collapses. To increase the service life, the protective coating in the form of paint has to be constantly updated. With a large length, it takes a lot of time and requires a considerable amount of paint. This problem has become less acute, since the new antiseptics that have recently appeared can extend the life of the fence, and also guarantee the durability of staining for several years. The term is different - from 2-3 years, to 5-7. It depends on the type of antiseptic impregnation and the manufacturer, but finding "long-playing" ones is not difficult: in any more or less large store.

Moreover, these impregnations do not paint over the texture of the tree: all the veins are visible. They just change color, usually to a darker one. Such a fence made of wood looks solid and rich. Even a simple picket fence, and even a difficult one, even more so.

What is important is that you can put up a wooden fence with your own hands alone, if necessary, even without the involvement of assistants. Another important thing: a significant part of the work - the preparation of wood - can be carried out not on the spot, but, say, in a garage or workshop. And start it long before the start of construction. For example, from autumn to spring, and the construction itself should be started already when the weather is warm.

Wood is a very plastic material and the simplest thing can be done so that it looks like a work of art. This is true for fences as well. If you wish, you can make such a “candy”, which is a pleasure to look at. There are several designs of wooden fences.

Fence

The simplest is the picket fence. This is a set edged boards or strips of the same, as a rule, width, which are nailed vertically to two or more transverse rails.

Scheme of a wooden fence made of vertically nailed boards - picket fence

The shape of the top may differ. A 90° floor cut is the easiest option, but far from the best, and not only in terms of aesthetics. The top of such a fence, even painted, is exposed to intense moisture, as a result, the coating in this place is destroyed first. And the wood pores in the perpendicular cut remain open. Rain, fog, melting snow / ice are absorbed by them, which leads to the destruction of wood. To avoid this, cut the tops not at 90 degrees, but at 45 degrees. If you look at such a board in profile, then the top will be beveled (see the figure below).

The distance between two adjacent fences is chosen according to your desire. You can make a solid fence, fitting one close to the other, you can make it translucent, leaving a gap of 1-2 cm, or you can make it completely transparent - with a large distance equal to the width of the boards or even more. Such options are popular for internal fences, which are more designed to separate zones and mark boundaries than to protect from something. For outdoor fences facing the street, they usually choose a solid installation, maybe with a very small distance so that the boards do not “swell” in wet weather.

Sawn tops add variety. They can be sharpened in different ways - with a rounded top, in the form of peaks, triangles, trapezoids. All this in different options and combinations.

Rounded top is the most popular It's coming soon openwork fence, but decorative - exactly Tops in the form of lilies - the fence will be beautiful Peaks and triangles - in combination and independently

Some even make truly works of art: a carved fence requires a lot of perseverance. The work is painstaking, but the result is worth it.

Carved fence slats - beauty Beauty - carved wooden fence

Make curly tops faster and easier with a template. Cut out a sample from a sheet of plywood, bring it to perfect condition. Then cut out all the rest according to this pattern. You can cut with a jigsaw or on a milling machine.

A jigsaw for such a case can be bought. All the same, even taking into account this expense item, it will turn out cheaper than buying ready-made carved pickets. The downside here is that it takes a lot of time, and the pickets turn out to be unequal: either the file will go a little to the right, then a little to the left. The edges then still have to be processed with sandpaper.

Buying a milling machine, if you don’t plan to use it later, is unprofitable. And those who already have one can buy cutters with a floating head and make a figured picket fence with it. The height of the cutting part of the cutter is equal to the thickness of the board that you will be processing, and the head rests against the template.

In both cases, you will have to somehow fix the template on the workpiece. This can be done with thin nails or by sticking double-sided tape on the template.

But if you approach the process creatively, then even from even thin planks you can make a beautiful wooden fence: nailing it at different angles.

The authors of this wooden fence made it even simpler: they only made the height non-linear, emphasizing the relief with a plank nailed on top. This, by the way, is the second way to significantly increase the life of a wooden fence - the plank blocks access for water to the most vulnerable open cross sections). Also, non-linearity is given by planks nailed to the surface in the form of frames, and the wood inside is painted in a lighter color. Agree, original.

Wooden fence "checkerboard" or "chess"

In fact, this is one of the subspecies of the picket fence. The boards are stuffed alternately on one side, then on the other side of the crossbar. It turns out an interesting three-dimensional view.

The principle of installing shtaketin in the fence "checkerboard" or "chess"

If you look at such a fence exactly opposite, it looks like a deaf one, if to the side, then at a certain angle some part of the yard will be visible through the gap. The degree of transparency is regulated by the entry of one bar after another. You can make it so that the visibility will be zero. For example, with a plank width of 10 cm, make the distance between them no more than 6 cm. Here, no matter how you look, nothing is visible. The disadvantage is the high consumption of wood. But the fences are very beautiful, especially in combination with brick or stone pillars and figuratively made tops.

Checkerboard on the plinth - such a fence looks gorgeous

They make horizontal fences from chessboards. But here you need to keep in mind that it is very convenient to climb on such a fence: boards are like steps. True, any fence is not such a serious obstacle. Rather, it is a protection from prying eyes than from serious assassination attempts.

Wooden fence - horizontal checkerboard

Such "chess" looks decent and solid. Pillars can be anything: metal, wood, stone, concrete. If metal poles are installed, they are made from a profiled thick-walled pipe (3 mm). Above ground level, from the front and back, they are sewn up with boards (to the pillars with bolts or self-tapping screws), which are larger than the width of the profile: they should protrude on the sides by 3-6 cm. Thus, we get guides into which the boards are inserted. The boards are then fastened from the inside to the sheathing of the pillars.

Fence "Herringbone"

Another type of horizontal fence is called a herringbone. It is named so because the boards are stacked close to one another, and with an overlap on the one below. In profile, it looks like a Christmas tree, as children draw it.

wooden fences"herringbone" create a continuous coating

It is more difficult to climb up such a fence. Please note that there is a protective visor on top. It protects the most vulnerable part of the fence, greatly extending its life, as well as pushing back the time for the next painting. After all, usually the top and bottom of the coating is the most damaged. From below, this fence is protected by a plinth, from above - by a visor.

Wooden fences "blinds"

They differ from those described above in that the boards do not adjoin one another. They are fixed at an angle, but with some clearance. This type of fence does not create a solid wall and the yard can be viewed, although this will require you to sit down or even lie down - depending on the angle of inclination.

A fence called "blinds" - looking at its device, you will understand why

This type of fence is very uneconomical - wood consumption is usually high. The assembly is also difficult: fasten a bar (corner) under each board or cut a notch in the post.

But with this construction, good ventilation of the site is ensured. This is important if the climate or terrain is humid. You can’t install a solid fence: there will be a puddle under it and the dirt in the yard will never dry out.

Wicker from the board - a beautiful fence

The fence made of boards bent between the pillars looks unusual. They are intertwined between the pillars like a traditional wattle fence. They only make it from long boards.

Fence "braid" from the board

Most often they are found in a horizontal version. There are fewer joints and bending long spans is easier.

There are also vertical braids. To give them a finished look, planks are nailed at the top and bottom - they both hold the edges of the boards and protect them from bad weather.

How to make such beauty, see the video. It's really easy, but it takes a lot of strength.

lattice fences

A wide variety of gratings are made from thin, and not very thin, slats: with different angles, frequency of slats, etc. These fences play a rather decorative role and are used either for indoor fencing - the waters of the thief, in the garden - or for the main entrance - to mark the borders, but not cover the beauty.

Fence made of wooden planks lattice "in a cage" Lattice fence made of boards - looks serious Double planks - such a lattice fence looks interesting

Photo of beautiful fences

You just wonder what beauty people can make from a piece of wood. Really beautiful. And some, while not very complex.

Maybe someone will be inspired by these photos of old wooden fences, they can be repeated ...

Disappearing beauty...