How long does freesia take to grow? Growing freesia in the garden and at home. Freesia care in the garden

03.04.2020

Why do freesia bulbs not germinate?

When the corms of a flower are planted, you should not expect an instant return. In nature, they “sleep” for 3-4 months and only then begin to give small sprouts. Freesia is very capricious about temperature changes, the most favorable conditions for its development are soil temperature - 13-15ºС, air - 18-20ºС. The reasons why freesia bulbs do not germinate are quite numerous. The most common of them can be called:

lack of significant warm-up time before landing;
low air humidity during storage;
the presence of infection, corm disease;
sudden heat or cold after disembarkation;
heavy soil, lack of fertilizer, improper watering.

The bulbs of the plant for a long time before planting must be warmed up at high humidity air. If a Environment will be dry, this will lead to shrinkage planting material. Bulbs will lose the energy necessary not only for development, lush flowering but also growth. In this case, the corms are removed from the ground and for use on next year they are separated from the daughter bulbs, which were formed in the ground. In the case when the planting material in the soil rots, loses its healthy appearance, the cause may be a latent infection hiding in it. Especially often, such "surprises" await flower growers who bought corms in specialized stores.

Freesia Care Rules

It happens that all conditions are met, the soil is light, the warm-up period is observed, the air and soil temperatures do not change abruptly, the humidity is high, and the freesia does not germinate or gives weak, unviable sprouts. In an open area, the plant could be attacked by spider mites, thrips or aphids. In this case, the location of the bulb is treated with insecticides, you can also resort to folk ways. For example, the preparation of a tincture consisting of tobacco and water.

Additionally, freesia is prone to various diseases such as scab, fusarium, and decay. To prevent such phenomena, the basic rules of disembarkation are observed:

sorting of planting material with culling of affected corms;
thorough rinsing and drying natural way;
disinfection with actellik, potassium permanganate, phytosporin solution or folk remedies;
drying, storage and heating before planting.

Wondering why freesia bulbs do not germinate, we must not forget about the rules of daily watering the plant. For this, it is used warm water but not from the tap. Perfect option- dial it into a spare container in the morning and let it brew until the evening. Watering the corm planting sites is carried out mainly in the evening, but no later than 5-6 hours, so that the roots absorb moisture before darkness and cold snap. At the same time, it is important that the bulbs are planted at a distance of 10-15 cm. Too close proximity can also cause a lack of sprouts.

- perennial bulbous herbaceous plant family Iris (Kasatikovye). Freesia is native to South Africa. Freesia flowers, resembling miniature gladiolus flowers, exude a marvelous aroma similar to that of lily of the valley.

For this similarity, the freesia was also called the Cape lily of the valley. For an amazing aroma, as well as the possibility of forcing freesia at home in wintertime, turn freesia into a favorite flower crop.

The color of graceful and delicate freesia flowers can be any: white, yellow, cream, pink, orange, red, blue, lilac, purple, sometimes with a contrasting spot in the throat of the flower. Freesia flowers are arranged in a row on a thin peduncle up to half a meter high. Freesia leaves are long, belt-shaped, bright green. Freesias reproduce in the same way as gladioli - by replacing corms and seeds.

Now it is not difficult to purchase planting material. Freesia corms are sold in flower shops and even supermarkets from spring to autumn. And it is quite possible to grow freesia in the garden.

Planting freesia

At planting freesia in open ground easier to maintain the required temperature. After all, the flowering of freesia depends on it. But initially, immediately after purchase, create “tropical” freesia corms: place the corms in a linen or perforated plastic bag and keep them in a warm place over a container of water. After some time, root embryos should form, and a peduncle is formed inside the corm. Immediately before planting, the temperature of the content of freesia corms is reduced to + 10 + 12 ° C. Also, before planting, it is advisable to disinfect the corms with a solution of phytosporin or other preparations for fungal diseases, spray the planting material with Actellik from pests, and treat with stimulating solutions for faster root formation. If there is nothing at hand, treat the corms with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Freesias need nutritious, moisture-permeable soils. Freesia responds very well to the introduction of rotted humus or compost and the addition of complete mineral fertilizer to the substrate. The optimal indicator of soil acidity (pH) for freesia is 6.0-6.8, that is, the soil should be neutral. To reduce the acidity of the soil, add dolomite flour to the arable layer or lime in the fall.

Freesia should be planted in open ground in mid-April, while the temperature of the topsoil is kept at + 10 + 15 ° C. If you miss the time for planting freesia in the ground, and the soil warms up a lot, this will lead to the death of the already formed buds of inflorescences, they stop growing in warm soil and dry out. Because of this, freesia, even if it germinates, will not be able to bloom. The depth of planting of freesia corms on light soil is 10-12 centimeters, on medium soil - 8-10 centimeters, on heavy, as well as too small corms are planted to a depth of 4-6 centimeters. For freesia, you need to choose a semi-shady place in the garden.

After planting, freesia should be watered abundantly and mulched with a thick layer of neutral peat. It will help retain the necessary moisture in the soil until full-fledged roots develop, because while there are no roots, freesia corms can rot from waterlogging.

At an air temperature of + 13 + 20 ° C, freesias germinate in 2-3 weeks. If at this time it gets very cold, then short peduncles can form, if, on the contrary, at high air and soil temperatures, leaves develop to the detriment of flowering.

When growing freesia you need to know that too hot (above 20 °) or very cold (2-3 °) weather will affect the deformation of freesia flowers, leading to the formation of empty buds.

Freesia Care

During the growth and development of leaves, budding and flowering, freesia is watered regularly and plentifully, once every two weeks they are fed with liquid complex fertilizers containing micro and macro elements.

In mid-August, the first freesia flowers bloom, and then your garden will be filled with a unique lily of the valley aroma. On one peduncle there are up to ten buds, sometimes one or two more lateral inflorescences can grow. The flowering of freesia in the garden lasts from mid-August to the end of September and does not suffer from the first possible frosts.

When planting freesia, immediately take care of the support for the peduncles (so as not to damage the corms in the ground later). Freesia flower stalks are very weak and can be very twisted.

Withered inflorescences must be removed in a timely manner, preventing the formation of seeds, so that the nutrients from the corm are not consumed, but go to the formation of a new replacement bulb.

When the leaves begin to turn yellow, freesia corms need to be dug out without waiting for the leaves to dry completely, otherwise you can simply lose the corms. In order to avoid the loss of planting material, you can plant freesia corms in containers, which will make it much easier to plant and dig up freesia corms: in spring, you need to bury containers with already planted freesias, and in autumn, just remove them from the ground. Planting in containers will allow you to find a better place in the garden in the future, where the freesias will be most comfortable.

After removing the freesia corms from the ground, it is necessary to sort out, clean from old scales and roots, discard diseased, damaged corms. Before placing the corms in storage, treat them with fungicides (phytosporin, foundationazole, Maxim) and insecticides to destroy all pests. After such treatment, the corms must be dried and stored under specific conditions: for three to four months, the corms must be stored at elevated temperatures (25-30 °) and in high humidity conditions.

Diseases and pests of freesia

In the garden, freesia flowers can be affected by aphids, spider mites, thrips. When they are found, it is necessary to treat the plants with insecticides or any folk remedies that help get rid of pests.

Freesia is also affected by diseases such as fusarium, various rot, scab. To prevent diseases, it is necessary to observe agricultural technology.

Watering is carried out only settled warm water rather than cold from the tap; freesia should be watered no later than five o'clock in the evening so that the leaves can dry out before nightfall. There should be space between adjacent plants. Stagnation of air in humid weather with strong condensation is detrimental to any plants.

If you notice signs of rot or fusariosis on freesia leaves, treat the plants with fungicides.

If freesias are affected by viral diseases that cause necrosis of flowers or leaves, you will have to get rid of infected plants, otherwise the virus may pass to neighboring ones.

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In nature, freesia corms before flowering are in a long-term (about 3-4 months) dormant state at high temperatures (about 30 degrees) and high humidity (about 70-80%), and then begin to vegetate and bloom in relatively cool conditions and adequate soil and air moisture. It is under all these conditions that freesia successfully develops and blooms. If the soil temperature after planting the corms is below 10 degrees, then the freesia flower stalks develop short or do not develop at all, and if it is above 20 degrees, then the leaves actively develop to the detriment of flowering; if above 25 degrees, freesia will not bloom at all. In favorable freesia growth conditions (soil temperature - about 15 degrees, air temperature - about 18 degrees, fluctuations of several degrees are acceptable), seedlings appear 2-3 weeks after planting.

Freesia corms may not germinate at all if they have not gone through a long period of warming up before planting, and low air humidity during storage can contribute to severe drying of the corms - as a result, they lose the energy necessary not only for flowering, but also for leaf growth. On such corms, after planting, small daughter corms can only form in the ground, from which, with proper storage and care, next year it can still be good. If purchased freesia corms had a latent infection (viruses, fungi), then they often rot after planting.
Since suppliers and sellers of imported planting material put them in the refrigerator for better preservation, freesia corms purchased in spring must undergo at least a short thermal preparation period under conditions of high temperature and humidity.
Freesias may also not bloom if after germination there was a strong cold snap (below +3 degrees) or hot weather (above 20 degrees) - and this is quite possible in the conditions of central Russia.
For active growth and full flowering, freesias require light fertile soil, regular abundant moisture during the growing season (watering is gradually reduced after flowering ends, and completely stopped before digging corms). To preserve moisture in the soil, freesia plantings are mulched. During growth, low-concentration fertilizing is carried out (freesia does not like saline soil).

Experience of the flower grower L. Vinogradova (Moscow region): "After digging up freesia corms (usually in mid-October), I cut the leaves, wash and disinfect them to prevent diseases (their disinfection can be repeated before planting). I dry the planting material in warmth (about 27 degrees) with intensive ventilation for several days, then I remove the old corms and roots, discard the diseased corms.Then it lasts for 3-4 months thermal preparation period corms at a temperature of 25-30 degrees - this is the "golden key" that reveals the secret of growing freesia. To provide freesia corms at this time with high air humidity, they can be placed on a grid lying on a container of water. Until the beginning of March, I store freesia corms in the warmest place, and then for the remaining 3-4 weeks before planting, I keep them at more low temperature to prevent them from being depleted from overheating. This temperature difference, moreover, gives a signal for the beginning of the formation of the peduncle even before the corm is planted in the ground and brings the flowering time closer by about a month. I plant freesias in the garden around mid-April; before planting, corms can be treated with growth stimulants (I tested Humates, Epin, Zircon, potassium permanganate solution that gave good results). Flowering of freesias begins approximately from mid-August and lasts for 4-6 weeks, filling the garden with a unique aroma. Freesia flower stalks I establish a support. Freesia can be affected by the same diseases and pests as gladioli."

Ziborova E.Yu.

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The unique aroma of freesia and the ability to bloom indoors in winter encourage many flower lovers to breed it. She is also planted outdoors, where she flaunts, decorating the site with bright inflorescences. However, it happens that, despite careful care, the freesia does not germinate and its tubers must be transplanted or after many unsuccessful attempts to look for new material. Why Freesia Bulbs Don't Sprout When the corms of a flower are planted, don't expect instant returns. In nature, they “sleep” for 3-4 months and only then begin to give small sprouts. Freesia is very capricious about temperature changes, the most favorable conditions for its development are soil temperature indicators - 13-15ºС, air - 18-20ºС. The reasons why freesia bulbs do not germinate are quite numerous. The most common of them can be called: the absence of a significant warm-up time before planting; low air humidity during storage; the presence of infection, corm disease; sudden heat or cold after planting; heavy soil, lack of fertilizer, improper watering. Plant bulbs for a long time before planting must be heated at high humidity. If the environment is dry, this will cause the planting material to dry out. Bulbs will lose the energy necessary not only for development, lush flowering, but also growth. In this case, the corms are removed from the ground and, for use next year, the daughter bulbs that have formed in the ground are separated from them. In the case when the planting material in the soil rots, loses its healthy appearance, the cause may be a latent infection hiding in it. Especially often, such "surprises" await flower growers who bought corms in specialized stores. Rules for the care of freesia It happens that all conditions are met, the soil is light, the warm-up period is observed, the temperature of the air and soil does not change abruptly, the humidity is high, and the freesia does not germinate or gives weak, unviable sprouts. In an open area, the plant could be attacked by spider mites, thrips or aphids. In this case, the location of the bulb is treated with insecticides, you can also resort to folk methods. For example, the preparation of a tincture consisting of tobacco and water. In addition, freesia is susceptible to various diseases such as scab, fusarium, and decay. To prevent such phenomena, the basic rules of planting are observed: sorting planting material with culling of affected corms; thorough washing and drying in a natural way; disinfection with actellik, potassium permanganate, phytosporin solution or folk remedies; drying, storage and heating before planting. Wondering why freesia bulbs do not germinate, we must not forget about the rules of daily watering the plant. For this, warm water is used, but not from the tap. The ideal option is to collect it in a spare container in the morning and let it brew until the evening. Watering the corm planting sites is carried out mainly in the evening, but no later than 5-6 hours, so that the roots absorb moisture before darkness and cold snap. At the same time, it is important that the bulbs are planted at a distance of 10–15 cm. Too close proximity can also cause a lack of sprouts.

Freesia (Freessia) is a corm plant. Belongs to the iris or iris family - as you like. In the wild, they are found only in South Africa, namely in the Cape region (South Africa). Many varieties of their smell resemble lily of the valley, hence the other name of freesia - Cape lily of the valley.

Flower growers in most cases grow hybrid freesia. It was obtained by crossing freesia broken and Armstrong.

The height of the leaves of cultivated plants is 60-75 cm, peduncles up to one and a half meters. The wild form reaches 1 meter in height, forming impenetrable thickets in tropical rainforests. The leaves are narrow, sword-shaped, often drooping.

The flowers are funnel-shaped, smooth or double, collected on one side of a leafless curved peduncle. They are yellow, white, purple, brown, orange, red, blue.

The plant is named after the botanist F. Fries who discovered it.

In nature, there are about 20 species of these flowers.

Freesia Armstrong (Freesia armstrongii)

The plant is low - 65-70 cm. Inflorescences grow in panicles of 3-5 pieces. A distinctive feature of this species is that the flowers are only red shades - from pale pink to scarlet. Inner part flower base and stamen yellow color, pistil blue. Flowering time is short - from May to June.

Cardinal. In our country, the Cardinal variety is common. Three peduncles grow from one bulb, each of which blooms up to 11 flowers painted in red tones.

Broken freesia (Freesia refracta)

A compact plant, no more than 40-50 cm high. The flowers of most varieties are light in color.

Fragrant- milky-colored flowers with a bright yellow spot at the base. The name of the plant received for the very strong aroma of lily of the valley.

Alba. Distinctive feature varieties - very large flowers of snow-white color, inside the funnel are covered with purple stripes.

Freesia hybrid (Freesia hybrida)

Hybrids are obtained by crossing freesia broken and Armstrong. One bulb produces up to three peduncles, up to one and a half meters high. Flowers are large and of various colors.

Ballerina. The flowers are yellowish-white in color, arranged in one row.

Caramel. The shoots reach a height of 75-80 cm. The inflorescences are spike-shaped, they have up to 8 red-brown flowers on their surface.

Pimperina. The variety is mainly for home cultivation - a compact plant up to 20 cm tall. The flowers are corrugated, red with a burgundy border, at the base there is a yellow spot.

royal blue- Freesia with purple flowers with dark veins and a border. There is a small yellow spot at the base.

royal ball. A plant with double flowers, reaching about 6 cm in diameter. Possible colors: white, yellow, purple, red. Flowers are collected in brushes.

Terry freesia

The size of the flowers is small - up to 5 cm, but unusual look. Often the flowers are two-tone. This type includes:

Adonis pink;
Rosalind red;
Atlanta and Aida - violet-blue;
Fantasy with yellow flowers.

Red Lion- popular for growing at home. Terry flowers.

Saint Malo. Variety with pink flowers.

Growing in a pot

There is an opinion that freesia is a difficult-to-grow plant, and it is best to buy it in a flower shop. In fact, following simple rules allows you to successfully grow a delicate, fragrant flower.

At home, freesia is grown for winter distillation. This process is not permanent, it consists of different stages:

Preparing bulbs for storage;
rest period;
distillation;
Reproduction.

soil for freesia

For successful cultivation of freesia, moisture-intensive loose soils are needed. The bottom of the pot must be drained.

The composition of self-prepared soil should include forest turf, humus, high-moor peat, clean sand.

When filling the mixture with microelements, iron, calcium and magnesium are carefully introduced. The increased content of potassium and phosphorus will benefit the plant.

When buying ready-made soil, it is worth abandoning mixtures intended for growing roses. Freesia is a corm plant and you should pay attention to specialized soils.

If it is possible to measure the acidity of the soil, this should definitely be done. Normally, the environment should not give an acidic reaction.

To preserve the properties of the soil during mulching, neutral high-moor peat is used.

Preparation of planting material for planting

The storage of bulbs is described in detail in a special section.

Bulbs that have undergone special storage are suitable for distillation.

The diameter of the tubers should be 5-9 cm, you should choose the largest specimens.

Before planting, the bulbs are cleaned of old scales.

An obligatory stage of preparation should be soaking the bulbs in a disinfectant solution.

To do this, independently prepare a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate. Ready-to-dissolve mixtures of other chemicals are purchased from specialized stores.

Soaking lasts one hour and ends with a thorough rinsing running water.

To accelerate growth, root stimulants are used. A large selection of such drugs is presented in trade (Epin, Kornevin).

You can get by with the tools that are in every home.

Aloe. To prepare "living water" take 200 ml of boiled water and dissolve in it 1 tbsp. a spoonful of aloe juice. The composition is left for one week. Before use, the prepared liquid is diluted with 5 liters of water.
Yeast. 100 gr. soft yeast is dissolved in 1 liter of water. Corms are soaked in the resulting solution for several hours.
Honey. 2 hours. Spoons of honey are dissolved in 1.5 liters of water. The soaking of the root part of the tuber is carried out for one day.

After washing the planting material, they start planting freesia.

Planting freesia

Freesia planting time depends on when they expect to receive flowering plant.

For flowering in January, tubers are planted in early September.

To get February flowers, the bulbs are “launched” in early October. March flowers will be ready if you start growing freesia in early November.

It is important to properly prepare containers for planting.

Pots should not be less than 15 cm in diameter. They are washed and disinfected. You can use soap, soda ash. It would be nice to wipe the inner surface with a solution of potassium permanganate (when soaking corms, you can make it with a margin).

The bottom of the pot must be covered with drainage. It is good to use medium-sized expanded clay, pebbles, the addition of a small amount charcoal.

The remaining volume is filled with prepared soil. Recommendations for its composition are given above.

On sale there are potash and phosphorus fertilizers in the form of small sticks. Freesia will definitely respond to the introduction of this type of fertilizer into the soil before planting.

The number of corms planted in one container depends on their size. Their number varies from three to six, it is important to keep the distance. It should be within 7-10 cm.

Planting depth also depends on the size of the planting material. The holes are dug in such a way that the onion can be covered with a layer loose soil 1-2 cm high.

If storage at a low temperature has not been carried out, the pots are kept at a temperature of 13-15C for 8 weeks without watering.

Within 40-50 days, the beginnings of inflorescences are formed.

Temperature fluctuations during preparation for landing are unacceptable. This will have a very negative effect on the quality of the flowers.

Freesia care in the room

After the emergence of mass seedlings, the plants are transferred to a warm room, where they provide constant care.

Lighting

Freesia grows in nature in South Africa, in those latitudes there is a fairly long daylight hours. The descendants of a wild plant also need additional illumination, especially in winter.

In the period of 8 weeks, while the formation of the rudiments of flowers, they provide daylight hours for 12 hours.

Another feature of freesia's natural habitats is deciduous forests. From here comes a negative attitude towards direct light, but you can’t do without additional illumination.

At any time of the year, direct sunlight is not allowed on the leaves and flowers of freesia. Plants must be shaded.

It is advisable to cover the plants even from the lamps of the illuminating devices.

After the emergence of shoots, it is necessary to ensure the duration of the light period of 14 hours.

Temperature regime

The temperature during the period of exposure and germination of the bulbs has already been written.

After germination, it is important to maintain a constant temperature of + 22C.

This is the most difficult condition when growing a whimsical plant. Indeed, in the conditions of an apartment, not every person can provide this.

Higher temperatures and lower temperatures can result in the plant not blooming at all.

After the buds have set, the temperature can be raised.

Air humidity

Returning to the growing conditions of freesia, one can understand that in floodplain forests, air humidity in the region of 70-80% will be normal.

Unlike other bulbs, this regimen should be observed not only during storage of corms, but also during cultivation in a pot.

It is useful to install open containers of water next to the pots of growing freesias.

For large rooms include humidifiers.

high humidity air does not mean that the bulb must be in a humid environment. Freesia will not tolerate stagnant water in the soil. It is important to make good drainage of the container.

To avoid frequent watering, the soil around the plants is mulched with peat that is neutral in composition.

Support

One of the types of freesia is called broken, it is completely true. Most varieties have weak, break-prone leaves.

Peduncles grow crooked without support.

When the first leaves appear, the supports must be installed.

Supports must be installed for tall varieties flower.

Freesias in the open field

For the successful cultivation of freesia in open field it is necessary to create suitable conditions.

Choosing a place to grow

When choosing a place to plant a plant, we once again recall its homeland and growing conditions.

A permanently shady location is best. Drafts must also be excluded.

Thus, freesia should be planted under trees, dense shrubs that prevent the free movement of air.

You can arrange a landing site in a shaded corner of the garden.

Planting freesia seeds

Planting freesia in open ground with seeds is rarely done. It is more reliable to grow a plant through seedlings.

Successful cultivation possible under several conditions:

Zoned seeds are chosen for planting - this indicator is indicated by the manufacturer;
Seeds are treated with a disinfectant solution, for example, potassium permanganate, before planting;
For sowing, you will need individual peat pots with a depth of at least 10-15 cm;
Sow seeds in early March;
The soil for planting is prepared loose and moisture-intensive. A mixture is suitable - peat, coarse sand, garden soil in a ratio of 2: 1: 2;
The depth of sowing seeds is 8-10 cm. From above, the holes are mulched with neutral peat;
Germination of seeds is carried out in a dark place at a temperature of 20-25 C;
Water the soil moderately;
A month after germination, the sprouts are fed with organic matter.

As outside temperatures rise, seedlings in pots are transplanted into open ground.

Transplanting seedlings into open ground is carried out only after the threat of a repeated return of frost has passed - freesia will not survive low temperatures.

Planting freesia bulbs

Before planting freesia, the land needs to be prepared. Insufficiently fertile land is fertilized with organic matter in advance, from autumn. On the square meter area contribute 1 bucket of humus.

Acidic soils are limed in autumn.

The depth of planting bulbs determines the degree of looseness of the soil. On soft soils, the bulbs are planted to a depth of 10-12 cm, and on heavy soils 5-6 cm.

The earth is dug up to the maximum possible depth and leveled to prevent waterlogging of individual areas.

Landing is carried out after the establishment of constant warm weather. When frost returns, plantings are covered at night with protective material.

Before planting, the soil should warm up to 12C. The air temperature should not fall below 15C.

To speed up the planting time, the bed is covered with a black film - in this case, the earth will warm up faster.

Landing dates in the middle lane come from mid-May.

On the prepared bed, holes are made with a step between them of 5-8 cm. The distance depends on the size of the planting material. The distance between rows is kept within 15-20 cm.

Seedlings grown in peat pots are planted along with them, the walls will not be an obstacle to the roots. Peat cup will be an additional fertilizer for the plant.

Seedlings grown in boxes or non-degradable containers are watered abundantly before transplanting.

Under the conditions of the middle lane, freesia tubers are not planted before winter. Also, tubers of adult plants are not left in the ground to winter. Plants will inevitably die.

Tubers are left to winter in the ground only in the southernmost regions of our country. To do this, remove the aerial part of the plant. The surface of the earth is carefully mulched with peat or spruce branches. coniferous trees, needles. The resinous smell repels rodents that gnaw on freesia tubers.

Freesia care in the open field

For successful development in the open field, care is required, which includes the usual agrotechnical measures:

weeding;
loosening;
Watering;
Application of fertilizers;
tying;
Pruning.

Weeding, as a rule, is combined with the loosening procedure.

Loose earth does not allow water to stagnate in the rows, the excess of which leads to rotting of the bulbs, the occurrence of fungal diseases.

Loosening is carried out weekly and after the soil dries up after watering or rain.

The props are installed as the plants grow. If this is not done, the lightest breeze can break leaves or tall, fragile flower stalks.

Additional method weed control can become mulching beds.

Watering and fertilizing

Watering is done abundantly, but infrequently. Soil moistening is carried out after the topsoil has dried.

Water is brought "under the root". Water that has fallen on a flower or bud will quickly lead to its decay and decay.

On hot days, the leaves and flower stalks are sprayed with warm water.

Increase the rate of watering during the formation of buds.

After the end of flowering, watering is reduced. A month after the end of flowering, when the leaves begin to dry out, watering is completely stopped.

Two weeks after planting the plants in the flower bed, the first top dressing is carried out.

The second fertilization is done when flower stalks appear and buds begin to form.

The period of maximum flowering coincides with the third feeding.

For fertilizer, only potash-phosphorus fertilizers and natural organic top dressings are used - humus, compost. The application of nitrogen fertilizers will provoke the vegetative growth of green leaves.

freesia pruning

In order to stimulate the reappearance of inflorescences on the plant, freesia is pruned. There are several mandatory conditions that must be observed.

Trimming dried flowers

Right time for this, the period is considered when the brush of flowers has already faded, but the fruits have not begun to form.

Cut the plants with a sharp garden shears or kitchen scissors.

The cut is made 5-10 millimeters below the flower, which is located at the very top of the peduncle.

Leaf pruning

Leaves before the end of the flowering period, do not cut under any circumstances. The preparation of nutrients in the tuber before wintering is carried out precisely by the leaves of the plant.

Rules for cutting leaves:

Cut the foliage only after it turns yellow or brown.
After cutting, a stump with a height of at least 5-6 cm should remain.

Only healthy, pest-free leaves can be used for compost. Green mass with signs of bacterial and fungal diseases must be destroyed.

Freesia after flowering

Immediately after the flowers wither, the vegetative processes of the aerial part of the plant stop. The leaves wilt, turn yellow, the process of drying begins. The flower is being prepared for reproduction.

At this time, the bulb begins to ripen. The tuber is covered with hard protective bristles. Daughter nodules form and develop.

At home freesia, stems and leaves are pruned:

Watering, however, cannot be stopped at this time - daughter bulbs continue to form and actively develop.
Watering the cut plant is continued for about 40 days after the flowers have dried.
The bulbs are dug up when the soil is completely dry after the last watering.
It will take several days for the lump of earth to dry completely, which over time can be gently shaken off the tubers.
Dug out bulbs are washed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, excess (dry) scales are removed, the bulbs are dried.

Garden freesia is treated differently:

In the last days of September or, in the southern regions, in the first decade of October after the leaves turn yellow, the tubers are dug out of the ground, cleaned of clods of earth, roots and hard scales are removed.
After standing for 30 minutes in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, freesia is dried for 3-4 days in a warm room.
It is necessary to organize ventilation of the storage area.
After sorting, the bulbs are stored for storage or prepared for winter forcing.

How freesia breeds

Propagate freesia different ways:

cuttings;
seeds;
Daughter bulbs.

The first method is exotic, requires the creation of favorable sterile conditions and is rarely used by gardeners at home. Apply it in industrial scale, in special laboratories in order to propagate valuable varietal specimens.

Reproduction by seeds

Propagation of freesia by seeds is a long process - the first flower buds will appear no earlier than six months later.

Sow seeds from mid-April to late May.
Seeds are soaked for 12-15 hours in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. After this treatment, the seeds must be washed with clean running water.
The next day, the seeds are in a glass of boiled water.
The seeds are dried on a paper towel, mixed with coarse river sand.
After that, sowing takes place in boxes that are covered with glass.
The temperature is maintained at 22C.
Sprouts appear in 20-25 days. After the sprouts have grown stronger, they begin to harden, transferring the boxes during the day to the balcony or to the greenhouse.
Care consists in regular weeding, watering, fertilizing.
It is advisable to feed young plants weekly with fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus.
If the plants are planted in a common container, after the appearance of two full-fledged leaves, a pick is made.

Seedlings are not exposed to direct sunlight.

Reproduction by daughter bulbs

Reproduction of freesia by daughter bulbs is the fastest and most effective method for home growing conditions.

At the end of the growing season, when the plant stops flowering and the leaves dry up, the corms are carefully dug up.
Planting material is cleaned of soil residues.
Children are separated from the main bulb.
Unlike bulbs that will be used for winter forcing, young tubers should be stored in a cool place. To do this, use fabric bags filled with dry peat.
In the spring, the bulbs are again planted in open ground, the breeding process continues.

Large bulbs with the onset of warm weather are planted in the soil. Medium-sized planting material is pre-grown in containers or peat pots.

Why freesia does not bloom

There are several reasons for the lack of flowering:

The bulbs were stored in an insufficiently warm room;
The tubers dried out due to too dry air during storage. Such tubers are used to obtain tubers in the open field;
Infection of tubers during storage;
A sharp decrease or increase in temperature in the first 10 days after planting the plant in the ground.

Bulb cleaning and storage

The dug, processed bulbs are sorted by varieties and sizes. Store them in bags of loose fabric or nets. It is necessary to ensure constant access of air to the tubers. Air circulation and a dry substrate used during storage will eliminate the possibility of decay.

Bulbs can be stored in wooden boxes. Bulbs are not laid in more than two layers. This will ensure unhindered air access and circulation near the planting material.

A positive result will be obtained by sprinkling the bulbs with dry peat, this will also protect them from putrefactive processes.

Store the "harvest" at a temperature of 20 to 25C.

The air temperature below or above the specified limits with a high degree of probability will lead to the fact that the beginnings of inflorescences will not tie.

Humidity is maintained at 80%. With drier air in the room, any container with water is installed. The lid is not covered.

The temperature in the refrigerator is not suitable for storing freesia bulbs.

Once a month, the bulbs are sorted out. Examining, reveal the occurrence of diseases and decay. Stained, infected or spoiled bulbs are removed. Tubers with signs of decay, if they are of a particularly valuable variety, are tried to be immediately planted for germination and further planting of a growing container.

A month before planting, the bulbs are transferred to a room with an air temperature not higher than + 15C.

Conveniently final stage preparations for planting should be carried out in a greenhouse if it is heated during this period.

Diseases and pests dangerous to the plant

At home cultivation freesia can be affected by common garden pests. Don't pass by indoor plants spider mites, aphids, different kinds thrips. All of them are sap-sucking, and live and breed on plants, feeding on juice.

Thrips - dangerous carrier viral diseases.

At the first appearance of pests, when their number is small, they are usually collected by hand.

After removing all insects, the plants are treated with a solution of laundry soap. An infusion of garlic will help, onion. If there are a lot of pests, they resort to chemicals - Aktellik, Fitoverm.

In most cases, pests on freesia plants appear as a result of non-compliance with the rules of care. Pests settle on weakened plants.

Freesia diseases:

Fusarium. The disease is very common. The source of infection can be infected bulb seeds, soil from the garden plot. Cannot be used for irrigation rain water. fungal disease infects the root system. Often, when loosening, the roots of the plant are damaged, and this is the easiest way for the disease to penetrate. The disease develops quickly - within a few days.
Scab. Currently does not have effective means struggle. When scab is affected, brown spots appear on the leaves. The bulb is covered with brown spots. In a neglected state, the tuber is deformed, covered with a brilliant coating;
Rotten. These diseases can destroy the bulb within one month.

The main method of prevention is preplant preparation of bulbs, it will dramatically reduce the likelihood of disease.

Substrates before planting are disinfected by steaming or impregnating with disinfectants.

Diseased plants are immediately removed at a considerable distance from healthy plants. The bulb is dug up, disinfected. With severe lesions, the plant is destroyed.

Subject to the necessary care rules, proper watering, temperature and humidity will make the plants strong, resistant to pests and diseases.

Growing freesia is an interesting process. Compliance with the basic rules will allow you to grow a healthy plant that will delight you with colorful, delicate flowers.