How is the lining attached to the wall. How to fix the lining? - A few useful tips from Professor Opilkin. Lining fastening rules

Lining is an excellent versatile material for the final finishing ceiling surfaces, interior and exterior walls. This upholstery is perfect for finishing. door panels in combination with a similar type of platbands. Regardless of the selected objects for cladding, the panels are fixed every time according to the same pattern.

What is particularly impressive is the ease of working with this material. You can easily deal with clapboard lining on your own.

But first, you should always use study guide. This can be an instruction for mounting the lining with your own hands.

Using instructions

Detailed instructions are one of the best assistants in the process of learning any business. In construction, the prices of professional teams for work are quite high. Doing something yourself is profitable, first of all, from a financial point of view. Especially when it comes to simple processes. Wood paneling falls into this category.

For better understanding, it is customary to use illustrated tips. In this case, a photo of the installation of the lining is suitable as an additional visual material. And of course, one cannot ignore the numerous video materials that the Internet is so rich in.

It is important, using all the educational materials, to study all the details, to master the technology. Then, being already confident that no problems will arise, you can safely begin work.

Stages of sheathing

Do-it-yourself step-by-step installation of lining with your own hands consists in performing the following steps:

Perform preparatory work. The lining is prepared for installation. They are impregnated with special compounds, such as antiseptic and flame retardant. For further processing, stain or paint of the desired color is used.

After the paint composition has dried, a crate of wooden slats or a bar with a section of 5x5 cm. The fastening step of the frame elements should be 10-20 mm less than the width of the insulation plate. Screws or self-tapping screws are used to fasten the rails.

The position of the rails or bars can be vertical or horizontal. The future arrangement of the skin depends on this.

The variant of the installation position of the lining depends entirely on the desire to visually change the appearance of the room. On this, the initial order of fastening the frame is built.

Vertical cladding increases the height of the room. Do-it-yourself horizontal installation of lining makes the room seem more spacious.

In the cells formed, when using a beam, heat-insulating plates are arranged. Upon completion of the work, the entire working area is covered with a plastic film, fixing it on the bars with thin slats. In the future, they will be the element to which the lining itself will be attached.

The final stage is the finishing with wood panels. The room is getting finished.

Technology correct installation lining along the walls is distributed over several steps and is clearly observed during the entire period of work.

The process goes in the following order:

• wall fastening of panels is carried out from the ceiling to the floor line.
• lining is mounted on wooden bars or slats. The grooves are placed down. For evenness of the panels, a lower fit is made using a trim wooden board. This method eliminates the formation of gaps between the skin and the floor.

The difference between fasteners and their characteristics

For fixing, fasteners are used. The spikes of subsequent skin elements are inserted into the grooves and fixed with specially selected parts. It can be staples, clamps or ordinary nails and screws. Each of these elements of hard fixation has its own meaning.

Nails hammered into grooves are among the neatest, almost imperceptible type of fastening. Kleimers are characterized as high-quality fixation. For staples, it is necessary to use a mounting gun, since fastening occurs by shooting.

Panel Alignment Reception

The last board of the lining is adjusted in width with a hacksaw. A decorative plinth is laid along the line of its docking with a corner. It is attached to liquid nails. It turns out very beautiful appearance.

A similar finish with a plinth is carried out along all the lines of interface of the surfaces of the walls with the ceiling, along the wall corners and ledges.

The order of the ceiling sheathing

Do-it-yourself installation of lining on the ceiling is carried out in a manner similar to wall decoration. The difference is only in the initial order of the panels.

The layout and fastening start from the window and lead towards the opposite wall. Thus, the shadows arising between the facing elements are hidden.

Photo of lining installation

Lining is perfect for finishing ceilings, exterior and exterior wall cladding and even door cladding. Regardless of the cladding object, the panels are attached according to the same scheme. At the same time, you can easily handle the installation of the lining with your own hands. Read the basic instructions and get started.

First step

Prepare the lining for the upcoming installation. Soak the material with an antiseptic and fire retardant. If desired, you can additionally process the panels with stain or paint the desired color.

Let the treated lining dry and bring the material into the room to be finished. Leave for a day. Wood adapts to environmental conditions, which eliminates the risk of its further deformation.

Second step

Mount the crate on the surface to be trimmed. Buy slats or make your own from inch boards or 5x5 cm timber. Fasten the elements of the crate in increments of 10-20 mm less than the width of the future insulation. Fix with screws or self-tapping screws. The step of placing the fasteners is half a meter.

Control the evenness of the frame with special tools.

Third step

Cover the crate with waterproofing material (polyethylene film, fastened with a construction stapler), place insulation in the cells (if required, the best material is mineral wool, lay tightly, without gaps), and then cover the heat-insulating layer with vapor barrier material (attach to the crate with a construction stapler).

Fourth step

Attach a second crate to the wooden crate for insulation, designed already directly for fixing the lining.

Fasten the bars or boards perpendicular to the future sheathing and at the same time perpendicular to the frame for insulating materials. That is, the method of fastening the skin (horizontally or vertically) must be determined for yourself even before the fastening of the first crate.

Treat the elements of the crate with an antiseptic.

There are several options for fixing boards, while mounting panels can use different fasteners. Read the information below and get started.

Mounting options

Choose the method of fixing the lining at your discretion. Factory lining initially has spikes and grooves that allow each subsequent sheathing board to be fastened to the previous one.

To fix the lining, you can use staples, clamps, screws and nails. The fastening itself can be done covertly or openly.

Mounting method, as already noted, choose at your discretion. The main thing is that the fixation is as reliable and of high quality as possible, while the lining itself remains undamaged. Embed the heads of nails and screws into the wood.

The most accurate and at the same time the most complex method of fixing the sheathing involves nailing directly into the grooves of the lining. So the nails will be almost invisible.

Cleimers are perfect for high-quality fixing of boards. Choose the right type of fasteners according to the thickness of the grooves of your decorative boards. On one side of the kleimer there are teeth - with them the fastener cuts into the grooves finishing material. On the other hand, the kleimer must be nailed or screwed to the frame. As a rule, nails are initially included in the set with clamps.

A variant of fastening the lining is also available, involving the use of special brackets. In this case, it is used mounting gun. The bracket shoots through the groove of the board and fixes it to the frame. To perform such an installation, you need to have the appropriate skills.

The lining is treated with the necessary impregnations, the battens are installed, the necessary insulating materials are laid, the installation method is selected. Now it remains only to mount the lining directly.

Decide on the optimal direction for placing the cladding elements - this has already been discussed earlier.

Focus on your preferences and features of the room. For example, horizontal trim allows you to visually expand the room, making it visually more spacious.

When placed vertically, the lining will visually increase the height of the room.

First step

Proceed to fastening the lining. Start sheathing the walls in the direction from the ceiling to the floor. At the same time, try to direct the grooves down - thanks to this, various debris will not get into them in the future, which will contribute to a significant increase in the service life of the skin.

Second step

Fix the lining sheet on the crate bars. Use convenient fasteners. Insert the spike of the next sheathing element into the groove of the fixed board. Fasten it. Sheathe all the planned space in this order.

Every 5-10 cladding elements, be sure to check the evenness of the surface with a plumb line or level.

Third step

Having reached the last board of the lining, adjust it in width with a regular hacksaw or other suitable tool. Nail the board and hide the gap under the decorative baseboard.

Fourth step

Clean the surface of the finish from dust with a damp sponge. If you wish, you can finally paint the lining, but this is not necessary - the wood already has an attractive appearance and a beautiful shade.

If a special lining will be used for sheathing, which externally imitates a rounded log, start finishing with the groove up - this way you will hide the joints.

Additionally, the panels can be adjusted with a hammer, placing a piece of board under it - so the finish will be fixed without cracks.

To fasten the "rounded" lining, use self-tapping screws. Screw fasteners at 45 degrees. Between the panels of such sheathing, place the treated timber. This will create beautiful finish without gaps.

First step

Start fastening the lining boards from the corner. The first board of the lining in the corner must be fixed with nails. The fastener caps will later be hidden under a decorative corner. If you don’t want to buy a corner, simply bite off the hats with a side cutter.

Second step

Continue fixing the cladding boards until the entire planned surface has been clad. Work as with horizontal trim, inserting one element into another and fixing one by one.

Third step

When you reach the last board, cut it to size and nail it to the frame.

In conclusion, it remains only to decorate the skin with special slats, plinth, and also corners - these elements allow you to hide the joints and arrange the corners normally.

The ceiling is sheathed with the material in question in the same order as the walls. The only remark is that the lining should begin to be fixed from the window opening to the opposite wall. With this placement, the shadows between the cladding elements will be less noticeable.

Thus, there is absolutely nothing complicated in self-assembly of the lining. To extend the life of the sheathing, re-treat it with an antiseptic and fire retardant every 2-3 years. For the rest, follow the instructions, and you will create the highest quality, durable and aesthetically attractive finish.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself lining installation

Modern building materials and technologies make it possible to build baths from various materials. For walls, you can use foam blocks, frame insulated panels, sandwich panels, profiled or glued beams. The interior upholstery is made of glued and plastic lining(“original” solution), waterproof OSB and fiberboard, etc. Each of these materials has its advantages and disadvantages, each finds its consumer depending on preferences and “wallet thickness”.

We will not consider these modern options, let's talk about the most classic, reliable and time-tested version of building a bath - from an ordinary sawn timber, for the interior upholstery of the bath we use natural lining. Doesn't have of great importance what kind of lining - an ordinary traditional or europrofile. These are our initial data, for other options the upholstery technology will have minor differences.

wood species	Dimensions (thickness x width x length)	Extra grade, price per 1 sq.m	Grade A, price per 1 sq.m	Extra grade, price per linear meter	Grade A, price per linear meter	Illustration
Aspen	16х96(90)х 1-3 m	550-680 rub.	450-580 rub.	53-65 rub.	48-56 rub.
Linden	16х96(90)х 1-3 m	650-870 rub.	550-770 rub.	62-84 rub.	53-74 rub.
Cedar	16х96(90)х 1-3 m	1400-1800 rub.	1300-1700 rub	134-173 rubles.	125-163 rub.
Larch (lining Calm)	14x90 (115 or 140 wide) x 2 (4, 5 or 6 meters long)	950-1160 rub.	770-940 rub.	-	-

Stages of work

Any work requires careful preliminary preparation, the better everything is thought out and prepared, the faster the upholstery will be done and the cheaper it will cost.

Where to start work:

• preparation of tools;
• measuring the premises and calculating the required amount of material;
• preparation of bearing surfaces;
• frame installation;
• clapboard upholstery;
• final finishing work.

We note right away that there are no less important and more important operations, an inattentive or unprofessional attitude to any of them can cause rather unpleasant situations, in some cases a marriage is very difficult to fix, and this is fraught with large additional financial losses. In addition to money, time and nerves are lost.

Instrument preparation

To perform upholstery work, you will need the following tools and fixtures.

1. Tape measure and pencil for measurements.
2. Level. Now there is a large selection of fairly accurate levels, you can additionally purchase a laser device. But there is one problem - these tools are quite expensive, you need to use them skillfully. But this does not guarantee against rather large errors during markup. We recommend using the old and very accurate methods - check the vertical with an ordinary plumb line, and beat the horizontal with a hydraulic level. Despite their simplicity and low cost, these devices have the most high precision measurements.
3. Electric hand saw or hacksaw. We advise you to use an electric saw - at a cost it satisfies most consumers, makes it much easier and faster to work, improves the quality and accuracy of the cut.
4. Hammer, nail puller, etc. necessary little things for a carpenter.

   
   
   
   
   
   
   

We took into account that upholstery will not be done by professionals, they have expensive tools and fixtures. For an ordinary summer resident, it is economically unprofitable to purchase such expensive things to perform one-time work of a small volume.

Electric hand saw prices

saw hand electric circular

Video - About the lining in the bath and the principles of installation

Measurement of premises and calculation of materials

Clapboard needs to be upholstered on the ceiling and walls, therefore, their area must be measured. There is nothing complicated, only care is needed. Based on the data obtained, a lining is purchased.

1. First, when performing any work, it will not be possible to completely avoid unproductive waste. And if there is not enough practical experience in the production of works, then the amount of waste can increase to 15% or more.
2. Secondly, not all purchased lining will be of high quality, unfortunately.

Another point - during the purchase of lining, select its length and width in such a way as to minimize the number of cuts, this will help reduce waste. To do this, you need to compare its length with the dimensions of the walls and ceiling. If you get a multiple - great, if not - then the segments should be long, which will allow them to be used during upholstery.

Profile	Description	Scheme
Standard	It looks like a classic quarter-board lining. It has a thorn-groove connection, and the thorn is shorter than the groove to prevent deformation.
Calm or Kolkhoz Woman	It differs from the previous one in rounded edges and the presence of channels on the reverse side to prevent the accumulation of condensate.
	Produced in accordance with DIN 68126. Has an elongated spike. After mounting the lining, the surface of the wall is ribbed.
	Soft line or soft line is a symbiosis of Euro and Calm lining. Soft rounded corners, elongated tenon, embossed texture of the wall after panel assembly.
	Used for finishing external walls and premises. Stylized as a rounded log. There is a thorn-groove connection, front side usually rounded, and the wrong side is flat or with channels for ventilation.

Reiki for the frame must be at least one centimeter thick, they also need to be bought with a margin, especially since they cost a penny.

Nails can be bought copper or galvanized, they are very praised by manufacturers. But we dare to assure you that ordinary nails will serve for many years, and they cost several times cheaper. If you expect to fasten the lining with special clamps, then you will have to buy them.

A few words need to be said about the impregnation of lining and rails with various antiseptics. This operation is desirable, but not required. conifers wood and without impregnation will forgive for decades, and over time it is better to completely change the lining. Impregnation not only inhibits the growth of microorganisms and bacteria, but gradually poisons us as well.

Aged Wood Palette - Textured Clapboard

Impregnation for wood - the result of pronounced moisture resistance

Cleimer prices

Preparation of load-bearing surfaces

Surface preparation includes leveling and, if desired, additional insulation. It is not necessary to align each individual beam, align only those to which the wooden lath will be fixed.

Reiki, by the way, can arrive horizontally or vertically. Accordingly, the lining in such cases will be mounted vertically or horizontally.

Video - Installation of lining

It is better to check the evenness of the walls with a rope stretched in the corners of the bath, or an even long wooden slat. It is advisable to use a rope, it is more accurate and faster. Pull the rope as close to the floor and ceiling as possible, check with a straight rail the distance from the wall surfaces to the rope. If large bulges are found, they will have to be cut down, the depressions will level out already during the fastening of the crate. And then not all, but only those where it will be necessary to fasten the rails.

Frame installation

Highly important point- the end result largely depends on the thoroughness of all operations. What should you pay attention to? Distance between rails. Specific values ​​​​depend on the thickness of the lining, but we recommend installing the slats at a distance of ≈ 40 centimeters. Strength and reliability will increase significantly, and the amount of work and the amount of materials will increase slightly. How to make a crate? Consider the option of vertical installation of rails. It goes without saying that the electrical cables have already been laid.

1. Nail the two extreme slats in the corners, you need to nail in level.
2. Stretch a rope between them.
3. Mark the distance between the remaining slats and nail them along the rope. If necessary, wooden spacers should be placed under the slats for their precise alignment.

In the same sequence, slats are nailed on all other surfaces.

Installation of lining

Here it is also very important to mark the first row, check the correct position several times. It does not take much time, but it allows you to insure against troubles. If you have not made control marks on the frame rails, then you should check the positions of the rows with a level.

If you have little practical experience, make marks on the rails for the location of the lining every three to four rows. Marks can be made on each rail with a pencil or beat off all at once with a special rope with blue, they are sold in every hardware store. Such marking will allow you to constantly monitor the position of the rows and, if small deviations occur, correct them in a timely manner.

The nails are nailed to the slats of the frame, respectively, the distance between them is equal to the distance between the slats.

Problems can arise if the ceiling and floor are not parallel to each other, the last row of lining must be cut at an angle. What to do? Think while laying out the wireframe. If the deviations in height are less than 1.5 cm, then it is better to cut only the bottom row of the lining, the place will be closed with a plinth, the “oblique” lining at the bottom is less noticeable - various sunbeds and other “bathing equipment” in many places completely hide the plinth. If the height difference is large, divide it into two parts, you will need to cut both the lower and upper rows. What exactly to cut off (thorn or groove) does not matter.

Prices for lining

Video - How to nail a lining. Installation subtleties

The lining is fixed with studs or kleimers, the studs must be driven into the spike under a flush slope, the length of the studs is ≈1.5 cm. We do not recommend using self-tapping screws - it is long and expensive, and there is zero additional effect. The lining is never affected by pulling forces. The kleimer is fixed in the grooves, nailed to the rails. The gaps at the bottom and top are closed with skirting boards.

It is not necessary to seal the lining with a mallet, especially eurolining. She has spikes much longer, which prevents them from slipping out of the grooves during expansion / shrinkage.

Very important - leave gaps for shrinkage. If the bath has not yet fully matured after laying the log house, then you will have to install a floating crate. It is easy to make, there are special elements for floating fixation of the frame.

Never rush, it is better to first check the position of the lining several times and only then securely fix it. Only with time, when experience already appears, the pace of work can be increased.

Video - Floating crate for lining installation

On the Internet you can find advice from "experts" to insulate baths mineral wool or foil - we consider this a waste of money and time. This option should be used only if the bath is built of silicate bricks.

If there are many tasks, conditions should be discussed. Foam blocks and wood keep heat normally. And for wooden baths foil does more harm than good - violated natural ventilation with all the ensuing consequences. Unscrupulous shabashniki are engaged in such "warming" in order to rip more money from the customer

Video - Internal lining of the bath clapboard

Finishing work

These include the installation of skirting boards on the floor and fillets on the ceiling. Do not forget to always leave a gap of 1÷2 cm between the last row of lining and the ceiling to compensate for expansion / shrinkage. The gap is closed with a fillet ( ceiling plinth), the fillet is fixed to the ceiling - this is very important. Otherwise, the gaps left will not “work”, there are high risks of warping.

The lining can be coated with special varnishes, stains that are resistant to difficult operating conditions, or the surfaces can be left untreated. It is undesirable to cover with varnishes, it must be remembered that absolutely all polymer resins, and it is from them that most stable varnishes are made, emit harmful chemical compounds. The harmfulness of paint and varnish coatings is determined individually in each country, the limit values ​​​​of evaporation are regulated. What in some countries is strictly prohibited for use, in others is called "environmentally friendly" products. Decide for yourself if you need beautiful bath, or you wish to have a safe steam room. What can be advised - carefully inspect all surfaces and, if necessary, grind problem areas on the lining. To varnish or not is an amateur's business.

Prices for wooden skirting boards

wooden plinth

Conclusion

If you follow all the recommendations: do not rush, do not be lazy to double-check the markings and work done several times, then upholstery of the bath with clapboard will not seem very difficult. Of course, on condition - there is a desire and hands grow from where it is necessary. Work is best done with an assistant - faster, easier, and safer. And the last thing - follow the elementary safety rules, no beautiful, clapboard upholstered bathhouse compensates for the loss of health.

The walls in the house in their area take up much more space than the ceilings and floors. Therefore, their design should be taken as carefully as possible, having thought for this as a type facing material and analyzing its characteristics. In addition, the walls must necessarily have an attractive appearance and be easy to maintain. The article will focus on the choice and methods of fastening eurolining.

Eurolining

Wood is one of the most sought after building materials. It is popular for cladding both the facade of the house and for interior work. After all, wood is a natural material that is ready to serve for decades and has a fairly attractive appearance.

Eurolining photo

• Eurolining is a type of finishing material processed in a special way from all sides. To facilitate the skin, there are grooves and spikes along its edges. The dimensions of the eurolining may vary slightly, but the most popular material with the following parameters:
  1. thickness 1.2 cm;
  2. width 9.6 cm;
  3. length 2-3 m.
• Lining is a fairly practical material that is easy to install. It helps in leveling the walls, in hiding the defects that have arisen due to improper plastering of the walls. Characteristics depend on the type of wood itself from which it is made. After all, all types of wood are different in their structure and properties.
• The material for the production of this type of finishing materials is a tree of both deciduous and coniferous species. Coniferous species are much lower in price than hardwoods. So, eurolining from cedar will cost more than from pine. Wood should be selected depending on its application.
• Also, other types of materials are used in production. most economically advantageous material eurolining PVC acts, but in this case the finishing material is inferior in quality. After all, natural wood will always look much more attractive than artificial plastic.
• If there is a need to finish the room from the inside, then the use of finishing material with low characteristics is allowed. In the case of external cladding, on the contrary, you should use hardwood eurolining, which is not afraid of an aggressive operating environment, resistant to moisture and sudden temperature changes. In order for it to last longer, it is treated with a special solution, which gives it greater strength and wear resistance.

Variety of eurolining

Class difference

• extra class. This is the most elite type of lining. It differs in that it has absolutely no defects;
• "A" class. Minor defects may be present in this type;
• "B" class. There are more knots here than in the class above. The diameter of the knots is also larger;
• "C" class. The cheapest and poor quality type of lining. Its applications for decorative design impractical.

Wood difference

• The most popular type of eurolining is a board pine wood. This is due not only to the high positive indicators of the material, but also to the rather low price of it. Pine lining has a fairly high strength, and its specific gravity is relatively small. It will not create too much load on the crate. This wood contains much less moisture than hardwoods tree. In addition, the amount of time required for drying its blanks is much less than for drying other breeds. This fact leads to an optimization of the production process and lower costs.
• Since it is pine eurolining that has a high content of resins in its composition, it is durable and useful for the human body. After all, the release into the air essential oils can cure even advanced chronic lung diseases. And the pleasant smell of pine will not hurt anyone, while creating good mood and a feeling of comfort. The resin itself is an excellent preservative, which greatly increases the life of the wood.

• In addition, a pine board looks quite attractive and original. It has a peculiar yellowish tint and is distinguished by a beautiful pattern of knots and rings of a tree trunk.

The main advantages of eurolining from pine:

• attractive appearance and original texture of the material;
• long service life. This board does not even have to be treated with special impregnations and apply a protective coating;
• low weight;
• a large number of manufacturers on the market;
• relatively low price compared to other types of wood;
• fairly wide range. The fact is that it is pine boards that are presented on the market in all kinds of designs. Sizes can be customized to your taste. But eurolining from other types of trees of the right size is more difficult to find;
• pine is a tree that is easy to process and install. As a result, it is quite easy to install. This can be done on your own, without the involvement of professionals.

Of course, in addition to pine, useful properties for the human body and strength associated with the presence of a large concentration of resin in the material, it also differs spruce lining. But it releases sticky drops of resin during the entire period of operation. Such a board is also called a board that cries. In this regard, the price of eurolining from spruce is much lower than for a board from pine.

So, we proceed directly to the installation of eurolining itself. In general, it is no different from installing a conventional lining. The only difference is the quality of the material and the size of the grooves.

How to fix eurolining

• Preparing walls for cladding. First, you need to level the wall. In this case, a crate should be used, which is installed at an angle of ninety degrees to the direction of the lining. The crate is not required if the walls are already fairly even.
• Determining the direction of eurolining. There are several types of installation. So, vertical laying visually increases the height of the ceilings. Horizontal - visually increases the space of the room. But laying at an angle will look stylish and original.
• Choice of mounting method. In total there are several options for attaching eurolining. These are fasteners to the wall itself or to the crate, fastening to special brackets with holes for mounting. The latter method is used if a narrow eurolining is used. To do this, the bracket is nailed to the wall in order to connect it to the groove with the next element.
• If it is necessary to make the mount invisible, then it is necessary to screw the self-tapping screw into the eurolining spike itself. At the same time, the next element closes the head of the self-tapping screw when docking and entering the groove into the groove.
• When the self-tapping screws are attached to the lining itself, then special wooden dowels are used. They allow you to hide the mount and give the lining a solid look.

Preparation for work on the installation of eurolining

• It is necessary to store eurolining before its installation in a special way. It must be in the manufacturer's packaging in a dry and clean room, there should be no sudden temperature changes and direct sunlight is absolutely excluded.
• In order for the material to become accustomed to environment, it is recommended to remove it from the package two days before the start of installation work.
• With the help of a dry or slightly damp cloth, dust and dirt on the material is removed.
• Very important for this stage treat the lining with a special antiseptic solution. It prevents the occurrence of mold, fungi and protects against the appearance of insects. After that, the slats should dry thoroughly.

• It must be taken into account that installation work for sheathing are produced exclusively at an air temperature of at least 5 ° C. Also, the air humidity should not be higher than 60%.
• If there is a desire to cover the material with special decorative varnishes or paint, then the easiest way is to do this before starting installation work. This will allow you to apply a layer of varnish evenly and dry it without smudges. When covering the walls of a bath or sauna, the use of varnish is prohibited. After all, in the process of heating, it will emit harmful fumes into the air.
• The next step is to correctly calculate the amount of material that will be required for sheathing. To do this, both the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls or ceiling, and the thickness of the board are taken into account. We should not forget that the working width of the lining is reduced by ten millimeters due to the fact that the longitudinal spike enters the groove of the next element.

Lathing for installation of eurolining

• In order for the eurolining to serve for a single decade and not lose its properties during operation, it must be fixed exclusively on a flat surface. Therefore, it is often impossible to mount it on bare walls. If the walls are wooden and absolutely smooth, then in this case, installation can be started without surface preparation. If the wall is made of brick, concrete or metal, then you need to start with the arrangement of a wooden crate.

• It is a frame of wooden slats, two or three centimeters thick and attached to the surface. You can attach them not only to the walls, but also to the ceiling and floor. If the slats are attached to the ceiling, then the distance between them should be about 40 cm. And if on the wall, then from 50 to 70 cm. The direction must be chosen so that they are at right angles to the boards. For best results, use a level. In this case, the rails will be installed as evenly as possible. On the material for the crate is also not worth saving. It is important that the slats are straight and without significant defects. Their role is not only to perfectly level the surface, but also to create special ventilation between the wall and the lining.

Ways of fastening eurolining

• Fastening eurolining with self-tapping screws. The lining is attached to the screws on the side where the spike is located. The length of the fasteners is best chosen within 1-1.5 cm. After tightening, the screws should be covered using a dowel. Upon completion of the skin, it is necessary to cut off all protruding elements and carefully sand the entire surface.

• Lining with eurolining using invisible fastening with brackets. The first board of the lining is applied to the right corner and cut to the desired size. After that, it is fixed with the help of special brackets, or as they are also called clamps. They firmly fix the cladding to the crate, while not interfering with the joining of subsequent rails by means of a tenon-groove.

• Invisible fastening with nails. This fastening method is similar to that of stapling. But, in this case, not staples are used, but narrow nails that are galvanized. But the hats should be hammered deep into the material, otherwise they will stick out and interfere with the fastening of the next board.

Do-it-yourself installation of eurolining

• The first board is set as straight as possible in a vertical position in the right corner. In this case, you can not do without a level. This is important because all other boards that are attached to the starting board must be perfectly even.
• Next, the lining is attached by any of the methods described earlier.
• The subsequent board must be inserted with a spike into the groove of the initial one and driven tightly along the board. Next, check the evenness of the vertical, using a level or plumb line. If there are even the slightest inaccuracies, then the board should be installed on a new one. The angle must be strictly 90 degrees.

• The last plank is cut to size and, in order to make the corner more beautiful, it is covered with fittings, in particular, a decorative wooden corner.
• Installation of the ceiling with eurolining is carried out according to a similar principle.

Installation of eurolining video

Eurolining care

• In order for the cladding board not to lose its attractiveness and serve as long as possible without changing its characteristics, it needs proper and systematic care, which is directly related to the processing methods and the purpose of the lining.
• If the room in which the eurolining will be located is excessively humid or prone to significant temperature changes, then the boards themselves may soon change their appearance, crack and deform.
• For protection, various natural impregnations, oils and varnishes can serve. They can also be applied during the operation of the cladding, thereby updating its appearance.
• If the lining is treated with an antiseptic containing boric salt, then it can be sheathed not only in saunas and baths, but also in the external facade of the house. In this case, she will not be afraid of rain, wind or frost.
• To care for the lining, the use of abrasive substances is prohibited. It will be enough to wipe the tree with a damp cloth dipped in soapy water. If it is necessary to eliminate the stain on the board, then the solvent can be used locally. Subsequently, treat the place of cleaning with varnish or oil, depending on what material it was treated with earlier.

As you can see, eurolining is a universal natural material that does not require special care, is relatively inexpensive and fairly easy to install. Reliability, practicality and amazing appearance of eurolining make it a leader among facing materials.

How to fix eurolining to reveal all the beauty of these planks?

The lining of the decade is in demand. This material, preserving the natural pattern, ennobles the room at the same time, retains heat and serves as a high-quality sound insulator. In rooms lined with environmentally friendly materials, the healthy aroma of the forest is preserved for years, and the humidity regime is always within the optimal limits. Wooden lining absorbs moisture in excessively damp rooms and releases it into the air if it is too dry around. The panels are equipped with special locks, so the installation and fastening of the panels is within the power of even a novice master.

Eurolining is a popular material for interior decoration due to its environmental friendliness and ease of installation.

However, those who make the cladding on their own for the first time often wonder how to fix it correctly so as not to spoil the charming appearance of the lining.

There are several ways, and all of them require not experience and special skills, but patience and accuracy.

Fastening with nails

Some experts answer the question of how to fix this lining: with nails or screws. How to do it?

The simplest and at the same time the most barbaric way is to fasten the lining with nails from the “face” of the product. It is possible that sometimes the plan of an architect or designer allows this method, but then the planks are fixed with special finishing nails. They differ from ordinary ones in a tiny oval hat and a small diameter. This is necessary to make the nail invisible against the background of the lined wall. Sometimes (very rarely) finishing nails can have a decorative cap. Regardless of whether the lining is fastened from the outside with ordinary or decorative nails, special care must be taken: the boards can split.

More experienced craftsmen fasten the lining by driving the finishing nails into the groove of the plank. It's hard to do this job without experience.

On 10 square meters approximately 600 nails are required.

The nail must first be carefully inserted into the groove, then driven into the mounting rail, then the caps must be drowned with a puncher so that they do not interfere with further installation.

To fix the lining in this way, you need skill, experience, skill and time. And still there is a risk of damage to the plates.

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Fastening with self-tapping screws

The usual (not eurolining) was often fastened with screws, guided by the following algorithm.

1. A hole for a screw was drilled in each panel.
2. They countersinked a secret hole intended for a hat.
3. The screw was driven into the frame rail to failure with the help of a screwdriver.

The first difficulty was to fit the screw head flush with the lining. The second is at the risk of splitting the plank. The screw was supposed to go into the place intended for him.. Otherwise, it interfered with the attachment of the next element. Today, when eurolining has appeared (it has more grooves and spikes than the old configuration), this method of fastening has been somewhat simplified.

1. Neat holes are drilled in each wooden panel, the depth of which is equal to half the length of the self-tapping screw selected for this purpose. Of course, you can try to screw in a self-tapping screw without a previously prepared hole. Experience shows that the number of damaged (cracked) planks increases dramatically.
2. Using a screwdriver, the self-tapping screw is completely recessed into the wood.
3. Holes are plugged with pins and ground flush.

This method of fastening the lining also leaves the risk of damage to the panels and takes a lot of time. You need to have a lot of experience in order to correctly and accurately drive nails, screws, self-tapping screws into the right place of the lining or eurolining. It also requires some physical strength.

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Fastening eurolining with a stapler and clamps

Fastening the lining with a clamp is the most reliable.

How else can you mount eurolining? Those who fastened eurolining to the wall on their own for the first time often claim that the most convenient way- use of staples and a construction stapler. It is enough to insert the staple into the groove at an angle of 45 ° using a stapler. If the bracket lies correctly, then the planks are connected as usual.

Today, the most practical and reasonable is the method of fastening eurolining with the help of clamps (clamps).

They do it like this:

1. The lining board is installed and leveled.
2. A clamper is put on the bottom of the groove.
3. With the help of nails or staples, the kleimer is attached to the wall or batten.
4. The next board is inserted with a spike into the groove, the operation is repeated. Every 5-8 rows it is recommended to check the compliance of the lining with the chosen direction (vertical, diagonal, horizontal).

Why is it better to fasten eurolining with clasps? Because the advantages of kleimers are obvious:

1. The possibility of cracking the board is excluded.
2. The lining process is accelerated.

During the installation process, a perfectly even wall sheathing is obtained.